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There is a Revo version available on BTT website but you can't install Revo nozzles here as you need custom headblock and other parts.

But its overprice as hell only for revo nozzles?

This version is not clicking?

@@martinhyska1206 Yeah that is what E3D licensing does...

@@martinhyska1206it does but I don't see any issues with that you need some backlash in gears assembly for thermal expansion in case you print enclosed, that clicking actually lowers down significantly if you grease the gears

Check what I say at 8:00 and make sure you use correct values for the board you are using. Is it ever worked for you? if no, try to swap CAN L and H also make sure you have 100 omh Jumper installed. Always comment all lines of code related to uids cus if connection opened it will drop the device from the list.

That is why at the start of the instruction I told that you have to read original documentation at least once, video basically explains the same there is no point to waste time and make video 40 min long.

Hard to tell by the symptoms you describing as you aren't really saying what exact "button presses" it "does". Bumper buttons on those controllers are very gentle you might need to see if those properly soldered to the controller PCB. Sometimes drift of the sticks can just feel like controller scrolling by itself. When I used to repair JoyCons the bumper buttons issue was one of the most braking parts after sticks, each time I open one that is broken I had feeling that those were intentionally designed to be easily broken by kids, I know people who just buy controllers set after set, kids just press buttons too hard...

@@hobbyistnotes I just inserted a sheet of paper through the slot of the ZB button (trigger), and it seemed to be fixed. I went to check the buttons, and as soon as I pressed the bumper, it malfunctioned again. At that moment, it went to the Nintendo home screen, and it was as if the home button was always pressed, and sometimes the A button would also be pressed. All of this happened when I pressed the bumper.

@@peladio Reading your comments I got under the expression you haven't really checked what is actually wrong inside of the controller. You need to take it apart... who knows what's broke, based on symptoms something could fall off and now just shorting random stuff on the motherboard.

@@hobbyistnotes yeah, I’m planning to open it today. I’ll let you know. Thanks

@@hobbyistnotes the R button felt out of the controller. So that’s the problem

Glad it worked out 💪 happy 3D printing!

knomiv2

I am new to this. Must i create a new project in platform io? The firmware file wont open, if so i need to select a board

There are alot of boards to choose from in esp32-s3

@@rudigeyser2656 Just follow the video instruction. Also before even starting you must read an original documentation at least one time: bttwiki.com/KNOMI.html

@@rudigeyser2656 U don't have to pick anything in platform io as it will automatically configure environment based on knomi version you have picked at the bottom of visual studio 4:24 time

You are correct even usb-c can do more in this case we don’t really care about usb voltage as board powered by 24v already via dedicated connector and stepped down to power the controller so we only needed D+\- signals.

This is very nice cus I have very strong feeling that Panda-Touch was deeply "inspired" by xtouch project.

Isn't there a 3.5inch

You and me both!

Glad you like it.

I think yes. You can check in My Instagram I have installed regular V6 on it as a test with BTT H2 Heat Break which I assume Generic between all H2 series other than Revo.

@@hobbyistnotes Sorry, I am not familiar with the literature. What does V6 refer to? I am actually looking for cheaper replacements for a hotend for my BIQU H2 V2S Extruder. Thank you.

@@UzunKamis When people say V6 we refer to original E3D V6 design specs, there are tons of cheap clones out there of this hotend. In order to install different heat block you will need to get BIQU H2 Heat Break: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806557346784.html that will allow you to install E3D V6 compatible heat blocks and nozzles.

@@hobbyistnotes Thank you very much for the information. Best regards.

Not sure about 10$ but it's hard to disagree. I think it's possible to make build with those to look and function properly but it will require extra work when for 35$ id expect flawless bolt on product.

Sometimes companies just make products that are far from reality of a consumer... Product has an amazing quality and the price could be fully justified if that be flawless well designed/engineered part.

I think most disappointing part is how these aren't even tall enough to be straight in to the extrusions....

Short answer No, I have not. But I personally have ton of unused filament that finally found use in this project. Worth mentioning that products like this doesn't exists outside of 3D printing - it has grind that holds boxes tight and even if you take one out from the middle the rest will stay on place and wont slide around. Also don't forget about fully customizable sizes and boxes even can be adjusted for specific tools. Project was done about a year ago and I have spent 3-4 spools and you can get spool of PLA now for 10-15$ + electricity I think it puts us under 100$

Works with any Klipper 3d printer. Sovol SV08 runs on Klipper.

@@hobbyistnotesis it possible to install on head tool?

@@shahram677 There is no STL provided by manufacturer for stock SV08 toolhead if you find or make one you can fit it.

Thank you 🙏

This one: www.printables.com/model/809509-filtervzero-active-carbon-filter-for-voron-v0

Thanks!

Вы правы. Плата отлично работает и в других принтерах просто изначально целевая аудитория была владельцы Voron 0

@@hobbyistnotes думаю пойдет мне на эксперименты хорошо, уже заказал, правда сколько ехать будет еще. а то я все еще на марлине, в все вокруг массово клиппер хвалят, пора и мне перебраться. а так я и к ворону присматривался, что бы собрать, но все же взял старенький но актуальный гиперкуб

@@romanv951 С текущими алгоритмами и клипером можно заставить любой принтер печать хорошо если есть руки, напильник и желание. На сегодняшний день клипер с Mainsail стал очень хорош и учитывая растущее комьюнити он будет становиться еще лучше.

Thank you!

Thank you 🙏

You say add Jarvis 🤖?

@@hobbyistnotes yes

You just hair to late with this comment as I have successfully assembled second plate with H2 V2S Lite but with smaller heat block to test theory of smaller heat block being better than the stock one in terms of extruder leaking. I wish I have filmed assembly process and hope to spend more time for Part 2 soon.

For me sum of all containers turned out to be very close to be edge to edge of each drawer. I only have around ~25mm left on the right side of the drawer which turned out to be a perfect spot and size for my long screwdrivers.

Check here: github.com/bigtreetech/KNOMI/tree/master/KNOMI2/STL

@@acozad1 same process just pick knomi2 in ide device list.

There is nothing in title says we will install klipper, it clearly says "in Ender 3 with Klipper"

Thank you, there is so much more to improve... I wish I had 30h in my day.

That sucks, huge thanks for sharing your story. I know in some countries Orange Pi's are quite popular due to cheap price, didn't really expected that it would have such issues. Btw my initial guess was that CB2 is made based on Orange Pi as they have very similar specs, have you tried just flashing the CB2 image over there?

What exactly you mean "won’t let it go" ?

I am not fully sure what exactly you mean, if you interested in running RPI via UART you better watch the video guide by NERO 3D the link is in description.

If you in US it's very easy pick: Bambulabs P1S with AMS so far there is nothing better for starter and it worth every penny. In our print farm we have 12 of those and they work 24x7 with minimal amount of issues.

I have used H and everyone use H in enderwire kits.

Before I answer this comment, it's worth mentioning I haven't been paid by the company: - The thermistor is attached with a screw, but the heater cartridge attachment is still a joke. - By the feel, screws look like aluminum, so I can see how they easily break, but I personally haven't broken one yet, so not much to say here. - If you've ever assembled an extruder or gear assembly, you know we want little backlash between the gears to handle thermal expansion. I've checked two of those extruders, and they both have normal backlash. The reason why you hear clicking compared to other multi-gear extruders is usually due to one or more plastic gears that silence the whole assembly. You can solve the clicking by adding a little grease between the gears, which actually makes the extruder much quieter. I've done it myself; no explanation why BUQI hasn't applied it from the factory. - A leaking extruder is a very common issue with high-flow setups, and the only way to use it is to print very fast or at lower temps than usual. I think overall it can be mitigated a bit by using a lower-power heater cartridge; the 70-watt cartridge definitely contributes, but using a lower-power cartridge will drop flow rate. I have a similar issue with my high-flow Dragon; even Bambu has it. For instance, try and print small text with Bambu.

@@hobbyistnotes I think the gear backlash is excessive, common complaint. Makes it difficult to dial in retraction. My extruder is over 6 months old so perhaps they've improved it.

@@gptech2444 May be but on 2 of units I have it's the same as I would set for my Voron CW2 and I don't have problems with retractions there at all I think problems with retractions related to hotend, I am going to have some experiments and run it with other headblock when it will come from China and we will see. Hope I won't forget to post it ether here or make a short about it.

@@hobbyistnotes Look forward to the update.

@@gptech2444 The main reason why I think it's hotend is that lately I was playing a lot with high flow hotends and those I got are all leaky. It's very frustrating but when you really go fast it's not a huge problem. Bambu printers actually have leaky hotends too (I have 4 bambulabs P1S printers) and if you print something slow or lets say something like tiny text it's hard sometimes to clean those strings. With Bambulabs tho guys figured perfect balance between flow of the hotend, speed and power of the heater cartridge, assembly is very well tuned. Over all H2V2S Lite feels like guys rushed and haven't finished few things and what is most frustrating those are very simple things to tune.

Tricky request because there is no way to satisfy every printer and every motherboard as each of them have own pin-out. If you aren't sure how to wire this toolhead to existing printer just wire it exactly the same as "your" existing setup.

okay, thanks!

Also, don't know if you had a clicking problem on retraction on your h2, but for me the solution was to change my linear advance since it was too high, hope this helps!

When you flash original firmware from BTT GitHub repo does your device works?

@@hobbyistnotes Yes, if I flash the firmware from github via the web interface, everything works! but as soon as I build it myself without changing the source data, nothing works through Vs code

@@borys9549 I have feeling you forgot to pick proper KNOMI version in your editor.

Version v2

@@borys9549 Not even sure how to help you. What OS you use? Have you tried my firmware?

Yeah, I wish they would send me Revo version as I have ton of revo nozzles and even a HF one. I assume Revo version is more expensive due to E3D license. To be fair it's still a very nice extruder and I will make some modifications to hotend so it will be perfect assembly. May be will make YT short about it.

Glad it was helpful!

I don't use stacked boxes too much only on rarely used tools or if I have spare tools to store. So far since video was made it wasn't an issue for me at all.

I am not confident but those looks like JST SH connector to me, not sure about the size. I personally would try 1.0mm size, but it's just a guess.

It is and flow gains are smaller than I expected.

@@hobbyistnotes 😢