Click here for a new bar ➜ amzn.to/2CxfiVn Click here for a bar dresser ➜ amzn.to/2j6ceHp Check out these other informative videos: Correct Way To Sharpen A Chainsaw ➜ ruclips.net/video/-GIxowey6IQ/видео.html How To Use a Stihl 2 In 1 Chainsaw Chain Sharpener ➜ ruclips.net/video/marzGaMq6pM/видео.html How To Buy The Proper Chain For A Chainsaw ➜ ruclips.net/video/IMaGZghrKWg/видео.html Correct Way To Adjust The Chain Tension On Your Chainsaw ➜ ruclips.net/video/FxgQSPQeYYM/видео.html Make sure to check out the Saloon here too… Click here for my website ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ Click here for my Parts and Tools Store ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon Follow me on Facebook ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon Follow me on Instagram ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/ Follow me on Twitter ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon
After 45 years in the tree / saw maintainer biz, I have seen just about every mistake you can make with a chainsaw. Bar and chain maintenance are at the root of most. I think the most important is most of what you covered. My suggestion: after you finish cutting, remove the bar and chain, clean the bar, use a bar square on the down side ,not much.. one or two strokes,clean,grease nose sprocket and re install,leaving the chain loose. I get better bar life this way, rather than waiting until it’s grinder time. Love your show. Just remember, there are some people that should not pick up a chainsaw. Just for safety’s sake.
By far one of the best small engine channels out there. Steves videos have helped me countless times. I can't just can't say enough good things. Thanks for all of the effort you put into every video.
For guys like me, Steve’s doing the lord’s work on these chainsaw videos. Since my dad died 2 years ago, I’ve had no one to refer to for help. Steve is now my chainsaw pop!
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon This is exactly why I am also here. My dad always used to maintain and sharpen our chainsaw, but he died suddenly and didn't have time to pass on all the knowledge. Thanks for the tips, My firewood is very crooked. I think for me it is a combination of worn out bar + chain sharpened a little less on the left side.
@@georgeman27 sorry to hear about your Dad I had years to learn how to shoe horses from my Dad and only learnt how to trim now Dad's nearly 80 and I live about 6hrs away in a city although recently we had some time together due to bushfires it was great take care I hope your sort that saw
@@shaveclassy9986 Yeah, it was quite sudden, but i am fine now. It has been years. Thanks to Steve's tips on sharpening, my chainsaw purrs like a kitten. Turns out, and this is stupid, In ALL my years, I have never realized that metal files work only ONE way. So I was sharpening one side of the chain, while making the other side DULL...
My local small engine repair shop hates this channel because i don't need him anymore.Steve has a video for everything i need and he knows his stuff.Thanks Steve
Just wanted to throw a big thanks your way. You're a good man to share your knowledge with the world for free. I know you have helped countless people and for that we should all raise a beer to you, in respect. Looking forward to watching you for a long time to come.
Hey Steve, been watching your channel for years now I have a 661cm with a 42” Oregon bar. Yes, one step above the max size. I blew out the sprocket on the end of the bar. It even caught on fire and melted the paint off the tip. Had it in the Alaskan mill for sugar maple Sprocket was free and oiled. Brand new bar and had no issues logging the first few logs. The rest of the bar is totally fine Gauge and pitch were correct. Stihl chain on the Oregon bar. Skip tooth 3/8 .063”. Brand new chain. Brand new clutch and drive sprocket. Brand new bar second time using. My thoughts are not enough oil Getting to the tip, lower quality bar ba stihl, chain maybe too loose, maybe the sprocket got worn off to one side and the chain was riding the side, probably a combination off all of these. I will replace the bar sprocket and try again. There is a small possibility of a manufacturer defect on the sprocket but it’s welded inside the tip now and I can’t get a Pi look at it until later. Anyway just wondering if you had any additional thoughts or ideas.
Thank you Steve. I worked in a small engine/saw shop and know most of this stuff but these videos are my refresher course. I tend to forget things these days and this is like going back to school. I haven't had this problem myself in about 30 years but when I did it was bad! Worse, it was my lack of sharpening skills at that time. I have also had bad rails too. I think? I think it was from me running a tight chain? A file did the trick as you showed. These days when friends bring me their saws it's usually a carb problem. Sometimes a good cleaning will fix them or just a kit and clean.
Couldn't agree more with ZP Pierce. I also don't have reliable men in my day to day life. Steve has been priceless In helping me restore an old Stihl ms290. With his help plus some other RUclipsrs I've been able to completely restore a chainsaw that had been passed on from someone recently deceased. I plan on regifting the saw back to it's owner after a complete restoration. Couldn't do it without you Steve thanks for you help and easy approach in teaching.
Steve, I'm so glad I found your channel. I've learned more about chainsaw maintenance in a few videos of yours than I've ever found from others. Most recently, getting the right 2 in 1 sharpener for your chain (I got the wrong one) and why my saw drifts to be side when trying to cut straight. Thanks!
Thanks Steve. I'm rebuilding a Jonsered 630 for my Dad and the bar on that saw had short rails. I could see daylight between the new chain and bar rails. New Oregon bar on order. Thanks again.
I just got a new bar on my 15-year-old Stihl due to that wide gap and uneven rail situation. My cuts were starting to look like they were made with a circle cutter rather than a straight bar! Great information, Steve. I'm happy to have come across your channel.
Thanks so much for posting these videos, my dad never did proper maintenance on the old chainsaw (pioneer partner 400) or taught me much in the way of how to even use it. With your videos it's been a slow but steady process of first getting it to start, tensioned, sharpened, and now getting it to cut a bit better/straighter.
Thanks again Steve. You helped me diagnose the real reason my Tanaka ECV4501 was cutting crooked.....my chain bar rails were uneven. Having a new bar and the old one and standing them as you suggested (or trying to stand them!) on a flat surface quickly showed up the issue! Thanks again. Now lm going to attempt to dress the old bar and keep as a spare. Great channel! From an Irish subscriber!! 🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪
I have been in the small engine business for 25 years. The was excellent and comprehensive training on bars and chains. Box stores usually know little about bars and chains. Our local box stores often sold chains to customers that were a different pitch and gauge than their equipment required. I have straightened out those issues often. I would surmise that your video helped many people.
Good video. I cut wood in the high desert. The sand eats chain, bars and sprocks quick. I ended up getting the bar rail grinder from Bailey's and a bar rail closer from Madsen's. The grinder is very helpful! But, I often close the rail too much which I'm used to sligjtly re-openning back up. I like the cannon bars the best as they last (a little) longer in the sand then even Stihl and for sure longer then the Oregon and Husky bars. But one thing is for sure, I cut straight now.
Steve, thanks for posting this. I was cutting firewood this afternoon and the saw was only cutting well on an extreme angle. I took the bar off and set it on the table, could not get it to balance on the bottom side, top side balanced well. Flipped the bar and went back to the wood. Cuts like a dream. I will try to file the bad edge and see if I can save the bar. Thanks again man!
Just tuned two bars yesterday, from an 018 and a 290. I have a woodshop and a shop build edge sander. Works great for getting the rails both to the same height. Uses a 6" x 48" belt with a platen at 90 degrees to the belt.
Thanks you for this wonderful video. I had bought a new chain thinking I was sharpening my chain wrong (which I was for the record) and it still cut crooked. Never gave the bar a second thought. My bar groove was severely worn. New bar and I'm cutting straight agin. You're tha man. I ain't ashamed to admit it.
When dressing your bar, don't forget to also de-burr the edges. That same Oregon tool (Pferd also makes a good one) that works to level the rails is also good for deburring, you just turn it to put the cutting edge on the side of the bar, rather than on top of the rails. (A regular flat file works as well.) After leveling the rails and deburring, the corners of the rails are often razor sharp. I'll generally take my flat file or bar rail dresser and make a VERY light pass with it held at a 45˚ angle to just break that corner slightly. You hands will thank you for this step if you are ever handling a bar without gloves on.
I don't know if you're still reading comments on this video but i borrowed an old Stihl 029 from my father-in-law and all the problems you mentioned in this video the saw has or had really. I appreciate the tips and tricks
I love how Steve can crack a joke, humour it right up, with a straight face still. Beer drinking does this to you. [ask me]. I got a lot out of this video as well!. Steve would get on really great with Aussies.
Even if I sent all my repair/maintenance work to a shop, I would still watch Steve's videos because he cracks me up! My cat hates it when I watch these because I scare him when I laugh! Keep it up, Steve!
Sure enough! My bar would not stand up on my tablesaw table. Vice and flat file fixed it quick & easy. Cuts beautifully straight now. Thanks so much! Robert Anderson
Very good, informative video. You didn't touch on one cause of crooked cutting that I personally experienced. As the bar wears, the guide links can touch the bottom of the slot in the bar, which will raise the tie straps of the chain above the rails of the bar, allowing the chain to tilt right or left. When this happens, the bar is plain worn out. I also clean the bar slot each time I change or sharpen my chains. It's amazing how much junk gets jammed in that slot
Steve, I have used a wider gauge chain on a bar that the grove is too Wide. We did this in the logging Industry and it worked fine. We also replaced the tip that fit the chain.
Steve, you're my go to guy whenever I run in to problems with any of my gas tools. You've saved me a ton of cash and time. Love your vids! I discovered a variant on reason #2: the driver teeth on the chain wore down very quickly. The chain was the right gauge originally, but wear made it like like it was now too small. I suspect the reason was that too much downward pressure was being applied when cutting (and the chain was loose) prematurely wearing out the chain's driver teeth. Keep up the good work!!
I live in the land of logging and forests, Sweden. So, here having a chainsaw is like having a car. However, only your instructions clearly demonstrated carburator adjustment on my Stihl saw. Good job. Keep it up.
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon I'm wondering if you could possibly produce a video on the proces of cutting along the grain when handling chainsaws. What I mean is that I tried to adjust the angling on my chain to cut along the grain, but it doesn't feel right. Perhaps you could enlighten me?
Great Video! Thanks. Some guys start out on these DIY videos by explaining what a screwdriver is, where they were born, and how many children they have. I REALLY LIKE the way you get to the point. Now I'm gonna go put my greasy bar on the kitchen table and see what the wife thinks about you! HaHa! Thanks Steve!
My Oregon Bar is now cutting at an angle only after 5 cords of Blue Oak.. i filed the uneven rails back to spec and its cutting even again. Thanks for the great info. Cheers from California.
I just experienced this very thing. i bought new bars and now that I have time, Im going to recondition the old ones. Now I'll always have a spare set of bars when Im on a job.
I really liked your video. I have an Oregon CS-1500 chainsaw that cut crooked. It has a built in sharpener which didn't do me much good. A salesman told me it was because it wasn't sharpened right. I bought a replacement blade that came with a new sharpening stone . It works fine now. My other chainsaws have more standard chains and normal sharpening works fine on them. Many thanks!!
I encountered this very same problem today, chainsaw cutting at a angle. And I remembered I seen this particular video pop up in the "youtube recommendations". And lookey here, here I be. Thanks Steve! Keep up the good work/info.
Steve i do ALOT of cutting firewood i do it year round i have a husqvarna 440 and when i 1st started i had this problem many times and come to find out it was a combination of all these things. My chain wasnt sharpened correctly ( i was still learning), my chain was slightly loose ( alot of the problem) and the bar needed filed down so ive havent had it in a while but when it happens i defently know what to check know i can sharpen a chain free handed without a guide & im proud of it took alot of practice and cut fingers🤣 great video
Belt sander works awesome. Also dress the sides of the rails as they get a lip. If your saw tends to get stuck as you cut wood it probably has a lip on the sides of the rails.
Customer's Stihl 034 saw was cutting crooked to the point it would bind and start smoking the bar. He was a DIYer, and last time he worked on the clutch/drum, he installed the dished washer backwards allowing the drum assembly to walk in and out on the crankshaft end.
Thanks Steve, another fun-and-interesting show. Wait, my wife wants to talk to you about proper kitchen table use and child-birth.... greetings from Houston TX.
You'd be surprised how many guys don't have a cue about maintaining their saws.. I'm a certified cutter skidder operator with signing authority, so I trained guys I hired to harvest timber. I made sure each and everyone of them knew everything there was to know about saw maintenance, and Even experienced cutters had no idea how to maintain their bars and remove the burr, which is something that has to be done frequently, and checked everytime you flip the bar. Filing / sharpening is an important part of operating a saw, but bar maintenance is equally important.. I had them invest in tools they could take with them to the bush in a tool kit that would do everything they needed to do to keep cutting safely and efficiently.. That was some years ago now, but it still all applies. A Chainsaw is the deadliest power tool anyone can buy off the shelf. Chainsaw accidents happen by The Weekend warrior who buys a chainsaw with no common sense whatsoever are dangerous to everyone around. I've seen bad things happen. That said I've had my share of accidents to though. People don't realize it's an odds game. Each Time You Go To Fell Timber, Buck, and Block, Limb etc you run the risk of getting hurt. The More times you enter the bush the more the odds stack up. There is only one sure fire way to prevent accidents, and that's to be careful, know what you are doing, and know who's in the bush with you and there whereabouts at all times.. It's not the stuff on the ground that will kill you, it's the stuff hanging overhead.. aka "THE WIDOW MAKER" Thanks for sharing the video..
25 years ago I had the smallest Sthil chainsaw . I cut lots of firewood and after a year or 2 noticed the saw was cutting crooked . It got so bad the saw would bind and stop altogether. . I noticed the saw cut properly until the top of the bar was out of site in the log, then it would go crooked and bind to a stop. It turned out that the rails on the top of the bar were so stretched apart that it was wider than the cut. . At the time I had been pressing down on the saw to try to make it cut faster, and I figured that by pressing on the bar I caused the rails to widen. I could feel the sudden widening of the rails as I drew my thumb and fore finger up to the top of the bar. I had turned the bar upside down a few times when the chain came off ,or when I changed it. I loaned the saw out after getting another bar and the user just put gas ,and not a gas oil mixture in it, and destroyed the engine . I learned many things by trial and error with that little saw. I now have a Slhil 026 I bought about 20 years ago and learned much more in that time , but not as much by reading the owners manual as I have learned from your videos in the last 3 days when I subscribed to your site.. You are by far the best at everything from small details to be sure we understand ,to your way of speaking . Oh, and yes your humor , and sipping beer. Thanks for the great teaching .
You also learned not to loan out your saw. I just learned that lesson. He didn’t put bar oil in it . Fried the chain and the bar is black. He paid for a chain, but I had an extra bar so I didn’t sweat it. Lessons learned. I’m going over to his house to cut the rest of them down
ANSR Steve, there is another thing that might help the problem with the chain wiggling in the bar groove; its a bar rail tightening tool. It can close up the groove enough to tighten the chain movement. Love your channel. I watched the video today about the locked clutch drum on the Husqvarna chainsaw. The device to grease the clutch bearing is now on my list of tools I will be ordering. Thanks for the info.
Just subscribed. You just fixed my saw, and I watched one of your videos on a weed eater carb. You fixed it to.Thanks man! I am going to start watching more of your videos and spread the word for your channel.
I am so glad our found your channel. 👍. I have been using Stihl saws for 45 years but have learned several really good things from these videos. And you are too funny. 😆. Who knew some plastic bottles can be used for water, too. 🤣. And your comment about not really having a point of reference to the pain of childbirth being less than the pain of a sleeping relationship of steel in your eye had me laughing out loud. It has just been recently that my log cuts have not been square. I thought it was me and those darn aging muscles that was not holding the saw better. You have brightened my day in showing that it may be something to do with an old bar or wrong chain size. I'll check all the things you show here. I already feel five years younger! 😄. Thank you!
Thanks Steve, I have worked with chainsaws since 1972 but I can always learn something from you, Thanks again Budweiser. After a 6 pack my chainsaw sometimes cuts crooked, well i think it does !!!!
Just found your site, lots of info, ✅, went cutting wood yesterday, and my Husky started doing this . Went over my saw with your tips. I’m thinking it’s bar wear, chain moves from side to side pretty good?
When sharpening hand saws I used a homemade tool for leveling the teeth. Take a piece of 2x and cut a groove in it to form a tight fit on your file. Works just like the store bought.
Thanks for the info. I will check my guide rails. The only time it cuts in an arc is when the saw is in a horizontal axis. Like cutting a stump. It cuts fine when cutting on the vertical axis. I'm also going to check that side wobble you talked about with the chain (rocking chain side to side). I'm thinking the bar needs some tuning up. Maybe just replace the bar. Bar and saw all original. The kit and kabootle is around 25 years old. We've been through a lot. I enjoy all your videos. Stay safe, stay well. (Edit): UPDATE - so it was the inner part where the chain rides the bar. Ended up replacing the bar. Wow! What a difference. It's like a whole new saw. Thank you thank you 😊.
i love your videos Steve, you explain things in the simplest way. i've never seen an "axe file" before, is it somehow different than other files whereas it won't be destroyed by using it in a back and forth motion? i noticed it actually says AXE on it as well.
Great info for my saw I used to cut a neighbor limb that fell recently. I’ve got an electric Kobalt saw and know it’s not made for large diameter but it’s all I have…for now. My popular ‘Wild Thing’ dies after start and have to definitely clean carb & tune it. Thanks again, Mark from NC
Thanks for the tips! My bar is fairly new with minimal hours on it. It is worn uneven already. Premature wear can be an indicator that the bar is not getting enough oil as is my problem. I have an old MacCulloch Mac Pro 610 with oiler issues. Seems that wood chips end up plugging proper oil flow constantly.
I tried putting water in a similar bottle. The problem is that it never got drunk. Beer seemed to get consumed faster. In short, it’s a good container for water, but it’s a better vessel for drinking a couple beers. Especially if you only want to drink “one”.
Thanks Steve. I'm a bit of a novice with the chainsaw and other small engine garden maintenance equipment. Finding your channel has helped me enormously. You're a champion! Particularly liked the video on starting a flooded engine. Awesome. My own chainsaw is a Stihl MS311 which I love is only a few years old and has only light use, but I reckon I learned valuable information from this video which will come in handy soon enough. Thanks a heap from country Victoria (Australia)
good video steve. i'd like to ad the best repair is to avoid the problem in the first place. most wear is from lack of lube and or abrasive infiltration. a dull chain grinds dust not pull chips when that gets in the bar groove it plugs the oil supply. so proper chain sharpening tension and rail cleaning with good oil is a lot cheaper than replacement parts.
Hi, Steve. I am a licensed marine and small engine mechanic with 25 years experience; and I have to say Good video; however, I will add that there is one good way to fix a bar that has too loose of a groove. after you dress the rails, check if the next bigger chain gauge will fit in the worn groove. Ie: if bar is .050 see if .058 will fit the groove. I have found that if the chain's drivers will fit say 90% down into the groove, (with the tension set a little loose) you can run the saw up to speed , and add lots of extra chain oil from a pump type oiling can; and in a few minutes the chain will wear in enough to allow you to set the correct tension. Then the chain won't flop over and the saw will cut straight again. I have had a lot of success doing this. and if the bar is .058 you can go up to .063. Oregon chain does make .063 gauge 3/8 chisel tooth (the drivers are marked with a number 75) hope this helps, John.
Hi Steve, your doing a great job conveying insight and knowledge on small engine repair, I also see every now and then you like to yank viewers Chain's! LOL, Pun intended but you're still a good teacher of the small engine!
"Use the kitchen table; your wife won't mind." " Metal chips in the eye hurt worse than childbirth". You sure made my wife laugh, Steve. Yes, we watch videos like this together. I like to clean the debris out of out the bar groove with a small steel ruler, and lightly chamfer the dangerously sharp edges with a piece of emery cloth. Where in Canada are you, Steve? We're in Williams Lake, British Columbia, the heart of the logging and cattle industry. Love your super informative videos! Cheers, Paul and Sandy
You two are the best! I am on Vancouver Island now, but I used to live in Williams Lake when I was a kid!!! My dads best friend still lives there I believe. His name is Greg Poulson (Pawlson maybe) has a son named Brett and another son cant remember his name....
Out in the woods the steel guild plates will clean out the bar.Well that's if today's saws still have guide plates under the bar and clutch cover. The round file will also take off the burrs on the bar,it works much faster than a flat file.I just use the flat for rakers. I hate packing in more than I need to,wrench,files (flat and round),and a screwdriver for the carb and that's all my tools I pack in. Another lil tip,today's bars have small,almost pinhole size, holes for the bar oil.Drill them out with a 1/8" bit and it'll oil the bar and chain better and last longer.Also cranking up the oiler adjuster till you almost run out of oil when you have run out of fuel.
Thanks for the excellent information Steve !! I had no idea . You definatly provide useful information, and save many of us from learning the hard way...
Just want to say thank you for doing these videos I have fixed a lot of 2 cycle motors from you and only your videos thank you again and God bless you and your family..
Very good video, but there are some additional tips. Number one reason is poor alignment, standing without good posture or aligning your sight line with the saw, directly behind it and perpendicular to the workpiece. Number two reason is laziness. Letting the saw tilt part way through the cut, dogging in and pulling off center, holding on the side so it's twisting, but not countering that with opposite twist on the trigger hand and handlebar. Number three reason is not aligning your body/shoulders with a workpiece off the horizontal plane, on a hillside etc. All of these are exacerbated by a dull chain, or rakers that are too high. Fatigue will prompt all of the bad habits to come out. Reaching too far over a large log and getting into an uncomfortable position means you won't be able to see the cut or control it effectively. Also, cutting far below your feet with even a slightly dull chain makes it very liekly to start twisting at the bottom of the cut. As for worn out rails and groove, there is a tool for closing it up, basically two bearings on a handle that you can tighten on the rails and pull them down the bar. Clean off any burrs on the side first to prevent uneven closure, and don't expect too much from it, also, be careful not to close it too much, it sucks to have to widen it out again. A short piece of chain you can test with frequently helps a lot. Also, if you run a chain for a long time on a bar with really bad rails, the chain itself can get uneven wear on it and tilt over even after the bar is reconditioned. Another problem, which usually causes more binding than crooked cuts, is the burr getting too wide so it is wider than the kerf and sticks. OK, finally, sometimes the bar can actually get twisted or bent. Straighten it. I have stuck it in a cut in a log, swung it against a log, hammered it with an axe, whatever. If you're a couple hours out into the bush, just make it work. One way to temporarily fix it is to plunge cut constantly, cut an inch or so, pull the saw back, twist it to realign it and plunge cut along your old kerf. If you're not comfortable with plunge cutting, understandable, don't.
Thanks, Mack, you confirmed my experience with worn chain and uneven wear. Probably the one thing I could add to your advice is this: If your saw is not eager to cut, that you only serve to guide the saw while it does the work, you already have an issue. If you have to rock it, or apply undue pressure, it's time to stop and figure it out.
This video randomly appeared in my feed as I am a subscriber. I Ihad no idea that much Maintence went into the bar. Thanks again for another great one! Cheers!
Thanks Steve. Not being around professional lumberjacks i have never heard of the bar conditioning tool before. And I watched the video on carbs to fix and ole Echo chainsaw in the corner. Thanks
There is something you can do about the gap between the rails being to big. There is a tool that you use to roll down the bar to shrink them back together. Then hit it with a edge dresser and run it. Most people it isn’t worth it but when you run a saw all day every day that bar and chain money adds up big
I always learn something new watching you explain various topics with small engines. Recently I've acquired my fathers chainsaw. A Stihl MS250C that wasn't taken care of. I'm in the process of taking it apart and repairing/replacing the various parts as this is my first time trying to understand how it's pieced together. I'm learning about the chains and the bars that can be bought. What I'm having problems with that you haven't mentioned or I haven't come across yet is the blueing around the perimeter where the chain rides on the bar. Is that normal?
I was wondering as to why my cuts were going crooked. I thought it was my own poor cutting technique. I have been too embarrassed to ask anyone. Thank you Steve.
OMG...was just gonna ask u about this, and up popped your video, many thx Steve!!! I have 9 50-75' felled ash trees I have been hauling out of the woods as 1-2ft logs, heavy as heck. I use a "saw & bake" method (even w felled dead trees , in dense woods they are not yet splittable...cut them into 16-18" logs, and lay them on a hot driveway for 2-3 weeks to bake in sun, flip several times)w logs, to split them in my 5 ton Harbor Freight splitter...love that thing. Many of these logs were unliftable beasts, getting them in the splitter they would trip the breaker...so I used my trusty Stihl 028...cut them into halves, then quarters to save my back then bake them dry to split....well i would get 30-60% thru logs w 028, and noticed i would always...cut a curve to the right, was driving me nuts! Gonna try all your techniques to diagnose the 028. I flip bar every time i swap chains. I use aggressive cut chains and std cut chains. Thoroughly enjoy your videos....recommend Belgium Trappiste beer when your day is done! 🍻
Thanks a ton for point 4, man (rails). You just saved me a hell of a hassle trying to find a new bar with everything in lockdown due to the C19 virus. I owe you a shot of whiskey.
Again I appreciate your complete and thorough very thorough videos. Thanks so much coming on you tube and taking the time to make such GOOD INFORMATIVE VIDEOS. PLEASE DONT QUIT !!!!!!! Please don’t. I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS. LOVE EM!!!!!
Steve I had a saw that cut crooked. I dressed the bar just like you said, but it took no time for the cuts to get crooked again. Eventually I found the problem. The bar is 3 laminates sheets of steel that are spot welded. One of the outside laminates was thinner than the opposing side so it would wear faster... It was an oregon bar, probably a Friday 5 o'clock issue. I wonder how many they produced before quality control found the problem.
Steve, If you've ever been kicked in the knackers, you're probably qualified to comment on childbirth pain - Many women deliberately have more than 1 child - No man asks for another kick in the knackers - Great channel Steve - I'm an occasional chainsaw user & your channel has saved my chainsaws, my time & probably some body parts - Cheers brother
Another great video. I would add that a light filing at approx a 45 degree angle on the edges of the bar after squaring up the rails will take that burr of the edge but will not change the rail support on the chain. I've cut myself putting a chain on after squaring and removing that burr will eliminate that risk.
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Click here for a new bar ➜ amzn.to/2CxfiVn
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Check out these other informative videos:
Correct Way To Sharpen A Chainsaw ➜ ruclips.net/video/-GIxowey6IQ/видео.html
How To Use a Stihl 2 In 1 Chainsaw Chain Sharpener ➜ ruclips.net/video/marzGaMq6pM/видео.html
How To Buy The Proper Chain For A Chainsaw ➜ ruclips.net/video/IMaGZghrKWg/видео.html
Correct Way To Adjust The Chain Tension On Your Chainsaw ➜ ruclips.net/video/FxgQSPQeYYM/видео.html
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Canuck?
You are the best !!always explained in layman's language !!!!!
I could actually feel a disturbence in the force when he said more painful than child birth.
Once again Steve great info as always thanks😎
After 45 years in the tree / saw maintainer biz, I have seen just about every mistake you can make with a chainsaw. Bar and chain maintenance are at the root of most. I think the most important is most of what you covered. My suggestion: after you finish cutting, remove the bar and chain, clean the bar, use a bar square on the down side ,not much.. one or two strokes,clean,grease nose sprocket and re install,leaving the chain loose. I get better bar life this way, rather than waiting until it’s grinder time. Love your show. Just remember, there are some people that should not pick up a chainsaw. Just for safety’s sake.
@@jotttn yup, and they drive cars, raise kids, vote, and influence society with their economic choices
I think I'm one of them! Every time I do my back gives out!
The reference to child birth is hilarious! Cheers from Australia!
Right on Buddy! Thank You...
Nothing to it. I've had 4 sons and they came right out. Gals like to make us feel guilty when they can.
I lol’d too
Dude why is it every sharpening video I come across they're sharpening full chisel chain. Is semi chisel wimpish Or difficult to sharpen
If childbirth was difficult then men would have to do it.
By far one of the best small engine channels out there. Steves videos have helped me countless times. I can't just can't say enough good things. Thanks for all of the effort you put into every video.
Wow, thank you!
Dude i have learned more from you in just a few videos than i have. in 50 years on this marble and a hundred friends....thank you steve
That is awesome!
I flipped my bar and it made a huge difference, cuts great now. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
For guys like me, Steve’s doing the lord’s work on these chainsaw videos.
Since my dad died 2 years ago, I’ve had no one to refer to for help. Steve is now my chainsaw pop!
Right on Buddy...
ZP Pierce I like that comment
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon This is exactly why I am also here. My dad always used to maintain and sharpen our chainsaw, but he died suddenly and didn't have time to pass on all the knowledge.
Thanks for the tips, My firewood is very crooked. I think for me it is a combination of worn out bar + chain sharpened a little less on the left side.
@@georgeman27 sorry to hear about your Dad I had years to learn how to shoe horses from my Dad and only learnt how to trim now Dad's nearly 80 and I live about 6hrs away in a city although recently we had some time together due to bushfires it was great take care I hope your sort that saw
@@shaveclassy9986 Yeah, it was quite sudden, but i am fine now. It has been years. Thanks to Steve's tips on sharpening, my chainsaw purrs like a kitten. Turns out, and this is stupid, In ALL my years, I have never realized that metal files work only ONE way. So I was sharpening one side of the chain, while making the other side DULL...
My local small engine repair shop hates this channel because i don't need him anymore.Steve has a video for everything i need and he knows his stuff.Thanks Steve
You're Welcome...
Thanks!
You're Welcome...and Thank You...
Just wanted to throw a big thanks your way. You're a good man to share your knowledge with the world for free. I know you have helped countless people and for that we should all raise a beer to you, in respect. Looking forward to watching you for a long time to come.
Awesome comment! Thanks Bill....
Wish you were in Australia ,I would shout you a proper beer ,great videos , thanks , Ross
Agree. Nicley said.
Hey Steve, been watching your channel for years now
I have a 661cm with a 42” Oregon bar. Yes, one step above the max size. I blew out the sprocket on the end of the bar. It even caught on fire and melted the paint off the tip. Had it in the Alaskan mill for sugar maple
Sprocket was free and oiled. Brand new bar and had no issues logging the first few logs. The rest of the bar is totally fine
Gauge and pitch were correct. Stihl chain on the Oregon bar. Skip tooth 3/8 .063”. Brand new chain. Brand new clutch and drive sprocket. Brand new bar second time using.
My thoughts are not enough oil
Getting to the tip, lower quality bar ba stihl, chain maybe too loose, maybe the sprocket got worn off to one side and the chain was riding the side, probably a combination off all of these. I will replace the bar sprocket and try again. There is a small possibility of a manufacturer defect on the sprocket but it’s welded inside the tip now and I can’t get a Pi look at it until later.
Anyway just wondering if you had any additional thoughts or ideas.
Thank you Steve. I worked in a small engine/saw shop and know most of this stuff but these videos are my refresher course. I tend to forget things these days and this is like going back to school. I haven't had this problem myself in about 30 years but when I did it was bad! Worse, it was my lack of sharpening skills at that time. I have also had bad rails too. I think? I think it was from me running a tight chain? A file did the trick as you showed. These days when friends bring me their saws it's usually a carb problem. Sometimes a good cleaning will fix them or just a kit and clean.
Couldn't agree more with ZP Pierce. I also don't have reliable men in my day to day life. Steve has been priceless In helping me restore an old Stihl ms290. With his help plus some other RUclipsrs I've been able to completely restore a chainsaw that had been passed on from someone recently deceased. I plan on regifting the saw back to it's owner after a complete restoration. Couldn't do it without you Steve thanks for you help and easy approach in teaching.
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Steve, I'm so glad I found your channel. I've learned more about chainsaw maintenance in a few videos of yours than I've ever found from others. Most recently, getting the right 2 in 1 sharpener for your chain (I got the wrong one) and why my saw drifts to be side when trying to cut straight. Thanks!
Very welcome...
Thanks Steve. I'm rebuilding a Jonsered 630 for my Dad and the bar on that saw had short rails. I could see daylight between the new chain and bar rails. New Oregon bar on order. Thanks again.
Bars and Beer..Two subjects that are close to my heart....
Forgot... boobs.. oh yea!! Ditto.... lol
I just got a new bar on my 15-year-old Stihl due to that wide gap and uneven rail situation. My cuts were starting to look like they were made with a circle cutter rather than a straight bar!
Great information, Steve. I'm happy to have come across your channel.
Thank You...
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon I went out today and cut a cord of hedge to firebox-length. Every cut was straight and true.
Thanks so much for posting these videos, my dad never did proper maintenance on the old chainsaw (pioneer partner 400) or taught me much in the way of how to even use it. With your videos it's been a slow but steady process of first getting it to start, tensioned, sharpened, and now getting it to cut a bit better/straighter.
Thanks again Steve. You helped me diagnose the real reason my Tanaka ECV4501 was cutting crooked.....my chain bar rails were uneven. Having a new bar and the old one and standing them as you suggested (or trying to stand them!) on a flat surface quickly showed up the issue! Thanks again. Now lm going to attempt to dress the old bar and keep as a spare. Great channel!
From an Irish subscriber!! 🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪
You're Welcome...
Way more detail than I've seen in other videos on this subject. Thanks!
You're Welcome...
I have been in the small engine business for 25 years. The was excellent and comprehensive training on bars and chains. Box stores usually know little about bars and chains. Our local box stores often sold chains to customers that were a different pitch and gauge than their equipment required. I have straightened out those issues often. I would surmise that your video helped many people.
Thank You...
Good video. I cut wood in the high desert. The sand eats chain, bars and sprocks quick. I ended up getting the bar rail grinder from Bailey's and a bar rail closer from Madsen's. The grinder is very helpful! But, I often close the rail too much which I'm used to sligjtly re-openning back up.
I like the cannon bars the best as they last (a little) longer in the sand then even Stihl and for sure longer then the Oregon and Husky bars.
But one thing is for sure, I cut straight now.
Steve, thanks for posting this. I was cutting firewood this afternoon and the saw was only cutting well on an extreme angle. I took the bar off and set it on the table, could not get it to balance on the bottom side, top side balanced well. Flipped the bar and went back to the wood. Cuts like a dream. I will try to file the bad edge and see if I can save the bar. Thanks again man!
Awesome!
Just tuned two bars yesterday, from an 018 and a 290. I have a woodshop and a shop build edge sander. Works great for getting the rails both to the same height. Uses a 6" x 48" belt with a platen at 90 degrees to the belt.
Right on Ole! We used the same thing at a shop I used to work at. Works great....
Thanks you for this wonderful video. I had bought a new chain thinking I was sharpening my chain wrong (which I was for the record) and it still cut crooked. Never gave the bar a second thought. My bar groove was severely worn. New bar and I'm cutting straight agin. You're tha man. I ain't ashamed to admit it.
Right on Danny..
When dressing your bar, don't forget to also de-burr the edges. That same Oregon tool (Pferd also makes a good one) that works to level the rails is also good for deburring, you just turn it to put the cutting edge on the side of the bar, rather than on top of the rails. (A regular flat file works as well.) After leveling the rails and deburring, the corners of the rails are often razor sharp. I'll generally take my flat file or bar rail dresser and make a VERY light pass with it held at a 45˚ angle to just break that corner slightly. You hands will thank you for this step if you are ever handling a bar without gloves on.
I don't know if you're still reading comments on this video but i borrowed an old Stihl 029 from my father-in-law and all the problems you mentioned in this video the saw has or had really. I appreciate the tips and tricks
You're Welcome...
I'm gonna start cutting straight tomorrow.
I swear it.
Thanks for the info Steve.
I love how Steve can crack a joke, humour it right up, with a straight face still. Beer drinking does this to you. [ask me]. I got a lot out of this video as well!. Steve would get on really great with Aussies.
Thanks Mate....
Even if I sent all my repair/maintenance work to a shop, I would still watch Steve's videos because he cracks me up! My cat hates it when I watch these because I scare him when I laugh! Keep it up, Steve!
Sure enough! My bar would not stand up on my tablesaw table. Vice and flat file fixed it quick & easy. Cuts beautifully straight now. Thanks so much!
Robert Anderson
Right on Rob! You're Welcome...
I like to “refresh” on your videos sometimes!
Thanks Steve.
You're Welcome...
A big thanks to you, Steve, all the way from Lebanon.
Your instructions are very informative, easy to apply & comprehensive.
Keep it up!
You're Welcome...and Thank You...
Very good, informative video. You didn't touch on one cause of crooked cutting that I personally experienced. As the bar wears, the guide links can touch the bottom of the slot in the bar, which will raise the tie straps of the chain above the rails of the bar, allowing the chain to tilt right or left. When this happens, the bar is plain worn out. I also clean the bar slot each time I change or sharpen my chains. It's amazing how much junk gets jammed in that slot
Steve, I have used a wider gauge chain on a bar that the grove is too
Wide. We did this in the logging
Industry and it worked fine. We also replaced the tip that fit the chain.
Steve, you're my go to guy whenever I run in to problems with any of my gas tools. You've saved me a ton of cash and time. Love your vids! I discovered a variant on reason #2: the driver teeth on the chain wore down very quickly. The chain was the right gauge originally, but wear made it like like it was now too small. I suspect the reason was that too much downward pressure was being applied when cutting (and the chain was loose) prematurely wearing out the chain's driver teeth. Keep up the good work!!
keep the chain sharp and let the saw do the work!
I live in the land of logging and forests, Sweden. So, here having a chainsaw is like having a car. However, only your instructions clearly demonstrated carburator adjustment on my Stihl saw. Good job. Keep it up.
Cool, thanks
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon I'm wondering if you could possibly produce a video on the proces of cutting along the grain when handling chainsaws. What I mean is that I tried to adjust the angling on my chain to cut along the grain, but it doesn't feel right. Perhaps you could enlighten me?
Love your informative videos. You do a great job.
Thank You...
Didn't even know that was a question I should have asked. Thought I just got old and suck with the chain saw. As always, a spot-on video.
Great Video! Thanks. Some guys start out on these DIY videos by explaining what a screwdriver is, where they were born, and how many children they have. I REALLY LIKE the way you get to the point. Now I'm gonna go put my greasy bar on the kitchen table and see what the wife thinks about you! HaHa! Thanks Steve!
LOL! Good luck Billy....
My Oregon Bar is now cutting at an angle only after 5 cords of Blue Oak.. i filed the uneven rails back to spec and its cutting even again. Thanks for the great info. Cheers from California.
Good stuff!
I just experienced this very thing. i bought new bars and now that I have time, Im going to recondition the old ones. Now I'll always have a spare set of bars when Im on a job.
Great idea...
Steve's Small Engine
Saloon
I really liked your video. I have an Oregon CS-1500 chainsaw that cut crooked. It has a built in sharpener which didn't do me much good. A salesman told me it was because it wasn't sharpened right. I bought a replacement blade that came with a new sharpening stone . It works fine now. My other chainsaws have more standard chains and normal sharpening works fine on them. Many thanks!!
Any problems I have with a saw I only have to find one of your videos then it's sorted! Thanks for sharing your experience, I just had to subscribe 👍🏻
Thank You...
I encountered this very same problem today, chainsaw cutting at a angle. And I remembered I seen this particular video pop up in the "youtube recommendations". And lookey here, here I be. Thanks Steve! Keep up the good work/info.
Glad it helped
Man, you have the gift for putting out great info!
Thank You...
Steve i do ALOT of cutting firewood i do it year round i have a husqvarna 440 and when i 1st started i had this problem many times and come to find out it was a combination of all these things. My chain wasnt sharpened correctly ( i was still learning), my chain was slightly loose ( alot of the problem) and the bar needed filed down so ive havent had it in a while but when it happens i defently know what to check know i can sharpen a chain free handed without a guide & im proud of it took alot of practice and cut fingers🤣 great video
Belt sander works awesome. Also dress the sides of the rails as they get a lip. If your saw tends to get stuck as you cut wood it probably has a lip on the sides of the rails.
Great tip, thanks Steve...
Steven Hatfield, just make sure to get all the grit out with air compressor or good cleaning brush. The grit will wear the parts down extra fast.
Clean it every time you sharpen! Remove all the metal shavings!
Steve even though this video is 3 years old, how awesome it still applies today. Thanks 🙏
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Good video. information seems to make sense, all but the part about drinking Budweiser.
Customer's Stihl 034 saw was cutting crooked to the point it would bind and start smoking the bar. He was a DIYer, and last time he worked on the clutch/drum, he installed the dished washer backwards allowing the drum assembly to walk in and out on the crankshaft end.
Thanks Steve, another fun-and-interesting show. Wait, my wife wants to talk to you about proper kitchen table use and child-birth.... greetings from Houston TX.
press2701 Lol!
press2701....what part of Houston are you in? I'm in the northwest off 290.
Y'all have a merry Christmas!
Woodlands...
Tell your wife to talk to my wife. She approved it before I uploaded! Passin the buck LOL....
Hello there Steve
You'd be surprised how many guys don't have a cue about maintaining their saws..
I'm a certified cutter skidder operator with signing authority, so I trained guys I hired to harvest timber. I made sure each and everyone of them knew everything there was to know about saw maintenance, and Even experienced cutters had no idea how to maintain their bars and remove the burr, which is something that has to be done frequently, and checked everytime you flip the bar.
Filing / sharpening is an important part of operating a saw, but bar maintenance is equally important..
I had them invest in tools they could take with them to the bush in a tool kit that would do everything they needed to do to keep cutting safely and efficiently..
That was some years ago now, but it still all applies.
A Chainsaw is the deadliest power tool anyone can buy off the shelf.
Chainsaw accidents happen by The Weekend warrior who buys a chainsaw with no common sense whatsoever are dangerous to everyone around. I've seen bad things happen.
That said I've had my share of accidents to though.
People don't realize it's an odds game. Each Time You Go To Fell Timber, Buck, and Block, Limb etc you run the risk of getting hurt. The More times you enter the bush the more the odds stack up.
There is only one sure fire way to prevent accidents, and that's to be careful, know what you are doing, and know who's in the bush with you and there whereabouts at all times..
It's not the stuff on the ground that will kill you, it's the stuff hanging overhead.. aka "THE WIDOW MAKER"
Thanks for sharing the video..
25 years ago I had the smallest Sthil chainsaw . I cut lots of firewood and after a year or 2 noticed the saw was cutting crooked . It got so bad the saw would bind and stop altogether. .
I noticed the saw cut properly until the top of the bar was out of site in the log, then it would go crooked and bind to a stop.
It turned out that the rails on the top of the bar were so stretched apart that it was wider than the cut. .
At the time I had been pressing down on the saw to try to make it cut faster, and I figured that by pressing on the bar I caused the rails to widen.
I could feel the sudden widening of the rails as I drew my thumb and fore finger up to the top of the bar.
I had turned the bar upside down a few times when the chain came off ,or when I changed it.
I loaned the saw out after getting another bar and the user just put gas ,and not a gas oil mixture in it, and destroyed the engine .
I learned many things by trial and error with that little saw.
I now have a Slhil 026 I bought about 20 years ago and learned much more in that time , but not as much by reading the owners manual as I have learned from your videos in the last 3 days when I subscribed to your site..
You are by far the best at everything from small details to be sure we understand ,to your way of speaking . Oh, and yes your humor , and sipping beer.
Thanks for the great teaching .
You also learned not to loan out your saw.
I just learned that lesson. He didn’t put bar oil in it .
Fried the chain and the bar is black.
He paid for a chain, but I had an extra bar so I didn’t sweat it.
Lessons learned. I’m going over to his house to cut the rest of them down
@@jasonkeuma1986 Thought you were going to say, you're going over to his house to borrow his riding lawn mower.
ANSR
Steve, there is another thing that might help the problem with the chain wiggling in the bar groove; its a bar rail tightening tool. It can close up the groove enough to tighten the chain movement. Love your channel. I watched the video today about the locked clutch drum on the Husqvarna chainsaw. The device to grease the clutch bearing
is now on my list of tools I will be ordering. Thanks for the info.
Just subscribed. You just fixed my saw, and I watched one of your videos on a weed eater carb. You fixed it to.Thanks man! I am going to start watching more of your videos and spread the word for your channel.
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
I am so glad our found your channel. 👍. I have been using Stihl saws for 45 years but have learned several really good things from these videos. And you are too funny. 😆. Who knew some plastic bottles can be used for water, too. 🤣. And your comment about not really having a point of reference to the pain of childbirth being less than the pain of a sleeping relationship of steel in your eye had me laughing out loud.
It has just been recently that my log cuts have not been square. I thought it was me and those darn aging muscles that was not holding the saw better. You have brightened my day in showing that it may be something to do with an old bar or wrong chain size. I'll check all the things you show here. I already feel five years younger! 😄. Thank you!
Right on Karen! Thank You...
Thanks Steve, I have worked with chainsaws since 1972 but I can always learn something from you, Thanks again Budweiser. After a 6 pack my chainsaw sometimes cuts crooked, well i think it does !!!!
LMAO, Right on Buddy...
If that happens after only a six pack you are still on your learners permit. Not for your chain saw skills, your drinking skills😂
Just found your site, lots of info, ✅, went cutting wood yesterday, and my Husky started doing this . Went over my saw with your tips. I’m thinking it’s bar wear, chain moves from side to side pretty good?
When sharpening hand saws I used a homemade tool for leveling the teeth. Take a piece of 2x and cut a groove in it to form a tight fit on your file. Works just like the store bought.
Make a video
Saved the day again, my man! Nothing is worse than your chainsaw going sideways and you can't figure out why. Mine was simply the chain. Thanks man!
You're Welcome...
Hi Steve gary from Ontario ur videos are vary informative keep up the great work
Thank you...
Another awesome video! Thanks, as always. I'm a DIYer,60+ live in Alaska. Love the information. So helpful.
Awesome! Thank you!
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon t$ft$t/r===r
=r==r==r=
New subscriber. Carb adjustment videos brought me. Liking the videos, man.
Right on...
Thanks for the info. I will check my guide rails. The only time it cuts in an arc is when the saw is in a horizontal axis. Like cutting a stump. It cuts fine when cutting on the vertical axis. I'm also going to check that side wobble you talked about with the chain (rocking chain side to side). I'm thinking the bar needs some tuning up. Maybe just replace the bar. Bar and saw all original. The kit and kabootle is around 25 years old. We've been through a lot. I enjoy all your videos. Stay safe, stay well.
(Edit): UPDATE - so it was the inner part where the chain rides the bar. Ended up replacing the bar. Wow! What a difference. It's like a whole new saw. Thank you thank you 😊.
i love your videos Steve, you explain things in the simplest way. i've never seen an "axe file" before, is it somehow different than other files whereas it won't be destroyed by using it in a back and forth motion? i noticed it actually says AXE on it as well.
I wondered too
Great info for my saw I used to cut a neighbor limb that fell recently. I’ve got an electric Kobalt saw and know it’s not made for large diameter but it’s all I have…for now.
My popular ‘Wild Thing’ dies after start and have to definitely clean carb & tune it.
Thanks again,
Mark from NC
How do you know what gauge chain you have, is it marked in some way?
Thanks for the tips! My bar is fairly new with minimal hours on it. It is worn uneven already. Premature wear can be an indicator that the bar is not getting enough oil as is my problem. I have an old MacCulloch Mac Pro 610 with oiler issues. Seems that wood chips end up plugging proper oil flow constantly.
"He actually said that you can hold water in them too. I'm not so sure about that." LOL!
Shouldn't drink water. Water rusts pipes and fish poop in it.
I tried putting water in a similar bottle. The problem is that it never got drunk. Beer seemed to get consumed faster. In short, it’s a good container for water, but it’s a better vessel for drinking a couple beers. Especially if you only want to drink “one”.
Thanks Steve. I'm a bit of a novice with the chainsaw and other small engine garden maintenance equipment. Finding your channel has helped me enormously. You're a champion! Particularly liked the video on starting a flooded engine. Awesome. My own chainsaw is a Stihl MS311 which I love is only a few years old and has only light use, but I reckon I learned valuable information from this video which will come in handy soon enough. Thanks a heap from country Victoria (Australia)
good video steve. i'd like to ad the best repair is to avoid the problem in the first place. most wear is from lack of lube and or abrasive infiltration. a dull chain grinds dust not pull chips when that gets in the bar groove it plugs the oil supply. so proper chain sharpening tension and rail cleaning with good oil is a lot cheaper than replacement parts.
Great comment Rick, thank you...
Right you are
Hi, Steve. I am a licensed marine and small engine mechanic with 25 years experience; and I have to say Good video; however, I will add that there is one good way to fix a bar that has too loose of a groove. after you dress the rails, check if the next bigger chain gauge will fit in the worn groove. Ie: if bar is .050 see if .058 will fit the groove. I have found that if the chain's drivers will fit say 90% down into the groove, (with the tension set a little loose) you can run the saw up to speed , and add lots of extra chain oil from a pump type oiling can; and in a few minutes the chain will wear in enough to allow you to set the correct tension. Then the chain won't flop over and the saw will cut straight again. I have had a lot of success doing this. and if the bar is .058 you can go up to .063. Oregon chain does make .063 gauge 3/8 chisel tooth (the drivers are marked with a number 75) hope this helps, John.
Sometimes you just need to break down and buy a new bar.
Hey thanks for the video. Could you do one on general chainsaw maintenance. Thanks
Straight up professional... with a spice of awesome humor great video
Thank You...
Hi Steve,
your doing a great job conveying insight and knowledge on small engine repair,
I also see every now and then you like to yank viewers Chain's!
LOL, Pun intended but you're still a good teacher of the small engine!
Thank You...
How to fix the lock in a swisill window
How to fix the lock in a swiziil window
Great tip balancing the bar on a flat surface. Never would have thought of that. Flipped my bar today and cut straight!! Thanks for the tips.
You're Welcome...
"Use the kitchen table; your wife won't mind." " Metal chips in the eye hurt worse than childbirth". You sure made my wife laugh, Steve. Yes, we watch videos like this together.
I like to clean the debris out of out the bar groove with a small steel ruler, and lightly chamfer the dangerously sharp edges with a piece of emery cloth.
Where in Canada are you, Steve? We're in Williams Lake, British Columbia, the heart of the logging and cattle industry. Love your super informative videos! Cheers, Paul and Sandy
You two are the best! I am on Vancouver Island now, but I used to live in Williams Lake when I was a kid!!! My dads best friend still lives there I believe. His name is Greg Poulson (Pawlson maybe) has a son named Brett and another son cant remember his name....
Out in the woods the steel guild plates will clean out the bar.Well that's if today's saws still have guide plates under the bar and clutch cover.
The round file will also take off the burrs on the bar,it works much faster than a flat file.I just use the flat for rakers.
I hate packing in more than I need to,wrench,files (flat and round),and a screwdriver for the carb and that's all my tools I pack in.
Another lil tip,today's bars have small,almost pinhole size, holes for the bar oil.Drill them out with a 1/8" bit and it'll oil the bar and chain better and last longer.Also cranking up the oiler adjuster till you almost run out of oil when you have run out of fuel.
Thanks for the excellent information Steve !! I had no idea . You definatly provide useful information, and save many of us from learning the hard way...
My pleasure!
This really helped me out! Thanks for the video 👌
You're Welcome...
Just want to say thank you for doing these videos I have fixed a lot of 2 cycle motors from you and only your videos thank you again and God bless you and your family..
Great to hear!
Very good video, but there are some additional tips.
Number one reason is poor alignment, standing without good posture or aligning your sight line with the saw, directly behind it and perpendicular to the workpiece.
Number two reason is laziness. Letting the saw tilt part way through the cut, dogging in and pulling off center, holding on the side so it's twisting, but not countering that with opposite twist on the trigger hand and handlebar.
Number three reason is not aligning your body/shoulders with a workpiece off the horizontal plane, on a hillside etc.
All of these are exacerbated by a dull chain, or rakers that are too high. Fatigue will prompt all of the bad habits to come out. Reaching too far over a large log and getting into an uncomfortable position means you won't be able to see the cut or control it effectively. Also, cutting far below your feet with even a slightly dull chain makes it very liekly to start twisting at the bottom of the cut.
As for worn out rails and groove, there is a tool for closing it up, basically two bearings on a handle that you can tighten on the rails and pull them down the bar.
Clean off any burrs on the side first to prevent uneven closure, and don't expect too much from it, also, be careful not to close it too much, it sucks to have to widen it out again.
A short piece of chain you can test with frequently helps a lot.
Also, if you run a chain for a long time on a bar with really bad rails, the chain itself can get uneven wear on it and tilt over even after the bar is reconditioned.
Another problem, which usually causes more binding than crooked cuts, is the burr getting too wide so it is wider than the kerf and sticks.
OK, finally, sometimes the bar can actually get twisted or bent. Straighten it. I have stuck it in a cut in a log, swung it against a log, hammered it with an axe, whatever.
If you're a couple hours out into the bush, just make it work.
One way to temporarily fix it is to plunge cut constantly, cut an inch or so, pull the saw back, twist it to realign it and plunge cut along your old kerf.
If you're not comfortable with plunge cutting, understandable, don't.
Man do you always talk so much?
Thanks, Mack, you confirmed my experience with worn chain and uneven wear. Probably the one thing I could add to your advice is this: If your saw is not eager to cut, that you only serve to guide the saw while it does the work, you already have an issue. If you have to rock it, or apply undue pressure, it's time to stop and figure it out.
This video randomly appeared in my feed as I am a subscriber. I Ihad no idea that much Maintence went into the bar. Thanks again for another great one! Cheers!
Glad I could help!
Thanks Steve. Sydney Australia
You're Welcome Mate...
Thanks Steve. Not being around professional lumberjacks i have never heard of the bar conditioning tool before.
And I watched the video on carbs to fix and ole Echo chainsaw in the corner.
Thanks
You're Welcome...
awesome tips man, really helped me out. im spreading the word of a guy named steve and his small engine saloon!!
Awesome, thanks man.....
This is a fantastic informative no nonsense video, and exactly what i needed with my MS170. Thanks Steve and Co.
Our pleasure!
There is something you can do about the gap between the rails being to big. There is a tool that you use to roll down the bar to shrink them back together. Then hit it with a edge dresser and run it. Most people it isn’t worth it but when you run a saw all day every day that bar and chain money adds up big
Or next size up chain.
I always learn something new watching you explain various topics with small engines. Recently I've acquired my fathers chainsaw. A Stihl MS250C that wasn't taken care of. I'm in the process of taking it apart and repairing/replacing the various parts as this is my first time trying to understand how it's pieced together. I'm learning about the chains and the bars that can be bought. What I'm having problems with that you haven't mentioned or I haven't come across yet is the blueing around the perimeter where the chain rides on the bar. Is that normal?
Not oiling enough, the bar is getting way too hot.
I was wondering as to why my cuts were going crooked. I thought it was my own poor cutting technique. I have been too embarrassed to ask anyone. Thank you Steve.
You are so welcome!
Is there a way to tell if saw cuts LEFT or RIGHT what the problem is on bar or in sharpening chain? Thanks for another awesome video. 👍
That helps a ton! Great info.
Thank You...
OMG...was just gonna ask u about this, and up popped your video, many thx Steve!!! I have 9 50-75' felled ash trees I have been hauling out of the woods as 1-2ft logs, heavy as heck. I use a "saw & bake" method (even w felled dead trees , in dense woods they are not yet splittable...cut them into 16-18" logs, and lay them on a hot driveway for 2-3 weeks to bake in sun, flip several times)w logs, to split them in my 5 ton Harbor Freight splitter...love that thing. Many of these logs were unliftable beasts, getting them in the splitter they would trip the breaker...so I used my trusty Stihl 028...cut them into halves, then quarters to save my back then bake them dry to split....well i would get 30-60% thru logs w 028, and noticed i would always...cut a curve to the right, was driving me nuts! Gonna try all your techniques to diagnose the 028. I flip bar every time i swap chains. I use aggressive cut chains and std cut chains. Thoroughly enjoy your videos....recommend Belgium Trappiste beer when your day is done! 🍻
Thanks a ton for point 4, man (rails). You just saved me a hell of a hassle trying to find a new bar with everything in lockdown due to the C19 virus. I owe you a shot of whiskey.
Right on Pat...
I’ll let i
Great video, I am starting on building a small round bailer from scratch,
any suggestions ?
Again I appreciate your complete and thorough very thorough videos. Thanks so much coming on you tube and taking the time to make such GOOD INFORMATIVE VIDEOS. PLEASE DONT QUIT !!!!!!! Please don’t. I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS. LOVE EM!!!!!
Thank You...
Steve I had a saw that cut crooked. I dressed the bar just like you said, but it took no time for the cuts to get crooked again. Eventually I found the problem. The bar is 3 laminates sheets of steel that are spot welded. One of the outside laminates was thinner than the opposing side so it would wear faster... It was an oregon bar, probably a Friday 5 o'clock issue. I wonder how many they produced before quality control found the problem.
Great video! I did not know/ever think about these issues but it makes complete sense.
Thank You...
The material you are broadcasting is very useful and entertaining. Little tips and tricks are very helpful.
Steve, If you've ever been kicked in the knackers, you're probably qualified to comment on childbirth pain - Many women deliberately have more than 1 child - No man asks for another kick in the knackers - Great channel Steve - I'm an occasional chainsaw user & your channel has saved my chainsaws, my time & probably some body parts - Cheers brother
LOL, great point Jack...
I’ve been watching you for some time now for good reason...I always learn something that is very helpful. Keep up the good work!👍👌💪👏
Awesome! Thank you!
Another great video. I would add that a light filing at approx a 45 degree angle on the edges of the bar after squaring up the rails will take that burr of the edge but will not change the rail support on the chain. I've cut myself putting a chain on after squaring and removing that burr will eliminate that risk.
Excellent tip! Thank You...