Ecosmart 18kw is not heating.
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- Опубликовано: 15 ноя 2022
- sharing a video that I first thought was a heating element problem only, but then I found out that the flow sensor did not work in order as well. I replaced them both a heating element and the flow sensor. The water is hot now.
parts that I ordered website: www.smartparts.us/
Thanks for posting this video. I’m having the exact same problem with my water heater, and I suspected that it was the flow sensor but, you have confirmed it for me. Good job and thanks again!
UPDATE: I completely disassembled my water heater and found the first heater column was completely full of calcium chunks. When I was unscrewing the heating element from the first column, it was so plugged up the element twisted in two!
My son and I spent two hours trying to rinse the chunks out with a garden hose while trying to dislodge the broken off part of the heating element. There was even a large calcium chunk that seemed burned to the sidewall. I’m surprised that we didn’t break through the copper column because it’s so thin.
We finally got all of the calcium deposits out of the system, replaced the flow sensor and installed the new heating elements. Works perfectly!
I also installed a scale remover made by 3M. I do have slightly less flow but if it means eliminating the calcium deposits, it’s a small price to pay.
I think changing 3M filter periodically would help reduce calcium effectively. Good job Steve.
@@lindang8830 This is correct, and Steve you will want to buy a recirculating pump. This will help you get all that calcium build up out of your unit and this maintenance should be done annually. We sell the on our site are well.
Thank you, I appreciate this info!
Thank you, helped me replace flow-meter on my 27... but didn't fix my problem.... replace 1st Triac, first heating element, first thermostat, nothing fixed yet - so last thing is to replace control board... probably should have done that first when everything else checked out fine (no scaling, now power issues, etc...) guess I should be glad got 5yrs before issues... sure if I didn't put a whole-home filter and scale filter in-line I would have had scale issues.
Great video. I am going to give this a try...
We are having this problem right now so we found you...thank you for this! Went and got a voltage meter so wish us luck. I'll report back. This is our second one so this had better be easy to fix this time. The first one the elements burned out and it was a mess.
water filter change is important as well. needed to change regularly.
I think Lin is saying to service your tankless remove the scale. I could be wrong might not be saying that.
@@brizzx32 This is correct, you will want to buy a recirculating pump. This will help you get all that calcium build up out of your unit and this maintenance should be done annually. We sell the on our site are well. Use the pump + white vinegar for about an hour or 2 and it'll clean it all right up!
You should add a scale/lime filter ahead of you water heater with an expansion tank on the cold side. All placed ahead of the unit. Change the filter every 6 months and expansion tank about every 10 years. I have just changed all my elements and expansion tank for the first time since 2014. Water temp was set to 135 and only getting 106.
This is correct and very helpful, but annual or biannual maintenance is still recommended.
@@SmartPartsSolutions these units have nothing really to maintain. It's all electric, all wires, adding filters and changing them every 6 months is maintenance. Flushing maybe every 10 years.
@@darrisb1727 You are correct in some parts of your statement.
1. There is plenty reason why you would want to flush a unit. Lime and calcium buildup over the years can still occur with a filter. Not all filters are made equal and not all water is made equal, Prime example down here in South Florida our water has extremely high calcium level and even with some filtration systems calcium will build up.
2. Yes this is mostly electronics, but the main power source is in the water which is the heating element. Again, a filter and proper maintenance and changing of the filter is huge, but not always the answer. We can 100s of calls monthly with customers who have whole home filters and run into this issue.
I would never recommend to a customer to flush once every 10 years, but to each its own. These are my recommendations for those who have a filter. If you are on point and replace them ever 6 months, just running a vinegar flush every 2-3 years. For those that do not have a filter in line, be sure to do this annually at minimum for a long-lasting life for your unit.
I appreciate your response @darris and very smart of you to install this filter and be on top of it! Hope you have a great day.
@@SmartPartsSolutions I agree with you also or I would not have come to see the video as I DID want to know how to flush my unit. I just gave an estimate of 10 years because that was the first time I service my unit. I have been changing my filter every 6 month and the first time changing out the expansion tank.
Great video
Thanks for the visit
The biggest piece of sht ever.
They should have a recall on these units.
Very dangerous!!
Ive change the Flow Sensor twice and the again today.
Even after I flushed it, it went bad within a few months.
Something goes wrong and the water shoots up to about 300° melting the Flow Sensor.
I spoke to them, they have no idea what's happening.
They sent me a Senson and the Triacs.
The Triacs are nothing but three wires.
That shouldn't have anything to do with the problem.
I am going back to a regular WH. Never again will I get a Tankless.
The only good thing about a Tankless is the space one saves.
There's no instant water.
It takes the same amount of time to get to the faucet.
I changed the flow sensor that I bought it from Amazon. you must make sure the same flow sensor model, and put it sitting on the right spot. I changed last year until now has no problem any more. I agree with you regular heater tank is easier, but it's heavy and also has issues too if unlucky you bought the malfunction one. Each tank type has pro and con. What I understand tankless is when you dont use the water, the heater is not turning power on, no power consume. However, regular tank is different, the heater will turn on whenever water is below setting heat point whether you use or not, no power save.
@@lindang8830 wait till it goes bad again.
My last one didn't last two showers.
The Copper pipe got so hot that it open a hole in my 1/2 Cold PVC pipe, fill of water and 60° outside.
Unfortunately they were touching at one point throughout the house.
There's something else that makes the water shoot up to 300° then it melts the Flow Sensor
These Tankless units are subject to lightning damege (due to all the electronics inside). Also noticed flow rate alarms. You have to put a restricter in the line to prevent the unit from going into flow alarm. Also, the power requirement for the 18kw and above is ridiculous (2 x 40 amp breakers and higher)..
@@miguelperez-qk3no Good morning Miguel, if your flow sensor keeps going out and/or you notice that the impeller is damaged/deformed/melted, this is a sign of a bad triac cable. The steps to cure this issue is to find which element is staying on while there is no running water (Typically #1 heating element). @lindang8830 thank you for placing my companies name on this great video. I am the President of SmartParts.us. If you have any questions or issues with your unit, don't hesitate to ask.
If your measuring voltage always measure each leg to the ground on this other wise your not getting an accurate measurement due to lack of potential. You can measure across both phases as well but if one doesn’t isn’t live you will get an inconsistent reading just as you are describing. You need potential or it will be inaccurate.
Great point. thumbs up
@@lindang8830 The reason the second element was not getting its full potential (240v) was due to a lack of GPM flowing through the unit. You may have only had a sink/faucet on, and this is an enough GPM to activate the second element to 240v. If you would've opened up a shower head and a sink, i can bet you that the voltage would rise to the full potential. These units are on demand water heaters and only power up enough elements to match the flow rate and the desired temp.
I'm Proffessional Electrical Engineer working at Sri Lanka. In this cause, you dont need to replace full set like this. Only you need to found & replace NTC glass temprature sensor in the water flow sensor section. ( 50-100K ). Good Luck.
I do not believe this is correct, the steps taken by Lin here for this particular case was correct. You are talking about what i assume to be what is known as the Thermistors, these are the temperature sensors for most Rheem, Ecosmart, Richmond and Eemax units. We carry all of them as well, the thermistors are to be replaced when you test them and get hot water instantly. In this case Lin was not getting a proper response from the flow sensor itself.
Learn how to edit. Geesh
lol you should have 240 AC volts there not 37 volts. Your meter is blown or its in DC mode. You also have a connector disconnected on the right side of the control board they one right below the yellow and red thermister plugs. i can see it hanging. You have no idea what your doing with the electronics measuring both sides of 240 volts with one hand is a great way to get shocked.
You're not very bright are you
I understand your logic, but the multimeter he had was just fine. As I mentioned in a previous comment above this is an on-demand water heater and the voltage reading was actually proper. You would see if fluctuate to keep water temperature at the set desire with the GPMs flowing through the unit. If he were to turn on a second faucet or a shower head, then you would see full potential on all elements. @theborathon be kind. :)
Just put new 🪫
you shouldn't be working on these things since you obviously know nothing about it you did not even notice the element was blown you just changing parts till it works