Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
Thanks for telling me you don't know how to properly sharpen a Chainsaw. 😂 Always use a Gauge on the Depth gages to prevent damage to the drive links, never Eyeball them!
My dad used to have his chains commercially sharpened at the local farm supply place and they would grind the crap out of them. He was lucky to get 4 maybe 5 sharpenings because they cut so deep. Back in the mid 70's he bought a Foley Belsaw little sharpener and I was tasked with learning to sharpen chains. I quickly discovered the teeth just barely needed to be touched to put the edge back on them and they cut like new again. Chain life jumped dramatically and pretty soon I was sharpening all my dads friends chains as well.
Thanks. I bought on sale electric tree limb trimming saw to cut limbs of a neighbor's tree that hang into my yard over the common fence. This will help me to understand what I need to do if I need to sharpen the chain. I have already purchased oil for it, haven't used it yet.
@@feez357 Well that doesn't mean anything either... Do you use your chainsaw once per day or once per season? Do you cut balsa wood or something that seems like steel?
I've been sharpening saws since I was a teenager. I'm 68 now. You make things so easy to understand. Even I learned some things. Thanks for the video!!
Thank you so much for creating this video!! ITS EXCELLENT! I've been watching RUclips videos again and again in order to learn how to properly sharpen my chains. You're the first person to really show the specific parts of the chain, how to sharpen it correctly and the science of how a chainsaw cuts through the wood. I mean, Wow! Very very helpful! Thanks again and have an awesome weekend!
Great video. I worked on a farm when I was a kid and the old timers (they may have actually been younger than I am now but they looked to be somewhere close to 150 at the time) would give the chain a lick or two with the file during every break. We did a lot of Locust fence post that were very hard on an edge. Keeping the chain sharp prevents bigger problems that require more aggressive sharpening.
After working several years as a logger when I was young, I still sharpen my saws my hand with a file. I can get the angles pretty good just by eye and I can sharpen a chain in 10 minutes or so generally and can sharpen in a vise on my bench or on a stump in the woods. No need for power tools. Simple and easy.
Great video! I've done this stuff FOREVER and know everything anyone would ever want to know about saw chain and sharpening. You totally understand what is going on and it's refreshing to hear how you explained this all perfectly! Always a joy to watch your videos. :)
Awesome video - first time my chainsaw started cutting crooked I thought I broke something. This explains everything very clearly. Now I need a new gadget for my Dremel 😊.
I Learned to sharpen by my grandpa, he owned a sawmill and was a sawyer. I Later spent two years with the forest circus. A lot of good knowledge was passed down. Different angles, different sharpeners, different guides. Even worked with a guy who worked for Oregon in developing chains. Great video. I love my $700 bench grinder, my handheld rotary grinders , Timberline, but my favorite is my Stihl 2in1. Angles and depths are always consistent and it catches the rakers every time. No matter what I use I’ll slowly catch them points with a loose file to perfect them and debur the edges.
@@paulmussey6424My son gave me a chain sharpener from Stihl i was to proud to except it an told him thanks but i like doing it by hand and it would get ruined in my tool box for the chain saw . Im 60 now it was last year he gave it ,but I can barely do any more cutting an I just bought a new chain place i brought it to said I needed a new bar because i told them the chain was flopping left n right but my old chain was the problem so I said no just a new chain n file please 😅 Glad I saw this video because I've wondered why it would also curve when cutting now I know with out a doubt.
Sure wish you had mentioned how fast chains dull when cutting through dirt-caked logs or allowing the bar to contact the ground. Otherwise, you hit ALL the important points. Good job - again!
The best manual method by far is the Stihl 2 in 1 Filing Guide because they knock down the rakers/depth gaugers at the same time. Super easy. I have all 3 sizes.
I use the 2-in-1 to touch up the chain after I have hand-filed it where I first file the gullet with a round file, then straighten the diagonal front and the top of the tooth with a flat fille and then resharpen the gullet with the round file. Or that's how I do it in on my two Stiga saws with relatively short bars. But recently I got a Husky 572 with a 28 inch bar and the X85 full chisel chain, and since the vendor didn't have the 2-in-1 for that chain, I got the combined chain- and raker guide tool from Husky in stead. Haven't tried it yet because it was too cold to stand and file it in my unheated workshop in -6 Centigrade, so in the meantime I improvised a small workbench in my boiler room and also installed working lights. So tomorrow I'll get to it so the Husky will be ready to cut again. Edit: The chain is called C85, not X85. The X belongs to the Husky 572 XPG name.
It's so refreshing to find a tutorial video DONE RIGHT! So often they don't edit the parts where they wander over to the toolbox to get the tool they forgot they need, or wander off-topic. Yours all always very concise and informative. Kudos to you!
I struggled for years trying to sharpen my chains with limited success. A couple years ago I bought one of the Stihl chain sharpening guides and it does a great job taking almost all the guesswork out of sharpening. They are a bit pricy but well worth it IMHO. As always, YMMV.
Thank You very much Lovely Lady! Doing most of my sharpening in the field while falling trees or cutting lengths for firewood I've noticed a lot of "crooked" cuts happen because of how people hold their chainsaw. While keeping my son and his friends from getting their hand away from the kick back bar, I had to let them practice and get the muscle memory of holding the saw straight. I build ergonomic furniture and desk sets so measuring folks for comfort sometimes means correcting bad habits. Posture is important in so many aspects of daily life and cutting firewood or falling trees is no exception. Good Luck! Those comments go for sharpening also!! With Respect, You all are in my prayers Hoka Hey
I love my Harbor Freight chain grinder. This is what I did: I screwed the grinder to a 2x4 stood on edge. Now when I need to sharpen a chain, I just pulled the grinder out of the cabinet and drop the 2x4 in the vise. Snug the vise and you are ready to sharpen chains. When done, it goes back in the cabinet until next time.
A very nice explanation and demonstration of proper sharpening. One thing left out was a bar worn uneven causing curved cutting. Easy fix if you have a stationary belt sander. Be sure to set it to 90 degrees then lightly sand until even on both rails.
I have found over 35 years that one or two swipes on each tooth with a hand file each time I fill the fuel and oil keeps the chain nicely and avoids damage building up.
Love it! Spent way too much of my life cheaping out and trying to hand sharpen my chain. I always cut curves. Last year I finally popped for the dremmel kit and it fixed all my cutting issues.
Good morning Bre, great video. This will help people a lot. I am surprised that you did not mention using a depth gauge for setting the drag height. IMO this is essential, Another great product you did not cover is the Sthil/Pferd 2 in 1.
I started working in a chainsaw/ lawnmower shop in 1970 when I was 20 years old, back when McCulloch was king of the chainsaws. Over the following 54 years I have sharpened thousands of chainsaw chains. The thing that was brought to mind by watching your sharping video is how little chainsaw sharpening has changed over the years. We are still sharpening them the same way as back then with one exception. Some still try to sharpen with files and it is still a slow, tedious way to sharpen. The big change is the wheels on our electric chainsaw sharping machines. The old standard was the composite mineral wheels that had to be constantly cleaned, reshaped and continually decreased in size as they worn down. This caused constant changes to chainsaw teeth angles that affected their sharpness. You mentioned briefly you were now using a diamond sharpening wheel which is an improvement in chainsaw sharpening accuracy. My biggest change in sharpening is the use of a CBN sharpening wheel on my grinder which is harder than diamonds and never changes shape. It is amazing how much sharper my chainsaw chains are now after sharpening. These sharpening discs have only come on the market in the last 5 years and are new to most chainsaw operators. At $75.00 each they are not cheap but last many years without replacement. They can be obtained from a company called “Woodturner Wonders” on their web site. Keep up the good work, your videos are a real help to chainsaw owners looking to maintain their saws. George Specialty Lumber & Logging Quinlan, Texas See us on RUclips at “George Wood of Texas”
Learned valuable information once again and that has to do with how to read the bar correctly and what the actual difference is between the similar chains. Your video is the only one I've seen that actually shows and explains not only up close and personal of chain sharpening but how to read the bar info. Your head and shoulders above everyone else who does these kinds of videos. That's why I love watching you and info and teaching you deliver. 👏👏👏👏👍👊✌️🙃🇨🇦
I've seen a lot of chain sharpening videos, but this is the first one that has at least inferred that you need to lift up when sharpening. It makes since, since the underside of the actual blade is where all the business happens.
The Stihl 2 in 1 is a game changer. It files the rakers alongside the tooth. 2 or 3 swipes on each tooth when you need a touch up, or after each tank of gas/bar oil - and right back to work
I have one of those as well. I don't have a wood stove, so I only use my chainsaw a few times a year. That means I don't get much practice at sharpening the blade. The 2 in one does a great job and is perfect for someone that just needs a chainsaw every now and then.
Good video, very informative. I do like my Harbor Freight chain sharpener. Good enough for the occasional user. I bolted mine to a 2X4, then clamp it to the bench when I need to use it.
Your husband's a lucky guy! Not only can you fix most everything and share interests but those stone washed cut off jean shorts in the beginning made me miss what you had your foot on three times! lol Wow! You have done a great job with content as well!
Thank you love the way you broke it down and explained how the chain actually cut I had never been told that breakdown and it helps tremendously to know what does what and you explained it so well thank you
So vindicating having a pro come out with a video on the method I already use! The dremel bits work a treat, and get it done quick. I can sharpen mid work load and Im only down a few minutes :)
One other reason for a curved cut could be that the bar is worn unevenly on either side of the groove. A way to prevent this is to flip the bar about every other time you do a full chain sharpening. Generally not needed when doing a quick chain cutter dressing in the field. Always a good thing to check the rakers before starting a good days work in the firewood pile. And keep those logs clean. Just a little bit of sand, dirt or stone will almost immediately kill the best sharpened saw chain. Hope this helps!
I wish the Chickanic lived in Brisbane as I’d love to be her apprentice & do it for free - I’m 65 years old & run a Lawn & Garden Care Business - in Brisbane & love her work & videos - I’ve just subscribed - thank you for making my life easier 👍🙏
Finally someone with great camera views and knowledge. Your video is the best I have seen describing sharpening the chain. I am training myself on chain saw care, mods, chain sharpening, etc. New blades seem to dull and heat up faster without checking them for flaws. I want a chain to cut several times and stay sharp. Your video has showed me what I was doing wrong. Dremel is a great tool for sharpening with the least effort which makes it way better than a file. Thank you. Now to the oiling system. lol.
Thank you for the great information. I have an electric bench top sharpener and several hand sharpeners because I cold never get it quite right. I never thought about the blade tip before which is why I probably have been disappointed in my sharpening skills. Going to the garage after coffee and giving your recommendations a try.
OMG girl, you cracked my ass up! love the knife blade analogy. I'm a woman wordworker and I know the uphill climb it is to explain how to do something safely and correctly. Excellent video. Thank you!!
Cut 20 ton or more of hardwood every year for the wood stove for 35 years and cleared a lot of building lots and right-of-ways too over the years. Never had much use for chain saw sharpeners. A new file in experienced hands is almost as quick as an electric sharpener and a whole lot more convenient out in the woods. Most loggers I've known over the years use a file. I learned from the owner of a saw shop who preferred using a file. Just last week a amateur brought me a saw and 4 chains that were cutting crooked. He brought along his Lowes $220 electric saw sharpener he'd been using to ask me if there was something wrong with it. I wish I'd have seen this video earlier because I would have made him watch it, you explained it all perfectly. I sharpened his chains with a file and had him watch and file the last chain by himself, then told him to sell the electric sharpener.
Interesting Dremel sharpener, I started out taking my chains in to be sharpened but noticed they didn't last long, followed a fell that showed how to sharpen correctly with a file, I tried it and wow, throwing shaving like wild and lasted much longer. It takes a little time but not bad but this Dremel sharpener looks worth a try! Thank you!
I've been holding the Dremel sharpener wrong all this time. I put the guide on top of the kickers (aka, drags, rakers, bumpers) not on the top of the cutter. Love you, your videos have helped me many times over!
Been using the Dremel sharpening system for many years. Being an old fool I'm living proof that it's the easiest, simplest, cheap and effective way I've ever come across to keep a chain sharp. Thanks for the confirmation!
@@everettrhay4855 A few quick passes is all it takes so it doesn't build up much heat. I sure can get my chains to last a lot long than having the "pros" do it. I took my saw to them once a long time ago. They took 2/3 of the medal off cutters of a brand new chain. I'll bet it got pretty hot too....
I learned how to sharpen a chain from a man I worked for back in the 80s. Always by hand. Takes time, but it works for me. I've done square filing, much harder to learn and square ground chain is rarely used except by loggers and arborists. You hit on a good point about making sure the depth gauge is correctly filed as well. Filing the gullets is important as well. I say, file the way you feel comfortable with. Really good video Bre. Oh, I may have to try the Dremel method.
Using a square file,and higher cost is for the Oregon chisel but chain used by loggers, along with skip tooth in fir and redwoods. You can use a round file on chisel bit,but it's put more hook in the tooth, if you're running a shorter bar and have the power. Now we have the anti- kick chain for those who need to be saved from themselves. Growing up Dad had a 430a Mac that I ran with heaven knows what size chain, the power head was 40lbs. First saw I blew up was a 977mac that I used cutting on redwood stumps. I used to watch fallers/ choppers file by hand as if it was nothing....and you never touched a fallers saw, and if you did it was their no 3-4 saw. Never cut on the downhill side of a tree, my uncle chewed my cousin out...ie swearing w German thrown in. I found ethanol shield and I'm trying that since ethanol free is 60 miles away. FWIW adding ( colored) water ,shaking,and allowing to settle does remove the ethanol. I still have more videos to watch....good information.
I've been using the dremmel for years and it is so easy. I always do one side first then the other. What can I say but the saw cuts like new after a dremmel treatment. Thanks Bre for the run down on all the bits so now I know how it works rather than just that it works.
I'm addicted to using the files. It's extremely satisfying to pay attention to the angle and see that burr form on the top plate edge when the point on the tip gets restored. Then it's truly sharp. Yeah, get the gullet a little too much, but I'm getting better.
I agree. After years of using different type filing guides I now use just a file. Clamp the saw bar in a vise, a few strokes pulling up on the last stroke. Cuts wood like crazy. A touch up stroke or two every time I use the saw, never has a chance to get dull
Ive been using those 2-n-1 sharpeners and it's been "iffy" if it works good enough. Some times I'll get a really sharp cut and other times, not so much. Like you said, when you position your body it's not the same angles or even the same method, to the left I'm pushing the file and to the right Im pulling and I know its a slightly different angle. Plus it takes what seems forever to sharpen on a 24" bar doing it by hand,
My uncle gave me an old pioneer chainsaw that would cut on an angle, I thought the bar was bent now I bet it was the chain like you said. Interesting video 😊
Check the rails of the bar to see if they are spread apart or if one rail is lower than the other from wear. That can make a cut lopsided. That can be fixed.
I bought a used saw and it cut curves , had the same size chains for another saw they cut straight . Turns out the fella was filing the heck out of the right side and barely touched the left side of the chains , teeth half gone compared to almost like new on other side . Some people are not mechanically inclined .
❤Thank you so much. My husband recently past and he always took care of the maintenance and sharpening the blades. I never learned how but he was a champ at it. Now I have 4 chainsaws to sharpen and had not a clue how. I do know how to use them though. So this is a great bit of info. I will get me the dremel sharpener. We do have all the other types too but I think the dremel accessory will work better for me. I am excited to get it and get them sharpened before spring.
Thank you for not just saying "do this magic thing and have a super sharp chain." Thank you for explaining what parts are important for making it sharp. I just moved into a 900+ acre conservation forest, and my sharpening understanding was lacking. This will make a HUGE difference!
I'm a 50-year weekend warrior chainsawer. Used every sharpening gadget known to man, in this video, or mentioned in this video or any other video. I mothballed all of them. I hand file every time because it's just as fast as any gadget and it does a better job. All the issues Bri showed in this vid were spot on. But one major one was not mentioned and I learned this from You Tuber Buckin' Billy Ray. GET THE GULLET OUT! It takes you from a "good" sharpening job to a "great" sharpening job. Trust me!
Yes, you got it without question, Buckin' Billy Ray's video on the "Gullet out" was experience talking to the max... That said, we give it up to Bri here, who did an outstanding job on explaining the details behind the chainsaw chain cutting parts, and how they work together in sync.....All good.
The dremel sharpens the tooth. Used that too. The attachment is for beginners. But again, the dremel cannot beat hand filing and getting the gullet out.
In short it mean's filing down in the gullet of the tooth link then coming back into the tooth to finish off the top and side plate so your final geometry is a mild "c" shape. The tooth has to have a little bit of a hook on it...not too much of a hook but one that you can clearly see. Search "Buckin' Billy Get the gullet". He has a bunch of videos on it. I encourage you to watch several of them to get what he's doing. It makes a very big difference on the performance of your chain.@@hanginlaundry360
Wow! Great info. I learned a lot. Just finished replacing fuel lines on an OLD Craftsman chain saw and want to sharpen the blade. I already had the Dremel attachment but did not remember how to use it until watching this video. Thanks!
Loved how you explained all that more than a little but surprised you didn’t mention the issues that can be coming from the bar itself and those remedies.
I was gifted a chainsaw about 8 years ago as a house warming gift when I moved onto a property with alot of trees. I knew how to be safe but really didn't pay much attention to the blades. I rarely used the saw (maybe once a year for a single day) so I was lazy and just bought a new blade each year. After a few years of that I decided to do it the right way and just bought a Stihl handheld sharpener.....man, it was night and day difference on my blade. Happy with the purchase and super easy to use.
Its good idea to give chain light dharpening (ond or two push by file,) every time you fill tanks. It takes couple minutes but made work faster and funnier.
Thanks Bren I haven't been on here for a couple m9nths ,but I do learn something that this 60 year old didn't know ! Have a blessed day to you n yours!
The Stihl 2 in 1 chain sharpener allows even an inexperienced guy like me to get a killer sharp chain!!! Look it up! Best chainsaw money I ever spent! Makes the right angles and even trims down the guides.
Excellent explanation. I learned to sharpen my own chains 45 years ago and have sharpened ever since. I like to inspect and just "touch up" the chain every tank of gas. A couple of light strokes of the file per tooth. Good excuse to put the saw down for a few minutes longer. Periodically look at the thickness of the wood chips in the saw dust to see if the drag tooth needs filed down a little. it doesn't take much. File the drag down to much and your engine may not have the power to cut that big of a bite out of the wood on a full bar length cut.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I was able to sharpen my chainsaw in less than 10 minutes with a cordless Dremel, and power through a number of heavy branches. Your explanation and demonstration was exactly what I needed. It's not hard if you get someone who is a good teacher.
To get the drags (rakers) right, a depth gauge is needed. The flat ones that lay on top of the bar are OK, but for a chain in the last half of life or a chain with uneven top plates, an indexed depth gauge is needed for best results. These will give you a correct raker height for an individual cutter. Stihl makes these for each chain pitch, but last time I checked , they were not sold in the US, go figure. Also, if the drivers are the correct thickness but the chain does not cut straight, check the bar groove width and profile - the bar might be too worn. An old logger trick was to put Husky chains (.058 ga) on worn Stihl bars (.050 ga) to take up the slack.
I know Stihl makes a "one and done" sharpening tool that uses 2 files and 2 guide rods to touch up both cutters and rakers at the same time. I just use a file guide, and if the chips start getting smaller than I like, I give the rakers a stroke with a file.
Looking at the tooth shape 11:08 after using the dremel, i wouldn't recommend anyone use it who is serious about cutting performance, looks like you destroyed the top plate under angle (now a ski jump not a nice hooked shallow chisel) 😂. People should really be using a raker gauge for the 'drags' as well, wierd you didn't advise that.
Sharpening the brains of many through RUclips. I like your video style and comprehensive instruction. Teaching my teenage sons small engine repair and your videos are helpful.
Stihl 2-in1 Easyfile best thing ever. Got a bench grinder that is good but it eats chains - the Stihl 2-in-1 sharpens like no other plus files the rakers at the same time (hence 2-in-1) - don't use anything else now - even sold the Bench Grinder! Dremel attachment may be OK but files will cost a fortune & what if you haven't a Dremel?
I've always been taught to flip guide bar over after 3 sharpening Never had a problem with straight cutting Also I sharpen my chain 3 strokes after 2 Fuel refill Works for me Keep up your great content
I have used a round saw file for the past 60 years. To be able to sharpen the chain properly it is necessary for know what a sharp tooth looks like and when to shorten the drag teeth. This comes with experience and growing up cutting logs and fire wood. So simple when you understand.
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Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
can you list your pick of the best hand held chainsaws?
Great video - thank you.
Thanks for telling me you don't know how to properly sharpen a Chainsaw. 😂
Always use a Gauge on the Depth gages to prevent damage to the drive links, never Eyeball them!
@@carrollsanders9376 I don't use em either. I intentionally take my rakers down lower than spec. Never have an issue. Except having a saw that RIPS!
My dad used to have his chains commercially sharpened at the local farm supply place and they would grind the crap out of them. He was lucky to get 4 maybe 5 sharpenings because they cut so deep. Back in the mid 70's he bought a Foley Belsaw little sharpener and I was tasked with learning to sharpen chains. I quickly discovered the teeth just barely needed to be touched to put the edge back on them and they cut like new again. Chain life jumped dramatically and pretty soon I was sharpening all my dads friends chains as well.
You took the words right out of my mouth I have chains that are 20+ years old using a grinder the same way
That's funny
Thanks. I bought on sale electric tree limb trimming saw to cut limbs of a neighbor's tree that hang into my yard over the common fence.
This will help me to understand what I need to do if I need to sharpen the chain. I have already purchased oil for it, haven't used it yet.
@@DS75921
20 years doesn't mean anything. Do you sharpen once per month or once per decade?
@@feez357
Well that doesn't mean anything either... Do you use your chainsaw once per day or once per season? Do you cut balsa wood or something that seems like steel?
Learned more about chain sharpening from you in 12 minutes than in over 35 years from the so-called pros!
:). I hate to admit it but I did too! 👋👋👋👍
Been trying to get someone to explain it to me, she actually did
ditto
Came to say something similar
Lady, you are an angel for teaching the masses without pushing your services.
I think that's a key factor in getting 400K subs and growing :-0)
yup, she's awesome and has a passion for teaching.
Ma’am that was like a sunset...beautiful!
I've been sharpening saws since I was a teenager. I'm 68 now. You make things so easy to understand. Even I learned some things. Thanks for the video!!
Best explanation on the anatomy of a chain I've ever seen.
Best example of what to do on RUclips. Thanks for the close ups. Most these videos blah blah blah.
This lady knows how to explain like a good teacher
She goes gangster with the lock blade! Have to say Chickanic is one of the best how to channels!
Thank you so much for creating this video!! ITS EXCELLENT! I've been watching RUclips videos again and again in order to learn how to properly sharpen my chains. You're the first person to really show the specific parts of the chain, how to sharpen it correctly and the science of how a chainsaw cuts through the wood. I mean, Wow! Very very helpful! Thanks again and have an awesome weekend!
One of the best sharpening videos I have watched, and I have watched many. Thank you.
Finally -- someone explained how the chain cuts down to the real specifics. Thank you.
This is one of the most informative videos on chainsaw chains I have seen. Thanks for posting!
VERY WELL EXPLAINED!!! Great job Bre!!! Thank you!!😀
What a blessing for the man who has a beautiful long-haired capable Chickanic.
Great video. I worked on a farm when I was a kid and the old timers (they may have actually been younger than I am now but they looked to be somewhere close to 150 at the time) would give the chain a lick or two with the file during every break. We did a lot of Locust fence post that were very hard on an edge. Keeping the chain sharp prevents bigger problems that require more aggressive sharpening.
After working several years as a logger when I was young, I still sharpen my saws my hand with a file. I can get the angles pretty good just by eye and I can sharpen a chain in 10 minutes or so generally and can sharpen in a vise on my bench or on a stump in the woods. No need for power tools. Simple and easy.
FULLY AGREE WITH YOU HANDFILLING IS THE WAY TO GO ! ALL ELECTRIC SHARPENING HEATS THE CHAINS TO MUCH ÀND SOFTENS THE METAL !
Yeh I agree you can't beat a file sharpening
I have been very happy with the Timberline Sharpening system for the past 5 years Sharpening my 7 saw fleet.
Great video! I've done this stuff FOREVER and know everything anyone would ever want to know about saw chain and sharpening. You totally understand what is going on and it's refreshing to hear how you explained this all perfectly! Always a joy to watch your videos. :)
Thanks 👍
Awesome video - first time my chainsaw started cutting crooked I thought I broke something. This explains everything very clearly. Now I need a new gadget for my Dremel 😊.
I Learned to sharpen by my grandpa, he owned a sawmill and was a sawyer. I Later spent two years with the forest circus. A lot of good knowledge was passed down. Different angles, different sharpeners, different guides. Even worked with a guy who worked for Oregon in developing chains.
Great video. I love my $700 bench grinder, my handheld rotary grinders , Timberline, but my favorite is my Stihl 2in1. Angles and depths are always consistent and it catches the rakers every time.
No matter what I use I’ll slowly catch them points with a loose file to perfect them and debur the edges.
@@paulmussey6424My son gave me a chain sharpener from Stihl i was to proud to except it an told him thanks but i like doing it by hand and it would get ruined in my tool box for the chain saw . Im 60 now it was last year he gave it ,but I can barely do any more cutting an I just bought a new chain place i brought it to said I needed a new bar because i told them the chain was flopping left n right but my old chain was the problem so I said no just a new chain n file please 😅 Glad I saw this video because I've wondered why it would also curve when cutting now I know with out a doubt.
Sure wish you had mentioned how fast chains dull when cutting through dirt-caked logs or allowing the bar to contact the ground. Otherwise, you hit ALL the important points. Good job - again!
Everytime I watch your show I learn something,thanks !
The best manual method by far is the Stihl 2 in 1 Filing Guide because they knock down the rakers/depth gaugers at the same time. Super easy. I have all 3 sizes.
This. I have a power sharpener, which is fast and easy, but my chains cut the best after I go over them by hand with the Stihl 2 in 1
They are made by Pferd, but Stihl puts their name on them. Pferd are the same thing and are cheaper.
I also have the 2 in 1 files. They can't be beat.
I use the 2-in-1 to touch up the chain after I have hand-filed it where I first file the gullet with a round file, then straighten the diagonal front and the top of the tooth with a flat fille and then resharpen the gullet with the round file.
Or that's how I do it in on my two Stiga saws with relatively short bars. But recently I got a Husky 572 with a 28 inch bar and the X85 full chisel chain, and since the vendor didn't have the 2-in-1 for that chain, I got the combined chain- and raker guide tool from Husky in stead. Haven't tried it yet because it was too cold to stand and file it in my unheated workshop in -6 Centigrade, so in the meantime I improvised a small workbench in my boiler room and also installed working lights. So tomorrow I'll get to it so the Husky will be ready to cut again.
Edit: The chain is called C85, not X85. The X belongs to the Husky 572 XPG name.
😂😅
It's so refreshing to find a tutorial video DONE RIGHT! So often they don't edit the parts where they wander over to the toolbox to get the tool they forgot they need, or wander off-topic. Yours all always very concise and informative. Kudos to you!
I struggled for years trying to sharpen my chains with limited success. A couple years ago I bought one of the Stihl chain sharpening guides and it does a great job taking almost all the guesswork out of sharpening. They are a bit pricy but well worth it IMHO. As always, YMMV.
The ultra-closeup shots are what make this tutorial golden compared to other sharpening videos. I can see and duplicate EXACTLY what you are doing.
Thank You very much Lovely Lady!
Doing most of my sharpening in the field while falling trees or cutting lengths for firewood I've noticed a lot of "crooked" cuts happen because of how people hold their chainsaw. While keeping my son and his friends from getting their hand away from the kick back bar, I had to let them practice and get the muscle memory of holding the saw straight.
I build ergonomic furniture and desk sets so measuring folks for comfort sometimes means correcting bad habits. Posture is important in so many aspects of daily life and cutting firewood or falling trees is no exception. Good Luck!
Those comments go for sharpening also!!
With Respect, You all are in my prayers
Hoka Hey
Benn doing it with the Dremel for a decade. Thanks for getting it out there.
I love my Harbor Freight chain grinder. This is what I did: I screwed the grinder to a 2x4 stood on edge. Now when I need to sharpen a chain, I just pulled the grinder out of the cabinet and drop the 2x4 in the vise. Snug the vise and you are ready to sharpen chains. When done, it goes back in the cabinet until next time.
I never find your videos dull to watch. Always seem to sharpen my skills when I view them thank you!
A very nice explanation and demonstration of proper sharpening. One thing left out was a bar worn uneven causing curved cutting. Easy fix if you have a stationary belt sander. Be sure to set it to 90 degrees then lightly sand until even on both rails.
The Dremel attachment is the best thing I ever bought for my chain saw. Cheap, not complicated and quick.
You are a wealth of knowledge, I didn't realize how wrong I had been sharpening mine
Now that's straight to the point! No jock intended. Time is of the essence. You "teach and not preach. Good Stuff!!!!
This lady is classy. Love watching her and like the subjects too.
I have found over 35 years that one or two swipes on each tooth with a hand file each time I fill the fuel and oil keeps the chain nicely and avoids damage building up.
Great tips! I do my drags about every 3rd teeth sharpening. My saw takes off ribbons after that!
Love it! Spent way too much of my life cheaping out and trying to hand sharpen my chain. I always cut curves. Last year I finally popped for the dremmel kit and it fixed all my cutting issues.
Thanks Chickanic, very very informative, love the way you explain things.
Fantastic ! I have been leery at trying my own sharpening, until now !! Thank you and all the best.
Good morning Bre, great video. This will help people a lot. I am surprised that you did not mention using a depth gauge for setting the drag height. IMO this is essential, Another great product you did not cover is the Sthil/Pferd 2 in 1.
I started working in a chainsaw/ lawnmower shop in 1970 when I was 20 years old, back when McCulloch was king of the chainsaws. Over the following 54 years I have sharpened thousands of chainsaw chains.
The thing that was brought to mind by watching your sharping video is how little chainsaw sharpening has changed over the years. We are still sharpening them the same way as back then with one exception.
Some still try to sharpen with files and it is still a slow, tedious way to sharpen. The big change is the wheels on our electric chainsaw sharping machines.
The old standard was the composite mineral wheels that had to be constantly cleaned, reshaped and continually decreased in size as they worn down. This caused constant changes to chainsaw teeth angles that affected their sharpness.
You mentioned briefly you were now using a diamond sharpening wheel which is an improvement in chainsaw sharpening accuracy.
My biggest change in sharpening is the use of a CBN sharpening wheel on my grinder which is harder than diamonds and never changes shape. It is amazing how much sharper my chainsaw chains are now after sharpening. These sharpening discs have only come on the market in the last 5 years and are new to most chainsaw operators. At $75.00 each they are not cheap but last many years without replacement. They can be obtained from a company called “Woodturner Wonders” on their web site. Keep up the good work, your videos are a real help to chainsaw owners looking to maintain their saws.
George
Specialty Lumber & Logging
Quinlan, Texas
See us on RUclips at “George Wood of Texas”
Learned valuable information once again and that has to do with how to read the bar correctly and what the actual difference is between the similar chains. Your video is the only one I've seen that actually shows and explains not only up close and personal of chain sharpening but how to read the bar info. Your head and shoulders above everyone else who does these kinds of videos. That's why I love watching you and info and teaching you deliver. 👏👏👏👏👍👊✌️🙃🇨🇦
I'm a rookie to chainsaw sharpening, but I've found the Stihl 2 in 1 to be a very useful tool.
I've seen a lot of chain sharpening videos, but this is the first one that has at least inferred that you need to lift up when sharpening. It makes since, since the underside of the actual blade is where all the business happens.
I absolutely agree with you. I still can't sharpen a chain. But I'm the guy who chew's his links up with the file because I've always pushed down.
@@bradlane3662 Check out the Timberline outfit
I’ve found her videos the most educational out of all. Thanks for making it easy for all of us who wanna learn!
Best sharping video EVER!
The Stihl 2 in 1 is a game changer. It files the rakers alongside the tooth. 2 or 3 swipes on each tooth when you need a touch up, or after each tank of gas/bar oil - and right back to work
Yup got one of these and it solves all these problems
I pull toward me, much like Japanese wood planes, it engages the metal better-try it
I have one of those as well. I don't have a wood stove, so I only use my chainsaw a few times a year. That means I don't get much practice at sharpening the blade. The 2 in one does a great job and is perfect for someone that just needs a chainsaw every now and then.
Yeah, I love that tool, as well. If you don't cut a lot and don't need to sharpen chains every week or every day, it's a great way to get it done.
@@jasonbroom7147 ??, I touch up chain every tank of fuel (while it’s cooling down to refuel)
Thank you for posting this. This is the most educational video on this subject.
Good video, very informative. I do like my Harbor Freight chain sharpener. Good enough for the occasional user. I bolted mine to a 2X4, then clamp it to the bench when I need to use it.
I just learned more about chain saw sharpening than I ever knew before. Can I go back about forty yrs and start over. Thanks chickanic
Better than the Canadian "get the gullet."
RE:"Can I go back about forty yrs and start over"? Yes. Take me with you. We're gonna start A LOT of stuff over!
Oh my God. You are very good in what you doing. God bless you. Beautiful and hard work woman. 💜 Roger here 🇨🇦. From Brazil live in Canada.
Why blaspheme dude?
Nice video. Don't forget to check the bar rails for uneven wear or the "ditch."
Your husband's a lucky guy! Not only can you fix most everything and share interests but those stone washed cut off jean shorts in the beginning made me miss what you had your foot on three times! lol Wow! You have done a great job with content as well!
Great job. I learned something new. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you love the way you broke it down and explained how the chain actually cut I had never been told that breakdown and it helps tremendously to know what does what and you explained it so well thank you
I watched many RUclips videos about sharpening chainsaw chain. This is the best one. Thanks.
So vindicating having a pro come out with a video on the method I already use! The dremel bits work a treat, and get it done quick. I can sharpen mid work load and Im only down a few minutes :)
One other reason for a curved cut could be that the bar is worn unevenly on either side of the groove. A way to prevent this is to flip the bar about every other time you do a full chain sharpening. Generally not needed when doing a quick chain cutter dressing in the field. Always a good thing to check the rakers before starting a good days work in the firewood pile. And keep those logs clean. Just a little bit of sand, dirt or stone will almost immediately kill the best sharpened saw chain. Hope this helps!
The groove in the bar can open up, there is a tool that will roll pinch it back to specs.
That is an excellent point. Also the bars do wear out, and sometimes have to be replaced.
Great point, and I was surprised she didn't mention it. I always flipped my bar back and forth often to keep it wearing evenly.
IV had to true up a lot of bars in my years as a Stihl tech.
@@MrGlenferd Isn't it cheaper to just replace the bar?
I wish the Chickanic lived in Brisbane as I’d love to be her apprentice & do it for free - I’m 65 years old & run a Lawn & Garden Care Business - in Brisbane & love her work & videos - I’ve just subscribed - thank you for making my life easier 👍🙏
Finally someone with great camera views and knowledge. Your video is the best I have seen describing sharpening the chain. I am training myself on chain saw care, mods, chain sharpening, etc. New blades seem to dull and heat up faster without checking them for flaws. I want a chain to cut several times and stay sharp. Your video has showed me what I was doing wrong. Dremel is a great tool for sharpening with the least effort which makes it way better than a file. Thank you. Now to the oiling system. lol.
You are amazing and you have the luckiest man on the planet.
I'm surprised to see you here. I thought you had gone out of business. Good to see you.
Thank you for the great information. I have an electric bench top sharpener and several hand sharpeners because I cold never get it quite right. I never thought about the blade tip before which is why I probably have been disappointed in my sharpening skills. Going to the garage after coffee and giving your recommendations a try.
BUckn' Billy Ray has the best chainsaw sharpening tutorials.
Buckin is a Canadian logger in his life . 😊
@@leonardryan8723 I don't know what that means, but I'll agree with you lol.
That only works if you are Canadian.
@@58dorsett I am Canadian and still don't know. Never heard the term "in his life" before.
@@TheBeatenPaths He probably has a universality edumacation.
OMG girl, you cracked my ass up! love the knife blade analogy. I'm a woman wordworker and I know the uphill climb it is to explain how to do something safely and correctly. Excellent video.
Thank you!!
I use the Stihl 2 in 1, soo nice, sharpens all areas an knocks down the raker…😁😁
Same here. I bought the Pferd sharpener which is the same as the Stihl and it paid for itself the first year.
Cut 20 ton or more of hardwood every year for the wood stove for 35 years and cleared a lot of building lots and right-of-ways too over the years. Never had much use for chain saw sharpeners. A new file in experienced hands is almost as quick as an electric sharpener and a whole lot more convenient out in the woods. Most loggers I've known over the years use a file. I learned from the owner of a saw shop who preferred using a file.
Just last week a amateur brought me a saw and 4 chains that were cutting crooked. He brought along his Lowes $220 electric saw sharpener he'd been using to ask me if there was something wrong with it. I wish I'd have seen this video earlier because I would have made him watch it, you explained it all perfectly. I sharpened his chains with a file and had him watch and file the last chain by himself, then told him to sell the electric sharpener.
Interesting Dremel sharpener, I started out taking my chains in to be sharpened but noticed they didn't last long, followed a fell that showed how to sharpen correctly with a file, I tried it and wow, throwing shaving like wild and lasted much longer. It takes a little time but not bad but this Dremel sharpener looks worth a try!
Thank you!
I've been holding the Dremel sharpener wrong all this time. I put the guide on top of the kickers (aka, drags, rakers, bumpers) not on the top of the cutter. Love you, your videos have helped me many times over!
Been using the Dremel sharpening system for many years. Being an old fool I'm living proof that it's the easiest, simplest, cheap and effective way I've ever come across to keep a chain sharp. Thanks for the confirmation!
When introducing heat to your cutting geometry, you change the Rockwell C scale hardness. Too hard and the brittle edges may chip. Just as a heads up.
@@everettrhay4855 A few quick passes is all it takes so it doesn't build up much heat. I sure can get my chains to last a lot long than having the "pros" do it. I took my saw to them once a long time ago. They took 2/3 of the medal off cutters of a brand new chain. I'll bet it got pretty hot too....
I learned how to sharpen a chain from a man I worked for back in the 80s. Always by hand. Takes time, but it works for me. I've done square filing, much harder to learn and square ground chain is rarely used except by loggers and arborists. You hit on a good point about making sure the depth gauge is correctly filed as well. Filing the gullets is important as well. I say, file the way you feel comfortable with. Really good video Bre. Oh, I may have to try the Dremel method.
I have been using used 40 w oil from my tractor .. never had a problem. Am I just lucky. My Husky is 25 yrs old , runs and starts easy
That is how I learned, I still do it that way. I tried those grinder things. Junk.
Using a square file,and higher cost is for the Oregon chisel but chain used by loggers, along with skip tooth in fir and redwoods. You can use a round file on chisel bit,but it's put more hook in the tooth, if you're running a shorter bar and have the power. Now we have the anti- kick chain for those who need to be saved from themselves.
Growing up Dad had a 430a Mac that I ran with heaven knows what size chain, the power head was 40lbs. First saw I blew up was a 977mac that I used cutting on redwood stumps. I used to watch fallers/ choppers file by hand as if it was nothing....and you never touched a fallers saw, and if you did it was their no 3-4 saw. Never cut on the downhill side of a tree, my uncle chewed my cousin out...ie swearing w German thrown in.
I found ethanol shield and I'm trying that since ethanol free is 60 miles away.
FWIW adding ( colored) water ,shaking,and allowing to settle does remove the ethanol.
I still have more videos to watch....good information.
I've been using the dremmel for years and it is so easy. I always do one side first then the other. What can I say but the saw cuts like new after a dremmel treatment.
Thanks Bre for the run down on all the bits so now I know how it works rather than just that it works.
I'm addicted to using the files. It's extremely satisfying to pay attention to the angle and see that burr form on the top plate edge when the point on the tip gets restored. Then it's truly sharp. Yeah, get the gullet a little too much, but I'm getting better.
I agree. After years of using different type filing guides I now use just a file. Clamp the saw bar in a vise, a few strokes pulling up on the last stroke. Cuts wood like crazy. A touch up stroke or two every time I use the saw, never has a chance to get dull
Amen bro.
We need beers.
Australia
Ive been using those 2-n-1 sharpeners and it's been "iffy" if it works good enough. Some times I'll get a really sharp cut and other times, not so much. Like you said, when you position your body it's not the same angles or even the same method, to the left I'm pushing the file and to the right Im pulling and I know its a slightly different angle. Plus it takes what seems forever to sharpen on a 24" bar doing it by hand,
My uncle gave me an old pioneer chainsaw that would cut on an angle, I thought the bar was bent now I bet it was the chain like you said. Interesting video 😊
Check the rails of the bar to see if they are spread apart or if one rail is lower than the other from wear. That can make a cut lopsided. That can be fixed.
@@glenspryszak6005 correct... 99.9 % of the time its the bar not the chain
I bought a used saw and it cut curves , had the same size chains for another saw they cut straight . Turns out the fella was filing the heck out of the right side and barely touched the left side of the chains , teeth half gone compared to almost like new on other side .
Some people are not mechanically inclined .
Lady thanks a lot for the schooling on sharing chainsaw the way it should be. You are a great teacher.. thank a lot.😊😊😊😊
Nice illustrations. Thanks.
Used a Dremmel with a guide attachment today and got the chain back to like new sharpness. Thank you for all of the useful info!
❤Thank you so much. My husband recently past and he always took care of the maintenance and sharpening the blades. I never learned how but he was a champ at it. Now I have 4 chainsaws to sharpen and had not a clue how. I do know how to use them though. So this is a great bit of info. I will get me the dremel sharpener. We do have all the other types too but I think the dremel accessory will work better for me. I am excited to get it and get them sharpened before spring.
Look in to the stihl 2 in 1 chain sharpener it’s the easiest and the best does the blade and the racker all in one literally 4 passes on each blade
@@justlearning6371 Thank you. I will do that.
Wow!! Very impressive story and individual!!!! BEST OF SUCCESS!!!😀
Thank you for not just saying "do this magic thing and have a super sharp chain." Thank you for explaining what parts are important for making it sharp. I just moved into a 900+ acre conservation forest, and my sharpening understanding was lacking. This will make a HUGE difference!
I'm a 50-year weekend warrior chainsawer. Used every sharpening gadget known to man, in this video, or mentioned in this video or any other video. I mothballed all of them. I hand file every time because it's just as fast as any gadget and it does a better job. All the issues Bri showed in this vid were spot on. But one major one was not mentioned and I learned this from You Tuber Buckin' Billy Ray. GET THE GULLET OUT! It takes you from a "good" sharpening job to a "great" sharpening job. Trust me!
Yes, you got it without question, Buckin' Billy Ray's video on the "Gullet out" was experience talking to the max... That said, we give it up to Bri here, who did an outstanding job on explaining the details behind the chainsaw chain cutting parts, and how they work together in sync.....All good.
The dremel sharpens the tooth. Used that too. The attachment is for beginners. But again, the dremel cannot beat hand filing and getting the gullet out.
Thumbs up on the gullet man buckin' billie ray.
Can you please explain what getting the gullet means ? Thanks!
In short it mean's filing down in the gullet of the tooth link then coming back into the tooth to finish off the top and side plate so your final geometry is a mild "c" shape. The tooth has to have a little bit of a hook on it...not too much of a hook but one that you can clearly see. Search "Buckin' Billy Get the gullet". He has a bunch of videos on it. I encourage you to watch several of them to get what he's doing. It makes a very big difference on the performance of your chain.@@hanginlaundry360
Wow! Great info. I learned a lot. Just finished replacing fuel lines on an OLD Craftsman chain saw and want to sharpen the blade. I already had the Dremel attachment but did not remember how to use it until watching this video. Thanks!
Love your TIPS
Never gave a second thought about the leading tip! Thanks, saves me a LOT of re-do, re-do, re-do instill it just works out!
As long as you use a raker gauge (depth gauge) the size of the teeth do not matter if a the rakers are the same depth. 😉
Loved how you explained all that more than a little but surprised you didn’t mention the issues that can be coming from the bar itself and those remedies.
I was gifted a chainsaw about 8 years ago as a house warming gift when I moved onto a property with alot of trees. I knew how to be safe but really didn't pay much attention to the blades. I rarely used the saw (maybe once a year for a single day) so I was lazy and just bought a new blade each year. After a few years of that I decided to do it the right way and just bought a Stihl handheld sharpener.....man, it was night and day difference on my blade. Happy with the purchase and super easy to use.
Its good idea to give chain light dharpening (ond or two push by file,) every time you fill tanks. It takes couple minutes but made work faster and funnier.
Thanks Bren I haven't been on here for a couple m9nths ,but I do learn something that this 60 year old didn't know ! Have a blessed day to you n yours!
The Stihl 2 in 1 chain sharpener allows even an inexperienced guy like me to get a killer sharp chain!!! Look it up! Best chainsaw money I ever spent! Makes the right angles and even trims down the guides.
Excellent explanation. I learned to sharpen my own chains 45 years ago and have sharpened ever since. I like to inspect and just "touch up" the chain every tank of gas. A couple of light strokes of the file per tooth. Good excuse to put the saw down for a few minutes longer. Periodically look at the thickness of the wood chips in the saw dust to see if the drag tooth needs filed down a little. it doesn't take much. File the drag down to much and your engine may not have the power to cut that big of a bite out of the wood on a full bar length cut.
Glad to see that you survived the snowstorms. Excellent presentation as usual.
Great for real. She does research and organized her sequence so it flows and keeps the audience 🪝ed
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I was able to sharpen my chainsaw in less than 10 minutes with a cordless Dremel, and power through a number of heavy branches. Your explanation and demonstration was exactly what I needed. It's not hard if you get someone who is a good teacher.
To get the drags (rakers) right, a depth gauge is needed. The flat ones that lay on top of the bar are OK, but for a chain in the last half of life or a chain with uneven top plates, an indexed depth gauge is needed for best results. These will give you a correct raker height for an individual cutter. Stihl makes these for each chain pitch, but last time I checked , they were not sold in the US, go figure. Also, if the drivers are the correct thickness but the chain does not cut straight, check the bar groove width and profile - the bar might be too worn. An old logger trick was to put Husky chains (.058 ga) on worn Stihl bars (.050 ga) to take up the slack.
I know Stihl makes a "one and done" sharpening tool that uses 2 files and 2 guide rods to touch up both cutters and rakers at the same time. I just use a file guide, and if the chips start getting smaller than I like, I give the rakers a stroke with a file.
Actually the index depth gauge from still is sold inside the U.S. , But you have to ask your dealer to order it in for you.
@@kenbrown2808 Stihl 2-in-1. A very good tool actually, that's what l use
@@hime273 yes, but with practice, it becomes pretty easy.
That was a genuine public service! Thank you so much for the explanation. 👍👍👍😊
Looking at the tooth shape 11:08 after using the dremel, i wouldn't recommend anyone use it who is serious about cutting performance, looks like you destroyed the top plate under angle (now a ski jump not a nice hooked shallow chisel) 😂. People should really be using a raker gauge for the 'drags' as well, wierd you didn't advise that.
Sharpening the brains of many through RUclips. I like your video style and comprehensive instruction. Teaching my teenage sons small engine repair and your videos are helpful.
Stihl 2-in1 Easyfile best thing ever. Got a bench grinder that is good but it eats chains - the Stihl 2-in-1 sharpens like no other plus files the rakers at the same time (hence 2-in-1) - don't use anything else now - even sold the Bench Grinder! Dremel attachment may be OK but files will cost a fortune & what if you haven't a Dremel?
I've always been taught to flip guide bar over after 3 sharpening
Never had a problem with straight cutting
Also I sharpen my chain 3 strokes after 2 Fuel refill
Works for me
Keep up your great content
Ha , my new ringtone is her saying "pretty nice tip, pretty nice tip, pretty nice tip ".😅
I have used a round saw file for the past 60 years. To be able to sharpen the chain properly it is necessary for know what a sharp tooth looks like and when to shorten the drag teeth. This comes with experience and growing up cutting logs and fire wood. So simple when you understand.