Troubleshooting Tankless Water Heaters In MINUTES ~ Step By Step
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 июн 2024
- A highly comprehensive "step by step" video on how a Tankless Water Heater operates, and how to identify the cause of a Tankless Water Heater no hot water flow or power failure problem. This is one of the few videos on RUclips which shows actual testing of multiple components. Your Tankless Water Heater may vary from the one shown in this video, but the principles are the same. Please only ask questions AFTER you have performed the tests outlined in this video. I cannot answer you unless I have the results from those tests first.
My other highly popular Electric Water Heater video is here:
• How To Repair Electric...
** USE THE PAUSE BUTTON during the video to read all the important annotations! **
** If you have any "simple" questions, please post them in the comments section. I will try my best to reply back as soon as possible. I have lots of people that request "Special Assistance", or send me private YT messages seeking "Special Assistance" in response to one or more of my over 500 videos, even though I would love to assist everyone possible, and usually I do (which many other YT channels do not, that I know for an absolute fact), I am finding it very difficult to keep up with all the requests, due to a lack of time(working & personal life). Answering simple questions, I will always continue to do, but I have adopted a new policy in which I ask any viewer who seeks, "An Advanced Level Of Help" to post at least (1) link in the video comment section showing that they shared my RUclips Channel main page with others(posting a link on another website, Twitter, Facebook, etc). By doing so, I will then be glad to assist at a "higher" level. I have no problem helping, but viewers looking for help, should also help me in return to get more exposure for my channel. Taking the time to assist someone at a, "higher level" who does not share my channel, simply does not make sense. Help those who take the time to help you.**
BE SURE to read through any viewers questions in the comment section before posting new questions. Doing so will prevent duplication of questions and save time.
Thank You! 
Хобби
I wish there were more people who can explain things as well as you. Excellent job and i feel alot more confident and knowledgable now to acess my issues with my water heater. Thank you
One of the best troubleshooting videos I’ve ever seen on RUclips. Great information. Way to go.
Thanks Matt! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for other videos of interest to you, and most importantly share my videos with many others so I can continue to make more videos like this well into the future.
ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
As a professional educator, I say your tutorial is excellent! If you are not teaching, you seriously should consider doing so.
Thanks Jeremy! I really appreciate the kind words. I have many videos that cover a wide range of subjects. Be sure to look over my video playlists below, and most importantly share.
ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
absolutely perfect, clear and concise. I wanted to confirm I tested everything before ordering the flow sensor and you made that easy. Thanks!
Glad you liked the video James! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thanks
ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Where did you order the flow sensor?
wow! a repair video is useful and done logically. Thank You! I wish that there were more guys like you that knew what they were doing and willing to take the time. You can't get prints for a Rheem which is not as smart as the one that you demo but now I know what to look for. Thanks!
Excellent video, very well explained and logical trouble-shooting methodology. This will save the viewer a lot of money.
Glad you think so! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thanks
ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
It's obvious you know what your talking about just by your confidence... thanks for the help keep it up
Very well done ! Thank you for another great how to video.
All the best.
Bobby
Very well done and very informative. Thank you for taking the time to make this video available.
Eagle5fiddle You're welcome! Be sure to share my channel with others, and rate thumbs up. Thanks
I really appreciate your extreme knowledge of electronics.
Glad you enjoy my videos! Thanks for watching Don, be sure to rate thumbs up and share.
Excelente video maestro saludos desde México.
Thank you very much for this great video that actually explains how the system works. Like another poster said, I was able to rule out other faults before changing the water flux sensor.
I love it, very sistemátyc approach
Very thorough and well-explained sir. Thank you very much. You helped me diagnose a bad heating element. I used my multi-meter to measure the ohms between one of the heating element terminals and piping as you instruct around 8:00. I had tons of crud from the busted heating element run through my hot water pipes. It was a pain in the butt to flush out!
Very good video, thank you for this information.
Glad you enjoyed the video! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others. Thank You
I am the kind to open and investigate if can be fixed, many times a fuse is the problem but, you went way beyond helping. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! ❤ 🙏 🫂
The best nobody can do it any better - thanks very much
Glad you enjoyed the video! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others. Thank You
Great keep it up! Nice Vid! ...Electric Cars... water heaters... and solar panels on home... reduces Central planing tremendously .. i hope people get the big picture! .. Get these things install them .. when they break fix them... that's freedom to me!
Thank you very much, that was really helpful information, I let the commercial finish so you got credit :) Thumbs up
+Venicestu
Glad you enjoyed my video. Thank you VERY much for supporting my work by not blocking the ads. Much appreciated!
thank u sir..good demo👏👏👏👏👏👏
Step 1: Check the fuse and circuit breaker.
Step 2: Check and retighten any high current mechanical connections. (Check all other connectors for condition and security.)
Step 3: Check consumable or high wear, high power density components such as the heater elements, mechanical switches.
I cannot recall any control board systems just breaking or failing with the modern electronics.
Excellent and informative video. Thank You!
Thanks for watching! Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other great videos
of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with your friends.
I forgot .... After checking the high wear, high energy density items, going into your well laid out trouble shooting procedure is the next step. I have just been lucky that my control boards or electronics never failed.
Extremely informative and superbly instructed upon. Keep up the great instructional guidance.
Excellent explanation
Ifti Eddie Be sure to rate thumbs up and share. Thanks!
Explained very clear easy to understand thank you
Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to check out my video playlists, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others. Thank You
GREAT VIDIO. LOTS OF DETAIL!!!!
Thank you for a excellent tutorial. My problem is the water heater is always stuck at max heating. Can the NTC sensor on the outflow be a problem, any suggestion on possible suspects?
Great video , thank you for sharing . Very informative well articulate.
Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to check out my wide range of videos and share my Channel with others. Thank you
Great video. Ty for helping
Thanks! Glad it helped
excellent teacher! thank you
Glad you liked it! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, use supplied Amazon links to support my channel when making purchases(No added cost to you), and share links to my videos with many others on social networking sites. Thanks
ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Thank You very very much...this video is straight to the point and really educational .My Eco has just stopped heating, its lED dial is lighting up , I had just replaced one of the heating elements however its still not heating up ..Triacs ?could you make a video on replacing them ? I also have a question do the triacs fail in pairs? because my water is cold even when I put the dial to 43 * C, Last time I just replaced the element and every thing worked..anyway thank You once again.
No, they don't normally fail in pairs. Very easy to replace. Unscrew from heat sink, desolder, solder new triac in place, apply new thermal compound to the triac, then screw back onto heat sink.
I don't know if you still check in on this video. This is the BEST breakdown of the electric heaters I've found. The EcoSmart troubleshooter manual doesn't even get into the triacs and thermostats...
I have an Eco-27 that was running great for about 2 years (cleaned every 6 months too). Recently, the hot will intermittently cut out mid-shower, then come back on before I can run out to check for a code. I have yet to be able to catch a code, so I ran through testing the ohms for the elements and I replaced my flow impeller and sensor top (reused the body) because the impeller was starting to make a little odd noise (not the usual noise). Still has intermittent issues. Thermistors next? I was under the impression triacs are either good or bad, so am I correct in thinking these are not the problem? or maybe one or more of the thermostats? Your vid mentioned how to see if they are closed, but at what reading should they open? Wouldn't an open condition (hot) turn them off? Thank you for putting this together and for any input you can provide!
Edit, just caught the codes. When it shut off, the display reads "5103" and "P009". I can't locate those codes anywhere and they aren't the expected "E" codes in the troubleshooting guide. Turned back on a few moments later... Pulled the elements and they are clean but I noticed that #1 and #2 seem to have contact points near the top where the loop touches(d) the sides of the chamber. Is this normal and could this cause "grounding" or a short of some sort that kicks it off? Ordered new elements just in case (and having spares never hurts).
Thank you so much for this video! I have an Eemax unit and have done some trouble shooting over the phone. They tell me the problem is the magnet getting stuck, which would require a whole new assembly. I'm a little skeptical of this because the tests didn't seem consistent. Is there a way to test the operation of the magnet. Apparently the magnet in the Eemax unit is different from this because it's in a tube. Thanks again for this awesome video!
Thank you kindly .figured it out I think
I congratulate you.
I speak Spanish.
I had to translate this text to ask him to make a new video, but this time put the explanation written in Spanish in the description of the video.
That way it will also help those of us who speak Spanish ..!
please..!
Wow! All I can say is WoW! Great Job.
Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to check out my wide range of videos and share my Channel with others. Thank you
Bravo and thank you. Now that is how you make a tutorial.
Thank you John! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for other videos of interest to you, and most importantly share my channel with many others.
ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
We appreciate this video. You mention thermal transfer compound. What product do you recommend for use on the new triacs?
Thank you, sir, for this great video. I have an Ecco Smart 11. I am in the Sacramento, CA area with inlet temperature around 60 degrees F. My shower head limits to a flow of 1.6 gpm. My problem is that unit appears to only "sort of" working raising water temperature to 80 degrees. Voltage going into unit measured at 245 and amperage on wires going in to both heating elements is about 23.5 A for each. Also I have tried on 2 separate Eco Smart units with same results.
Could there be a problem with my double ple 60 amp breaker, or.. Is the shower fixture itself at fault?
Great explanation. Question....my JNOD tankless kicks down at 105 degrees even though set at 125. Small transformer seems to buzz now. ???? Won’t hold high temp and good water pressure.
Hi thank you for your well explained video. I noticed on my tankless water heater that the heater red LEDs were flashing and then the system turned off. I reset the heater however I am getting an issue. The heater will only start heating only when the water pressure is very low. If I turn the pressure up a little the heating LED indicator goes off and then no hot water.
Hi tanks for a great explanation, can I use an step up transformer to 220VAC since I have 110VAC Outlet?
Great video tutorial, very easy to follow,
My issue is that my water heater overheats at the hot end even when I switch off the heater, I'm still kind of new but I've tried what was displayed here.
The hot connector gets so hot that it melts the inner hose that leads the hot water to the house.
I don't know if it's the hot end temperature sensor.
I'm having the same problem. Did you ever find a fix?
Hello. Great video! It helped me understand whats going on how to test each component. I dont normally like to bother creators with personal questions, but for this ive searched everywhere and im at a loss. So thought I would ask. I have had intermittent hot water for some time. sometimes luke warm, sometimes hot. It finally went to all cold recently and when I inspected the unit (ecosmart 27) the first Triac was completely melted!!! So thats def the issue. But what I cant find out, and what really concerns me, is WHY did it melt. Ive ordered a new Triac, but is it just gonna melt (they arent cheap)? More importantly, is it going to start a fire in my house??? I thought the Fuse would trip to stop something like this, but even with it already melted, the circuit board light up and showed a temperature reading. Any ideas as to why it would melt like this? I read about triacs a bit, but it does get confusing. Did it fail open? Does this just happen sometimes and its ok? Any help from you, or anyone else that might read this, would be appreciated! ThankS!
Very good video. But I am not familiar with the model you present but I think the device in series with the heater attached to the tank is a thermal cut out or safety switch. The temperature of the water is controlled by the pwm of signal to the gate terminal of the triac.
Another excellent video very well explained. Thank you for making them. I have been looking into tankless heaters for some time but the reviews are all over the place. Many seem to fail that are quite expensive and it seems maybe a lower cost unit that you replace every five years is more economical over time. Have you researched these and what is your preference on brand or technology?
Jeff Barr No preference. :-). Just look for a reasonably priced unit with a good warranty. Thanks For Watching!
Marey ECO270 cheap p.o.s. loved your video, very informative 👏👍👌.
I was able to repair my Eco 11 quickly with your help. Thank you. I have a question. There are KW pins on the circuit board that you select according to the model you have. The last pin says 125. If I put a jumper there, does this mean the unit will always be at 125 degrees? I have a problem with someone dialing up the unit to 140 degrees. I have small children here and want to prevent an accident. Thanks again for the great video.
Glad it helped you! I no longer have that unit, I moved, so I cannot answer your question. I have many great videos on my channel, so be sure to look over my extensive video playlists, rate thumbs up, and most importantly share with others. Thanks!
I
ok sounds good I gave u a thumps up lol I watched it 2xs before messaging
great video love it thanks
carlos jg Great to hear!
Hey how are you I have a Takagi TK4-in I change the burner and the tank after that it reset ,now I’m getting a flashing #10 code on checking info says that code is np but I don’t think it’s normal could I get your honest input on this problem.thank you.
Nice video, I have a problem with my water heater which is 18l and powered by 2 d battery's, everything works as it should but if I turn the hot tap off the lcd screen stays on for ages so if I want hot water again while the screen is still lit the heater won't fire up again until the lcd screen goes off could you offer any advice many thanks
Possibly a faulty water flow sensor making the unit think water is still running when it's not. Thanks for watching!
We had a gas Rinnai RGU199 installed with a loop due to our house configuration in August. Hot side works perfect but cold side we get tepid warm water. It has to run a bit to ever get cold. Any idea as to the problem?
yes. we installed our cheap tankless water heater for which there is no listing online or factory phone number that works. cycles on and off but never on long enough to heat the water substantially. hopefully i will be able to adjust that somehow. i need to watch this more and more. your other videos are very useful.
Did you ever figure out what was wrong and how to fix it?
Hats off to you bro ! wonderful guide
Hello. Thanks for the video. I have a question: I have a Richmond brand system. All rooms get hot water except the kitchen. The water supply valve is wide open. If I do get hot water there, I have to let the water run maybe 5 to 7 minutes. Any information is very much appreciated. Thanks
Need help
Rheem tankless electric water heater not coming on, LED screen to lighting up weather I turn or push the knob.
I have power at the breaker and at the unit. I've changed out the control board and still having same problem. Any suggestions? Thank you
Thank you for so much information and very well conveyed to the electritards out here such as myself. my problem is different i was filling a bucket and lost complete power to the eco tank all together. any guidance on that issue? the unit is only 5 months old too i have an ecosmart 11. thanks
Make sure you have 240V at the terminals to the unit.
Wow, thanks for this video. Logical and succinct.
I know it has been awhile but I have a question.
From your explanation, the flow sensor will send a signal to the board to turn on the triacs to turn on the elements...
Wouldn't the outlet thermister cause the triacs to turn on the elements also?
Otherwise why have a thermister ?
Or would it be flow sensor turns on elements and thermisters fine tunes the amount of heating required?
The flow sensor and thermistors are both used together. :-)
I have a sharp WH-55 or hothot I have used your video to troubleshoot and found the potentiometer, the triac and the main double pole switch to be correct. The temperature sensor was open. No indication on the controller board of damaged components or burns. The triac is a combined item with two wires carrying ground and live and the third connection the gate I suppose from the controller board the neutral wire is connected at the terminal to a wire that returns to the control board. There is no transformer. In the end I found that the temperature sensor has a little pin on top and if you press that one the temp sensor closes again and allows current to go through. Thanks for your video
Awesome video,I had a problem but I was able to fixed it with the help of your video, thank you for the well made video,please continue the good job.
Luuga Tiapula You're welcome! Be sure to share.
Thank you very much, Sir. I removed my "thermostat and applied some thermal grease pest and screwed it back on and it worked for me, I don't know why though." Is that a thing? 🤝🙏🙏
hi. you have a video where you explain how test the water flow sensor?
I am getting power to one heating element but no power to the second one. The oil reading is good on both. What can I look for next?
Thank you for the informative video! Once I have determined is the flow sensor switch that is defective (by elimination). Do you know where I can order it? I have a 8.5KW Atmor waterless heater. I've looked online and have found nothing. Thank you!
Call the company. Thanks for watching!
hey there electronicN more I have a question I saw your video I have a American heat ADK-2 tankless water heater had it for 5 years change the elements twice, now I have a different problem the water heater is on but no hot water I checked the elements they're good. I used to see the lights go on and off according to the floor of the water but now I can move the thermostat to any degree and it does not do anything if I take one of the cables off one element it'll work on the highest level and gives me warm water if I have them both connected it won't do anything if you have any advice please help thanks
hi we have a tempre plus tankless water heater that keeps popping its high limit switch do you know why by any chance.
It would be great if you had a video on how to clean the flow sensor. EcoSmart sent me instructions for this, but they are incomplete and do not list all the steps. This video on electronics is outstanding and very useful. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed the video!
hey I'm making a small correction when I have the thermostat on the lowest level the lights go off and on like they used to but nothing happens when I turn it up to high they all stay on and give me warm water that's if I have one of the cables of either one of the elements disconnected if they're both connected like they supposed to I don't get nothing just every other second lights flickering acting like if it was on the lowest level Heat. thanks.
my 2nd triac wire is showing 126 volts on the element when the unit is off it is a eco 11 and i have useable hot water if i turn the breaker on and cut my cold water on in the bathroom sink to get the shower water hot. im ready to buy a new unit because the ecosmart tech support doesnt seem to understand their own products. one told me to replace triac 2 and another said flow sensor and ive done both and still having the same problem. now they are telling me the control board is bad. i could have almost bought a new unit by now. what do you suggest it is???
126v when breaker is on and unit is off on the 2nd triac wire testing the voltage on the element
My first heating element has power to both leads at all times even when water is turned off the triac has power coming out when water off any suggestions this is a eco11 tankless
I hope you can see my comment and provide some input. I did what you said to bypass one of the optocoupler on pin 4 and 6 and it worked again. I even changed a new control board and that ruined the optocouplers on the new control board. I would’ve just changed the optocouplers, but it seems that something else is breaking the optocoupler short. What could be the problem?
Your good man.
Thanks for watching Corey! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for other videos of interest to you and share.
ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
My tankless water heater looks identical to yours. My problem I will have intermittent hot water, it cycles hot to cold back to hot and again to cold. The green temp leds stay illuminated and I can hear the flow sensor working. Any thoughts on the intermittent cycling hot water?
I’ve been going back and forth with Rheem customer service. I have a RTEX36. I’ve had it for about 1 year. All of a sudden last September the water stopped getting hot. Most faucets will get warm but nothing over 90 degrees. The #1 element is the only one that never turns on which according to the manual should be the 1st one on. It’s also the only one with -0- volts. All of the elements are reading at 6 ohms. Customer service suggested I replace the #1 triac and the #1 thermostat. Nothing has worked and another caveat is when I turn on more than one faucet I’m getting an E5 error. Sorry for the long message, but I figured why not ask to see if you have any ideas. Thanks in advance.
I'm trying to modify a rheem just like this for commercial use I need to get it hotter than 140f is this something you or someone else could help with pls
Thanks for the video, can the triac be tested while in the circuit with an ohmmeter? I have Chronomite water heater, one triac is 90 ohms MT1 to gate, and the other is 1 ohm MT1 to gate. And I'm testing these while still installed in the circuit. Thanks.
For reliable testing, I desolder.
Great video. I have an intermittent issue where no water flows through the tankless at all. It has been coming and going the past few days. Any ideas what the issue could be?
Sounds like the water is partially frozen at the inlet, or the inlet filter screen is mostly clogged. Thanks for watching! Be sure to share my channel with others.
Is there a risk of electrocution when using a faulty instant water heater? How to prevent electrocution? Thanks.
I have a tankless electric hot water heater Marey Eco 270. Lately, it overheats the water to the point that it trips its internal breakers. What is the problem?
Hello Thanks for the video. I have a question. I need to buy a triac for my ecosmart 11. Are they both the same? because
online it shows 1st triac and 2nd not sure of which one is the 1st. The one that I have bad is the one closes to the cold water intake.
Thanks again
Hi did you find the answer? I have problem with my 11 also..so 1 and 2nd triacs are the same?
Hi, I have a question if you have time. I have tested everything in this video. I have 120V on each leg going in from the breaker. I have 12.5 VAC on the secondary of the transformer also I have around the same resistance that you got on the primary and secondary. I checked the continuity through the thermostats while cold water was running through it. I checked the resistance on the inlet and outlet temp sensor with an ice cube. Resistance goes up when ice cube is applied and goes down when removed. I hooked up both triacs the exact way you showed and they both worked by turning on the light bulb. The heating elements look fine upon visual inspection. No corrosion or bloating and they both read 10 ohms. The screen seems to work fine. I can turn it off/on, up/down and from C to F. I tried shorting pin 4and 6 on both the opto couplers with a pair of pliers. The temp of the water seemed to go up a small amount when I did that. Do you think I could have an issue with my water flow sensor? And if so is there anyway to know without having to test it with an O-scope? Do you have any other suggestion? Thank you
Sounds like a faulty flow sensor.
I'm having touble with mine Im not getting any hot water. The unit has power but the dial won't change the temp and even if I leave it pressed for 3 seconds it won't switch between c/f if I turn the breaker off and leave the button pressed before I turn it back on it will let me change temp for about 5 seconds then will freeze again. Do you know what might be wrong with it
Hi, really interesting and informative video! We have a rheem 13kw which has been working great for years and has good water flow. All of sudden quit heating..I followed some of your tests and have good supply voltage and the heat exchangers check out, what happens when I reset the unit is it goes into full heat whether or not there is any water moving or not.. The unit will not go into standby mode always full heat. For now we are just running the water and turning on the breaker to get hot water. In the interest of using the unit have not tore it apart to do any further tests. Do you have any idea what might be the cause of this malfunction. And of course if I let it sit with no water moving and it turned on it will over heat and kick the reset switch. Any help greatly appreciated..the wife says buy a new one!!
Definitely a faulty flow sensor or shorted triac.
@@electronicsNmore Thank you for the insight, I have since purchased new for obvious reasons but would like to fix the old one as a backup if possible. So will dive in and check out your other videos and such and see what I can do. It was great that it did not totally let me down, only one cold shower until I realized a workaround..Thanks again
I have a Rudd gas tankless hot water heater. I can get hot water everywhere in my house except the bathtubs and washing machine. I’m thinking it has something to do with the pressure? But cannot figure it out. In one of my tubs, it’s a tub/shower combo and if I use the shower, perfect hot water. If I turn the bathtub faucet to hot, to take a bath , the panel shows the flame (that it’s heating up) and then it goes cold and shows error code 11 on the display. There are so many things code 11 can mean it has blown my mind. Any ideas? Any suggestions would be helpful thank you!
What's it mean if the unit gets hot as soon as you Power It Up, without any water flow. Also the water won't flow anyways. It seems plugged. I'm thinking the flow sensor is melted and not turning
Hey man! Great video very informative. Quick questions recieved brand new instant hot water heater running off 5 gallon propane tank on outside wall of house. Plumber installed when faucet is on heater cuts on we hear ignitor clicking but it will not light and the water stays cold. My plumber is stumped and so am I. This is a brand new unit. Please help.
Maybe the wrong pressure(regulator).
What should i look out for if my electric heater is showing all lights and degrees but not change temperature from 25°c
first off , great video!
I have a titan n180 electric water heater. i have checked all possible causes with no luck of the culprit sticking out. I get hot water on a very low setting. however it will stop working then I have to adjust the temp on the unit up and down and up and down a bunch of times until I can get it to work on a low setting again. I'm guessing a faulty board but I'm not sure. I can see a voltage drop coming from all 4 triads when it decides to stop working. and don't any optos on the board
Check all wiring from the breaker panel to the heater. Measure the AC input voltage when the problem occurs. If the voltage drops, then you have a poor connection somewhere.
thanks for the response. the voltage stays the same coming from the breakers to the unit. voltage drop come from the triacs, (all 4). turn temp down all the way they output like they should, then I can turn up (sometimes,) 2 temp levels, (just under half.) if I go higher on temp, voltage drops from 120v per leg coming from triacs,to roughly 50v. never seen anything like it.
suscribe and personally sent link to friends of mine to check out the video, just a thanks for the response.
Hi I really watched your video and you recommended the heater elements were defective which I since replaced. The heater isn’t coming on so I checked the flow sensor and a 5 volt is not changing when water is turned on so the circuits aren’t sensing the water flow. What I noticed the flow sensor is not the recommended one I see in the parts listing for the ECO 11. It only has two wires. Is it just a switch then or how do I troubleshoot this part the two wire flow sensor. Thanks for any help you can provide.
If the unit doesn't turn on when the faucet is opened, then it's a flow sensor issue if the unit has power.
My control has no lights. I have a Rinnai and want to know if there is a battery in the control panels in the house?
You need to open up the unit and test for power. I have no idea what your model looks like. Thanks for watching
Me Again i wanted to test why i have no power on my unit the RTEX-04 but it doesnt have a transformer,or has none like your unit. as result ,Can you refer me to where i would do my testing/troubling shootin for a no power coming on. I do get required 120-124v going in the unit on the 'Screw terminals from the power cord
nice content
Glad you enjoyed it!
Have a Rheem RETE 7 that stopped heating water; water flowed through but the red indicator lights stopped coming on and water wasn’t being heated. Your vid helped me diagnose the flow sensor. Googled part number E226633 and found one for $20 free shipping. Easy enough repair-be safe! Replaced and my heater is working like a champ. Thank you!
Just read a bit about the triac and learned how it works with AC to DC power. if you can clarify this a bit further i would appreciate it
TRIACs are AC switches. When triggered, they conduct until the voltage crosses zero volts, then shut off. If triggered again, before the voltage comes back on the negative pulse, they'll conduct again. They get their trigger pulse from the optoisolators. The Isolators get their power from the DC supply on the board.
Good day man, awesome detailed videocant thank you enough. I love learning about these types of fixes and trblshoots... i have 1 question... read ur descrption :).. my question isnt relating to post-testing so much i guess. What i want to verify is. @ 10:35 you mention 240v. Is the unit you use here a 240 v heater or is it out of those 4 terminals they split into 2 collective volts of 120v. So the pair going out120v and the pair going in at 120v?. Sorry if i missed, i rewatched the vid. My heater looks almost exactly like yours here but it clearly says on my heater 120v. so When i probe two of the 4 terminals i get a reading of around 123-124 volts. is this correct? or should it still be as you stated at 240 v? thanks
240v heater with 240v elements. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore thank u for responding. That means my reading is accurate?120 v heater. . My 2 terminals at 122-124 volts,for a 120v element. .Thanks for being a teacher.Keep it up!
what is wrong of my tankless shower heater if i click to ON its automaticaly heat abnormaly even in not HEATING POINT ARROW pls help me and thank you
The 1 amp fuse that connects to the triac is blown on my unit. Any idea why this may have blown....on my unit, the fuse is soldered in. You do not mention how to troubleshoot if this fuse is blown.
I have an ecosmart tankless hot water heater. About 2 years old. Today is the first time I have ever had trouble with it. But if I turn my faucets on to thier normal position (dont have low flow faucets) to get the hot water it just comes out cold. If I turn them barley on water gets hot just like it should. Could it be one of the heating elements or what would you suggest looking into?
You need to do some tests. Maybe a faulty element, faulty flow sensor, or faulty mosfet.
I have an eemax 190TC with two elements. It worked fine for the first 2 years, but now the water isn't as hot as it used to be. I've replaced both heating elements and I still have the same results. One of the elements
isn't coming on because they have lights that show when they're activated. Any idea what it could be?
Faulty temp sensor, faulty triac, faulty flow sensor, or faulty control board in that order.
Hi...I have an ECO 11 like you are using and it blew the inlet pipes out with an explosive sound.. broke the PVC pipes. I connected it and heard an explosion again through the open pipes so I disconnected the power. I am trying to work around the problem but I am having problems around the flow meter and whether it blew out. I need to see it’s physical placement in the circuit...Thanks in advance.
Sounds like a faulty heating element. The hot water outlet must be CPVC or copper, not PVC.