Never seen so much involved in removing a shaft... it also aucks that the strut setting is compromised every time if you have to do it this way. It should be removable just by breaking the collet loose and pulling on the prop.
The reason the wire cable is 1/4" and the stub is 3/16" is because that size motor will break the smaller size cable. its stepped down so you can easily buy small diameter props. 1/4" props are for gas boats with the smallest size being at least 20mm larger than the one fitted
Another positive with this flex shaft arrangement that has already mentioned is if the shaft breaks before the strut bushing you won't lose your prop. It's a pain in the ass having to go through the extra steps to get shaft out but losing a $60 custom prop
my bushing came out with the shaft - it wasn't easy pulling it out. it has holes in it I assume is meant to get the grease inside. the instructions don't show this bushing, so I was quite surprised on how to deal with it. they certainly don't say to remove the prop each time you lube the flex shaft.
Hi guyes. you dont need to take the drive strut off. Take prop and drive dog off shaft. Cut yourself a length of alloy tube. Inner diameter just larger than the brass bushing in strut. Slide this on shaft up against strut and put large washer at rear and then just tighten prop nut. As you do this the shaft will be pulled rearward and the brass bushing will slide out of the strut as well. The brass bushing is quite a tight fit but the step on the shaft pushes it out. That way you don't have to set your strut up in right position again. Hope that helps. That's how I do it. Easy .
@@vermrc2511 Hi Ryan, thanks for your reply. Your way of doing the shaft is great, and works well. Thanks for posting. I was just giving people a different view. I'm sure there will be more ways to do it too. May I add also that I did sand the brass bushing down a little on the thickest part where it fits into the strut. Now it is firm but does not spin and is much easies to remove by pulling on the prop. Cheers.
Im not being rude but thats a terrible idea. It will lead to your bearing spinning on the shaft once youve pulled it out too many times. Again just giving some advise so newbs dont ruin their boats
@@vermrc2511 i think i misunderstood your original comment although i cant seem to find it here now. doesnt matter, i really thought you were advising people to press the bushing out of the strut, obviously you didnt mean that so my apologies, i hope that didnt cause you any offence
how do you leave a 1-2mm gap to accommodate the contraction of the flex shaft? with the step design, it leaves no room for this gap with the bushing and the prop nut.
There’s two water nipples on the factory rudder, and a pre allocated spot in the transom for a second water line to come in. I use the m6 or m8 aluminum water outlets on Amazon or from OSE
this system allows for no water at all to come in the hull...its on many rc boats but no one knows untill they see how its done. the manul should show how buy i guess they fucked up.
@@bradgoodale9003 this video is three years old. When it first came out no one had any support on it. Being I had the boat early I found this to be an issue
Thanks for posting. I tried for about 10 minutes and couldn't get it. This made it super easy. It slid right off.
Hey man, great video! Just added this to the fleet and I was struggling with the shaft. Thanks so much for the help!
No problem! I like the idea of the bushing staying in there
Never seen so much involved in removing a shaft... it also aucks that the strut setting is compromised every time if you have to do it this way. It should be removable just by breaking the collet loose and pulling on the prop.
Ok. Thank you for sharing bro
The reason the wire cable is 1/4" and the stub is 3/16" is because that size motor will break the smaller size cable. its stepped down so you can easily buy small diameter props. 1/4" props are for gas boats with the smallest size being at least 20mm larger than the one fitted
Another positive with this flex shaft arrangement that has already mentioned is if the shaft breaks before the strut bushing you won't lose your prop. It's a pain in the ass having to go through the extra steps to get shaft out but losing a $60 custom prop
Not losing a $60 custom prop makes it worth the time.
my bushing came out with the shaft - it wasn't easy pulling it out. it has holes in it I assume is meant to get the grease inside. the instructions don't show this bushing, so I was quite surprised on how to deal with it. they certainly don't say to remove the prop each time you lube the flex shaft.
Good fixing ✌️
Hi guyes. you dont need to take the drive strut off. Take prop and drive dog off shaft. Cut yourself a length of alloy tube. Inner diameter just larger than the brass bushing in strut. Slide this on shaft up against strut and put large washer at rear and then just tighten prop nut. As you do this the shaft will be pulled rearward and the brass bushing will slide out of the strut as well. The brass bushing is quite a tight fit but the step on the shaft pushes it out. That way you don't have to set your strut up in right position again. Hope that helps. That's how I do it. Easy .
Yes we know you don’t have to. This is how I do it. As the title states
@@vermrc2511 Hi Ryan, thanks for your reply. Your way of doing the shaft is great, and works well. Thanks for posting. I was just giving people a different view. I'm sure there will be more ways to do it too. May I add also that I did sand the brass bushing down a little on the thickest part where it fits into the strut. Now it is firm but does not spin and is much easies to remove by pulling on the prop. Cheers.
Im not being rude but thats a terrible idea. It will lead to your bearing spinning on the shaft once youve pulled it out too many times. Again just giving some advise so newbs dont ruin their boats
@@RCBoatBitz what bearing, explain to me where there’s a bearing anywhere touching the flex shaft
@@vermrc2511 i think i misunderstood your original comment although i cant seem to find it here now. doesnt matter, i really thought you were advising people to press the bushing out of the strut, obviously you didnt mean that so my apologies, i hope that didnt cause you any offence
I like how you use both the cooling hoses. How does the 2nd one exit?
I have both of them coming out of the transom
how do you leave a 1-2mm gap to accommodate the contraction of the flex shaft? with the step design, it leaves no room for this gap with the bushing and the prop nut.
Same process as the Zelos 48G!
👍
Weird I have a lot of R/C boats gas and FE never seen that setup, maybe upgrade the shaft to one size
I don’t mind doing it this way, enables me to get grease on the brass tube where it slide into the strut
Ryan Vermillion I’d definitely be changing that strut and shaft way too much work considering you need to grease the flex shaft every few runs...
I just pick up this boat am Curious how you ran the second line for the water pick up and how do you have it coming out the boat
There’s two water nipples on the factory rudder, and a pre allocated spot in the transom for a second water line to come in. I use the m6 or m8 aluminum water outlets on Amazon or from OSE
this system allows for no water at all to come in the hull...its on many rc boats but no one knows untill they see how its done. the manul should show how buy i guess they fucked up.
Does anybody know how to do you grease your bushing in the strut?
Yes! but you should NOT have to do this wtf
@@bradgoodale9003 this video is three years old. When it first came out no one had any support on it. Being I had the boat early I found this to be an issue