I tried to find the Strongest Filament Extruder.
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- Опубликовано: 4 июн 2024
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I tested 11 different extruders for 3D printers to find out which is the strongest!
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Chapters
00:00 Introduction
02:10 Test Setup
03:19 Ender-3 Extruder
04:38 Bondtech BMG
05:38 E3D Hemera
06:52 E3D Hemera XS
08:00 Orbiter 2.0
09:25 Mellow Cannon
11:15 Bondtech LGX
12:45 Dropeffect OmniaDrop
13:59 Dyze Xtruder Pro
15:12 Proper Extruder
16:28 OMG V2 Extruder
17:24 Summary
#3Dprinting #StrengthTest #CNCKitchen
DISCLAIMER: Part of this video was sponsored by Squarespace.
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What's your favourite, go-to extruder?
Also: check out our CNC Kitchen products at cnckitchen.store/ or at resellers www.cnckitchen.com/reseller and on AMAZON (EU) geni.us/s8rYtQ
Thanks a lot! Getting an Orbital for my dual drive Prusa-mini project.
I've been doing my own research but it becomes obsolete by the time I come up with a decision.
I'm using a Titan clone for its size and weight and easy fit on an Ender 3. Would be interesting to see how it compares with its extremely small single extrusion "gear".
The one in my Prusa MK3. I am building a a P3 Steel intermittently and is going to start with a "Gregs Wade Extruder", It would have neat to see how "good" it was in the beginning of home 3d printing.
I'm finally upgrading from the stock Ender extruder to a Sherpa Mini.
Im using a Zesty Nimble v1. For the people wo dont know this extruder it is a remotedriven directdrive extruder. i would love to see it in your tests.
Again an awesome video man. But I dont think we need a lot of pushing force...we need to let the hotend flow and avoid over-pressurizing the heatzone.. or we get crappy quality
I really need to integrate that setup onto a running machine to play around with things like this!
Yes, if used in a normal 3D printer capacity (which, granted is a strong focus of this video when it lists and discusses the weight of the print heads), but when used for injection molding-as was the initial purpose for performing these tests-reaching high pressure is the primary concern, not flow rate, consistency in output rate, or weight of the head, as it would not be moving and the quality of the molded part is largely dependent on the mold design, surface finish and level of detail, and achieving a complete fill of the mold cavity.
Also how it handles abrupt and fast retracts of pressure advance.
Interesting idea. After a certain point, it is better to focus on reducing friction in the filament path and having a better heat zone to get higher flow.
@@andreiignat3877 This is definitely a good topic for a video. Ultimately I had to disable pressure advance on both of my Titan geared extruder machines due to gear chatter and failed prints due to sawing through filament. I'm in the market for a new extruder, but ultimate force isn't as important as backlash.
I really enjoyed the video! Very proud that Orbiter V2 won the battle of "force per weight". And among of 11 extruder, 6 of 11 used LDO stepper motor, which a big win for LDO. Very Excited!
Now this is how you do marketing, I have a sudden urge to buy LDO steppers and I don't even have a project for them!
Appreciate it, Jason! A great job as always!
LDO is really stepper ing up! ;)
@@CNCKitchen if you want win force/weight battle try TD-30-40-PRO motor but price t pay is too high.
spoilers! lol happened to see this comment.
Tiny injection molding is right up my alley! I really appreciate this Stefan!
If you haven't already come across it the RUclips channel TheCrafsMan SteadyCraftin has a number of videos that show the use of a manual bench top pellet feeder/injector/mold clamping device using both metal and 3D printed molds that are a pretty good resource and might be of interest to you.
I'm excited, too! Any ideas what to injection mold?
@@CNCKitchenWhen you say tiny, do you have a ballpark as to what do you mean? There might be some uses in electronics mounting brackets or intricate structures. But the only "widely applicable" (and thus good for RUclips views) application that I can think of would maybe be DnD/similar miniatures? I'd be curious to hear if you had anything in mind already or if you were moreso approaching this from the "I wonder if I could" perspective. Good luck on the project either way!
Nice to see this comparison done scientifically, very well done! Thanks for including my beefy design!
The beefiest of the beefy boys! Great work on that unique design!
@@CNCKitchen Thank you!
I believe, your belt design has the most potential of the bunch. It needs more optimization though.
@@besenyeim wear may be an issue though. The hardness of belts vs hardened steel gears is significant, to say the least. Guessing abrasive filaments would eat those belts for breakfast.
@@ivyr336 Most of the abrasives are inside the filament though, not exposed. I don’t see it as being particularly problematic.
Also, one of the good things about belts is that they’re quite cheap, as a consumable component.
Ive been working on a similar idea for a while based on a failed print, which filled my silicone hotend. It created a blob that had a smooth surface finish, 100% infill and sharp features, which lead me to the idea that it was viable. For those saying why, small FDM parts are weak and struggle with small details due to the printing process. While slower than traditional injection moulding there is certainly a place for a small machine like this. Even a 5-10 minute cycle time is still faster than printing and due to the low cost and size many machines could be run at once.
When he mentioned this I thought about the conical bullets I want to print (based off a patent from the 1700's, it was a flintlock that fired 224 times with a single trigger pull, its party piece wasn't a complex mechanism it was that you could stack bullets with basically a flash hole drilled through the middle so they would fire one after another in runaway full auto). I printed one and it came out ok, but if you make smaller than .50 cal (historically it would have been .69 cal or bigger since those were the popular calibers back then), then you end up with pretty tiny projectile. Something like the creatlity belt printer injecting into a line of molds could automate the process (you need 224 of them to load it up, lol, you might even want to fire it once every weekend), so for accuracy you'd either want Resin printer or injection/cast.
Of course casting in lead would be the way it was done previously and how it should be done (also very easy, probably much easier than plastic), however you need to burn more power and if you just want a toy like a glorified Nerf toy that has cool booms and smoke, well plastic should be fine for close range play.
I love the indexed gear force on my LGX, it makes printing more repeatable. In fact, I'd love to see how the LGX lite compares in this testing.
This is an excellent video!
I'm pretty curious to see your small parts injection moulding project 😎
We us Dyze Extruders, Nozzles and Hot-Ends on our Blackbelt Printers and they are super reliable. We are printing often big parts which run 3-5 days in average, use PLA, HT, PETG, Varioshore TPU, TPU, nGen, nGen_Flex, etc. and it never skips a beat. One some Dyze Parts we have over 12000 hours of printing and they still work. Really happy with the performance and after the Test here I see even less reason to try something else in the moment. Loved the Video!
There is also an extruder based on a brushless motor, the filament flows through the centre of the motor, really interesting design. No idea how good it is though.
It would be very cool, if the bigger 3d printing youtubers would give it more publicity!
What’s it called?
Would love to see more extruders tested. Sherpa mini, clockwork 2 and more.
I thought he would have included the clockwork since he has a Voron
@@yvesinformel221 I hoped for the clockwork and sherpa. But I would expect them to perform fairly similar to the orbiter.
@@scruffy3121 orbiter would probably be lighter
Clockwork vs M4 would be cool too
I was pretty surprised that he didn't at least include a classic Wade's just for reference since it was the go-to option for so long.
So happy to see proper printing get a little recognition here. He's been taking on awesome projects for a long time!
It's well deserved and hopefully inspires others!
Totally! Im a big fan of his stuff. Very creative
I was fortunate to spend time with Jon at ERRF last fall, he is a crazy guy, and super smart!
It would also be nice to see this testing done with flexible filament for another comparison point between the various models and design features.
Great point!
That would be really interesting and helpfull. Results would probably differ vastly.
I’m impressed with the biqu h2, very light and like the hemera has the hot end built into the very small stepper motor which I believe a 9:1 gear ratio.
It's 7:1 but yeah, its great
I've been using it for a year and I've not had a single problem. It just works good.
This is a setup I would have liked to see tested. I believe the package comes in at a similar wieght to the orbitor setup so knowing it's pushing force would be interesting.
Good point! An even smaller Hemera-Like extruder.
I would also like to see this setup tested.
Best performance in my tests from years ago was Bondtech QR and Bondtech V2. Planetary steppers with medium diameter gears. Worth a look in the right application. I tested max flows and pressures into a load cell rig in PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPU.
The OMGv2 series extruder gave me an idea. Two completely separate extruders, in series. A big beefy one like the Hemera or Proper at the start, then a bowden tube connecting it to a small lightweight extruder like the Orbiter. The big extruder would provide most of the force, while the small extruder would help with retraction, especially with flexible materials.
Both high torque with low print head weight and good retraction performance. It also spreads out the "grip" on the filament, so any grinding will less likely cause an unrecoverable failure.
Something even smaller and lighter could be designed, as the head extruder would really only need to provide a fraction of a KG of force.
It would be a nightmare to sync them properly. Filament will still slip from time to time.
Where is the Microswiss NG extruder that literally won in the tug of war video you mentioned?
I use the Orbitor v2, really nice compact unit. I converted my FLSun Q5 to Direct Drive so weight was a big factor, glad to hear i made a good choice (not that I was worried 😳)
The spikes are cool. Maybe cutting a groove in a normal extruder wheel would also improve bite force.
Looks to me like they carved up a normal gear.
File or grind a center channel in the extruder gears of the Hemera to match the spikey design of the Dyze Xtruder Pro and retest, as the Hemera with the large motor was a good performer where the filament grip was its weak point that might be easily rectified. It would be interesting to also do the reverse and increase the motor strength on the units that had the motor as the weak point.
Specially the ones that mount normal NEMA 17s, those have quite the potential for some ridiculous long high current steppers running on them, or if you wanna turn the absurdity up a notch, get one with a built-in reduction gearing.
I've been running an OMG v2 for some time now in a Bowden setup. It's been reliable and no issues. Glad to see it did well!
Great to hear some real world experience.
Me to, but as a direct drive.
But I'm not sure mine is the V2 or the older V1 ( it's been a while since i got it )
either way, it works great :)
I bought one also for a bowden setup paired with a dropeffect xg hotend. They are going to go in my Voron 0.2 I'm trying to build.
Some of the 3d printed models and their CNC versions from Mellow;
vz-hextrudort printed and cnc version
sherpa micro printed and cnc version
Would be very cool to see if there's any difference between the printed/home built versions vs the higher end (yet on the cheaper end of the extruders in this test) CNC versions :)
You can also get them with 8t or 10t moons and LDO motors, could be very interesting to see if there's any strenght differences in real life between those.
I don't think there is any difference in push force between printed/cnc, at least to the point where printed one can break. But definitely there may be difference in precision - cnc is more precise, rigid, temperature-stable in hot chamber - cnc can deliver more quality to print, not force. And second thing, what can affect force - you can pump more current in stepper with alu extruder - it helps with motor cooling and there is no chance that extruder can melt and jam. 100C+ motor can survive , but definitely not ABS printed extruder.
@@witalijlewandowski2384 yeah I think we agree :) would be cool to see what it would take to find differences, motor temps etc.
i am REALLY looking forward to your injection molding video!!!!! can you try SLA printed molds with plastics that melt at low temps?
Companies like siriya tech make resins that are high temp and work with 200C+ I believe.
If you are interested in hobby injection molding the RUclips channel TheCrafsMan SteadyCraftin has a number of videos that show the use of a manual bench top pellet feeder/injector/mold clamping device using both metal and 3D printed molds that is a pretty good resource and might be of interest to you.
That's my plan!
@@CNCKitchen yes!
@@CNCKitchen cool!
Awesome video. Maybe needs a DIY version including Clockwork, Sherpa Double Folded Ascender, VZ, etc.
REALLY cool test Stefan! Love the scientific approach here with the load cell! Great work!
Thanks! Appreciate it.
Well, the OMG looks so well created. I love how easy feeding filament through it looks and how inexpensive it actually is. I currently have an all-metal ender extruder and it is actually fantastic from what I can see. Never skips or anything like that and I seem to be able to force quite a lot of filament through at quite the clip, but if I go to replace it because I hit that bottle neck (I've been pushing printing speeds faster and faster so I'm sure that I will hit that eventually) I'll definitely have to refer back to this video...
So glad to finally see an OMG extruder represented! I have had an OMG DM1 for around 8 months now, and its the single best purchase I ever made. With the pancake included motor, it is light AF, doesn't require ANY mounting hardware (it just screws into the hot end like a coupler), and just works phenomenally well. 10/10, absolutely love that thing
The results for the orbiter were really impressive. Would be interesting to see how the cheaper cloned extruders stack up to the originals including the old Titan and Titan clones.
the experiment was nicely setup and as always apprenticed the comparison of date and graphs , thank for share
I have an IDEX with the 3mm filament OmniaDrop (V older) that works great for squishy stuff. glad to see it get some recognition here, and didn't know they have an updated design!
Great video, as always! I'm really looking forward to the extruder based injection molding. Very interesting!
If you are interested in hobby injection molding the RUclips channel TheCrafsMan SteadyCraftin has a number of videos that show the use of a manual bench top pellet feeder/injector/mold clamping device using both metal and 3D printed molds that is a pretty good resource and might be of interest to you.
Printing with a zesty nimble for years 😊
Love the remote direct drive system!
exactly what I was looking for, thank you! When considering an upgrafe a force/price chart would be super useful too and would be great if you could add that 😁
Great video! I run the Dyze on my Voron Switchwire. I find it really good for large nozzles at lower linear speeds.
its nice to have had this come out while I was installing an orbiter clone on my own printer
Very informative, thanks for all your work. I use the Orditer 1.5 on my home made delta trix. It has worked well. I am thinking of moving to the version 2.0.
Super interesting! I was hoping you would also cover the micro-swiss extruder too. I'm interested to pair up the ideal extruder with a 0.8 to 1 mm nozzle, a higher output hot end on my Ender 5 plus to print very large prints (2.5 kg) in a TPU material. Current print is 3.5 days.
Great video, thanks Stefan! And also I'm happy to see Proper Printing compared, he's such a cool guy.
On my SK-Tank I currently use a Bondtech LGX with a Dragon HF hotend and 0.6mm nozzle (can't remember if it's Bondtech CHT or Micro Swiss). So far I'm pretty happy with the LGX, but I do like to experiment when I have time. I spent a few months with the Biqu H2 and that was fun, but the cooling performance in that setup wasn't quite there for higher speed printing :-/
Good video and test as always, Stefan. :) In regards to other extruders, maybe test the Phaetus Apus extruder as well?
Hallo Steffan, ich habe selber viele Extruder ausprobiert. Mellows Cannon ist meiner Meinung nach der beste, aber nicht wegen der maximalen Kraft, sondern wegen der geringsten Flow Schwankung. Ich denke das liegt an der besonderen Art des Getriebes. Dadurch erzeugt er die schönsten Oberflächen entlang der Z Achse. Vielleicht kannst du dazu auch mal ein Test bzw. Vergleichs Video machen.
Gut zu hören. Das sollte ich unbedingt machen.
Sehr interessant! Ich habe jetzt ein OMG V2 für mein bowden Voron 0.2, was ich langsam baue, der Cannon war aber auch sehr sympathisch als upgrade weg. Ich habe ein dropeffect xg hotend gekauft, also flowrate ist nicht meine Priorität, sondern höchstmögliche Qualität und Beschleunigung.
edit: typo
@@CNCKitchen Hey Steffan, danke für dein Antwort. Ich hab dafür auch einen Testaufbau im Kopf, Extruder, Drehgeber und ein Hotend in einer Reihe. Der Extrudermotor wird mit Konstanter Schritte pro Sekunde angesteuert und man misst die Schritte am Drehgeber. Das lässt sich sicher mit dem Plotter von der Arduino IDE Darstellen oder in einen Graph. Vielleich mit verschiedenen Geschwindigkeiten oder ein Linearen anstieg. Verschiedener Last oder unterschiedlicher Temperatur am Hotend bzw. ohne Hotend. Wichtig ist das der Drehgeber Direkt das Filament antreibt, ohne Übersetzung.
Great comparisons, as always. Would've liked to see the Voron Clockwork extruders included.
Excellent work as always, Stefan! ⭐🙂👍
Would love to have seen the vz hextrudort and Sherpa Mini in this test as these are used extensively in the custom/diy printer parts of the community
Another great video - and it's uncannily similar to videos on the PROJECT FARM channel. Same cadence and categorical sorting. That's a compliment!
Ive been wanting to make my own proper extruder for a while. It looks so cool and for my uses it would be plenty good enough
It'd be really cool if you also did a test like this on the most consistent extrusion, checking for patterns, and underextrusion etc.
Super nice to see the Proper Extruder in a match here, just born out of an idea and DIY experimentation. :)
Thanks for this awesome comparison! I wonder how the sherpa mini performance/weight ratio is compared to the orbiter. I am really sad that my good old and still loved titan extruder was not tested too. It would have been really interesting to see how the grandpa holds up against the newbies.
Great video!
Here's some suggested candidates for a follow up video:
The Sherpa mini, micro, and DFA from Annex.
The sharkfin.
The double Sherpa from Meelis, in four and three gear drive versions, advertised to achieve amazing flow figures.
The vz-hextrudort.
The new phaetus apex.
The lgx mini.
There's too many extruders!
The " professional " injection molding machines use a spiral ( reverse drill ) to push molten pellets/filament and hold pressure in the mold. I would recommend looking into some of the " DIY " machines for taking your old filament and making new to you filament as that is closer to an injection part of the plastics manufacturing. This is still great information as it also can be used for design choices for a Voron between the weight classes and how much filament can be pushed and how hard. Thank you for not just the hard work, the excellent graphs showing the information and the important summary that makes it well worth the comparison.
I had hoped to see the latest all-metal hextrudort (if I'm not mistaken it is sold by Mellow) on the list. It claims several improvements over what is otherwise similar to the Orbiter. I'm especially interested whether the angled pattern on the drive wheels makes a difference ...
Great work! Can't wait to see your injection molding video.
I really like how wenn the Orbiter performs! Thank you for the video. I would be interested in more experimental designs like the original 'Nextruder' idea by Prusa with a cycloidal gearbox. I think it is now planned with a planetary gearbox. Of course you tried to find the strongest extruder, but I think the retracting performance (so the accuracy when you extrude 1 mm, retract 1mm and then extrude 2 mm) is also important.
I had a Hemera running on my Ender 3 and was blown away as to how powerful that thing was. There were a couple of times where the filament tangled and it literally took the entire dry box with the spool. I couldn’t even be mad.
Amazing test, but unfortunately the Sherpa Mini is missing. Small motor, but 6,25:1 reduction so still a lot of pushing force, while being really light!
More niche but I would love to see the other Annex extruder, the Ascender (which is the original worm driven extruder that inspired the Cannon)
I'm planning on upgrading my Prusa-mini, using dual drive. Going to mount a mini direct drive, in addition to the boden drive.
This should also work for bigger direct-drive machines.
High Nozzle pressure is really not a good friend of FDM printing. During the definition of my test procedure for hotend testing, I observed that filament will stop printing properly as soon as it enters the pressure creep zone. This behaviour can be observed at all temperature points. Improperly molten material will no be able to retain the shape induced by the nozzle and print path. It will tend to return to its original shape. Have a look to some of my results here: ruclips.net/video/02aufZ1OVvQ/видео.html
Great video as usual by the way, cant wait to see that molding injection project 👍
Get a better hot end so it melts faster?
Would really be interested in seeing a Sherpa Mini in this comparison, but nevertheless, a really interesting video!
Me too beside theses are all "off the shelf" not self printed versions. Perhaps it would be on par with the BMG. Using the same components after all. I currently run a CW2 and planned to change it into Sherpa mini or micro.
Hey Stefan! Great video! I'm not sure if you saw it, but MirageC put out a really good video out about a month ago about Extrusion Quality which seem to be a large potential driver for the elusive "Prusa Issue 602." What MirageC found is that his BMG extruder had some slight wobble in the gears and that was enough to cause inconsistent extrusion that is visible with light sources directly above the print. With all these great extruders that you have, it would be awesome to see if there was a noticable difference between them with their extrusion consistency and compare them under harsh perpendicular lighting.
Hey Stefan! With the constant benchmarking of hotends you're "wasting" quite a large amount of filament, have you thought about an update on the homemade filament extruder series? Going over the options in this day and age, maybe giving an update on the filastruder you have?
I really like the design of the dyze extruder gears. Since they use those spikes to press into the filament I'm guessing they don't need a tension adjustment because it's not depending on tension to drive the filament. It probably bottoms the two sides of the outer edges of the gears against each other and the spikes drive the filament regardless of what filament is in there so there's no need for tension adjustment. Very interesting design that other manufacturers really should adopt. The squeeze style definitely has its drawbacks
Stefan, you make the best, most interesting and most unique 3d printer content on all of the RUclipss.
The most amazing test i saw, watching 3rd time already
Now im usind the revo hemera the bigger one on my cr10 s4 and its just easy too use no problems with tpu etc it just works every time never clogged nozzles or anything
I'd definitely go with fixed width extruder, had problems with the stock ender extruder slipping then I increased the springforce and it didn't slip but with many retractions on the same place it flattened the filament till it wasn't able to fit in the bowdentube. Then I printed some parts and used a second bearing to make it to fixed width and now it doesn't slip and also doesn't dig deeper into the filament when it passes several times. Still the stock gear but defined deformation of the filament I don't know how much force it puts out exactly but it feels like around 5kg when the motor skipps.
I have an Hemera with a volcano hot end on my Sidewinder X1 and a Hemera REVO XS on my TwoTrees SP-5 and both are outstanding.
Wow, impressive test.
Great video as always :-)
Thanks again for sharing your expirence with all of us:-)
Thank you for a great video! I use LGX Lite and like it a lot. I think the way the wheels are aproached from both sides makes them less sensible to missalignment of the wheels, a problem with original BMG and all that use a spring like the Orbiter.
That maybe true, but I'm not sure misalignment is completely eliminated. I recently upgraded to an LGX Lite and immediately noticed clicking of the gears during retractions. Upon further inspection, I discovered there is a small amount of play on ALL the gears, which causes a little backlash and is the source of the noise. Though I wouldn't necessarily say it's a design flaw, more like a design characteristic.
Great video.
Really wish you had included the Sherpa/Sherpa mini.
I share your opinion about the Orbiter.
One of my printers has a Sprite extruder, but is not as good as the Orbiter I have on my other printer.
After testing a lot I prefer the Orbiter. It has the advantage that it is widely supported. In combination with the Hero-Me printhead you get an incredible amount of possible combinations.
Hi Stefan,
great video i really like how the content is presented.
Since i'm up to sth. else i was really interested into maximum force and steps/mm
Thanks a lot! :)
Great job, very thorough
I'm so happy with purchasing The Orbiter 2. I never had any problems and a proper tensioned belt allows for great speeds.
The only two "flaws" I could find are the temperature, which is acceptable, but shouldn't get hotter and the manual feed for TPU. (Any small kink should be removed, because it will get stuck otherwise)
I can't recommend it enough.
Very helpful for anyone shopping for replacements. I am working with the APUS from Phaetus, that would be an interesting test.
Great video, would have loved to see how my og microswiss DD would have done
Thanks for diving into this.
Great review. Was hoping to see the LGX lite included in testing
Two extruder/hotend combos I'd like to see you test. Biqu H2, and the Microswiss NG. Thanks. Love you videos.
You did an excellent test on infills, but I'd like to see an infill type vs surface quality (not just the top surface) at various infill percentages with a default wall thickness.
A large set of data can be extracted from this video Stefan. Like the good movies i will need to watch it again. Congratulations and as always thanks for your time and effort.
I did not have the LDO Orbiter on my buying list. Now it is! Thanks mate! ;)
.... As always: your scientific approach is absolutely insane (just awesome!)
That one you mentioned was intended to replace the creality extruders definitely seems interesting (esp with the price point), since I don't necessarily need strength, but instead look for something that can do the best job at a reasonable price (which I do understand sometimes you have to spend more to get), it seems like a pretty good option
I'm putting out this mini-alert about a wiring problem I discovered on my BIQU Hurakan. The video about it is featured on my RUclips site. Here's the bottom line: BIQU put two ground wires, a frame ground, and a switch / power inlet ground, on the single FG post of the power supply that comes with the Hurakan. It's possible that resonance tuning can work the lower ground wire away from the FG post of the power supply. Having an ungrounded switch / power inlet ground wire loose in that area, where there are a lot of control wires heading to the control broad may be a recipe for disaster. If you have any thoughts on this, please inform your viewers, as some of them might own a Hurakan. Thank you for all the great work you're doing. It's really quite impressive!
Hi Stefan, cool video! I have an ender 5plus but i am still running a boden tube set up. I feel my Extruder is not strong enough. I can simply replace it with some of the mentioned extruders without switching to direct drive right?
Really enjoyed your video as always. I love my OMG v2 but using the aspina pancake it skipped too much for me.. I also really like my OG Microswiss using the creality stock 40 motor. Wanted the cannon but now perhaps the orbitor.
great video, would love to have seen the CW2 version tested
This was an awesome video and test. However, I have to wonder if you had the og bondtech tensioned properly because I have had many clogs on my e3d v6, and when it clogs I definitely end up losing steps on the motor and not grinding the filament. This is with a full size motor driven at 1.1A with a TMC 5150.
This is exciting to see. I’m most interested in the Omniadrop v3 in the any future tests
I'm impressed with all the numbers, but love to see in a real world scenario where quality is affected. Like would it show as under or over extrusion, how consistent is it. Also, as others pointed out, missed out on an LGX lite.
Side note, I do have the LGX, and I mainly like it for being able easily clean the gears from the side with a stiff nylon brush. It has been consistent for my needs, and being able to easily adjust tension for different types and get it consistently for me is a plus. Only downside is the gear to be able to load or unload manually is cumbersome. Felt would have been better placed to the side.
Great video you should make a video testing which filament is easiest to drive with with rig
I am currently using an hemera which only cost me like 70€ and I have to say I am very happy with it. I have printed PC and TPU with it without problems.
Where's the sherpa mini? and the ascender? 2 of the best extruders available rn.
I wish the Sherpa Mini was included in your test. I just put a bondtech RIDGA gear on mine and I'm getting the best quality print surfaces I've ever seen on my Ender 3
The extruder tension can be adjusted on the creality style extruders. The bmg is also printed via sls iirc, not sla.
Yes! I was so happy to finally see a scientific test of the orbiter!
I am *super* interested in your idea about small scale injection molding!
Good thing I'm already subscribed 😀
That's great! I'm also stroked to try it out.
Very cool video! I love the Proper Extruder!
I love this project farm style testing
Wie Immer - Ausgeseichnet Arbeit, Stefan!
Since you included the compact orbiter, Im surprised you did not include Bondtech LGX lite... I know you can`t test them all. But that one is a direct competitor to orbiter