I have been looking to do this Switchwire mod on my Tevo tarantula pro for a while but had the same problem with the frame sections being different sizes. This x and z drive mounts will work perfectly. Great video mate and a very nice Switchwire mod 👍🇦🇺😊
Can you give me an estimate for the cost to do this? I am using 1 of my 2 chirons and have other printers. Your video makes me want to possibly tinker with my chiron im not using. Now that you can buy a sovol s08 for around $600-800 i need to compare prices.
It´s great to upgrade the Chiron to Klipper. Also upgrading the bed is nice. However, I am not sure Switchwire is the best option to go. With a printer this size, it is already limited in accelleration due to the big bed. And you normaly set same accelleration in x and y. So if you convert to klipper, imho using a longer x-axis and a second extruder (or at least keep this option open) would be the right think to do. Of course using belts on z to get rid of z-wobble is an advantage of the switchwire. However, you can use belts without using coreXZ. There is an interesting conversion on an ender3 based on the voron 2.4 z-beltsystem. One downside of such a big printer of course is the time you need to print. You can use bigger nozzles of course. However, you see this in the results. This is one advantage you get if going Idex instead. You could use different nozzle sizes. While no slicer supports this at the moment, you could combine gcode slized with different settings depending on the layer. So for example first 4 layers with 0.4mm (and maybe multicolour with ercf) at 0.2mm layerhight. Rest with a 0.8mm high flow nozzle at 4mm layerhight. Just modify and join the gcodes accordingly. Duplex and mirror mode are not usable with an idex at this size, esp. with bedslingers, as ABL correct the z-height depending on the position of the head. As both heads always have the same z-height, but different positions, they would have contradicting needs for z-correction. So I strictly recommend not using Duplex or mirror mode. However modifying to (I)DEX without support for Duplex and Mirror makes a conversion more easy. You can adjust different z-offsets in software instead doing a manual calibration to get the nozzles to the same hight. If only one head is used and the other parks outside the bed area, both nozzles do not need to be same hight. You might even use totally different printheads. I am also not sure about the linear rails for the bed. Maxbe 12mm hardened steel rods and brass bushings might be a better solution. Cheap linear rails are a problem, as very precise ball bearings are expensive. Also you have to service them regulary (grease them), while self lubricating brass bushings are not only more quie, but also practicly service free.
Very interesting. I have a Amazon return Chiron and once I saw TH3D's video showing all the massive electronic and wiring issues, I re-did the connectors (ferrule), got rid of tinned connectors and the bed wiring (a KNOWN fire issue). I like your linear rail idea but you made it harder on yourself adding spacers to that center structure. Why not just 3D print a part to move up or down the limit switch instead? I replaced the power supply with a Meanwell and I am looking to install a CR-10 carriage and use a Bondtech/Slice Engineering DDX Mosquito setup. I'm going to direct wire everything, that wiring harness thing that came stock is a mess. I'm trying to figure out if it is worth machining a 1/4 aluminum bed to get a nice flat surface. I have a Wham Bam bed system ready to go. (Speaknig of bed, since it's Anycubic quality, I am leaning towards an AC replacement. It's just hard to find a silicone matt with that hole pattern). Very interesting upgrade
I think the (nylon) spacers was an easy fix, since I already had them- also I am hoping that maybe they helped reduce some of the noise from the linear rails to the bed carriage? the 8mm spacers actually were used to recenter the Y belt, since leaving the carriage flat like stock would lift it up the thickness of the rails... And yeah, the stock wiring was bad for sure!
hey austin! im very interested in doing a similar build. im wanting to do the x and y as linear rails and add the stealthburner mod / have it run on klipper. my question is can this be done on the stock board? ive done a klipper build before so overall i can dive further into it. but im just wondering if the stock board is capable of using a stealthburner/klipper setup and still be able to heat the bed
as of the posting of this video, it was still a work in progress- I just finished the electronics and some basic setup with the firmware this last week. It does print now and I will be making a video about that part soon!
Are you using the stock XZ tensioners or custom ones? To my knowledge, after tensioning, the fastening bolts don't have anywhere for the T nuts to grab-onto since the Chiron has 2040 extrusions instead of 4040 extrusions for the base.
The files for the XZ tensioners/motor mounts, are modified so that they are +5mm thick because it's 2020 and not 3030 extrusion (for the upright Z tower) to keep the belt system aligned. As far as where the T nuts go, I'm not sure if that part was modified in the files I downloaded or not, but it does work fine with the 2040 Chiron's extrusions.
thanks for the video mate. If you get around designing the skirts ans covers for the electronics please post it and use the remix so we can make the Voron model. JamieG
Most of them yes, All the pink and black parts shown in this video are Hatchbox ABS printed to the Voron recommended settings. Since the video has been made, I have added parts made in PETG and some in PLA- only the Skirts for the base- (below the heated bed area, with lots of ventilation, so they should be ok)
I have been looking to do this Switchwire mod on my Tevo tarantula pro for a while but had the same problem with the frame sections being different sizes. This x and z drive mounts will work perfectly. Great video mate and a very nice Switchwire mod 👍🇦🇺😊
Awesome job!! Thanks so much for your video. Just got a chiron last week on working on some plans!!
what kay-bak did you use? I'm converting a CR-10 to SW, I got one as per the guide for SW but it's short (13oz)
Can you give me an estimate for the cost to do this? I am using 1 of my 2 chirons and have other printers. Your video makes me want to possibly tinker with my chiron im not using. Now that you can buy a sovol s08 for around $600-800 i need to compare prices.
It´s great to upgrade the Chiron to Klipper. Also upgrading the bed is nice.
However, I am not sure Switchwire is the best option to go.
With a printer this size, it is already limited in accelleration due to the big bed. And you normaly set same accelleration in x and y. So if you convert to klipper, imho using a longer x-axis and a second extruder (or at least keep this option open) would be the right think to do.
Of course using belts on z to get rid of z-wobble is an advantage of the switchwire. However, you can use belts without using coreXZ. There is an interesting conversion on an ender3 based on the voron 2.4 z-beltsystem.
One downside of such a big printer of course is the time you need to print. You can use bigger nozzles of course. However, you see this in the results.
This is one advantage you get if going Idex instead. You could use different nozzle sizes. While no slicer supports this at the moment, you could combine gcode slized with different settings depending on the layer. So for example first 4 layers with 0.4mm (and maybe multicolour with ercf) at 0.2mm layerhight. Rest with a 0.8mm high flow nozzle at 4mm layerhight. Just modify and join the gcodes accordingly.
Duplex and mirror mode are not usable with an idex at this size, esp. with bedslingers, as ABL correct the z-height depending on the position of the head. As both heads always have the same z-height, but different positions, they would have contradicting needs for z-correction. So I strictly recommend not using Duplex or mirror mode.
However modifying to (I)DEX without support for Duplex and Mirror makes a conversion more easy. You can adjust different z-offsets in software instead doing a manual calibration to get the nozzles to the same hight. If only one head is used and the other parks outside the bed area, both nozzles do not need to be same hight. You might even use totally different printheads.
I am also not sure about the linear rails for the bed. Maxbe 12mm hardened steel rods and brass bushings might be a better solution. Cheap linear rails are a problem, as very precise ball bearings are expensive. Also you have to service them regulary (grease them), while self lubricating brass bushings are not only more quie, but also practicly service free.
Very interesting. I have a Amazon return Chiron and once I saw TH3D's video showing all the massive electronic and wiring issues, I re-did the connectors (ferrule), got rid of tinned connectors and the bed wiring (a KNOWN fire issue). I like your linear rail idea but you made it harder on yourself adding spacers to that center structure. Why not just 3D print a part to move up or down the limit switch instead? I replaced the power supply with a Meanwell and I am looking to install a CR-10 carriage and use a Bondtech/Slice Engineering DDX Mosquito setup. I'm going to direct wire everything, that wiring harness thing that came stock is a mess. I'm trying to figure out if it is worth machining a 1/4 aluminum bed to get a nice flat surface. I have a Wham Bam bed system ready to go. (Speaknig of bed, since it's Anycubic quality, I am leaning towards an AC replacement. It's just hard to find a silicone matt with that hole pattern). Very interesting upgrade
I think the (nylon) spacers was an easy fix, since I already had them- also I am hoping that maybe they helped reduce some of the noise from the linear rails to the bed carriage? the 8mm spacers actually were used to recenter the Y belt, since leaving the carriage flat like stock would lift it up the thickness of the rails... And yeah, the stock wiring was bad for sure!
@@ratty2austin and how many watts did the power supply use?
hey austin! im very interested in doing a similar build. im wanting to do the x and y as linear rails and add the stealthburner mod / have it run on klipper. my question is can this be done on the stock board? ive done a klipper build before so overall i can dive further into it. but im just wondering if the stock board is capable of using a stealthburner/klipper setup and still be able to heat the bed
I believe the stock board can run klipper, but I have not tested that, as I wanted a better board with my build...
Very nice to see this build process. i'm having a chiron laying around in pieces and like to do this conversion. did you already have it printing ?
as of the posting of this video, it was still a work in progress- I just finished the electronics and some basic setup with the firmware this last week. It does print now and I will be making a video about that part soon!
Are you using the stock XZ tensioners or custom ones?
To my knowledge, after tensioning, the fastening bolts don't have anywhere for the T nuts to grab-onto since the Chiron has 2040 extrusions instead of 4040 extrusions for the base.
The files for the XZ tensioners/motor mounts, are modified so that they are +5mm thick because it's 2020 and not 3030 extrusion (for the upright Z tower) to keep the belt system aligned. As far as where the T nuts go, I'm not sure if that part was modified in the files I downloaded or not, but it does work fine with the 2040 Chiron's extrusions.
thanks for the video mate. If you get around designing the skirts ans covers for the electronics please post it and use the remix so we can make the Voron model. JamieG
I think a Prusa Pinda probe will also fit in the X carriage, there is an adapter that can be printed for that.
Correct! I did find that adapter in my pile of printed parts, but the superpinda probe was a bit more expensive so I went with the omron generic.
@@ratty2austin Kingroon has their own version of the Pinda probe. you can buy it as a replacement part for $3.00!
Very nicely video!
I may have missed it but did you print the parts in ABS?
Most of them yes, All the pink and black parts shown in this video are Hatchbox ABS printed to the Voron recommended settings. Since the video has been made, I have added parts made in PETG and some in PLA- only the Skirts for the base- (below the heated bed area, with lots of ventilation, so they should be ok)