CHAINSAW HACK! fixing a saw that cuts crooked!
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- When a chainsaw cuts crooked there are a few things you can do to fix the problem. Lets take a look at a crooked cutting saw and make it better. Dave Whipple
Here a link to an Echo chainsaw like the one in this video.
amzn.to/2EXhSVB
Dave we are Echo Dealer we’d be glad to send you a bar and chain! No charge
Can you send me a sthil equivalent 661 free of charge ?
Dave great information: But word of advise as I have been cutting wood longer than you are old. I went for many years with no ear protection and now paying for it with deaf in one ear and 80% in the other. Please guys all wear ear protection NOW when loose it like me and it's gone. Keep up the good work.
Very good point Dennis. Thanks for taking a minute to comment about hearing protection. I actually have hearing loss in my right ear, probably from playing in a band or more likely cutting roofing metal with a skilsaw........the worst sound in the universe......so I totally agree with you.
Nice to see a decent comment on RUclips seems like all you see is negativity ... Good video, even better comment on the hearing protection
Fellow don't forget that ear protection. First time I use chainsaw (2 weeks ago) I didn't use any and went temporally partially deaf for day. Average chainsaw can produce about 100+ Db when the protection is required for noises over 80 db.
Dennis Daniels Great advice! Now when I hang out with my old buddies, we are shouting at each other most of the time. Huh? Maybe we should switch to speaking Canadian. Eh?
.
Perfect fit for my Echo CS-370, and the chain cuts very well ruclips.net/user/postUgkxBd8qUztQUCL8Rm1-aIig5ViBT2E_kO_6 . I had been using a Stihl chain that I had sharpened several times (sometimes at a shop, sometimes with my own electric chain sharpener), and there's no comparison -- the new chain cuts much better and holds its edge longer. We'll see how the new chain holds up when it needs sharpening, but for now I'm happy.
2:35 The geometry of the file’s fit into the tooth guarantees you’ll file the top. In fact, it’s impossible to NOT file it. NOT NEED TO PULL UP ON THE FILE. You can’t see the fresh metal since the bottom of the tooth points away from you, but I guarantee if you flip the saw around and take a look, it will be apparent. Don’t push down on the file; don’t pull up, just concentrate on the angle. I highly recommend a file holder with the stamped angles to validate you’re filing correctly, otherwise you’re just guessing and making subtle changes without knowing it. As a tooth gets filed, it gets lower, so if they aren’t all the same length (height) the ones that are longer will do more cutting, making the saw cut crooked.
Also, if the bar’s rails aren’t the same height, the chain will tilt towards the shorter side, resulting in a crooked cut.
This sounds like amazing advice. Thank you.
definetly agreee i was thinking the same thing when he was saying that. focus on the angle and the amount of tooth remaining
Yes finally someone mentioned pickup, upward pressure! It makes such a difference when you do it. Now I can say I can sharpen a chainsaw! Thankyou Dave!
Dave, that was a good sharpening lesson. I've been off grid 43 years, log cabin, wood only heat.
Now l can't see too well and am screwing up my chain.
I'm going out and measure each tooth as l sharpen.
Great insight about one side seeming more natural.
Thanks, Jim
It's not the size of the tooth that's the problem it's the angle of the tooth or its the bar, also flip your bar every time you sharpen your chain.
I have just spent a morning trying to sharpen my saw chain. And an afternoon online looking for answers to why it wasn't working. All crap answers until you and your "upward pressure". Like others, I never heard that before. Worked a treat. Thanks, Dave.
Right on Keith! Glad to know it helped you out. Thanks for the comment!
Finally! someone mentioned upward pressure, although I found out on my own. You should have shown the left and right cuts for comparison, it was hard to compare them. Thanks for the great info
Im a form believer in my echo saws i have 2 590 timber wolf saws im having the same problem with im a poor man an firewood is something i enjoy doing as long as my health holds up ! Thank you !
I could use a new bar an chain !
Hi Dave. I have an old dollar - Sachs saw that does exactly what you just showed me. I was thinking the bar was worn but I’ll sharpen the chain first. Great info. Thank you
Kevin
I watched ten guys do this on videos, all id them did it wrong! Thank God I found your video I thought I was just no good at this, i bought an echo 590 and when I went to sharpen it I thought I truly had failed art this until I watched your video, my timber wolf is cutting like a dream now! Thank you!
Glad to hear it !!! That might be my next saw, I've had my eye on a timber wolf for a while
Hi Dave. As a new subber I’ve been trolling thru your past posts. Came on this one and wasn’t gonna add my two cents but more I read, the more I cracked up at all the opinions. So here’s mine. I’ve been running saws on the ranch and in the woods as a logger for nearly 60 years. Ran several saw shops including 2 I owned. Was a tech rep for Jonsered in the 80’s and did service classes for saw dealers all over the PNW. I competed in timber show saw events pretty successfully as well. Your sharpening procedure is spot on. As far as cuts running off, there are several factors that can cause crooked cuts. Despite the “experts” that deny tooth length consistency as a factor, it is one. Other factors are bar rails that are uneven in height, worn bar rail gap width, chain raker height, worn chain drivers, cutter hook angles, blunt top plate angle, different top plate cross angles, and even the way an operator applies pressure in the cut. So, ya just gotta learn how to maintain and operate the entire system if you want to consistently have good straight cuts. It’s a skill akin to an art. Just my opinion. Everybody has one, just like we all have a “you-know-what”! 🤣. Keep em coming Dave. Gets folks thinking at the least.
Thanks MtnMan'47.
People either tell me this video was just what they needed..... or they tell me I'm an idiot. LOL When it comes to chainsaws people get fired up ( no pun intended)
Advise is spot on Mtn man and Bush Rad. I been using the lift technique when sharpening since I began cutting firewood back in the 70s. Think I was shown that by a logger from Minnesota. He had a vicious Jonesered 80, that I have owned since the mid 80s.
It has a snow machine pull handle on it, cause it will hurt you without it. Part of my collection now.
First time I’ve seen anyone mention the lift on utube.
Check each tooth for no reflected light from edge, use quality oil not used motor oil, square rails, adjust gap, and get to cutting.
@@standaffern6595 had to chuckle when I saw your reply to my three year old response 😝. Thanks for the confirmation! That “shiny edge” you mentioned is the base metal under the hard chrome plating that the cutters have. You are so correct, if you don’t file back to the chrome your “sharp” edge will turn real quick. Gotta have that chrome to have the cutting edge last. About that “80” hurting you: when I was a young buck back in “67, I was doing some falling outside Quesnel BC with a Homelite XP1000. Heck of a saw for its day, but weighed a ton and would nearly make you cry starting it in the morning at 10 below! Kicked like a mule no matter how hard you tried to grip that darn cord grip!😖🤣. Most loggers today cry if their saw doesn’t have de-comp and weighs more than 10 lbs. Oh well, they also have “funny rodeo’s 😖.
Ha Ha, you sound like a tough old codger! My topping saw weighs 10 lbs without fuel!
I bet you have biscuits and gravy everyday… before breakfast!!!
Ha Ha!
This is excellent information. I thought I knew how to sharpen a saw until I started using it almost daily. Nope, I wasn't doing it very good. Now though, I am way better at it. Practice makes perfect. Thanks for the tips!
Hey, CountryLifeTales ,Thanks for the comment. I appreciate it!
Very helpful, my saw was pretty much cutting on an angle today, this will help when I sharpen it tomorrow. Thanks Dave. I had not idea about the up motion either big tip!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Nobody ever mentioned upward pressure. It was explained as backward to me. The saw was new, chain never sharpened. Maybe I ran her into some dirt. Problems started when not clearing snow first. Water was preventing the oiling pad from working. Of course I stooped right away. NOT! Probably toasted a brand new bar. What? Snow and dark of night isn't ideal conditions. But I had shorts on. Lol
Nice job hand sharpening. I use a sharpening jig to keep the angles correct and adjust the file up enough
to file the top of the cutter. I hand sharpen only if I have to. Also I lightly grind my bars at 90 degrees
on a disc sander to keep the bar true. Frequent touching up of the teeth keeps the big chips flying.
Thanks Burt.
Thanks! Simple and great video. I did this unknowingly to my saw and started to wonder why it cuts crooked.
I know this video is a year old but advice is good no matter the age. I picked up and old old Homelite Super XL for $10 at a garage sale that needed a little work to get it to fire, new plug and gas filter. I think it had the original chain that had never been sharpened. I was debating getting a new one but I just wanted it for limbs and already cut firewood that needed some light work. Your video convinced me to work on the chain and now I have a great little light duty saw so I don’t have to haul out my Sthil every time!
I grew up using a Homelite and lots of people had these that didn’t know squat about tuning them or sharpening the chain so when they got dull they were left in the garage and gathered dust. I don’t think my saw has more than 20 hours run time. For $10 and the cost of a spark plug and tank filter I’ve given new life to a great little saw!
Thanks Larry! I have a video about building my first log cabin in Alaska 17 years ago......If you check it out you'll see I built it with an old Homelite super XL. You'll appreciate it having used that saw!
Good video, my neighbor gave me a little saw last fall that was doing exactly the same. An old friend and I discussed the exact same points you made. A little upward pressure while sharpening and how we sharpen each side a little differently due to how comfortable the angle is.
Awesome!!
great video Dave! My saw been doing that and i didn't know what was causing it. Thank you for the tips! will look the chain over close now. thanks again buddy! Tom n Rocky
thanks Tom
Great video mate has helped me see what I’m doing wrong hopefully will fix the crooked cutting
That’s probably best video I’ve come across explaining the teeth angles Thankyou maybe try and show some examples of finished teeth and bad ones for ref cheers pal
I actually just picked up two freebie echo's last week. They had carb problems, (bad varnished ethanol fuel). One was missing the chain and the other had this very same problem (in addition to 3 teeth being completely broken off). I just replaced the chain. They are both doing great now! Good stuff man.
Thanks HLP. Those little Echos are good saws!
Enjoyed your efforts here. Great advice "Bar" none.:)) pun...
"Saw" that one coming? Many in a "chain" of puns.
Hey guys, I read through all of the comments and I didn't see anyone mention what I think is the most common reason for why a chainsaw cuts crooked. So, here goes. Dull knives on one side. A dull knife will push away from the wood. So , if one side is a lot more dull than the other, it will cut towards the sharper side. Sharpen the side that the saw is cutting away from, and see what happens when you cut. And then, let me know if that helps.
Oh, by the way, I sharpen my chainsaws exclusively by hand with a file. I've never paid anyone else to sharpen my saws and I've never used a power sharpener. And I don't use a file guide.
Don't let your files get wet or dirty or rusty, and don't touch the cutting portion of the file. Salty sweat makes them rust. Don't back drag the file. That bends and/or breaks the cutting edges of the file. Lots more to say, but I'll stop for now.
Good points. I'm like you, I only use a file.
Thanks for posting this comment. I was looking for someone to explain this in a video and wasn’t having much luck
the information you gave is good, no arguments there, your instructions are clear and well received, it is not that I consider myself all knowing, this is just how I get one cutting straight... .. to add a few points I have learned.. when a saw cuts crooked, the first thing to check is the bar, the rails that the chain rides on can wear uneven the bar needs trued up or dressed as some call it. run a screwdriver blade through the groove and clean it out, then file the rails til they are even in height, peen the bar rails in slightly if the chain has a lot of slop from left to right, it needs a little but not enough that the chain near derails itself.. the teeth length is a perfectionist thing, but not really that important, the angle filed on the teeth set the cutter kerf, 30 degrees sets it wide and a bit rougher cut, 10 degrees is narrow, and some what of a finer grade cut. making log furniture or post and beam construction.... What you did made it work alot better, no doubt, chips were flying out good, keep on as you do, I liked your way of talking and explaining, fine job . you did really well for doing this in the field, I need a vice or I am lost..
Thanks Ben. I appreciate the comment and the tips.
sometimes you just have to learn something on your own because the same problem can have different factors.
this past spring I decided to true up all my chains on a grandberg precision grinder. I compared how the grinder was setting the teeth in length by using a micrometer on each side. I discovered that there was a slight difference cause by the inaccuracy of the sharpener. So I adjusted The sharpener for this and sharpened each tooth exactly the same length. I also used the grinder to set the raker depth.
I spent all day sharpening all my chains. When I went out to cut wood I couldn’t believe the hook I was getting and after all my work.
So Im convinced my problem doesn’t lie in the length of tooth.
I checked the raker depth with a handheld devise going over each one. although those handheld device seemingly would be less accurate than the grinder I was now cutting straight.
I think this just goes to show that different factors can cause the same result. Finding the problem is not always easy.
Im definitely going to get in the habit of flipping my bars in order to maintain even wear.
If your bar is too worn out, then nothing you do to the chain will help....sometimes you just need a new bar.
know this is an old video but its great. i just started having some trouble with one of my saws cutting crooked. appreciate the tip.
Dave, you are dead correct...i got a new stihl and it was cutting great, untill a buddy of mine came over and "sharpened it" and it started cutting crooked. after he left i saw what he did. teeth on one side were a lil bit shorter...thanks!
Great tip about that upward pressure , I heard of a lot of ways to file a saw but they left out the upward pressure . Great tips Thanks.!
Hey GmGarlo, thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. I didn't get it either, until I started making sure the underside of the cutting edge got that attention.
GmGarlo !! it is a great tip !! but to be completely honest if you have the right size file for the chain and the chain hasn't been screwed up previously then you shouldn't need to use any upwood pressure at all as the file should fit perfectly snug and touch the whole tooth perfect! !! and doing this technique can actually make it that you need to do it more and more each time as your slightly changing the the tooth surface to a different size !! but this is really nit picking here ! And the fact he is talking about a chain that has been completlely screw up makes these tips spot on !! this is a great informitive video and has lots of good tips !!! I personally would have just run it threw a sharper as im lucky enough to have one or just chuck the chain and get a new one as the cost of the chain would still make this saw a absolute bargain! !!!
With the correct file you need no pressure what so ever
A file guide does a lot to provide that "upward pressure". Also, if a number of "points" are missing on the teeth, it will cut crooked. Simplest thing is buy a new chain and grind the bar.
Thanks for the lessons here. If I had purchased this saw and found out it still had some life left in it I would probably get a new bar and chain just to give it some new life. Enjoy the saw!
*** Or a chain that has struck metal. Nail damage tends to effect 1 side of the chain and until the chain is corrected it will cut crooked. I have even had cuts try to spiral.(early learning curve)
I never try and field repair a chain. I'm just to old, 70yrs. and beat up, to struggle with it. I always carry several extra chains and if one gets damaged it is a quick change. Then I can address a few at a time on rainy or slow days back home.
Great lesson, explained result and well. Thx. You might have got a deal on the saw because the profits owner didn't know how to sharpen and gave it away. I would have tried a new chain and it would still be worth the price. Cheers
Those are very much like the echo 400. Great saws, got 2 on my truck.
Hi Dave....something you might give a try...set the saw between legs ...set the tip of the bar against something to prevent moving around .. you want to be directly above the saw ...which ever hand is not your dominate hand use your other hand on the end of the file ...you want to pull the file opposed to pushing because you will still be using the dominate hand using the less dominate hand measly as a guide ...for instance I'm right handed...so when I file with my left hand .. I will use my right on the end of the file to pull at a upward motion...while the handle is my left less dominate hand ...if your right handed then same principle only using the left to help guide ...enjoying your channel . Keep up the good work ..
Hi Dave thanks for the saw sharpening info, my saw ha been arguing with me wanted to go right all the time,,I'm off to the shop to hopefully fix things
Right on . Good luck with it.
You don't need upward pressure, if you file at 90 degrees to the tooth and have your desired angle, it will automatically sharpen the top. Plus if you pay attention to your chips, it will tell you what is wrong with the saw... also after sharpening, look at your chip size, once they start getting smaller, time to touch it up... at that time just a couple strokes on each tooth will bring it back... Don't let it get to the spitting sawdust stage... then you have a lot more sharpening to do...
👍👌
Dave you are sharp with that saw!
Thanks
Great job Dave! You are correct, I too find people do a better job sharpening one side of the chain than the other.
I tend to agree with the comments below about ear protection, and if I forget to wear mine my wife reminds me... funny how i can hear her over the chainsaw.
Anyway, one tip I find helpful in the bush when no vise is around to help hold the bar, cut a 2" to 3" inch deep cut in a large log like you had in your video. Place the bar in the cut, prop up the chainsaw handle with a short log, straddle the log and start filing away. Sometimes i get really fancy and use one of my small wedges in the between the bar and the 2" cut to hold it stable.
Anyway thanks for the video, stay safe eh!!
Great tips
What a great video. Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Thanks Mark, I'm glad you found some usable info in it!
Teeth all the same size does not matter. Wrong angles definatley matter! If you size the file for the chain pitch--you dont have to pullup
Do you do the 2°or3°bevel?
thanks Dave, that is exectly what my saw is doing & when I sharpen I think I am making most if not all of those mistakes, cheers
Home Dpoet used to sell Echos about 15 years ago or so, bought an Echo 3450 16" bar back in 2002 and that sqw still runs great! Getting hard to get the "Intenz" bars though, thats an internal adjuster within the bar itself.
Interesting....I don't know how this bar adjusts. They made a bar with the adjuster right in it huh? Thats something new. Do thy still make them?
The teeth are sharper on one side than the other is why it cuts crooked. Not the tooth length. 25 Years of cutting and got chains that have teeth all different lengths.
Agree. As long as the depth gauges are set on all the teeth and they are all equally sharp. it will cut straight as an arrow .
Yeah I have a 28 inch on my 272 and every tooth are all diff lengths and never cut weird always straight
Ots more angle than anything
Bet the bars unlevel
The only thing that will make it cut crooked is a bad bar.
great explanation, thank you and Dennis below, you are absolutely right. Fortunately I ALWAYS wear eye and ear protection! Thanks for the reminder!
Harvey Murphy gv
Great tips Rabbit! Nice job explaining that one should get an
edge on the underside of the top edge of the cutter tooth. TFS!
Well said TSP. I think you said it better in 1 sentence than I did in 1 minute of video. LOL
HELPED OUT A LOT I KEEP ALL OUR SAWS SHARP NOW AND DID NOTICE SOME OF OUR CHAINS HAD LONGER TEETH BUT AS LONG AS THEY WERE SHARP I DIDNT KNOW IT MADE A DIFFERENCE
THANKS
Right on! Thanks for the comment.
Nice tip on sharping: I pick up on the file also but have cut myself from the file slipping out, so use caution . Also push the chain away from the saw as you move to the next tooth so not the cut yourself on the sharp edge .
right on.
Forgive me if I'm stating some thing somebody else posted, but I have not read all comments posted. A friend said when all else fails to turn the bar over-upside down and reinstall to get more life and straighter cuts out of the bar. Thanks. Great videos. Oh yeah, I'm with the safety gear.
You should flip the bar often to get a even wear. I don't know a hard rule for this but I flip my bars when I change chains at the very least.
Bushradical thanks.
My understanding is that the length doesn't matter so much, as long as the raker for that tooth matches. What is more important is the sharpness. and that each raker matches each tooth, so that each tooth takes out the same amount of wood.
Thanks for the helpful video.
Mine is doing this but I sharpen both sides pretty evenly. I've had an issue with the chain loosening up and made me wonder if the oiler was having problems causing the chain to heat up and stretch. If there was an oil or lack there of. Thinking maybe it wore one side of the bar groove and threw it off. I could swap the bar and see if the chain still does it but if the chain is wore weird as well it may screw up my other bar.. I ended up buying 2 bar and chain sets and waiting for them to come in the mail. This is a weird situation because I've been cutting for years, sharpening saws with different methods and my cuts never drifted to my knowledge until now.
Upward pressure - something new for me to hear. Good info, thanks.
hanks Pavel.
good video. great explanation of what might be wrong and how to fix it.
I have a small Shindaiwa and have totally smashed it over many years. It is the best power tool that I have. Highly recommend it.
I've seen lots of Shindawas over the years but I've never owned one myself. Are they really that good? Ive heard they are pretty great , but again...no personal experience.
They weigh more than most others but they tough as nails. The Japanese know how to make small engines!
I built my first cabin with a super Xl homesite. I think it was about a 60ci saw....but it was the old housing and it weighed a ton. I spent all summer lugging that thing!
I'll check out a Shindawa next chance I get.
I have one of those old blue homelite super xl's its in good shape too.
Check your bar also. Sometimes your bar isnt level doesn't matter how much you sharpen it it will still cut crooked.
You are so right scrapr
a few things I noticed... chain in the bar was rocking in the bars groove side to side. Either the wrong chain driver width, or the bar is wore badly. Also when filing, your chainbrake should be on, or chain tightened a bit more so it doesn’t lift when filing. Tough to get angles correct when the cutters are moving willynilly when filing. And always lifting on file when sharpening will leave you without the correct hook in the cutters profile...the correct raker depth is critical, especially when you have some teeth shorter than others, a raker gauge will help each individual tooth’s raker depth. (important that each tooth is chipping out the same amount of material, on both sides of the chain...otherwise you will cut curveballs). Filing away long teeth to “even out” the chain on both sides is less important than proper raker depth....as long as your cutters are all sharp. sharpen the teeth that are damaged, check your raker depth for that tooth....don’t file away a long cutter if its not damaged...you just make yourself more work, and shorten the useful life of your chain. Your filing technique, frankly, needs a lot of help. 🤷🏻♂️
Subscribing for sure from one simple no nonsense video. You rock Dave!
Thanks for sharing Dave . When the saw first bit into the log after sharpening , you can see the the chips flying out the back . I knew the chain was sharp . ATB Ken . 🇨🇦
Yeah, it was a huge improvement. There was one tooth missing a cunk out of the back of the tooth....any idea how someone would do that?
Sorry Dave , I have know idea other than abuse . The previous owner did not take enough time to learn how to sharpen a chain . It only takes a couple strokes of the file to keep the cutters sharp . Tension on the chain is important . Tension the chain properly when it is cold , use the saw , the chain will heat up and stretch . Retension and continue to work . After the work is done , loosen the bar . When the chain cools it will pull the bar in . ATB Ken . 🇨🇦
Tooth damage could be from running the chain into the ground when bucking rounds or even hitting rocks/gravel embedded in the bark if the log was skidded. Worse yet, the saw could have been used on other things besides firewood/trees - like demolition in which case there are plenty of metal hazards like nails too.
Did a great job like how you did it in the woods thank you
Thanks
I have a hand held 12 volt grinder. Like a dremel tool from Northern Tool. Sharpens chains extremely well.
My truck is never far away to get power.
No dominant hand problems.
I've never tried one but I know people that like them.
Bushradical Good for a quick field sharp. I cut a lot of Cedar, Junipers and Mesquite. Guaranteed to dull.
Thanks brother, good advice! appreciated. Im not a logger lol just cleaning up my place and the chainsaw was cutting a bit sideways and smoking. Gonna check the chain teeth and the bar. Thank you again!
you bet, thanks for the comment!
Nice job explaining causes
Very good explained! Thanks!
Thanks
length of teeth means absolutely nothing. you can have teeth twice as long as others on the same side or on the opposite side and it wont matter at all. So long as all of the teeth are sharp, with a good gullet, and proper depth gauges.
Yeah what Jon said
A simple guide attached to the file with angle marks and proper depth is my preferred method
No disrespect because you are on the right track and if it works for you keep on keepin on.... but as someone else commented watch Buckin Billy Ray on this subject.
I didn't know about the up motion or had put the thought in the importance of the bar.
The info on wearing ear protection cannot be emphosised enough. I have same problem from saw noise.
I probably should have worn ear protection during this short video. I have less than perfect hearing and I try to always wear ear plugs....that said, I did NOT have any on in this video shoot and its a bad example
Wha? Wha? 🤣
I guess people are in love with their chainsaws and also love to work with them, bcs this video is your most watched by a loooong shot!! Good info BTW. Keep the good work, eh!!
Its a video a broad group of people can benefit from...Everyone has a chainsaw, so its a video that gets watched a lot.
Thanks for the tip. I must have been really spaced last time I sharpened. Got one of those fancy sharpening bars with guides instead of just doing it the old school way.
The Stihl one is really good
Thanks. Exactly the information I needed.
Great advice !! Hey are those the new steel toe slippers I’ve heard so much about ?? LMAO 😂
Yes they are! LOL
@@Bushradical Never heard of them. Who makes them or where can a guy order a pair? I wear Mocs year round while lounging, would love a pair fit to work in.
Dave, I wish you'd shown the difference in the chips made from the dull vs the sharp chain. You can tell a lot from what's coming out from the cut.
We call it chips vs saw dust.
Nice video, thanks for the info! I noticed this action when I first started using a chainsaw, now I get big chips flying out!
Thanks for the interest and for checking out my channel. Glad your saw is doing better!
I have that exact same saw. Except mine is a Ryobi. I bought a Stihl. Love it.
Husqvarna makes a very nice combo file guide / depth gauge tool for both .325 and .375 (3/8) pitch chain. way more superior and accurate than filing with just the file. Much greater consistency in the sharpening process.
I never have used a jig of any kind...not that I have any thing against it, I just never owned one. But I think I know the tool your talking about. You say you've had really good luck with it? I'll try to locate one and give it a shot.
Yes it works well, the silver or aluminum colored one is for .325 pitch chain, the blue anodized one is for 3/8 pitch chain. Although I have several chains on hand, I like it, because on emergency service calls it helps reduce down time maintaining chains after I use my last spare chain at times.
Yeah we use those when I worked in the forrestry. Made touching up the saw during refill stops fast, easy and reduces the chance of cutting wrong.
Bushradical, Sthil has them also, and I agree, I think it makes it a little more accurate and faster than just the file alone. Not really any more space as the file is clamped in and your only adding about 1" or so more width .
New to your channel! You are very well spoken and easy to understand. Great tips as well!!
Thanks Joe! Hope you enjoy the channel.
Nice info, Dave..super nice dog too!
Great tip Dave, thanks alot!
The most common reason for a chainsaw to cut crooked is not the difference between the length of the cutters. It is a worn bar. The groove where the chain sits is not at 90 degrees to the side of the bar. If you correct this then a chain with different size teeth will cut straight.
It is not the length of the tooth that causes a saw to cut crooked. It is the hight of the raker for that specific tooth that causes it to cut crooked. On a short tooth you must cut the raker down to match that tooth.
My rule is,
If the chain is DULL go the 10 route. 10 swipes , spin the file as you sharpen.
Half dull ,go by fives.
5 swipes.
The spin gives you that lift.
On all teeth.
Makes it equal.
Touch and rake your thumb over it gently. If the tooth grabs u. It's sharp.
It's like anything else, practice, practice, practice
Great comment... And I thought I was the only one doing this! Been rotating the rat file as I push for the last 45 years now... :-) I rarely if ever go 10 times, I never let it get that dull in the 1st place. Typically, 2 or 3 passes does the trick & not to forget those rakers to get that nice chip.
I'm recently trying to glean anything I might not know, and one thing consistently missing is to flip your bar over each time you sharpen.
Thats always a good idea, but I must admit, I dont do it every time
that’s overkill. flip the bar every third or fouth sharpening. The bar in this video needs to be refaced, or replaced. Did you see the slop, side to side rocking of the drivers when he was filing? Could be the wrong width chain for this bar.....too narrow drivers for the bar.
You don't have to flip the bar every time you file. That's nonsense and a waste of time.
I bought the same saw it’s a good saw and I’m having the same problem a new chain runs great but when it has been sharpened a couple of times it runs at a angle it could be me sharpening it I started using a guide it helped
If it has the stock bar you might want to try a new one. Mine wore out pretty quick ( I have 2 of these saws now, the other one had a stock bar)
Bushradical thanks I’ll try replacing the bar I just hate a saw that cuts at a angle I split my own wood with a wood mall and it drives me crazy trying to keep them standing thanks again for the info
Not only are the teeth not sharpened the same but the bar always needs work
Yo do not need to sharpen each tooth the same! A myth!!
@@eroomjennings it helps obviously because the teeth ar higher when longer and they will cut deeper than a short and more shallow cutting tooth.
@@eroomjennings it does make a difference.
I must admit that this is one of my few "lazy points". If I buy a used saw, unless it's a *VERY* new looking chain, I will without hesitation purchase a new chain and often bar. I just can't be bothered to attempt to fix the last guys mistakes.
WHY NOT TRY IT FIRST? 😂 MAYBE THE “LAST GUY” JUST HAD IT SHARPENED/TUNED!!
Thanks for the fix!
Thanks, the advice about upward pressure makes sense. It is something I didn;t know. Stay well. JoeZ
Thanks Joe Z.
I noticed when you were filing the left hand cutters that some of the right hand cutters were worn behind the cutting edge. This 2-3mm should be removed, and I find the quickest way is with the dreaded grinding machine, cos 72 teeth by 2mm is an awful lot of hand filing. Hope you get a new full chisel chain soon... Thanks for the video.
Thanks
i have a 266 husky with a 36 inch bar, i don't need to bend over cutting tiny logs like that, when you get as old as me,thats is a big thing, the old creaky back starts to smart after a few minutes of what you were doing. its true a chain can cut crooked, my experience though is a bar that has lost its true is the biggest reason, a flat file re-true is the answer, or flip the bar if you haven't already, it can be done at home with a flat file if you good. likely you already knew that. good luck
thanks
That's an awfully bar on a small saw. Can't have much power.
Twas gr8 to watch. I'm gonna do just that bcuz i am experiencing the same problem with my chainsaw, and i was even thinking of throwing it away lol
good luck
What about new chain and new guide bar that cuts crooked? thats the second one i bought, previous ones was also new. Could it be caused by chaisaw itself?
ditto that. two new bars/chains, exact same issue
Excellent explanation
I love your steel toed moccasins!
haha
cheers!
They're actually slippers from walmart of all things. I was looking for a slip on shoe with a rubber bottom and they were $14 ! I wear these things everywhere!
Bryce Craig
Okay… great stuff. Dave. but if the cutters are longer on one side than the other side that should pull more wood, correct? But if that's the case, mine performs the opposite! Can anyone give me more information about what's going on here? thanks.
I work for a tree service company and you don’t throw new chains on when dull or bring them to a shop, you do it by hand and resharpen again and again until you start snapping teeth. Everything in the video is sound advice.
Thanks Peter. Be careful out there. Tree service work is like crab fishing on the Behring sea!!! Dangerous stuff
Hi from n.z. yeah echo makes the Honda step through equivalent reliability saw. My old boss had 1 running without a filter and it out last a Stihl neglecting it as he didn't understand maintenance.
Nice!
Absolutely most common reason a saw cuts crooked is simply uneven SHARPNESS or rakers are higher on one side.
Make the teeth all about the same sharpness and the rakers at the same height (related to the relative tooth), saw will cut straight unless you have a bar issue.
Generally- tooth LENGTH is not particularly important.
Good info! Nice Collie Dog!
Thanks !