How To Chainsaw Like a Boss. This Could Save Your Life.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 4 май 2024
- Chainsaw tips, tricks, and techniques every saw owner should know! This video builds on my previous chainsaw videos that are listed below:
Guide to felling dead trees:
• No Nonsense Guide to F...
Full Chainsawing playlist:
• Chainsawing 101
No Nonsense Guide to Tree Felling:
• No Nonsense Guide to T...
No Nonsense Guide to Chainsaw Sharpening:
• No Nonsense Guide to C...
How to Chainsaw Like a Boss:
• How To Chainsaw Like a...
Recommendations of chainsaw and tree equipment in my Amazon store.
My Amazon Affiliate Storefront:
www.amazon.com/shop/farmcraft101
MERCH STORE!:
www.farmcraft101.com
Patreon:
/ farmcraft101
Buy me a coffee:
www.buymeacoffee.com/farmcraf...
Etsy Store:
www.etsy.com/shop/MadeByFarmC...
Facebook:
/ farmcraft101
0:00 Introduction
1:06 Gauging a tree's lean
1:50 Roping & limbing to control fall
2:24 Conventional Wedge & Humboldt Wedge
3:06 Chaps and personal protective equipment
4:20 Cutting a Humboldt wedge
8:21 Sloped back-cuts
10:55 Wedges in back-cut
11:31 Dropping the tree
13:22 Escape route
14:51 Cutting up a dropped tree
16:28 limb cutting technique
19:29 Cutting up the tree
23:55 Kickback and freeing a stuck saw
28:35 Cutting main trunk
32:42 Cant hook demonstration
33:36 Tricky section with tips
35:17 Stump
37:49 Limbing with a pole saw
40:32 Outro 
Хобби
Mid-70s and retired now, but logged and fought forest fires for decades. You're certainly right about sawing and felling being dangerous. Not quite as dangerous as being on Alec Baldwin movie set, but close.
Ought to make it mandatory. That you carry a million dollar insurance policy to be within 400 ft of him
@@daleslover2771 Maybe he carry that much insurance to walk around in public.
@@PornstarJerome 👍 life gets damn cheap around idiots...
awww, someone got their feelings hurt watching SNL. Sorry buddy. Trump is gonna be ok, he will enjoy jail
@@Horizontreecare NO ONE is more sensitive on the Internet than a Trump supporter.
I had been cutting firewood to help a buddy for 5 or 6 years after retiring. After my brother mentioned using chaps and their benefits, I bought a pair. I didn't have them on for more than an hour when I brushed my leg with a running saw in a moment of inattention. I was a long way from town in a place with no cell service. Maybe a bit overstated, but I'm pretty sure that the chaps were some of the best money I've ever spent.
Our family used to have two small farms, and often we had a working-bee where all of us males turn up, work from dawn until about 1 and then the women have a big meal and it is a very effective way to get things done. Plus, there is usually firewood to take home.
One year my brother Steven had had a very profitable year in his business, so he spent about US$ 3000 on safety equipment, all sorts of things we had never had new, and things we had NEVER had.
Everyone got REALLY good gloves, chaps, REALLY good helmets that had ear protectors, plexan and mesh face guards, he had fire extinguishers, a couple of really good medical kits . . .
And we were really grateful less than two hours later. A felled tree hit a heavy fallen branch, twisted as it fell and hit our eldest brother right across the side of his head, he would have been dead for sure, it spun him around like a tumble dryer. He wasn't happy, and the helmet was a right-off but he survived.
And right as we were finishing, getting careless, a nephew reached out with the tip of a saw that was too heavy for him, to cut a small branch, *Clack* it rebounded the blade up and straight into the face shield and we got to see why the mesh is outside the plexan, stopped the blade dead. He just got a bloody nose. Would for sure have cut his head in half.
yup save bleed out
especially for the newbs. the chain saw is a wicked tool, unforgiving .
@@bdobson1616 You can't pull your punch with a chainsaw, for sure.
Your a lucky man my next buy will be chaps after reading you comment here.
I don't want to sound like a smart Alex , but it seems to me that the " Good money spent" was you listening to and acting on good advice. Good job.
My husband cut trees for over 20 years. He tried bringing the bottom half of a tree down with wedges. Why? I have no idea. He always cut wedges out first. Tree slid down and came back on him. He was killed instantly. Only 49. Listen to this man. NEVER SHOVE WEDGES IN A TREE TO BRING IT DOWN!! That was 2 1/2 years ago. Feels like yesterday.
Wedges are necessary many times
Uh...professionals do this all the time
Im so sorry
Sorry for your loss.
They are called felling wedges for a reason woman.
As someone who has only dropped three trees before, the tips in this video help me see where my past issues came from and what not to do in the future. Really appreciate the time and effort you put into this!
Great video. I used to clear lots for new homes in Michigan when I was 17 years old, in 1975,only wearing shorts, sneakers and the saw... What safety equipment??😅 We used to put a wood stake in the ground where I wanted the tree to fall, used to be pretty good, as I see here must've been doing it wrong cause I always cut on a angle from top down, instead of horizontal. I grew up with a chainsaw in my hands without any instructions. Made😊 it out alive😅. Chased many hurricanes in s Florida with saws jn hands. Old School baby!
@@rayray8840been there and done that before cleaned up after nine hurricanes and two ice storms and one wild fire that was in my home town .
Regarding escaping from the falling tree: Here in Sweden they teach chainsaw course students to make it a habit to use the chain brake as soon as they stop cutting. If you stumble and fall onto the running saw, nothing dangerous will happen.
same here in Canada. if you're taking more than 2 steps the brake should be on
We were tought to clear your escape routes both ways
Isn't it better to use the brake and then drop the chainsaw? That way, if you do trip, the saw won't be anywhere near you. A leg or arm is more expensive than a basic chainsaw.
@@hauntedshadowslegacy2826 I was once about 10 feet up in the tree when it came back at me, I pitched the saw as far as I could one way and jumped the other way, all ended up fine, neither the saw or me was harmed
This is 2nd nature to me. For safety, I always apply that brake.
The “best” part of your videos is your willingness to show your mistakes, such as when you were not happy with the results of your first attempt to cut the wedge from the base of the tree. Taking time to explain why you were not happy with those results was actually much more informative than if you had made the first cuts exactly right and then moved on to the next step.
Why do you put quotation marks on best
The best way to learn is through mistakes
@@penegakkeadilanpembasmikej5022 but not your own.. because some mistakes kill..
@@bele28
Some not all.
Its called life.
LIVE n learn.
Fear will get u in trouble just like being over confident.
I completely agree with taking time to show and explain a mistake. That alone adds so much more info
I enjoyed that moment where the camera got hit-- the camera looked as if it was far back enough, or off to the side enough that it wouldn't get hit, but then the tree went, "Surprise!" and the camera went spinning.
It's a good reminder that if you think you're far back enough, keep going.
The whole video has excellent ‘failures’ to represent the risk
Good effort. Don't keep cutting when the tree starts to fall, you run the risk of having your hinge fail before you want it to. If you want to reduce splitting, gut your hinge from the front, leave two pegs of hinge, then do your back cut.
There was a visible change in the bark texture where you were deciding to out your back cut. There is an imperfection there and that could have been a point where the trunk might have split, it didn't, but once it fell you could see the internal change in that area as indicated by the weird bark on the outside.
Great video. Another tip - I now make sure I have a peice of chalk with me and draw the wedge and the cut before I start cutting. Makes it a LOT easier to see where you need to cut.
Exactly. This works even better with leaners, snags, and other related widow makers, for getting the job done, and impressing the uninitiated.
Chalk is also a nice way of marking up a log to get fairly same length of wood cuts.
As a seasoned tree chopper I give this a thumbs up. Only thing you forgot is an important one... always check for wildlife up the tree before you begin. I'm had a large porcupine almost land on me, and once a baby sasquatch which turned into quite the scary ordeal so i always advise looking up and checking best you can !
I cut a tree that had bees in it. I learned the fact while cutting.
What I learned was hire a professional. 😂
A baby sasquatch???
Been climbing and cutting trees for 35 years. This was a good refresher on some things and new information on others. Enjoying your videos! Thx!
My former bossman had been climbing and cutting for 44 years when he passed in 2021. .
I was his main hand for the last 12 of those years and learned alot from him.
Was able to go off with my own small crew of people under him and do jobs that didn't require climbing when we would get a hurricane or tornado come through down here.
He was still climbing at 65 when necessary or when our climber wasn't there.
With the money from hurricane Laura cleanup, we got a bucket truck with a 75 foot boom and he was actually in it cutting when he had a stroke in Oct 2021.
Miss the hell outta that guy.
Seeing your comment and how long you been climbing made me think of him.
All that experience, you guys know everything about the job.
I know absolutely nothing about tree cutting, watched the whole video and found it amazing. Common sense is not so common to a city guy with little to no tree cutting experience. At 70 yrs old I'm not planning to start now. Thanks so much for such an informative instructional video! 👍👍👍
Love the fact that you don't hide your mistakes. You make them, explain them and then offer advice on how to correct them.
I don't cut professionally and only have a couple big, hardwood trees under my belt, so I know nothing about cutting compared to my knowledge of the saw itself.
Just a diyer with a major in mechanics.
Really amazed by and appreciate the knowledge you share for free for guys like me.
making mistakes can get you killed.There is no room for mistakes in my opinion.
@@GoldSeals Seems like his mistake was made with intent. Just to show the "difficulty" and the need for an exact cut.
I am number B. the messenger. do not kill the messenger, if you hate the message. why do you hate the message? brainwashed & programmed? or have you been told to hate the message? i hate satanist doG with big g i hate satanist dogs with small g i hate satanist doG = i hate satanist God i hate satanist dogs = i hate satanist gods(people who want to be a god) who was the original satanist (j c)? those rich satanist assholes who run this world, have brainwashed & programmed people from a young age. satanist prayer is for us to forgive those satanist assholes but our prayer is for us to punish those satanist assholes. why? for all the pain they have given us. i have too tell people about God & how people have been brainwashed in believing about their satanist doG = God. forgive= NO.. punish= YES
@GoldSeals lol ya maybe 1 in a million die from a mistake now getting injured is different that's more like 1-100
Everyone makes mistakes! That’s called being human!
Great Video. One critique.... wear the chaps through the entire cut. Cleaning up the trunk and and cutting up the trunk is probably more likely for a thigh bump
Agreed I noticed that too!
I also critiqued his removal of his safety apparel after the tree was on the ground! You are right on!! POMO
I have twice had to treat guys for thigh cuts... after the tree was down. It's easier to get complacent. Keep the chaps on.
Yes. You must always wear your PPE.
82 and still cutting
trees . Thanks for tips I didn’t know
I am a professional qualified arborist and this is an excellent video for home/garden people. Exactly as NPTC training / assessment (UK qualification) goes. Good job. My only criticsm is full PPE at all times, but very good video
Yup, always PPE. I have done commercial logging and a bunch of chainsawing. I was on a site with a crew once and one guy was flinging a chainsaw around with no safety equipment. His saw hit some old wire from a fence and kicked back and the only thing holding his leg on was skin on one side. He did heal up. I was just getting free wood off the site and noticed the crew working there had no safety equipment at all and it bothered me the way they were working. Accident waiting to happen... and it did.
I have watched dozens, maybe even hundreds, of chainsaw related videos, and this one is without doubt the best of them all.
The way you demonstrate how things goes wrong e.g, getting the bar pinched, and how to get out of those situations is of immense value to people learning the craft. Your explanations of the physics about tension and compression are perfectly clear and understandable.
You are a generous and natural teacher. Thank you for putting in so much effort.
I deal with fallen trees in all sorts of precarious positions, doing trail maintenance in the Rockies…and coming from an agricultural background…and working on oil rigs and in construction…common sense becomes ingrained with numerous trials and hopefully only a few errors. We all tend to fail forward on occasion…and for some of us our friends and acquaintances failed once too often??? Having taught physics before, retiring, it’s a good idea to take physics in high school. Learn the G word… Gravity, and learn about forces and vector components! W=F*d so no matter what type of physical work one is engaged in, consider the force and direction components. Some applied book learning can reduce trial and potentially deadly errors!
@@garyraab9887 Great advice. I like his chainsaw, some of the safety tips and the farm !
Leet's get cooking.
@@garyraab9887 Well said.
Now do a cut 30 to 40 deg angle and aim for 4 inches higher than hinge. Obviously a tree on a lean the way you want to go and cut wedge 50%
Stump will guard you from kick back. I've done trees 2 times that trunk with stihl wood boss
This is definitely not the “best of them all”
An important feature of the Humboldt is that the base of the tree falls off of the stump before the tree lands flat. This produces a much more gentle landing than with the Conventional. Loggers prefer the Humboldt because they get fewer breaks and shakes with it. (A full treatment on notches can be found in "The Fundamentals of General Tree Work" by G.F. Beranek.)
Here we dont use Humboldt just because it falls of the stump. We want it to not break of the stump due to safety
Excellent advice I thought I was the only one that knew about humble thank you
I did I firewood for 7 years for room and board, that's why I know a little bit about falling trees and never touch the chainsaw just the mall, I got to watch it all.
… and more merchantable log
I live in the south East and I clear right of ways, nobody here uses a humboldt. Maybe it’s because we deal with mostly pine trees down here and the occasional live oak. I definitely see the perks of the cut for logging though.
I cut trees on my ranch in the NC Smoky mountains…..many have fallen due to natural causes. I have learned the hard way how much tension can exist in limbs contacting the ground. My “go to” tool for questionable limbs under tension is a Greenworks Pole Saw. This gives me “standoff distance” from potential face slappers under tension. This distance adds a lot of safety. Also, I always wear chaps….especially when limbing up felled trees…..this is when most leg cuts occur….my wife was an ER nurse and dealt with saw accidents weekly.
A really informative video. I have been running my chainsaw for 11 years, but am always open to listening to other, you never know what you might learn. On this video the solution to having a pinched chainsaw was so simple and straightforward that I never thought of it. A second bar and chain… jeeze that’s brilliant. Thanks for that and the other tips.
Yep same for me. Like duh!
I agree! That was probably one of the main things I will remember from this video. *note to self, throw a spare bar in saw box...*
That, and hugging the tree to see which way she's leaning.
No matter which direction she's tilting, if there's a possibility of hitting something I really don't want her to land on, I'll rope it, and put some tension on it just incase. But I'm a novice tree guy. And I don't want to have to rebuild a fence or a gazebo bc I got in a hurry and missed my wedge by a couple of inches, and a gust of wind blew, just before she came down!
But this was a good video reminder of things to do to be safe.
But I would suggest keeping the chaps on after the tree is on the ground. That's when all of the injuries with a saw involved that I've actually seen happened.
The guy or gal gets in a hurry limbing, and doesn't remember there's a limb on the ground right behind them. The saw bucks or a small overhead limb falls toward you. You quickly step back, to avoid getting a little face slap, and trip over that 4" limb on the ground behind you.
Tripping or falling with a chainsaw running wot in your hand can make for a bad day!
Still best to anticipate and avoid pinching because it’s a time killer and can damage the blade and / or bar.
As a 65-year-old woman with her first "lady sized" (not 36" bar) chain saw, I've found your instructions to be the clearest and best teaching of any of the many I've watched. I get more comfortable with my saw all the time and am feeling ready to fell my first trees. The info on cutting branches was also very helpful. I have 18 acres on an island in Maine and working with wood - cutting, stacking, and burning it - is my favorite thing to do. Wish I had started a few decades ago ...
Do you have a gas or electric saw? The electric saws are great for smaller sizes (up to 18" for Ryobi) and do not require the yanking so you can save your energy. My mom is 59 and loves the battery mower, string trimmer, and chainsaw I got her.
That Tree 🌳 Had To Of Killed Him
You go girl. I'm impressed. Love Maine.
what u need to find out is why all your trees are dyeing
I used to live in Maine too, "up river" (Winterport) on 11 ac. Loved to see the Bald Eagles population returning as they'd go Salmon fishing the the Penobscot River there. We heated (mostly) with wood (about 8 cord/yr). Plenty of trees up there, a-yup. Be safe (and everyone up there says, "stay warm").
I've probably cut down hundreds of trees in my life time. Always used an angled back cut. 2 days ago I cut down 8 trees. One was 24" diameter Oak. The horizontal back cut makes much more sense once you explained it. It worked perfectly. All the other trees came down as expected. Thanks for the education, I'll never use an angled back cut again.
Other disadvantage: you have to go through more wood with an angled back cut.
I have little tree-felling experience and never even considered anything other than a horizontal back-cut. That angled cut makes no sense. Why make a 12" cut when a 6" cut will do? The problems pointed out in this video was evident enough to me, plus a chain-saw is a cross-cut saw, and not really meant to rip-cut.
With an angled back cut you have NO LEVERAGE TRYING TO LIFT A TREE WITH A WEDGE Therefore the flat back cut , I’m a retired Faller from on the coast and mostly fell old growth timber be safe Brother
This IS the best video I've seen on basic tree cutting. I live on an acreage and have been cutting trees, small scale, for years, and I learned a lot from this. Thanks!
I would add that making cuts at waist height is much easier on the back then cutting lower. You can easily cut the stump shorter without the tree above.
Prior to cutting main trunk into sections - fill the gaps under it with heavier previously cut branches (logs) before the trunk slumps to the ground - then when you cut trunk sections, they fall onto the logs, holding reminder of the trunk off the ground. You keep all your gaps, and never have to hit the dirt with your chain.
Yes !!!
I thought I’ve seen it all until my landlord hired the cheapest faller he could find .
I watched him stuff garbage wood into his fresh cuts all day to take down a 4 ft oak hanging over our house. Will never forget that trick and use it as a grading contractor to this day
I do that a lot. I also have old wedges from teh fire house that I crib from either side to take the tension.
Or having the chain bind. GREAT COMMENT!
Working smarter. Nice.
I do that too. When possible I'll raise the end of the log with a jack before propping it up. You don't get your saw in many pinches if one end of the log you're cutting is off the ground. Lets you cut easier and use smaller equipment .
I have been running a saw for 15 years (I am 66) and my dad ran a saw for 51 years. The trick about leaving a stuck bar in the wood and removing the motor is something I never thought about. I usually have 4 or 5 saws of different sizes with me so it is not a problem if I stick one. Thanks for making these videos; they are well done and informative!
Same here. It's so obvious and yet somehow wasn't obvious to me for the last 10 years. . .
It's not an option on all brands of saws. Pretty much impossible to do on my preferred brand of chainsaw. Husqvarna. It's definitely a big pro for a sthil.
@@jsrocker1776 I'm a Stihl guy, I have no excuse.
@@Munedawg ... Yeah we need to start stepping back and thinking outside the Box this is embarrassing thanks for sharing
@@Munedawg 🤣
I have not used my chain saw to cut any trees lately, but I like to stay up to speed on tree felling safety. This video has been one of the best. In addition to teaching the correct way to use your chainsaw safely, I love the included clips on what can go wrong if you don't think before you cut. I will more than likely watch this video right before I cut my next tree. Thank you for the time you took to film this excellent video.
❤❤q1 by
You have saved lives by making this video, well done.
3 million new chainsaws sold a year,
250 people a year die to chainsaws.
30-40 thousand visit the hospital.
Those are only the USA numbers.
6.5 million views on this video.
Hospitals hate this man's one weird trick.
Be safe.
I've been managing our woodlot for forty years and have learned a lot about cutting. It's not a task for the irrational and it helps to understand a little physics, tree structure and your own physical limitations. Chaps are essential along with eyes and ears. The 45 degree exit path is essential and it's good to have both of them clear. Your commentary on ladders is good. I kept a damaged 8' step ladder just to remind myself to never go up a ladder with a chainsaw again. Dead standing trees are good pre-dried firewood but they also want to kill you. Depending on the species they can rot near the top which comes back at you when the tree falls away from you. Ash trees are good barber chair candidates especially if they have indication of dying or rot near the bottom. Never do I start a tree project without a second saw nearby and make sure the backup saw is not a wimpy one. I enjoyed the entire video.
The one thing that I think is most often overlooked is the wind, especially for tall trees. The wind is the very thing I check for before I even grab my chain saw. Even a mild wind on the ground can be an overwhelming directional obstacle to controlling cutting tall trees, where the unabated wind at the top is moving much faster.
HELMET will help as you showed in the Husband and wife pine tree cut, his helmet got thrown off, so Chin Straps are smart , I wore a hard bell bicycle helmet when I worked cable TV and the boss smirked but it stayed on when a illegal AC service shocked me 16 feet off the ground and I fell to concrete after it shook me loose, I had just taken my lanyard off to climb down so my head missed a concrete step by less than 3 inches but the helmet stayed on and I barely cracked my heel bone. To this Day I wonder if I was set up on that install given the fake way the wires looked cut off on old brown glass insulators from probably the 1930s
@@tv10morehead It's beyond cuntish that some people will smirk when you are trying to be safe and sensible. Trust your own judgement and look after yourself, us older chaps know what it's like but I hate seeing younger guys not wearing PPE because some other cxxx thinks it isn't necessary. The dumbest thing is, if you aren't wearing PPE and get injured, then you aren't covered on the work's insurance. So if you trip and break your ankle on site and can't work, but weren't wearing a hard hat and that can be proven, then you are fxxxxx. And if I'm asked a direct question I will give an honest reply because I value my employment a lot more than some txxx passing through. Sorry for the swears 😉
I feel lucky to have been blessed with a substantial amount of inherited scaffolding so I was never taught from a very young age to use a ladder around trees and scaffold was set up to trim any lower branches but normally to set up a several inch wider nylon pull around the tree higher up to set up pull points on the ground to guide the tree on a path for felling. That way upper leverage of the tree is on my side and not simply any cuts made at the bottom. Other healthy trees have been used as guides with ropes and pulleys as well. We commonly only cut unhealthy or dying trees and like to keep lives ones and maintain a healthy woodland where critters from deer to possums to beavers in the pond live. We just don't want unhealthy trees taking out livestock, buildings, or fencing.
Completely agree to check the tree tops for wind as even what you believe is a wind free day may not be when you look at the tree tops and how they bend back and forth which on taller trees can have a big impact. The difference between driving a car and a semi on a windy day, very different.
Love your input bro💪💪
As an amateur tree cutter and a retired Engineer, I always learn something from your tree cutting videos. Mostly safety related things that I learn but even seeing you discussing tension & compressional forces indicates that tree cutting can involve a large amount of "science" and/or Engineering. With your advice, I have completely changed how I make my back-cuts and also improved my notching techniques.
Awesome video. I’ve cut down enough trees and cut up the tree on the ground afterwards often enough and I just fumbled my way through it and I’ve been lucky to not get injured. Lots of great tips in this video. I feel like I’m going to be more prepared for the next one. I appreciated all the thoughtful discussion
hiya Mr, i just found your tutorial and wanted to say THANK YOU! you've explained techniques very well, covered the " if buts and maybe's" and your extra clips of dummy examples really were helpful to be aware of how much it could hurt if done wrong. thank you for your wisdom and time involved to help others.
With this one video alone, you have saved the life of everybody that watches this video about seven different ways, on the ground while felling a tree, or up on a ladder especially. Thank you for this masterclass in the basic do's and dont's.
Your teaching method is outstanding , especially demonstrating doing things wrong deliberately, and then showing us how to get out of it and then conversely, how to do it correctly in the first place. I can think of maybe one other guy on RUclips for teaching as well as you, such valuable lessons in using a chainsaw. Thank you for the life-saving service you provide in teaching intelligent use of Chainsaw. Hopefully there will be no more RUclips disaster videos of men getting smoked by a tree trunk or branch snapping off...
I said the same thing, I’ve been cutting for a while and buddy still helped me out, no telling how many lives he has saved by this simple video
To be fair, I don't think we should be attempting to educate anyone that would cut away the part of the tree his ladder is resting on....just saying!
Show me the 7 lives at least saved? 😮 The kid who eats the most marbles aint adding too the gene pool,😅 let them get mushed.
@@prestonian1066
Hey, he even said, "I don't know what to tell someone that does this..." LOL
there are probably seven other versions of me from the multiverse that already died by not watching this. I've done just about everything he said NOT to do, lol
I've been doing treework since 95, logged for years as well out of Seattle. Opened my own business in 01 and have ben running it ever since. I agree 100% with this video and am quite happy that someone has finally hit this subject. I've never personally seen a problem with an angled back cut but that's because I've never used one nor do I know any other professional tree or logging companies that do. Kudos to your video.
Can you explain why the pros use the Humboldt? I've heard them say they do it, but not why.
Also, is the reason that cut was bad was he didn't site the second cut right? It looks a lot like all my wedges, lol.
Nvrm on that first question, I see explained why pros cut with the flat side on the log instead of the stump.
@@dreamingrightnow1174with a really big bar saw it’s actually easier than a conventional cut, and i mean big like the 4 foot bar a pro can use the top side of the bar faster cause you can look right at it and more importantly, you can use your legs to pull the saw upwards instead of having to push it down into a big tree which uses more shoulders and back. if you watch a lot of pros do their humbolts with 4 foot bars, youll see them lean back and use their knees to keep it straight instead of hunching over the cut youre making. and then youve got the boss’s reason, like the guy said in the video the ends of your logs are parallel instead of having an angled cut on one end, makes it easier to measure and easier for machines at the mill to grab it and you gotta get every inch of lumber outta that tree
Saves more wood. The face cut is in the stump that no one cares about. The stem is preserved in full diameter. @@dreamingrightnow1174
Before felling a large tree for a new chainsaw virgin, i watched an evenings youtube. Your couple of main guides taught me so much in the prep, main drop and best practice on the ground. Absolutely brilliant wanted to return and say thanks I learned so many skills ❤
I have been cutting for many years. I carry a spare bar and chain just in case like you do. I also take several limbs that I removed cutting the branches off. I place them under the trunk where possible. This gives me the ability to cut thru without hitting the dirt. Great video, thank you for confirming many of the techniques that I use.
You're so right about ladders. I HAVE gone up them and climbed on up beyond the top of the ladder, and logged trees from the top risking knocking the ladder out with falling wood. If you really must do that, you have to have a good guy there to put the ladder back, if it's still usable. I'm 71,and stopped doing stupid stuff like that two years ago, while I was still living.
👀 Hey Mr. Fenton glad you're still with us 😁💪
@@EyesWideOpen2 thanks, Ms Flower, me too. You reminded me to stop looking at those pines I was just looking at.
@@stewartfenton7660 😁👍
It's the worst. I've only done it a few times and I always put myself on red alert for the bad things that could happen.
As a former logger in the northeast, I rarely used a Humbolt notch but I mainly cut hardwoods. Loggers in the northwest cutting conifers on hillsides would be more apt to use them. One thing I would do differently, other than using a typical face cut, would be to do a plunge cut first to set up my hinge and then work towards the back of the tree and leave some holding wood as a trigger. At that point I throw a couple wedges in and then cut the trigger when I am ready to release it.
Cutting hardwoods close to the ground a traditional notch wastes less wood than a Humboldt notch that's for sure.
There are reasons to use both, when Cutting a Humboldt I tend to use the top of the bar to cut the notch out and almost never dog the saw, get more control that way.
For some reason I never thought to do the plunge cut before the face cut, but it makes good sense. The first time I tried a plunge cut I misjudged and cut through my hinge, which trapped the bar. Not very good
@@carrollsanders9376I also prefer starting with the angled cut when doing my face cut. This allows me to vary the angle and depth of my cut as needed to cause the log to do different things. Also it makes it a lot easier to complete the cut when you finish with the horizontal.
I have been a tree climber for 6 years now and have mad limbs and logs do all sorts of crazy things to land exactly where I want them
I've been cutting trees for 55 years and I enjoyed your video good tips !
I have safely used a chainsaw for many years, but I learned a lot from this video! Especially about using chaps to protect the legs! Thank you !
Up in Vermont, I've been cutting with chain saws a long time, landowner not pro, and I'm learning a lot from your videos. I like very much that you've done extensive research (saving me the time) and distilled it down to what you describe and demonstrate. Please keep 'em coming!
You cut to deep, go in 1/3, back cut leaving 3” until you use your wedges. Once the wedges are slammed in, finish the cut.
It you cut in to far at first, you wedges might interfere.
@@mcmuskie2563 I have made that mistake, to the point that the wedge was no effect cause it actually hit the hinge, I have also learned that wedges that are too long can be more trouble than needed too, that is why I carry wedges of 4 different lengths, 4, 6. 8 and 12 inches,
I am number B. the messenger. do not kill the messenger, if you hate the message. why do you hate the message? brainwashed & programmed? or have you been told to hate the message? i hate satanist doG with big g i hate satanist dogs with small g i hate satanist doG = i hate satanist God i hate satanist dogs = i hate satanist gods(people who want to be a god) who was the original satanist (j c)? those rich satanist assholes who run this world, have brainwashed & programmed people from a young age. satanist prayer is for us to forgive those satanist assholes but our prayer is for us to punish those satanist assholes. why? for all the pain they have given us. i have too tell people about God & how people have been brainwashed in believing about their satanist doG = God. forgive= NO.. punish= YES
Grandparents had a farm near Shoreham years ago. Felled my first three there 50 years ago. I miss them and that farm . . .
@@mcmuskie2563 😂
Good safety tips. As an FYI, there are differences in how the tree falls with a Humbolt cut as opposed to a standard notch cut: with a Humbolt cut, the base of the tree will contact the ground first, resulting in more accurate placement of the tree and less movement back towards the faller; great for steeper slopes or when more accuracy is required. The standard notch cut forces the tip of the tree to contact the ground first. Not really an issue in an open area, but it can cause the butt of the tree to move/bounce to the side. That said, as you mention in the video, the notch cut is easier and is perfectly fine. Just make sure you have a good clean escape route.
On this side of the pond, I've never seen the Humbolt taught, only the 'conventional' bird's mouth cuts. Been running saws for nearly 40 years with 5-yearly updates to keep our vigilant safety elves happy. Thanks to you and the poster, I now know what the Humbolt is for. Despite the apparent waste of wood in the stump (small island here, not many trees unless you go conifer harvesting) there is logic there. Thanks, Jeff.
@@anemone104 Technically they are called a Humboldt (not Humbolt) face cut, with a D, as the technique is named for the cut made into redwoods in Humboldt county California. This face cut method saved loads of boardfeet over the last century due to the massive diameter of redwood trees. Also the early fellers were falling from springboards lodged into the the trunk above the stump swell, and the face cut was often made with a double sided axe. The Humboldt cut allowed the feller to make the face cut (after the initial horizontal start cut) without having to go higher on the trunk than already achieved.
@@RudiBega Thanks. This is all new to me as I'm UK based and we just don't get trees like redwoods! Makes sense.
I've noticed that on a lot of vids on YT showing people felling with the conventional gob, the gob is far too small and too narrow so it closes up and the butt pops up off the hinge. Especially when they don't put a step in behind the hinge. The step is supposed to stop the butt end sliding backwards off the stump. Narrow gob and no step makes for a potentially interesting life..... Narrow gob on a big, clean-grained tree can also cause a barber chair - also 'interesting'.
@@anemone104I never knew that's what the step was for! If Id've realized this I would have done it every time (always went flat because It was marginally easier for me to see how much hinge was left, but clearly a step can be life saving!)
@@saintapoc4031 1-2" is good. Go too high and if the grain in the butt end is wild, the hinge may snap off without acting as a hinge and you lose the benefit of the step.
I've worked at a tree company and as the tree service crew leader for a major international airport. As you mentioned, the main thing is judging the lean, and knowing when or when not to fall a tree. Piecing a tree down is a pain in the butt, but nothing compared to losing your or your coworker's life or limb. Working at the airport, and having access to a bucket truck is a life-saver.
Anything near or over 10 ° ,never try to fell
Somehow trees and airports don’t play well together!
I am a wildland firefighter and safety is the first priority. This video is a reminder that you always have to keep learning. And there is a right way and a wrong way. I'm a "swamper," I have to keep my sawyer safe,so I maintain the saw , keeping it sharp and in good working condition. Thank you for your video.
Thanks for your hard work brother
I definitely recommend chaps. I had a chain come off the bar and hit my legs. The chaps saving me from going to the hospital. It happened so fast I didn’t have time to react to it.
That is my worst nightmare.
The main reason for the ' Humbolt ' cut, is to prevent the valuable timber log from hitting the groung top first and splitting. As your tree fell, you could see it slide down the bottom spoping cut of the ' Humbolt '. As you stated, the bottom cut ideally could have been a little steeper for a perfect drop. Kind regards,
Tony Marsh.
Yep - the humbolt essentially makes the bottom of the tree hit the ground first, avoiding fracturing the trunk
This is one of only 2 videos I continue to refer to when I plan on felling trees. I've watched dozens of instructional videos; yours and the other are the only ones I need to do the job safely and effectively.
In my twenties (ancient history), I worked in demolition and WISH I had the knowledge you impart! Really outstanding video, and thanks much for producing it! I know for certain that you have made felling trees much, much safer for me, and very likely for others, and I appreciate this immensely!
P.s. never cleared the brush or limbs , just walked all over them😅. Lucky for sure
Homelite and McCullough back in the day 😅
Absolutely great chainsaw instructional video. This guy is smart, experienced, analytical, and articulate. I have learned many of his points the hard way through the years. Wish I had had this video 30 years ago. Still I learned some useful techniques I did not develop on my own.
Just stumbled on to your video, great work. I've been cutting trees of all sizes for over 50 years now, but it is always good to observe other folks and pick up on new things or reinforce old lessons learned. One suggestion I would offer is to keep the chaps, steel toe boots and head gear on throughout the whole cutting process, especially when limbing and bucking the tree. When working in and around the tangles of branches, you can easily trip or the chain can catch and either throw you or the saw off balance with serious consequences; a lesson I learned the hard way long ago. I also regularly use the chain brake when I am moving around with the saw still running. I'm going to go hunt up your other videos. Thanks.
Good point Michael. I've never been cut by a chainsaw after a thousand trees, but the chaps I was wearing were cut right across the quadriceps once, with no harm to me. I wear my chaps and safety equipment.
Very good point. I agree 100%. What's the point of taking off the PPE just because the tree is on the ground? It's as dangerous laying down as it is standing up. Bit like my wife 🤣🤣🤣
Yes, me too. I'm going to binge watch all your related videos. Thank you a lot for your teaching.
@@bobbutcher7725 Always wear protection around trees and wives is good advice whether laying down or standing up. LOL
Great explanation on why to keep your back cut horizontal. Blows my mind everytime I see a stump with that angled back cut. Also multiple reasons to use a Humboldt notch. If the bottom is open enough then the log lands flat all at once. This helps A) keeps the tips from digging into the ground or the top of the spar by the log all hitting at once. B) If your milling the log, it keeps the log from fracturing on uneven impact. There are a million ways but I'm an Isa certified arborist, so just wanted to give a little more insight. Great video with a lot of great information!
LOVE your non-nonsense, common sense approach! You are an excellent instructor. I feel 100% more confident now to cut up a naturally felled tree on my property. Thank You!
Good video. One remark: once the tree starts moving stop cutting and move away ( 12:04 ). It won't make much difference any more to continue cutting. Move away because you never know the tree is going to do bad things, example when there are rotten parts inside the tree trunk.
A couple of safety comments I'd like to add:
I was taught to always use a cant hook on the end of the log, if you use it in the middle your escape route is very limited. Cant hooks can loose their grip if your standing close to the end you can take only one step to safty. I've 1/2 cut an entire rather straight log into firewood lengths, rolled the log to finished the cuts.
Since I'm smaller person, I lock my upper arm straight when cutting as much as possible to help prevent kick back.
Thank you for the great video, great work I learned a lot too.
@0100101 010101 that was not ''such a bad hinge'' but he pointed it out his mistakes, I have seen a few of buckin' billy ray, logger wade,and steve billow who are all accomplished tree fellers have some troubles too, watch a few more vids that feature barber chair, most of what I have seen are a result of rotton tree, or too deep a facecut, real heavy on one side, heavy leaners, none of which applied to what this guy was doing. but to agree with you on the moment it began to fall, he should have been in his safe spot several seconds before the tree had any real fall angle to it.
It takes less effort when you hook the end too. It's usually harder work rolling from the middle.
From someone with over 40 years of experience around chainsaws and tree felling/removal, excellent advice, and job! When that stump starts to dry out drill some holes in it and soak it occasionally in some diesel/waste oil mix. Then when you burn it, it burns most of the roots along with the stump.
To aid in rotting the stump, drill lots of 3/4" hole using a long wood bit (long as you can get). Fill the holes with epsom salts and top off with water. Repeat a few times. Will rot most stumps in about 12 -18 months. This is preferred in-city where fire regs prevent burning the stump.
@@WarpFactor999, Great alternative tip, thank you!
We can't do that in fire country unfortunately even during winter! I have had friends do burn piles, the pile ignited the roots, burned underground and popped back up set a wood pile on fire and also a tree on fire!
Or..... Just get a stump grinding guy out and do it properly 😉
@@ryancockerill4484 DIY is fun though lol
Excellent video, very educational. As a novice to the chainsaw this will keep me out of the ER 🏥 and prevent me from wrecking my equipment.
just bought my 1st chainsaw and am watching videos on how to use safely. Your video is by far the most helpful ,thank you
Some additional tips, use hearing protection. The chain brake is a crucial safety tool that should be engaged when you let go of a running chainsaw. It's not just for kickback. Make a habit of wrapping your thumb around the handle of the saw so when it kicks back, the chain break will automatically be engaged by your wrist. Also, the term wedge for a face cut is problematic because a wedge is a tool to keep the tree from leaning back and pinching your bar in the back cut. Use a wedge in this felling situation, put it in the back cut as soon as there is room. Even if you know where the tree is going to fall, put a wedge in because often one can be wrong about the lean.
I learned about wedges the hard way! Got my saw stuck, fired up my backup saw and that got pinched too, trying to cut the first saw out lol.
Smart! Never thought of it that way . Basicly just for kickback is all I ever thought of.
Keep your force arm straight as a board helps to... less kickback possible
Should talk to somebody about that idiot "Glasses Poillievre" running ads on your channel.. lol.. amazing tutorials kind sir
U can be right about the lean but thevwind pushes the tree back once was cutting these big mofos that were blocking our billboard i cut it as soon as it started to fall the wind picked up caught it an pushed it back the other way almost fell on my buddy who was on traffic duty he got hit by sum small branchs he was mego lucky it didnt kill him
One trick I was taught to save your chain is when cutting close to the ground, chip the bark off the tree with an axe or hatchet first, as the bark contains a lot of sand and dirt near the ground. Great video!
Yeah, and the sand/dirt makes micro-fractures in your chain, if you look closely, that takes about 20 or 30 good pushes with your file to get out. Usually have to file out a 32nd or 16th of each tooth to get it sharp again... what a pain in the rear!!! :)
Great video. I'm learning how to use a chainsaw, cross cut and fell in a few weeks as part of a course and this video is realty useful; very clear to understand and with a big emphasis on safety. Good stuff!
I have used a chainsaw for many years, but I learned a lot from this video. Thank you for sharing
Thanks so much for explaining the danger of angled back cuts. I’m an amateur and have been doing it for about ten years successfully, but I lately started doing slight Nike back cut but your explanation od why it doesn’t do what I thought it did makes perfect sense. From now on, straight back cuts for me.
Good job sharing information. Thanks! As a home owner in the NW with an 18" bar I only clear wind damage twice a year but you have given me a good understanding of more difficult projects.
Well done video. You taught well. Really liked you showing what happens when something goes wrong. I have been learning this craft for the past 7 years. The first 47 years of life was spent learning how to build. Using that knowledge along with the newly learnt area of tree felling to homestead. I am on second property, both under 5 acres, and feel extremely blessed to have survived this time. I watched hours of Canadian teachings on tree felling several years ago. I believe it was a complete course. Pretty dry but what is needed to know was there. Your video refreshed a lot of what i learned then went further showing me what happens when things go wrong. I have had a tree laying on the ground, 30 inches across, pinch my chain. Lol took me almost an hour to get out. Wish i knew about the second bar thing then. I ended up trekking down to get my small saw. Thanks for making the video. 😊
Thank you! I have no formal training but I use a chainsaw at work sometimes. This video helped I normally wedge my cuts so my blade doesn’t bind that’s how I trained my guys and has always worked for me. Just like you fall a tree you can cut it up the same way.
Good stuff! I can really appreciate you putting yourself at risk, going over the safety issues that come with operating one of the best yet most dangerous tools out here. I wish you had done this when I first began using them 20 years ago. But I can still learn and have picked up a few things here. Thanks!
I've been "binge watching" your channel since I found it a couple days ago. Love the variety. You keep it interesting, which is a huge plus. I've also been watching you work on all the hydraulic cylinders. Great job. I learned hydraulics in the Navy. I can't think of any better way of doing it than the way you are. Videos are great. Thanks.
Best use of my time. I've got a lot of branches and downed trees to deal with. I've learned more about safe chainsaw use from this video than any other. Thanks!
4 generations of my family have been involved in timber cutting, in one form or another, including myself. You do an excellent tutorial.
I’ve been cutting for years now and have references from STIHL and ECHO and HUSQVARNA as well as forestry guidance and other arborist on RUclips. This is the most thorough, comprehensive video I have seen. I wish I would have watched this first three years ago. You have a new subscriber!
I've been felling and bucking for over 20 years and I'm always learning. One other advantage of the Humboldt cut is that the main trunk will usually have less dropping distance from the stump and will usually do less damage to the ground. I learn and practice a lot of different techniques and every time I fell a tree, I'm nervous and try to completely assess as many possible ways things may go wrong before I even start my saw and hopefully avoid them all. Tree work is a science mixed with an art because every tree is different.
I seem to think I heard humboldt cuts were cut on very steep terrain as well
Humboldt cut allows tree base to hit ground before the top, thereby significantly reducing probability of damage to the top when hitting the ground, or breaking off part way up; a not uncommon occurrence when using the conventional face cut.
@Cassie Harry I suppose it can, however, confidence and pride is what I usually see causing fail videos on RUclips.
@Cassie Harry I read the word nervous as aware and alert, not cavalier and just another tree.
I watched a professional show me how he did it about 5 years ago. He cut a bars-width slot straight through the middle of the trunk horizontal. Then he did a downward facing wedge on the opposite side, not enough to cut into the middle cut, but enough to create the hinge. Then finally a short cut, angled slightly down, I think, towards the middle bar area from the opposite side, again leaving about an inch. He said "That tree is safe now. It'll stay there like that all day until you're ready to fell it. And then just cut out that remaining 1 inch and push away." He worked as a professional logger for many years.
Excellent presentation. I particularly like that he is honest and confident enough to show fails (some intentionally) as well as proper technique. Fails are used to instruct and to provide further lessons on how to recover. I am very impressed.
1st, Thanks. I’ve watched several of your videos. It’s been 25+years since I’ve used a chainsaw and even then very amateur. We just bought 5 acres in PA and I fell several trees using what I’ve learned from you. All went “textbook “.
Putting a wedge in the cut when doing your back cut is helpful just to give you an easy indicator that the tree is starting to fall (the wedge droops and gives you a visual indicator right next to your saw where you're actually looking). It's more of an issue when you're dropping 100'+ trees or something prone to barber chair like an alder where you want to get back quick.
No doubt that works Mike, honestly your head should be up watching the crown for movement most of the time.
Very nice and informative video. I definitely learned a few things and I have been cutting trees for over 40 years.
I do have a few things that I found helpful over the years.
When cutting smaller limbs, it is helpful the have the wood closest to the motor to eliminate throwback.
When a tree falls and there is airspace under the trunk, I use smaller logs to put under the trunk to keep it from hitting the ground as it is bucked.
When starting my saw I have the blade brake engaged, especially while holding it in the air.
Thanks for the video and I will look for more.
I just bought the Stihl ms 382 and this guy is giving so many advices! Love it!
I’m a homeowner who cuts down 2 or 3 trees/ year, and need all the help I can get. This is the best video I’ve ever seen to address all the issues I have or cause. Thank you!
Thank you, watching this helped confirm to me that I have developed some pretty good habits. There are always things to learn, so even though I don't have many occasions to be cutting trees, I watch a lot of videos like these.The "ladder people" and the other what-not-to-do scenarios were great examples. Too bad it looked like there were a couple that probably got someone hurt. Thanks again for your efforts here.
I put a road cone on the ground just past where I want the top of the tree to land.
I find it makes me try harder to keep the felling accurate and helps keep other people and tools etc away from the high risk areas.
When i worked for a Line Clearance Tree company. They had a 5 Step felling plan. And its what ive lived by every since then.
1.Heights and Hazards(Identify)
2. Lean (Good side/Bad side)
3. Escape route(45° in the opposite direction you are felling the tree!)
4. Notch( Needs to be 80% the width of the tree)
5. Back cut(Hingewood needs to be 7-10% of the width of the tree. "Which is generally a few inches"
This is a method i learned as a Groundsman on day one of cutting trees professionally! Safety was huge with this company. And im lucky to have had the opportunity to learn all the right and wrong/bad ways of cutting trees and exactly why they are right wrong and indifferent.
Im an Arborist now! But this 5 step felling plan is still "notched" in my memory to this very day!(You see what i did there? Lol)
Great educational lesson. I learned a lot out of it. I only noticed by counting your cutting time how much percent you are wearing leg protection. Most injuries happens doing the small work. Stay save and thank you for your effort.
27:40 Where a long section of log is suspended near the ground, I take other limbs and place them under the log. That way I have a lot more cuts from the bottom if I need them, and don't risk putting the saw in the ground.
Glad I read the comments before commenting, that's what I was going to suggest also - I do this A lot! If my chain even looks at the ground it goes dull...haha.
@@stump-bossBIll same here....was beginning to think no one else did that.
Great video. As a tree cutter with forty years in the craft, I agree with not using the angled back cut to fall a tree. If the tree needs to be controlled by a wedge in the back cut it will push the tree more than lift the tree and make the hinge more prone to break and the tapered area is weaker than the base of the tree causing the wedge to be less effective. Here in North Carolina, the Forestry Service teaches the bird mouth technique which is a top and bottom wedge cut. This allows the tree to stay attached to the stump longer for better control of the tree as it falls. As for working up the log, a wedge in the top of the cut will hold the cut open not allowing the bar to be pinched. This is important when severing a group of cuts from the rest of the trunk. I will admonish you for not wearing your safety gear during the clean up portion of the job, especially when cutting off the stump. You speak of dirt dulling the chain and even stop to sharpen your chain. Dirt in the inside of the stump will dull your chain and can cause a kick back faster than you can control it. I have scars on my thigh to prove it.
Might be a tall ask but could you film your technique you describe here?
@@CaptainRonAhoy at this time I am unable to use a saw due to injuries from bicycle. The gentleman in the video does a good job of explaining about the cutting technique. Search for wedging and bucking trees and you can find some good videos.
I'll check out more videos, thanks for replying...@@user-lr3cg2mf4h
Great instructional video! Been cutting trees on my acreage for a number of years but you always pick up a few tricks from a well done video like this one. Thanks.
YOU have no idea how thankful i am for the knowledge you so generously provided me today. I was making so many mistakes, you probably have save me from terrible harm. You are a wonderfull teacher.
I have to say, the explanation of the negative effects of a sloped back cut was a pleasant surprise. I didn't have time to watch the whole thing, but you were right on, regarding the implications of which angle the force exerted on the hinge is coming from. Kudos.
The tree can also slide down like that and then Fall backwards away from the hinge.
@@mattschmitt4038 - Absolutely.
The part ~10 minutes in about the back cut is spot on. I had 32 trees on my property and as they aged, a few grew in ways that made them unsafe to be around, then 5 80+ foot tall trees got bores. And, unfortunately, they were all adjacent to a public building's parking lot that borders my property. I had to pull them down.
I had neighbors who are engineers come and consult me on how best to direct the falls. One was particularly difficult because it was between outbuildings and a small fruit orchard. I didn't want to lose any.
I'm an old man, and the engineers are young, which is why they were there. I can't do physical labor like I could even 10 years before. In my life, I've learned a few things, and understand physical properties of wood, metal, and the world in general. I knew how that tree had to be cut to miss everything. The engineers wouldn't do the cuts unless I signed a release that I would be responsible when the tree hit something I didn't want hit. I had no problem signing, but did have a problem with their insistence.
They did exactly as I said, and the tree landed within 6 inches of where I told them it would.
Another tree, they ignored my warnings. Since no buildings were involved, and a temporary fence and an ornamental pear tree were the only potential casualties, I let them do as they thought. They broke the pear, and badly damaged a golden delicious apple tree. The fence was crushed for 15 feet. No big loss on the fence. 2x4" hardware cloth can be straightened out. But, the pear tree is now a worktable at the edge of the orchard, and comes in very handy. The tree would have been nicer. It was the only ornamental we had in that part of the property. The apple? I cut everything off above the graft (dwarf), and surprisingly, it came back. We got 2 bushels of good apples off it last year. It's been 7 years since it was damaged, and that was the first decent crop.
What's the moral of this story? Trust old people. They aren't stupid.
Well, I'll gladly trust an old lumberjack or farmer when it comes to felling trees, but I'd much rather trust myself when it comes to PC repair. Stupidity is less about someone's ability to think and more about where their knowledge-base lies. A 70-year-old train engineer shouldn't tell a 25-year-old plumber how to fit a sink, a 65-year-old car mechanic shouldn't tell a 30-year-old electrical engineer how to wire a house, a 45-year-old glazier shouldn't tell a 40-year-old horse trainer how to break a wild horse, a 30-year-old butcher shouldn't tell a 50-year-old farmer how to corral cattle... Ya see where this is going? It's less about age and more about where someone's skillset resides. True intelligence stems from capacity and willingness to learn rather than how much someone already knows.
ABSOLUTELY! I'm 69 now and can TELL someone else HOW to do the job, but, there is now way I can do it, myself! We didn't GET to be old people by being stupid!
So you didn't get old by being dumb..Hmmm!.. Nature sometimes weeds out the dumb ones.
@@hauntedshadowslegacy2826
Let me disagree. I'm 67 and know how to do everything you put in your comment, and better than any 20-something. In some cases, better than they'll ever learn to do.
Why? Because I've done all those jobs. Being older doesn't just mean I've done them because I will never trust a 25-year motorcycle rider because 99% of them have the same experience 25 years in a row. Unfortunately, that's true of almost everyone in all skill sets. That's why doctors need liability insurance. Some of the most experienced doctors make the most stupid mistakes because they have repeated every year rather than learning. When I look for others to do things I'd rather not do, I study them and get the ones that have a good reputation, treat their underlings well, and have a sense of humor. Why that last one? Because a sense of humor shows intelligence. In my life, I've built large Unix servers, and tiny PCs. And fixed every one of them. I've wired an entire industrial building to 440V, 220V, & 110V. I've refined silver. I've made silver coins and bars. I've repaired watches and TVs. I've fixed my own car numerous times.
In my old age, I make enough to pay others to do all those things. But, I didn't get stupid. I still understand the physics behind a PC, a Smart Switch/Plug, a 3-way light switch, a water heater and all the plumbing around it, how to prune a fruit tree for the highest harvest (did you know fruit trees, left to themselves, only bear fruit every other year without correct pruning?), ho9w to frame a home, not to mention put the plumbing and electrical in. I put solar panels on my home and saved $40k doing it. I know how to tow and better, back up a 30 foot trailer. I know how to launch a boat.
No, I don't trust anyone to do anything better than i could, and that includes the surgeons who've performed any of the 26 surgeries I've had. No, I wouldn't operate on anyone. I'm not willing to change careers to get licensed. But I know I could have. I also understand spoirts as well or better thyan anyone I know. That doesn't mean I remember any players names. I was an official of football, basketball, and baseball. I turned down an invitation to officiate college football.
My father had a photographic memory. He expected his sons to learn as much about as many things as they could. It's what he did. My older brother was hired to take the place of 3 engineers who were found to be negligent in their application of O-rings on the space shuttle called Columbia. He has a PhD in Physics. He's brilliant. He didn't get a masters degree. He knew enough without it to go from bachelors to PhD, and graduated with honors, though in that program they didn't really hand out honors like they do for bachelors degrees.
One of the things I learned was how to sing. I was a member of the Mormon Tabernacle Choir when I was 18. In high school at the Music Educators National Convention in Atlantic City, NJ, I got a standing ovation for my performance of The Lord's Prayer (Albert Hay Malotte version).
Okay, enough of this nonsense. I'm not bragging. Facts are facts, and I know this is a TL;DR post. But, my point is, those who know, really know. Most don't. They get good at one or 2 things, and that's it. They dabble ast other things. I had a huge numbers of choices I could have made and done nearly anything I wanted to. 2 things held me back: 1. horrible self image, 2. hemophilia. I really wanted to play football. That is a story by itself. I didn't need a doctor's permission slip to officiate, so that's what I did instead. That's why I had to have about 10 of my surgeries. One of them ended my officiating career a few years after turning down the college football offer.
My apologies. Everyone has a Mount Moriah to climb. Health is mine. Thankfully I have a brilliant, but also a drop-dead gorgeous wife to make me smile and give life purpose. She pulled me through a triple bypass a few years ago.
@@KLP99 So I guess when he said, “ya know where this is going…” you didn’t. Lol
Thank you so much for sharing . Your place looks awesome
Thanks so much. Now I understand the forces involved.
As one of the professionals mentioned earlier on, I wouldn't recommend stepping up on your back cut with a humboldt notch. It functions better if you come in even with the apex, using wedges to push it over, and the underside of the cut should be 45 degrees or more.
Deeper face cut, get into the heartwood, don't step a Humboldt. With proper cutting and wedging you get a green tree to go anywhere. Keep in mind the limb weight can supercede lean weight. Also trees don't kick back unless you're falling it into another tree..
Thank you very much, this was very helpful!
Humboldt wedge was a good lesson in cutting and I agree with your argument with the angled back cut. Any instruction manual I have read has made it clear to cut across. I learned a lot in getting a chainsaw unstuck from watching your video, thank you.
Excellent, very thorough, professional explainer!
I especially like you doing things the wrong way (as a lesson), but still in a safe manner, for the man, tools, and surroundings involved. Great job!
For the layperson (like most of us): much of this should come to you naturally if you put safety and cleanliness before rushing the job.
Practice doing it wrong🤣
You will do it wrong enough without intentionally going there
That’s foolish intentionally doing tree work wrong will bite your ass!
A little tip; when you get your bar stuck, after you get the bar out of the trunk or limb you should check the bar for pinches in the chain 's track! (This happened to me a couple of times!) What I did to fix the problem was to insert my scrench into the groove and pry it apart then check for burrs. If you find one, a little file work will fix that situation!
Yup.
I like this guy. Knows a lot of stuff, goes to the effort to spread the love. He's my go-to for 70-year-old outboard motor repair! As for Simpli-safe... it's simple and it's safe. I've had mine since 2012. Don't use it anymore but several batteries are still working. I'd definitely buy it again, if home safety were a priority. Surprised Google and Ring/Amazon just didn't buy them because they're so much better than either of their offerings!
this is a really good video ive seen a lot of videos with tutorials that show the wrong way to cut down a tree and this one actually shows one of the correct ways to do it.
Thank you!
I just got my first chainsaw for Father's Day (Australia). So much great information in this video!
Good overall video. You should try using your wedges when cutting down through a log that is supported on both ends. Cut down through log like normal. But before the kerf starts to close and pinch your saw, insert a plastic wedge into the kerf above the saw with a few light taps of a hammer. Then continue your cut. You’ll be able to cut all the way through without your saw pinching or risking contact with the dirt attempting a up cut. It just makes the job so much easier.
The one subject that I believe more attention should be given is the cutting of storm damage/downed trees and how they pose a greater risk of injury. Storm trees can often be difficult to determine where the compression and tension are located. And extra precautions should be taken.
Good job on the information you provided.
We keep a piece or 2 of tapered cedar siding for that
I grew up cutting trees with my grandpa and my recently deceased father and never was formally trained. Appreciate learning some of the right ways to do this. I think my #1 piece of advice is to have someone with you on a fell like this. Escape path always on my mind. Overhead rotten branches are probably the worst thing I've had to deal with.
You are so right about the overhead rotten branches breaking off, there is so much that could happen with a tree you never know, I appreciate someone taking the time and teaching us what they know, and comments like yours I had not thought about that part in a while and that is when I get into trouble. you don't get second chance with a tree. Thank you for all your comments. My father-in-law was on a ladder cutting a tree at 45 yrs old, he fell and he is paralyzed from the legs down and has been in a wheelchair for 55 years and just turned 100 years old 2 days ago.
Yes, I'm generally pretty safe, but I've tripped a few times, trying to back off through brush. Keep your path clear ...
I've never used a chainsaw, but figured knowing something might come in handy after a bad storm at some point. Appreciate the thorough introduction, especially the tip about saving your back (in addition to all the potential to save lives).
Thank you for showing me the proper way of cutting down a tree. I'm glad I don't have to take down trees as large as you, but a smaller one can hurt also. Thanks again, James . Will be watching more of your videos to learn.