I was able to install regular V6 heatblock and here are the retraction tests without part cooling fan: instagram.com/p/C9vU3FBytrJ/ much better than stock, keep in mind you will loose flow rate.
I think yes. You can check in My Instagram I have installed regular V6 on it as a test with BTT H2 Heat Break which I assume Generic between all H2 series other than Revo.
@@hobbyistnotes Sorry, I am not familiar with the literature. What does V6 refer to? I am actually looking for cheaper replacements for a hotend for my BIQU H2 V2S Extruder. Thank you.
@@UzunKamis When people say V6 we refer to original E3D V6 design specs, there are tons of cheap clones out there of this hotend. In order to install different heat block you will need to get BIQU H2 Heat Break: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806557346784.html that will allow you to install E3D V6 compatible heat blocks and nozzles.
Yeah, I wish they would send me Revo version as I have ton of revo nozzles and even a HF one. I assume Revo version is more expensive due to E3D license. To be fair it's still a very nice extruder and I will make some modifications to hotend so it will be perfect assembly. May be will make YT short about it.
@@martinhyska1206it does but I don't see any issues with that you need some backlash in gears assembly for thermal expansion in case you print enclosed, that clicking actually lowers down significantly if you grease the gears
Tricky request because there is no way to satisfy every printer and every motherboard as each of them have own pin-out. If you aren't sure how to wire this toolhead to existing printer just wire it exactly the same as "your" existing setup.
Also, don't know if you had a clicking problem on retraction on your h2, but for me the solution was to change my linear advance since it was too high, hope this helps!
The supplied gold screws are very weak and break easily. As if they're made from cheese. The extruders gears click all the time from too much backlash. And the hotend is a joke, filament leaks out, and the idea of wrapping the temp sensor with tape is also stupid.
Before I answer this comment, it's worth mentioning I haven't been paid by the company: - The thermistor is attached with a screw, but the heater cartridge attachment is still a joke. - By the feel, screws look like aluminum, so I can see how they easily break, but I personally haven't broken one yet, so not much to say here. - If you've ever assembled an extruder or gear assembly, you know we want little backlash between the gears to handle thermal expansion. I've checked two of those extruders, and they both have normal backlash. The reason why you hear clicking compared to other multi-gear extruders is usually due to one or more plastic gears that silence the whole assembly. You can solve the clicking by adding a little grease between the gears, which actually makes the extruder much quieter. I've done it myself; no explanation why BUQI hasn't applied it from the factory. - A leaking extruder is a very common issue with high-flow setups, and the only way to use it is to print very fast or at lower temps than usual. I think overall it can be mitigated a bit by using a lower-power heater cartridge; the 70-watt cartridge definitely contributes, but using a lower-power cartridge will drop flow rate. I have a similar issue with my high-flow Dragon; even Bambu has it. For instance, try and print small text with Bambu.
@@hobbyistnotes I think the gear backlash is excessive, common complaint. Makes it difficult to dial in retraction. My extruder is over 6 months old so perhaps they've improved it.
@@gptech2444 May be but on 2 of units I have it's the same as I would set for my Voron CW2 and I don't have problems with retractions there at all I think problems with retractions related to hotend, I am going to have some experiments and run it with other headblock when it will come from China and we will see. Hope I won't forget to post it ether here or make a short about it.
@@gptech2444 The main reason why I think it's hotend is that lately I was playing a lot with high flow hotends and those I got are all leaky. It's very frustrating but when you really go fast it's not a huge problem. Bambu printers actually have leaky hotends too (I have 4 bambulabs P1S printers) and if you print something slow or lets say something like tiny text it's hard sometimes to clean those strings. With Bambulabs tho guys figured perfect balance between flow of the hotend, speed and power of the heater cartridge, assembly is very well tuned. Over all H2V2S Lite feels like guys rushed and haven't finished few things and what is most frustrating those are very simple things to tune.
I was able to install regular V6 heatblock and here are the retraction tests without part cooling fan: instagram.com/p/C9vU3FBytrJ/ much better than stock, keep in mind you will loose flow rate.
Glad I watched this, those shortcomings are a deal breaker for me. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Are the hot ends of *BIQU H2 V2S* and *BIQU H2 V2S Lite* interchangeble?
I think yes. You can check in My Instagram I have installed regular V6 on it as a test with BTT H2 Heat Break which I assume Generic between all H2 series other than Revo.
@@hobbyistnotes Sorry, I am not familiar with the literature. What does V6 refer to? I am actually looking for cheaper replacements for a hotend for my BIQU H2 V2S Extruder. Thank you.
@@UzunKamis When people say V6 we refer to original E3D V6 design specs, there are tons of cheap clones out there of this hotend. In order to install different heat block you will need to get BIQU H2 Heat Break: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806557346784.html that will allow you to install E3D V6 compatible heat blocks and nozzles.
@@hobbyistnotes Thank you very much for the information. Best regards.
Have you seen the revo version of the lite it’s looks amazing but it’s 200$+
Yeah, I wish they would send me Revo version as I have ton of revo nozzles and even a HF one. I assume Revo version is more expensive due to E3D license. To be fair it's still a very nice extruder and I will make some modifications to hotend so it will be perfect assembly. May be will make YT short about it.
Can add revo nozzle to that?
There is a Revo version available on BTT website but you can't install Revo nozzles here as you need custom headblock and other parts.
But its overprice as hell only for revo nozzles?
This version is not clicking?
@@martinhyska1206 Yeah that is what E3D licensing does...
@@martinhyska1206it does but I don't see any issues with that you need some backlash in gears assembly for thermal expansion in case you print enclosed, that clicking actually lowers down significantly if you grease the gears
Could you do a more in depth wiring video?
Tricky request because there is no way to satisfy every printer and every motherboard as each of them have own pin-out. If you aren't sure how to wire this toolhead to existing printer just wire it exactly the same as "your" existing setup.
okay, thanks!
Also, don't know if you had a clicking problem on retraction on your h2, but for me the solution was to change my linear advance since it was too high, hope this helps!
The supplied gold screws are very weak and break easily. As if they're made from cheese.
The extruders gears click all the time from too much backlash.
And the hotend is a joke, filament leaks out, and the idea of wrapping the temp sensor with tape is also stupid.
Before I answer this comment, it's worth mentioning I haven't been paid by the company:
- The thermistor is attached with a screw, but the heater cartridge attachment is still a joke.
- By the feel, screws look like aluminum, so I can see how they easily break, but I personally haven't broken one yet, so not much to say here.
- If you've ever assembled an extruder or gear assembly, you know we want little backlash between the gears to handle thermal expansion. I've checked two of those extruders, and they both have normal backlash. The reason why you hear clicking compared to other multi-gear extruders is usually due to one or more plastic gears that silence the whole assembly. You can solve the clicking by adding a little grease between the gears, which actually makes the extruder much quieter. I've done it myself; no explanation why BUQI hasn't applied it from the factory.
- A leaking extruder is a very common issue with high-flow setups, and the only way to use it is to print very fast or at lower temps than usual. I think overall it can be mitigated a bit by using a lower-power heater cartridge; the 70-watt cartridge definitely contributes, but using a lower-power cartridge will drop flow rate. I have a similar issue with my high-flow Dragon; even Bambu has it. For instance, try and print small text with Bambu.
@@hobbyistnotes I think the gear backlash is excessive, common complaint. Makes it difficult to dial in retraction. My extruder is over 6 months old so perhaps they've improved it.
@@gptech2444 May be but on 2 of units I have it's the same as I would set for my Voron CW2 and I don't have problems with retractions there at all I think problems with retractions related to hotend, I am going to have some experiments and run it with other headblock when it will come from China and we will see. Hope I won't forget to post it ether here or make a short about it.
@@hobbyistnotes Look forward to the update.
@@gptech2444 The main reason why I think it's hotend is that lately I was playing a lot with high flow hotends and those I got are all leaky. It's very frustrating but when you really go fast it's not a huge problem. Bambu printers actually have leaky hotends too (I have 4 bambulabs P1S printers) and if you print something slow or lets say something like tiny text it's hard sometimes to clean those strings. With Bambulabs tho guys figured perfect balance between flow of the hotend, speed and power of the heater cartridge, assembly is very well tuned. Over all H2V2S Lite feels like guys rushed and haven't finished few things and what is most frustrating those are very simple things to tune.
No M6 heatblocks? Screw this with a broomstick.
I have installed M6 threaded heatblock on it but it's extra expense when in reality they could just do it themselves with exactly the same self cost.