Great video sir. I have intermittent code 11. My heater is much smaller than one you show. I will have to remove some aluminum covers to get to flame rods. Gonna try cleaning those first
Hi ! wondering if you help. My tankless water hear is not producing hot water to shower /faucet intermittently. I have to close hot water valve that is going from water heater to my HVAC to get water back hot in shower/faucet. I do see flame in the tank but as soon as I close the valve going to HVAC flame is higher and water to shower is hot .model is CRTGH-95dvln-2
Hello, Thanks for making the video. It will be great if each error code solution was time tagged to chapters i.e error code 11, 0.5minute-15minutes, that way you can choose the error code you’re having with ease and not confuse the solutions.
"What if my contractor doesn't have a multi-meter?" LMAO. I would ask Angi to remove them from her list! Awesome video Sir. I can't even get a contractor that doesn't have a multi-meter. So I'm on my own with this one. And we won't get into my experience with the phone Agents. Thanks again. Infinitely crucial info I was needing. I have the newer unit, but they are similar enough that I'm able to work through the board changes. I'd be dead "in the water" (no pun intended) without this vid.
@@macdaddymac6785 that’s the problem we have all over, the guy that’s really good at roughing in a house or doing drain work or maybe running gas line goes to diagnose water heater and is basically at the mercy of Tech Support. It’s not a good system. Take for instance if you have a medical problem, you go to a doctor that specializes in whatever that is maybe for joints maybe for something with the circulatory system but a plumber you just get a guy that’s licensed and maybe he can do what you need and maybe he can’t but the problem is they fake it a lot of times. fake it till you make it they say
I am constantly getting error code 12. It seems like anytime we try to control the temperature it gives me the error code. Or if we’re using a low volume of water. When we shower it’s got to be the hottest temperature or it gives error code 12 it seems
One of the gaskets completely crumbled and so OHL was damaged. What would cause it to crumble? We're being told nothing can be done, but the gasket should not have crumbled! We've only had this unit for 2 years!!
I have bought 3 Rheem tankless heaters so far. First was for my house when we had propane. 2nd was to replace the LP when we drilled a NG gas well. The third was in anticipation of building a house for my daughter. An LP unit. Installation went without any problems, and according to directions and code. (I thought) A couple days ago my daughter called and had no hot water. It would come on, briefly and shut off. On as, light on remote comes on humms a bit and shuts off. Inside 01 flashing. I had her turn on hot water, and heard only a humm, no start. I suspected the fan motor as it's the first to come on. I called the 800 # in the manual and reached a service agent lady who took all our info. She asked where the unit was installed, -in a basement, under a factory built, modular home. Not mobile, modular. She told me they would not cover it under warranty. Ok. How about tell me whats wrong. NOPE. She said it was not designed for mobile home applications. Its in a conventionally built basement under a normally looking home. NOT mobile. It was like talking to a rubber wall. Anything I said she came back with the same answer. I told her Rheem just lost a future customer. I don't give a sh.. where it's installed, she could at least help with troubleshooting. I looked up the HUD document code she quoted, and I could not fine anything that related to a different requirement for mobile home or conventional home installations. Or how they should be built. We tried about 6 different plumbers, 3 didn't work on them 2 don't like to, "there too hard", and 1 said it would be about a week. $275 just to come out. +++ So I'm on ytube checking all different things it might be. Next searching for parts suppliers. FU.. Rheem.
Do you know what causes the cover of the unit to deflect (making a popping sound) when the unit is first turned on? I have asked rheem tech support and no one has a clear answer....any ideas? thanks
I'm having the same thing...Rheem telling me it's a venting/air imbalance issue....but getting different techs saying different fixes for the venting....really struggling with frustration......I also watched video online with this popping being from delayed ignition issues sometimes caused by gunk/dead roach within.... I installed this August 23. Popping started a few months after.
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
This was very helpful. I unfortunately have once again been getting a code 12 once a day for the last 3 days. Water Heater was installed in in august last year. I spent 3 days on the phone with Rheem support trying to stop code 12. We determined everything was ok installation wise. The manifold set point chart on the heater was not on the unit. In aug, I basically increased the manifold set points until the code 12 stopped triggering every time the unit fired. At what point should I use the unit warranty now that this is starting to occur? I am going to check dynamic and static gas pressures today with my manometer again. It was fine in august.
How about E 3 code ? I had this code for 5 years old Eccotemp. Hot water was always 120 F. Vent is clean, water pressure, gas pressure - Ok. I did Flushed water heater by cleaning vinegar. Still code E 3 On. Contacted costumer support - no help...
Randomly tripping code 12...once a month maybe. I'm at altitude...6500 feet. I have the altitude dip switch set right. My venting is 10 feet with one wide sweep 90 degree. As a experiment...I set dip 2 switch 2 on...supposed to be for extra long venting...which I shouldn't need. I want to see what happens.
Thanks for the great video. I’m getting a error 12 but it is intermittent maybe once a month but when it does happen it seems to repeat for a day or so. Any idea what this could be?
Venting or gas issues. Possible due to install error or environmental. Venting needs to be inspected, proper setting for vent and elevations checks. Gas pressure both static and dynamic. If you have other things on the gas system and the system isn’t sized properly you will have issues. Check burner clean as needed.
@@rickpowell1402 Thanks for the reply. I did have it professionally installed. I double checked everything. Used 2” pipe but only 11 ft with 3 elbows so no need to change dip switches. Over sized main gas line 2”down to 3/4” at water heater. There is a 2’ flex gas pipe but looks like that meets requirements. What pressure should I be looking for on the gas line? It’s just 2 years old.
@@chrisnelson3470 Look on your rating plate by model and serial number, the gas specs will be there. you'll need to insure the pressures do not drop to low when other appliances are using gas along with the heater.
I am having same issue once a month code 12...I adjusted Dip 2 switch number 2 to on...going to see if it fixes it....I'm at altitude..6500 feet...I have the dip switch set for this altitude
@@rickpowell1402 yeah had no water then i left for a few seconds to do something else and it stopped blinking. All of a sudden it was working again. We just installed it 2 days prior. So i have no clue. By the way mine is gas.
I see the complexity in the compact high efficiency hot water heating system. Being an electrical engineer, I would say it is not too difficult to design a diagnostic system which points to a one or two defective component to fix the problem. In short these designers have long way to go to design their own control systems in place of subcontracted out to the China mass product design team.
I'm an electrical Engineer as well and I completely agree with you. I've been tempted to do exactly that. I've owned tankless water heaters for 15+ years and I have found the diagnostics to be quite aggravating.
Testing the gas valve. Code 13 you want to check gas and venting and be sure to check it 100%. In the video the testing of the gas valve and solenoids will be a code 13 check. Cleaning flame rods and cleaning burner assembly may also be a step you’ll need to take.
No, code 13 would need to be investigated. Venting must be checked. Check venting dip switches, lengths and elevation settings. Gas pressures both static and dynamic checked and also checked when other gas appliances are firing. The burner may also need to be checked and cleaned. However if the burner is very dirty this is a symptom of a problem. Which means it will dirty up again if you cannot determine what’s causing it.
First off all, thank you Rick and thank you Rheem for making this video. I realize you didn’t have to do this, but wow I learned a lot. Second, I have a RTGH-95DVLN, serial RHUNM131307877 tankless. I have error 13, but also failing the flame rod tests (around min 16). My 2 flame rods look very different from each other and have different connectors, but I can only find 1 part on Rheem’s part site. Can I essentially use 2 flame rod 1s (white) instead of a white & blue? Thank you!
then you should have FL1 and FL2. on the right will be the igniter. yes the blue and white plugs are the same. And the flame rods should also be identical.
It won’t let me post a picture, but my flame rods are skewed to the left a little more than in your example unit. My flame rod 1 (white connector) looks just like yours, but the far left flame rod (blue connector) has a slightly larger pin connector and the flame rod itself is shorter for some reason.
It was a decision that was made way up the food chain. I don’t have info but it may either have to do with them not wanting the heat exchanger removed in the field or they wanted it to be harder to bypass. It’s a shame because they’re are people that can do this, truly mechanical engineering type people, but there are more of the other type that install outdoor water heaters indoors, breathe in exhaust, and then have to go to the Dr for headaches. Can’t count the number of times I’ve seen that.
@@Rogerunion it many cases. It’s not the water heater. It can be an install issue or perhaps someone worked on it that shouldn’t have. Happens all the time.
O NO not obd2 codes. These things gonna be worst than cars. Check engine lights I thought I wanted 1 of these. Now I may just stick with the old proven and reliable tank. That thing looks like space ship behind the panel.
If we can educate the majority of plumbers diagnosis and repairs will be quicker and easier, these heaters are also still very serviceable by homeowners. It looks intimidating but it’s not.
It's irreplaceable if you need constant hot water flow like for my big hot top. With 40 gallons tank I had less than half of needed water. I installed tankless myself and for 8 years was perfect. Now I have to figure out error 13
That freaking beeping is the bane of my existence. I will never buy a green again. Nothing but issues and no answers from tech support. Not even a year old I have had flame rods go bad, thermistors go bad, ignition coil. Just a nightmare of a unit.
Take it back and exchange it, also have someone familiar with reading the use and care manual check the install, a lot of issues are installation related
@@SunriseLAW I would recommend you have a different installer look at your system, the venting and intake are not correct, the correct configuration is outlined in the use and care manual. If you want to return the unit that is not anything Rheem will prevent you from doing, tell your point of purchase you have a defect and want it swapped out. They do not need to call Rheem to do an exchange anymore than walmart would need to call Apple to swap out some airpods. However I do believe the issues are caused in some part by the incorrect install, If I were you I would have a serious conversation with your installer, and then get a different one.
Great video sir. I have intermittent code 11. My heater is much smaller than one you show. I will have to remove some aluminum covers to get to flame rods. Gonna try cleaning those first
Hi ! wondering if you help. My tankless water hear is not producing hot water to shower /faucet intermittently. I have to close hot water valve that is going from water heater to my HVAC to get water back hot in shower/faucet. I do see flame in the tank but as soon as I close the valve going to HVAC flame is higher and water to shower is hot .model is CRTGH-95dvln-2
Hello,
Thanks for making the video. It will be great if each error code solution was time tagged to chapters i.e error code 11, 0.5minute-15minutes, that way you can choose the error code you’re having with ease and not confuse the solutions.
I agree. Not quite that good at editing yet. But will get there.
"What if my contractor doesn't have a multi-meter?" LMAO. I would ask Angi to remove them from her list! Awesome video Sir. I can't even get a contractor that doesn't have a multi-meter. So I'm on my own with this one. And we won't get into my experience with the phone Agents. Thanks again. Infinitely crucial info I was needing. I have the newer unit, but they are similar enough that I'm able to work through the board changes. I'd be dead "in the water" (no pun intended) without this vid.
@@macdaddymac6785 that’s the problem we have all over, the guy that’s really good at roughing in a house or doing drain work or maybe running gas line goes to diagnose water heater and is basically at the mercy of Tech Support. It’s not a good system. Take for instance if you have a medical problem, you go to a doctor that specializes in whatever that is maybe for joints maybe for something with the circulatory system but a plumber you just get a guy that’s licensed and maybe he can do what you need and maybe he can’t but the problem is they fake it a lot of times. fake it till you make it they say
Where are y’all getting codes?
@10:15 is Code 12
I am constantly getting error code 12. It seems like anytime we try to control the temperature it gives me the error code. Or if we’re using a low volume of water. When we shower it’s got to be the hottest temperature or it gives error code 12 it seems
One of the gaskets completely crumbled and so OHL was damaged. What would cause it to crumble? We're being told nothing can be done, but the gasket should not have crumbled! We've only had this unit for 2 years!!
Thank you for taking time to make video. Learnt a lot from it
I have bought 3 Rheem tankless heaters so far. First was for my house when we had propane. 2nd was to replace the LP when we drilled a NG gas well. The third was in anticipation of building a house for my daughter. An LP unit. Installation went without any problems, and according to directions and code. (I thought) A couple days ago my daughter called and had no hot water. It would come on, briefly and shut off. On as, light on remote comes on humms a bit and shuts off. Inside 01 flashing. I had her turn on hot water, and heard only a humm, no start. I suspected the fan motor as it's the first to come on. I called the 800 # in the manual and reached a service agent lady who took all our info. She asked where the unit was installed, -in a basement, under a factory built, modular home. Not mobile, modular. She told me they would not cover it under warranty. Ok. How about tell me whats wrong. NOPE. She said it was not designed for mobile home applications. Its in a conventionally built basement under a normally looking home. NOT mobile. It was like talking to a rubber wall. Anything I said she came back with the same answer. I told her Rheem just lost a future customer.
I don't give a sh.. where it's installed, she could at least help with troubleshooting. I looked up the HUD document code she quoted, and I could not fine anything that related to a different requirement for mobile home or conventional home installations. Or how they should be built. We tried about 6 different plumbers, 3 didn't work on them 2 don't like to, "there too hard", and 1 said it would be about a week. $275 just to come out. +++ So I'm on ytube checking all different things it might be. Next searching for parts suppliers. FU.. Rheem.
There is definitely a difference between a modular home and a mobile home. Who was it you spoke with? Name? What is the serial number to your unit ?
Was wondering what that baggie of gaskets was for! Thanks!
Do you know what causes the cover of the unit to deflect (making a popping sound) when the unit is first turned on? I have asked rheem tech support and no one has a clear answer....any ideas? thanks
mine does the same for the last 5 yrs.
Check all screws. Make sure it’s all tight. When blower kicks on there is a change in the air pressure and the front panel can make that noise.
I'm having the same thing...Rheem telling me it's a venting/air imbalance issue....but getting different techs saying different fixes for the venting....really struggling with frustration......I also watched video online with this popping being from delayed ignition issues sometimes caused by gunk/dead roach within.... I installed this August 23. Popping started a few months after.
I was also told by rheem that the air imbalance causing the popping flex is slowly damaging the unit
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
This was very helpful. I unfortunately have once again been getting a code 12 once a day for the last 3 days. Water Heater was installed in in august last year. I spent 3 days on the phone with Rheem support trying to stop code 12. We determined everything was ok installation wise. The manifold set point chart on the heater was not on the unit. In aug, I basically increased the manifold set points until the code 12 stopped triggering every time the unit fired. At what point should I use the unit warranty now that this is starting to occur? I am going to check dynamic and static gas pressures today with my manometer again. It was fine in august.
Did you check small filter cap every time before?
How about E 3 code ? I had this code for 5 years old Eccotemp. Hot water was always 120 F. Vent is clean, water pressure, gas pressure - Ok. I did Flushed water heater by cleaning vinegar. Still code E 3 On. Contacted costumer support - no help...
awesome video very helpful
When probing small connections use a small paper clip to get into back of connector then touch meter probes to paper clips
Randomly tripping code 12...once a month maybe. I'm at altitude...6500 feet. I have the altitude dip switch set right. My venting is 10 feet with one wide sweep 90 degree. As a experiment...I set dip 2 switch 2 on...supposed to be for extra long venting...which I shouldn't need. I want to see what happens.
How did it go,I’m having same issue,new unit 12 error randomly,8ft 2inch venting
This vid is awsome. Now I need to know what tool is used to test the input gas pressure. Thank you!!!
Manometer
When I did the blue cable ( flame rod 2) only I got a 4. What did it mean?
Super video! This is great! Thanks!
Got a code 11 on my brand new Rheem tankless gas WH - I had forgotten to turn the gas valve on!
No have power in the termostato, help me
She is a SMART woman !
I have no power to the heart control where you see the temperature an codes
Thanks for the great video. I’m getting a error 12 but it is intermittent maybe once a month but when it does happen it seems to repeat for a day or so. Any idea what this could be?
Venting or gas issues. Possible due to install error or environmental. Venting needs to be inspected, proper setting for vent and elevations checks. Gas pressure both static and dynamic. If you have other things on the gas system and the system isn’t sized properly you will have issues. Check burner clean as needed.
@@rickpowell1402 Thanks for the reply. I did have it professionally installed. I double checked everything. Used 2” pipe but only 11 ft with 3 elbows so no need to change dip switches. Over sized main gas line 2”down to 3/4” at water heater. There is a 2’ flex gas pipe but looks like that meets requirements. What pressure should I be looking for on the gas line? It’s just 2 years old.
@@chrisnelson3470 Look on your rating plate by model and serial number, the gas specs will be there. you'll need to insure the pressures do not drop to low when other appliances are using gas along with the heater.
I am having same issue once a month code 12...I adjusted Dip 2 switch number 2 to on...going to see if it fixes it....I'm at altitude..6500 feet...I have the dip switch set for this altitude
I have a richmond which is made by rheem. I got a code 17 which is not in the manual. Do you know what this code is. I have a gas unit 199900 btu
No code 17. Possibly a malfunction of the pcb or the controller
@@rickpowell1402 yeah had no water then i left for a few seconds to do something else and it stopped blinking. All of a sudden it was working again.
We just installed it 2 days prior. So i have no clue. By the way mine is gas.
I see the complexity in the compact high efficiency hot water heating system. Being an electrical engineer, I would say it is not too difficult to design a diagnostic system which points to a one or two defective component to fix the problem. In short these designers have long way to go to design their own control systems in place of subcontracted out to the China mass product design team.
I'm an electrical Engineer as well and I completely agree with you. I've been tempted to do exactly that. I've owned tankless water heaters for 15+ years and I have found the diagnostics to be quite aggravating.
When is code 13 addressed in the video?
Testing the gas valve. Code 13 you want to check gas and venting and be sure to check it 100%. In the video the testing of the gas valve and solenoids will be a code 13 check. Cleaning flame rods and cleaning burner assembly may also be a step you’ll need to take.
Control panel turned off and can’t turn it on, why?
Check power to controller
What do you do if the plastic wrap is torn?
replace the water heater
Absolutely, nothing wrong with that.
Would descaling help with error code 13?
No, code 13 would need to be investigated. Venting must be checked. Check venting dip switches, lengths and elevation settings. Gas pressures both static and dynamic checked and also checked when other gas appliances are firing. The burner may also need to be checked and cleaned. However if the burner is very dirty this is a symptom of a problem. Which means it will dirty up again if you cannot determine what’s causing it.
This video is great. It would be even better with some timestamps.
First off all, thank you Rick and thank you Rheem for making this video. I realize you didn’t have to do this, but wow I learned a lot.
Second, I have a RTGH-95DVLN, serial RHUNM131307877 tankless. I have error 13, but also failing the flame rod tests (around min 16). My 2 flame rods look very different from each other and have different connectors, but I can only find 1 part on Rheem’s part site. Can I essentially use 2 flame rod 1s (white) instead of a white & blue?
Thank you!
Do you have the interior water heater or is yours on the exterior with the side outlet vent?
Interior with top vents.
then you should have FL1 and FL2. on the right will be the igniter. yes the blue and white plugs are the same. And the flame rods should also be identical.
It won’t let me post a picture, but my flame rods are skewed to the left a little more than in your example unit. My flame rod 1 (white connector) looks just like yours, but the far left flame rod (blue connector) has a slightly larger pin connector and the flame rod itself is shorter for some reason.
Ah you have the fist generation. Yes they will be different.
Get the correct replacement. Look online as other places carry parts also.
Excellent video
Great Instructional Video! Why is the thermal safety plastic non-replacable? The rest of the unit is fine. I hate to throw away $1400.00.
It was a decision that was made way up the food chain. I don’t have info but it may either have to do with them not wanting the heat exchanger removed in the field or they wanted it to be harder to bypass. It’s a shame because they’re are people that can do this, truly mechanical engineering type people, but there are more of the other type that install outdoor water heaters indoors, breathe in exhaust, and then have to go to the Dr for headaches. Can’t count the number of times I’ve seen that.
Awesome!!!!!
The worst hot water heater I have ever owned!!! Do not buy it. Winter time, you will be showering with cold water.
@@Rogerunion it many cases. It’s not the water heater. It can be an install issue or perhaps someone worked on it that shouldn’t have. Happens all the time.
O NO
not obd2 codes. These things gonna be worst than cars.
Check engine lights
I thought I wanted 1 of these. Now I may just stick with the old proven and reliable tank.
That thing looks like space ship behind the panel.
If we can educate the majority of plumbers diagnosis and repairs will be quicker and easier, these heaters are also still very serviceable by homeowners. It looks intimidating but it’s not.
It's irreplaceable if you need constant hot water flow like for my big hot top. With 40 gallons tank I had less than half of needed water. I installed tankless myself and for 8 years was perfect. Now I have to figure out error 13
Code 29
I have that video posted
Code 61
123 volts of ac current 😂
Some people don't know amps from volts
I'll stick with my conv water heater thank you.
That freaking beeping is the bane of my existence. I will never buy a green again. Nothing but issues and no answers from tech support. Not even a year old I have had flame rods go bad, thermistors go bad, ignition coil. Just a nightmare of a unit.
Take it back and exchange it, also have someone familiar with reading the use and care manual check the install, a lot of issues are installation related
I might have it. The 5/8 gas line doesn’t support enough btu . Got a 1” od that has up to 290kbtu let’s hope this fixes it.
What is your serial number ?
@@SunriseLAW I would recommend you have a different installer look at your system, the venting and intake are not correct, the correct configuration is outlined in the use and care manual. If you want to return the unit that is not anything Rheem will prevent you from doing, tell your point of purchase you have a defect and want it swapped out. They do not need to call Rheem to do an exchange anymore than walmart would need to call Apple to swap out some airpods. However I do believe the issues are caused in some part by the incorrect install, If I were you I would have a serious conversation with your installer, and then get a different one.
@@SunriseLAW I'm Just here trying to help fix water heaters, If you want me to try and help you further I'm happy to do so.