As I was taught by a faller fifty years ago now, start with the file low and as it moves forward twist the file in your hand and lift. This covers the whole face of the tooth from bottom to top in one pass and spinning the file uses the whole file and helps to keep it clean. Use only 2 or three passes, sharpen lightly but frequently.
I don't think his point was about better sharpening per se, but to twist in order to use the entire file surface to avoid clogging up one side of the file with sawdust.
William that is exactly the technique I learned in the woods when I was falling except it included Edward Lester's comment to never drag a file backwards. I cringe when I see someone drag a file.
@@dwighthires3163 dragging a file does almost nothing negative compared to lifting and resetting. There have been scientific experiments done, and they showed no average difference. Just FYI.
Been cutting with, and sharpening, chain saws for 48 years now. My favorite hobby. This video has VERY good insights and advice. I personally use one hand for the file, and the other gloved hand to hold the tooth steady in the bar's slot....makes for a consistent mating file to tooth. I also, as noted below, put a 1/4 turn twist in each stroke....razor sharp, friends. Enjoy...stay warm...and be safe!
It's so sl to hear anybody freely say "this took me four years to figure out." Props to you for being a humble guy and passing along your well-earned knowledge. Obviously good folks watching the video, too. Merry Christmas, y'all.
I’ve been falling timber in British Columbia since I was a teen. Hand sharpening is the only way to go, two firm passes with the right size file on either side, one pass on the rakers every third sharpening, takes about five minutes on a 24” bar and with practice to get the angle memorized, you should have big bright chips every time.
Well buzz not knowing how old you are now sharpening is an art form doesn’t matter what your sharpening I understand but I’m kind of picky about how shit gets sharpened I have a jig because I’m a homeowner when you’re in the field you give her tits he could take this back in the shop sharpen it up shit he’s at home he should have more than one chain ready to go but it is an art form you don’t do it right you just throw that chain in the garbage sorry I’m rambling Unfortunately for this fella he spent a lot of money on junk
I'm an arborist that's been running and sharpening saws for over 40 years. The Stihl and Pferd 2 in 1 sharpeners are the best thing going. Files your rakers to proper depth and sharpens the cutter at the same time. Try em, you won't be disappointed.
All the information I've found about hand filing is quite adament to avoid dragging files back against the material. Make a filing stroke, lift the file away and then have another go, but not back and forth like a washboard. Good video. Nice presentation and no wasted time. Thank you.
As some others have said: 1. Tighten - over tighten the chain for sharpening, this keeps the file and tooth at 90 deg. 2. Make sure you have the right size file, it’s usually written on the box of a new chain. Buy two files per chain. 3.File - push the file- towards the sharpened edge only, do not draw it back across the tooth on the backstroke. 4. Those new file guides with two round files and one flat file combined made by, Stihl and others, work well. 5. Maintain the proper angle horizontally between the file and the bar, ie. parallel to the hatch marks on the each tooth. 5. Practise man Practise, I got better at it as I sharpened more. Eventually, it becomes a ‘zen’ thing, Relaxing , and I love doing it! 6. Definitely clamp the saw in a vice, as shown.
That rig made by stihl with the 2 rounds and 1 flat is the best sharpening rig out I use my every tank of gas and do 3 passes per tooth cuts like butter and str8. Best 40$ I ever spent
@@chasshaw7111 hey, no in case you don't have the three and only the classic one sharpner, there is an extra small metal device which shows you how much you have to remove from the guide inbetwen. I will try to find it and send you the link
@@1d1hamby the stihl tool is simple to use for quick mindless sharpening. I've never seen a faster way to sharpen, doesn't mean it's perfect just easy.
Fact.. I tired every which way... and the Stihl one is just the best one I have found so far... yes its not like they are out of the box and the old timers can still out sharpen it but for out in the field on the fly it really really made it easy for me to get my saw back into shape fast
Take the raker file out of the 2in1 and just use the round files if the rakers are too low A few sharpenings later the rakers will be back in spec .... rinse and repeat
Always good to seek out advice, Im always learning. My buddy saved me a ton of time early on by telling me to switch to a shorter bar. Shorter bar less equals less sharpening time. He's been in the wood business for 40 years and like most have said already use good files and sharpen often there's really no shortcuts to getting a sharp chain. Its absurd how many times a tooth hits the ground even with the slightest touch. The older I get the more aware I am of wearing protective gear. One slip to the leg alone in the woods and your probably finished without a tourniquet. Im embarrassed to admit how little I knew about chainsaws when I started 30 years ago, wish I had RUclips.
I ran both 16 and 18 inch bar for decades cutting firewood. Last year I bought a stihl 362 cm with a 25 inch bar and just bought a stihl 500i with a 25 inch light bar.. My back feels relieved... BTW 61 here... " stand up and buck "
@@wittsend1961 I find filing less painful then a sore back, run the biggest bar that your saw can comfortably handle, my Stihl 066 is nicely balanced with a 33" bar but the 36 is easier to handle. Running skip tooth chain makes filing quicker but I don't know how well it works in hardwood, living in coastal BC it's all softwoods.
I take a paint pen and mark what will be my first tooth, when it comes around it is time to change direction and to the opposite facing teeth, until the marked one comes around again. No counting or losing count.
@@sharkman8810 told, if Stihl chain, the coloured link indicates if safety or pro type chain build. Green, safety, low kickback etc Orange, more experienced operators, less protection built-in. More aggressive cut.
Best advise I've gotten on here is don't let you chain get to dull they say to brighten it up every tank of gas but i get by with every 2 tanks hand file still works great.
My family owned a mower store. I am a small engine mechanic. Certified briggs and stratton tech, I have sharpened more than 1000 chains in my life. We prefer Oregon Semi Chisel at 3/8. The flat teeth hold their edge longer and bounce off debris, the hogged out kind have a sharper thinner edge that blunts faster and hooks onto debris which can snap the tooth off completely. I have seen chains run into star pickets, fencing wire, Nails, Screws.. you name it :D I came to say you got it right. Well done. As others have said tighten the chain and don't file on the backstroke. Make sure to file the rakers down under the level of the tooth peak if the teeth are really worn down. (raker height gauge preferred) Thanks for taking the time out to teach others.
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
Yeah, but where is the fun in that? Seriously though, electric chainsaws have a long way to go to compete with big pro saws. For smaller timber, they can be useful.
As a tool grinder for 35 years the rake angle ( the area that the chip follows after cut) is the most important. To keep that correct I use a file holder. It also shows the angle to the tooth. Well worth the time and money.
Great video, I’d like to confirm the Stihl 2 in 1 does a great job of filing the tooth and depth guide with perfect distance from tooth to depth guide. Also to stand out better I use old fashioned white out to mark the first tooth. Gary
Eventually, you'll learn to sharpen with one motion that effects the gullet as well as the cutting edge. You'll know when you see the file "marry" the top cutting edge. 3 strokes is usually all that it takes for a non abused chain. Be sure to use a 7/32 file for 3/8th chain. Was a professional logger and have been cutting wood for 45 yrs. Needed to hand sharpen a 20" bar in under 4 minutes.
If the chain is off the bar, the file will correctly file the chain as the chain will not move back and forth. The bar used in the video has play and the drive links are not solid as needed to produce sharp edges. Dirt is an abrasive like a stone. If you hold the drive links in a vice with 2 steel pieces of angle iron and wash the bar and chain before filing, you will produce an new chain effect PS. Files only cut in the pushing direction. This info is only to help inform. Thanks J Carter
What a lifestyle. I start my morning by dropping a couple of logs, then at work I fell a few logs and at night I'm stihl sawing logs. These vids give me a woody! I gotta leaf now. See ya fellers!
Been sharpening chains with a file since I was ten. Using two hands like he does always crowns the tooth. Much easier using one hand and tighten the chain more so the teeth don’t roll back and move around. Use my thumb on one side of the tooth to stabilize it. Have never had a problem sharpening a saw this way and always a out of the box result.
I find shoving a wedge on the underside between the bar & chain you will achieve ultra tension reducing the tacking of the chain during sharpening. Once you have complete one or a couple teeth take the wedge out move it along & re-wedge it. Handy trick to free up the other hand if you want to refine alternative motions, angles & twisting. But I bet you can do a wicked sharpen if you've been doing it since 10yrs
I've had really good results with the Stihl 2-1 sharpening tool. I know, it looks like a gimmick but it works and it's easy! Wranglerstar tested it on his channel and was surprised and impressed. Sharpens all of these edges in one pass.
I would like to start off by saying thank you for posting this video. I have been running chain saws for about forty years now and I still found it helpful. just wanted to add another good way to check your rakers is to bore into your cut. If it cuts easy and the saw wants to go in with little to no help they are just right. If you're pushing and the chain is sharp, they need to come down. It will also let you know if they are too low. Thank you for letting this old timber faller pass on some advice. God Bless and be careful everyone.
i been working with a chainsaw all my life ,and today . the first filling on my new chain is the sharpest that chain will ever be. sharper than factory .
Years ago I worked for the US Forest Service and I spent the entire summer on a four man crew thinning and cutting standing timber to reduce the fire loads around a couple of big camp grounds that had major die off from spruce bark beetles. We were not required to buck or limb the downed timber, just get as many on the ground in a week as we could. I discovered that if I did a quick touch up with the file every time or every other time I fueled up that I was able to drop more trees on a tank of fuel then the others. The saw just ran more efficiently and it only took a couple of minutes once you learned the tricks of hand sharpening. The other advantage of always having a sharp chain was that I was much more accurate and had less hang ups then the others. A couple of guys consistently had issues and a few close calls and it almost always came back to them not taking care of their saws and or chain maintenance.
I am just an old backyard hack. You are one of the few that I have seen sharpen upwards at a 45-degree angle. I have tried filling flat and the result is definitely worse for me. I use a dremel checking occasionally with a strong magnifying glass and a good light. I only cut for a few hours now because I am older than dirt and can't last long. I was born right after they invented the wheel. Thank you for the good video. I am always trying to learn more than I forget. LOL
I use the little oregon bits like you showed EXCEPT I put them in a die grinder that spins 20,000 rpm and I get my chains razor sharp. I actually sharpen brand new chains before using them because I can get them to cut better. Also the other thing A LOT of people dont do like you said is lower the rakers as they sharpen a chain over and over. The rakers are what sets how deep of a cut each tooth on the chain takes. If you sharpen the chain over and over and dont lower the rakers it will never cut well.. You can adjust the rakers based on the HP of your saw, more HP the lower you can set them and really make some chips.. The other thing is that chain you show is a "safety chain" with rolled over rakers and they dont cut nearly as well as a "pro" chain with just straight up rakers....
@@njonebale7889, full chisel chain definitely cut faster, but also dull faster. Sounds like he's dealing with a lot of dirty wood, so a semi chisel chain might be the better option for him. Especially if he hasn't learned the different techniques in cutting wood, so he doesn't drag the dirt through the wood when he makes his cuts.
Are all saftey chains supposed to have the depth gauges folded over like that? Pretty sure the chains I use on my ms250 are saftey chains (has the green link) and the rakers are straight up
Grinding takes off to much metal and heats up the metal to weaken the metal, it also effects the Angel. Stihl makes an awesome Sharpener that lowers the rack to the perfect point at the same time. In other words I disagree with you.
Ironically I discovered hand filing does the best sharpening also. Been sharpening with a bench grinder 16 years and found last week that a file does the best job... thanks for confirming
Ditto! Tried a few gadgets. None lived up to their hype. I always went back to hand filing, but after a few times doing so I got "diminishing returns". This is the first person I recall that talks about the gullet in a clear fashion.
Old fashioned way . No gadgets or guides needed . My Sthil has a faint line at the back of each tooth to show correct angle for the tooth . Use anything as a straight edge across two teeth , to see your Raker height . No special tools to be bought or stored or carried along . May need more practice , and seeking good advice ( but ) Ironically , training your hand and eye , gives pretty good results . Cheers
Chainsaw sharpening is an art. People have their own methods. I am have been a professional arborist for 30 years. I sit on a milk crate or cooler, place the saw upright against my leg, find the worst tooth, sharpen until the sharp, counting strokes, then repeat on both sides. If you use the right size file you will sharpen the tooth and get the gullet at the same time. There is never a one size fits all amount of stokes. Sometimes 5 strokes does it whereas it may take 15 per tooth. Pitch and angle are very important. After sharpening the the teeth, I will hit each guide with a flat file with one stroke. I must be doing something right because no one has ever complained after cutting with a saw I worked on.
I have been doing it like this for years. But i do it in one stroke -i start at the bottom and work my way up and round and push through at the top for the cutting edge- every 5th time i sharpen the teeth i add the raker in with a couple of strokes. Only push the sharpner through to sharpen if you pull it will slightly dull the cutting edge.I also use a spark plug brush to take away any swarf/bits left on the cutting edge! About time someone showed how its done!!!!!!
I'm old school and I have always felt I do a better job with a hand file. I think that touch ups are important too. If the chain isn't really dull, just a quick job will help a lot. I have used the Stihl all-in-one sharpener, but I still like hand sharpening.
the issue i see with the all in one is the flat file wears down and the guys only change out the tooth file. It really annoys me because it really screws up how the whole setup gets.. and then the complain about strange things that start happening and dont bother to realise what the real issue is
If you flip the saw upside down in the vice, the body of the saw is out of the way and you can sharpen more teeth without moving the chain. Also when you have a brand new file use nice light strokes until you break it in. The files are acid sharpened and the cutting edges are very fragile. If you put too much pressure on those edges big chunks break off making the file dull. If you use light strokes then just little chunks break off keeping a sharper file.
I knew about the acid sharpening of the files. But break in time I didn't, maybe that's why my files suck after a while 😂😂😂👊😎 common sense right in front of you... you just don't think about it. 👊😎🤪 thanks for the tip.
Simple tips took me years to learn(!) : 1) Color a tooth top with a Sharpie so you can quickly see when your sharpening loop is complete. 2) Over time the sawbar groove top surface can flatten out beyond the bar edge so I file away the splay both sides to restore uniform bar thickness. 3) If you don't have a grapple but have a tractor bucket with/without digging teeth, roll the log against the bucket edge on the ground with a cant hook then tie the cant hook handle to your upper center bucket hook (or use a hook on your tie for the bucket top lip) then lift the log so you have an instant sawhorse regardless. 4) Use a wire brush or hatchet away any underlog dirt at each area to be finish-cut before you finish the cut -through after your 75% upper log cuts even if you've no way to lift your log and/or keep it mud-free.
here in NC we go from cold to nice off and on much of the season so we dont always want a fire, i learned about banking only a few years ago after burning wood exclusively for over 30 years. i built a fire in November and it didnt go out till mid march. i dont miss starting fires
Been in the logging and tree service for 43 years have sharpened by file and grinder had one like yours but ended up getting 2 Oregon ones it's best to use two or three chains throughout the day when one gets dull switch it out with a sharp one as soon as you think it's getting dull and then spend 15 minutes sharpening all of them on the grinder will keep your production up. I use a cheap Windsor Carlton or Forester brand chain might not last as long but I'd rather have three sharp ones than one that I'm fighting with, the three of the cheaper ones will cost about the same thing as a good Oregon or stihl
I applaud you for posting this vid and subjecting yourself to all the experts who shower you with their self righteous wisdom. They want everyone to believe they fell out of a vagina knowing how to sharpen a chain
I quit sharpening freehand 45 years ago. I use a Granberg jig. This maintains the angles I want for hard and soft woods, keeps me from over-filing and saves me a lot of money on chain. The jig fits in my tool bag and I can use it anywhere. While it won’t give me a new ‘out-of-the-box’ chain it’s close and makes cross-cutting and ripping much more productive and yes... There’s that great feeling I get when the saw cuts like going through butter. Good video.
You still have a lot to learn about hand filing. Reading through the comments others have already pointed it out. My Old Man owned a sawmill, my uncles and grandfather were loggers, so I grew up in that business. I've been sharpening saws for sixty years, and I can make them cut, but I don't claim to be great at it. The very best way to learn to hand file is to buy a guide that clamps to the bar & holds the file at the correct angle. When you're done filing every single tooth is exactly the same and correct. Then use a guide for the rakers to get them correct. Don't forget to inspect the bar and lubricate the roller. That said, I bought a cheap bench grinder from Harbor Freight. After learning to use it, I LIKE it. I no longer get cramps in my hand after filing a dozen chains, the wheels are a lot cheaper than files, and no one has ever complained about how the chains cut. Most say their chain has never been sharper, even when new. The one hint I can give about using a grinder is do NOT over heat the tooth. LIGHTLY & BRIEFLY touch the grinder to the tooth, allowing the tooth a second to cool before repeating. A half dozen light hits with the grinder will have the tooth sharp and properly shaped and the same size as the other teeth. Then file the rakers to the correct depth.
My teacher always said when it is below zero and/or the wood is covered in snow, the chain will get dull faster than in non frozen wood. I will try to wipe the snow of or just knock it of with another piece of wood. I myself and my co workers at work always use these file guides that you put on the file, they will help with sharpening the edge of the cutters and in the same pass creating the half moon shape. If used in the right way, those guides guarantee a sharp chain
If you are cutting frozen green wood try sharpening your chain a little more square with the bar and step up one size with your file. It won’t cut quite as fast but it will not dull as quickly.
I didn't realize how little interaction with the ground it actually takes to dull a saw. I knew not to cut into the ground but I thought incidental contact here and there wouldn't hurt. So wrong. That little bit will save me a lot in the future. Thank you!
Brother You can do it in the same pass watch those long timer saw guys roll there wrist as they are moving forward also make sure you use a large enough file so hit hits both. You’ve definitely came a long way in four years!! I enjoy your videos. ! You have a peaceful energy about and always come across humble about things not like you think you have it all figured out!! God bless Andy.
Hi Tom ( Scotland ) A great Video, I live in a council house so a petrol Saw is out! I have an electric Saw minted, But being 73 sharpening my blade is my worst nightmare. I do have an electric sharpening machine, it is only good for my bench saw, I sharpen by hand, your Tips for a young fella' Are just the job for me. I have saved your video for future Tuition, Hope you Don't Mind.
Another tip (you may already know this ) I learned last year that the most efficient way to saw through wood , is in fact the rocking back and forth from nose to dogs pretty well , not just straight cut where you leave your saw level and cut through that way , it helped me alot
good tip, if you don't saw clean wood. (e.g. clear loads of small trees / bug bushes), where you need to saw near the ground. often you have dirt on and in the wood (sometimes even small gravel). so the chain dulls extremely quickly. can't stop every 5 min to resharpen.
In essence acts like a skip tooth. You are only using half the teeth on the bar when you rock like that. = less drag higher rpms. Change over to a skiptooth chain and you can keep the bar flat but still only be using 'half the teeth'
I always file from the opposite side than you demonstrated into the tooth to prevent a wire edge from forming on the cutting edge. Kinda like sharpening a knife edge. Your technique for the 2 step sharpening is spot on to get the entire cutting edge sharp but I seem to get a cleaner sharper edge filling from the other side.
Watched a few of your videos and finally subscribed but 74 years old and cutting many many years with chainsaw for firewood. Ole meat cutter previously so knew how to form that burr on a knife edge and once burr is off from sharpening it's razor sharp. I just switched that to chain tooth and hand file - tried other ways and it's sharpest and faster for me
One thing that I find interesting is that I see sharpening a chain saw chain like sharpening a knife or a wood chisel. Keeping a constant angle while sharpening, but the chain flexes back or forth as the file is guided in order to sharpening it. If you tighten the chain tension as to have less flexibility in the chain you should have a more consistent angle or a straighter edge. Where as if the chain flexes alot you have a more rounded edge that would dull faster. Yes you would have to loosen the chain every time you wanted to rotate it then retighten it again to sharpening. Maybe I'm over thinking it but I usually sharpen the chain around every 4-5 fuel fill up
I never used full chisel I've always used semi it's I'm always in dirty firewood. But I also touch up the chain after every tank and I never have a problem going dull.
I started swinging a saw when i was 14. The guy i learned from showed me how to file a chain and wouldn't let me run the saw till i could sharpen to his satisfaction 10 times. It took me 2 days to get it right and now at 57 i can file my saw without my glasses on. This was definitely a good video for beginners
otatime 2 I was kidding, just a little poke. I totally believe and can attest to it. A new chain is only a partially sharp chain compared to what hand filing is capable of producing. It took me years to get to where you are. Thinking I had it figured only to prove myself wrong.
Like most of us I’ve been cutting for sometime. Recently a guy mentioned dragging your wood out of the bush is not the best idea, considering how much dirt ends up on the bark, then we end up cutting through it. Have to admit I never gave it a lot of thought, unless it was seriously covered in dirt. I plan to make a log hauler that is not complicated, only two 12in wheels at one end and the other to ATV/Tractor say 6-8 “ long. Thats gotta help save the chain somewhat.
4yrs, I have been cutting for 40 yrs, and I am thinking why am I watching this guy's video . But I did learn something and then learned more from the comments so thanks.
Good stuff - Here's another top tip to give you an even sharper edge - ROLL THE FILE (approx 1/4 of a turn counter-clockwise as you push) this smooth twist of the wrist will sharpen that top edge even more.
I think a good thing to mention is sometimes you may need an over sized round file for your chain or an under sized round file on hand because sometimes pending the shape of the tooth on the chain you will need it for correcting damaged teeth. It helps get the half moon shape back perfectly
Agree with the other comments on tightening the chain. Get it so tight that its a bit of a struggle to move it, and the sharpening goes better. I've never been a pro, but have been cutting firewood for 50 years, starting with an ungodly heavy Mac. I also tried grinder options and hand files always won out. Like so many things, the quality of files has gone downhill. Nicholson used to be good. But now the best I can find are pferd, but I have not yet tried the Vallorbe files.
The electric chainsaw sharpener you showed at first is often miss-used and that's why it does not get good results. What you pointed out is right. With electric sharpener, first don't touch the face of the tooth but sharpen the gullet. Then as you raise the sharpener, push-in on the sharpener wheel as you exit to sharpen the face. You will get better results this way. Forth years of sharpening chains teaches you things. Hope this is helpful.
Check out the stihl 2-1. For me it works well. Another thing I think helps prolong chain sharpening intervals is cut up wood in the woods on forest floor and when possible cut from bottom up. Don’t quote me but I feel that cutting from the bottom brings the chips around the nose of the bar acting as a buffer between ground and chain and blows chips away from saw instead of back into clutch and housing and yourself.
I'm loving mine. I used to get about 1 file to a 84 driver full house chain and the files seem to last a lot longer in the 2-1. I've gone through 3 chains and the files are just starting to get dull. They are a weird size though
I will never disagree that hand filing is or can be more accurate. What I can say is that what ever method you use it can be perfected to create box sharp chains. I use a hand file to touch up and my Oregon 620-120 to take it back to original. No one is a loser in this if you understand what you are doing and commit to a process.
Working in the woods every day with a saw one develops the skill to make a saw cut free hand. This is true for a chain right of the box, not sharp, well not sharp enough. Needs to be touched up with a file. Now that I am not running a saw all day, every day, the out of the box chain seems good enough for me now. The skill one looses from not being active is also apparent when I walk up to the tree. Look for the lean and not seeing it right. My experience is if you don't use it you loose it.. this is what separates the pros from the rest of us.
Yep, thats what I always say "box sharp". It took me 4 years as well to really get my handfiling to the point I could make a dull chain "box sharp". I got a Stihl 2-1 file and I have given up handfiling. It takes the rakers down perfectly in the same stroke. Its just less work and that's my gig.
Most of what you say is true. I've cut wood for over 40 years and "honing a blade" can be done well with a file and often faster that changing out a blade. But damaged chains from hitting overgrown stones or metal like deep buried fencing nails etc. especially "nicking" the metal will not allow fast filing because the damage is too severe and often one sided. The grinding blade you passed on is the only reasonable tool for those types of chain refreshing problems. Pitch is something that must be meticulously observed. Saw teeth must be exact length and angle on both sides of the chain or the saw will "curl cut" instead of straight cut. When sparks fly you are taking radical metal from your blades and three or four licks with a file will often not put your blade back in balance. Carry spare chains to swap out and save your day for cutting rather than filing while the weather is good. A rainy day and the bench mound grinder properly adjusted will turn those damaged blades back into sharp balanced blades that cut fast and straight. Even though the teeth are smaller from the stone or metal damage the blade will be aggressive and cut effectively.
I agree. The information this man has presented is very good, however, after hand filing for decades I have learned to use a cheap HF grinder and flex the plastic parts as if Im hand filing. (and then dressing rakes) This makes for curly, fast, straight, and like new chain bliss. I cut mostly maple, cedar, hemlock, and fir...and rocks
@@jasondutter1 Sometimes you can't help but "rock-on." I got a deal at TSC a number of years ago on a disc grinder with an extra disc that was meant to be bench mounted. I made a frame so I could pop it in and out of my bench vise. I took a brand new chain and set the disc for pitch etc and marked everything so now switching from left or tight is easy and the pitch is very close to exact. As long as I am not doing stone or metal damage I don't take long doing 15- 20 chains. About a half hour. I had a collection of "bad on one side" chains that a file was a waste on. I don't cut so much now and have to put blades waiting to be touched up in oil or they have a tendency to rust from condensation.
Great video Adam. just wanted to share, i had a logger show me once that if you twist the file as you push it thru it can take care of the gullet and the cutting edge at the same time. seems to work well for me.
Yep get that chain tight on the bar, jam your scrench between the bottom of the bar and chain. You don’t want the chain to move when filing. Just a tip.. if you use an oversized file it will get your gullet and the cutting edge all in the same swipe. Mark your first tooth with a sharpie.
Wrong. The key is in the shape of the file teeth. They are unidirectional by design to cut in one direction only. If you really believe it doesn't matter how you drag a file back and forth on hardened toolsteel with no apparent difference in longevity, then go ahead and run your drillbits and endmills and ANY other machine tool cutters in reverse and tell me how long they last.
Because toolsteel, as opposed to mild steel is what your chain cutters and your file is made from. Toolsteel is a general term that refers to types of steel with enough carbon to make them "heat treatable". Your cutters are hardened, your files are hardened even "harder". That's the only way one can cut the other.
dang, that was a fine demonstration. I figured if it took ya that long is worth watching. Don't have chainsaw, but important to know how to sharpen tools. Great job, massive improvement.
I was very lucky when I was young to get a lot of tuition from a friend with a lot more experience than me. For logs covered in mud I always use an axe or spade either to peel the bark off completely or chip the mud holding bark away on the cut line. If the log is on the ground cut 3/4 through, then roll the log with a cant hook. Yes it takes a little time, but it’s a lot better than spending cutting time sharpening your chain.
I'll second the 2-in-1 tool recommendation. Also, the same tool is available from a variety of other manufacturers for other saws, e.g. Husqvarna, Pferd, etc. The 2-in-1 tool makes sharpening a snap. That said, even a plain filing guide for your chain is a great improvement over the "file the depth gauge, cut, repeat" process. You can get the depth gauges exactly to the proper height relative to the teeth on the first try. Naturally, make sure the round file is the right size for the chain. Using the wrong size file is going to put the shape of each tooth out of whack relative to the rest of the chain geometry.
Got my Stihl 2-in-1 about a year ago. I’ve got sharpening down to 5 minutes. I get brand new condition every time. It’s a no brainer for me. I like not having to mess with multiple files and worrying about all the angles.
There is a stump vise that pounds into a tree stump with two pointed barbs, then will hold your bar, so you can do it right in the field. Dress the edges every 3 or four hours, the guys that use one or two tanks are right on it, if you keep it sharp you only need to a couple of strokes . You should see the part you filed shiny, following the factory cut angles will train your hands and eyes to the correct angle, and the thing about the height of the raker is very important. If you see powder instead of big chips you know its dull. I saw a video on a guy that made a vise out of a tree stump still standing Took about 39 seconds and he was filing. It takes time to develop these skills and learn the mysteries. You are doing great. Most of all, wear leather gloves while sharpening chains. If you don't, you will soon learn why I offer this advice. Merry Christmas and may God bless you during the new year.
Friends , I watched tons of hand filing videos. I sucked. I watched Billy one time all the way through paid attention and the first time I sharpen the chain with a file after that I was a pro.
@@davidbryant5844 I agree. I learned more from Buckin in one video then I did in years just going at it on my own. His eye-in-the-sky close ups that got me to put on some reading glasses and take a good look at exactly what I was doing. It was a game changer.
Love your videos. I work in the sawmill industry, for most sawmills the debarker allows the scanners to get a better view of the log before its bucked into blocks.
Agreed - don't cut on the backstroke, roll the file but first thing to do is to check the "points" on the teeth. Each tooth should have a nice sharp angle on the point. If the point is rolled, beat or burred at all it will shine - the light collects on the roll. You have to get rid of the rolled edge and make a sharp point or all your sharpening will be wasted. I used to cut and pile 5 cord of pulpwood a day. The guy working the strip next to me cut and piled 7 cord a day and he only had one lung. He felt bad for me one day and showed me the bad points on my chain and helped me with sharpening. Quick way to get rid of a rolled point is to use a one size over file on the point to get the nice V then use a proper size to get under the top edge and roll in for the crescent moon. File stroke, roll, lift and no back drag.
I hope I can help you with your chain sharpening. That chain grinder you need to bump good for making sparks and that’s about it. I am an Australian and we have some of the hardest woods anywhere. I have also been lucky to work around the world and soon found out about the young bull and the old bull story. So I started asking why they constantly out cut the young ones. And getting quite a few answers that were the same or nearly the same so you start to take note. So with all the old timers that have shared there knowledge comes to around 700 years of experience. If you want a chain that cuts better than out of the box so here goes. Now if you go to where you are talking about rakers (depth gauges) and Andrew from north west splitters I think, shows a tooth in good detail that I will talk about. If you take a look at the tooth you will see a line at the chain top level, now if you take notice when the factory put the first grind in it just went below that line. You will notice that your tooth rises from that on a steady rise toward the top of your chain, You are starting to get a back lean in your tooth. To fix this you need to take the gullet down to this line or what I call the 3 witness mark this should take it down so you can see just the thickness of the steel in the chain now the gullet has been removed. Now we need to work on the tooth cutting surfaces if you are using 3/8 chisel chain you will need the 7/32 file and I would suggest purchasing a file holder with the angles marked in it. This set the top plate cutting depth correctly wether you use the 10 degree handle drop or the straight 90 degree this sets your working point perfectly, If you are filing by hand and you are going to deep or to high your working point is useless. If you are using chipper chain or semi chisel the point is less crucial. You may need to go down to a 13/64 file but check the 3 witness mark on the back of the tooth if you are on the line or just below or just above the line and are taking out the gullet that’s the right file, this also works for the smaller chain and bigger chain. Now with the degrees on the plate 10 25 30 35 If you are cutting very soft wood and very clean you can use the 35 it cuts faster but looses its edge quicker, the 25 cuts slower but stays sharper longer, that’s why ripping chain is set for 10 degrees holds the edge the longest but is very slow. Ok the gullet is gone and the chain is sharp the rakers/depth gauges are next get the single tooth depth gauge stihl call them a file gauge and Husqvarna have them Origen have them Carlton have them. If you use the ones that are the long ones they only average out over the two teeth if you have a big tooth in the front and a calf worn out one at the back it kicked it up an the opposite if it the other way around. The single tooth sets every tooth to take the same thickness of chip off the full tooth to the smallest tooth. I have proven this on a new chain by removing half a tooth on all teeth on one side and leaving the full new on the other and still cutting a straight cut because the were taking off the same side chip. I generally use the stihl ones at the moment because the handle the safety chain the bast, as we can’t get a lot of chain at the moment. They have a soft or hard wood marking that sets the soft wood side a little deeper than the hard side. Once you have done all this your chain will cut better than out of the box chains. I hope this helps, cheers and have good holidays.
The top of the tooth separates fibers while the gullet cuts the fibers; both need to be sharp and properly shaped. I knew dirt messed up your chain but I was amazed just how LITTLE contact was needed to mess it up! I generally try to set a cutoff under the log to get it off the ground and cut it that way but I like the grapple idea better; easier on the back! Thanks for the heads up!
A raker guage is a handy little tool to help with getting the right depth of cut...I'll usually free hand it but check the rakers every 3 or 4 sharpenings. Good video.
Check out Buckin Billy ray if you really want to learn out to hand file, you are on the right track but have a ways to go. No shade your way great video. Also another tip tighten your chain before filing.
yes, and then after sharpening, loosen it back to normal tension so you don't prematurely stretch the chain and ruin your sprocket. If you check your bar nuts, you don't have to tighten them while sharpening - just wait till loosening the chain.
@@jimwittneben7719 actually that's only true when you're running your saw and the chain is warm it's going to loosen up a little bit so when you tighten it again height then at the end of the day when you're done if you store your chainsaw without loosening the chain that is true the chain will get cold it will stretch the chain and hurt your sprocket but not if it's been put away cold and you tighten it to sharpen it you can leave it like that if you want
yes. It pained me to watch the angle of the chain pitch sharply when the drivers left the bar...and that horrible sound of the file being used on the backstroke stopped the video...right there, lol. seriously!
@@jimhofoss9982 I agree. That was a show stopper for me also. It's difficult for me to have much confidence in the quality of information when folks don't understand the basics. And proper file usage is about as basic as it gets.
@@davesilvia9711 I get that but when ur in the woods n ya wrap a rock or somethin with a 372xp at full rpm, a power sharpener is necessary to fix the chain fast. But thats why we would go to the job with extra chains. N we fix em all up at once at the end of the day. Shit happens all the time loggin.
Hometown Acres you should look for the Guilty of Treeson you tube channel, they did a whole series on sharpening chain. Best is actually a square file, but I haven't learned that technique. Highly recommend the Stihl tool others have mentioned (have one myself). If your file is the correct size, you shouldn't have to lift on a second pass; it'll get the top tooth and gullet each pass. What most folks forget is that the gullet should be a semi circle that curves under the top of the tooth rather than a straight line down from it. Former wildland firefighter/sawyer. Great channel; giving me some ideas.
Been cutting wood for 40 years your right and its nice to take a black felt marker and mark the first link so that you don't miss one or over sharpen them.keeping track of them. Beavers taught me that. L.o.L have fun
As I was taught by a faller fifty years ago now, start with the file low and as it moves forward twist the file in your hand and lift. This covers the whole face of the tooth from bottom to top in one pass and spinning the file uses the whole file and helps to keep it clean. Use only 2 or three passes, sharpen lightly but frequently.
Twist shouldn't be needed. Round files are spiral ground.
Amen brother that's how I do it and Never drag a file backwards .
I don't think his point was about better sharpening per se, but to twist in order to use the entire file surface to avoid clogging up one side of the file with sawdust.
William that is exactly the technique I learned in the woods when I was falling except it included Edward Lester's comment to never drag a file backwards. I cringe when I see someone drag a file.
@@dwighthires3163 dragging a file does almost nothing negative compared to lifting and resetting. There have been scientific experiments done, and they showed no average difference. Just FYI.
Been cutting with, and sharpening, chain saws for 48 years now. My favorite hobby. This video has VERY good insights and advice. I personally use one hand for the file, and the other gloved hand to hold the tooth steady in the bar's slot....makes for a consistent mating file to tooth. I also, as noted below, put a 1/4 turn twist in each stroke....razor sharp, friends. Enjoy...stay warm...and be safe!
It's so sl to hear anybody freely say "this took me four years to figure out." Props to you for being a humble guy and passing along your well-earned knowledge. Obviously good folks watching the video, too. Merry Christmas, y'all.
Good man... for sure
sl?!
I’ve been falling timber in British Columbia since I was a teen. Hand sharpening is the only way to go, two firm passes with the right size file on either side, one pass on the rakers every third sharpening, takes about five minutes on a 24” bar and with practice to get the angle memorized, you should have big bright chips every time.
Agree
Me thinkus this guy has to be a slow learner! Four years. And I agree with you, hand sharpening is the best.
I file every other fill
Pretty much exactly what I do while on the fire line.
Well buzz not knowing how old you are now sharpening is an art form doesn’t matter what your sharpening I understand but I’m kind of picky about how shit gets sharpened I have a jig because I’m a homeowner when you’re in the field you give her tits he could take this back in the shop sharpen it up shit he’s at home he should have more than one chain ready to go but it is an art form you don’t do it right you just throw that chain in the garbage sorry I’m rambling Unfortunately for this fella he spent a lot of money on junk
I'm an arborist that's been running and sharpening saws for over 40 years. The Stihl and Pferd 2 in 1 sharpeners are the best thing going. Files your rakers to proper depth and sharpens the cutter at the same time. Try em, you won't be disappointed.
Agreed mate , just picked up two of those . Work fantastic
I enjoy stihl sharpener just as much as holding a loose file=)
@@reallife9036 My enjoyment comes when I stick it in the tree and the chips fly.
@@raytyre750 Absolutely agree. The efficiency is unmatched, especially out in the field.
Guys learn to file by hand,nothing beats it "LEARN TO FILE " !!!
All the information I've found about hand filing is quite adament to avoid dragging files back against the material. Make a filing stroke, lift the file away and then have another go, but not back and forth like a washboard. Good video. Nice presentation and no wasted time. Thank you.
Look again, that's a myth, ruclips.net/video/xbykic--SKA/видео.html
As some others have said:
1. Tighten - over tighten the chain for sharpening, this keeps the file and tooth at 90 deg.
2. Make sure you have the right size file, it’s usually written on the box of a new chain. Buy two files per chain.
3.File - push the file- towards the sharpened edge only, do not draw it back across the tooth on the backstroke.
4. Those new file guides with two round files and one flat file combined made by, Stihl and others, work well.
5. Maintain the proper angle horizontally between the file and the bar, ie. parallel to the hatch marks on the each tooth.
5. Practise man Practise, I got better at it as I sharpened more. Eventually, it becomes a ‘zen’ thing, Relaxing , and I love doing it!
6. Definitely clamp the saw in a vice, as shown.
Excellent summary.
I sharpen my saws with EVERY tank of gas.
2 or 3 strokes per tooth. Quick and easy.
North Central Florida
That rig made by stihl with the 2 rounds and 1 flat is the best sharpening rig out I use my every tank of gas and do 3 passes per tooth cuts like butter and str8. Best 40$ I ever spent
Ι use Stihl and it is amazing. However, there is a small metal "tool" to calibrate the guide in between the teeth
@@kokkinias hi are you referring to calibrating the Stihl 3-file sharpener? Please provide more info.
@@chasshaw7111 hey, no in case you don't have the three and only the classic one sharpner, there is an extra small metal device which shows you how much you have to remove from the guide inbetwen. I will try to find it and send you the link
Stihl 2 and 1 file I’ve been hand filing my chains for 20 years got it for Christmas last year simple easy and works great
I find it takes the rakers down too far for me. I gave mine away. I like to tune the chain to the power saw with the wood I'm currently cutting.
@@1d1hamby the stihl tool is simple to use for quick mindless sharpening. I've never seen a faster way to sharpen, doesn't mean it's perfect just easy.
Fact.. I tired every which way... and the Stihl one is just the best one I have found so far... yes its not like they are out of the box and the old timers can still out sharpen it but for out in the field on the fly it really really made it easy for me to get my saw back into shape fast
Take the raker file out of the 2in1 and just use the round files if the rakers are too low A few sharpenings later the rakers will be back in spec .... rinse and repeat
Fabz Acres 100% correct. The raker files are not set correctly on the 2 in 1. Wrong angle and way too much off.
Dremel makes a little device to go with those bits. Much better than trying to do it with a drill motor.
Always good to seek out advice, Im always learning. My buddy saved me a ton of time early on by telling me to switch to a shorter bar. Shorter bar less equals less sharpening time. He's been in the wood business for 40 years and like most have said already use good files and sharpen often there's really no shortcuts to getting a sharp chain.
Its absurd how many times a tooth hits the ground even with the slightest touch. The older I get the more aware I am of wearing protective gear. One slip to the leg alone in the woods and your probably finished without a tourniquet. Im embarrassed to admit how little I knew about chainsaws when I started 30 years ago, wish I had RUclips.
I ran both 16 and 18 inch bar for decades cutting firewood. Last year I bought a stihl 362 cm with a 25 inch bar and just bought a stihl 500i with a 25 inch light bar..
My back feels relieved... BTW 61 here...
" stand up and buck "
@@wittsend1961 I find filing less painful then a sore back, run the biggest bar that your saw can comfortably handle, my Stihl 066 is nicely balanced with a 33" bar but the 36 is easier to handle. Running skip tooth chain makes filing quicker but I don't know how well it works in hardwood, living in coastal BC it's all softwoods.
I take a paint pen and mark what will be my first tooth, when it comes around it is time to change direction and to the opposite facing teeth, until the marked one comes around again. No counting or losing count.
Me too. I use a red sharpie.
I use a black sharpie. Forgot to mention that
I just start at the odd colored link all the time. I think this is the link that they use when they "make" the chain.
@@HometownAcres My eyes aren't what they used to be. Hard for me to see the black one.
@@sharkman8810 told, if Stihl chain, the coloured link indicates if safety or pro type chain build.
Green, safety, low kickback etc
Orange, more experienced operators, less protection built-in. More aggressive cut.
Best advise I've gotten on here is don't let you chain get to dull they say to brighten it up every tank of gas but i get by with every 2 tanks hand file still works great.
Helpful hint: tighten your chain before you file, it keeps it in the guide groove, and helps you maintain better angles
I hold each tooth with one hand and sharpen with the other. That gives me the best control.
@@bobnewman534 I do that as well, reduces file chatter
My family owned a mower store. I am a small engine mechanic. Certified briggs and stratton tech, I have sharpened more than 1000 chains in my life. We prefer Oregon Semi Chisel at 3/8. The flat teeth hold their edge longer and bounce off debris, the hogged out kind have a sharper thinner edge that blunts faster and hooks onto debris which can snap the tooth off completely. I have seen chains run into star pickets, fencing wire, Nails, Screws.. you name it :D I came to say you got it right. Well done. As others have said tighten the chain and don't file on the backstroke. Make sure to file the rakers down under the level of the tooth peak if the teeth are really worn down. (raker height gauge preferred) Thanks for taking the time out to teach others.
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
Yeah, but where is the fun in that? Seriously though, electric chainsaws have a long way to go to compete with big pro saws. For smaller timber, they can be useful.
As a tool grinder for 35 years the rake angle ( the area that the chip follows after cut) is the most important. To keep that correct I use a file holder. It also shows the angle to the tooth. Well worth the time and money.
Great video, I’d like to confirm the Stihl 2 in 1 does a great job of filing the tooth and depth guide with perfect distance from tooth to depth guide. Also to stand out better I use old fashioned white out to mark the first tooth. Gary
I like the white-out idea to mark the starter tooth. I've been using kids colored sidewalk chalk. I put it on the side of the tooth.
I use my wife’s old fingernail polish , red is good !
Eventually, you'll learn to sharpen with one motion that effects the gullet as well as the cutting edge. You'll know when you see the file "marry" the top cutting edge. 3 strokes is usually all that it takes for a non abused chain. Be sure to use a 7/32 file for 3/8th chain. Was a professional logger and have been cutting wood for 45 yrs. Needed to hand sharpen a 20" bar in under 4 minutes.
THat is how i do it. make first the gully round, and with the right size file you see the top of the teeth get sharped and make a brim on it.
Cool
if you cant keep sharp , you cant keep up , we dont need ya . lol
What brand of chain and file do you prefer? Thanks in advance!
@@wwgbert Pherd for the files and Sthil for chains.
If the chain is off the bar, the file will correctly file the chain as the chain will not move back and forth. The bar used in the video has play and the drive links are not solid as needed to produce sharp edges. Dirt is an abrasive like a stone. If you hold the drive links in a vice with 2 steel pieces of angle iron and wash the bar and chain before filing, you will produce an new chain effect PS. Files only cut in the pushing direction. This info is only to help inform. Thanks J Carter
What a lifestyle. I start my morning by dropping a couple of logs, then at work I fell a few logs and at night I'm stihl sawing logs. These vids give me a woody! I gotta leaf now. See ya fellers!
You are very special
Been sharpening chains with a file since I was ten. Using two hands like he does always crowns the tooth. Much easier using one hand and tighten the chain more so the teeth don’t roll back and move around. Use my thumb on one side of the tooth to stabilize it. Have never had a problem sharpening a saw this way and always a out of the box result.
I find shoving a wedge on the underside between the bar & chain you will achieve ultra tension reducing the tacking of the chain during sharpening. Once you have complete one or a couple teeth take the wedge out move it along & re-wedge it.
Handy trick to free up the other hand if you want to refine alternative motions, angles & twisting. But I bet you can do a wicked sharpen if you've been doing it since 10yrs
Duane, How old are you now, 11?
@@martinkerker1190 good one bro...🤣
I've had really good results with the Stihl 2-1 sharpening tool. I know, it looks like a gimmick but it works and it's easy! Wranglerstar tested it on his channel and was surprised and impressed. Sharpens all of these edges in one pass.
I took a white marker and marked 30 degree angles on the vice jaws to guide my filling.
I would like to start off by saying thank you for posting this video. I have been running chain saws for about forty years now and I still found it helpful. just wanted to add another good way to check your rakers is to bore into your cut. If it cuts easy and the saw wants to go in with little to no help they are just right. If you're pushing and the chain is sharp, they need to come down. It will also let you know if they are too low. Thank you for letting this old timber faller pass on some advice. God Bless and be careful everyone.
This is exactly how my Father taught me to sharpen the chain years ago, he is an industrial machine re-builder, Lovely tutorial.
i been working with a chainsaw all my life ,and today . the first filling on my new chain is the sharpest that chain will ever be. sharper than factory .
Stihl makes the 2 in 1 file. Excellent tool. It’s all I use now.
I just bought a generic 2 in 1 myself, but haven't had the opportunity to use it yet.
@@wsfd4321 since I’ve been using it, and got good with it, I haven’t used anything else since. Great tool that’s worth the money.
This is what I use also. Great tool.
I was gonna leave the same comment. The wheel has been reinvented!
@@scottwarren8847 yes, sir, when used properly, that’s all ya need.
Years ago I worked for the US Forest Service and I spent the entire summer on a four man crew thinning and cutting standing timber to reduce the fire loads around a couple of big camp grounds that had major die off from spruce bark beetles. We were not required to buck or limb the downed timber, just get as many on the ground in a week as we could. I discovered that if I did a quick touch up with the file every time or every other time I fueled up that I was able to drop more trees on a tank of fuel then the others. The saw just ran more efficiently and it only took a couple of minutes once you learned the tricks of hand sharpening. The other advantage of always having a sharp chain was that I was much more accurate and had less hang ups then the others. A couple of guys consistently had issues and a few close calls and it almost always came back to them not taking care of their saws and or chain maintenance.
Excellent comment!
The steel to the one filing system works yet change my chainsaw life
TRY The Stihl 2 in 1 chainsaw sharpener & evaluate it. Some folks are really impressed with it. What do you think?
I am just an old backyard hack. You are one of the few that I have seen sharpen upwards at a 45-degree angle. I have tried filling flat and the result is definitely worse for me. I use a dremel checking occasionally with a strong magnifying glass and a good light. I only cut for a few hours now because I am older than dirt and can't last long. I was born right after they invented the wheel. Thank you for the good video. I am always trying to learn more than I forget. LOL
I use the little oregon bits like you showed EXCEPT I put them in a die grinder that spins 20,000 rpm and I get my chains razor sharp. I actually sharpen brand new chains before using them because I can get them to cut better. Also the other thing A LOT of people dont do like you said is lower the rakers as they sharpen a chain over and over. The rakers are what sets how deep of a cut each tooth on the chain takes. If you sharpen the chain over and over and dont lower the rakers it will never cut well.. You can adjust the rakers based on the HP of your saw, more HP the lower you can set them and really make some chips.. The other thing is that chain you show is a "safety chain" with rolled over rakers and they dont cut nearly as well as a "pro" chain with just straight up rakers....
true! homey is using a beginner chain, needs to run chisel skip chains, probably cut that tiny log in three seconds.
@@njonebale7889, full chisel chain definitely cut faster, but also dull faster. Sounds like he's dealing with a lot of dirty wood, so a semi chisel chain might be the better option for him. Especially if he hasn't learned the different techniques in cutting wood, so he doesn't drag the dirt through the wood when he makes his cuts.
Are all saftey chains supposed to have the depth gauges folded over like that? Pretty sure the chains I use on my ms250 are saftey chains (has the green link) and the rakers are straight up
Good info about rolled over rakers . Then comments about semi chisel and such
Grinding takes off to much metal and heats up the metal to weaken the metal, it also effects the Angel.
Stihl makes an awesome Sharpener that lowers the rack to the perfect point at the same time.
In other words I disagree with you.
Ironically I discovered hand filing does the best sharpening also. Been sharpening with a bench grinder 16 years and found last week that a file does the best job... thanks for confirming
Ditto! Tried a few gadgets. None lived up to their hype. I always went back to hand filing, but after a few times doing so I got "diminishing returns". This is the first person I recall that talks about the gullet in a clear fashion.
Amen
Old fashioned way . No gadgets or guides needed . My Sthil has a faint line at the back of each tooth to show correct angle for the tooth . Use anything as a straight edge across two teeth , to see your Raker height . No special tools to be bought or stored or carried along . May need more practice , and seeking good advice ( but ) Ironically , training your hand and eye , gives pretty good results . Cheers
Also try turning or rotating the file as part of your stroke to use your whole file and minimize build up on the file 👍 kool video Adam
Chainsaw sharpening is an art. People have their own methods. I am have been a professional arborist for 30 years. I sit on a milk crate or cooler, place the saw upright against my leg, find the worst tooth, sharpen until the sharp, counting strokes, then repeat on both sides. If you use the right size file you will sharpen the tooth and get the gullet at the same time. There is never a one size fits all amount of stokes. Sometimes 5 strokes does it whereas it may take 15 per tooth. Pitch and angle are very important. After sharpening the the teeth, I will hit each guide with a flat file with one stroke. I must be doing something right because no one has ever complained after cutting with a saw I worked on.
I have been doing it like this for years. But i do it in one stroke -i start at the bottom and work my way up and round and push through at the top for the cutting edge- every 5th time i sharpen the teeth i add the raker in with a couple of strokes. Only push the sharpner through to sharpen if you pull it will slightly dull the cutting edge.I also use a spark plug brush to take away any swarf/bits left on the cutting edge! About time someone showed how its done!!!!!!
I'm old school and I have always felt I do a better job with a hand file. I think that touch ups are important too. If the chain isn't really dull, just a quick job will help a lot. I have used the Stihl all-in-one sharpener, but I still like hand sharpening.
Same.
the issue i see with the all in one is the flat file wears down and the guys only change out the tooth file. It really annoys me because it really screws up how the whole setup gets.. and then the complain about strange things that start happening and dont bother to realise what the real issue is
If you flip the saw upside down in the vice, the body of the saw is out of the way and you can sharpen more teeth without moving the chain. Also when you have a brand new file use nice light strokes until you break it in. The files are acid sharpened and the cutting edges are very fragile. If you put too much pressure on those edges big chunks break off making the file dull. If you use light strokes then just little chunks break off keeping a sharper file.
I didn’t know about a file being fragile at first and the break in (and I know just about everything 😂) thanks for the tip.
My dad taught me that :-) About honing in new files, band saws, hacksaws, etc.
I knew about the acid sharpening of the files. But break in time I didn't, maybe that's why my files suck after a while 😂😂😂👊😎 common sense right in front of you... you just don't think about it. 👊😎🤪 thanks for the tip.
@@dougn4942 👍
Nope, I never knew that. Cheers.
Simple tips took me years to learn(!) : 1) Color a tooth top with a Sharpie so you can quickly see when your sharpening loop is complete. 2) Over time the sawbar groove top surface can flatten out beyond the bar edge so I file away the splay both sides to restore uniform bar thickness. 3) If you don't have a grapple but have a tractor bucket with/without digging teeth, roll the log against the bucket edge on the ground with a cant hook then tie the cant hook handle to your upper center bucket hook (or use a hook on your tie for the bucket top lip) then lift the log so you have an instant sawhorse regardless. 4) Use a wire brush or hatchet away any underlog dirt at each area to be finish-cut before you finish the cut -through after your 75% upper log cuts even if you've no way to lift your log and/or keep it mud-free.
here in NC we go from cold to nice off and on much of the season so we dont always want a fire, i learned about banking only a few years ago after burning wood exclusively for over 30 years. i built a fire in November and it didnt go out till mid march. i dont miss starting fires
You have no idea how much your video has helped. It is amazing
Been in the logging and tree service for 43 years have sharpened by file and grinder had one like yours but ended up getting 2 Oregon ones it's best to use two or three chains throughout the day when one gets dull switch it out with a sharp one as soon as you think it's getting dull and then spend 15 minutes sharpening all of them on the grinder will keep your production up. I use a cheap Windsor Carlton or Forester brand chain might not last as long but I'd rather have three sharp ones than one that I'm fighting with, the three of the cheaper ones will cost about the same thing as a good Oregon or stihl
I applaud you for posting this vid and subjecting yourself to all the experts who shower you with their self righteous wisdom. They want everyone to believe they fell out of a vagina knowing how to sharpen a chain
LOL
Well said.
If yoyre falling out of vaginas then you got bigger (or smaller) problems than a dull chain. My advice is to take shorter strokes ...
Some of us actual did though.. so its not that big of a deal if people want to help. It's just the rude or arrogant people that can jump off.
More than 50 % of younger folks never fell out of a vagina, their mums had Caesarian deliveries. How about yours? ;-)
Use the Stihl 2 in 1 file holder, it gets your rakers and the tooth perfectly every time you sharpen, it even has an angle guide to help you.
make sure you change out all files at the same time when needed. i work with guys that only change the tooth file and it screws everything up..
I quit sharpening freehand 45 years ago. I use a Granberg jig. This maintains the angles I want for hard and soft woods, keeps me from over-filing and saves me a lot of money on chain. The jig fits in my tool bag and I can use it anywhere. While it won’t give me a new ‘out-of-the-box’ chain it’s close and makes cross-cutting and ripping much more productive and yes... There’s that great feeling I get when the saw cuts like going through butter. Good video.
You still have a lot to learn about hand filing. Reading through the comments others have already pointed it out. My Old Man owned a sawmill, my uncles and grandfather were loggers, so I grew up in that business. I've been sharpening saws for sixty years, and I can make them cut, but I don't claim to be great at it. The very best way to learn to hand file is to buy a guide that clamps to the bar & holds the file at the correct angle. When you're done filing every single tooth is exactly the same and correct. Then use a guide for the rakers to get them correct. Don't forget to inspect the bar and lubricate the roller. That said, I bought a cheap bench grinder from Harbor Freight. After learning to use it, I LIKE it. I no longer get cramps in my hand after filing a dozen chains, the wheels are a lot cheaper than files, and no one has ever complained about how the chains cut. Most say their chain has never been sharper, even when new. The one hint I can give about using a grinder is do NOT over heat the tooth. LIGHTLY & BRIEFLY touch the grinder to the tooth, allowing the tooth a second to cool before repeating. A half dozen light hits with the grinder will have the tooth sharp and properly shaped and the same size as the other teeth. Then file the rakers to the correct depth.
My teacher always said when it is below zero and/or the wood is covered in snow, the chain will get dull faster than in non frozen wood. I will try to wipe the snow of or just knock it of with another piece of wood. I myself and my co workers at work always use these file guides that you put on the file, they will help with sharpening the edge of the cutters and in the same pass creating the half moon shape. If used in the right way, those guides guarantee a sharp chain
Wood that is "frozen" in the winter, is easier to cut than wood in the warmer weather. Has to do with the cells in the wood.
If you are cutting frozen green wood try sharpening your chain a little more square with the bar and step up one size with your file. It won’t cut quite as fast but it will not dull as quickly.
I always try to think of it like sharpening the chain and cutting a little wood in between sessions....
I didn't realize how little interaction with the ground it actually takes to dull a saw. I knew not to cut into the ground but I thought incidental contact here and there wouldn't hurt. So wrong. That little bit will save me a lot in the future. Thank you!
Brother
You can do it in the same pass watch those long timer saw guys roll there wrist as they are moving forward also make sure you use a large enough file so hit hits both. You’ve definitely came a long way in four years!! I enjoy your videos. !
You have a peaceful energy about and always come across humble about things not like you think you have it all figured out!!
God bless
Andy.
Hi Tom ( Scotland ) A great Video, I live in a council house so a petrol Saw is out! I have an electric Saw minted, But being 73 sharpening my blade is my worst nightmare.
I do have an electric sharpening machine, it is only good for my bench saw, I sharpen by hand, your Tips for a young fella' Are just the job for me. I have saved your video for future Tuition, Hope you Don't Mind.
Another tip (you may already know this )
I learned last year that the most efficient way to saw through wood , is in fact the rocking back and forth from nose to dogs pretty well , not just straight cut where you leave your saw level and cut through that way , it helped me alot
Righteous good comment . Shorter cutting surface . Maybe not technically correct , but experiment and find different techniques you like . Cheers
Sharp chain no need to do that put the saw in and let it eat
good tip, if you don't saw clean wood. (e.g. clear loads of small trees / bug bushes), where you need to saw near the ground. often you have dirt on and in the wood (sometimes even small gravel). so the chain dulls extremely quickly. can't stop every 5 min to resharpen.
In essence acts like a skip tooth.
You are only using half the teeth on the bar when you rock like that. = less drag higher rpms.
Change over to a skiptooth chain and you can keep the bar flat but still only be using 'half the teeth'
I always file from the opposite side than you demonstrated into the tooth to prevent a wire edge from forming on the cutting edge. Kinda like sharpening a knife edge. Your technique for the 2 step sharpening is spot on to get the entire cutting edge sharp but I seem to get a cleaner sharper edge filling from the other side.
I do as well. The "burr" from sharpening seems to effect the lifespan of the edge. My chain stays sharper longer.
I just commented the same thing...the edge gets too thin and breaks off on the first contact
It helps a lot to tighten your chain so you can just comfortably turn from tooth to tooth, this makes it more rigid and easier to sharpen.
Watched a few of your videos and finally subscribed but 74 years old and cutting many many years with chainsaw for firewood. Ole meat cutter previously so knew how to form that burr on a knife edge and once burr is off from sharpening it's razor sharp. I just switched that to chain tooth and hand file - tried other ways and it's sharpest and faster for me
One thing that I find interesting is that I see sharpening a chain saw chain like sharpening a knife or a wood chisel. Keeping a constant angle while sharpening, but the chain flexes back or forth as the file is guided in order to sharpening it. If you tighten the chain tension as to have less flexibility in the chain you should have a more consistent angle or a straighter edge. Where as if the chain flexes alot you have a more rounded edge that would dull faster. Yes you would have to loosen the chain every time you wanted to rotate it then retighten it again to sharpening. Maybe I'm over thinking it but I usually sharpen the chain around every 4-5 fuel fill up
Make sure you're file isn't dull. They are cheap and a new one can save a ton of time
I never used full chisel I've always used semi it's I'm always in dirty firewood. But I also touch up the chain after every tank and I never have a problem going dull.
I started swinging a saw when i was 14. The guy i learned from showed me how to file a chain and wouldn't let me run the saw till i could sharpen to his satisfaction 10 times. It took me 2 days to get it right and now at 57 i can file my saw without my glasses on. This was definitely a good video for beginners
Better get your glasses and watch again.
Sidenote: files didn’t have a spiral pattern when you learned so the technique would be a little different.
@@briankennedy1313 I can put an edge on my chain that will out preform a new chain every time! With or without my specks on.
otatime 2 I was kidding, just a little poke. I totally believe and can attest to it. A new chain is only a partially sharp chain compared to what hand filing is capable of producing. It took me years to get to where you are. Thinking I had it figured only to prove myself wrong.
Thank you very much for posting this. Been using a saw myself for about 3 years and have never paid attention to the gullet. Nice work!
This is the best chainsaw sharpening video I've ever seen. Thank you!
basically the only video that actually teaches you how to sharpen a chain correctly.
Thanks for the tips Adam. I’m new to firewood and chainsaws and need to work on filing my own chains soon.
Nicely done, Adam. Thanks for sharing. -Ed
Like most of us I’ve been cutting for sometime. Recently a guy mentioned dragging your wood out of the bush is not the best idea, considering how much dirt ends up on the bark, then we end up cutting through it. Have to admit I never gave it a lot of thought, unless it was seriously covered in dirt. I plan to make a log hauler that is not complicated, only two 12in wheels at one end and the other to ATV/Tractor say 6-8 “ long. Thats gotta help save the chain somewhat.
4yrs, I have been cutting for 40 yrs, and I am thinking why am I watching this guy's video . But I did learn something and then learned more from the comments so thanks.
Good stuff - Here's another top tip to give you an even sharper edge - ROLL THE FILE (approx 1/4 of a turn counter-clockwise as you push) this smooth twist of the wrist will sharpen that top edge even more.
Final somebody got some damm sense
Agreed. I discovered that entirely by accident; it makes a big difference.
Good point . Cheers
They sell a gauge to set the height of the rakers
I think a good thing to mention is sometimes you may need an over sized round file for your chain or an under sized round file on hand because sometimes pending the shape of the tooth on the chain you will need it for correcting damaged teeth. It helps get the half moon shape back perfectly
That is a really good informative video sir I've been sharpening my chainsaws by hand since I was 12 years old and I'm 50 now
I usedto struggle to sharpen my chainsaw well every time till i watched Buckin billy Ray. Best way i ever learnt.
Agree with the other comments on tightening the chain. Get it so tight that its a bit of a struggle to move it, and the sharpening goes better. I've never been a pro, but have been cutting firewood for 50 years, starting with an ungodly heavy Mac. I also tried grinder options and hand files always won out. Like so many things, the quality of files has gone downhill. Nicholson used to be good. But now the best I can find are pferd, but I have not yet tried the Vallorbe files.
The electric chainsaw sharpener you showed at first is often miss-used and that's why it does not get good results. What you pointed out is right. With electric sharpener, first don't touch the face of the tooth but sharpen the gullet. Then as you raise the sharpener, push-in on the sharpener wheel as you exit to sharpen the face. You will get better results this way. Forth years of sharpening chains teaches you things. Hope this is helpful.
Check out the stihl 2-1. For me it works well. Another thing I think helps prolong chain sharpening intervals is cut up wood in the woods on forest floor and when possible cut from bottom up. Don’t quote me but I feel that cutting from the bottom brings the chips around the nose of the bar acting as a buffer between ground and chain and blows chips away from saw instead of back into clutch and housing and yourself.
I'm loving mine. I used to get about 1 file to a 84 driver full house chain and the files seem to last a lot longer in the 2-1. I've gone through 3 chains and the files are just starting to get dull. They are a weird size though
My man. I've been running chainsaws pretty often now for a few months and this video was on point. Thanks.
Great video. I will share a tip I got from my uncle years ago about sharpening. A larger file will sharpen gullet and leading edge at the same time.
I will never disagree that hand filing is or can be more accurate. What I can say is that what ever method you use it can be perfected to create box sharp chains. I use a hand file to touch up and my Oregon 620-120 to take it back to original. No one is a loser in this if you understand what you are doing and commit to a process.
Working in the woods every day with a saw one develops the skill to make a saw cut free hand. This is true for a chain right of the box, not sharp, well not sharp enough. Needs to be touched up with a file. Now that I am not running a saw all day, every day, the out of the box chain seems good enough for me now. The skill one looses from not being active is also apparent when I walk up to the tree. Look for the lean and not seeing it right. My experience is if you don't use it you loose it.. this is what separates the pros from the rest of us.
Yep, thats what I always say "box sharp". It took me 4 years as well to really get my handfiling to the point I could make a dull chain "box sharp". I got a Stihl 2-1 file and I have given up handfiling. It takes the rakers down perfectly in the same stroke. Its just less work and that's my gig.
I have the similar one for my husqvarna. I do have to flip the files around for opposite sides but that’s easy to do
I've gotten to the point where I'll tune/adjust/file the chain from the box, to the power saw and wood I'm currently cutting.
Most of what you say is true. I've cut wood for over 40 years and "honing a blade" can be done well with a file and often faster that changing out a blade. But damaged chains from hitting overgrown stones or metal like deep buried fencing nails etc. especially "nicking" the metal will not allow fast filing because the damage is too severe and often one sided. The grinding blade you passed on is the only reasonable tool for those types of chain refreshing problems. Pitch is something that must be meticulously observed. Saw teeth must be exact length and angle on both sides of the chain or the saw will "curl cut" instead of straight cut. When sparks fly you are taking radical metal from your blades and three or four licks with a file will often not put your blade back in balance. Carry spare chains to swap out and save your day for cutting rather than filing while the weather is good. A rainy day and the bench mound grinder properly adjusted will turn those damaged blades back into sharp balanced blades that cut fast and straight. Even though the teeth are smaller from the stone or metal damage the blade will be aggressive and cut effectively.
I agree. The information this man has presented is very good, however, after hand filing for decades I have learned to use a cheap HF grinder and flex the plastic parts as if Im hand filing. (and then dressing rakes)
This makes for curly, fast, straight, and like new chain bliss.
I cut mostly maple, cedar, hemlock, and fir...and rocks
@@jasondutter1 Sometimes you can't help but "rock-on." I got a deal at TSC a number of years ago on a disc grinder with an extra disc that was meant to be bench mounted. I made a frame so I could pop it in and out of my bench vise. I took a brand new chain and set the disc for pitch etc and marked everything so now switching from left or tight is easy and the pitch is very close to exact. As long as I am not doing stone or metal damage I don't take long doing 15- 20 chains. About a half hour. I had a collection of "bad on one side" chains that a file was a waste on. I don't cut so much now and have to put blades waiting to be touched up in oil or they have a tendency to rust from condensation.
Great video Adam. just wanted to share, i had a logger show me once that if you twist the file as you push it thru it can take care of the gullet and the cutting edge at the same time. seems to work well for me.
Yep get that chain tight on the bar, jam your scrench between the bottom of the bar and chain. You don’t want the chain to move when filing. Just a tip.. if you use an oversized file it will get your gullet and the cutting edge all in the same swipe. Mark your first tooth with a sharpie.
Some may use a plastic tree wedge on the bottom side between the bar and chain.
Love your "no nonsense" videos. Another good one Adam. Looking forward to your livestream with shifty!
Tighten up on that chain and QUIT dragging that file on the backstroke!
ruclips.net/video/6lxJ3E_UjtY/видео.html
Wrong. The key is in the shape of the file teeth. They are unidirectional by design to cut in one direction only. If you really believe it doesn't matter how you drag a file back and forth on hardened toolsteel with no apparent difference in longevity, then go ahead and run your drillbits and endmills and ANY other machine tool cutters in reverse and tell me how long they last.
Just look at file tooth profile at about 3:40 of the video you referenced.
@@keithmessinger75 Why are you blabbering about tool steel?
Because toolsteel, as opposed to mild steel is what your chain cutters and your file is made from. Toolsteel is a general term that refers to types of steel with enough carbon to make them "heat treatable". Your cutters are hardened, your files are hardened even "harder". That's the only way one can cut the other.
dang, that was a fine demonstration. I figured if it took ya that long is worth watching. Don't have chainsaw, but important to know how to sharpen tools. Great job, massive improvement.
I was very lucky when I was young to get a lot of tuition from a friend with a lot more experience than me. For logs covered in mud I always use an axe or spade either to peel the bark off completely or chip the mud holding bark away on the cut line. If the log is on the ground cut 3/4 through, then roll the log with a cant hook. Yes it takes a little time, but it’s a lot better than spending cutting time sharpening your chain.
I'll second the 2-in-1 tool recommendation. Also, the same tool is available from a variety of other manufacturers for other saws, e.g. Husqvarna, Pferd, etc. The 2-in-1 tool makes sharpening a snap. That said, even a plain filing guide for your chain is a great improvement over the "file the depth gauge, cut, repeat" process. You can get the depth gauges exactly to the proper height relative to the teeth on the first try.
Naturally, make sure the round file is the right size for the chain. Using the wrong size file is going to put the shape of each tooth out of whack relative to the rest of the chain geometry.
Got my Stihl 2-in-1 about a year ago. I’ve got sharpening down to 5 minutes. I get brand new condition every time. It’s a no brainer for me. I like not having to mess with multiple files and worrying about all the angles.
There is a stump vise that pounds into a tree stump with two pointed barbs, then will hold your bar, so you can do it right in the field. Dress the edges every 3 or four hours, the guys that use one or two tanks are right on it, if you keep it sharp you only need to a couple of strokes . You should see the part you filed shiny, following the factory cut angles will train your hands and eyes to the correct angle, and the thing about the height of the raker is very important. If you see powder instead of big chips you know its dull. I saw a video on a guy that made a vise out of a tree stump still standing Took about 39 seconds and he was filing. It takes time to develop these skills and learn the mysteries. You are doing great. Most of all, wear leather gloves while sharpening chains. If you don't, you will soon learn why I offer this advice. Merry Christmas and may God bless you during the new year.
I’ve been Cought slicing my finger open on a chain before when sharpening. Yes gloves are very important. I should have been wearing them
Buckin Billy Ray All you need to know about chainsaw and how to.
Buckin Billy Ray is the expert of experts on axes and wood splitting. Love that guy
its just common sence and look at the mirror from the glaze from file in the material.
Friends , I watched tons of hand filing videos. I sucked. I watched Billy one time all the way through paid attention and the first time I sharpen the chain with a file after that I was a pro.
@@davidbryant5844 I agree. I learned more from Buckin in one video then I did in years just going at it on my own. His eye-in-the-sky close ups that got me to put on some reading glasses and take a good look at exactly what I was doing. It was a game changer.
Couldn't agree more Adam I have the bench sharpener and other gimmicks but hand filing is where I get the best results.
Love your videos. I work in the sawmill industry, for most sawmills the debarker allows the scanners to get a better view of the log before its bucked into blocks.
Never pull a file backwards, it rolls the teeth over, wears it out quicker and just like your saw blade, makes it cut inefficiently.
It hurts to watch
Agreed - don't cut on the backstroke, roll the file but first thing to do is to check the "points" on the teeth. Each tooth should have a nice sharp angle on the point. If the point is rolled, beat or burred at all it will shine - the light collects on the roll. You have to get rid of the rolled edge and make a sharp point or all your sharpening will be wasted. I used to cut and pile 5 cord of pulpwood a day. The guy working the strip next to me cut and piled 7 cord a day and he only had one lung. He felt bad for me one day and showed me the bad points on my chain and helped me with sharpening. Quick way to get rid of a rolled point is to use a one size over file on the point to get the nice V then use a proper size to get under the top edge and roll in for the crescent moon. File stroke, roll, lift and no back drag.
@@cellerfeller1474 Reading all the good comments makes me wonder why the big corporations don’t give precise instructions for filing. Thanks youtube!
I hope I can help you with your chain sharpening. That chain grinder you need to bump good for making sparks and that’s about it. I am an Australian and we have some of the hardest woods anywhere. I have also been lucky to work around the world and soon found out about the young bull and the old bull story. So I started asking why they constantly out cut the young ones. And getting quite a few answers that were the same or nearly the same so you start to take note. So with all the old timers that have shared there knowledge comes to around 700 years of experience. If you want a chain that cuts better than out of the box so here goes.
Now if you go to where you are talking about rakers (depth gauges) and Andrew from north west splitters I think, shows a tooth in good detail that I will talk about. If you take a look at the tooth you will see a line at the chain top level, now if you take notice when the factory put the first grind in it just went below that line. You will notice that your tooth rises from that on a steady rise toward the top of your chain, You are starting to get a back lean in your tooth. To fix this you need to take the gullet down to this line or what I call the 3 witness mark this should take it down so you can see just the thickness of the steel in the chain now the gullet has been removed. Now we need to work on the tooth cutting surfaces if you are using 3/8 chisel chain you will need the 7/32 file and I would suggest purchasing a file holder with the angles marked in it. This set the top plate cutting depth correctly wether you use the 10 degree handle drop or the straight 90 degree this sets your working point perfectly, If you are filing by hand and you are going to deep or to high your working point is useless. If you are using chipper chain or semi chisel the point is less crucial. You may need to go down to a 13/64 file but check the 3 witness mark on the back of the tooth if you are on the line or just below or just above the line and are taking out the gullet that’s the right file, this also works for the smaller chain and bigger chain. Now with the degrees on the plate 10 25 30 35 If you are cutting very soft wood and very clean you can use the 35 it cuts faster but looses its edge quicker, the 25 cuts slower but stays sharper longer, that’s why ripping chain is set for 10 degrees holds the edge the longest but is very slow. Ok the gullet is gone and the chain is sharp the rakers/depth gauges are next get the single tooth depth gauge stihl call them a file gauge and Husqvarna have them Origen have them Carlton have them. If you use the ones that are the long ones they only average out over the two teeth if you have a big tooth in the front and a calf worn out one at the back it kicked it up an the opposite if it the other way around. The single tooth sets every tooth to take the same thickness of chip off the full tooth to the smallest tooth. I have proven this on a new chain by removing half a tooth on all teeth on one side and leaving the full new on the other and still cutting a straight cut because the were taking off the same side chip. I generally use the stihl ones at the moment because the handle the safety chain the bast, as we can’t get a lot of chain at the moment. They have a soft or hard wood marking that sets the soft wood side a little deeper than the hard side. Once you have done all this your chain will cut better than out of the box chains. I hope this helps, cheers and have good holidays.
Love the video Adam! I just started hand filing with mixed results. I think I’m gonna try out your method!
Only way to learn is screwing up chains and trying again haha
@@HometownAcres, Totally agree 👍
The top of the tooth separates fibers while the gullet cuts the fibers; both need to be sharp and properly shaped.
I knew dirt messed up your chain but I was amazed just how LITTLE contact was needed to mess it up!
I generally try to set a cutoff under the log to get it off the ground and cut it that way but I like the grapple idea better; easier on the back!
Thanks for the heads up!
A raker guage is a handy little tool to help with getting the right depth of cut...I'll usually free hand it but check the rakers every 3 or 4 sharpenings. Good video.
Check out Buckin Billy ray if you really want to learn out to hand file, you are on the right track but have a ways to go. No shade your way great video. Also another tip tighten your chain before filing.
When your sharpening your chain tighten up your chain more so it’s not coming out of the bar
yes, and then after sharpening, loosen it back to normal tension so you don't prematurely stretch the chain and ruin your sprocket. If you check your bar nuts, you don't have to tighten them while sharpening - just wait till loosening the chain.
@@jimwittneben7719 actually that's only true when you're running your saw and the chain is warm it's going to loosen up a little bit so when you tighten it again height then at the end of the day when you're done if you store your chainsaw without loosening the chain that is true the chain will get cold it will stretch the chain and hurt your sprocket but not if it's been put away cold and you tighten it to sharpen it you can leave it like that if you want
yes. It pained me to watch the angle of the chain pitch sharply when the drivers left the bar...and that horrible sound of the file being used on the backstroke stopped the video...right there, lol. seriously!
@@jimhofoss9982 Yup, files don't cut on the back stroke.
@@jimhofoss9982 I agree. That was a show stopper for me also. It's difficult for me to have much confidence in the quality of information when folks don't understand the basics. And proper file usage is about as basic as it gets.
My dads been in the timber buisness for a long time. To save time he uses the power sharpener first n touches up with a file.
You buy a good enough chainsaw sharpener and know what you're doing you don't need to file unless ur out in the bush
dont let it get so dull that you have to use a power sharpener, just a lick with a hand file every tank full and it stays sharp
@@davesilvia9711 I get that but when ur in the woods n ya wrap a rock or somethin with a 372xp at full rpm, a power sharpener is necessary to fix the chain fast. But thats why we would go to the job with extra chains. N we fix em all up at once at the end of the day. Shit happens all the time loggin.
Hometown Acres you should look for the Guilty of Treeson you tube channel, they did a whole series on sharpening chain. Best is actually a square file, but I haven't learned that technique.
Highly recommend the Stihl tool others have mentioned (have one myself).
If your file is the correct size, you shouldn't have to lift on a second pass; it'll get the top tooth and gullet each pass. What most folks forget is that the gullet should be a semi circle that curves under the top of the tooth rather than a straight line down from it.
Former wildland firefighter/sawyer.
Great channel; giving me some ideas.
Been cutting wood for 40 years your right and its nice to take a black felt marker and mark the first link so that you don't miss one or over sharpen them.keeping track of them. Beavers taught me that. L.o.L have fun