Thanks for this. I mostly figured it out for myself (with just a file), but your clear illustration and instruction really make it plain. And I never heard of a bar dressing tool, much less to keep up on bar maintenance like you do a chain. Well done.
I WAS CUTTING UP SOME FIREWOOD AND I HAPPENED TO NOTICE IT WAS CUTTING UNEVEN. 😅I REMOVED THE BURRS ON EACH SIDE OF THE BAR PUT THE CHAIN BACK ON AND STILL HAD THE SAME RESULTS. I TOOK IT TO A BE REALIGNED .THE MAN SAID THE BAR WAS DONE WITH FOR. I BOUGHT A NEW ONE TOOK IT HOME AND INSTALLED IT ON THE UNIT. FIRED IT UP AND STARTED CUTTING ONCE AGAIN AND IT WAS CUTTING PERFECT. SO.DONT BE WHAT IS CALLED TRYING TO MAKE IT CUT TO QUICK.
Had this problem bad this morning. First use after winter. I remember struggling to cut before i out it away. Switched chains and it now works perfectly so it isn't the bar - just my sharpening technique.
WoW. I'm really impressed by your craftmanship ! Did not know this phenomenon of curved cuts causef by an uneven baredge... Many thanks & season greetings 🎄 from 🇳🇱
Very good discussion/information. Thank you. Never noticed this as an issue with my smaller saws (under 18") but got A stihl MS660 with 32" bar a few years ago and am buggered if it will cut straight in big timber. Relpaced chain a few times without much effect. Will need to investigate the bar for sure now. Many thanks
Really helpful thanks, I have a old 28" bar that has never cut well and was relegated to the back of the workshop. Confusing as my sharpening was consistent after watching this and some significant file work I have now corrected it.
There is something to be said for letting the tool do the work but you have to pay attention with chainsaw regardless. I cut slabs freehand and the bar can do a lot of the aligning work for you. Don't forget the perpendicular line on the side of the saw, that is pretty useful as well.
Very nice and informative to those that wish to undertake bar dressing. It's fun doing your own maintenance, Proper maintenance makes efficiency! Happy holiday!
good info, i have an almost new Oregon bar and chain that is doing this, i made sure left and right cutting teeth were same length but still cuts off,,, i have watched many 'fancy' channels for an answer and never really got one. i will now go check what you just taught me. Thanks!!
Before getting a decent belt sander with a good fence, I used my table saw with a large fine grit stone wheel that fit the arbor. Also, like you did, got to confirm the table was square to the stone. Be very gentle doing that however. Still required a dressing tool. Nice work and video.
@@gorgeoutdoors It does and I did the same one time on my old Shop Smith set up as a table saw. I don't know how safe that is to spin a stone so fast though so now I just use the belt sander. take care!
Thats a nice Vidja on bar maintenance. I the past I used to "Just Buy a New Bar", now I dress them, for extended life. I dont have the right tool as U do, but I touch them up with a bench grinder. Its a little crude, but with OK results.
Several things can cause a saw to cut crooked. An unevenly worn bar or even just a wire edge . A bent bar. The angles on the chain need to be the same side to side and tooth length the same. The rakers need to be filed evenly. Bars are cheap, so replace it if need be, and learn to file correctly. Also, make sure you're not torquing the saw while cutting.
I’ve had chains jacked up pretty bad on the left side cutters only which I had to file far back a lot more than the right and once I finally got the left side back to sharp and also the right side cutters sharp it still cuts straight down even on a 30” log. So the teeth don’t actually need to be evenly filed
More often than not if it's cutting a curve it's an unevenly sharpened chain get a good electric chain sharpener or take it to someone who has. 9 times out of 10 it will cut straight again.
@@jeepinass Got news for you buddy, my Foley Belsaw, Chain Mate has done an excellent job since I bought it as a Husky dealer in the late 80's. Never had any complaints. Yes if you're sawing in competition fileing is better done by an expert but for general use an electric grinder run correctly is great. Many want to grind way more than needed, often burning teeth so they can sell more chain but that's operator, not grinders flaw.
If the chain checks out correctly, it's likely the bar. Try checking the bar with a straight edge, or a small square and flashlight. Check tension, mounts, bar studs, cover and components.
Take 2 2x4 and cut a notch in the end this will act like big pliers for bending the shape. People use it to straighten cheap swords. They are like F just a notch cut out.
I often get the scrap bars and chains that our local chainsaw dealer throws out as they just put new bars and chains on customers saws that go in for servicing. I won't have to buy bars for a long time as ive got heaps of them that still have heaps of life left in them. But I do buy new bars and chains for all my pro saws as we have some pretty hard wood down under, The redgum is especially hard and we need to keep the chains sharp just to cut it and they can go blunt pretty quickly if you don't pay attention. Great video well explained 👏 👍 Hello to all from Australia 🇦🇺
you actually did awesome job showing the gap with the light. after fixed bars , saw on big log sounded ways better as it wasnt struggling anymore. great tutorial😊
I've had those problems many times in the past. Used same fixes as you did. I discovered (the hard way) that this problem vanishes when the chain is kept tight, and you use a quality chain oil. Great video,...cheers from N.E. Ohio.
It won't be long before it cuts crooked again. One side of the guide will be thinner than the other and it will wear out more. When i was young i tried this too, and after a lot of time wasted i knew it is better to get a new bar.
Yes, absolutely. That needs to be pointed out, I forgot to do that. One can file down too far over time and the chain will no longer seat or fit the entire drive link in the valley. That will induce a curve cut syndrome.
Thanks, one chain after another. All logs look like cut on purpose at 45 degrees. Then try to split it if you can not even stand it upright on the chopping block. What bothers me is # views to #likes/subscribes. WE really have become such a creepy society.
One trick to see if the bar rails are true, is to stand the bar up on its edge on the kitchen table. It will only balance when true, and fall down to the low side when it still needs grinding. They usually last a good ten years, but once they start to cut crooked, the wear increases faster.
Thanks for the great info.. Ive heard of dressing the bar but never looked into it.. Ive got a few bars that can cut the moonholes in an outhouse.. Good stuff brother..👍👍
I've got a problem I can't figure out. Firewood processor with 15 inch bar. I flip the bar and dress it square, yet 1 chain just causes grief. Teeth are within 10 thou length ( checked with dial caliper) sharpened using a grinder wheel sharpening machine so both angles are "supposedly " the same, yet it will pull sometimes 1/2 inch to the side in a 10 inch log! What can it be?? I've reviewed comments, I'll check rakers and possible wear on the slider part of the teeth. Anything else? I'd chuck it but its some special carbide coated tooth expensive chain..
I could definitely hear the difference on the 24". Great video! I have the Stihl 261C and it came with the 18" 0.063/.325" bar and chain and last fall I upgraded to the 20" 0.63/3/8" bar and chain. big difference it cutting. Happy I upgraded the bar and chain. Thanks for the knowledge!
Its best to change the chain too after such a big bar dressing job. The link sides that touch the rails are most likely worn out unevenly too, so it might create problems/more uneven wear now that the bar si flush on both sides.
That's interesting. I'm going through the comments trying to identify what might be causing a problem with 1 chain. Always gives me grief and can't seem to figure out why. Either side wear or rakers
Thank you! I don't have experience fixing chain saws and am probably one of the people that hasn't flipped my bar around, or did it once but didn't fully understand why. Your explanation was clear and very helpful!
My Dad was a timber cutter from the 40's through the early 80's. He could make a chain and bar last a long time, Thank you for the how to. All my best.
Great video! I loved how you demonstrated the importance of keeping the bar and chain in good shape. The way you explained the gauge measurements was super helpful-it's fascinating how a little maintenance can make such a big difference in cutting performance. Has anyone else tried the roller tool you mentioned for bar repair? I'm curious if it really works as well as you described!
Good vid. Old boss 66 used to cut sideways all over the place really. Made sure chain was good raker gauge. Was the bar. Chain was just leanin everywhere. Was bar wasenent bent. But the grove was so worn chain sloppin around. Thanx good vid. New bar we were kickin arse.
Bars wear out.Too shallow, too wide, of a chain channel, can cut crooked. Sharp chains, proper hight depth guages, with with worn out( wedge shaped) drive links, can cut cut crooked.
The only bar I ever had that problem with was my 25 inch Stihl bar, I bought a new bar rather then go to all of that trouble. Some people flip the bar over to get more life from it.
lol if you run your saw to fast for too long or run it out of oil this will happen? A new bar is $40 a new chain is $35! If you put a new chain on an old bar you will wear out the chain the first time! Buy a new bar if you can cut your finger on your bar? Replace both chain and bar through the old ones away
I cheat. On my bars, where the groove was too wide, I use vise grips, to close the gap, one inch at a time, on both sides.I get quite a bit more life out of it. I have one of those " bar rail closers" , it really isnt too good.
Brilliant explanation. Used to do tree lopping and removal. My employees could never understand why the saws were jamming when they hadn't been flipping the bars and checking the chain guides. Spent so much time doing all that filing by hand. Didn't have the belt sander or hones available easily back then. Only thing I didn't see you do is lightly file the bar edge to remove any burrs from the honing. (perhaps your hone has an extra side hone to do that.)
At 2.10 you claim your chain isn't too loose. I beg to differ, on the basis, that. if your chain is sagging at all, on the underside of the bar, your chain is loose by default. There is always absolutely, enough slack, when pulling the chain up on the top of the bar to check, without the chain having any sag whatsoever on the bottom.
I always just went around to the other side of the log and finished the cut. Or sometimes we need a circular cut... I have this issue right after hitting a rock. 30 years ago it was just bad maintenance and very frustrating trying to fix it. Years have taught me. Thanks for the guidance and teaching.
The 10 pass non flipped bar Looks like my neighbors stihl bar lol was the guy named Matt? I told him to flip it every time he changed chain. No joke he said the words would be upside down
Another reason for a curved cut is sharpening the chain too much on one side. To fox the issue, sharpen more on the side that is in the direction of the curve. This issue can happen with hand sharpening the chain with a file.
Something about not straight and a sanfransisco cut 😳...😂😂😂😂. ...i have problems side cutting every 20 minutes , the chain comes off the bar. Also i say this, i been using a saw for 38 years . Im tired bro. Im about to check into a milwaukee 20v battery saw
Great video! I've had similar issues after nicking a few teeth on a rock. What I found that works (don't know why, but it does) is sharpening the chain, and then doing an extra pass on the teeth that are on the side that the saw's cut curves toward. Curve left, double sharpen left side cutters.
your the only one I've seen to address "the bar" I had to learn this on my own decades ago because I had saws that cut real good archs..... I did it with hand files and it cured the problem
Also many people don't know there are oil ports in bar groove which get clogged . Must be cleaned with small wire . They get oil from larger holes by bar bolt adjustment area .
Thanks for this. I mostly figured it out for myself (with just a file), but your clear illustration and instruction really make it plain. And I never heard of a bar dressing tool, much less to keep up on bar maintenance like you do a chain. Well done.
I WAS CUTTING UP SOME FIREWOOD AND I HAPPENED TO NOTICE IT WAS CUTTING UNEVEN. 😅I REMOVED THE BURRS ON EACH SIDE OF THE BAR PUT THE CHAIN BACK ON AND STILL HAD THE SAME RESULTS. I TOOK IT TO A BE REALIGNED .THE MAN SAID THE BAR WAS DONE WITH FOR. I BOUGHT A NEW ONE TOOK IT HOME AND INSTALLED IT ON THE UNIT. FIRED IT UP AND STARTED CUTTING ONCE AGAIN AND IT WAS CUTTING PERFECT. SO.DONT BE WHAT IS CALLED TRYING TO MAKE IT CUT TO QUICK.
Had this problem bad this morning. First use after winter. I remember struggling to cut before i out it away.
Switched chains and it now works perfectly so it isn't the bar - just my sharpening technique.
WoW.
I'm really impressed by your craftmanship !
Did not know this phenomenon of curved cuts causef by an uneven baredge...
Many thanks & season greetings 🎄 from 🇳🇱
Very good discussion/information. Thank you. Never noticed this as an issue with my smaller saws (under 18") but got A stihl MS660 with 32" bar a few years ago and am buggered if it will cut straight in big timber. Relpaced chain a few times without much effect. Will need to investigate the bar for sure now. Many thanks
Really helpful thanks, I have a old 28" bar that has never cut well and was relegated to the back of the workshop.
Confusing as my sharpening was consistent after watching this and some significant file work I have now corrected it.
Great video and guided info. Thanks. Been sawing wood and my own timber for many years. Never stop learning
There is something to be said for letting the tool do the work but you have to pay attention with chainsaw regardless. I cut slabs freehand and the bar can do a lot of the aligning work for you. Don't forget the perpendicular line on the side of the saw, that is pretty useful as well.
Very nice and informative to those that wish to undertake bar dressing. It's fun doing your own maintenance, Proper maintenance makes efficiency!
Happy holiday!
good info, i have an almost new Oregon bar and chain that is doing this, i made sure left and right cutting teeth were same length but still cuts off,,, i have watched many 'fancy' channels for an answer and never really got one. i will now go check what you just taught me. Thanks!!
Very helpful. I have the same problem. Now I know how to fix the issue. Try to dress the bar first and then, maybe get a new bar. Thanks!
If your bar is in bad shape, you won't make much worse!!! Try dressing with anything if you just need the saw to get a job done.
Thank you for helping me with this problem- I was totally mystified.
Before getting a decent belt sander with a good fence, I used my table saw with a large fine grit stone wheel that fit the arbor. Also, like you did, got to confirm the table was square to the stone. Be very gentle doing that however. Still required a dressing tool. Nice work and video.
A table saw would be a good flat surface. I bet that would spin a stone wheel fast as hell.
@@gorgeoutdoors It does and I did the same one time on my old Shop Smith set up as a table saw. I don't know how safe that is to spin a stone so fast though so now I just use the belt sander. take care!
One of the best videos I've seen for dressing a bad bar. Thank you!
Great video. Thanks
Thats a nice Vidja on bar maintenance. I the past I used to "Just Buy a New Bar", now I dress them, for extended life. I dont have the right tool as U do, but I touch them up with a bench grinder. Its a little crude, but with OK results.
The little hand dresser is available on amazon. It's a nice follow up after the bench grinder.
Very good explains a problem with one of the saws....never thought about the bar, just chain,
I definitely got something from this guy
Thank you for sharing 👍
Really great video! Thanks for sharing this! 🔥💯👍
Every time I see this happen, it's always going right to left as you cut through the log.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
very helpful videos..thank you so much
“It wanted to be the San Francisco chainsaw” 😂
Thank you for that video!! Very helpful 👍👍
Great video
great info, thanks!
Several things can cause a saw to cut crooked. An unevenly worn bar or even just a wire edge . A bent bar. The angles on the chain need to be the same side to side and tooth length the same. The rakers need to be filed evenly. Bars are cheap, so replace it if need be, and learn to file correctly. Also, make sure you're not torquing the saw while cutting.
Well said, that's good info. I only addressed the bar.
Shutup
I’ve had chains jacked up pretty bad on the left side cutters only which I had to file far back a lot more than the right and once I finally got the left side back to sharp and also the right side cutters sharp it still cuts straight down even on a 30” log. So the teeth don’t actually need to be evenly filed
@@pohanleu523 O.....kay.
@@brianquigley7336 Not trying to sound like i know more than you. just my personal experience.
Excellent video. Thanks
Great video!
Worn bar. Thank you for video good to know.
Good info, thanks
Well done video!
Thank you
Kayu nyq yang keras apa rantai nya sedikit kurang tajam ya??
Brought the sexy back lol
More often than not if it's cutting a curve it's an unevenly sharpened chain get a good electric chain sharpener or take it to someone who has. 9 times out of 10 it will cut straight again.
Electric grinders are trash, unless we are talking silvery or simington square grind.
@@jeepinass Got news for you buddy, my Foley Belsaw, Chain Mate has done an excellent job since I bought it as a Husky dealer in the late 80's. Never had any complaints. Yes if you're sawing in competition fileing is better done by an expert but for general use an electric grinder run correctly is great. Many want to grind way more than needed, often burning teeth so they can sell more chain but that's operator, not grinders flaw.
So if all the numbers match and or correct on the chain, it’s the bar? Pinched my bar, had this problem since.
If the chain checks out correctly, it's likely the bar. Try checking the bar with a straight edge, or a small square and flashlight. Check tension, mounts, bar studs, cover and components.
How about something on straightening a bar that gets bent a little? This is a very common problem.
Not sure I could solve a crease. Try the vise, then cleanup the groove with a small cutoff wheel. Sounds like a maybe.
Take 2 2x4 and cut a notch in the end this will act like big pliers for bending the shape. People use it to straighten cheap swords. They are like F just a notch cut out.
bar and chain oil?
Try cutting some good solid hardwood instead of that soft pine.
Your sprocket and clutch need to be replaced too. The gouges in the sprocket shouldn’t be more than 0.020” in depth.
Thank ya for the info
Gauge is spelled like that, NOT guage.
I often get the scrap bars and chains that our local chainsaw dealer throws out as they just put new bars and chains on customers saws that go in for servicing.
I won't have to buy bars for a long time as ive got heaps of them that still have heaps of life left in them.
But I do buy new bars and chains for all my pro saws as we have some pretty hard wood down under,
The redgum is especially hard and we need to keep the chains sharp just to cut it and they can go blunt pretty quickly if you don't pay attention.
Great video well explained 👏 👍
Hello to all from Australia 🇦🇺
you actually did awesome job showing the gap with the light. after fixed bars , saw on big log sounded ways better as it wasnt struggling anymore. great tutorial😊
I've had those problems many times in the past. Used same fixes as you did. I discovered (the hard way) that this problem vanishes when the chain is kept tight, and you use a quality chain oil. Great video,...cheers from N.E. Ohio.
It won't be long before it cuts crooked again. One side of the guide will be thinner than the other and it will wear out more. When i was young i tried this too, and after a lot of time wasted i knew it is better to get a new bar.
Great video. Short, sweet, to the point. No goody music or endless yacking. Helpful info, thanks.
After you correct the bar surface you need to check there is sufficient depth still available for the chain to seat properly.
Great video.
Yes, absolutely. That needs to be pointed out, I forgot to do that. One can file down too far over time and the chain will no longer seat or fit the entire drive link in the valley. That will induce a curve cut syndrome.
Thanks, one chain after another. All logs look like cut on purpose at 45 degrees. Then try to split it if you can not even stand it upright on the chopping block. What bothers me is # views to #likes/subscribes. WE really have become such a creepy society.
It's not easy being sleazy in today's society... Or maybe it is! Thanks for watchin'
Great vid, you could build a platform with locking casters for your sander so you don’t have to crouch. Thanks for sharing all the great info. 👍👍
Mine is cutting at ab45 degree angle😂😂 But I got it free. Just tried it when a huge branch blew down in the back yard.
Lol a San Francisco chainsaw definitely wouldnt run straight..
One trick to see if the bar rails are true, is to stand the bar up on its edge on the kitchen table. It will only balance when true, and fall down to the low side when it still needs grinding. They usually last a good ten years, but once they start to cut crooked, the wear increases faster.
Thanks for the great info.. Ive heard of dressing the bar but never looked into it.. Ive got a few bars that can cut the moonholes in an outhouse.. Good stuff brother..👍👍
The dogs are not long enough any more on these chainsaws. They just barely bite into the bark
Nice straight forward video explanation. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video.
Thanks kind sir.
Yeah great video
I've got a problem I can't figure out. Firewood processor with 15 inch bar. I flip the bar and dress it square, yet 1 chain just causes grief. Teeth are within 10 thou length ( checked with dial caliper) sharpened using a grinder wheel sharpening machine so both angles are "supposedly " the same, yet it will pull sometimes 1/2 inch to the side in a 10 inch log!
What can it be??
I've reviewed comments, I'll check rakers and possible wear on the slider part of the teeth.
Anything else? I'd chuck it but its some special carbide coated tooth expensive chain..
Never take for granted your square is square. Surprising how many are out.
I could definitely hear the difference on the 24". Great video! I have the Stihl 261C and it came with the 18" 0.063/.325" bar and chain and last fall I upgraded to the 20" 0.63/3/8" bar and chain. big difference it cutting. Happy I upgraded the bar and chain. Thanks for the knowledge!
Its best to change the chain too after such a big bar dressing job. The link sides that touch the rails are most likely worn out unevenly too, so it might create problems/more uneven wear now that the bar si flush on both sides.
That's interesting. I'm going through the comments trying to identify what might be causing a problem with 1 chain. Always gives me grief and can't seem to figure out why. Either side wear or rakers
Wow, I actually have this problem. Had no idea where to start. Thanks for the video.
You are a clear and concise speaker.
Good information and very well presented.
Thank you. I was looking for this video for long time, but it didn't exist.
Thank you! I don't have experience fixing chain saws and am probably one of the people that hasn't flipped my bar around, or did it once but didn't fully understand why. Your explanation was clear and very helpful!
My Dad was a timber cutter from the 40's through the early 80's. He could make a chain and bar last a long time, Thank you for the how to. All my best.
Great video! I loved how you demonstrated the importance of keeping the bar and chain in good shape. The way you explained the gauge measurements was super helpful-it's fascinating how a little maintenance can make such a big difference in cutting performance. Has anyone else tried the roller tool you mentioned for bar repair? I'm curious if it really works as well as you described!
The geese approve! I never knew why mine cut crooked. I assumed I didn't sharpen evenly.
I've found it to be one side of teeth is sharper than the other side making it cut faster making it cut side ways
Glad I found this. My 029 as similar issues. Tomorrow morning I’ll be doing a bar inspection and verify I have the correct chain. Thanks!
029 is strong
Good vid. Old boss 66 used to cut sideways all over the place really. Made sure chain was good raker gauge. Was the bar. Chain was just leanin everywhere. Was bar wasenent bent. But the grove was so worn chain sloppin around. Thanx good vid. New bar we were kickin arse.
Bars wear out.Too shallow, too wide, of a chain channel, can cut crooked. Sharp chains, proper hight depth guages, with with worn out( wedge shaped) drive links, can cut cut crooked.
The only bar I ever had that problem with was my 25 inch Stihl bar, I bought a new bar rather then go to all of that trouble.
Some people flip the bar over to get more life from it.
lol if you run your saw to fast for too long or run it out of oil this will happen? A new bar is $40 a new chain is $35! If you put a new chain on an old bar you will wear out the chain the first time! Buy a new bar if you can cut your finger on your bar? Replace both chain and bar through the old ones away
I cheat. On my bars, where the groove was too wide, I use vise grips, to close the gap, one inch at a time, on both sides.I get quite a bit more life out of it. I have one of those " bar rail closers" , it really isnt too good.
Brilliant explanation. Used to do tree lopping and removal. My employees could never understand why the saws were jamming when they hadn't been flipping the bars and checking the chain guides. Spent so much time doing all that filing by hand. Didn't have the belt sander or hones available easily back then. Only thing I didn't see you do is lightly file the bar edge to remove any burrs from the honing. (perhaps your hone has an extra side hone to do that.)
Best video I’ve seen on this! Helps me tremendously. Mine was cuttin crookeder than a dogs hind leg. Low tide at Harbor Freight! Lol
At 2.10 you claim your chain isn't too loose. I beg to differ, on the basis, that. if your chain is sagging at all, on the underside of the bar, your chain is loose by default.
There is always absolutely, enough slack, when pulling the chain up on the top of the bar to check, without the chain having any sag whatsoever on the bottom.
I always just went around to the other side of the log and finished the cut. Or sometimes we need a circular cut... I have this issue right after hitting a rock. 30 years ago it was just bad maintenance and very frustrating trying to fix it. Years have taught me. Thanks for the guidance and teaching.
The 10 pass non flipped bar Looks like my neighbors stihl bar lol was the guy named Matt?
I told him to flip it every time he changed chain. No joke he said the words would be upside down
Thanks for video, I've been focusing on length of teeth to no avail, I'm gonna attack the bar like you did, I'm sure thats the problem, thanks
The San Fransisco chainsaw haha, love it
from the factory my 3/8. 50guage echo bar wasn't flat. I had to dress it some. so yeah be aware even brand new bars can have issues
I was told if you put the chain on backwards and cut feom the opposite side, it corrects itself. #LifeHack!
I was told if you put the chain on backwards and cut from the opposite side, it corrects itself! #LifeHack
Another reason for a curved cut is sharpening the chain too much on one side. To fox the issue, sharpen more on the side that is in the direction of the curve. This issue can happen with hand sharpening the chain with a file.
Great explanation and demonstration. I’m going to check my bar and do some maintenance. Thanks for sharing. Greetings from Maine.
I would use gloves...
Thankyou for posting. After 45 years with a saw I learned something very valuable.
Great to hear!
Thank you for taking the time to make the video .very educational and helpful
Someone commented that the bar on my saw was upside down. So I had to explain about rotating the bar.
We use to flip the bar over and keep on cuttin.
It's cool your fixing but aren't the bars 30 dollors
Hebat mesin nya sangat kuat mengerjakan rantai nya.
Something about not straight and a sanfransisco cut 😳...😂😂😂😂. ...i have problems side cutting every 20 minutes , the chain comes off the bar. Also i say this, i been using a saw for 38 years . Im tired bro. Im about to check into a milwaukee 20v battery saw
Sanfransisco cut! Hahaha
Great video! I've had similar issues after nicking a few teeth on a rock. What I found that works (don't know why, but it does) is sharpening the chain, and then doing an extra pass on the teeth that are on the side that the saw's cut curves toward. Curve left, double sharpen left side cutters.
Finally, someone who knows something about bars and chains. +1000 thumbs up!!
your the only one I've seen to address "the bar" I had to learn this on my own decades ago
because I had saws that cut real good archs..... I did it with hand files and it cured the problem
Emphasis on the bar, and the bar only. Thanks for the comment.
Terrific practical perspective on bar repair.
How did I miss your channel until now?
Subscribed!
DOUG out
Thanks Doug. I'm new on here. Not very popular yet, still kind of a ...
thats exactly whats happening to mine put a new light bar on and its crap
Also many people don't know there are oil ports in bar groove which get clogged .
Must be cleaned with small wire .
They get oil from larger holes by bar bolt adjustment area .
Thank you I did not know this.
Is there a way to straighten a bar with a twist in it ?
I am pretty good at wrecking them lol