Did you have any link binding issues when you built yours? Just finished mine up and at all four corners it feels as if the links bind when flexed. Everything is in the exact same spot as yours but your axles look much more free than mine.
You build so many rigs and you still get that rush when you start a new one. And you transmit to your subscribers. Keep on trucking brother. Love it...
For that understeer issue, try to switch your front tires left to right so the treads are backwards, it's an old school 10 scale crawler trick, I run most of our rigs that way.
Wow, only 4 minutes in and I want one! Once my home course is ready I am going to be doing a lot more small scale crawler content. Right, I'm gonna watch the rest of the video! 🙃
Thank god for this. Really appreciate the build video. Just got mine in and realized there’s no instructions or videos on their site on how to build it 😅
Looks amazing! I really don't like that ridiculously long rear. The comp upgrade kit i think shortens that up? Extremely clean belly on these. I also like the shock towers NOT built into the frame rails, so that's a big plus for me.
I really appreciate your balanced review. Too many channels kiss these companies butts. It seems the front links are a bit long, i see these get hung up around the skid even though the skid is so smoothe, i can't figure it out, maybe it's also related to the under-steer, with the balance throwing it to the side. I dunno. Again, i really love how clean that is on the belly, and the modular shock mounts. Thanks again!
I just bought my first crawler. 1/24th scale in Hyannis a few weeks ago. My brother-in-law got me in to the hobby. And I found you. And realized you're based in Cape Cod. Super cool keep up the good content it's great
This Silverado body i have for you would be the perfect match for that chassis....I got you, Adam. I think you'll agree. But, we shall see. I'll send it when i send the CJ bodies back to you....i think youll love this hardbody
It looks really good. Nice colour combo. It's funny how it hooks up very well on the backyard rocks but the indoor course is too slick.....horses for courses I guess!
I love that frame kit wow, well done. Love the color style of the Bronco R. I hope your looking at texoma RC again. As a crazy project, the slayer elite with the new cage look absolutly amazing and seem to perform very well. Iwould love to see someone build it. Thanks again for the great content 👍
So Adam, since finishing the build, what is the correct fix to getting the rear axle moved further back, to use the rear body mount correctly? The body seems to still sit a bit too far back, in my opinion, on your finished rig.
That's a really good little motor man I put a 13 tooth pinion on it that way it bumped up the Wheels speed but kept that slow crawl the only complaint I have it's amazing motor super strong honestly it's stronger than several of the other micro Motors surprisingly cuz it's littler but it's something different in that motor you can hear it by the sound I heard Adam say that and I didn't know what he was talking about I bought one and it's definitely for sure almost like it has more magnets closer together or something it does get warm though
Question. Are you running your shocks upside down and with no springs? Does that give you extra travel and flex. I’m also wondering if that’s how your rig is squared so low. I’m new to the rc crawler hobby, trying to learn as much as I can.
you 100% dont need the double barrels, theyre just too much, they bind, and let the axles get too far from the chassis. Beneficial rarely. Ive ran alot of different set ups with them, and i used to be a fan, but ive now realized that just a few millimeters over the stock shock travel is ideal.
hey cape i have a trx4m and i am searching for a new chassis so i am interested in a injora kangaroo lcg chassis, so i searched for a review but could not find one so the question is if u can make a review of the injora kangaroo lcg chassis? ( u prob will get alot of views since there are no reviews of the product)
I'm putting my kit together at the moment. I got the LGRP Creeper motor and the LGRP Billet Transmission, am I supposed to use the .5 Mod pinion for that combo? I'm assuming so but just checking because there are also a couple other pinions I received.... Btw, great video!
Man, them some chonky frame rails! A bit puzzled by the shock towers. Why go plastic, and have all the extra screws when they could be just part of the alum. frame design?
@@CapeCrawlers Nice! I actually meant the towers as one piece with the frame rails. Cut out as part of the frame as one piece. But I see the towers can be moved fore and aft so that's better having them separate. 👍
looks like the tires are just too stiff maybe try cutting the foams thinner and keep them stiff but they still will conform like look at 25 mins in when you grab the rock with your right front tire there is no conforming its literally barely touching on one lug and the tires wont compress maybe even try foamless and see if you lose much on sidehill
So how does this compare to the Cheat Code ? I am hesitating with the Cheatcode because of the printed skid, this might break or when rebuilding often ruin screw threads in the soft plastic - and since i am in europe i can't easily order another. Only reason keeping me away from it to be honest.
I wouldnt hesitate to buy the cheat code if I were you. It is so well made and that skid is beefy! The LGRP kit is right up there with the cheat code in my opinion. I need to sort out my tire setup and link positions and then I think it will be on par with my cheat code builds.
So there website say 160 wb that is basically gladiator wheelbase correct ? Been debating this or a mazz any input is greatly appreciated trying to run with a custom hardbody
I stripped a screw in one of the LGRP axiasl... Im trying to figure out how I can get that screw out without causing anymore damage... Any suggestions? THX
That's a really cool little kit. The 3d parts look like they're SLS prints. High quality looking. Would FCX24 axles bolt in there? That would be a nice combo.
I noticed that too. I'm really not a fan of the look of printed parts. The lines on just about all them look like crap, to me. And way to much sanding to get them smooth. These almost look injection molded and media tumbled.
I don't think the Styrofoam is a good benchmark for performance. A lot of tires/rigs don't do well on it, because of the low-grip & how Styrofoam is crumbly. I think you should use an outdoor course for a new testing/benchmark for rigs. Since 99% of comps & people go out on the rocks to begin with.
Yeah, have to agree. I really think painted foam and plaster are big mistakes. Cheap and easy. But cheaper and almost as easy, but way better is a www.youtube.com/@REACTIVETERRAIN method. So much more durable and realistic. For terrain and indoor course building, they're the ultimate go to. WAY under viewed and sub'd to for sure!
Timestamps
First look at the chassis kit: 0:28
Cassis assembly: 2:40
Fully assembled chassis: 12:33
Finished product: 14:44
Performance tests: 17:24
Indoor course runs: 18:51
Final thoughts: 24:21
Did you have any link binding issues when you built yours? Just finished mine up and at all four corners it feels as if the links bind when flexed. Everything is in the exact same spot as yours but your axles look much more free than mine.
@@NovemberFoxtrotRCdid you ever figure out what was wrong I just purchased some axles and they feel like something is binding
@@Fbody_123 Just drive it. They’ll break in through that. That’s what happened with mine.
@@NovemberFoxtrotRC hmmmm ima try that when I go reverse it slowes down and the rear end lifts up a little
@@Fbody_123 yep same with mine. Gear breakin.
You build so many rigs and you still get that rush when you start a new one. And you transmit to your subscribers. Keep on trucking brother. Love it...
I think you should make an underground section of the course under the mini Moab part. You could make a sick cave!
For that understeer issue, try to switch your front tires left to right so the treads are backwards, it's an old school 10 scale crawler trick, I run most of our rigs that way.
Ahhh I will try that!
Wow, only 4 minutes in and I want one! Once my home course is ready I am going to be doing a lot more small scale crawler content. Right, I'm gonna watch the rest of the video! 🙃
Thank god for this. Really appreciate the build video. Just got mine in and realized there’s no instructions or videos on their site on how to build it 😅
Looks amazing!
I really don't like that ridiculously long rear. The comp upgrade kit i think shortens that up?
Extremely clean belly on these.
I also like the shock towers NOT built into the frame rails, so that's a big plus for me.
I really appreciate your balanced review. Too many channels kiss these companies butts.
It seems the front links are a bit long, i see these get hung up around the skid even though the skid is so smoothe, i can't figure it out, maybe it's also related to the under-steer, with the balance throwing it to the side.
I dunno.
Again, i really love how clean that is on the belly, and the modular shock mounts.
Thanks again!
Those tires have caused me alot of frustration. This build would be alot more capable on the black labels. Thanks for this video sir 🙏💪
I just bought my first crawler. 1/24th scale in Hyannis a few weeks ago. My brother-in-law got me in to the hobby. And I found you.
And realized you're based in Cape Cod. Super cool keep up the good content it's great
That’s awesome! Did you get it at Centerline hobbies? That’s our go-to shop. We’re there all the time!
Yes!!!! That's where I went...my brother in-law and I were in heaven. Great shop!! I live in the berkshires in western Mass
This Silverado body i have for you would be the perfect match for that chassis....I got you, Adam. I think you'll agree. But, we shall see. I'll send it when i send the CJ bodies back to you....i think youll love this hardbody
OK I love the look of this thing and I agree with you totally regarding tyres. I think comp pins would just walk this! Nice job Adam TTFN
It looks really good. Nice colour combo. It's funny how it hooks up very well on the backyard rocks but the indoor course is too slick.....horses for courses I guess!
I love that frame kit wow, well done. Love the color style of the Bronco R. I hope your looking at texoma RC again. As a crazy project, the slayer elite with the new cage look absolutly amazing and seem to perform very well. Iwould love to see someone build it. Thanks again for the great content 👍
Built mine a week or two ago, can’t wait to see where you set up your links for optimal flex!
Initial comment, I have been digging this item since the 1st email
So Adam, since finishing the build, what is the correct fix to getting the rear axle moved further back, to use the rear body mount correctly? The body seems to still sit a bit too far back, in my opinion, on your finished rig.
That's a really good little motor man I put a 13 tooth pinion on it that way it bumped up the Wheels speed but kept that slow crawl the only complaint I have it's amazing motor super strong honestly it's stronger than several of the other micro Motors surprisingly cuz it's littler but it's something different in that motor you can hear it by the sound I heard Adam say that and I didn't know what he was talking about I bought one and it's definitely for sure almost like it has more magnets closer together or something it does get warm though
I have been excited to see this one. I have checked it out a few times, it looks like a piece of art!
Question. Are you running your shocks upside down and with no springs? Does that give you extra travel and flex. I’m also wondering if that’s how your rig is squared so low. I’m new to the rc crawler hobby, trying to learn as much as I can.
could you please try adjusting the upper link mounting positions but keep the tires the same. Thank you and keep up the great content.
you 100% dont need the double barrels, theyre just too much, they bind, and let the axles get too far from the chassis. Beneficial rarely. Ive ran alot of different set ups with them, and i used to be a fan, but ive now realized that just a few millimeters over the stock shock travel is ideal.
Im running c10 rear links and gladiator rear links on my new build
hey cape
i have a trx4m and i am searching for a new chassis so i am interested in a injora kangaroo lcg chassis, so i searched for a review but could not find one so the question is if u can make a review of the injora kangaroo lcg chassis?
( u prob will get alot of views since there are no reviews of the product)
You didn't get the cage? Or the billet bits? Trust me Adam the whole package is worth it. Amazing fitment and style👍🤠👍
Unfortunately half of the stuff is currently not available, wanted to order but cage and billet parts out of stock .
pretty sick build!
Flip the body mount and raise the body hold tower
Do you have an idea of how i should take my scx24 on a plane? Usa to Australia
Amazing content! Keep up the wonderful work and review and builds!!!
Wonder if they have a chassis for the SCX24 Gladiator?? 🤔
What about dluxfab they have a 24 chassis now
love this thing
one of my favorites so far i agree with the tires tho i don't think they suit the build👌💪
Great video Adam. Are you still stoked on your creeper motor ? Debating between Creeper and mini Komodo. Loving your content. Thank you.
Love the creeper motor. Have troubles sometimes with the pinion slipping on the motor shaft but thats it. Performance has been great.
I'm putting my kit together at the moment. I got the LGRP Creeper motor and the LGRP Billet Transmission, am I supposed to use the .5 Mod pinion for that combo? I'm assuming so but just checking because there are also a couple other pinions I received.... Btw, great video!
Thanks for watching. I’ve always used the mod 3 with my LGRP transmissions
Where can I get those upper link mounts? My axle kits didn't come with them, and neither did the kit. Can't find them on their site.
Man, them some chonky frame rails! A bit puzzled by the shock towers. Why go plastic, and have all the extra screws when they could be just part of the alum. frame design?
Aluminum options are available as an upgrade. $99 for the kit is the cost of entry, then it goes up from there as you add aluminum parts
@@CapeCrawlers Nice! I actually meant the towers as one piece with the frame rails. Cut out as part of the frame as one piece. But I see the towers can be moved fore and aft so that's better having them separate. 👍
Will any of the truck bodies work with this chassis? Would be cool to build a power wagon scx24 comp
Possibly. It works with the X factor body which is the same dimensions as the gladiator body. I think the power wagon is similar sized
looks like the tires are just too stiff maybe try cutting the foams thinner and keep them stiff but they still will conform like look at 25 mins in when you grab the rock with your right front tire there is no conforming its literally barely touching on one lug and the tires wont compress maybe even try foamless and see if you lose much on sidehill
Make a video on the mofo 1.8" wheels! I have not seen much on them and they look interesting
Yesss! Are you going to get the x-factor when it becomes available again?
Probably. I love their kits!
Precision quality 👌
I notice you do your shocks upside down. Is there a reason for that? Just started watching your channel about a month ago
I find they bind less if run upside down
Really like your content keep up the great work Adam!
Nice chassis!...now i gotta get one...lol
hi can the injora metal gearbox fit the furitek brushless motor? Kokomo motor
Great video as always.
So how does this compare to the Cheat Code ? I am hesitating with the Cheatcode because of the printed skid, this might break or when rebuilding often ruin screw threads in the soft plastic - and since i am in europe i can't easily order another. Only reason keeping me away from it to be honest.
I wouldnt hesitate to buy the cheat code if I were you. It is so well made and that skid is beefy! The LGRP kit is right up there with the cheat code in my opinion. I need to sort out my tire setup and link positions and then I think it will be on par with my cheat code builds.
does the gladiator body work on this chassis? or do i need to get the r factor conversion for it to work?
It should work without the r factor kit. May take some slight trimming but it should be close right out of the box
I guess all that leaves is a hard park and j.e.c. to do
So there website say 160 wb that is basically gladiator wheelbase correct ? Been debating this or a mazz any input is greatly appreciated trying to run with a custom hardbody
Thats right. Gladiator is 155, so the LGRP wheelbase is right there.
@CapeCrawlers does it seem like much of a upgrade from stock and worth the money was debating this cause the mazz is always sold out
I stripped a screw in one of the LGRP axiasl... Im trying to figure out how I can get that screw out without causing anymore damage... Any suggestions? THX
Try a torx bit
Need more info! :D Stripped what? The hex head? The thread of the screw? The tread in the parts? Is the part plastic or metal?
Gladiator rear links would solve that problem
I love everything about it but for that price, there should be no issues with the body being mounted, let alone any issues 😂
Trank you for the cool content
Wooow it super cool rc
How good are the printed parts? It looks fragile.
Shock towers and sliders are solid. Supporting components are a little fragile. The bumper would be solid with the optional cross brace
@@CapeCrawlers Good to know. So far, I've stayed away from anything printed.
Judge Springs
Brett Mission
Well shoot I just realized I have my frame rails inside out
That's a really cool little kit. The 3d parts look like they're SLS prints. High quality looking. Would FCX24 axles bolt in there? That would be a nice combo.
I noticed that too. I'm really not a fan of the look of printed parts. The lines on just about all them look like crap, to me. And way to much sanding to get them smooth. These almost look injection molded and media tumbled.
Nice!
Kshlerin Brooks
Ullrich Mountain
Towne Springs
Langosh Summit
Tillman Garden
I don't think the Styrofoam is a good benchmark for performance. A lot of tires/rigs don't do well on it, because of the low-grip & how Styrofoam is crumbly. I think you should use an outdoor course for a new testing/benchmark for rigs. Since 99% of comps & people go out on the rocks to begin with.
Yeah, have to agree. I really think painted foam and plaster are big mistakes. Cheap and easy. But cheaper and almost as easy, but way better is a www.youtube.com/@REACTIVETERRAIN method. So much more durable and realistic. For terrain and indoor course building, they're the ultimate go to. WAY under viewed and sub'd to for sure!
Farrell Loop
Pink Plaza
Hirthe Gateway
Conroy Rapid
Bogisich Ridge
Geraldine Mountain
Leilani Ridges
Craig Prairie
Rempel Falls
Cronin Roads
Betty Islands
Rey Squares
Schoen Pike
Volkman Lock
Stephania Ville
Valentin Estate
Jesse Shoals
Terry Court
Kendrick Summit
Lonie Haven
Luettgen Villages
Who comes there after watching short video of it 😅
Done.....lmao. yep i bought one.....
Connor Tunnel
Hills Loop
Estefania Parkways
Thiel Vista
Marvin Fords
Tavares Drive
Moen Route
Christa Pike
Renee Fall
Simonis Track
Koch Heights