Rinnai code 10, what causes it and how to fix it
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- Опубликовано: 29 май 2021
- Air is a very important part of combustion and without it you have none.
There is as you can see from this video many ways to block or keep the air from entering the combustion chamber.
Something in the fan or a bad fan is the easiest fix on a code 10 but after that is in my opinion one of the hardest to fix especially on a interior unit.
If you have a question or would like a Rinnai guy stickle please E-mail me at economyplmbg@aol.com
I hope you enjoy this video,
Mike
PLEASE USE A LICENSEB PLUMBER TRAINED IN LEVEL 3 RINNAI TRAINING.
FOLLOW ALL NATIONAL AND LOCAL PLUMBING AND GAS CODES AND TO FILE A PERMIT WITH YOUR LOCAL BUILDING DEPARTMENT. 
Хобби
I sit for hours in front of the computer and watch your movies. Amazing. Thank you for the time you invest in helping others.
I started maintaining my Rinnai heater thanks to your guidance.
Thank you so much for this.
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
Hello Mike,
I wanted to share my gratitude on the video. I had a code 10 and I was able to address the issues of debris that were stuck in the blower wheel. Times are tough right now, but I am so appreciative how you explained everything in detail so that I could be able to assist my family in the repairs. I will recommend your channels to my friends,family, coworkers, and anyone that is considering a tankless water heater to follow your channel. Thank you again for your kindness and expertise. 😊
Hey Mike, I also wanna say thank you I remember paying like seven 800 bucks for someone to clean it out last time with two guys but this time I was able to pop off the front get those three screws off the fan check it. It was true, but there was a bunch of leaves and crap in there so Blew that up put it back blew out the exhaust pipe and we’re good as new. Thank you so much for your help. Appreciate the video. Took me about 15 to 20 minutes from start to finish.
Glad it helped
Thanks for the help over the phone today on combination boilers,
And pointing me in the right direction on the piping Mike is a wealth of knowledge
Mike advised me a third time over phone when I had a question regarding
gas pipe sizing for my Rinnai .. It was very detailed and informative.
Thanks Mike.. You are among the few popular youtubers who walk the talk
of helping out their subscribers.. Much appreciated !! :)
Thanks for sharing this information. I used it to check (and clean) the fan…solving the hot water problem in the house we just purchased. I’m very grateful that you took time to make and share this video.
I am a retired commercial HVAC&R guy, I have worked for major HVAC companies for 46 years. I own a Rennai 94i water (1st) heater.. I watch your videos to understand any problems I may have… found lizard in my fan cage which caused A vibration/ungodly noise which you talked about..thank you for making GREAT videos. I have had many instructors and you are in the top three for training! Thanks again!
Wow This is the one of most details and extremely helpful uTube video.
About Code 10 Rinnai should Hired Mike for teaching thousand folks for tankless water heater. I’m not a plumber but watching Mike in all his Episode with different Situation make me to learn something new each time. Bless this guy!!
Also I’ll contacts Rinnai to recommend some Mike’s troubleshooting post for there customers to Streamline the basic troubleshooting task.
I am not technician but enjoyed your content a lot! Congratulations!!
Michael thank you for the invaluable information you’re god sent!
Very well explained thank you for these lessons!
Hi Mike. I am very appreciative of your content. it has helped me tremendously I used to hate these tankless water heaters now I don't mind them. Hope you will continue helping everyone 🙂 you take care
Mike you really helped me out tonight. Watched your video, pulled the fan and cleaned out everything that I could with compressed air and tweezers and she's humming along better than I can remember. Thank You! Thank You! Thank You!
Great video. Very, very helpful. Thank you!
Hi Mike, Thank you for taking the time to speak with me today about the Rinnai Condensing Boilers. I live in Upstate NY and will be replacing a 1955 EFM 520 Coal Stoker boiler with an LP gas Rinnai boiler only. The information you provided me will help me with a safe and dependable system for years to come.
Randy
Mike, you are the BEST. You have saved us thousand$ and I always come to your videos first! Thank you so much! 😁
I appreciate the useful suggestion to first check the fan. Mine was full of bugs. Thanks!
Hi Mike, Thank you so much for sharing your expert knowledge of Tankless Heaters. The videos you have posted for the Rinnai Tankless Heaters have been a lifesaver for this retired couple in East Texas. We had a Rinnai RL94i installed 10 years ago when we bought and fully renovated a Tudor style home built in 1940. It has worked flawlessly for the last 10 years (without service - my installer never told me we needed to do annually). About a month ago, we got an error code 10 (and cold water). I called the plumber who installed it - short story, he sent a couple of guys who were clueless as to how to fix it (and not certified to even try) and their only comments were "this is a new technology and we would have to be certified to open it up???" After watching your detailed and helpful videos on replacing the fan on the Rinnai Tankless Water Heater, I grabbed a screwdriver and followed step-by-step the whole process (and the many tips along the way were really helpful) and I didn't need to replace the fan - just clean it of several moth body parts and ?!?. Reassembled per your directions and in less than an hour - Voila - IT WORKS!!! The wife and daughter think I am a genius (thanks to you) and I am sure we saved a lot of money (>$700). You are one of the reasons I love youtube!!! Thanks, again, for sharing your knowledge and for being there when I needed you - from a devoted fan!!
Thanks for the video, I was able to clear up the code on my water heater. It took me a couple tries but at least I didn't have to remove the intake/ exhaust vent. I was able to remove and reinstall the plates on the inside and Clean up the combustion chamber. That did the job, I also cleaned up the squirrel cage and vacuumed out the intake box. I used a leaf blower to clear what I couldn't reach with my vaccuum.
Thank you so much! Just pulled the blower and cleaned out a bunch of bugs! You just save me a bunch of money! I also built a circular screen to go around the intake and exhaust that does not impede airflow so this never happens again. I also appreciate your woodworking channel. Now I can take the saved money and buy a new woodworking tool…🙄
Thank you for the video. Mine was full of moths and was kicking the code every time it was on. Saved me money.
Excellent videos , Thanks
Excellent video, thank you!!!
Thank you! Excellent information! Rinnai should be slipping you some serious "hush-money/brownie-points"... to stop your embarrassing them for their pathetic lacking in this critical area of customer support!
Yeah man, what an awesome video. I had a code 10 today. 2014 r94 I think, never been descaled, but was running. I quickly looked at this video you so graciously bestowed for us but couldn't get it going in time and our company is seeing some of these which has my attention. I did get externally for anything but didn't know how to take apart to examine. But wow, tytyty. You rock man. Definitely want a sticker. I'm email ya that stuff, but ty so much.
Thanks man! The video really helped
Thank you for the video! There was a dead lizard and a couple of dead frogs in the fan of our water heater. Your video helped me fix it!
Glad it helped
Thank you. A two-year issue fixed! Mud dabbbers are fockers.
I just wanted to let you know how Awesome you are .
I have been in the Hvac business and I have never seen someone explain how to take care of problems on a water heater like this.
Thank you so much Sr.
Thank you very much
Hi Mike, love your videos. I'm getting a code 61, and have replaced the harness but am still getting a code 61 and no hot water. It is a Rinnai R75 Lsi
I do also want to note that I got the Code 10 in a cold spell. The cause? A frozen condensate line (that goes to exterior). I bypassed the condensate into a bucket temporarily until temperatures get above freezing temps.
Appreciate your RUclips videos.
Thanks
I just had that on mine
@@kevindejager6045 having a cold spell here, just checked it and the condensate was frozen again. Undid the condensate line and a whole bunch of water poured out. I guess this is just something I'll have to bear in mind every year in the winter.
Thank you!
Hiya Mike, I have an interesting one, I have a coaxial duct (vertical through roof) metal inner and plastic outer, condensate drain on bottom duct. I installed this unit in 2006 and has worked great till about 6 months ago, making noise, code 12, & code 10. Come to find out the 45-degree elbows are cast aluminum, and the straight sections are SS. The dissimilar metals caused the elbows to corrode and disintegrate (or maybe just the heat), guess where all that fuzzy shit landed? You guessed it, right in that ring of holes in the top of the unit. Changed the elbows and cleaned it out, working fine again. Thanks for the great video.
Good info-however my issue was with code (parameter) settings -was set for too short a a distance for crossover recirc. Manual shows how to go into settings, pick the correct one. I think the older ones had dip switches; now you have to press “a” on the control panel for one sec to get into settings.
thank you so much for the Great video, this is what i am looking for ,
Glad it helped.
Thank you very much for these very helpful videos. You could be a school teacher..
Thanks so much. Our thankless makes a loud roaring noise when starting up. Will check for blockage
Thanks for contenr
A video on how to take apart the concentric vent pipe and clean it would be very helpful!
Hey mike, I"m not getting a code 10 on my Rinnai 75IN but the water does go cold after a few minutes with high flow to the shower head without an aerator, or if I have 2 or 3 faucets running at the same time. Its a new unit but its been sitting around unused for a couple of years, I bought it back in 2019. Cleaned out the fan, found small chunks of styrofoam, For some reason there was scaling when I removed the water servo valve solenoid (which makes me think that Rinnai tests these units before they leave the factory and maybe some water is left in the unit) and that little rubber thing around the shaft was stuck in the housing so I cleaned that up and now moves the rubber thing moves fine. I removed the water turbine valve blowing in it and made that whistle sound so to me that checked out. I reviewed your video "Removal and cleaning of Rinnai's water flow turbine" and strange, the water turbine valve did have the fiber washer but didn't have a retaining clip. My thinking is that maybe the be high temperature build up in the vent triggering maybe some thermister. I"m not sure which direction to go from here. Any help would be appreciated.
I get moths in my fan here in Colorado, in the beginning of May. The fan vibrates and I get code 10's. These moths must get in the annular intake vent termination and eventually into the squirrel cage vanes.
They also crawl in the center exhaust when it's off and their toasted corpses build up in that circular perforated vent on top of the heater. I guess that causes code 10's because of how it limits blower air flow and makes it vibrate? Do they make a vent screen that covers the intake and the exhaust? I only see exhaust ones.
Hi Sir,
I did watch your videos about Rinnai code 10 and it helps me a lots
I did replace my fan and clean burners and these did not fix my problem but when I change dip switch 2 and 3 from off -off to on- off , this fix my problem
So I need to make sure that this change is safe.
Can you please help me to see if this safe or not?
I do have this model Rinnai RL75iN Natural Gas Tankless Hot Water Heater, 7.5 GPM
I do live at Pittsford NY area
my rinnai is saying code 10 hot water stops after 3 minutes. if i shut it off for a minute and turn it back on it will warm up again. i tried to follow your instructions, but my fan is sideways so i don't know how to take it off to clean out what i presume is bugs in it ...please help!
Hello Mike, Thanks for all the info and demos you put out, with that said, I have a Rinnai R98LSeASMEN exterior, looks very much like the one you have there, when we turn on the hot water on it runs for about 3 minutes or so, then it stops, no noise from the Rinnai and no code on the keypad, just the little read light turns off, i'll have to turn off the cold completely and then it might warm up after a minute or so, if not i turn them both off, then just the hot water on, it will take a minute or two to get the hot water on again, then I'll have to hurry and finish my shower, I still have exhaust coming out when it turns on, just not sure if its partially clogged, I'll check the fan and hole vents and see if it blows harder and see if it stays on. Thanks again
If you use another shower does it still do it? If so there is dirt in the water servo valve or the thermistors are dirty. It the other shower works good you have a bad shower Cartagena. Mike
Update: both showers and all sinks loose hot water after a few minutes, like i said no codes, I took the fan out and the igniter and cleaned off with my fingers, wasn't dirty to me, with the igniter out i looked at the burner and all looks clean, wasn't dirty to me. took off the fan and seems to be true and spinning good, with everything out i got my compressor and blew out the complete system, just dust parasiticals came out if anything, I havent got the gasket kit so i did not remove the burner cover etc. I put it all back together and turned on the hot water inside, same thing, no hot water after a few minutets, but while cleaning it out i noticed something, in the exhaust opening there are 6 white insulation tabs i guess on the upper side, thats what they look like to me, the 2 on the left are kinda tan the other 4 are fairly white, when the hot water was on inside and the tank-less working the exhaust on the left side and towards the middle was hot, but on the right side there was exhaust air coming out but it was not hot, it was cool, i could put my hand in front of it about and inch away and it was cool. not even warm, I think this will give you the best clue, so air is flowing, and heat is starting up just not all the way, do i need a heat exchange? do i need to order the gasket set before i remove the cover to investigate? might the gasket be ok, it has about 17 screws on the cover.
Hi Mike, thank you so much for the video!! I think I have just about tried everything for my code 10 and still haven't solved it. So I could use your help! I have a RL75i interior mount with side wall vent (with no other vents or obstructions anywhere nearby) and I have almost always code 10s but have an 11 and 14 in the memory. The unit runs for about 5-10 min then the shower pressure will drop as the hot water stops flowing or it will turn cold. When I am at the unit, the system either appears to start with flame then shut off and restart repeatedly or when it gets cold I see a code 10 with continuous beeping. Thus far I have removed the vent pipe and found dirt dobber nests which I have cleaned, found on on the top of the coil, a gecko and bugs inside the fan which I purchased a new one along with the thermistor which was quite dirty. I pulled the burner and cleaned it with compressed air, blew out the coil from below and back through the air intake from the fan hole. I also replaced the gas manifold, view plate, electrode and flame rods. Almost forgot, I also flushed the system and the water filter was very clean. When I started the burner flame height was low and now is full height. What am I missing here? Please help!
Thank you in advance.
I'm a woman hittin' 70 and live in a dilapidated cabin for low rent. My only furnace heat is a Rinnai wall unit that vents through the same concentric ducts you describe for this water heater, and I've always been diligent about keeping the vent outside clear of debris or snow dump from the metal roof. The furnace ran like a top ... until last winter. Part of the floor is rotted in another closed off area and I get mice, up from the crawl space. I can hear them moving through the furnace case to get into the kitchen dead of night, where I hear the satisfying SNAP of a rat trap in the dark and go back to sleep.
Last mid-winter, it made terrible squealing but still put out decent heat. Outside, for the first time ever, the exhaust had an ice dam in the lower half, something that shouldn't happen if hot air was blowing out regularly like before so I knew this issue was probably oxygen starvation of the flame combined with some kind of duct blockage. I asked the landlord (much older than me) to have it checked at my expense, but where we live no one in the area would agree to work on this style of furnace so I knew it was on borrowed time, and if anything went wrong, I'd be the one to fix it. I got the manual off the internet but even from installation diagrams and error code charts, I wasn't sure what I was looking at to fix anything, or even do any seasonal maintenance other than yearly cleaning of the two screens on top. All those blow-out diagrams look congested and complicated. Honestly, I don't think this furnace has seen ANY seasonal maintenance cleaning since installation 2014 and I was afraid to take the cover off not knowing what I was doing. Then again, I was still getting heat so I hoped for the best. But the squealing continued, and the heat kept decreasing, and had to run more often because of it. Then one night there was a code (maybe 10, maybe 11 I forget) but then it cleared by itself and ran anyway. But it got worse.
I couldn't seem to wake up or stay awake. I was coughing all the time without any flu symptoms, like I was choking on ash. n fact, I began to notice a fine white ash on furniture , the floor and on most everything. I used to work dialysis for 20 years so I recognized signs of impending kidney failure. And little things ... like my hair falling out, dizzy when I stood up, my skin parching and other things. I figured I was just getting old. My landlord was in the hospital with a triple bypass, so I had no one to ask.
One night, I saw myself standing in the dark at the foot of the bed - I sleep 3 feet in front of the furnace - and I was screaming at myself, "WAKE UP! WAKE UP!" muffled like the other me was standing behind a glass divider. I was in that deep sleep that's like being underwater and you have to swim up to wake up, but I figured I sounded pretty earnest about it, so I made myself make the journey to consciousness. Of course, the other me disappeared and there was nothing in the cabin making any noise, including the furnace that was green light between cycles. I sat up on the edge of the bed wobbling like I was sitting on the side of a boat. Then ... it hit me. CARBON MONOXIDE. It all made sense ... the cough, the kidney failure, the hair loss, and all the other things I didn't mention. I launched into the room without looking for lights and fell into things getting to the doors and windows to open them, ran a couple fans propped the door wide up front and back and nearly froze to death in a down sleeping bag waiting to get fresh air throughout.
So ... as MONK would say ... "here's what happened...". The CO build up was gradual over 3 months, which is why I thought there wasn't a problem. The CO coming from the furnace was in a layer above the floor. If I had a cat or dog, I'd notice it because the animals would start to get up on furniture, or the bird would die. Because the cabin was closed up to conserve heat, eventually, the floor CO level got to bed-level and that's when the coughing started ... but only after I went to bed, not when I was reading or watching TV.
People asked me why I didn't have a monoxide detector. It's simple. The furnace WAS working fine for 5 years, nothing had changed until the bedtime coughing, and there are only two outlets in here and they are already sparingly metered to lamps and a TV and a fridge. But after I aired out the cabin, EVERYTHING returned to normal within a couple months.
Granted, you're talking about a water heater, but I recognize furnace repair symptoms, and I have always thought there is probably mouse nesting debris or cadavers inside the furnace ductwork somewhere. Just this week Autumn, it kicked in, no codes, but I notice it isn't putting out the heat it once did (and NEEDS to) tho I can hear the familiar sequence clicks: Thermostat, fan revving up, pilot ignition, flame roar, flame off, green light and fan count down. I can't wait any longer. I've got to take the front panel off and get into it to poke around and vacuum, dispose of the bodies if there are any, and do it before furnace fire up is a regular thing during Michigan's winter. Thanks for explaining the exhaust thing about the lizards, and I found the vent hole pattern thing interesting so I'll check there, too when I might of just swept if you hadn't said anything.
I would totally LOVE a HW2 video on yearly maintenance on Rinnai furnance/water heater, that's user-friendly, detailed and works from start to finish. As users, we need more than a manual that emphasizes EVERYTHING, instead of highlights the things we can do on the fly.
Hello Mike, I have a Rinnai V75 indoor unit and when using the shower I am getting a code 10. When I shut the shower off and turn it back on the unit starts to work again for appx 2 minutes at a time. Any assistance/advice you can provide will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I have a Rinnai R75LSi that is rented from a large Canadian HVAC company since 2011 and it has started to get the error 10 sometimes when someone takes a shower at night. So far, I've been pressing the ON/OFF button to restart the unit to get the hot water flowing again. I've checked the outside intake and didn't see any debris inside so it is likely some stuff in the blower fan inside the unit.
Would you recommend to DIY take the cover off to get to the blower fan to clean it even though it is a rental unit to save cost on a certified HVAC technician to do this?
Also, safe enough to access even if I don't have the gas turned off next to the unit but power has been unplugged to it?
My fan was 1/2 plugged up with dead moths. I put metal screen on top of the unit to prevent it again in the future.
Thanks for your help Mike. I wonder why Rinnai didn't incorporate an air filter on the intake? Seems a lot of problems could be avoided
Glad I could help
Hi Mike I think I may have gotten one wire mismatched when reconnecting wires after fan cleaning, everything started when I connected. Hot water ran longer than usual then whole system shut off but not breaker. Im wondering if I can just fix wiring and it will come back on. It is a bit hard to read the wiring diagram on my cover. Do you have any detailed pics of how the wiring colors go? Mine look exactly like your examples, its an RL04
TLDR: [Code 10] My vent line was almost completely full of condensed water, so I opened the drain line that's capped, drained all the water, & the unit works fine again.
Hey guys, had an Error 10 on my unit just yesterday (Model# RSC199iN - Rinnai Tankless "indoor" unit, installed inside my garage). I looked all over the internet & came across a plethora of possible causes & fixes; including this video. My unit is less than a yr old & I don't have problems with insects getting into places they don't belong, nor does the system share a vent/intake with my furnace. That said, I called my installer & he told me a possible cause was too low of gas psi entering the unit, which made sense due to the fact that here in the PNW we had a freak winter storm producing balmy temps of about 8. Because of the cold temps & my neighborhood is ran off nat. gas, the high demand could've dropped the supply psi to a point where ignition couldn't be achieved. I tested that by shutting down my running furnace & nat. gas fireplace - no luck. I noticed that when the unit attempted to fire, there was a bubbling sound within a black plastic manifold, that connects to the outer vent PVC (like if you were to blow in a straw in a glass of liquid). Since I wasn't present on 1st install/setup, I had no idea if this was normal or not, but I fixated on that noise. Though the unit has a drip/condensate line already, I noticed on the bottom of the unit, across from the already in-place drip line, there's another capped line that has a stamped/extruded "DRAIN" on it. I opened it up, & a *ton of water came out. Restarted the unit & it's working perfectly again. My installer said it's the 1st he's ever heard of such, & no write-up/video I came across mentioned trying that either. So if you hear percolating water in your unit on startup, try the drain line. Be sure to put a pale under it, as there was quite a bit of liquid in there. That caused the fan to run extremely hard to try to vent through that much water, & luckily the safety mechanisms of the unit caught the issue & shut it down before frying my fan. Hope this helps!
Hi Mike. Our heater is giving us the code 10. The water heater works but sometimes will give us the error 10, 2 minutes to 20 minutes after demanded. If we shut off the water and turn it back on it will work for a bit. I watched you video and checked the exhaust vent for blockage. We couldn’t see anything and decided to hire a plumber to do check the unit. The tech came out and said it the exhaust isn’t blocked the the unit needs to be replaced as it is 10 years old. I told him we watched your videos and wanted him to check the fan. He told us he is a certified Rinnai technician and he knows that if it isn’t being blocked then the only option is to replace.
He could be correct or he could be untrained on tankless like most plumbers, if you haven't ever had maintenance done on the unit then it would make sense to go ahead and change it at this point instead of diagnosing and replacing a bunch of components but if you've had it regularly maintenance I highly doubt you would need to throw it away, the heat exchanger just needs to be blown out with compressed air, there's likely a lot of debris inside of the burner plates that have fell down from the heat exchanger in the debris is a byproduct of the flame and it builds up on the fins in the heat exchanger. And that's the difference between somebody who knows what they're doing versus someone who doesn't when it comes to maintenancing these units. If they're not removing the gas manifold and exposing the burner plates and blowing all that stuff out then they're not doing it right and I would not trust them to work on my unit at all. Hopefully someone's came out by now that figured that out, I went to a mini of calls on these units where it had a very very minor problem light blowing out the combustion chamber but multiple plumbers before me that's all the customer it needs to be replaced, you only have to replace it when the maintenance has been neglected and components are overall not in good shape, if you keep up maintenance on it components can be replaced individually as they go bad which isn't very often
HI micheal. Need your help. My Rinnai heater no code on display, comes on and cuts out. Fan motor not coming on.
🎊 🎉Thank you!
Greetings Mike, thank you so much for doing these videos. We have a RinnaiRL75 that is used for our furnace and water heating. We think it was installed in 2013, 4 years before we bought our house and doubt that it was maintained properly. It does not provide hot water for a shower reliably. Lots of, "Code 10," and usually need to reset it during 7 of 10 showers. We're so tired of it that we thought we should just start with a new one. Our house has 2 bathrooms, 3 bedrooms and is 1679 square feet. We use propane for heating. Which model would you recommend that we replace our RinnaiRL75 with? We want to make sure it's big enough, but would love to avoid putting more holes in the house. Much appreciated. -Lori
Call me at +19042385349 today after 5pm eastern time and I will go over it with you
Mike
What if it has thrown a code 10 randomly from when it was installed new?
Recirculating pump for rinnai
is there a list of error code ?
We have two tankless Rinnai tankless water heaters. House is not old. We have a constant beep with a 10 code. We have 3 different plumbers out and no solution. The one recently descaled and cleaned again and also took it apart and couldnt find any problem. Is advising we have a roofer come out and go to roof to vent and clean out from that angle because he doesnt see any obstruction in the attic side. Have you ever heard this before. BTW when you shut the unit down and turn it back on the beeping stops momentarily but starts right back up again.
Code 10 is an air problem. Do you have the code 10 on one or both unites? This is what needs to be checked. First the fan inside the unit it’s says the United are roof vented, the vent will have to be removed so the Teco. can see if there is any obstructions inside the top air intake of the unit. Third the vent itself. Bugs vet love to get into the fresh air side of the vent and make a home. Please send pictures of the vent to me at my e mail address economyplmbg@aol.com and I will see if the venting is correct. Mike
@@ThatTanklessGuy The code is only on one of the units. We so appreciate you sending message back. We are in Costa Rica right now when we get back we will get the pictures. The plumber that was just out said we would need to a roofer and check for obstruction at the part that comes off the roof. Do you have an opinion on that? Thanks so much!!
Doesn't Rinnai make an air filter for these? Seems like it would make maintenance much easier.
What would cause a brand new RUR unit to throw a 63 ONLY when starting the recirc mode? No codes otherwise…no issues with hot water. Been doing it Every day for weeks now. No codes when calling for hot water usage.
Hard to think there is still air in the lines. It is new construction, so might be junk in a filter?
The house has a dedicated recirc line
Thanks
Call me at +19042385349 today around 5pm eastern time and I will go over it with you Mike
Off topic: We have a new, external tank with built in recirc pump set to run on timer for 4 hours daily. A tub faucet in the master bath and a sink faucet in hall bath drip maybe 3-4 drops over the 4 hour recirc window. Plumber came back and added an expansion tank; problem persists. Any ideas (please).
Water is moving and only being heated a little so expansion is not the problem. If a faucet is closed and water bypasses the washer or cartage it’s a problem with the faucet
@@ThatTanklessGuy Awesome… thank you. Have a great week.
Check parameter settings…
What about the RUR160IP it seems mine errors out with code 10 and won't clear until I clear the condensate trap. Not sure what is going on.
Is your drain line flowing good and do you have a vent on the drain line?
We live in Los Angeles, CA. Is there anyone you can recommend to service our 2017 Rinnai model RUR98e? I removed the cover and didn't feel comfortable in disconnecting the wires to get at the fan. Thanks.
Paul and i, they have authorized contractors in your area
Call rinnai**
Hi mike I have a question for you can you help me to tell me way my renai smells to much combustion?
Send me photos of the unit include the venting. My e mail is economyplmbg@aol.com
I'm sorry- I do not see your email info anywhere - would you post it for me - thank you!
Mike here is a mystery. RL94 in a restaurant. Get error code 10 sometimes, but appears to reset itself. Here is the real mystery. Intermittently the hot water stops flowing completely. No hot water coming out of faucets. Meanwhile Cold water tap is working fine. Blocked flue should cause water to come out of tap as cold, correct? But not restrict water flow. After 10-20 minutes the water flow comes back and the water heater works again. Makes no sense. Hester is about 10 years old and this just started. Suggestions?
10 bugs me
0:29
Not sure if the piping is correct underneath but I have used your videos many times and found them excellent I have changed the servo the turbine the sensors and clean the fan all with no success. I get nothing but cold water after about two or three minutes and it stays that way never getting above 97 to 98 degrees at all faucets and tubs
Code 10 on an older unit = you’re getting a new one
😂 💯
My question is why is there not a filter for the combustion air intake? I think that’s such a shit design
My question is why is there not a filter for the combustion air intake? I think that’s such a shit design