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Looks like your meter is on ohms, you should have it on the mv setting

Worst video ive ever seen. Dont make another one

makes me nervous, mines a 2017 and i am trying to take the anode rod out.

How do I increase temperature past the default max 120 degrees

Love how you work. None of this gentle and easy crap. I've got work to do and money to make.

I wouldn’t trust this guy changing my garden hose …let alone my water heater …. Jesus this was painful to watch

I didn't catch what type of material is being used, Aluminum, magnesium or zink

What I noticed on mine after having to dig out the foam that covered it, the nut portion was all rusted due to condensation buildup. When i replaced it with new aluminum rod, now that it's exposed to air it's prone to sweating and the nut portion will likely rust due to condensation long term. I need to have a good solution to a closed cell insulation to plug off the top

took 25 minutes.(next time, it will take 10...hope there isn't one as this was only 8 months old) The video is optimal placing of everything, but it's possible to replace. you will need a flash light to light the area where you are working

i keep getting the error code, ive already taken hose out and drained what i could drain

Hi Rick is this the same programming for a dedicated line ?

Hey Rick, I wanted to thank you for helping me over a year ago with my code 29 error on my water heater. I’ve used it many times since then but I have a new problem. I need a new neutralizer mine is dead. Where can I find one that’s compatible with my old Rheem tankless water heater? The rheem website doesn’t make the old neutralizer that my system needs. Any ideas?

THIS GUY IS A BUTCHER

1/2 inch impact wrench might be better

Bad for your hand! Get a rubber mallet, use a piece of 2x4, get an impact wrench . I know, I beat my hand up and am now paying for it!

Rheem is either tremendously stupid or they are setting up for their installers with special tools. There is a tiny space around the anode rod nut. Way smaller thinner than a standard 1 1/16 socket. THERE IS NO REASON for it to be so difficult. Rheem should be ashamed.

Corrosion on grey wired thermistor. Video doesn't show well enough which part the pipinf the thermistor actually comes from, he just pulls it off. Otherwise helpful

Would impact drill be ok to use

On the modern units there is a plastic finishing piece attached to the outer shell of the unit. It neatens up the appearance but it makes it impossible to get a standard one and one-sixteenth socket into the hole? Do you need an ultra slim socket? Do you remove the plastic finishing piece?

How about E 3 code ? I had this code for 5 years old Eccotemp. Hot water was always 120 F. Vent is clean, water pressure, gas pressure - Ok. I did Flushed water heater by cleaning vinegar. Still code E 3 On. Contacted costumer support - no help...

Been getting some error codes lately. A005 Discharge temp high overnight 2 days ago and then A108 Condensate Blocked: Unclog Line overnight last night. I keep the unit in heat pump only mode and it appears to be working fine so not sure if maybe a thermistor is going bad. Going to wait and see what happens as I have this unit in series with a dumb Rheem unit as storage/backup so not a big deal if it fails. I am saving about $400 a year with this unit in heat pump only mode. It uses more energy in Energy Saver mode, ironically. Really hoping this thing fails at 9 years and 9 months as it will pay for itself in about 3.5 years with my DIY install cost of $1500 on a 50 gallon unit. That will be about $6000+ in net savings over 20 years by installing this unit in Georgia. Yes it makes an annoying wining noise so install it in a garage and yes it works when it is 20 degrees outside. Runs a lot in the winter and a lot less in the hot summer when the garage is 90 degrees. I installed the second unit as a smart Rheem unit failed 2x and they acted like it was no big deal to wait 3-4 days for a part each time. Now I will never run out of hot water and it will never be an emergency to replace or fix one of the units. Install these with flex connectors so you can easily swap one out if Rheem gives you a return number to take it back to the store. Great video, thanks!

awesome video very helpful When probing small connections use a small paper clip to get into back of connector then touch meter probes to paper clips

Do you need to replace that plastic grommet that you had to destroy? What's the purpose of it besides making it more difficult to replace the anode?

Control panel turned off and can’t turn it on, why?

Why you in such a hurry?

Code 29

I received 3 pieces of precut non asphalt cork tape. Anyone know what these are for?

Thank you for your knowledge

0:24 is that a fuse at the top? I took on water, pilot lights but 10 minutes later burner still not lit… FQA says possibly combustion shutoff device was TRIPPED… once tripped it must be replaced?? XG40S06EC34U0

Looks he drew the short straw and had to do the video and was pissed. Wouldn't want him working on anything at my house

Why they make them so hard to get out

Because I run a sodium (salt) based water softener system - the magnesium rod will likely get wasted really quick. Customer support confirmed this … but just double checking here - will an aluminum anode be better? I was quoted part UV99004 (42” flexible aluminum rod).

You should show how to build the new ball valve.

Damn

Got a Rheem hot water heater installed a little over a year ago and the hot water has smelled nasty ever since. Cold water is fine. Does the anode rod come installed from the factory or did they forget to put one in? Tradesmen where I live are mostly idiots.

I'm not a plumber (hvac service tech) certified & have worked on 90% heat pumps in Florida for about the last 10 years. I called Rheem fone # on my heat pump water heater and read them fault codes & they were helpful & are supposed to be sending me replacement sensors. My question is why did they or 1 fail? I'm more than happy to accept all 3 to replace just in case. I really would like to know if anyone has any input on why the sensor failed? My other concern is usually cheaper parts save more expensive ones. I'm literally probably a few months out of parts warranty and if I just replace sensors and it works fine again for few months then boom expensive part fails & out of warranty. I'm only asking because I have never needed to apply my heat pump credentials to water heater before. Maybe I'm over thinking it?

Getting a fill error on mine, any suggestions? Thanks!

he is rough that's why peoples heaters leak

The glass broke in my Rheem 75 and I can still light the burner?

Ya need a rubber mallet

The condensate tray in the rheem heat pump is a manufacturer defect and is defective due to the fact the cold side is sitting in the tray without the needed one inch above tray to stop false alarms and black mold buildup. Plus tray is not angle toward the escape holes so a puddle sits in tray all times. I don't recommend getting rheem unless you have top pulled of and check to see if they fixed the defective tray.

Got a code 11 on my brand new Rheem tankless gas WH - I had forgotten to turn the gas valve on!

are all the thermistprs the same on hybrid 10e50hp530

My unit is 3 years old. Could not get the old one loose. Even tried an impact wrench on it. Didn't want to keep hitting it when it didn't come loose after 15 seconds. Not sure what to do next.

There's I absolutely nothing better on RUclips than a person that gets to the point with out bullshit loved your video dude thank you🎉

I don't have a visible drain valve at the location where I connected the hose (very similar to yours but no valve to unscrew).

How long is the original anode rod?

I torched it banged it rocked it. Won’t come out. Pain in the a

Should have a 15 year heat exchanger warranty. No need to replace entire unit.

They used self tapping screws so the mechanics below are salted with metal filings. The crew that build mine dropped a screw into anode access that seems glued in place now and impedes full seating of socket. Access hole for anode off center so socket wouldn't fall into place after clearing the errant screw. Grrr.