Why Is My Chainsaw Cutting Uneven on a Curve?
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2021
- If your chainsaw won't cut straight, watch this video to find out why. James explains why your chainsaw is cutting on a curve. He'll take you through the main causes of this issue so you can get your chainsaw cutting straight again!
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in my experience, when it's cutting curved it's also pushing the chain into the side of the bar, result is the bar is getting hot.
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From experience working in forestry, there are two main reasons why you are cutting on a curve: 1) Pushing on the chainsaw (due to a blunt chain or poor posture) and 2) Shifting the position of your hand on the front handle as you cut.
Why is any single person nowadays using a file ? Get a powered sharpener and a proper bar dresser .
Thanks dude just looked at the underside of my bar I'm ashamed to say how crap it was 😮 flat and square now. Brilliant. I'm cutting square again without buying a new bar woohoo...
Good as it gets, the advice. However, chain saw sharpening and bar maintenance isn’t a high tech skill as he wants you to believe. A bit of practice and some practice is all that is necessary.
When I sharpen the chain, I check the bar rails with an engineers square. If needed I will put the bar on the table of the disc sander and sand it so both rails are the same height. Far more accurate than filing by hand.
The most common reason a chainsaw cuts crooked is a dull chain. Probably because the operator hit dirt or something other than wood. I keep old chains for cutting roots and other stuff that I know will ruin a chain.
Always cuts to sharpest side!!
Excellent video. I spent time running a saw for a living and bar warping was never mentioned as a potential cause of uneven cutting. This was made clear to me when my brand new chain for my saw immediately cut uneven.
Well explained, been using and sharpening chains forever, just ordered new bars and chains for my saws, many thanks for your input,
Brilliant James! I did get nervous watching you stroke the bar with your thumb. Bar Slivers are nasty!
When I was learning chainsaw maintenance as a student with the Forestry Commission we used vernier callipers to make sure all the teeth were the same length and then ran over the rakers with a depth gauge and flat file and tickled the bar taking any burrs or uneven wear off with a flat file, using a square to make sure they were flat and even as part of your weekly maintenance, notwithstanding your regular ‘in the woods sharpening’. Needless to say this is a bit of a ball ache and as an infrequent chainsaw user now this is rarely, if ever gets done. On another note, I have found that turning the chainsaw upside down for the opposite cut (if your vice is high enough) makes the sharpening position a bit less awkward. I actually sharpen mine on a Workmate with a couple of blocks to hold the bar and allow the chain to be pushed along. Being a shortarse this is much easier as my bench vice is a little on the high side for me.
also, even though the bar and chain might be in fine shape, it might be the wrong gauge chain, either incorrectly boxed, or the wrong size was purchased (or given to you), and therefore acting as though the guide bar rails were splayed out. Thanks for the video.
Great explanation and entertaining at the same time. You are a natural teacher. All the best.
Very informative video , James. Nothing worse than a poorly cutting chain.
Not sure if its been mentioned already but a really effective hack is to flip the bar when it's worn out on the bottom. If you're just bucking using the bottom of the bar you'll get another 50 percent life out of the bar. An old west coast logger taught me that and it works like a charm.
The drive links wear faster than the bar, yet the groove in the bar does wear. You can get a straighter cut, by squeezing / pinching the groove shut a bit, I use vice grips, inch by inch, till the drive links are as tight as possible. It's sort of a temp fix, sometimes lasts quite a while, even on old chains, sharpened evenly, but worn drive links, worn contact area on the chain , are just part of getting to the end of life for the chain. The bar needs to be ground properly too , to extend the life of it. After 10 or so hurricanes here, we( local tree guys) were clearing more and more trees around houses, hitting less and less nails, as the years went by. Cutters on the chain, were outlasting the bar, and drive links. A new chain, on an older , worn bar , will prob . cut good for a while . A new bar and old chain, will cut good for a while. These expensive items( and sprocket) do wear out and need replacing. Lots of variables involved, sorta gotta know a little history of the bar / chain combo sometimes. After a chain breaks twice( worn rivets and straps) I usually throw the chain away. But, I make a living with them, not much time to mess with worn out stuff.
Great vid, simple diagnosis, simple fix, love it