Nice video! I must ask though. Why do you have a board on your hotend? My printer is a little old school compared to some of todays options. Im using an ender 3v2 with sonic pad. Maybe you could explain the difference between the options provided with this toolhead compared to the basic hotend.
Not sure this particular board will fit your needs unless you install yourself a Stealthburner toolhead. Imagine you have a printer with direct-drive toolhead that has 2 fans(Parts and Hotend), Extruder driver, Nozzle LEDs, Screen, Heater cartridge, Thermisto, ADXL sensor (to tune resonance frequencies), Filament sensor, Autobed leveling probe, in this case how many wires you will have going to your toolhead from the motherboard, around 16-20 I guess. Those toolhead boards allow you to pass only 4 wires (Power +/- and CAN L/H) everything else you connect directly to this toolhead board, so we have less weight and no wire mess but you need motherboard that supports CAN-BUS or you can use U2C module.
Oh thank you! I am currently trying to crimp these small connectors for a switchwire build and this would have been a whole lot easier! Ordering a replacement now. Not sure what I am going to do with the old one but I have two more builds and I sure am glad I saw this!
No, with Enclosed PLA printing it was around 35(C), but I am not using built-in stepper driver, my extruder driven by separate set of wires cus I do not want to relay on driver that is on non cooled board inside of chamber, especially when I print ABS with 110(C) bed temp. I had been thinking about switch over using a board driver but for that I need time and I have more impactful and fun projects in line.
@200Over all RP2040 is a very cool(cold) controller, I have seen some people add cooler to the toolhead to cool the board but I personally think it's easier to pass separate wires and this in case there is no need for extra weight and extra part on the toolhead.
@@hobbyistnotes Sure, to someone smart like you who has done this a lot, keep in mind this is youtube, we are dumb, a guy just asked you Why do you have a board on your hotend?
@@hobbyistnotes I bought two of these for enderwire conversions and I am stuck. I flashed the sb2009 with bootloader using DFU mode. No message saying success just that it flashed it and rebooted. I then made the firmware but I just downloaded that and flashed the board as I couldnt figure out how to get the board id to flash it with DFU. I then ran the query to give me the UUID and it gives an error message. Also power and data light are on, green and red. Red flashes. I have the 120R jumper applied on both the board and the toolhead board. The board Im using is a Manta E3EZ. Not real familiar with canbus nor klipper. This is my first build. The Manta board has a 120R jumper applied as well. I had canbus hooked up when trying to query the UUID. If you could help I would be in your debt!
Does your GitHub repo have the config for the EBB SB2209 (RP2040)? The one I found looks like it is for the older board. I am trying to set this up and I am having trouble with the temperature sensor settings. I have a PT100 instead of a PT1000, but I am hoping that after viewing a correct setting, I can figure out how to set mine. I think I need to use the setting for the MAX31865, but I'm not sure. The example config file on the BTT GitHub repo seems to be configured for the 2-pin PH connector, not the 4-pin PH connector. But the instructions show using the 4-pin PH connector for the PT100.
There are 2 types of PT1000 sensors: one is with 4 wires and another with 2 wires. If you have 2 wires like me you need to crimp them to 2 middle pins and set tiny switches based on how BBT's documentation shows, you also will have to use output of MAX31865 in your config file.
Thanks for the link. It turns out I was just confused about which sensor the hotend I purchased came with. :) Once I plugged into the 2-pin PH connector it worked fine.
@@paulhuckaby Ohh.. you talking about pcb spacer, here: github.com/hartk1213/MISC/blob/6e4f22c85e541eafab4471c52c59f51c7ac6b2b8/PCBs/Stealthburner_Toolhead_PCB/STLs/pcb_spacer.stl
Nice video! I must ask though. Why do you have a board on your hotend? My printer is a little old school compared to some of todays options. Im using an ender 3v2 with sonic pad. Maybe you could explain the difference between the options provided with this toolhead compared to the basic hotend.
Not sure this particular board will fit your needs unless you install yourself a Stealthburner toolhead. Imagine you have a printer with direct-drive toolhead that has 2 fans(Parts and Hotend), Extruder driver, Nozzle LEDs, Screen, Heater cartridge, Thermisto, ADXL sensor (to tune resonance frequencies), Filament sensor, Autobed leveling probe, in this case how many wires you will have going to your toolhead from the motherboard, around 16-20 I guess. Those toolhead boards allow you to pass only 4 wires (Power +/- and CAN L/H) everything else you connect directly to this toolhead board, so we have less weight and no wire mess but you need motherboard that supports CAN-BUS or you can use U2C module.
Oh thank you! I am currently trying to crimp these small connectors for a switchwire build and this would have been a whole lot easier! Ordering a replacement now. Not sure what I am going to do with the old one but I have two more builds and I sure am glad I saw this!
New stuff. Yey!
Nice! Did you have any issue of overheating?
No, with Enclosed PLA printing it was around 35(C), but I am not using built-in stepper driver, my extruder driven by separate set of wires cus I do not want to relay on driver that is on non cooled board inside of chamber, especially when I print ABS with 110(C) bed temp. I had been thinking about switch over using a board driver but for that I need time and I have more impactful and fun projects in line.
@@hobbyistnotes makes a lot of sense to keep the diver out of the chamber. Thanks for sharing!
@200Over all RP2040 is a very cool(cold) controller, I have seen some people add cooler to the toolhead to cool the board but I personally think it's easier to pass separate wires and this in case there is no need for extra weight and extra part on the toolhead.
If you do a software install guide I will give you a cookie.
Software? I mean BTT documentation pdf is pretty straight forward...
@@hobbyistnotes Sure, to someone smart like you who has done this a lot, keep in mind this is youtube, we are dumb, a guy just asked you Why do you have a board on your hotend?
@@Pigeon_FXGood point, I will think about it.
@@hobbyistnotes I bought two of these for enderwire conversions and I am stuck. I flashed the sb2009 with bootloader using DFU mode. No message saying success just that it flashed it and rebooted. I then made the firmware but I just downloaded that and flashed the board as I couldnt figure out how to get the board id to flash it with DFU. I then ran the query to give me the UUID and it gives an error message. Also power and data light are on, green and red. Red flashes. I have the 120R jumper applied on both the board and the toolhead board. The board Im using is a Manta E3EZ. Not real familiar with canbus nor klipper. This is my first build. The Manta board has a 120R jumper applied as well. I had canbus hooked up when trying to query the UUID. If you could help I would be in your debt!
@@2muchscott Hello, you got lucky cus I am currently editing complete Can-Bus setup video for Manta E3EZ it will be released in few days.
You should add adaptive purge to your config!
Yeah you are right, I was looking at this mod for a while now. Probably will try in next video.
Does your GitHub repo have the config for the EBB SB2209 (RP2040)? The one I found looks like it is for the older board. I am trying to set this up and I am having trouble with the temperature sensor settings. I have a PT100 instead of a PT1000, but I am hoping that after viewing a correct setting, I can figure out how to set mine. I think I need to use the setting for the MAX31865, but I'm not sure. The example config file on the BTT GitHub repo seems to be configured for the 2-pin PH connector, not the 4-pin PH connector. But the instructions show using the 4-pin PH connector for the PT100.
Hey here are the configs: github.com/irebane/my-printers-misc/tree/main/Voron%20Trident%2C%20Manta%20M8P%20with%20EBB(RP2040)
There are 2 types of PT1000 sensors: one is with 4 wires and another with 2 wires. If you have 2 wires like me you need to crimp them to 2 middle pins and set tiny switches based on how BBT's documentation shows, you also will have to use output of MAX31865 in your config file.
Thanks for the link. It turns out I was just confused about which sensor the hotend I purchased came with. :) Once I plugged into the 2-pin PH connector it worked fine.
@@davidsherrick8633Very good!
you mentioned putting a link for the bracket to print - what is the link I don't see it in the description
Follow "My Printers configs" link there you will find an STL
@@hobbyistnotes I checked that repo in the link - I only see two umbilical attachment STL's I don't see bracket for the board
@@paulhuckaby Ohh.. you talking about pcb spacer, here: github.com/hartk1213/MISC/blob/6e4f22c85e541eafab4471c52c59f51c7ac6b2b8/PCBs/Stealthburner_Toolhead_PCB/STLs/pcb_spacer.stl
@@hobbyistnotes Yep that is what I was after - Awesome thanks!