Thank you for your videos. I bought two CR10 Max motors for the y axis. Nick parsons has a STL file on printables for the second Y Axis motor mount for his Kobra Max. I think it’s usable.
Yesss!!! This is super cool. Clean build man! I’m running dual Y motors on my Chiron, in series off the same motor driver right now. Try this to potentially eliminate the Y layer shifting. I want to follow in your footsteps and convert my machine too, this is bad ass!
Thanks! Are your motors mounted along the center with the one belt? (like, second motor up front using same belt?) or did you put them side by side and add another belt? I have plenty of stepper driver slots on the Octopus board, I could add another to spread the load for another motor...
Nice upgrade series...that layer shift ... I know that you've done so much already but, I'm pretty convinced that Anycubic realized this issue, hence why they used the dual shaft stepper motor with 2 belts on the Kobra max for the Y Axis afterwards... maybe you could get your hands on 1 of those stepper motors (or the one for the Creality CR M4), 2 GT2 10mm pulleys, a few meters of 9mm belt and 2 idler wheels... I have the Kobra Max and I plan to do Y rails soon... Im not a Voron guy so I plan on just using my Creality sonic pad for the klipper and moonraker and camera input... i may switch the X axis for a stock extrusion for linear rails too... but I don't want the work of maintaining lots of belts and pulleys. Nice results tho.
Nice conversion, I'm working on one as well for my bedslinger machine... just curious - that rattling noise during XZ movements - did you bother finding what's causing it?
Ahh yes, I probably should have added a subtitle that mentioned what that noise was- I figured out that it was the cardboard spool, "rolling" on the PLA spool holder, when the X rail was going downward (-Z)... I want to find a better spool holder, maybe one with bearings, or maybe do the reverse bowden setup and have a spool roller down low, off the machine entirely.
You said you had layer shift in Y. Thats why i dont tune my Chiron anymore. I let it stock with klipper good is. In future i will build a Ratrig with the motor and stuff but this big slinger is not worth the time to upgrade. Except you got 2 and can build an new CoreXY with that. But then its a diffrent printer
@@sn31t33 yes, i agree. i had hopes that this upgrade would have helped with speed, but it cant overcome the mass of the bed, which is the limiting factor of any bed slinger... in the end, i will just have to suffer with slow speeds, but it will be very tune -able with klipper.
Yes the weight (about 4kg) of the Y Bed ist the only real thing that limit this Monster. I peel off the Glas Ultrabase and replaced the Sliders wiith own designed and printed Parts made with PETG. Now its less than 2kg and i noticed a smoother movement with less vibrations. It's not perfect yet because of the thin alu-heatbed there is a strong bending when it is heated up. Thinking about a rigid but lighweight solution so far..
You got some files? Thats the only upgrade thats sounds worthy. The bed is and will be the limiting factor so what the OP did is basically useless without a fast bed
@@sn31t33 yes of course, i will upload the Files tomorrow on printables! Nowadays i have taped the original Ultrabase on the Heatplate.. sadly. But without it, the bend is too mutch until 80°C. But the PETG Carriage is working good so far.
This is the second part... Sorry I did not record any of the actual wiring or programming of the build, my current setup at home makes it rather difficult, as I do not (yet) have a dedicated studio/workshop.. Plus, I am still trying to get used to documenting things with video- for many years I mainly did photography, so planning out the audio and background noises were never really things I had to worry about.
I think the octopus is overkill for a switch wire, you could use an skr mini e3 v3 for this build because you don’t really need that many stepper motor drivers.
Yes, I realized that after I bought it and was beginning my build, but it was mentioned in the build guide I was following, plus it was on sale when I bought it. And- if this project doesn't work out, I can always use it again in a V2.4 build or something along those lines :)
True but if you wanna use deployable clicky, you should go for a 5 driver setup or maybe if he wants dual color also... so he would not need to upgrade he will just add a driver and cfg tuning...
Thank you so much for posting this. I am in the process of building my own Chiron Switchwire and your videos are very helpful.
Thank you for your videos. I bought two CR10 Max motors for the y axis. Nick parsons has a STL file on printables for the second Y Axis motor mount for his Kobra Max. I think it’s usable.
Wouldn't happen to have the link where you found the skirts that fit?
Yesss!!! This is super cool. Clean build man! I’m running dual Y motors on my Chiron, in series off the same motor driver right now. Try this to potentially eliminate the Y layer shifting.
I want to follow in your footsteps and convert my machine too, this is bad ass!
Thanks! Are your motors mounted along the center with the one belt? (like, second motor up front using same belt?) or did you put them side by side and add another belt? I have plenty of stepper driver slots on the Octopus board, I could add another to spread the load for another motor...
@@ratty2austin two motor driving one belt! Printed a mount that clamps around the frame across from the original y motor!
I'm thinking of doing that too, just for better overall performance.... Maybe lol
Nice upgrade series...that layer shift ... I know that you've done so much already but, I'm pretty convinced that Anycubic realized this issue, hence why they used the dual shaft stepper motor with 2 belts on the Kobra max for the Y Axis afterwards... maybe you could get your hands on 1 of those stepper motors (or the one for the Creality CR M4), 2 GT2 10mm pulleys, a few meters of 9mm belt and 2 idler wheels... I have the Kobra Max and I plan to do Y rails soon... Im not a Voron guy so I plan on just using my Creality sonic pad for the klipper and moonraker and camera input... i may switch the X axis for a stock extrusion for linear rails too... but I don't want the work of maintaining lots of belts and pulleys. Nice results tho.
Nice conversion, I'm working on one as well for my bedslinger machine... just curious - that rattling noise during XZ movements - did you bother finding what's causing it?
Ahh yes, I probably should have added a subtitle that mentioned what that noise was- I figured out that it was the cardboard spool, "rolling" on the PLA spool holder, when the X rail was going downward (-Z)... I want to find a better spool holder, maybe one with bearings, or maybe do the reverse bowden setup and have a spool roller down low, off the machine entirely.
@@ratty2austinI went reverse Bowden for mine. Roll sits beside printer... One less mass vibrating around lol
You said you had layer shift in Y. Thats why i dont tune my Chiron anymore. I let it stock with klipper good is. In future i will build a Ratrig with the motor and stuff but this big slinger is not worth the time to upgrade. Except you got 2 and can build an new CoreXY with that. But then its a diffrent printer
@@sn31t33 yes, i agree. i had hopes that this upgrade would have helped with speed, but it cant overcome the mass of the bed, which is the limiting factor of any bed slinger... in the end, i will just have to suffer with slow speeds, but it will be very tune -able with klipper.
ciao e complimenti x il lavoro, sarebbe fantastico un video dettagliato su come installare klipper grazie
Yes the weight (about 4kg) of the Y Bed ist the only real thing that limit this Monster. I peel off the Glas Ultrabase and replaced the Sliders wiith own designed and printed Parts made with PETG. Now its less than 2kg and i noticed a smoother movement with less vibrations. It's not perfect yet because of the thin alu-heatbed there is a strong bending when it is heated up. Thinking about a rigid but lighweight solution so far..
You got some files? Thats the only upgrade thats sounds worthy. The bed is and will be the limiting factor so what the OP did is basically useless without a fast bed
@@sn31t33 yes of course, i will upload the Files tomorrow on printables! Nowadays i have taped the original Ultrabase on the Heatplate.. sadly. But without it, the bend is too mutch until 80°C. But the PETG Carriage is working good so far.
Did i miss the second part? Love ur project! ✌🏼
This is the second part... Sorry I did not record any of the actual wiring or programming of the build, my current setup at home makes it rather difficult, as I do not (yet) have a dedicated studio/workshop.. Plus, I am still trying to get used to documenting things with video- for many years I mainly did photography, so planning out the audio and background noises were never really things I had to worry about.
I think the octopus is overkill for a switch wire, you could use an skr mini e3 v3 for this build because you don’t really need that many stepper motor drivers.
Yes, I realized that after I bought it and was beginning my build, but it was mentioned in the build guide I was following, plus it was on sale when I bought it. And- if this project doesn't work out, I can always use it again in a V2.4 build or something along those lines :)
True but if you wanna use deployable clicky, you should go for a 5 driver setup or maybe if he wants dual color also... so he would not need to upgrade he will just add a driver and cfg tuning...