Had the 2209 working for less than 5 hours before it died on me. Mine came with pre-crimped wires you have to solder onto your existing wire to make those pin connections. I think using these small pin connections was a poor choice. For me, I'm going back to the Mellow SB2040.
@@IsiksTech TapGap does not happen with the original mount, so yes, this gap is caused by Tap and this is confirmed, so expect an update. In CAD if you align the toolhead/hotend mounting holes of Tap and original carriage, the extruder holes are off a bit, which in turn causes that gap,
Dumb question: to skip canbus can one connect this via USB umbilical if the high power line is still taken care of? does that also avoid reflashing etc?
You can connect it via USB but USB really isn't designed for applications like this. It will likely be unreliable and eventually fail. You still need to flash klipper for USB.
@@IsiksTech Ok. thanks. Just.. I read enough accounts of people struggling with canbus reliability to make me think maybe usb is no worse, but a more commodity approach.
Great explanation, I am planning to build avoron 2.4 printer, as you have experiance with the ebb boards, I am trying to understand rather these ebbs in the video meant to be connected via bus can or UART? Does it matter in terms of speed? And are these ebbs compatible with manta m8p +CB1 via bus can? Thank you
You should use canbus. Not because of speed but because of the fragility of the USB cable and the electrical sensitivity of USB. Canbus should work with cb1. If m8p doesn't have a can transceiver (on BTT boards, if they have a transceiver they have a rj11 port) you will need an extra transceiver or a USB to can board like BTT U2C or mellow utoc
@@IsiksTech I'm not sure if there are other boards that do yet but in the case of the Octopus Max EZ it actually has a 2 pin JST XH for CAN instead of the RJ11 port which is really nice for the molded cable since it will plug right in.
So I'm running the stealth burner on my ender 3, I can't mount the board flush to my cw2 mounting plate because the surface isn't flat I have to use spacers, did anyone else have this issue?
Man I`m so fed up with hearing about not wanting tinned wires inside ferrals , and you must have ferrals . It`s total nonsense . Ferrals are a pain in the ass in a clamp connector and break much easier than a tinned wire . I`ve been using tinned wires and non tinned wires in clamp connection for the best part of 3 decades and never had an issue . I`m a qualified electronics tech with getting on 40 years experience and my own electronics services and repair company for 34 years and I keep hearing this complete and utter nonsense about these chinese alunimiun pieces of crap that people insist you put on the end of a wire and it drives me totally mad.....sheesh .....rant over ..lol
I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart for getting this up loaded I bought this and I didn't know where to start lol
Best technical review of a product like this that I’ve seen to date.
Amazing DoomCube you are running, very nice!
PSA 24AWG wire is hella-big for a raster signal connector, its low current, so probably 26-30AWG is big enough for this use case.
Don't the arrows on the adxl indicate that the board should be mounted flat/horizontal?
100% agree with the TINY 1.25 pins! I hate them!!!
Where do you connect the two power wire that are in the cable with the can bus connector on the motherboard or to the power supply?
Power supply or power connector on u2c/utoc
Had the 2209 working for less than 5 hours before it died on me. Mine came with pre-crimped wires you have to solder onto your existing wire to make those pin connections. I think using these small pin connections was a poor choice. For me, I'm going back to the Mellow SB2040.
These btt boards are shit
besides cable, do you know what chamber temps electronics can tolerate? what cable you would recommend for high temps?
The USB can't be an input? I don't know if USB over can is possible I guess lol.
Really good info! Thank you!
Could you please post a link to that printed part, that holds the CAN molded connector in place? Thanks again!
It's on the BTT GitHub repo linked in the description.
Also, you have the TapGap on top of your SB+CW2 toolhead, notice that gap? It wan's there before you switched to Tap, right.
I was using a different extruder before Tap. There wasn't a gap back then. I don't know if it's because of Tap new extruder or SB2240.
@@IsiksTech TapGap does not happen with the original mount, so yes, this gap is caused by Tap and this is confirmed, so expect an update. In CAD if you align the toolhead/hotend mounting holes of Tap and original carriage, the extruder holes are off a bit, which in turn causes that gap,
Dumb question: to skip canbus can one connect this via USB umbilical if the high power line is still taken care of? does that also avoid reflashing etc?
You can connect it via USB but USB really isn't designed for applications like this. It will likely be unreliable and eventually fail. You still need to flash klipper for USB.
@@IsiksTech Ok. thanks. Just.. I read enough accounts of people struggling with canbus reliability to make me think maybe usb is no worse, but a more commodity approach.
Great explanation, I am planning to build avoron 2.4 printer, as you have experiance with the ebb boards, I am trying to understand rather these ebbs in the video meant to be connected via bus can or UART? Does it matter in terms of speed? And are these ebbs compatible with manta m8p +CB1 via bus can? Thank you
You should use canbus. Not because of speed but because of the fragility of the USB cable and the electrical sensitivity of USB. Canbus should work with cb1. If m8p doesn't have a can transceiver (on BTT boards, if they have a transceiver they have a rj11 port) you will need an extra transceiver or a USB to can board like BTT U2C or mellow utoc
There doesn't seem to be a CAN port on the M8P you will need to get a BTT U2C.
@@IsiksTech I'm not sure if there are other boards that do yet but in the case of the Octopus Max EZ it actually has a 2 pin JST XH for CAN instead of the RJ11 port which is really nice for the molded cable since it will plug right in.
Does this come with the DuPont connectors or do I need to buy themselves to crimp
They were included with mine
So could you use the 2240 for input shaping since the intergrated adxl345?
Yes you can. Toolhead board placement of the ADXL is not ideal (should be as close to the nozzle as possible) but it is much better than nothing.
The Galileo 2 does not work with this PCB?
How so?
Works with Galileo 2
@@IsiksTech Thanks for clarifying.
I was panicking a little because I bought stuff already including this kit.
😁
What is the diameter of the umbilical cable (roughly)? I plan to shove it through a PTFE tube to stiffen it up
4mm
Nice video, at least I am not the only one who don't like those tiny connectors.
So I'm running the stealth burner on my ender 3, I can't mount the board flush to my cw2 mounting plate because the surface isn't flat I have to use spacers, did anyone else have this issue?
The spacer is included with the StealthBurner files. It's the same spacer other PCBs like the 2-piece HartK PCB use.
Isn't the tmc 2240 a new driver
It is. I think I mentioned that in the video.
Bigtree can is shit. I like your kusba. You should make a usb toolhead board we can plug and play.
Why not use as usb boa4d? Can bus sucks
You can do that if you want, but USB is not designed for that application so it can be unreliable. For toolhead boards, I recommend CAN bus.
Man I`m so fed up with hearing about not wanting tinned wires inside ferrals , and you must have ferrals . It`s total nonsense . Ferrals are a pain in the ass in a clamp connector and break much easier than a tinned wire . I`ve been using tinned wires and non tinned wires in clamp connection for the best part of 3 decades and never had an issue . I`m a qualified electronics tech with getting on 40 years experience and my own electronics services and repair company for 34 years and I keep hearing this complete and utter nonsense about these chinese alunimiun pieces of crap that people insist you put on the end of a wire and it drives me totally mad.....sheesh .....rant over ..lol