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Much appreciated and helpful. When my Stihl chainsaw runs it has very hot exhaust and even the plastic housing is burned. I have to wear gloves because the exhaust is so hot it burns my fingers. Any ideas?
I bought my first Husqvarna 61 new, 40 years ago, cutting 3 - 6 cords of wood with it every year, since. It is still my Number One saw, but I've only had it back to the shop once, and that was the first winter, when the plastic worm gear driving the oil pump stripped out because I didn't know about winter-weight bar oil. I also learned that on that saw there are three different settings for the amount of oil delivered to the bar. You want the bar oil reservoir to have just a little oil left in it when the gas tank runs empty. I watched this video primarily because all three of my saws leak oil after putting them away. I will be checking them carefully, as noted, but I think my best bet for keeping the floor clean will be to invest in some chainsaw cases. Thanks -- you've saved me a lot of time looking for the cause of a problem that probably doesn't exist. When I bought my first saw, I had never even run a chainsaw before. After the crusty, older guy who ran the one-man shop showed me how to prep and start it, how to adjust the chain, and told me to read the manual for safety instructions, I asked him if there was any other wisdom he could impart to a new chainsaw owner. He paused for a second, looking off into the distance over my shoulder, then refocused and said "Don't ever loan it out, and keep it out of sight." Wisest advice, ever.
I was working on John Deere G110 riding mower. It was dying every time mower deck engaged. I finally saw seat interlock was unplugged while filling gas tank. RIFLMFAO!😮
I was told at the Husqvarna dealership that, when I am done using my saw put the saw down with the refill caps facing up and crack them loose and leave them like that during storage. He said reason being with temperature changes, if the caps are tight the gas tank and bar oil tank will build pressure and push the oil past the oiler. I've done what he instructed 2 years ago and so far no bar oil has leaked out.
Great comment, and that does work, unless the saw is stored in a case, or on a shelf? I usually run the saw low on gas and bar oil, before finishing up a job, and shutting the saw off. I DO recommend cleaning the junk out of the clutch cover area, as ‘Chickanic’ mentioned in this video. Stay safe and Healthy! 👍✌🏻
bought a Husky, it didn't have the scabbard with it as advertised. They told me to buy it. Returned it for the Echo, no regrets great chainsaw. If they won't honor a cheap plastic scabbard what makes you think they will honor something important?
Hello First of all I would like to thank you for your videos. I never knew too much about small engines until I start watching your videos which is very educational for me. I do appreciate your time and your effort and I know it's a lot of effort to make the videos and edit learned a lot like I said. And I think it's very cool that a young lady is as knowledgeable as you are I 🎉heard it what you're videos that you've been doing this for about ten fifteen years and something like that which is Great And you're doing this in a pretty much. A man's trade with your husband that is just wonderful. Phone so I will definitely keep on watching the different videos again. I wan to thank you very much.❤😊
Clever! I learned so much. Thanks from Sweden! I pass Husqvarna town a few times a year and it reminds me of the great mechanical history and tradition that comes from there. Bikes, motorbikes, guns, gardening and agricultural machines and chainsaws and more.
They all leak, even new, but more as they age (like us...). I always crack open the oil cap when stored. This way, no pressure build-up caused by temperature changes. It is what causes most of the leaks when stored. It will cut by 75% the oil leaking. Unless there is an issue, then you have to fix it. Love your videos. Thanks a lot for all the work you put in to teach us how to repair our small engines.
I love watching a professional analyze problems of whatever they are proficient at. Chickanic really knows what to look for without wasting a ton of time. Great video. Thanks.
Thanks for the info. It's always good to watch someone have an issue, thinks of a theory, does what's needed to test the theory, checks the results and formulates a solution. I love watching people troubleshoot stuff.
Remember, the oil pump fills the bar with oil, which then goes into the chain as it travels through the channel in the bar. When the saw stops the bar is full of oil and gravity takes it all out onto the floor over time. All saws will mark their spot simply because of the design of the system, not necessarily a leak.
I bought a Craftsman 20 inch and it puts out a good amount of oil on the bar but hardly any reservoir leakage... I like it!! Starts on one pull! I keep mine inside where TISS WARM all winter...
Excellent video, thanks! I’ve noticed that when I clean under the bar cover and within the bar groves before storing the saw, I end up with much less bar oil under the saw later. From your video I realized that my habits were eliminating the excess oil from draining down from the bar cover, chain, and bar. I’ve also noticed that spring warmer temps will allow winter grade bar oil (lower viscosity) to make a bigger floor mess than summer grade bar oil. Once I swap to the higher viscosity summer grade bar oil, I get less of a puddle.
One tip from an old , experienced tech (since 1983) - Quite dangerous to run that husqvarna with outboard clutch without a chain and side cover on it - not common but I have had it happen: - You rev it up, and then let it idle , and/or when you shut it off, the clutch spins itself loose, spins off the crank and goes for a ride all by itself (after first hitting my steel toe boots, which saved me from an E.R. trip) and ran across the shop floor, scratching up the paint job on a brand new mower being assembled and barely missed the tech working on it, left a nice dent in the concrete block wall when it stopped. After having that or similar happen 3 times (twice on Husqvarna, once on a Stihl) I just never run them without clutch cover in place any more.. I like my toes where they are!
@@stihlvarna Momentum tightens it when the saw runs and revs up. (from clutch side, saw is turning clockwise, thus mass of clutch tends to tighten clutch as saw revs up or is under load from the chain & bar) . However, without bar and chain, no load, full RPM as the saw idles down, the momentum of the clutch wants to continue turning clockwise, while the crankshaft turns slower than the clutch (or stops on shutdown) so the clutch loosens itself and then spins off. Think about it. :)
I'm so glad to have watched this video and read some of the comments. Chainsaws leaking oil have been a great frustration for me, and it's comforting to know that it's a common problem for everyone. Now I've learned that there's a couple of things I can do to check/minimize the problem.
Hi, Great effort on the leaks. It’s all about the maintenance that the saw receives. Most people as you know do none! I blow the saw out and air filter after every use then sharpen the chain clamping the bar in a vise and marking the starting point. It goes along way to remove the bar and chain and clean the groove of the bar removing the wood dust with a hacksaw blade. This is one of the reasons the bar heats up as the dust prevents oil to the bar. In the winter I store the saw inside and use winter bar and chain oil to make it flow easier. I also run all my saws on Swift ultra 94 unleaded Av gas. I have a Stihl 026 and MS-280 that have served me well over 25 years now. Keep up the great videos!
I do most if not all repairs on my vehicles but always had a hard time with my small engine garden equipment. Your videos and commentary are amazingly helpful. I have a chainsaw that leaks and can't wait to diag the issue. Thank you Chickanic!
Concur. Before the space age I could fix almost anything on a car, but a motorcycle slays me. Nowadays I lift the hood and plastic stuff starts breaking.
I love this channel, every town needs a technician like you. By the way I hang all my chainsaws (4 Sthils) on the wall bar down and have no leaking problems. Mabe coincidence Mabe not. Thx for being so informative and by all means keep it up. 😊
having been a mechanic for motorcycles, cars small engines etc professionally and as a hobby.... its amazing what you forget. I was amazed how accurate your videos and professional. You are by far the best youtube small engine professional out there. alright rediscovered a few things thanks to your logical and accurate videos. Ive repaired over a dozen various models as favors for neighbors and several were much simpler to do after your videos. Thank you. My wife is thrilled I have such support for you. You deserve it.'
No, I am glad you made this video. I have a Husquavarna 575 and it seeps oil when stored. I bet when I shine a light into my oil chamber that is the problemo. No maintenance video is too small to do when you think about over 200,000 subscribers....there's a good bunch of us who do lots of construction and repairs but don't know or analyze everything all the time. Thanks.
Love your posts. My Grandson and I have repaired 2 pushmowers from troubleshooting from a video. We enjoy watching your advice on weedeaters,blower engines too. Thank You Chickanic.
Something to remember, after running a saw, open the oil reservoir cap to relieve tank pressure. Do not fill it up until right before use. Relieving the pressure the cap can reduce oil leakage
@@jimgoinham6878 most oil caps only have a 1 way vent, they let air in as oil gets used, but won't let air out so as the saw warms and cools in the air when stored the valve makes the tank act like a pump, oil can only escape one way, thru the pump and onto the bar. Fuel caps are the same. If they had free vents allowing air in both directions s they would leak as soon as you inverted the saw.
After constantly finding an oil mess in the bottom of my storage case I discovered that by opening the oil cap to relieve pressure did the trick for me. I do put the cap back on for storage but I also use clothes under the Stihl’s motor to soak up any residual oil.
Thanks for posting. My Stihl MS180 used to drain bar oil completely out of tank after use. I replaced oil line and all good now. Still leaks some. They all do after usage. Nature of the Beast, I guess. Loosening cap ,to relieve pressure in oil tank, was tried but never proved useful.
Just watched your video on hard to start chainsaws. I own a Stihl MS290 that I bought new 12 years ago. I am that person that could never start it. I thought I was doing something wrong, so I brought it to my dealer, who basically started it in front of me, while I took notes. I then came across your video, which gave me confidence not to give up on it. Following your tips, and adding just two more very important steps, I can now start my STIHL every time I need it. STEP 1 After you pull it twice, move the CHOKE TO WARM, or up one notch, from full choke. What I found this does, is drastically reduces the compression on all your future pulls. So you don't end pulling your arm out of its socket trying to pull the rope. STEP 2 It kept stalling on me right after it started, so I started it with the chain brake off. Sorry Safety Guys, but it works. I can now rev it up as soon as it starts. You rock woman!
I gave up on my stihl. Sounds like same problem. One time I could use it others I couldn't. It would start and idle but due after. I bought a husky 450 and it is reliable
Good to see an informative video without a long drawn out amount of useless stuff. Also glad to see her place her foot in the handle to start the saw. I see a lot of people swing the saw around when starting them and not warming the saw up before using them. I had problems with the cap on my oil reservoir leaking, now I know about lossening the cap to relieve pressure from the comments. Not concerned about clutch comments or how to pour bar oil. But, cut off jeans on an attractive woman, that's great. Thanks for pointing out burned bar, that helps users know it's maintenance time before damaging saw.
Much good information on your channel. I grew up on a large farm and used a chainsaw since I could hold one. Your 2-cycle engine information is truly outstanding, thank you so much for sharing.
I have been running chainsaws since the mid 1970s. Mc Cs, Stihl, Poulan. I have used bar oil, old fryer oil, mineral oil and used motor oil with no leaking problems. This lady is spot on when she says keep it clean and in good working order. My go to saw is a Stihl 034 from the late 80s. Keep it clean and sharp, do not use ethanol fuel and any 2 cycle mix oil has worked great. I like the blue stuff best! Great video.
Neither of those saws were cleaned, wiped off maybe, definitely not cleaned. In our orchards we mainly use pole saws occasionally chainsaws, the pole-saws do the same leaky-leak. Especially if they have not been cleaned properly after use. I tend to go OCD with my pole-saw. I make sure their is no debris around the oil and fuel caps before I open to refill. Debris inside can clog up tanks and is a nightmare to unclog and clean out. I use compressed air to the majority off the outside, remove cover, bar and chain and repeat underneath the cover. I scrape out the rails with an old credit card and use a small pick to clean out the oiler holes then use ca again down the rails to the spinner and listen to it sing. Use pick around sprocket and all nooks and crannies as needed before replacing bar and chain. Wipe off any excess residue with paper towels as I go. Some complain that I go overboard but my saw makes less trips to the repair shop than anyone else’s and mine is the oldest saw of the bunch.
Why not use a good point is the type of borrow all you're using if you're using a cheap type of bar oil it's going to run the heck out of the the system compared to a good bar oil that's going to be a lot thicker which isn't going to run out of the system
I just used my Poulan the other day. After I was done, I cleaned it up with an air gun, drained the gas, oil and ran what gas was in the carb out. Even gave the chain a little sharpen with my file. It will be ready to go for next time. Usually when a big limb falls off the tree like what I dug it out for.
First time I stumbled onto you. THANK YOU for speaking clear and loud. I have an old 440 Stihl. I was Glad to see that yours seemed to start quicker then your new saw. Made me smile
Learned so much here! I've been getting into troubleshooting chainsaws more lately. Great way at explaining things without ramble. Thanks from a fellow female chainsaw lover!
If you think about it, she actually gets it wrong. If you fill a 5 gallon bucket with water, and make sure to spray water all over the outside of the bucket, is the water around the bucket on the ground from a leaky bucket? When you buck wood, the saw dust takes away the excess oil. By running the saws without cutting wood, she loaded up the chain and sprocket area with huge amounts of oil, that oil will slowly run off the saw creating an oil slick. She needs to redo this video and warm the saws up by cutting wood and then shut the saw off promptly. Every self oiling saw ever made will "Leak" when tested like she tested these saws.
Thank you for doing this video! I was trimming some limbs for a neighbor recently and had oil getting slung off of the flywheel. I had even replaced the oiler in this saw last year. Now I know where to start looking to find the problem. Great video!
Many years ago now I stopped using regular bar oil because it's high viscosity regular manual transmission gear box oil. It's to thick and stresses the oil pumps to the point where the tight tolerances are lost and the oil simply leaks though the pump. So I started using Castrol 10 40 diesel engine oil and never had a problem since. It pumps quicker because it's much lower viscosity, sprays over your chain teeth and lubricates them as they cut and the chain stays sharp longer. Another huge plus with diesel motor oil is that it contains Zinc, an excellent high pressure lubricant. The only slight minus is that yes, you will use slightly more oil, but I buy my oil in bulk which offsets that cost easily. I run four Stihl commercial chainsaws. None of them leak bar oil at all. Usually at the end of a cutting session I will rip a large round. The longer shavings clean out the accumulated crap. One other suggestion. NEVER EVER use used motor oil. It will eat away your magnesium castings because its acidic and full of nasty pollutants that will eat your oil pump. Stilhl make the best chain bar pumps by far. Husqvarna and the rest are crap.
I enjoy this channel, i am new in this game and bought a Ryobi62 cc 20in and discovered it is hard to start after i looked at the video ,why do your chainsaw don't start ,i am glad to say i went through your comments and apply them . After struggling eventually success, but then i came across the oil leak situation. Iam in bed now watched your video on leaks tommorow is Sunday . On Monday i will set a another goal. Thanks i like you video's
Bought a brand new Husqvarna last fall and never used it.This spring the bottom of the case was just full. Thanks to you and the comments ive learned where to look and how to store. Thank you.
Great video---thanks for the tips! And your others as well----amazing how "simple" small engines can be so stubborn and how the fix is sometimes under your nose and easy.
mine leaks 'cause its a 35 year old stihl 026. and my 028 is even older. and they live on a commercial christmas tree farm, plus i heat with wood. cant kill'em. and FYI, they aren't leaking. they are marking their territory. and they make cases? :P love your vids keep'em coming.
I got a 026 32 years ago.i lived in a old farm house that all it had for heat was a wood stove.i cut so much wood with that saw and it never gave me a problem.still using it today.
Thank you so much for your detailed explanation of how the oiling system works I've got a 44 Magnum and a little 200, or something like that, and was concerned about the oil puddle after use. Clearly it's normal residue oozing off. AND, as a guy, it's an absolute pleasure to watch and listen to an attractive woman explaining this in such an articulate way.
Recently bought a new chain saw and while waiting on my wife to shop I actually read my manual. This particular manufacturer said to remove the bar oil when storing chain saw. Hummm I never knew that was suggested by a manufacturer before. Actually not sure I have ever read a chain saw manual before so theres that. Great video and you are fantastic.
I have a 455 husky. Wondering why it wasn’t getting any oil. And now I might know why. Thanks to this video. Thanks so much for making these informative educational videos. You rock.
This is an excellent video. I think your experiment was warranted. I like the control and test variables. You sure taught me a lot. The only way I can think of stopping bar oil leak if you are storing for a bit is to drain the oil reservoir.
My experience has been that bar oil leaking these excessive amounts is a recent phenomenon. This was not a problem when I earned my living for many years with the saws of that vintage. Husqvarna and Jonsered, both. My new saws all leak, very annoying.
Chickanic, I enjoyed your well done and informative video. As a distributor service manager for Husqvarna chain saws for 12 years in the late 70's and 80's, oil leaks! I am concerned about your safety, sandals and no eye or ear protection. Yes, the clutch can and will come off (don't ask) when you let off the gas without the clutch cover on. BE SAFE!
I had just rebuilt a 357xp and started it up in the garage without the clutch cover on. I blipped the throttle a few times and the clutch popped off and tore out of the garage across the driveway and onto the flowerbeds. I really don't remember ever laughing that hard before.
@@joesantora8855 That's funny, lucky it left the shop. I had one run across the floor, up the wall and across the ceiling back at me like a rabid squirrel.
Thank you for pronouncing Husky correctly! Instant fan! Great job with investigative diagnosis, and making a video on a question we all have! Pushing on soft rubber grommets with a flat screw driver, or yanking with needle nose, is a good way to tear it. A wood dowel works nice for pushing into place, and you can carve or sand it into the shape you need. Also, if you turn the oil can over, it doesn't glug as you are filling.
Thanks SO MUCH for teaching me the reasons that ALL chainsaws leak bar oil!! Your experiments TRULY eye-opening and truly appreciate that God put you on the earth to teach us and hope you love what you do! You have a Ph. D. in chainsaws!! Thanks so much again!!
Again, another great video, full of useful information. (As usual. 😊) I’ve been using chainsaws for 32 years now and have learnt a lot during this time. Your informative videos are helping me even more, not just with chainsaws but all of my other equipment that use these 2 & 4 stroke engines. You have great knowledge on these engines and it is, undoubtedly greatly appreciated by all that watch your videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and so many helpful tips. Watching from Australia. 😊👍👍🦘🇦🇺🦘
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. I usually take anything I have with small engines to a repair shop, but I have a feeling I'm going to learn a few things from your videos. I will be watching your video on canned fuels next, as I recently discovered the benefits of using non-ethanol gas in my chain saw, weed eater, chipper, and pressure washer.
Search your area for a gas station with a non-ethanol pump. They won't have a sign. Probably 50 - 90 cents more a gallon but also probably 89 octane or more and very worth it. Especially for last engine use in Fall. If an online search doesn't find it, ask possible users like Harley riders, professional grass mower guys if they know where.
When filling the chain-oil reservoir, rotate the bottle so that the spout is on top. The oil will come out smoother without creating a vacuum and a back-bubbles. Same technique is used for filling automobile engine oil.
That's pretty much WHY the bottle is designed with the spout on one side. The same concept applies to pouring from a 5 gallon tighthead pail - lay it on its side with the spout on top on the bench and simply roll it (keeping the handle in check) one way or the other with your catch container under the spout. No glug.
I use a ketchup pump I got from a chip truck guy. Washed it out and filled it up with bar oil. Just pump the oil directly into the reservoir. Never spill a drop!
I'm glad I happened to find your channel, this is the third one I've watched. My 30 yr. old McCulloch has been leaking for a long time and I just started draining the tank when I am ready to put it away. I'll check mine out, I need to clean around the chain anyway.
I used to be a pump jockey back in the days of full service gas stations. When you pour oil, notice that the spout is offset to one side. If you pour while holding the bottle with the spout on the top side, it will not glug glug glug, but pours smoothly. Love your channel!
Good video, very good tips, and you don't waste a lot of time getting to the point. Thank you. I do have one suggestion - 1-quart plastic containers are made with the pour-spout off-center, and it's for a reason. When you pour as you do, oil comes out sporadically, with air bubbles making it go "glug, glug, glug". It's easy to have the oil miss the hole, and it's hard to control the flow. If you turn the bottle around 180 degrees, you can pour slow and steady, with complete control. I didn't read ALL the comments, so someone else may already have pointed this out. If so, sorry to waste your time.
@@ishnifusmeadle Mine sit in old kitchen baking trays. They double as a container to catch spills when filling or parts tray when dissembling. A lot more resilient than the foil trays... never seen one puncture or rust due to the oil mess. 😉
@BTW... oh for sure a great idea. Usually my foils last me about 5 or 6 years b4 the pin hole, never had one rust tho, and for about a buck or two a piece it makes sense for me, but If I ever find big nuff legit baking trays I'll give ur way a try. Makes total sense they're alot mor robust. I usually toss a sheet of cardboard for easy clean up on top of my shelf, then the trays, then a couple pieces of paper towel but mainly for leak detection/keep saw semi dry at least. I prefer the real sheet trays (they're used if restaurants alot) that are about 2'×4' and mid guage stainless with a 1/2" rolled lip but they're 50-100 bucks a pop and as such u don't find used ones often. I do have a couI. I use in the shop and love em, but that's it.
Probably like most saw owners I use it infrequently. I keep it clean top, bottom, chain and bar. When I finish with a task I clean the machine and drain both fuel and bar oil. Every saw I've owned leaked and it's just easier (for me) to do this rather than cleaning up everything else. I run the engine out of fuel before storage.
I just found your videos.. I am up late cuz I could not sleep and here I am on the pooter watching videos.. You are great to watch.. Very informative.. I sorta grew up with a chain saw in my hands as Dad was a logger.. I have mostly ran a Stihl saw.. They are dependable and start easily.. Keep up the good work..
I store my saws by hanging them from the handle using paracord. This does a few things, allows the oil to drain in the bar scabbard, keeps it off the ground and protected, and helps with moisture in the fuel tank. Good video.
Your final summary was what I always thought (having run various saws for over 45 years). Saws leak. But, yeah, you have to make sure the lines are connected right, the pump's working and the bar's getting oil - that's what's important.
I always just acknowledged it as the nature of the function! Especially the automated oiler system. Forget the old school manual oiler and burn up a couple bar and chains combinations. You'll not worry about it leaking via the automatic system. I loved the old school automatic with manual override! Too much oil is a lot cheaper than not enough. Been there!
What a great find on the Echo. It was funny about the chain being backwards. I’ve seen my buddies do that a lot. I’ve got an old Stihl 034. Love that saw.
Excellent video your more intelligent than half the blokes out there doing this stuff and a whole lot prettier to watch keep up the great work your awesome
Good video. Ive been chain sawing for 50 years and learned a few things. Worry about operating equipment with shower shoes. Again thanks for your video
This was great information. All three of my saws (Stihl, Husqvarna, McCulloch) leak oil when sitting (the Husky is the worst). Now I know they aren't actually leaking but dripping excess oil. Thank you for another great video.
I think a major reason for excessive oil leaks is the viscosity of the chain oil used, temperature is also a big factor, I rarely get oil on the floor under my chainsaws, but I think that is because after use I blasts as much wood dust/oil residue from under the saw with a long nozzle air gun, I notice that the oil you use here is very "thin" but that could be the temperature it is at, I rarely use my chain saws when it is hot, (it gets to 40 deg C here), so that could be the rason I do not have pools of oil under where they are stored, and now it is zero degs I think the oil is less "runny". Chris B.
1st time visitor . Very impressed with the knowledge and the down to earth explanation of the problem and solutions. Looking forward to seeing future videos.
the one useful thing she could have shown which was how to take that bracket off the husqavarna that was behind the bar, she completely skipped over how to remove that, the rest of the video was just a commercial for echo brand bar and chain oil. could have saved 90% of the video and just said hey use good thick bar oil and not the cheap dollar general stuff.
Love this, especially hearing that other people get caught by that cap. I dumped a whole tank of bar oil once because I thought the cap was tight. My Stihl leaks like a sieve so definitely going to see what I can find.
I've had that issue myself. But then I've been in a rush filled one thank then the other and forgotten one cap and dumped the contents on my foot. Lol. The Stihl caps are better once you get used to them. But only one thing helps leaving cap off. Slow down
My old Stihl 025 was leaking into the carrying/storage case like that too. I bought new caps for the chain oil and gas too and the leak had stopped at least it was dry the last I checked it. I really enjoy your videos.
My husqvarna 450e leaks terrible. I replaced oiler line, but watching you today makes me wonder about that rubber on the oiler. Any other places where you think it might be leaking? Love these Vlogs!!
I was taught as a child that saws are usually designed to use gas and bar oil at about the same rate, relative to the size of each tank - burning off half a tank of gas, you'll use about half a tank of oil - so I've always been in the habit of adding bar oil anytime I add gas. My small homeowner-class Stihl makes a mess of oil on the shelf, and I've been wondering why, BUT it maintains that "at the same rate" balance - I never get it out and find a full tank of gas and a low oil tank. Thank you for confirming that it's just residual oil slowly draining off.
@@AnonymousOtters If the oil tank is half the size of the gas tank, by volume, then when you use half a tank of gas, you'll also use half a tank of oil... but half of a smaller tank. (I'm not insisting I'm right, just trying to better explain what I was told.)
@@AnonymousOtters most saws are typically set up off the shelf to be 1:1, in big wood or when running long bars a lot of folks will up the oil flow and it may end up being .6-.75:1. Never seen a pro saw need gas & still have more than an ox or two of oil left in the tank. Ymmv.
@@DaddyBeanDaddyBean Yes, by that logic I agree. Most saws have half as large of oil tank and therefore empty nearly the same time, but consume half the oil by volume.
Just found chicanic and I have wondered for a long time why my Johnsered leaks after use. I’ll try to loosen the caps for storage or look for a leak. She’s great and very easy to understand.
Good vid. Yup, they all leak, but Husky/Poulan more so. I've found you can minimize it some if you seat the oiler rubbers with Permatex 2 being careful not to over do, and plug the holes. I store my saws on a cookie sheet with a piece of cardboard in it to minimize the spread of the mess as well.
What about Barometric pressure changes? I`ve seen plastic gas cans expand and contract when they are sealed properly and sitting out in the sun. I`ve seen them implode when they cool off at night to the point of cracking at the creases, but the oil reservoir is is small compared to a gas can. Even in a temperature controlled building you will still have barometric changes, maybe causing the oil pumps out and air goes back in over time. I enjoy your videos, you don`t drag it out like a lot of people do. You, Taryl Fixes All, and Steve`s Small Engine Saloon are my favorite one`s to watch. Ya`ll explain things very well, and tell us about Manufactures small blunders. P.S. I learned to not work on my lawnmower and weed trimmer in the drive way, you become everybody`s new best buddy. Ha Ha.
I’ve got a Stihl 041AV, must be 40 yrs old, maybe more. Uses exactly a tank of oil for every tank of fuel. Has never leaked (other than what drips off after being run hard). Bought a Husqvarna e series 450 x-torq that leaks half a tank of oil if I park it with the tank full. And it does not oil the chain when under full power such as cutting blocks, have to run it just fast enuf to turn the chain after every block so the chain gets oil. Bought it with a 5 yr warranty, took it back, they said it’s working normal, supposed to leak oil, complained about the lack of oil under power, they said they couldn’t get it to do that. It spent the 5 yrs mostly at the dealership, and now I’m stuck with the problems. Only thing good about it is it’s way lighter than my Stihl. Love that old Stihl.
From “MY” point of view, the best way of preventing the oil mess means no oil in the reservoir. I use my so often that this is not an option. I use my saws as often as I can because I LIKE to use them and I use them whenever I get the opportunity. Also keep in mind that the bar/chain acts like a small reservoir for all of the oil, meaning that the oil that is already on them tends to flow off onto something. Gravity is real! I’ve been a part of a large discussion about this. I also have my oiler turned to maximum output. Because this ain’t the days of the Exxon Valdez!
If you turn the plastic oil container the other way, it doesn’t gouge out, comes out in a steady stream. Don’t know why it’s counterintuitive but it works.
Thanks, this helps a lot determining where my saws are leaking oil and how to check on where there Leaking bar oil. Great common sense question and answers
When you top up your bar oil and refuel, instead of pouring with the spout at the bottom of the container, turn the container so the spout is facing the sky you will no longer get the cavitation/surge and you get better control with refilling.
I used to work at the Poulan manufacturing plant way back , one other reason they can leak. Is the porosity of the metal. We had a machine that was supposed to seal this, but fuel tanks and bar oil tanks were tested under water sealed to a fixture with air pressure added to check for leaks. Those with leaks were sealed with epoxy much like JB Weld. I can see having the cap loose to relive the pressure, would stop the wicking action thru the tanks .
Good information. I have a pull on it (Poulan) lol! It was made in the USA. Thanks to you I will check if the epoxy has cracked. Now I believe everything is Made in China.
Some of the older small saws pressurized the oil tank from the crank case to pump out the oil. If you didn’t release the pressure from the tank after stopping the saw it would continue pumping oil out.
Chickanic is great! I just got a carb kit for my Homelite P33, which has been sitting for maybe close to 10 years. Sure enough there was a puddle of bar oil in the carrier. Well I drained the remaining bar oil out of it and got to wondering if there was something more serious other than than no starting issue. But thanks to you I don’t have to be concerned with a “little” leaking of bar oil. Now on to my starting problem and carb replacement. Thanks.
After using your chainsaw, It's a good idea to pour the remaining oil into a coffee can or jar. then wash off the chain/bar and clutch housing area with some brake clean or carb spray. This gets rid of dire and sawdust that clog up the oiling system, and if it has no oil in it, it can't leak all over your shop floor, or in the case. A fully functioning oiling system will use up it's oil about as fast as it uses up it's gas. If it doesn't, you are not getting enough oil on your chain.
No-one who uses a chainsaw regularly would ever take the time to drain the bar oil tank after each use. And clean off the saw too? That would be a ridiculous waste of time. A chainsaw is a tool that needs to be ready at all times, not a car that we like to be shiny and clean. By the way, the smaller Stihl saws, like the MS180C, are miserly with the bar oil and will go through two or three tanks of gas per tank of bar oil. I agree with you: that is far, far too little lubrication. Thanks a lot, Stihl, for making your non-adjustable saws run the chains almost dry.
@@paulmaxwell8851 It takes 15 seconds to dump the oil out of the saw and another 15 seconds to refill it. Think about this, if it's leaking, you'll have to refill it anyway, and then there's cleaning up the mess. So, it takes no more of your time and it saves money. DUH.
So I have a sthil 018c chainsaw that will loose everything in the oil tank. I just put a new fuel and oil line on and thought that would cure the problem. Nope, it makes a big mess just sitting overnight on a paper towel. So would the tank be bad ? I'm running ace brand bar oil, haven't tried a different brand . Great video as always. You rock
Been using used motor oil for bar oil in the tree service for 30 years. Bars and chains last just as long, oilers work just fine with it, much cheaper too.
@@countryfriedent Your right as rain. I used to use any kind of oil on the chain, but found out about the sticky factor and started doing it correctly.
There are some needle nose pliers that have a second hinge in the middle. I forget the technical name, but it makes it easier when you need to pull fuel line, filters, or grommets inside the narrow tank holes.
Snap On make their Stork needle nose pliers. These have long handles and the grippy end has a double bend in it which makes them pretty handy for tight places (like that but where you can see the bolt you just dropped but can't touch it on your car engine)
@@gavinshields2812 no, not at all. A hemostat is a clamp that LOOK like pliers but they are biased to shut, because they're clamp. Plus I've never seen a hemostat with a double hinge. If they even exist, they're still not what I'm talking about.
Here's one for you. My MS310 just started leaking alot of bar oil. I haven't run it in a several months but it started right up like always but then after I was running it for a while to make sure it was running good without stalling out it started leaking oil heavily. So I did everything in your video and it all checked out good and my results are that it's only leaking heavily while it's running. But it leaks so much that oil sprays out from the seams of the cover and the stream off the bar looks like a squirt gun.🤔 Now like you said better to be oiling than not oiling but I'm perplexed as to why it's leaking so much now.
Just bought my first saw and noticed the oil leak. Glad I watched this video, seems to be more common that i thought. Gives me some piece of mind. Thought the oiler was faulty. Going to take my saw apart entirely and check everything over regardless.
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Much appreciated and helpful. When my Stihl chainsaw runs it has very hot exhaust and even the plastic housing is burned. I have to wear gloves because the exhaust is so hot it burns my fingers. Any ideas?
Not cool starting and working on chain saws with flip flops darling.
I bought my first Husqvarna 61 new, 40 years ago, cutting 3 - 6 cords of wood with it every year, since. It is still my Number One saw, but I've only had it back to the shop once, and that was the first winter, when the plastic worm gear driving the oil pump stripped out because I didn't know about winter-weight bar oil. I also learned that on that saw there are three different settings for the amount of oil delivered to the bar. You want the bar oil reservoir to have just a little oil left in it when the gas tank runs empty.
I watched this video primarily because all three of my saws leak oil after putting them away. I will be checking them carefully, as noted, but I think my best bet for keeping the floor clean will be to invest in some chainsaw cases. Thanks -- you've saved me a lot of time looking for the cause of a problem that probably doesn't exist.
When I bought my first saw, I had never even run a chainsaw before. After the crusty, older guy who ran the one-man shop showed me how to prep and start it, how to adjust the chain, and told me to read the manual for safety instructions, I asked him if there was any other wisdom he could impart to a new chainsaw owner. He paused for a second, looking off into the distance over my shoulder, then refocused and said "Don't ever loan it out, and keep it out of sight." Wisest advice, ever.
I was working on John Deere G110 riding mower. It was dying every time mower deck engaged. I finally saw seat interlock was unplugged while filling gas tank. RIFLMFAO!😮
Never loan it out. Truly a man wise from experience.
My dad's advice was the same but it was a list of 3 things chainsaw, razor and wife!
In that order...
I was told at the Husqvarna dealership that, when I am done using my saw put the saw down with the refill caps facing up and crack them loose and leave them like that during storage. He said reason being with temperature changes, if the caps are tight the gas tank and bar oil tank will build pressure and push the oil past the oiler. I've done what he instructed 2 years ago and so far no bar oil has leaked out.
Great tip, now l will do the same with my four chainsaws, thanks. 👍👍
Great comment, and that does work, unless the saw is stored in a case, or on a shelf? I usually run the saw low on gas and bar oil, before finishing up a job, and shutting the saw off. I DO recommend cleaning the junk out of the clutch cover area, as ‘Chickanic’ mentioned in this video. Stay safe and Healthy! 👍✌🏻
bought a Husky, it didn't have the scabbard with it as advertised. They told me to buy it. Returned it for the Echo, no regrets great chainsaw. If they won't honor a cheap plastic scabbard what makes you think they will honor something important?
@@jeepndd What a cheap bastard, my dealer always has a stack of free 20" Husqvarna scabbards on the counter for the taking.
@@jeepndd Well said. I’d do the same if a shop tried that stunt on me. 😊👍👍
Don't stop posting it's only 2024 and people still need someone that has knowledge an sense on repairs...love your Videos
Hello
First of all I would like to thank you for your videos. I never knew too much about small engines until I start watching your videos which is very educational for me. I do appreciate your time and your effort and I know it's a lot of effort to make the videos and edit learned a lot like I said. And I think it's very cool that a young lady is as knowledgeable as you are I 🎉heard it what you're videos that you've been doing this for about ten fifteen years and something like that which is Great
And you're doing this in a pretty much. A man's trade with your husband that is just wonderful.
Phone so I will definitely keep on watching the different videos again. I wan to thank you very much.❤😊
Clever! I learned so much. Thanks from Sweden! I pass Husqvarna town a few times a year and it reminds me of the great mechanical history and tradition that comes from there. Bikes, motorbikes, guns, gardening and agricultural machines and chainsaws and more.
They all leak, even new, but more as they age (like us...). I always crack open the oil cap when stored. This way, no pressure build-up caused by temperature changes. It is what causes most of the leaks when stored. It will cut by 75% the oil leaking. Unless there is an issue, then you have to fix it.
Love your videos. Thanks a lot for all the work you put in to teach us how to repair our small engines.
Love your opening statement, how true it is. I can relate to it too as l’m 70yo. 😊👍👍
I agree! Thanks Michel!
I love watching a professional analyze problems of whatever they are proficient at. Chickanic really knows what to look for without wasting a ton of time. Great video. Thanks.
your passion with helping us learn is phenomenal. Thank you for taking the time
that you do to teach. .
Thanks for the info. It's always good to watch someone have an issue, thinks of a theory, does what's needed to test the theory, checks the results and formulates a solution. I love watching people troubleshoot stuff.
Remember, the oil pump fills the bar with oil, which then goes into the chain as it travels through the channel in the bar. When the saw stops the bar is full of oil and gravity takes it all out onto the floor over time. All saws will mark their spot simply because of the design of the system, not necessarily a leak.
Yeah, but every bit of bar oil will leak out of my Husqvarna, not just what's in the bar.
My John deere saw leaks,my Husqvarna saw leaks,my poulan leaks.
@@arcadiaoffgridexperience Yep, that indicates a problem. Just the normal excess draining out can't be helped.
I cut for a living for 5 yrs in the black hills your topics starting and leaks are spot on thanks for your work rare that ANY body does saw repair😊
I bought a Craftsman 20 inch and it puts out a good amount of oil on the bar but hardly any reservoir leakage... I like it!! Starts on one pull! I keep mine inside where TISS WARM all winter...
My hero! Of all the channels yours the most straight forward and concise. Your delivery is also pleasing to the ear.
Concise? It's a 21 minute video to show pushing a rubber grommet back into place
Excellent video, thanks!
I’ve noticed that when I clean under the bar cover and within the bar groves before storing the saw, I end up with much less bar oil under the saw later.
From your video I realized that my habits were eliminating the excess oil from draining down from the bar cover, chain, and bar.
I’ve also noticed that spring warmer temps will allow winter grade bar oil (lower viscosity) to make a bigger floor mess than summer grade bar oil. Once I swap to the higher viscosity summer grade bar oil, I get less of a puddle.
One tip from an old , experienced tech (since 1983) - Quite dangerous to run that husqvarna with outboard clutch without a chain and side cover on it - not common but I have had it happen: - You rev it up, and then let it idle , and/or when you shut it off, the clutch spins itself loose, spins off the crank and goes for a ride all by itself (after first hitting my steel toe boots, which saved me from an E.R. trip) and ran across the shop floor, scratching up the paint job on a brand new mower being assembled and barely missed the tech working on it, left a nice dent in the concrete block wall when it stopped. After having that or similar happen 3 times (twice on Husqvarna, once on a Stihl) I just never run them without clutch cover in place any more.. I like my toes where they are!
The clutch have reverse threads so as the motor runs it gets tighter, not the opposite.
@@stihlvarna Until you shut it off, or go from full throttle to idle, then the momentum of the clutch unscrews itself.
@@briangustin3745 the momentum tightens it...
@@stihlvarna Momentum tightens it when the saw runs and revs up. (from clutch side, saw is turning clockwise, thus mass of clutch tends to tighten clutch as saw revs up or is under load from the chain & bar) . However, without bar and chain, no load, full RPM as the saw idles down, the momentum of the clutch wants to continue turning clockwise, while the crankshaft turns slower than the clutch (or stops on shutdown) so the clutch loosens itself and then spins off. Think about it. :)
@@briangustin3745 I did. I think your full of it.
I'm so glad to have watched this video and read some of the comments.
Chainsaws leaking oil have been a great frustration for me, and it's comforting to know that it's a common problem for everyone. Now I've learned that there's a couple of things I can do to check/minimize the problem.
Hi,
Great effort on the leaks. It’s all about the maintenance that the saw receives. Most people as you know do none!
I blow the saw out and air filter after every use then sharpen the chain clamping the bar in a vise and marking the starting point.
It goes along way to remove the bar and chain and clean the groove of the bar removing the wood dust with a hacksaw blade. This is one of the reasons the bar heats up as the dust prevents oil to the bar.
In the winter I store the saw inside and use winter bar and chain oil to make it flow easier. I also run all my saws on Swift ultra 94 unleaded Av gas. I have a Stihl 026 and MS-280 that have served me well over 25 years now. Keep up the great videos!
I do most if not all repairs on my vehicles but always had a hard time with my small engine garden equipment. Your videos and commentary are amazingly helpful. I have a chainsaw that leaks and can't wait to diag the issue. Thank you Chickanic!
Concur. Before the space age I could fix almost anything on a car, but a motorcycle slays me. Nowadays I lift the hood and plastic stuff starts breaking.
@@chrisbyers6084 Lol. Xactly. But like the commercial sez; "Take another look, at Plastic!" Remember that one?
I love this channel, every town needs a technician like you. By the way I hang all my chainsaws (4 Sthils) on the wall bar down and have no leaking problems. Mabe coincidence Mabe not. Thx for being so informative and by all means keep it up. 😊
Me too , I still a small hole in the bottom it the trigger handle on the flat part then hang the saw on a nail or screw
having been a mechanic for motorcycles, cars small engines etc professionally and as a hobby.... its amazing what you forget. I was amazed how accurate your videos and professional. You are by far the best youtube small engine professional out there. alright rediscovered a few things thanks to your logical and accurate videos. Ive repaired over a dozen various models as favors for neighbors and several were much simpler to do after your videos. Thank you. My wife is thrilled I have such support for you. You deserve it.'
No, I am glad you made this video. I have a Husquavarna 575 and it seeps oil when stored. I bet when I shine a light into my oil chamber that is the problemo. No maintenance video is too small to do when you think about over 200,000 subscribers....there's a good bunch of us who do lots of construction and repairs but don't know or analyze everything all the time. Thanks.
Love your posts. My Grandson and I have repaired 2 pushmowers from troubleshooting from a video. We enjoy watching your advice on weedeaters,blower engines too. Thank You Chickanic.
Something to remember, after running a saw, open the oil reservoir cap to relieve tank pressure. Do not fill it up until right before use. Relieving the pressure the cap can reduce oil leakage
If you are assuming your oil tank vent is clogged then sure but if not your not doing anything
I just dump what’s left back in the gt bottle or gallon jug and store empty along w store empty fuel tank carbs ran dry ? To easy
@@jimgoinham6878 most oil caps only have a 1 way vent, they let air in as oil gets used, but won't let air out so as the saw warms and cools in the air when stored the valve makes the tank act like a pump, oil can only escape one way, thru the pump and onto the bar.
Fuel caps are the same. If they had free vents allowing air in both directions s they would leak as soon as you inverted the saw.
After constantly finding an oil mess in the bottom of my storage case I discovered that by opening the oil cap to relieve pressure did the trick for me. I do put the cap back on for storage but I also use clothes under the Stihl’s motor to soak up any residual oil.
@@davidholmes9874 Thx. I ll try that. . .
Thanks for posting. My Stihl MS180 used to drain bar oil completely out of tank after use. I replaced oil line and all good now. Still leaks some. They all do after usage. Nature of the Beast, I guess. Loosening cap ,to relieve pressure in oil tank, was tried but never proved useful.
Thanks for taking the time to work out what most of us never do. House keeping is a must in all industries.
Just watched your video on hard to start chainsaws. I own a Stihl MS290 that I bought new 12 years ago. I am that person that could never start it. I thought I was doing something wrong, so I brought it to my dealer, who basically started it in front of me, while I took notes. I then came across your video, which gave me confidence not to give up on it. Following your tips, and adding just two more very important steps, I can now start my STIHL every time I need it.
STEP 1 After you pull it twice, move the CHOKE TO WARM, or up one notch, from full choke. What I found this does, is drastically reduces the compression on all your future pulls. So you don't end pulling your arm out of its socket trying to pull the rope.
STEP 2 It kept stalling on me right after it started, so I started it with the chain brake off. Sorry Safety Guys, but it works. I can now rev it up as soon as it starts.
You rock woman!
I gave up on my stihl. Sounds like same problem. One time I could use it others I couldn't. It would start and idle but due after. I bought a husky 450 and it is reliable
Good to see an informative video without a long drawn out amount of useless stuff. Also glad to see her place her foot in the handle to start the saw. I see a lot of people swing the saw around when starting them and not warming the saw up before using them. I had problems with the cap on my oil reservoir leaking, now I know about lossening the cap to relieve pressure from the comments. Not concerned about clutch comments or how to pour bar oil. But, cut off jeans on an attractive woman, that's great. Thanks for pointing out burned bar, that helps users know it's maintenance time before damaging saw.
Much good information on your channel. I grew up on a large farm and used a chainsaw since I could hold one. Your 2-cycle engine information is truly outstanding, thank you so much for sharing.
I have been running chainsaws since the mid 1970s. Mc Cs, Stihl, Poulan. I have used bar oil, old fryer oil, mineral oil and used motor oil with no leaking problems. This lady is spot on when she says keep it clean and in good working order. My go to saw is a Stihl 034 from the late 80s. Keep it clean and sharp, do not use ethanol fuel and any 2 cycle mix oil has worked great. I like the blue stuff best!
Great video.
Neither of those saws were cleaned, wiped off maybe, definitely not cleaned. In our orchards we mainly use pole saws occasionally chainsaws, the pole-saws do the same leaky-leak. Especially if they have not been cleaned properly after use. I tend to go OCD with my pole-saw. I make sure their is no debris around the oil and fuel caps before I open to refill. Debris inside can clog up tanks and is a nightmare to unclog and clean out. I use compressed air to the majority off the outside, remove cover, bar and chain and repeat underneath the cover. I scrape out the rails with an old credit card and use a small pick to clean out the oiler holes then use ca again down the rails to the spinner and listen to it sing. Use pick around sprocket and all nooks and crannies as needed before replacing bar and chain. Wipe off any excess residue with paper towels as I go. Some complain that I go overboard but my saw makes less trips to the repair shop than anyone else’s and mine is the oldest saw of the bunch.
Why not use a good point is the type of borrow all you're using if you're using a cheap type of bar oil it's going to run the heck out of the the system compared to a good bar oil that's going to be a lot thicker which isn't going to run out of the system
I just used my Poulan the other day. After I was done, I cleaned it up with an air gun, drained the gas, oil and ran what gas was in the carb out. Even gave the chain a little sharpen with my file. It will be ready to go for next time. Usually when a big limb falls off the tree like what I dug it out for.
First time I stumbled onto you. THANK YOU for speaking clear and loud.
I have an old 440 Stihl. I was Glad to see that yours seemed to start quicker then your new saw. Made me smile
Learned so much here! I've been getting into troubleshooting chainsaws more lately. Great way at explaining things without ramble. Thanks from a fellow female chainsaw lover!
If you think about it, she actually gets it wrong. If you fill a 5 gallon bucket with water, and make sure to spray water all over the outside of the bucket, is the water around the bucket on the ground from a leaky bucket? When you buck wood, the saw dust takes away the excess oil. By running the saws without cutting wood, she loaded up the chain and sprocket area with huge amounts of oil, that oil will slowly run off the saw creating an oil slick. She needs to redo this video and warm the saws up by cutting wood and then shut the saw off promptly. Every self oiling saw ever made will "Leak" when tested like she tested these saws.
Thank you for doing this video! I was trimming some limbs for a neighbor recently and had oil getting slung off of the flywheel. I had even replaced the oiler in this saw last year. Now I know where to start looking to find the problem. Great video!
I bet that saw is FILTHY!
Many years ago now I stopped using regular bar oil because it's high viscosity regular manual transmission gear box oil. It's to thick and stresses the oil pumps to the point where the tight tolerances are lost and the oil simply leaks though the pump. So I started using Castrol 10 40 diesel engine oil and never had a problem since. It pumps quicker because it's much lower viscosity, sprays over your chain teeth and lubricates them as they cut and the chain stays sharp longer.
Another huge plus with diesel motor oil is that it contains Zinc, an excellent high pressure lubricant.
The only slight minus is that yes, you will use slightly more oil, but I buy my oil in bulk which offsets that cost easily.
I run four Stihl commercial chainsaws. None of them leak bar oil at all.
Usually at the end of a cutting session I will rip a large round. The longer shavings clean out the accumulated crap.
One other suggestion. NEVER EVER use used motor oil. It will eat away your magnesium castings because its acidic and full of nasty pollutants that will eat your oil pump.
Stilhl make the best chain bar pumps by far. Husqvarna and the rest are crap.
Hey, I have been a mechanic for 40 years and I love your content. I enjoy learning new things and I frequently learn from the Chicanic! Lol ❤️🇺🇸
I enjoy this channel, i am new in this game and bought a Ryobi62 cc 20in and discovered it is hard to start after i looked at the video ,why do your chainsaw don't start ,i am glad to say i went through your comments and apply them . After struggling eventually success, but then i came across the oil leak situation. Iam in bed now watched your video on leaks tommorow is Sunday . On Monday i will set a another goal. Thanks i like you video's
Bought a brand new Husqvarna last fall and never used it.This spring the bottom of the case was just full.
Thanks to you and the comments ive learned where to look and how to store.
Thank you.
Love your channel. I wish I had your knowledge and mechanical ability when working on things. You're awesome.
Great video---thanks for the tips! And your others as well----amazing how "simple" small engines can be so stubborn and how the fix is sometimes under your nose and easy.
mine leaks 'cause its a 35 year old stihl 026. and my 028 is even older. and they live on a commercial christmas tree farm, plus i heat with wood. cant kill'em. and FYI, they aren't leaking. they are marking their territory. and they make cases? :P love your vids keep'em coming.
Take care of them and they will outlive all of us 🙂
LoL older homelites last alot longer then that
Just like an old Harley 😆
I got a 026 32 years ago.i lived in a old farm house that all it had for heat was a wood stove.i cut so much wood with that saw and it never gave me a problem.still using it today.
@@michaeldulay4461 people don't realize there was a day when they were considered the best thing out there.
Thank you so much for your detailed explanation of how the oiling system works I've got a 44 Magnum and a little 200, or something like that, and was concerned about the oil puddle after use. Clearly it's normal residue oozing off. AND, as a guy, it's an absolute pleasure to watch and listen to an attractive woman explaining this in such an articulate way.
Recently bought a new chain saw and while waiting on my wife to shop I actually read my manual. This particular manufacturer said to remove the bar oil when storing chain saw. Hummm I never knew that was suggested by a manufacturer before. Actually not sure I have ever read a chain saw manual before so theres that. Great video and you are fantastic.
I have a 455 husky. Wondering why it wasn’t getting any oil. And now I might know why. Thanks to this video. Thanks so much for making these informative educational videos. You rock.
This is an excellent video. I think your experiment was warranted. I like the control and test variables. You sure taught me a lot. The only way I can think of stopping bar oil leak if you are storing for a bit is to drain the oil reservoir.
When they manufacture the chain saw they start with the oil leak and then build the saw around it. I think she just proved it.
😅
Love your videos, I've seen alot of great small engine people, but watching you, your the best.
Bought my first chain saw, the instructions might as well be in German so have resorted to RUclips. Think your channel is awesome!
My experience has been that bar oil leaking these excessive amounts is a recent phenomenon. This was not a problem when I earned my living for many years with the saws of that vintage. Husqvarna and Jonsered, both. My new saws all leak, very annoying.
Agree 100%. I have owned 10 or more saws and the only one that leaks is my 6 month old saw!
Are you from the days of years gone by when you had to manually pump the oiler to oil the chain? 😁
@@davidgeorge8172 I have used those saws with manual oilers when I was very young but the saws I used for work were all automatic oilers.
Making them almost all plastic I'm sure is part of the problem. All of the saws I've owned in the past were mostly made of metal.
Chickanic, I enjoyed your well done and informative video. As a distributor service manager for Husqvarna chain saws for 12 years in the late 70's and 80's, oil leaks! I am concerned about your safety, sandals and no eye or ear protection. Yes, the clutch can and will come off (don't ask) when you let off the gas without the clutch cover on. BE SAFE!
I had just rebuilt a 357xp and started it up in the garage without the clutch cover on. I blipped the throttle a few times and the clutch popped off and tore out of the garage across the driveway and onto the flowerbeds. I really don't remember ever laughing that hard before.
@@joesantora8855 That's funny, lucky it left the shop. I had one run across the floor, up the wall and across the ceiling back at me like a rabid squirrel.
Thank you for pronouncing Husky correctly! Instant fan!
Great job with investigative diagnosis, and making a video on a question we all have!
Pushing on soft rubber grommets with a flat screw driver, or yanking with needle nose, is a good way to tear it. A wood dowel works nice for pushing into place, and you can carve or sand it into the shape you need.
Also, if you turn the oil can over, it doesn't glug as you are filling.
Did you know that husqvarna means”house grinder”an old Norwegian faller told me that
William, I grew up being able to pronounce Husky correctly. Can you imagine?
Thanks SO MUCH for teaching me the reasons that ALL chainsaws leak bar oil!! Your experiments TRULY eye-opening and truly appreciate that God put you on the earth to teach us and hope you love what you do! You have a Ph. D. in chainsaws!! Thanks so much again!!
I’m A Contractor, & I Do All My Maintenance On My Pro-Model Saws. I, Appreciate All Your Helpful Tips.!!!! Thanks Much 👍
Again, another great video, full of useful information. (As usual. 😊)
I’ve been using chainsaws for 32 years now and have learnt a lot during this time. Your informative videos are helping me even more, not just with chainsaws but all of my other equipment that use these 2 & 4 stroke engines. You have great knowledge on these engines and it is, undoubtedly greatly appreciated by all that watch your videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and so many helpful tips.
Watching from Australia. 😊👍👍🦘🇦🇺🦘
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. I usually take anything I have with small engines to a repair shop, but I have a feeling I'm going to learn a few things from your videos. I will be watching your video on canned fuels next, as I recently discovered the benefits of using non-ethanol gas in my chain saw, weed eater, chipper, and pressure washer.
you got a small engine guy that's good, he's worth his weight in gold
@@marcuscicero9587 And he's honest! (twice his weight in gold, right?)
Search your area for a gas station with a non-ethanol pump. They won't have a sign. Probably 50 - 90 cents more a gallon but also probably 89 octane or more and very worth it. Especially for last engine use in Fall. If an online search doesn't find it, ask possible users like Harley riders, professional grass mower guys if they know where.
When filling the chain-oil reservoir, rotate the bottle so that the spout is on top. The oil will come out smoother without creating a vacuum and a back-bubbles. Same technique is used for filling automobile engine oil.
Even show you that on the bottle. 👍🏻
I was just getting ready to write the same thing and then I saw your comment right at the top of the comment list.
That's pretty much WHY the bottle is designed with the spout on one side. The same concept applies to pouring from a 5 gallon tighthead pail - lay it on its side with the spout on top on the bench and simply roll it (keeping the handle in check) one way or the other with your catch container under the spout. No glug.
I use a ketchup pump I got from a chip truck guy. Washed it out and filled it up with bar oil. Just pump the oil directly into the reservoir. Never spill a drop!
@@barrymacokiner9423 Ace!👍
You are a lot of fun to watch! It's great to see a women doing this type of work.. you are very good..mike j.
I'm glad I happened to find your channel, this is the third one I've watched. My 30 yr. old McCulloch has been leaking for a long time and I just started draining the tank when I am ready to put it away. I'll check mine out, I need to clean around the chain anyway.
I used to be a pump jockey back in the days of full service gas stations. When you pour oil, notice that the spout is offset to one side. If you pour while holding the bottle with the spout on the top side, it will not glug glug glug, but pours smoothly.
Love your channel!
Good video, very good tips, and you don't waste a lot of time getting to the point. Thank you.
I do have one suggestion - 1-quart plastic containers are made with the pour-spout off-center, and it's for a reason. When you pour as you do, oil comes out sporadically, with air bubbles making it go "glug, glug, glug". It's easy to have the oil miss the hole, and it's hard to control the flow. If you turn the bottle around 180 degrees, you can pour slow and steady, with complete control.
I didn't read ALL the comments, so someone else may already have pointed this out. If so, sorry to waste your time.
We use puppy pads under our saws. They work great to stop oil on the floor/shelf.
I just rotate a piece of cardboard. Last a long time. Leaking is there but not to bad.
Do a similar,but also toss those cheap flat disposable tin trays under.
@@ishnifusmeadle Mine sit in old kitchen baking trays. They double as a container to catch spills when filling or parts tray when dissembling. A lot more resilient than the foil trays... never seen one puncture or rust due to the oil mess. 😉
@BTW... oh for sure a great idea. Usually my foils last me about 5 or 6 years b4 the pin hole, never had one rust tho, and for about a buck or two a piece it makes sense for me, but If I ever find big nuff legit baking trays I'll give ur way a try. Makes total sense they're alot mor robust. I usually toss a sheet of cardboard for easy clean up on top of my shelf, then the trays, then a couple pieces of paper towel but mainly for leak detection/keep saw semi dry at least. I prefer the real sheet trays (they're used if restaurants alot) that are about 2'×4' and mid guage stainless with a 1/2" rolled lip but they're 50-100 bucks a pop and as such u don't find used ones often. I do have a couI. I use in the shop and love em, but that's it.
Probably like most saw owners I use it infrequently. I keep it clean top, bottom, chain and bar. When I finish with a task I clean the machine and drain both fuel and bar oil. Every saw I've owned leaked and it's just easier (for me) to do this rather than cleaning up everything else. I run the engine out of fuel before storage.
I just found your videos.. I am up late cuz I could not sleep and here I am on the pooter watching videos.. You are great to watch.. Very informative.. I sorta grew up with a chain saw in my hands as Dad was a logger.. I have mostly ran a Stihl saw.. They are dependable and start easily.. Keep up the good work..
Very informative and professional advice. Love the use of the safety gear.
Safety gear is unsafe besides hearing n eye jeans n boots all that's needed if. Ur not low IQ like the entire bribery Biden administration no joke man
I store my saws by hanging them from the handle using paracord. This does a few things, allows the oil to drain in the bar scabbard, keeps it off the ground and protected, and helps with moisture in the fuel tank. Good video.
good idea. might have to try that myself 🤔
Thank you you actually went into detail better than other videos i watched
i found you the other day and im glad i did. very entertaining and very informative.
Your final summary was what I always thought (having run various saws for over 45 years). Saws leak. But, yeah, you have to make sure the lines are connected right, the pump's working and the bar's getting oil - that's what's important.
I always just acknowledged it as the nature of the function! Especially the automated oiler system. Forget the old school manual oiler and burn up a couple bar and chains combinations. You'll not worry about it leaking via the automatic system. I loved the old school automatic with manual override! Too much oil is a lot cheaper than not enough. Been there!
Same here. You got that right.
It saved the manufacturer money not installing a manual pump. I miss that feature. I get into a big log I'd love to be able to add a squirt of lube.
What a great find on the Echo. It was funny about the chain being backwards. I’ve seen my buddies do that a lot. I’ve got an old Stihl 034. Love that saw.
Gotta love it when the newbie flips the chain and bar together, not realizing what they've done.
Excellent video your more intelligent than half the blokes out there doing this stuff and a whole lot prettier to watch keep up the great work your awesome
Good video. Ive been chain sawing for 50 years and learned a few things. Worry about operating equipment with shower shoes. Again thanks for your video
This was great information. All three of my saws (Stihl, Husqvarna, McCulloch) leak oil when sitting (the Husky is the worst). Now I know they aren't actually leaking but dripping excess oil. Thank you for another great video.
I think a major reason for excessive oil leaks is the viscosity of the chain oil used, temperature is also a big factor, I rarely get oil on the floor under my chainsaws, but I think that is because after use I blasts as much wood dust/oil residue from under the saw with a long nozzle air gun, I notice that the oil you use here is very "thin" but that could be the temperature it is at, I rarely use my chain saws when it is hot, (it gets to 40 deg C here), so that could be the rason I do not have pools of oil under where they are stored, and now it is zero degs I think the oil is less "runny". Chris B.
1st time visitor . Very impressed with the knowledge and the down to earth explanation of the problem and solutions. Looking forward to seeing future videos.
the one useful thing she could have shown which was how to take that bracket off the husqavarna that was behind the bar, she completely skipped over how to remove that, the rest of the video was just a commercial for echo brand bar and chain oil. could have saved 90% of the video and just said hey use good thick bar oil and not the cheap dollar general stuff.
Love this, especially hearing that other people get caught by that cap. I dumped a whole tank of bar oil once because I thought the cap was tight. My Stihl leaks like a sieve so definitely going to see what I can find.
Those caps are dogshit, I would much rather have the old school ones that need the tool. My only complaint about my 441.
I've had that issue myself. But then I've been in a rush filled one thank then the other and forgotten one cap and dumped the contents on my foot. Lol. The Stihl caps are better once you get used to them. But only one thing helps leaving cap off. Slow down
My old Stihl 025 was leaking into the carrying/storage case like that too. I bought new caps for the chain oil and gas too and the leak had stopped at least it was dry the last I checked it. I really enjoy your videos.
And here all along I thought my Brutus (Husky 394XP), was just marking his territory. :) I keep a pan underneath it. Thanks for the video.
My husqvarna 450e leaks terrible. I replaced oiler line, but watching you today makes me wonder about that rubber on the oiler. Any other places where you think it might be leaking? Love these Vlogs!!
This helped me: ruclips.net/video/3mC_7wLEq9I/видео.html
I was taught as a child that saws are usually designed to use gas and bar oil at about the same rate, relative to the size of each tank - burning off half a tank of gas, you'll use about half a tank of oil - so I've always been in the habit of adding bar oil anytime I add gas. My small homeowner-class Stihl makes a mess of oil on the shelf, and I've been wondering why, BUT it maintains that "at the same rate" balance - I never get it out and find a full tank of gas and a low oil tank. Thank you for confirming that it's just residual oil slowly draining off.
I've never seen a saw use the same amount of oil and gas, it should be half as much oil as gas, by volume. If its not, your likely over oiling.
@@AnonymousOtters If the oil tank is half the size of the gas tank, by volume, then when you use half a tank of gas, you'll also use half a tank of oil... but half of a smaller tank. (I'm not insisting I'm right, just trying to better explain what I was told.)
@@AnonymousOtters most saws are typically set up off the shelf to be 1:1, in big wood or when running long bars a lot of folks will up the oil flow and it may end up being .6-.75:1. Never seen a pro saw need gas & still have more than an ox or two of oil left in the tank. Ymmv.
I never leave fuel in my saw.
@@DaddyBeanDaddyBean Yes, by that logic I agree. Most saws have half as large of oil tank and therefore empty nearly the same time, but consume half the oil by volume.
Super helpful. I have my checklist in hand and am off to diagnose my 2 yrs old Stihl that started suddenly leaking noticeably recently.
Just found chicanic and I have wondered for a long time why my Johnsered leaks after use. I’ll try to loosen the caps for storage or look for a leak. She’s great and very easy to understand.
Great video as always, thanks for sharing your expertise. 👍👍
Cool stuff. Love the dual wielding of saws on your tests. Seems like the quality of oil makes a difference with leakage as well...
Good vid. Yup, they all leak, but Husky/Poulan more so. I've found you can minimize it some if you seat the oiler rubbers with Permatex 2 being careful not to over do, and plug the holes. I store my saws on a cookie sheet with a piece of cardboard in it to minimize the spread of the mess as well.
Love your site, envy your husband . Must be nice to be able to talk about a shared interest
What about Barometric pressure changes? I`ve seen plastic gas cans expand and contract when they are sealed properly and sitting out in the sun. I`ve seen them implode when they cool off at night to the point of cracking at the creases, but the oil reservoir is is small compared to a gas can. Even in a temperature controlled building you will still have barometric changes, maybe causing the oil pumps out and air goes back in over time. I enjoy your videos, you don`t drag it out like a lot of people do. You, Taryl Fixes All, and Steve`s Small Engine Saloon are my favorite one`s to watch. Ya`ll explain things very well, and tell us about Manufactures small blunders. P.S. I learned to not work on my lawnmower and weed trimmer in the drive way, you become everybody`s new best buddy. Ha Ha.
I’ve got a Stihl 041AV, must be 40 yrs old, maybe more. Uses exactly a tank of oil for every tank of fuel. Has never leaked (other than what drips off after being run hard). Bought a Husqvarna e series 450 x-torq that leaks half a tank of oil if I park it with the tank full. And it does not oil the chain when under full power such as cutting blocks, have to run it just fast enuf to turn the chain after every block so the chain gets oil. Bought it with a 5 yr warranty, took it back, they said it’s working normal, supposed to leak oil, complained about the lack of oil under power, they said they couldn’t get it to do that. It spent the 5 yrs mostly at the dealership, and now I’m stuck with the problems. Only thing good about it is it’s way lighter than my Stihl. Love that old Stihl.
Finally!!! Someone thats says Husqvarna correctly???
A few of us know how but aren't going to, just sounds goofy to me. Some hoosky do and some hoosky don't.
@@JohnnyRebLaWorks best while imitating the Swedish chef.
From “MY” point of view, the best way of preventing the oil mess means no oil in the reservoir. I use my so often that this is not an option. I use my saws as often as I can because I LIKE to use them and I use them whenever I get the opportunity. Also keep in mind that the bar/chain acts like a small reservoir for all of the oil, meaning that the oil that is already on them tends to flow off onto something. Gravity is real! I’ve been a part of a large discussion about this. I also have my oiler turned to maximum output. Because this ain’t the days of the Exxon Valdez!
If you turn the plastic oil container the other way, it doesn’t gouge out, comes out in a steady stream. Don’t know why it’s counterintuitive but it works.
You have an excellent channel. Keep on making great contact. Thank you.
WOW! Thank you so much!
Thanks, this helps a lot determining where my saws are leaking oil and how to check on where there Leaking bar oil. Great common sense question and answers
When you top up your bar oil and refuel, instead of pouring with the spout at the bottom of the container, turn the container so the spout is facing the sky you will no longer get the cavitation/surge and you get better control with refilling.
I was going to mention that you beat me to it.
I used to work at the Poulan manufacturing plant way back , one other reason they can leak. Is the porosity of the metal. We had a machine that was supposed to seal this, but fuel tanks and bar oil tanks were tested under water sealed to a fixture with air pressure added to check for leaks. Those with leaks were sealed with epoxy much like JB Weld. I can see having the cap loose to relive the pressure, would stop the wicking action thru the tanks .
Good information. I have a pull on it (Poulan) lol! It was made in the USA. Thanks to you I will check if the epoxy has cracked. Now I believe everything is Made in China.
Some of the older small saws pressurized the oil tank from the crank case to pump out the oil. If you didn’t release the pressure from the tank after stopping the saw it would continue pumping oil out.
Thank you! Saved me a trip to the shop. You were spot on for my husky.
Chickanic is great! I just got a carb kit for my Homelite P33, which has been sitting for maybe close to 10 years. Sure enough there was a puddle of bar oil in the carrier. Well I drained the remaining bar oil out of it and got to wondering if there was something more serious other than than no starting issue. But thanks to you I don’t have to be concerned with a “little” leaking of bar oil. Now on to my starting problem and carb replacement. Thanks.
After using your chainsaw, It's a good idea to pour the remaining oil into a coffee can or jar. then wash off the chain/bar and clutch housing area with some brake clean or carb spray. This gets rid of dire and sawdust that clog up the oiling system, and if it has no oil in it, it can't leak all over your shop floor, or in the case. A fully functioning oiling system will use up it's oil about as fast as it uses up it's gas. If it doesn't, you are not getting enough oil on your chain.
No-one who uses a chainsaw regularly would ever take the time to drain the bar oil tank after each use. And clean off the saw too? That would be a ridiculous waste of time. A chainsaw is a tool that needs to be ready at all times, not a car that we like to be shiny and clean. By the way, the smaller Stihl saws, like the MS180C, are miserly with the bar oil and will go through two or three tanks of gas per tank of bar oil. I agree with you: that is far, far too little lubrication. Thanks a lot, Stihl, for making your non-adjustable saws run the chains almost dry.
@@paulmaxwell8851 It takes 15 seconds to dump the oil out of the saw and another 15 seconds to refill it. Think about this, if it's leaking, you'll have to refill it anyway, and then there's cleaning up the mess. So, it takes no more of your time and it saves money. DUH.
So I have a sthil 018c chainsaw that will loose everything in the oil tank.
I just put a new fuel and oil line on and thought that would cure the problem. Nope, it makes a big mess just sitting overnight on a paper towel.
So would the tank be bad ? I'm running ace brand bar oil, haven't tried a different brand . Great video as always. You rock
Been using used motor oil for bar oil in the tree service for 30 years. Bars and chains last just as long, oilers work just fine with it, much cheaper too.
Same.
Thanks for this. I’ve been using bar oil since day one and I could not figure out what the difference was between 30weight bar and 30weight car oil
@@timberwolf0122 they add a tacky substance to bar oil to keep the oil from flying off so easy
@@countryfriedent Your right as rain. I used to use any kind of oil on the chain, but found out about the sticky factor and started doing it correctly.
Not cheaper... you will run through car oil a lot quicker, so no savings.
There are some needle nose pliers that have a second hinge in the middle. I forget the technical name, but it makes it easier when you need to pull fuel line, filters, or grommets inside the narrow tank holes.
Hemostat?
They flipped the bar and let the chain ride along, forgot to flip it too
Snap On make their Stork needle nose pliers. These have long handles and the grippy end has a double bend in it which makes them pretty handy for tight places (like that but where you can see the bolt you just dropped but can't touch it on your car engine)
The hokkout pliers for fishing are pretty good too
@@gavinshields2812 no, not at all. A hemostat is a clamp that LOOK like pliers but they are biased to shut, because they're clamp. Plus I've never seen a hemostat with a double hinge. If they even exist, they're still not what I'm talking about.
Here's one for you. My MS310 just started leaking alot of bar oil. I haven't run it in a several months but it started right up like always but then after I was running it for a while to make sure it was running good without stalling out it started leaking oil heavily. So I did everything in your video and it all checked out good and my results are that it's only leaking heavily while it's running. But it leaks so much that oil sprays out from the seams of the cover and the stream off the bar looks like a squirt gun.🤔 Now like you said better to be oiling than not oiling but I'm perplexed as to why it's leaking so much now.
Just bought my first saw and noticed the oil leak. Glad I watched this video, seems to be more common that i thought. Gives me some piece of mind. Thought the oiler was faulty. Going to take my saw apart entirely and check everything over regardless.