Видео

Pretty sure it can be set the same way.

@hobbyistnotes because i don't have a UTC board after seeing your video connecting ebb36 via usb to rpi i immediately wanted to try it

Incidentally, the printer that I want to install ebb 2209 is ender sw like you, I have 2 but 1 is still using the stock board v4.2.2 and the other is using skr E3v3. If I use the stock board, can the ebb work well via the usb mod?

@@madorax251 It doesn't really matters what control board you have as you will connect toolhead board to the RPI via USB. Keep in mind that I only tried EBB36 with this mod and have no idea how stable SB2209 will be. If you care about the price I'd recommend to buy EBB36 as it's twice as cheap and for sure was tested in several of my printers. But if price doesn't matter and you want SB2209 like setup there is already a USB version of same board made by BTT may be it make sense to take a look at ready to go solution?

Mostly to simplify toolhead wiring, you need only 4 wires to control all elements of the toolhead.

But it doesn't use vanilla Klipper like Eddy.

@Nuttavoot 🤷‍♂️ good luck getting the btt eddy to work

That is what original BTT macro is doing as well but that this is not enough.

Could you link to that? Would love to test it out, i really want my printer to ignore first probe

@@Ravenkeeper-c3z Check my github(link is in description), I have posted all related files in EnderWire folder. You can change amount of probes by changing variable_homing_samples variable. Here is file you want: github.com/irebane/my-printers-misc/blob/main/EnderWire/btt-eddy.cfg

I have very detailed video on my channel about Can setup

Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/GfUMAPoJlR4/видео.html

Isn't there a manual available for getting to a mainline klipper with SV08? github.com/Rappetor/Sovol-SV08-Mainline

@hobbyistnotes some say the installation brick there printer

@@3D_Printing Good to know, I didn't knew that. Personally I still would take a risk.

@@hobbyistnotes im on mainline. Took about an hour to do.

I find USB mod more stable than CAN but there is a downside as well to this setup as you can kill your RPI if something goes wrong with power wires in umbilical cable, let's say 24v will short on USB signal wires. I think one of the main advantages is that you don't really need canbus supported motherboard to run EBB in USB mode like in my case.

Thanks, you too!

Thank you for sharing your experience it was very interesting to me how many people really use those and how well this probe holds up over time considering the requirement of it being mounted ~2mm from the nozzle height.

@@hobbyistnotes on my Voron trident that mostly prints ABS en ASA the eddy housing melted a bit, deformed and made the coil/pcb angle not right anymore. The suggestion from BTT was mostly not to heat the bed over 60C and keep the doors open....

@@AnandNL What a joke solution to be honest...

@@hobbyistnotes the max temp of the eddy is 90 within the setup and have killed prints for me. i have raised it to 110C

I think you can get same quality with same speeds on stock ender 3, hotend performance might be a problem but other than that kinematics is fine. This video was made 2 years ago and I don't think it's fair to compare results presented in this video to what we get from new printers. In last 2 years a lot has happened in 3d printing space also I personally gained a lot of knowledge applying which I can probably make it to print x2 faster of this video with low quality drop comparing to what I got here. Initial goal with this build was to have fun with Core XZ kinematics and make something that can print consistently faster than Stock Ender3 with same quality. I have been using this printer for a long time since mod and the only thing broke was probe wire in cable chain which initially wasn't rated for such abuse.

Thanks!

Unfortunately I didn’t had an opportunity to use it much with different setups other than one you see in the video. I feel like it is much cheaper to use DIY system for tool changers as you will have to change mechanics of HC2 latch in order to make it work as it has very strong grip and it takes some force to put it in and take out. Also you want your tool heads always be powered which is not possible here without modding it, imagine heating your nozzle each time you changed the tool during the print.

I ran 50w 24v heater for a while with this board without any issues.

I have installed M6 threaded heatblock on it but it's extra expense when in reality they could just do it themselves with exactly the same self cost.

Thank you, here it is: www.printables.com/model/1020086-chaoticlab-cnc-door-mounting-kit-2020-extrusion-sp

There is a truth in your perspective especially when we talk about fast printing. But by itself Stealthburner is very heavy toolhead anyway and fortunately world is not only about fast printing and total optimization.

It was installed there after a lot of testing. Main goal was to battle Z-Axis thermal expansion.

Glad you finally got it printing. This build is special for me it's vbeen 2 years since I have done it and so far I had only one problem: probe wire got shredded in cable chain but it was never rated for it so kind of expected. It's one of the most consistent printers I have and at some point I even started the print farm and it was printing 24x7. A lot of people were commenting: "this build/kinematics is stupid". Ain't stupid if it works and works very well. I am working on the video upgrading it and hope those changes will make it even better.

@@hobbyistnotes I'm now printing PETG parts to mount the enclosure. I have the rear panels in place now, next will be the top, then the front and doors. I also have a RPi camera waiting in the wings to be mounted as well as some internal lighting. I'm currently using the original Ender 3 LCD, but might replace that with a 3.5" or 4.8" Rpi touch screen later to run Klipper screen. While the Enderwire looks promising, I have a feeling there will be a Prusa Core One in my future.

​@@KennethScharf Sounds like a lot of fun. I have decided not to use mine enclosed. It was a bit disappointing to see the size of a print bed (220 for Y-axis) on Prusa Core One especially considering the price of the machine.

@@hobbyistnotes Core One is still a larger print area than the M4S (with exact same bed), and is a bit larger than my Ender3's. It's also got a much smaller footprint and I don't have that much room in my office area. I'll probably be leaving the doors open on my Enderwire much of the time to print PLA , PETG, and TPU. I do want to have the option to print ABS. Anyway I got the enclosure panels cheap.

@@KennethScharf Any reason why you want Core One over Bambu + AMS + ~150 - 400$ ?

This is debatable and requires further research. Your printer is already functioning perfectly fine; pursuing perfection can sometimes feel like chasing a unicorn. It might not be worth the effort unless you have unlimited resources and find the process infinitely enjoyable.

Thanks for the recommendation, I'll look into those. In my latest Voron 0 I have used Dragon not sure it will have enough cooling capacity.

@@hobbyistnotes BB is definitely better thatn SB... I have my 2.4 with SB and Switchwire with DB.. DB is much better. I think with the speeds you are aiming for its just XOL with CPAP

@@Chaosek I actually got feeling I will have to try all sorts of tool heads to find THE ONE.

Few others you could look into if you're going that route would be reaper, mantis, and I think there's a modified mantis out as well

Heard that several times from other Trident owners but it never happened to me. So far works, when it cracks I will replace it for sure. What is the actual mod you referring to?

no, it is not more resistant

I do not have any issues printing ABS in my garage. PETG is alright for open printers and I even tested it myself few years ago, BUT for enclosed printers with internal temp around 45(C) PETG stretches and eventually snaps. This is well known fact and was tested by hundreds of users in Voron community.

@@hobbyistnotes In my personal experience, I had a hypercube and a voron which produced ABS parts, I felt like these parts became more brittle in ABS over time, they degraded and mixed,After a friend's recommendation, I printed all the parts in PETG and now it's been two years since I needed to reprint any part from my printer because it broke.

@@neto_FPS In my personal experience, I had a hypercube and a voron which produced ABS parts, I felt like these parts became more brittle in ABS over time, they degraded and mixed, After a friend's recommendation, I printed all the parts in PETG and now it's been two years since I needed to reprint any part from my printer because it

@@Sandmann_21What PETG you have been using?

Check Manta series boards.

Glad it was helpful!

Привет. Смотря какой билд. Тут 5 независимых драйверов и можно контролировать 5 моторов + к последнему драйверу можно подключить 6й мотор что бы он работал с 5тым в синхроне. Можно так-же перейти на CAN или USB плату для печатающей головы и тогда все 5 драйверов использовать для кинематики.

Nope, but I have played it a little. Do you like POE2?

No

There is a Revo version available on BTT website but you can't install Revo nozzles here as you need custom headblock and other parts.

But its overprice as hell only for revo nozzles?

This version is not clicking?

@@martinhyska1206 Yeah that is what E3D licensing does...

@@martinhyska1206it does but I don't see any issues with that you need some backlash in gears assembly for thermal expansion in case you print enclosed, that clicking actually lowers down significantly if you grease the gears

Check what I say at 8:00 and make sure you use correct values for the board you are using. Is it ever worked for you? if no, try to swap CAN L and H also make sure you have 100 omh Jumper installed. Always comment all lines of code related to uids cus if connection opened it will drop the device from the list.

That is why at the start of the instruction I told that you have to read original documentation at least once, video basically explains the same there is no point to waste time and make video 40 min long.

Hard to tell by the symptoms you describing as you aren't really saying what exact "button presses" it "does". Bumper buttons on those controllers are very gentle you might need to see if those properly soldered to the controller PCB. Sometimes drift of the sticks can just feel like controller scrolling by itself. When I used to repair JoyCons the bumper buttons issue was one of the most braking parts after sticks, each time I open one that is broken I had feeling that those were intentionally designed to be easily broken by kids, I know people who just buy controllers set after set, kids just press buttons too hard...

@@hobbyistnotes I just inserted a sheet of paper through the slot of the ZB button (trigger), and it seemed to be fixed. I went to check the buttons, and as soon as I pressed the bumper, it malfunctioned again. At that moment, it went to the Nintendo home screen, and it was as if the home button was always pressed, and sometimes the A button would also be pressed. All of this happened when I pressed the bumper.

@@peladio Reading your comments I got under the expression you haven't really checked what is actually wrong inside of the controller. You need to take it apart... who knows what's broke, based on symptoms something could fall off and now just shorting random stuff on the motherboard.

@@hobbyistnotes yeah, I’m planning to open it today. I’ll let you know. Thanks

@@hobbyistnotes the R button felt out of the controller. So that’s the problem

Glad it worked out 💪 happy 3D printing!

knomiv2

I am new to this. Must i create a new project in platform io? The firmware file wont open, if so i need to select a board

There are alot of boards to choose from in esp32-s3

@@rudigeyser2656 Just follow the video instruction. Also before even starting you must read an original documentation at least one time: bttwiki.com/KNOMI.html

@@rudigeyser2656 U don't have to pick anything in platform io as it will automatically configure environment based on knomi version you have picked at the bottom of visual studio 4:24 time

You are correct even usb-c can do more in this case we don’t really care about usb voltage as board powered by 24v already via dedicated connector and stepped down to power the controller so we only needed D+\- signals.

This is very nice cus I have very strong feeling that Panda-Touch was deeply "inspired" by xtouch project.

Isn't there a 3.5inch

You and me both!

Glad you like it.

I think yes. You can check in My Instagram I have installed regular V6 on it as a test with BTT H2 Heat Break which I assume Generic between all H2 series other than Revo.

@@hobbyistnotes Sorry, I am not familiar with the literature. What does V6 refer to? I am actually looking for cheaper replacements for a hotend for my BIQU H2 V2S Extruder. Thank you.

@@UzunKamis When people say V6 we refer to original E3D V6 design specs, there are tons of cheap clones out there of this hotend. In order to install different heat block you will need to get BIQU H2 Heat Break: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806557346784.html that will allow you to install E3D V6 compatible heat blocks and nozzles.

@@hobbyistnotes Thank you very much for the information. Best regards.

Not sure about 10$ but it's hard to disagree. I think it's possible to make build with those to look and function properly but it will require extra work when for 35$ id expect flawless bolt on product.

Sometimes companies just make products that are far from reality of a consumer... Product has an amazing quality and the price could be fully justified if that be flawless well designed/engineered part.

I think most disappointing part is how these aren't even tall enough to be straight in to the extrusions....

Short answer No, I have not. But I personally have ton of unused filament that finally found use in this project. Worth mentioning that products like this doesn't exists outside of 3D printing - it has grind that holds boxes tight and even if you take one out from the middle the rest will stay on place and wont slide around. Also don't forget about fully customizable sizes and boxes even can be adjusted for specific tools. Project was done about a year ago and I have spent 3-4 spools and you can get spool of PLA now for 10-15$ + electricity I think it puts us under 100$