After a couple $200 in the lake the genius at the hobby shop tells me this Lucky for me I had extra parts! I like you channel keep up the good work brother !
That happened with my 1sr boat Shockwave, didn’t want to spend any extra $$ and bushing was unavailable at the time. So I used a piece of cooper tubing I already had and drilled the inside out so it would fit well with flex cable and pressed it into strut bullet. Worked better than factory . Thanks Big B for helping everyone out!!
I see what you're saying about the flex shaft getting shorter under load. But excessive slop between the strut and drive dog is going to put a Radial load on your motor bearings. The thrust needs to be transmitted to the strut or TRANSome not the motor.
So you think 1-2mm is better than 3-4mm. I see what your saying and understand. I just think that the "metal to metal" load on the bushing & dog would create more stress and friction on the system excessive heat etc. I'm thinking the "metal to metal" was causing the bushing the spin. The vibrations were terrible. I see exactly what you mean by "radial loading" in the motor bearing in the front endbell shouldn't the shims on the rotor prevent damage from loading?
@@IRONCLADRC best bet is to find a happy medium with the strut to drive dog gap. If the motor has shims on the rotor it's to take out any end play not to take a Radial load. On my big gassers I use a Delrin bushing between the strut and dog. It reduces the friction and is considered a ware item, usually 3-4 runs.
Hey man! Love ❤️ your vids. A bushing should never rotate in a strut. The bushing is there to support the drive shaft and not rotate like a bearing. . Another option would be to put a bearing with a flange on the strut.. BTW you should of shown the contraction of the drive shaft after the modification.
I had the same prob but with the rigger out the box the bushing spun and it makes noise which makes me think its not supposed to spin but idk. I locktited mine as well much better now. 👍🏼
I had a heated discussion about this subject on a boat Facebook group . I told him it shouldn't move , he told it has to & I said U will wear out the strut , the bushing & the flexshaft . Haven't seen your blackjack 42 lately . I'm guessing your strut & bushing is no good & waiting for parts . Keep up the good work Big B
Yea ive Tryed it locked in place I've tried it spinning tried different drops different drive dogs. I just got my bushing and stuffing tube in the mail just finished up the installation, working on the video now personally I like it locked into place, but it it wears the Bushing out quicker, with bushing spinning I get some crazy vibrations crazy vibrationsI'm really up in the air, You know what I mean. I like it locked into place, personally I appreciate your comments thank you for watching. The 42 is back in business
This video is exactly what I was looking for! I just bought a Sonicwake v2 and it has ~2mm gap. I wanted to increase this to 3-4mm before running it the first time. Did your V2 require extending the flat spot on the shaft?
I have been commenting on my blackjack 42. That is the boat that my flex cable is stuck on my new bj 42. I have the strut assembly loose. Is it supposed to be able to slide all the way back to the prop and up over the brass tube? I have pics on Facebook black jack owners group. Wish I could get in touch with you to help figure this out without ruining the boat.
I think it shouldn't spin, because the brass on aluminum is no way good bearing surfaces. I fought this "floating bushing" thing for a while. I eventually went to bushings, using two, one up in the front of the strut and one at the back. OSE has them. I've had good luck with the bushings.
For what it's worth, my bushing is flush with the end of the strut barrel... It does not sit proud like your bushing does. I'm thinking that when your bushing started to spin with the drive dog it began pulling out. You'll have to start asking others if their bushing sits flush with the strut barrel, or if it sits proud like yours. Anyway, just thought I'd share what mine looks like. 👍👍
Some people,as you know, completely remove the flex shaft after every run to prevent bowing of the shaft when the boat sits idle. Any bowing is going to cause problems.
OK.. I am lost.. there is a lot of back of forth of Spin and Not Spin.. Can we have one Definitive answer on the Spin or Not To Spin. thanks Side note... big fan, love the vids, so clear and informative ... much appreciated from So Cal. Tom TheBomb
Ok ok let me clear this up. The gap should be the same width as the flex cable. Yes the bushing should rotate. I dunno who the commenters are who are saying no but they wrong.
So it should spin. When mine spins she makes a loud loud vibration sound. I've been putting a drop of locktite on the bushing in the Strut and the loud vibrations have stoped. So maybe the next time I go out I will give it a shot w/o locktite? Thanks for the info brother
@@IRONCLADRC no prob. its normal for the felx cable to vibrate at the bushing when giving throttle out of the water. under load in the water it will be fine. also, metal props do not come balanced, so if you havent balanced the prop. its likel;y going to vibrate more, but jjust using some grease in your flex and bushing is all you need
Is it possible to replace the bushing with a sealed ball bearing? I just ordered a Blackjack 42 and can't wait to rip it on the water but I want to make it as "bullet proof" as possible before I break it :) Thanks for the great information. Cheers, Jeff (Garage Maker Guy)
My fix was to drill the strut body sides and add set screws, to hold the bushing stationary in the strut barrel, but still be able to be removed for service. Flush mount set screws and a swipe of clear goop over the holes. Light tension on the set screws, don't get crazy. 3mm sets. Fresh blue loctite, shook well. Udder Butter all over the cable and all is happy with a 2mm gap with a nylon rub washer, so no metal on metal, which causes heat and grease cast off then, on a hot prop, and used cable. This is what they should have done for a consumer boat. Damn China clear superglue/loctite crap on everything, including the bushing in the strut, the rudder pin, causing servo drag, the complete rudder assembly, engine mount screws, fittings on the engine cooling can. A fistfight to clear that stuff, but I got it all. ALOT of drag with that strut, the nose is noticeably blunt/wall. Now fixed with speedmaster round bottom medium Cat.
@@IRONCLADRC Our local LHS cant keep the 42's in stock. They received 6 and sold 6 in a matter of days. A dozen of batteries as well as chargers and shit. Flip of the switch, years later after incept. The Pac Northwest here, home of the Hydro's!. Everyone is money'd up from the kickers I guess,, and gotta use it or loose it, which is true.
Good info, might try this. Have u taken a hair off the stuffing tube to run a bit more negative prop angle on this boat? I’m not able to get this boat over 65 without it blowing over, even with the trim tabs and strut adjustments. Kinda out of ideas so thinking of taking a bit off the tube which would also enable a bit more dog gap I would think
Great Vid but I'd just like to throw my 2 cents in. I feel that the main reason for the bushing to be spinning is for the vibration of the flex shaft spinning inside the bushing not so much the drive dog butting up against the bushing. And then on that the prop may be ever so slightly unbalanced causing the shaft to oscillate inside the bushing unevenly. It would only need to be slight but enough for the oscillating action of the shaft inside the bushing to make it spin. As your video at 1:40 clearly shows the bushing rotating but I feel it's inconclusive as to the drive dog imparting any pressure on it to make it move. So I'd definitely suggest replacing the bushing with a bearing. As to the need to relocate the prop further along the shaft I feel in that instance if the prop is slightly unbalanced it may impart a more ( please forgive my inability to find the right words to describe the actions) pendulum effect on the prop creating more vibration on the end of the shaft the further you have it from the strut. I'm not saying that my hypothesis is the absolute but I feel there are other forces at play here. I feel if I could draw it better than using words. But anyway just suggesting some things to consider or factor in to your modding. I'd like to point out that here at this website rcboatbitz.com/category/props/ they have prop balances and I feel when you're getting into the realms of big monster boats ( I feel the BJ42 is there) and using alloy props the need to balance them is important just like with model aircraft props. Anyway Great vid and keep it up. Cheers
The strut bushing is stationary and had a bearing so it should not spin with the shaft.Make sure your strut is snug to the tube and the step down should be about the same as a nylon bushing gap!Grinding off more only gets it out of balance more and cause vibration at high rpm🤔
Again thank you. I kinda knew it wasn't supposed to spin.. a little locktite goes a long way on the bushing. I've had a speedmaster strut that the bushing spun in the stuffing tune I actually loved that strut, so smooth
Hi, my name is Richard, I have a 58inch x15 inch v hull , Iam wondering how and where to install the propeller hardware when I get it and fo you have any suggestions on what I need to get thankyou
How bout trying to remove the Allen nut from the collar assembly! From the factory they over tightened the nut and I had to drill the dam thing out carefully. I have ordered spare shaft assembly and extra collars. I have 3 emails into horizon website over 2 weeks and no response! I am furious about this. Being in the marine industry having the bearing spinning to me is not something I’ve seen. The Rc boat field is new to me though. I know in powerboats with inboards we have cutlas bearings. This is a brass collar with hard rubber the shaft goes through which is attached into the struts. There are about 8 “v” slots that allow the water to pass through under way. That obviously prevents overheating and friction. If that brass collar spun you’d be in a lot of trouble. It is pressed into the strut and has to be pressed out which has 2 stainless steel Allen screws to keep it seated. Btw nice vid.
Quick question for you, the brass bit that goes into the stuffing tube and you can get your 1/2 mm clearance keeps coming out of the strut does it needs to be fixed in place with lock tight or something it's becoming troublesome? Hobbyking aquaholic v2, Loving the vids, much appreciated 🇬🇧
I use blu locktight in my removable bushings.. I whip inside strut & outside lip of bushing with alcohol and put a little dab of blue locktite, when you pull bushing out just use a little heat to coax her out.
Thanks for the reply, won't need to heat it to remove it, it'll just pull out, I'll buy some blue lock tight, Cheers again, you've been really helpful 👌
Didn't you heat that bushing to get it out of the tubing? I thought you mention that in your other video. I did see one other video were this other person hammer the whole drive out of the tubing .he would loosen the nut of the prop then he used a pear of cutting pliers and positioned it between the prop and nut and lightly tap the whole bushing and shaft out of the tubing.
Yeah that's what I thought I thought it was a copy of a speedmaster bushing just souped up larger size I mentioned that in one of my videos that is supposed to spin spin and everybody jumped all over me saying not supposed to spin so I tried it both ways it works both ways, both ways work! Obviously less wear with the bushing spinning
Only a small bit, im working on follow up vid now. Trying to come up with a way to put strain on the system out of water, so I can video the effects? Any ideas. . Thanks for the input 👍
Bush should never spin ...... depending on if the top end is clamped at the motor if so the gap at the dog give it a 1/8 INCH GAP . IF THE TOP END of the cable square and runs loose in coupler your don't need the gap
Roger that. I know speed master bushing are made to spin in the strut/stuffing tube. I know that for a fact. Thanks for watching brother. I had zero problems with my flexcable when I loc-tighted the bushing into place. Zero! Had a few guys say to let the bushing spin, so I did rt,!!!! Broke 2 flexcables letting the bushing spin. I agree 100%. Loc-tight that bad boy into place. You want have any issues!
Maybe that's why I'm experiencing a weird noise when I start to accelerate, the only way I can describe it is it sounds like bearing skip, then disappears at higher revs,
@@IRONCLADRC thanks for the reply, don't think there's any play that I've noticed, I've had it 3 months now and it's been like that from day 1, I'll check it for play tomorrow, Thanks again, keep the videos coming I really enjoy them 👌🇬🇧
Push the shaft up onto the Strut bushing as far forward as you can, and tighten it down in the collet. (Disregard the 2mm gap between the drive dog and bushing) Rev up the motor and see if it's still making the noise. Let me know what it does?
@@IRONCLADRC I've tried it in both ways, tight up to the strut and a couple of mil clearance, At the weekend, but in water with no difference, The brass Bush only pushes into the strut one point five mil so there's not a lot of room for clearances,
The word you are looking for is constrict. Great channel!
Yes! Thank you!
After a couple $200 in the lake the genius at the hobby shop tells me this Lucky for me I had extra parts!
I like you channel keep up the good work brother !
That happened with my 1sr boat Shockwave, didn’t want to spend any extra $$ and bushing was unavailable at the time. So I used a piece of cooper tubing I already had and drilled the inside out so it would fit well with flex cable and pressed it into strut bullet. Worked better than factory . Thanks Big B for helping everyone out!!
Lol. I've done that myself Cross drilled the grease dams and all. Thanks for watching
Good stuff bro. Way to spread the knowledge to the people
I see what you're saying about the flex shaft getting shorter under load. But excessive slop between the strut and drive dog is going to put a Radial load on your motor bearings. The thrust needs to be transmitted to the strut or TRANSome not the motor.
So you think 1-2mm is better than 3-4mm. I see what your saying and understand. I just think that the "metal to metal" load on the bushing & dog would create more stress and friction on the system excessive heat etc. I'm thinking the "metal to metal" was causing the bushing the spin. The vibrations were terrible. I see exactly what you mean by "radial loading" in the motor bearing in the front endbell shouldn't the shims on the rotor prevent damage from loading?
@@IRONCLADRC best bet is to find a happy medium with the strut to drive dog gap. If the motor has shims on the rotor it's to take out any end play not to take a Radial load. On my big gassers I use a Delrin bushing between the strut and dog. It reduces the friction and is considered a ware item, usually 3-4 runs.
@@kendesign3622 Would it be good to use a thrust ball bearing here?
Hey man! Love ❤️ your vids. A bushing should never rotate in a strut. The bushing is there to support the drive shaft and not rotate like a bearing. . Another option would be to put a bearing with a flange on the strut.. BTW you should of shown the contraction of the drive shaft after the modification.
Thanks. I appreciate it!
I had the same prob but with the rigger out the box the bushing spun and it makes noise which makes me think its not supposed to spin but idk. I locktited mine as well much better now. 👍🏼
I had a heated discussion about this subject on a boat Facebook group . I told him it shouldn't move , he told it has to & I said U will wear out the strut , the bushing & the flexshaft . Haven't seen your blackjack 42 lately . I'm guessing your strut & bushing is no good & waiting for parts . Keep up the good work Big B
Yea ive Tryed it locked in place I've tried it spinning tried different drops different drive dogs. I just got my bushing and stuffing tube in the mail just finished up the installation, working on the video now personally I like it locked into place, but it it wears the Bushing out quicker, with bushing spinning I get some crazy vibrations crazy vibrationsI'm really up in the air, You know what I mean. I like it locked into place, personally I appreciate your comments thank you for watching. The 42 is back in business
Try to find a steel bearing to replace the bushing. #2 no the bushing should not turn.
I strongly disagree, bushings like speedmaster bearing are designed to spin. If setup right, they should basically spin half the rpm of the shaft
That flexshaft has a new design and a less gap needed from flex!Improves the leak issue when grease is low in shaft tube👍
Roger that.. Great to know thanks! 😊
Just curious where you got that info from? There's nothing in the Manual about it being a new design.
Great video 👍
Thanks for telling us mate , I better check the wife's black jack before she runs it.
This video is exactly what I was looking for! I just bought a Sonicwake v2 and it has ~2mm gap. I wanted to increase this to 3-4mm before running it the first time. Did your V2 require extending the flat spot on the shaft?
I have been commenting on my blackjack 42. That is the boat that my flex cable is stuck on my new bj 42. I have the strut assembly loose. Is it supposed to be able to slide all the way back to the prop and up over the brass tube? I have pics on Facebook black jack owners group. Wish I could get in touch with you to help figure this out without ruining the boat.
I think it shouldn't spin, because the brass on aluminum is no way good bearing surfaces. I fought this "floating bushing" thing for a while. I eventually went to bushings, using two, one up in the front of the strut and one at the back. OSE has them. I've had good luck with the bushings.
yep, that is what I've been saying.
Thanks for catching that mistake my friend.
For what it's worth, my bushing is flush with the end of the strut barrel... It does not sit proud like your bushing does. I'm thinking that when your bushing started to spin with the drive dog it began pulling out. You'll have to start asking others if their bushing sits flush with the strut barrel, or if it sits proud like yours. Anyway, just thought I'd share what mine looks like. 👍👍
Mine sits flush brother. Had everything disconnected and pulled apart while working on shaft
@@IRONCLADRC gotcha man, just checking! Can't assume, and always start with basics! 😜 👍
Some people,as you know, completely remove the flex shaft after every run to prevent bowing of the shaft when the boat sits idle. Any bowing is going to cause problems.
Also prevents rust
OK.. I am lost.. there is a lot of back of forth of Spin and Not Spin.. Can we have one Definitive answer on the Spin or Not To Spin. thanks
Side note... big fan, love the vids, so clear and informative ... much appreciated from So Cal. Tom TheBomb
Either way, really, works both ways.. I found, letting it spin worked much better.
When I ran my 42 yesterday, Notice that the Strut spins 7 Moves out of the strut about 2mm@@IRONCLADRC
Ok ok let me clear this up. The gap should be the same width as the flex cable.
Yes the bushing should rotate. I dunno who the commenters are who are saying no but they wrong.
So it should spin. When mine spins she makes a loud loud vibration sound. I've been putting a drop of locktite on the bushing in the Strut and the loud vibrations have stoped. So maybe the next time I go out I will give it a shot w/o locktite? Thanks for the info brother
@@IRONCLADRC no prob. its normal for the felx cable to vibrate at the bushing when giving throttle out of the water. under load in the water it will be fine. also, metal props do not come balanced, so if you havent balanced the prop. its likel;y going to vibrate more, but jjust using some grease in your flex and bushing is all you need
Question, if you lock that in place . How do you grease your flex shaft ?
Is it possible to replace the bushing with a sealed ball bearing? I just ordered a Blackjack 42 and can't wait to rip it on the water but I want to make it as "bullet proof" as possible before I break it :) Thanks for the great information.
Cheers,
Jeff (Garage Maker Guy)
thanks for this very important tip !!!
My fix was to drill the strut body sides and add set screws, to hold the bushing stationary in the strut barrel, but still be able to be removed for service. Flush mount set screws and a swipe of clear goop over the holes. Light tension on the set screws, don't get crazy. 3mm sets. Fresh blue loctite, shook well. Udder Butter all over the cable and all is happy with a 2mm gap with a nylon rub washer, so no metal on metal, which causes heat and grease cast off then, on a hot prop, and used cable. This is what they should have done for a consumer boat. Damn China clear superglue/loctite crap on everything, including the bushing in the strut, the rudder pin, causing servo drag, the complete rudder assembly, engine mount screws, fittings on the engine cooling can. A fistfight to clear that stuff, but I got it all. ALOT of drag with that strut, the nose is noticeably blunt/wall. Now fixed with speedmaster round bottom medium Cat.
I went with a flat bottom speed master strut, round or flat either option is a great upgrade 👌
@@IRONCLADRC Our local LHS cant keep the 42's in stock. They received 6 and sold 6 in a matter of days. A dozen of batteries as well as chargers and shit. Flip of the switch, years later after incept. The Pac Northwest here, home of the Hydro's!. Everyone is money'd up from the kickers I guess,, and gotta use it or loose it, which is true.
Good info, might try this. Have u taken a hair off the stuffing tube to run a bit more negative prop angle on this boat? I’m not able to get this boat over 65 without it blowing over, even with the trim tabs and strut adjustments. Kinda out of ideas so thinking of taking a bit off the tube which would also enable a bit more dog gap I would think
Shaving a few mm off my strt was the first modification I did the the 42 strut adjustments was very limited in its stock form
Great Vid but I'd just like to throw my 2 cents in. I feel that the main reason for the bushing to be spinning is for the vibration of the flex shaft spinning inside the bushing not so much the drive dog butting up against the bushing. And then on that the prop may be ever so slightly unbalanced causing the shaft to oscillate inside the bushing unevenly. It would only need to be slight but enough for the oscillating action of the shaft inside the bushing to make it spin. As your video at 1:40 clearly shows the bushing rotating but I feel it's inconclusive as to the drive dog imparting any pressure on it to make it move. So I'd definitely suggest replacing the bushing with a bearing. As to the need to relocate the prop further along the shaft I feel in that instance if the prop is slightly unbalanced it may impart a more ( please forgive my inability to find the right words to describe the actions) pendulum effect on the prop creating more vibration on the end of the shaft the further you have it from the strut. I'm not saying that my hypothesis is the absolute but I feel there are other forces at play here. I feel if I could draw it better than using words. But anyway just suggesting some things to consider or factor in to your modding. I'd like to point out that here at this website rcboatbitz.com/category/props/ they have prop balances and I feel when you're getting into the realms of big monster boats ( I feel the BJ42 is there) and using alloy props the need to balance them is important just like with model aircraft props. Anyway Great vid and keep it up. Cheers
The strut bushing is stationary and had a bearing so it should not spin with the shaft.Make sure your strut is snug to the tube and the step down should be about the same as a nylon bushing gap!Grinding off more only gets it out of balance more and cause vibration at high rpm🤔
Again thank you. I kinda knew it wasn't supposed to spin.. a little locktite goes a long way on the bushing. I've had a speedmaster strut that the bushing spun in the stuffing tune I actually loved that strut, so smooth
Hi, my name is Richard, I have a 58inch x15 inch v hull , Iam wondering how and where to install the propeller hardware when I get it and fo you have any suggestions on what I need to get thankyou
Ok, mine spins and comes out to take up gap . If I lock it in . How do you grease the shaft
Have you ever ran a outdrive or out board motor on any of your boats especially a rigger boat?
No sir I hadn't. Wish I could help
Question, should I be greasing the bushing on every other run like I do with the drive shaft #IRONCLADRC?
I take my shaft & bushing out and heavily grease before I go to the lake that's it. Heavy grease heavy.
How bout trying to remove the Allen nut from the collar assembly! From the factory they over tightened the nut and I had to drill the dam thing out carefully. I have ordered spare shaft assembly and extra collars. I have 3 emails into horizon website over 2 weeks and no response! I am furious about this. Being in the marine industry having the bearing spinning to me is not something I’ve seen. The Rc boat field is new to me though. I know in powerboats with inboards we have cutlas bearings. This is a brass collar with hard rubber the shaft goes through which is attached into the struts. There are about 8 “v” slots that allow the water to pass through under way. That obviously prevents overheating and friction. If that brass collar spun you’d be in a lot of trouble. It is pressed into the strut and has to be pressed out which has 2 stainless steel Allen screws to keep it seated. Btw nice vid.
Quick question for you, the brass bit that goes into the stuffing tube and you can get your 1/2 mm clearance keeps coming out of the strut does it needs to be fixed in place with lock tight or something it's becoming troublesome?
Hobbyking aquaholic v2,
Loving the vids, much appreciated 🇬🇧
I use blu locktight in my removable bushings.. I whip inside strut & outside lip of bushing with alcohol and put a little dab of blue locktite, when you pull bushing out just use a little heat to coax her out.
Thanks for the reply, won't need to heat it to remove it, it'll just pull out,
I'll buy some blue lock tight,
Cheers again, you've been really helpful 👌
Great video ,👍 any up date how this is holding up? Thanks
It held up great up until I upgraded my driveline
@@IRONCLADRC what happened? You changed it out from stock? I must have missed that Video.
Can’t get it tapped out with the hammer and needle nose? Any other suggestions?
Heat the strut barrel up with a small torch
Nice to no 👍Allen Quebec canada merci
Didn't you heat that bushing to get it out of the tubing? I thought you mention that in your other video. I did see one other video were this other person hammer the whole drive out of the tubing .he would loosen the nut of the prop then he used a pear of cutting pliers and positioned it between the prop and nut and lightly tap the whole bushing and shaft out of the tubing.
It was tough to get out the first time, after the initial disassembly it's was rather easy.
The bushing in that strut is a copy of Speedmaster's it is designed to spin in the strut
Yeah that's what I thought I thought it was a copy of a speedmaster bushing just souped up larger size I mentioned that in one of my videos that is supposed to spin spin and everybody jumped all over me saying not supposed to spin so I tried it both ways it works both ways, both ways work! Obviously less wear with the bushing spinning
Cool Channel bro.
Is the cable on the BJ42 not a one piece?
Keep up these honest awesome videoes
It is 1 piece. thank you for watching
@@IRONCLADRC then why not just pull the entire shaft out of the motor collet just a little more, to make the right gap
Btw. The bushing inside the strut housing i don’t think is supposed to turn, but at that rate of speed i think its ok.
Where can I buy a stinger with large cable?
Offshore electric
i think your drive dog will move inward when your boat runs. try to observe after running and show it on your next video pal.
Only a small bit, im working on follow up vid now. Trying to come up with a way to put strain on the system out of water, so I can video the effects? Any ideas. . Thanks for the input 👍
Bush should never spin ...... depending on if the top end is clamped at the motor if so the gap at the dog give it a 1/8 INCH GAP . IF THE TOP END of the cable square and runs loose in coupler your don't need the gap
Roger that. I know speed master bushing are made to spin in the strut/stuffing tube. I know that for a fact. Thanks for watching brother. I had zero problems with my flexcable when I loc-tighted the bushing into place. Zero! Had a few guys say to let the bushing spin, so I did rt,!!!! Broke 2 flexcables letting the bushing spin. I agree 100%. Loc-tight that bad boy into place. You want have any issues!
Maybe that's why I'm experiencing a weird noise when I start to accelerate, the only way I can describe it is it sounds like bearing skip, then disappears at higher revs,
Is the shaft moving around in the bushing? Is there side to side play
@@IRONCLADRC thanks for the reply, don't think there's any play that I've noticed,
I've had it 3 months now and it's been like that from day 1,
I'll check it for play tomorrow,
Thanks again, keep the videos coming I really enjoy them 👌🇬🇧
Push the shaft up onto the Strut bushing as far forward as you can, and tighten it down in the collet. (Disregard the 2mm gap between the drive dog and bushing) Rev up the motor and see if it's still making the noise. Let me know what it does?
@@IRONCLADRC I've tried it in both ways, tight up to the strut and a couple of mil clearance,
At the weekend, but in water with no difference,
The brass Bush only pushes into the strut one point five mil so there's not a lot of room for clearances,
Can I send you a link to my utube video, where you can definitely hear the problem?
Use a nylon washer of 3 mm and no the bushing is stationary.
My bushing worked best spinning
The bushing supost to spin is normal but i always put lock glue and make it like the old ones
First
I appreciate your vids but damn this boat requires work.