This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
Micah, congrats on fixing the problem. You may want to schedule an annual filter check on your phone. Also don't forget about flushing the system. ruclips.net/video/jQ7Y6ujFbWg/видео.html
My filter was striped on the out side and striped in the middle. Someone tightened way to tight. I bought “The Tankless Tool” and it absolutely worked. I was able to loosen and replace my filter.
Helpful video! This fixed my P1 error code. Note that this video does not show the user bleeding the pressure from the line. When I did this I got a rush of water coming out of the filter as the system depressurized. I'd recommend you turn off the cold and hot, and then use the pressure release above the hot water valve. Grab a bucket just in-case you still have some pressure built-up in the machine.
Thank you for mentioning that, another way to depressurize is to open hot water faucet after shutting off the cold water service valve to the tankless and prior to closing off the hot service valve. Thanks for the feedback.
If you are frequently getting lots of settlement in the filter you may want to consider larger filter before the tankless. Good to hear this video helped out, thanks for sharing and the feedback.
Awesome, thank you!!! We had water issues due to our main filter breaking down, but replacing the filter didn't fix the hot water pressure. I figured there had to be a filter somewhere on the heater unit, you saved me calling the plumber on a Sunday :)
Excellent video with very clear instructions. A model for other instructional videos. Question: I have a RUTGH-95DVLN-2 model. Instruction manual says to drain the heater after shutting cold intake off. Is that not necessary? Thanks.
When removing water filter the water in the unit will pour out so it can get a little messy if you don't drain it first. If you have enough towels you can do it without draining. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
@@cfldriven In video at 24 seconds in, there is a brass colored cap with a black strap and yellow tag near the blue cold water shut off valve. What is that? On my unit there is a blue shut of valve on that. My cold valve is just below where yours is, and it has a yellow handle. ??? Thanks for all your help.
@@timirving9117 That is the service port, also one on the hot water side, they are used to flush the system of minerals and deposits. This video ruclips.net/video/St38CFhiaI0/видео.html will show you the process on my first Rheem. As to the yellow handle, I guess they were out of red as that tends to be the proper color for hot water, but yellow will do.
I've had my heater for about 6 years and only just learned about this. However, I unscrewed the black plug and the filter mesh part is stuck inside. It spins around freely, but I just cant get it to come out. If I use force it will probably break the plastic surround part. Any ideas?
Sometime the filter screen can come off the plug. The filter screen should be able to gently tugged out with a plastic hook and it will clip back onto the plug before you reinstall.
Yes and that is what we do at 4:26 when we run the hot water faucet before starting the unit. The actual run in the unit is short so as soon as the water valve is opened and you open the hot water the air is purged. What you see in the video is the air after traveling through the plumbing to get to the sink. Would it hurt to do it the way you suggest, absolutely not. Thank you for the suggestion.
Teflon tape may work while looking for a replacement part from Rheem or plumbing store. You could also try a search on Home Depot for Rheem PROTECH Inlet Water Filter, currently $11.
@@believeinjesus8300 I see your filter is stuck in place, I thought it was already out. Let us know if the tool works as this might be a useful fix for others.
That filter assembly does not seal with torque…the o-ring just has to be seated in the housing…so, turn the filter until it hits bottom…no need to use a wrench!
My experience with two of these units has been different. Removing the filter for the first time involved a wrench and seating it without a wrench always resulted in a leak. Glad to hear this is not always the case. Thank you for sharing.
@@cfldriven Possible the filter was not screwed all the way down until you used a wrench, so it leaked. The filter uses an o-ring, not a bottom gasket/seal, so torque is irrelevant. Still, a very good video! Some of the videos on annual tankless flushes do not mention the filter, so your video is a terrific reference!
I hand tightend the filter but it was leaking a little and then used a wrench to give mine a little extra snug fit and it's still dripping or leaking a little. But I'm in the middle of the cleaning so I hope after the flush I'll re seat it and hopefully it stops leaking. 1st flush on a 1.5 year old unit.
@@GB-fe1ci There are two gaskets on the filter, 2:17 in video, make sure they are clean and in place. Also a touch of plumber's grease not Vasoline might help.
Yes the different light color temperatures in the kitchen fooled the auto white balance of the camera. The sink is white and the water is really clear.
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
An obstructed water filter can certainly slow down and even stop the flow of water. Glad to hear the wait is over, thank you for watching.
My hot water suddenly turned off tonight and the instructions in video did the trick. Thanks so much for showing how to fix it, I owe you a beer.
Micah, congrats on fixing the problem. You may want to schedule an annual filter check on your phone. Also don't forget about flushing the system. ruclips.net/video/jQ7Y6ujFbWg/видео.html
My filter was striped on the out side and striped in the middle. Someone tightened way to tight. I bought “The Tankless Tool” and it absolutely worked. I was able to loosen and replace my filter.
Helpful video! This fixed my P1 error code. Note that this video does not show the user bleeding the pressure from the line. When I did this I got a rush of water coming out of the filter as the system depressurized. I'd recommend you turn off the cold and hot, and then use the pressure release above the hot water valve. Grab a bucket just in-case you still have some pressure built-up in the machine.
Thank you for mentioning that, another way to depressurize is to open hot water faucet after shutting off the cold water service valve to the tankless and prior to closing off the hot service valve. Thanks for the feedback.
thank you so much!! our heater was not working at all. we have well water and the filter was pretty dirty. This helped immediately
If you are frequently getting lots of settlement in the filter you may want to consider larger filter before the tankless. Good to hear this video helped out, thanks for sharing and the feedback.
Awesome, thank you!!! We had water issues due to our main filter breaking down, but replacing the filter didn't fix the hot water pressure. I figured there had to be a filter somewhere on the heater unit, you saved me calling the plumber on a Sunday :)
You have a plumber that will come out on a Sunday! Not in my area. Good to hear the video saved you a service call. Thank you for watching.
Thank you, youvideo was helpful.
Ali, thank you for watching.
Very useful!
Phyrum, good to hear you found this video useful. thank you for watching.
Thanks!
You are very welcome, thanks for watching.
Excellent video with very clear instructions. A model for other instructional videos. Question: I have a RUTGH-95DVLN-2 model. Instruction manual says to drain the heater after shutting cold intake off. Is that not necessary? Thanks.
When removing water filter the water in the unit will pour out so it can get a little messy if you don't drain it first. If you have enough towels you can do it without draining. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
@@cfldriven In video at 24 seconds in, there is a brass colored cap with a black strap and yellow tag near the blue cold water shut off valve. What is that? On my unit there is a blue shut of valve on that. My cold valve is just below where yours is, and it has a yellow handle. ??? Thanks for all your help.
@@timirving9117 That is the service port, also one on the hot water side, they are used to flush the system of minerals and deposits. This video ruclips.net/video/St38CFhiaI0/видео.html will show you the process on my first Rheem. As to the yellow handle, I guess they were out of red as that tends to be the proper color for hot water, but yellow will do.
it's a good video so long as you play it at 2x speed...
LOL, thank you for watching, even at 2X.
What is the fitting called that the filter screws into? I can find the filter but I can not find that fitting it seats into. Thanks!
It is called Water Inlet Connector 3/4" part RTG20164J probably around $66. I believe it includes the filter. Hope this helps.
@@cfldriven Thank you
I've had my heater for about 6 years and only just learned about this. However, I unscrewed the black plug and the filter mesh part is stuck inside. It spins around freely, but I just cant get it to come out. If I use force it will probably break the plastic surround part. Any ideas?
The plug and filter are meant to be together. Just clean the filter screen and reinstall into unit.
Sometime the filter screen can come off the plug. The filter screen should be able to gently tugged out with a plastic hook and it will clip back onto the plug before you reinstall.
Rheem tankless water heater error 29
Shouldn’t u purge the air out before turning unit on?
Yes and that is what we do at 4:26 when we run the hot water faucet before starting the unit. The actual run in the unit is short so as soon as the water valve is opened and you open the hot water the air is purged. What you see in the video is the air after traveling through the plumbing to get to the sink. Would it hurt to do it the way you suggest, absolutely not. Thank you for the suggestion.
How about if the the filter is stripped all to hell?
Teflon tape may work while looking for a replacement part from Rheem or plumbing store. You could also try a search on Home Depot for Rheem PROTECH Inlet Water Filter, currently $11.
@@cfldriventhanks !
I found a tool that connects to a socket wrench, the tool goes into the inlet filter it’s called The Tankless Tool. Hope it works.
@@believeinjesus8300 I see your filter is stuck in place, I thought it was already out. Let us know if the tool works as this might be a useful fix for others.
@@cfldriven 👍🏾
@@cfldriven tool is supposed to show up today. Hopefully it shows up, and hopefully it works.
What if there’s no filter
It comes with a filter. If it missing get one as you don't want particles causing a clog.
That filter assembly does not seal with torque…the o-ring just has to be seated in the housing…so, turn the filter until it hits bottom…no need to use a wrench!
My experience with two of these units has been different. Removing the filter for the first time involved a wrench and seating it without a wrench always resulted in a leak. Glad to hear this is not always the case. Thank you for sharing.
@@cfldriven Possible the filter was not screwed all the way down until you used a wrench, so it leaked. The filter uses an o-ring, not a bottom gasket/seal, so torque is irrelevant.
Still, a very good video! Some of the videos on annual tankless flushes do not mention the filter, so your video is a terrific reference!
I hand tightend the filter but it was leaking a little and then used a wrench to give mine a little extra snug fit and it's still dripping or leaking a little. But I'm in the middle of the cleaning so I hope after the flush I'll re seat it and hopefully it stops leaking. 1st flush on a 1.5 year old unit.
@@GB-fe1ci There are two gaskets on the filter, 2:17 in video, make sure they are clean and in place. Also a touch of plumber's grease not Vasoline might help.
I got it. I didn't have the O ring seated properly. Thanks for your informative video!
Now like $18+
Thank you for the update.
thats the most yellow water I've almost ever seen
Yes the different light color temperatures in the kitchen fooled the auto white balance of the camera. The sink is white and the water is really clear.