For any normal DD situations, stock tuning works. But for people who like some spirited sprints, a tune is the best way to go. Take care of maintenance and the car will be fine 99 times out of 100.
all that wear and tear happens from dogging out the car so often . it doesnt matter if you have 1000 more Hp if you drive it normal and not like a race car the parts will basically last like they would normally rom the factory. If you are not regularly dropping the clutch on a regular basis and taking to the drag strip then reliability will not be a problem.
Your exactly right. This is especially true for performance cars. I have owned quite a few cars for someone my age and the reliable car I ever owned was a 2012 Dodge Charger RT. Look at the reliability ratings for those things. I was still on original suspension, transmission, and brakes.
lol this video really resonated with me. It was like listening to my life experience in my MK6 GTI. I bought my GTI brand new and it was my 3rd manual. I'd like to say I'm pro and don't drive like an a$$hat. Especially buying a new car, I BABIED the clutch and how I drove it. Basically, went APR stage 1 for just easy power with no additional mods. Was fun for about a year then I wanted moar. Went APR Stage 2 and my turbo blew about 10 months later. The car only had around 33k miles when it blew mind you so I was kind of pissed that a fairly fresh turbo when my car was only like 3-4 years old ended up blowing. VW quoted me 2k for a new K03 turbo and recommended I just upgrade to K04 at that time. The K04 brand new aftermarket was cheaper so why not? That gave me the push to actually go through with it. The part I forgot that ended up adding up like crazy in costs was obviously labor to install the K04, then upgrade to the APR Stage2+ K04 tune, AND get the Southbend Stage 3 drop-in disc since stock couldn't handle it anymore. + the labor for the drop-inc disc install. All of that really added up. When all was said and done I probably dropped close to 5k. In the end however I felt unstoppable. Car felt strong, pulled hard, and gave me zero issues. I had done just about every mod to the car and it was a perfect daily driver with plenty of power to back it. I guess feeling my car had peaked in my eyes to everything I ever wanted to do, I traded it in and now I'm on a MK7 GTI completely stock, fresh again. 1 owner, 25k miles. Time to start the build over again. Only this time, I really hope my turbo doesn't blow so soon if I do ever actually go stage 2 :)
It's engine torque that fries clutches and breaks driveline components such as CV joints, half shafts and transmissions. The APR Stage 2 tune increased engine torque by more than 50%, which is an awful lot to ask from a stock clutch. APR's new "plus" tune is a low torque package that carries a warranty from APR that equals the factory warranty. The "plus" tune increase engine torque by approximately 21%. APR offers no warranty on any higher levels of tune, including Stage 1 and Stage 2. I think this reality strongly hints at the stock clutch's limitations. I am a senior design engineer with two registered patents and a third pending. I grew up around cars and have been reading similar issues for many decades. Some may feel that adds credibility to my theory here, while others may not. ALSO: Per APR's own website, they take all their measured HP and Torque values AT THE WHEELS, using a chassis dyno. As their site explains, crankshaft values are estimates. Furthermore and despite this guy's claim, VW/Audi make significant engine upgrades for relatively modest increased in power (and, of course torque) output. Per Arin at APR: (This is posted on a variety of VW enthusiast sites): Cylinder head (made from a different alloy compared to other engines in this module because of higher thermal stress) • Exhaust valves (hollow, higher Ni content, nitrided) • Exhaust valve seat rings (improved temperature stability and wear resistance) • Exhaust camshaft (adapted valve timings) • Compression ratio 9.3:1 with different pistons • Piston cooling jets (higher flow rate) • High pressure injectors (even higher flow rate) • Exhaust turbocharger • Charge pressures of up to 17.4 PSI (1.2 bar) • High performance main radiator with 1-2 auxiliary radiators (depending on country specifications) • Additional acoustic modifications have been made in order to achieve a sporty sound - use of a sound actuator (for the occupant cell) and active exhaust flaps in the exhaust system I also know the R uses superior bearings throughout the engine. Even the mid level (e.g. 252 HP in audi A6) engines contain many internal upgrades over the GTI's version of the EA888. Vw/Audi wouldn't go to this trouble if it weren't necessary in preserving long term durability. Either go with a "low torque tune" such as APR's "Plus" or with a plug and play device such as Neuspeed's. Anything more aggressive is likely to cause problems as the miles pile on.
I am not saying that. What you choose to do to your car is your business. I chose the Neuspeed power module for my new 2018 GTI Autobahn 6 speed manual and love it: www.neuspeed.com/641015-neuspeed-power-module.html The difference in power output is downright amazing, it doesn't mess with factory's "computer" and leaves no trace of ever being used once its removed.
harddrivin1le - See my thing w the power module is that it alters signals in your ecu so it tells the computer to run more boost... it’s basically just a sprint booster. With that being said, do you know if neuspeeds power module adjust to the fuel and ignition timing for the added boost applied to stock? I was gonna go w that too until Dinan came out w the dinantronics power module..
I guess I don’t understand what you mean by “sprint booster.” The Neuspeed module makes added power for as long as the driver wishes by intercepting and conditioning boost and manifold pressure sensor signals that are subsequently read by the ECU. I suspect the ECU compensates for timing and fuel delivery (and of course boost) based on those altered signals, given the engine would otherwise run terribly. Obviously more fuel is being delivered because the engine is clearly making a lot more power (which requires more fuel). I suggest you contact Neuspeed if you want more specific information. My module’s been installed for 600+ miles. The car drives as though VW engineered and manufactured it that way, with the exception that it makes more power throughout the RPM range. There isn’t a single “hiccup” or anomaly anywhere. In other words, it literally seems “perfect.” That’s high praise from a perfectionist engineer like me. Note: I exclusively use 93 octane Shell V Power and also use this aftermarket air filter element (in the stock air box), which I installed just prior to the Neuspeed module: www.ecstuning.com/b-afe-parts/magnum-flow-air-filter/31-10254~afe/?gclid=CjwKCAjwxZnYBRAVEiwANMTRX8Y4I7mV0bTbd0Piw_l5uWAcvLktEhq3RugIZNoA-fD38oOMIwyZbBoCqYcQAvD_BwE
Stage 1 is a totally safe tune if you drive the car with respect. Lokey Vw in Clearwater Florida offers an apr stage 1 tune when you purchase a brand new one. The dealership wouldn’t offer that in the event it would dog the car out. Now they may install other upgrades on the car I am unaware of but I highly doubt it because the cost is about $700 more dollars for the upgrade.
I have an APR tune. Stage 2. No problems whatsoever. These cars are very durable. The only thing I recommend is upgrade the clutch. Possibly use a Clutch Masters or South Bend clutch. Do a fuel system cleaner every 20k miles. Which cleans out the carbon deposits.
I have a custom Stage 1 ECU tune. And the car was tested on Dyno as well as on road. So my car went from 100 hp to 145 hp and from 170 nm of torque to 233. And even though I am a little worried, I did some research and found out that the clutch/gear box in my car is rated for max 240 nm of torque. So that already showed me how serious my tuner is. They also told me they respect the manufacturer tolerances. So in theory, my tune is safe and my car should break like any other car.
While it may be possible to estimate an approximate life span for Clutch, warranty coverage is generally limited to catastrophic failure due to manufacture. It can be said 911s and WRXs had a reputation of "weird take up" and I've met multiple people that needed a replacement at 25,000 miles. And yet there are people that double that. As far warranty goes dealers will look for criteria of some sort to be met: 1. Clutch wasn't underwater (absorbed water then failed). 2. No visible hotspots on flywheel (indicating racing slippage take offs). And more that dont come to mind. Otherwise clutch is simply a wear component.
Pity you guys don't get the VW scirocco r like us in Australia :) - VW Scirocco R Stage 2+ --- insta - kazas awesome videos man keep them coming :) any cosmetic mods coming?
I would kill for a scirocco..they're gorgeous...thanks! but I'm thinking wheels front lip, R side skirts, rear diffuser stuff like that! Maybe a wrap in the future!
Just for information, according to VW, I fried my rings on my '14 GTI after going REVO stage 2, now it burns oil and VW won't fix it. I gave that car to my wife since she only drives like 3 miles to work and now I drive a mostly stock (except lowering springs) '16 Audi S3.
I have a stage 2 APR tune on my mk6 GLI. It's on its second stock clutch. Idk how but VW replaced both of them under warranty even with the tune. The second clutch slips in 6th gear but I drive it normally now to save it as long as I can and it's still holding up the same. Engine is still in excellent shape. Not to mention I walked 2 STIs and a focus RS. They were in shock.
Your Motor and clutch should hold up fine! its the same engine in the R (EA888)! If you beat on it or drag race a lot you will have issues eventually (engine and clutch). if you're canyon carving and spirited driving like me, no issues. I have a GTI MK7 with APR stage 1, APR intake and catback exhaust. Have had no issues in my 2 years of owning it thus far. Only issue for me is that I have gone through 2 sets of Mich Pilots :)
You've increased engine output torque by more than 40%. Realizing its torque that fries clutches and breaks parts, there's no way you won't experience premature clutch wear as the miles roll up. Half-shaft, CV joint and transaxle issues are also distinct possibilities. APR is now offering a tune they fully warranty to match the factory warranty coverage. It's called "APR plus." Go to their website and check it out. They're able to do that because it's limits engine torque gains to 21% (as measured at the wheels on the chassis dyno): www.goapr.com/products/ecu_upgrade_20tsi_gen3_mqb.html Be sure to select MK7 GTI, "Plus" tune and output at the wheels. As their site specifically states, actual measurements are taken at the wheels on a chassis dyno, meaning "crankshaft" figures are estimates at best.
I'm honestly considering the APR+ tune but I'm sure there is some stipulations, like you must change your oil more often than the service manual says. I gotta read more into it because you don't want APR to deny you, after VW does. Also does it match the 72k warranty or just 36k.
i just had a new clutch fitted and about to get a stage 1 thanks for vid i done pcv new wheels new tyres new front bumper new lights r8 coils new plugs engine flush changed to performace oil as other was to lean for the gti rear seals done heck i been spending non stop way i see it something will go wrong so may as well go for it if you see me driving i been wizzing past you or broke down on side of road vw for life
Getting a 2017 eventually. so many to choose from and they have a manual, nice! I had a 1987 Golf years ago. Not fast but fun to drive and great in the snow. I got another hatchback (Mazda 3 slow as hell) now and love it. Check engine light won't go away and its hard to diagnose. Oxygen sensor, maf sensor, wiring harness was messed up so i replaced it. Damn light went back on and performance went back to shit. Got into an accident recently and the repairs are beyond keeping the car. So i'm ready to say bye and hello to VW once again!!!! I was brainstorming on what to get and a GTI fits everything pretty much. I like all the mod options for sure. I want a fast car again, its been too long.
I have an APR intake APR diverter valve APR stage 1 with the four program tune APR 3 in exhaust forge side mount intercooler forge inlet pipe h&r lowering springs adjustable dampener the car has had all these on it since the day it was born it's a 2005 GTI 1.8 t and it has a hundred and forty-three thousand miles on it I've never had any serious issues always done the required maintenance timing anything that needed to be done and never had any issues with warranty work or anyting
Justin Sanchez If you look at it closer, you will realize that it doesn’t matter. For example: • DSG transmission upgrade cost $2500 more than the 6spd manual, when buying new. • If you have DSG, if you tune the car, you’ll also want to get the DSG tune, which will cost at least another $400+ on top of the Stage tune you are already paying for, depending on the company you go with for your tuning. • DSG stock will hold more power without slipping, compared to the 6spd manual transmission. • An aftermarket clutch for the 6 speed manual, will cost you anywhere from $500 (if reusing your dual mass flywheel) to $1900 for a full kit. On top of the kit, it will cost you anywhere from $500-$800 for the clutch to be installed, depending on the shop and location. Taking these into factor, the cost to buy the DSG, and tune it, will roughly be $2900+ over the 6 speed manual (with a Stage 2 tune on a stock clutch). If you replace your 6spd clutch, it will cost you as little as $1000 (new clutch with stock DMF + install) to as much as $2700 (getting the most expensive clutch that can handle 700lb/ft tq or more, and highest priced install). Even if you spent as much as possible as you could on the new clutch and install, it will still be cheaper than the DSG (at its cheapest price point) with the tune it needs to perform at its best and be reliable. With my MK7 GTI 6spd manual, on Stage 2 Eurodyne tune, I bought the DKM Stage 2 clutch (440 lb/ft tq capability holding power) for $740, and that included the clutch disk, pressure plate, flywheel, TOB, and bolts. I installed it myself which cost me $75 to get required tools for the install. All in I’m $815 out of my pocket for a new clutch installed, and it will hold as much as the DSG can before the DSG starts slipping. No need to spend extra money on the manual, like the DSG, for another tune. Just the 1 tune, and the transmission is good to go. So all in, I’m saved myself almost $2100 by going with the manual, and that’s a low end ballpark. I could’ve spent more on a different clutch, but if your smart when shopping for a new clutch, you won’t have to spend tons of your hard earned $$. It could also cost more than the low end $400 that I gave out, for the DSG tune, depending on the company you tune with. This savings for me is with a new performance clutch installed. So not only did I save save myself a ton of money going manual, but it’s also tons funner to drive than the DSG. Do the math, and you’ll save yourself money going with the manual.
back in my day, a MK6 with K04 turbo was the thing.. about the same power as a stage 2 MK7 now i guess. tho there is no way in hell you are getting 340 hp to the wheels. i look forward to your dyno. I have 200 videos on my 5 MK6 GTI's I owned.
The 6spd clutch is WEAK. I have also drove manual cars for many years and would say im very easy on my clutch and it started slipping the first day after i got my tune. Any tune will cause slipping and you will need to upgrade regardless.
Mk5 gti k04 owner here, after i paid off my car, year later i went stage 1. Few years later i went stage 2+ and maybe 1 year after i went k04. If anything, i would drive it stock for at least 3-4 years before going stage 1. I have heard this theory long time ago but im not sure how accurate this is. You gotta drive your car in stock mode at least 20k miles before u start making changes. Can anyone define this ?
There is no question should you do it . do it and never look back . i done mine 2016 , 2020 i still have it . no problems . don;t drive like a maniac and you'll be ok
I think my 2016 golf r had a new clutch driver. It has 36k miles and the clutch slips in 5th/6th gear when aggressive shifting. It also may just be a flaw in the design, I think it has the same clutch as the gti and it's stage 1 power. I hate the clutch and the shift anyways so no big deal. I don't know what clutch I want though. I'm thinking stage 3 street clutch and apr short shift kit.
Hey found an Apr aultralink on Euro tuning site for a hundred 23 dollars .Does it have a built-in tune in the ecu device, or am I gonna have to get the software at an extra price ? Cause it states that there is no need to download software and tune it twice. I Just need advice for my 2013 s5 supercharged v6 3.0t S5 ? Should I replace my coils and sparks first..I have a IE intake which was 5hundred somthing ? What advice can you give me for other upgrades as well ? But my first question is important ?
Just had my APR tune done to my CC at the dealership. Ocala VW in FL has their own APR tech. I had this done 2 weeks after they put a used 2.0t motor in my car. The motor job was $8K and the tune was an extra $700 and does not void your warranty. The service manager not only recommended it. but called to make sure I was happy on my ride home. LOL
I'm going APR stage 2 on my 2017 mk7 GTI next weekend. I do have the base model without LSD hopefully it will still be cool even without that add on. At least I won't have to worry about LSD maintenance. Your thoughts guys?
If you are test driving a Gti make sure you try it in the rain. Make sure you try pulling out from a street and see if you can speed up fast. I test drove mine on a dry day in the suburbs on straight roads didn’t realize how much the lack of traction would suck in day to day driving. Also keep in mind the resale is abysmal so if you buy it new plan on keeping it or losing your shirt. Personally I can’t imagine wanting more power as in stock form it is completely incapable of putting power to the ground.
New video??? Rinse and repeat the same story! Get this, I was riding with my buddy in his Focus RS when it was raining and when he jumped on it pulling out his tire spun a bit!!!!! What a piece of shit 40k AWD Rallye Sport car. We actually thought about pulling over and burning that POS on the side of the road because of that. #triggered
don't forget your insurance premiums will go way up. If you don't report it and get caught after an accident your claim will be denied and you could get sued for a lot of money.
CAN ANYONE HELP? every time I switch to a program and I’m on the high way at eventually 3800 revs a check engine comes on with code 0299 Turbo underboost. Is this because of the chip? How can I fix this because I do feel an enormous loss of power.
how is long term reliablity for V6 APR? Any owner of 2012-2013 A6-A7 3.0 TFSI that went with apr and still enjoy the car after almost 10 years? thank you
I use Apr stage 3 on my Passat b7 with k04, intake and downpipe with sport cat. It's ok. Use it 5-6 years already, I like it. Also have dsg chip. Apr hardware support is bad. I asked my dealer for new uppipe - they did not answered me.
Hmmm, sure the tune feels great for the first year or so. But what happens when your engine starts misfiring or pinging? Audi won't help. Your tuner will run and hide. Then you're stuck with a car that no one wants to touch...
Just bought a 2016 Volkswagen gti, apr stage 2, ive been getting horrible mpg. What should I do I wanna check to see why I’m gett horrible Gas, I download the APR mobile app, do I need to buy the 200$ dongle ?
Bought my '17 new, and gave it almost 4k miles until I went stage 1 high output. For almost the last 2 years, I've put almost 25k miles on the stock clutch and never had any slippage. There are a couple things I've always....always done when going anywhere. Never floor it under 3500 rpm or so regardless of gear. Full throttle in any gear up through 5th has held. I've never launched my car, and I also came from driving a modded ap1 for 8 years. (which, I admit, made me a better driver) I went apr stg 2 high output just the other day. The clutch still holds (although I'm less confident of the limits now), I can tell it finally doesn't like the tq near the top of 4th gear which I kind of expected after seeing just how drastic an increase it was to stg 2. I'm not in fear that my clutch is just gonna immediately wear out. I could easily get 15k-20k miles more on it, and will upgrade probably once I'm sick of forcing myself to adopt certain driving habits for the sake of longevity vs sending it whenever I want.
17 golf r stage 2 all APR accersseirous available E30 11.9 1/4 even though your Joey lagoon a stock clutch rated at 300 hp isn’t gona last spend the money and get the stage 3 southbend trust me
Wearing out your clutch has nothing to do with how much experience you have driving a manual, it has to do with you not abusing your clutch, and dumping it at 6,000rpm.
I disagree...if you're learning to drive stick on a clutch it will be worn out sooner (ask teddywestside412)..there's a reason I'm almost 45k miles into having my car tuned at stage 2 and still have the stock clutch. I do agree though that not driving like an asshole also extends the life of your drivetrain.
Hey guys need help, theres a golf mk4 1.8t with a stage 2 apr map on it, its been replaced with a audi tt clutch but it has 160,000 miles on it. Should i buy?
You guys are lucky. Ive been told they dont make them for the '18 model 2.0t's. So maybe a remap or other tune csn be installed. Just locate a good shop to do the work.
Brian Dahdouh, I'm in Edison nj and the dealership told me it doesn't but the tuner told me they will red flag your car to hold it against you if something goes wrong
Yes that's true, the tuner told me that but it only holds to the dealership you got it done at and if you go to another dealership they can flag you since they're independently owned
Tom D I know, one of the dealerships near is me in the middle of talking with apr, but it’s so expensive and it’s not anywhere near the stage 1 tunes power and even Installing their own aftermarket parts voids it
Believe me I want to but my luck is just sooo bad! I was talking to someone at my vw dealership (tune friendly) and they told me how someone had to pay 17000 out of pocket to fix their new gti because of a tune and that made me skeptical
I have an Audi a1 apr 99 ron map 170hp 216 torque iv had 3 clutches and a second engine 😂😂 got engine with 18k less mileage that what came with my car for £900 done 24,896 miles amazing deal then my neighbor fitted it for £300 wow
The vw dealer I go to will do the apr+ tune. There is a unit jb1/jb4 which install between the ecu and the engine sensors and basically take the signals from the ecu and change them so you get a tune without triggering the ecu and losing your warranty
I don't think there was one for stage 1 (but it was probably just built in somehow) but since stage 2 was free from apr the place wasn't going to do a service for free so it was like 80ish dollars. Thanks for watching!
My man the clutch start slipping due to the extra load from the added power and torque from the tune it has nothing to do with you being "pro manual driver" or not which i guarantee you that you are Not ....you dont even understand the concept of why clutches start slipping from a tune and you claim to be a pro driver lol 😂 i'll explain it to you in simple terms its like a brake pad that has to stop a much heavier car than intended its gonna make the pads wear out faster plus the more you use it the faster it wears out
Which version of it is rated at "450 "ft/lb" of torque? VW isn't going to the added expense of specifying stronger versions of DSG for GTIs. Also, "ft/lb" is the incorrect unit. The correct unit is Foot-Pounds because torque is a multiple of force (pounds) and distance from the center of rotation.
That adds much less torque and power than either their Stage 1 or Stage 2. I discount APR's "at the crankshaft" claims because they're merely estimates per APR themselves. Actual measurements are taken at the wheels on their in house chassis dyno. APR claims a 49 HP HP increase at the wheels with their Plus package, which it the only state of tune they warranty. Independent parties may very well be reporting less. One can approach that gain with a Neuspeed power module. While its ultimately not as much, it'll be easier on your clutch, engine and driveline because it makes less torque. It's torque that breaks parts and fries clutches. I just installed the Neuspeed module in my 2018 GTI Autobahn yesterday (after 850 easy "break in" miles). I'm damn impressed with the results, particularly since the ECU itself is untouched. When the module is removed, VW has no idea whatsoever that it was ever installed.
When an APR Stage 1 tune is done the original software is backed up to the cloud. If you flash back to the original software there is no sign that anything was done. Some APR dealers will do it for free some charge an hourly to do it.
Do you think it's worth it for a car that's not under factory warranty? I have a 13 GLI w/DSG with 114k on her, one owner with all dealer mait so it was taken care of. Shes fun but i feel a bit more power could benefit it in the long term. Thoughts?
Thanks for the reply! So then is the DSG tune required or is it optional for stage 1 tune? I've been watching your channel for awhile man its cool to see a channel grow, keep doing your thing!
rowdytitan You don’t need the DSG tune for Stage 1, but def will for Stage 2. Also yes, get summer tires. They will make the car handle much better. Good luck
Daniel Warren You need it for Stage 2 and not 1 because the DSG transmission can handle the power and torque of Stage 1 fine, but Stage 2 power levels is much better suited with the tuning of the DSG, because with a DSG tune, it will make the transmission shift quicker, will make it 100% up to the driver of when the transmission shifts, instead of it shifting by itself sometimes, and it will change the clutches clamping power to handle the fast shifts and torque of Stage 2 levels better. You don’t have to get the DSG tune when going Stage 2, but it’s highly recommended. With some tunes, the DSG tune also creates a better launch control system
You might want to stop tooting your own horn about your clutch not slipping yet because of your “extensive” time you’ve driven stick shift. Haha, you’re in your early 20’s, if that. You haven’t been driving stick shift that long, even when you started at 14. I was telling myself the same thing about my MK7 GTI clutch not slipping on Stage 2, until it did. I’ve driven manual since I was 15 (36 now), and have tons of Manual driving experience. It comes down to how hard you drive your car, and especially how hard you drive it in the top gears. My MK7 GTI was Stage 2 within the first 2000 miles of when I bought it brand new. The clutch didn’t start slipping till 18,000 miles. Partly because I don’t floor it or slip the clutch from a dig everywhere I go, but mostly because I hardly WOT in the high gears. True story, I realized my clutch was slipping the day after I took my car into Discount Tire, and when it was there I had to ask one of their employees to get out of my car because when he was trying to back up my car out of the parking space (on a small slanted downward hill), he stalled my car 4 times, and was slipping my clutch while trying to use my e-brake to keep him from riolling downward (even though I told him the car is equipped with hill assist so it won’t roll down and that there’s no need to use the e-brake). So yeah, I kicked him out and had a different, more experienced manual driver employee pull it out of the parking spot. Long story short, my clutch was slipping the exact next day! I was pissed. Anyways, it was just a matter of time till my stock clutch would go out, and that will be the same for your car. The OEM clutch is weak. No matter how long you’ve been driving stick shift, if you WOT it in 4th-6th gear often, it will go out sooner. When mine was slipping, I could still get on it in 1st-3rd gear, but I could tell it wasn’t grabbing 100%, but still safe to have some fun in. Needless to say, I ordered and installed myself the DKM Stage 2 clutch (440lb/ft tq rating), which is more than enough for my Stage 2 Eurodyne tune. I love their clutch, and would highly recommend their clutch when the time comes to replace your OEM one. Chatter is not noticeable to people who don’t know it’s in there, but you can very very slightly hear it. It’s stiffer than OEM, but grabs much lower to the floor, and grabs hard! Very easy to manage as a daily. Their Stage 3 twin disk feels even better from what I hear, but I got their Stage 2 on ECS Tuning for $740 on sale, and it includes everything for a clutch job including SMF. Twin disk is $1295. Can hold 660lb/ft tq, but that’s overkill for my MK7 GTI. I’m planning to sell it next year for a M2 or GT350.
You're on literally the happiest dyno if you made over 300whp with stage 1 tune and muffler delete lol... But at the end of the day who cares, a dyno number means s**t.
For any normal DD situations, stock tuning works. But for people who like some spirited sprints, a tune is the best way to go. Take care of maintenance and the car will be fine 99 times out of 100.
all that wear and tear happens from dogging out the car so often . it doesnt matter if you have 1000 more Hp if you drive it normal and not like a race car the parts will basically last like they would normally rom the factory. If you are not regularly dropping the clutch on a regular basis and taking to the drag strip then reliability will not be a problem.
Like how he didn't like your comment mr toot my own horn
Your exactly right. This is especially true for performance cars.
I have owned quite a few cars for someone my age and the reliable car I ever owned was a 2012 Dodge Charger RT. Look at the reliability ratings for those things.
I was still on original suspension, transmission, and brakes.
lol this video really resonated with me. It was like listening to my life experience in my MK6 GTI. I bought my GTI brand new and it was my 3rd manual. I'd like to say I'm pro and don't drive like an a$$hat. Especially buying a new car, I BABIED the clutch and how I drove it.
Basically, went APR stage 1 for just easy power with no additional mods. Was fun for about a year then I wanted moar. Went APR Stage 2 and my turbo blew about 10 months later. The car only had around 33k miles when it blew mind you so I was kind of pissed that a fairly fresh turbo when my car was only like 3-4 years old ended up blowing. VW quoted me 2k for a new K03 turbo and recommended I just upgrade to K04 at that time. The K04 brand new aftermarket was cheaper so why not? That gave me the push to actually go through with it. The part I forgot that ended up adding up like crazy in costs was obviously labor to install the K04, then upgrade to the APR Stage2+ K04 tune, AND get the Southbend Stage 3 drop-in disc since stock couldn't handle it anymore. + the labor for the drop-inc disc install. All of that really added up. When all was said and done I probably dropped close to 5k.
In the end however I felt unstoppable. Car felt strong, pulled hard, and gave me zero issues. I had done just about every mod to the car and it was a perfect daily driver with plenty of power to back it. I guess feeling my car had peaked in my eyes to everything I ever wanted to do, I traded it in and now I'm on a MK7 GTI completely stock, fresh again. 1 owner, 25k miles. Time to start the build over again. Only this time, I really hope my turbo doesn't blow so soon if I do ever actually go stage 2 :)
Any chance it was a white mk6 with a red shifter, Audi center caps, Toyo tires. Somewhere in south Florida? I’m trying to find the original owner.
It's engine torque that fries clutches and breaks driveline components such as CV joints, half shafts and transmissions. The APR Stage 2 tune increased engine torque by more than 50%, which is an awful lot to ask from a stock clutch. APR's new "plus" tune is a low torque package that carries a warranty from APR that equals the factory warranty. The "plus" tune increase engine torque by approximately 21%. APR offers no warranty on any higher levels of tune, including Stage 1 and Stage 2.
I think this reality strongly hints at the stock clutch's limitations.
I am a senior design engineer with two registered patents and a third pending. I grew up around cars and have been reading similar issues for many decades. Some may feel that adds credibility to my theory here, while others may not.
ALSO: Per APR's own website, they take all their measured HP and Torque values AT THE WHEELS, using a chassis dyno. As their site explains, crankshaft values are estimates.
Furthermore and despite this guy's claim, VW/Audi make significant engine upgrades for relatively modest increased in power (and, of course torque) output.
Per Arin at APR: (This is posted on a variety of VW enthusiast sites):
Cylinder head (made from a different alloy compared to other engines in this module because of higher thermal stress)
• Exhaust valves (hollow, higher Ni content, nitrided)
• Exhaust valve seat rings (improved temperature stability and wear resistance)
• Exhaust camshaft (adapted valve timings)
• Compression ratio 9.3:1 with different pistons
• Piston cooling jets (higher flow rate)
• High pressure injectors (even higher flow rate)
• Exhaust turbocharger
• Charge pressures of up to 17.4 PSI (1.2 bar)
• High performance main radiator with 1-2 auxiliary radiators (depending on country specifications)
• Additional acoustic modifications have been made in order to achieve a sporty sound - use of a sound actuator (for the occupant cell) and active exhaust flaps in the exhaust system
I also know the R uses superior bearings throughout the engine.
Even the mid level (e.g. 252 HP in audi A6) engines contain many internal upgrades over the GTI's version of the EA888.
Vw/Audi wouldn't go to this trouble if it weren't necessary in preserving long term durability.
Either go with a "low torque tune" such as APR's "Plus" or with a plug and play device such as Neuspeed's. Anything more aggressive is likely to cause problems as the miles pile on.
harddrivin1le - So you’re saying I shouldn’t go stage 2 from Apr?? I’m at the process of going stage 2 now I just don’t know which tune to pick..
I am not saying that. What you choose to do to your car is your business.
I chose the Neuspeed power module for my new 2018 GTI Autobahn 6 speed manual and love it:
www.neuspeed.com/641015-neuspeed-power-module.html
The difference in power output is downright amazing, it doesn't mess with factory's "computer" and leaves no trace of ever being used once its removed.
harddrivin1le - See my thing w the power module is that it alters signals in your ecu so it tells the computer to run more boost... it’s basically just a sprint booster. With that being said, do you know if neuspeeds power module adjust to the fuel and ignition timing for the added boost applied to stock? I was gonna go w that too until Dinan came out w the dinantronics power module..
I guess I don’t understand what you mean by “sprint booster.” The Neuspeed module makes added power for as long as the driver wishes by intercepting and conditioning boost and manifold pressure sensor signals that are subsequently read by the ECU.
I suspect the ECU compensates for timing and fuel delivery (and of course boost) based on those altered signals, given the engine would otherwise run terribly. Obviously more fuel is being delivered because the engine is clearly making a lot more power (which requires more fuel).
I suggest you contact Neuspeed if you want more specific information.
My module’s been installed for 600+ miles. The car drives as though VW engineered and manufactured it that way, with the exception that it makes more power throughout the RPM range. There isn’t a single “hiccup” or anomaly anywhere. In other words, it literally seems “perfect.” That’s high praise from a perfectionist engineer like me.
Note: I exclusively use 93 octane Shell V Power and also use this aftermarket air filter element (in the stock air box), which I installed just prior to the Neuspeed module:
www.ecstuning.com/b-afe-parts/magnum-flow-air-filter/31-10254~afe/?gclid=CjwKCAjwxZnYBRAVEiwANMTRX8Y4I7mV0bTbd0Piw_l5uWAcvLktEhq3RugIZNoA-fD38oOMIwyZbBoCqYcQAvD_BwE
harddrivin1le - That’s awesome man I’m glad you’re getting a good response from the power module... just don’t know if that’s what I would go for🤙🏼
Stage 1 is a totally safe tune if you drive the car with respect. Lokey Vw in Clearwater Florida offers an apr stage 1 tune when you purchase a brand new one. The dealership wouldn’t offer that in the event it would dog the car out. Now they may install other upgrades on the car I am unaware of but I highly doubt it because the cost is about $700 more dollars for the upgrade.
Has fuel economy changed a lot from stock to stage 2? How many mpg you get when driving normal?
And by the way, awesome content you have man keep it up
I have an APR tune. Stage 2. No problems whatsoever. These cars are very durable. The only thing I recommend is upgrade the clutch. Possibly use a Clutch Masters or South Bend clutch. Do a fuel system cleaner every 20k miles. Which cleans out the carbon deposits.
Great video very informative and he shows everything so you know he isn’t bull shitting
I have a custom Stage 1 ECU tune. And the car was tested on Dyno as well as on road. So my car went from 100 hp to 145 hp and from 170 nm of torque to 233. And even though I am a little worried, I did some research and found out that the clutch/gear box in my car is rated for max 240 nm of torque. So that already showed me how serious my tuner is. They also told me they respect the manufacturer tolerances. So in theory, my tune is safe and my car should break like any other car.
While it may be possible to estimate an approximate life span for Clutch, warranty coverage is generally limited to catastrophic failure due to manufacture.
It can be said 911s and WRXs had a reputation of "weird take up" and I've met multiple people that needed a replacement at 25,000 miles. And yet there are people that double that.
As far warranty goes dealers will look for criteria of some sort to be met:
1. Clutch wasn't underwater (absorbed water then failed).
2. No visible hotspots on flywheel (indicating racing slippage take offs).
And more that dont come to mind. Otherwise clutch is simply a wear component.
Pity you guys don't get the VW scirocco r like us in Australia :) - VW Scirocco R Stage 2+ --- insta - kazas
awesome videos man keep them coming :) any cosmetic mods coming?
I would kill for a scirocco..they're gorgeous...thanks! but I'm thinking wheels front lip, R side skirts, rear diffuser stuff like that! Maybe a wrap in the future!
MedicMagic yeah wrap it ....do it urself for the fun factor :)
You won't be getting Sciroccos in Australia much longer:
www.thedrive.com/sheetmetal/15084/the-volkswagen-scirocco-is-dead-again
Just for information, according to VW, I fried my rings on my '14 GTI after going REVO stage 2, now it burns oil and VW won't fix it. I gave that car to my wife since she only drives like 3 miles to work and now I drive a mostly stock (except lowering springs) '16 Audi S3.
I get my stage 1 tune on my 1.8T tomorrow
Can you give us some of your experience before and after the tune.
@@Inturl618 A year later ... no word. I guess it didn't go well.
How did it go
Nvm looks like u got a Honda now lol
I have a stage 2 APR tune on my mk6 GLI. It's on its second stock clutch. Idk how but VW replaced both of them under warranty even with the tune. The second clutch slips in 6th gear but I drive it normally now to save it as long as I can and it's still holding up the same. Engine is still in excellent shape. Not to mention I walked 2 STIs and a focus RS. They were in shock.
I mean... Why would you get another stock clutch if you toasted the previous one?
Because I didn't have the money for stage 2 plus if vw will replace it under warranty then why not?
Your Motor and clutch should hold up fine! its the same engine in the R (EA888)! If you beat on it or drag race a lot you will have issues eventually (engine and clutch). if you're canyon carving and spirited driving like me, no issues. I have a GTI MK7 with APR stage 1, APR intake and catback exhaust. Have had no issues in my 2 years of owning it thus far. Only issue for me is that I have gone through 2 sets of Mich Pilots :)
You've increased engine output torque by more than 40%. Realizing its torque that fries clutches and breaks parts, there's no way you won't experience premature clutch wear as the miles roll up. Half-shaft, CV joint and transaxle issues are also distinct possibilities.
APR is now offering a tune they fully warranty to match the factory warranty coverage. It's called "APR plus." Go to their website and check it out. They're able to do that because it's limits engine torque gains to 21% (as measured at the wheels on the chassis dyno):
www.goapr.com/products/ecu_upgrade_20tsi_gen3_mqb.html
Be sure to select MK7 GTI, "Plus" tune and output at the wheels. As their site specifically states, actual measurements are taken at the wheels on a chassis dyno, meaning "crankshaft" figures are estimates at best.
I'm honestly considering the APR+ tune but I'm sure there is some stipulations, like you must change your oil more often than the service manual says. I gotta read more into it because you don't want APR to deny you, after VW does. Also does it match the 72k warranty or just 36k.
i just had a new clutch fitted and about to get a stage 1 thanks for vid i done pcv new wheels new tyres new front bumper new lights r8 coils new plugs engine flush changed to performace oil as other was to lean for the gti rear seals done heck i been spending non stop way i see it something will go wrong so may as well go for it if you see me driving i been wizzing past you or broke down on side of road vw for life
4:44 hahahah good thing I decided to make a video today too
#saveteddy
Getting a 2017 eventually. so many to choose from and they have a manual, nice! I had a 1987 Golf years ago. Not fast but fun to drive and great in the snow.
I got another hatchback (Mazda 3 slow as hell) now and love it. Check engine light won't go away and its hard to diagnose. Oxygen sensor, maf sensor, wiring harness was messed up so i replaced it. Damn light went back on and performance went back to shit. Got into an accident recently and the repairs are beyond keeping the car. So i'm ready to say bye and hello to VW once again!!!!
I was brainstorming on what to get and a GTI fits everything pretty much. I like all the mod options for sure. I want a fast car again, its been too long.
I have an APR intake APR diverter valve APR stage 1 with the four program tune APR 3 in exhaust forge side mount intercooler forge inlet pipe h&r lowering springs adjustable dampener the car has had all these on it since the day it was born it's a 2005 GTI 1.8 t and it has a hundred and forty-three thousand miles on it I've never had any serious issues always done the required maintenance timing anything that needed to be done and never had any issues with warranty work or anyting
You've been driving sticks since you were 14 huh? So 1 year then? :D
I've read that the DSG can handle more power than the manual trans. Do you know anything about that?
Justin Sanchez yes they can
Yes. DSG = race ready
I have no experience with them but Ive heard they hold power well but i've also heard you need a tune or it'll end badly. Thanks for watching!
Justin Sanchez If you look at it closer, you will realize that it doesn’t matter. For example:
• DSG transmission upgrade cost $2500 more than the 6spd manual, when buying new.
• If you have DSG, if you tune the car, you’ll also want to get the DSG tune, which will cost at least another $400+ on top of the Stage tune you are already paying for, depending on the company you go with for your tuning.
• DSG stock will hold more power without slipping, compared to the 6spd manual transmission.
• An aftermarket clutch for the 6 speed manual, will cost you anywhere from $500 (if reusing your dual mass flywheel) to $1900 for a full kit. On top of the kit, it will cost you anywhere from $500-$800 for the clutch to be installed, depending on the shop and location.
Taking these into factor, the cost to buy the DSG, and tune it, will roughly be $2900+ over the 6 speed manual (with a Stage 2 tune on a stock clutch). If you replace your 6spd clutch, it will cost you as little as $1000 (new clutch with stock DMF + install) to as much as $2700 (getting the most expensive clutch that can handle 700lb/ft tq or more, and highest priced install).
Even if you spent as much as possible as you could on the new clutch and install, it will still be cheaper than the DSG (at its cheapest price point) with the tune it needs to perform at its best and be reliable.
With my MK7 GTI 6spd manual, on Stage 2 Eurodyne tune, I bought the DKM Stage 2 clutch (440 lb/ft tq capability holding power) for $740, and that included the clutch disk, pressure plate, flywheel, TOB, and bolts. I installed it myself which cost me $75 to get required tools for the install. All in I’m $815 out of my pocket for a new clutch installed, and it will hold as much as the DSG can before the DSG starts slipping. No need to spend extra money on the manual, like the DSG, for another tune. Just the 1 tune, and the transmission is good to go. So all in, I’m saved myself almost $2100 by going with the manual, and that’s a low end ballpark. I could’ve spent more on a different clutch, but if your smart when shopping for a new clutch, you won’t have to spend tons of your hard earned $$. It could also cost more than the low end $400 that I gave out, for the DSG tune, depending on the company you tune with. This savings for me is with a new performance clutch installed. So not only did I save save myself a ton of money going manual, but it’s also tons funner to drive than the DSG.
Do the math, and you’ll save yourself money going with the manual.
Jason S what do you mean by a dsg tune on top of a stage tune?
Manual....Manual....HOW DOES THIS APR STAGE 1 TUNE FAIR ON THE DSG 7 SPEED DUAL CLUTCH TRANSMISSION?
This!! Let us know !!
I have an APR tune on my car the dealer actually did the tune and it does not mess with the warranty at all
i just gotta 2015 gti with an apr stage 1 tune. what kinda clutch do u recommend and how many miles do u think the stock clutch will last?
back in my day, a MK6 with K04 turbo was the thing.. about the same power as a stage 2 MK7 now i guess. tho there is no way in hell you are getting 340 hp to the wheels. i look forward to your dyno. I have 200 videos on my 5 MK6 GTI's I owned.
Idunnooo 319 with just stage 1 and she feels a whole lot faster now! Lol but cool man I’ll check out your channel!
319 to the wheels on a dyno?? dang... then you may have me there...
We'll see...I gotta get it done before it gets too much warmer lol
The mk7 ecu remap will prolly still work ya.
The 6spd clutch is WEAK. I have also drove manual cars for many years and would say im very easy on my clutch and it started slipping the first day after i got my tune. Any tune will cause slipping and you will need to upgrade regardless.
Hey thanks for watching! I'm just so surprised how fast people are having issues...maybe I just don't drive and hoon as hard as others!?
I can still drive my car everyday but it slips pretty bad at full throttle. I'm just babying it until I upgrade! Stg3 no looking back!
CreativeControl904: Which APR Stage are you running and what additional mods do you have?
Vw dropped the ball on the stock golf r clutch. I’m still stock and I slip at 22,000 miles. Sad when you pay 45k for a car with a shit clutch
CreativeControl904 dsg it is then 😌
You gapped a stock R pale you aren’t gapping this one lmao
Mk5 gti k04 owner here, after i paid off my car, year later i went stage 1. Few years later i went stage 2+ and maybe 1 year after i went k04.
If anything, i would drive it stock for at least 3-4 years before going stage 1.
I have heard this theory long time ago but im not sure how accurate this is.
You gotta drive your car in stock mode at least 20k miles before u start making changes.
Can anyone define this ?
I have a friend that picked up a 2015 A3. He literally was stage 1 within the week lol.
There is no question should you do it . do it and never look back . i done mine 2016 , 2020 i still have it . no problems . don;t drive like a maniac and you'll be ok
Wow you guys get ripped on your tuning prices Over in the uk a stage 1 and dsg stage 1 is £300
Here in India its a bit more than £1000
395 here with MWR PERFORMANCE but they mobile so will come to me
It’s 1000$ in USA Ohio
I think my 2016 golf r had a new clutch driver. It has 36k miles and the clutch slips in 5th/6th gear when aggressive shifting. It also may just be a flaw in the design, I think it has the same clutch as the gti and it's stage 1 power. I hate the clutch and the shift anyways so no big deal. I don't know what clutch I want though. I'm thinking stage 3 street clutch and apr short shift kit.
Hey found an Apr aultralink on Euro tuning site for a hundred 23 dollars .Does it have a built-in tune in the ecu device, or am I gonna have to get the software at an extra price ? Cause it states that there is no need to download software and tune it twice. I Just need advice for my 2013 s5 supercharged v6 3.0t S5 ? Should I replace my coils and sparks first..I have a IE intake which was 5hundred somthing ? What advice can you give me for other upgrades as well ? But my first question is important ?
Pretty cool when Apr stands behind the 2.0tsi and clutches are warranted up to 10k
Solid company...even though they don't include a breather filter that might cost them $1 for their intakes;) Thanks for watching!
MedicMagic what’s a breather filter?
Just had my APR tune done to my CC at the dealership. Ocala VW in FL has their own APR tech. I had this done 2 weeks after they put a used 2.0t motor in my car. The motor job was $8K and the tune was an extra $700 and does not void your warranty. The service manager not only recommended it. but called to make sure I was happy on my ride home. LOL
U paid 8k for a used engine install? Sounds like ur talking out ur ass
I'm going APR stage 2 on my 2017 mk7 GTI next weekend. I do have the base model without LSD hopefully it will still be cool even without that add on. At least I won't have to worry about LSD maintenance. Your thoughts guys?
If you are test driving a Gti make sure you try it in the rain. Make sure you try pulling out from a street and see if you can speed up fast. I test drove mine on a dry day in the suburbs on straight roads didn’t realize how much the lack of traction would suck in day to day driving. Also keep in mind the resale is abysmal so if you buy it new plan on keeping it or losing your shirt. Personally I can’t imagine wanting more power as in stock form it is completely incapable of putting power to the ground.
Tra Tra TRIGGEREDD haha
Stock tires aren't good i have a ultra high performance tire and i grip like a bat out of hell #triggered
Matt N nice bullshit
New video??? Rinse and repeat the same story! Get this, I was riding with my buddy in his Focus RS when it was raining and when he jumped on it pulling out his tire spun a bit!!!!! What a piece of shit 40k AWD Rallye Sport car. We actually thought about pulling over and burning that POS on the side of the road because of that. #triggered
The VAQ differential makes a world of difference. My '15 GTI performance package and my '18 Autobahn both have it.
don't forget your insurance premiums will go way up. If you don't report it and get caught after an accident your claim will be denied and you could get sued for a lot of money.
CAN ANYONE HELP? every time I switch to a program and I’m on the high way at eventually 3800 revs a check engine comes on with code 0299 Turbo underboost. Is this because of the chip? How can I fix this because I do feel an enormous loss of power.
how is long term reliablity for V6 APR? Any owner of 2012-2013 A6-A7 3.0 TFSI that went with apr and still enjoy the car after almost 10 years? thank you
I use Apr stage 3 on my Passat b7 with k04, intake and downpipe with sport cat. It's ok. Use it 5-6 years already, I like it. Also have dsg chip. Apr hardware support is bad. I asked my dealer for new uppipe - they did not answered me.
Hmmm, sure the tune feels great for the first year or so. But what happens when your engine starts misfiring or pinging? Audi won't help. Your tuner will run and hide. Then you're stuck with a car that no one wants to touch...
Is tcu tune needed with Apr stage 1? Or it’s just nice to have?
Just bought a 2016 Volkswagen gti, apr stage 2, ive been getting horrible mpg. What should I do I wanna check to see why I’m gett horrible Gas, I download the APR mobile app, do I need to buy the 200$ dongle ?
Is20 for 1500? Lol. I thought they were cheaper. I see them on MQB forums for like 400 to 600 sometimes.
super easy to find low mileage is20s because of how many people go is38
Probably for used...they're cheaper from different sources...I had just checked from VW directly..Thanks for watching!
ive found is38s for 1500 LOL
Bought my '17 new, and gave it almost 4k miles until I went stage 1 high output. For almost the last 2 years, I've put almost 25k miles on the stock clutch and never had any slippage.
There are a couple things I've always....always done when going anywhere. Never floor it under 3500 rpm or so regardless of gear. Full throttle in any gear up through 5th has held. I've never launched my car, and I also came from driving a modded ap1 for 8 years. (which, I admit, made me a better driver)
I went apr stg 2 high output just the other day. The clutch still holds (although I'm less confident of the limits now), I can tell it finally doesn't like the tq near the top of 4th gear which I kind of expected after seeing just how drastic an increase it was to stg 2.
I'm not in fear that my clutch is just gonna immediately wear out. I could easily get 15k-20k miles more on it, and will upgrade probably once I'm sick of forcing myself to adopt certain driving habits for the sake of longevity vs sending it whenever I want.
Trust 💚
17 golf r stage 2 all APR accersseirous available E30 11.9 1/4 even though your Joey lagoon a stock clutch rated at 300 hp isn’t gona last spend the money and get the stage 3 southbend trust me
Sounds sweet!
Wearing out your clutch has nothing to do with how much experience you have driving a manual, it has to do with you not abusing your clutch, and dumping it at 6,000rpm.
I disagree...if you're learning to drive stick on a clutch it will be worn out sooner (ask teddywestside412)..there's a reason I'm almost 45k miles into having my car tuned at stage 2 and still have the stock clutch. I do agree though that not driving like an asshole also extends the life of your drivetrain.
I have a audi a6 4.0 tdi 2019. Theres only 1 stage for diesel cars. Is it safe guys ? The car costs a lot and i dont wana fuck up for just a few hp
Hey guys need help, theres a golf mk4 1.8t with a stage 2 apr map on it, its been replaced with a audi tt clutch but it has 160,000 miles on it. Should i buy?
Fuck no
You certainly have already done the IC upgrade haven't you? What about spark plugs? Did you just gap those down to .024 and call it day?
I have a 2017 VW Passat R-Line automatic transmission. I was thinking about the stage 2 apr. Any opinions?
Did u ever tune ur Passat? I have a 16 Passat r-line and am thinking of doing an Apr stage 1
You guys are lucky. Ive been told they dont make them for the '18 model 2.0t's. So maybe a remap or other tune csn be installed. Just locate a good shop to do the work.
Is the clutch issue a problem for GTIs with dsg?
ok i have a 15 jetta se 1.8t , what should i do? looked into apr but no dealers near me?
any idea on how to pass an emission test with apr stage 2 tune?
I appreciate your channel, there’s not many Mk7 mod videos. Forsure going stage 1 after this
Thanks I appreciate that! You won’t be disappointed!
on a gti how will the fuel economy change? stock its about average 27 mpg, does it drop significantly with a stage 1 tune? automatic not manual
Arthur Curry should go up if anything.
I live in NJ and the APR stage 1 doesn’t void warranty.
Brian Dahdouh, I'm in Edison nj and the dealership told me it doesn't but the tuner told me they will red flag your car to hold it against you if something goes wrong
Corey Bonadie when you get the apr tune ask the dealer for a written contract. If anything goes wrong, you have a written agreement.
Yes that's true, the tuner told me that but it only holds to the dealership you got it done at and if you go to another dealership they can flag you since they're independently owned
TD1. You have been given bad info.
I kinda want to take it in for something dumb and see if they have anything to say lol
I just got a GTI model s and it has 241 hp and 270 torque i am considering doing a stage 1 tune where do you think in numbers i will be thanks.
260hp 350nm right?
So wait you took this to a Volkswagen dealership and they tuned it for you ? Or you went to a tuner and had some guy tune it ??
ayooo would this be a good bang for your buck on a 2016 jetta 1.4 tsi?
Conclusion: save all these tuning money and buy a Golf R
And then Stage 2 tune your R just because you can.
卓尧杜 the R needs a tune too and it costs $15,000 more
I wanna tune my new gti but I’m afraid that with my luck my motor would explode🙄
i leik pi you can do apr+ which means apr will provide warranty. Some vw dealers will even do the tune.
Tom D I know, one of the dealerships near is me in the middle of talking with apr, but it’s so expensive and it’s not anywhere near the stage 1 tunes power and even Installing their own aftermarket parts voids it
If you’ve got deep pockets yes!! Lots of fun BUT once car is identified TD1 tune you are screwed
Just send it! lolol
Believe me I want to but my luck is just sooo bad! I was talking to someone at my vw dealership (tune friendly) and they told me how someone had to pay 17000 out of pocket to fix their new gti because of a tune and that made me skeptical
I have an Audi a1 apr 99 ron map 170hp 216 torque iv had 3 clutches and a second engine 😂😂 got engine with 18k less mileage that what came with my car for £900 done 24,896 miles amazing deal then my neighbor fitted it for £300 wow
This is barely intellegible. Thanks for sharing
The vw dealer I go to will do the apr+ tune. There is a unit jb1/jb4 which install between the ecu and the engine sensors and basically take the signals from the ecu and change them so you get a tune without triggering the ecu and losing your warranty
I'm surprised more people aren't doing it!
So you got 310 hp off stage 2 or 1?
He got 319 off stage 1
robert hinds not bad I got 275 off my stage 1 tune alone for my vw cc I added more bolt ins and intake so I should be at about 300wheel
CharlyGen2Cc nice I just traded a 2016 camaro 2ss for a 2017 gti sport and I’m about to get a stage 1 tune in the near future
Not sure where you got your tune but I did mine at auto works in nj and I didn't have an installation fee
I don't think there was one for stage 1 (but it was probably just built in somehow) but since stage 2 was free from apr the place wasn't going to do a service for free so it was like 80ish dollars. Thanks for watching!
What about the Cobb access port?
Off topic sorry,
but does anyone got oil leaks around where the oil filler cap is?
Should I replace the cap?
Red Jerry shhhh
@@tylerg6433 You shhh
Eibach pro kit or sportline?
sportline
@@Russellscottx I subscribed to your channel , nice stuff
Coilovers. Not springs.
My man the clutch start slipping due to the extra load from the added power and torque from the tune it has nothing to do with you being "pro manual driver" or not which i guarantee you that you are Not ....you dont even understand the concept of why clutches start slipping from a tune and you claim to be a pro driver lol 😂 i'll explain it to you in simple terms its like a brake pad that has to stop a much heavier car than intended its gonna make the pads wear out faster plus the more you use it the faster it wears out
The DSG is rated for 450 ft-lbs 😎
Get the APR Plus and have peace of mind!!
Which version of it is rated at "450 "ft/lb" of torque? VW isn't going to the added expense of specifying stronger versions of DSG for GTIs. Also, "ft/lb" is the incorrect unit. The correct unit is Foot-Pounds because torque is a multiple of force (pounds) and distance from the center of rotation.
That adds much less torque and power than either their Stage 1 or Stage 2. I discount APR's "at the crankshaft" claims because they're merely estimates per APR themselves. Actual measurements are taken at the wheels on their in house chassis dyno.
APR claims a 49 HP HP increase at the wheels with their Plus package, which it the only state of tune they warranty. Independent parties may very well be reporting less.
One can approach that gain with a Neuspeed power module. While its ultimately not as much, it'll be easier on your clutch, engine and driveline because it makes less torque. It's torque that breaks parts and fries clutches.
I just installed the Neuspeed module in my 2018 GTI Autobahn yesterday (after 850 easy "break in" miles). I'm damn impressed with the results, particularly since the ECU itself is untouched. When the module is removed, VW has no idea whatsoever that it was ever installed.
harddrivin1le - Mad bro? I used a forward slash instead of a hyphen. You can change your panties now.
Anyone know if a VW CC with under 100k miles can handle an Apr stage 1 easily. Like 30hp increase
go unitronic
I got a 2011 jetta se, any recommendations/opinions?
save money to get a gli/gti
Mine lasted 1500 miles after work and put 12k in upgrades within 5k miles stock is38 though but any how befor 6500 miles clutch was spent
When an APR Stage 1 tune is done the original software is backed up to the cloud. If you flash back to the original software there is no sign that anything was done. Some APR dealers will do it for free some charge an hourly to do it.
This is so wrong it's not even funny. Please don't spread this around.
Do you think it's worth it for a car that's not under factory warranty? I have a 13 GLI w/DSG with 114k on her, one owner with all dealer mait so it was taken care of. Shes fun but i feel a bit more power could benefit it in the long term. Thoughts?
weaponxa do it and don’t look back
Hahaha very experienced manual driver. I'm 18 and I've been driving manuals since I was 15.... Mmmm aahh no you aren't very experienced junior.
How well does the DSG handle stage 1? Just purchased a 2017, I'm considering the apr stage 1 and summer tires as my first performance mods.
I've heard they do pretty well...only downside is the dsg needs its own tune which might be an extra cost. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the reply! So then is the DSG tune required or is it optional for stage 1 tune? I've been watching your channel for awhile man its cool to see a channel grow, keep doing your thing!
rowdytitan You don’t need the DSG tune for Stage 1, but def will for Stage 2. Also yes, get summer tires. They will make the car handle much better. Good luck
Jason S what does a dsg tune do, and why do you need it for stage 2 and not 1?
Daniel Warren You need it for Stage 2 and not 1 because the DSG transmission can handle the power and torque of Stage 1 fine, but Stage 2 power levels is much better suited with the tuning of the DSG, because with a DSG tune, it will make the transmission shift quicker, will make it 100% up to the driver of when the transmission shifts, instead of it shifting by itself sometimes, and it will change the clutches clamping power to handle the fast shifts and torque of Stage 2 levels better. You don’t have to get the DSG tune when going Stage 2, but it’s highly recommended. With some tunes, the DSG tune also creates a better launch control system
You say you're experienced, but floor it in 6th gear on the highway lugging the engine. That's intelligent, lol.
Douh!
Suggestion on post not insult
A VW dealership does this?
"Maybe yer terber werll bler"
look out guys. We have a pro on the standard trans here! At least a couple years! LOL I remember my first beer.
Coors?
700 to put the clutch in? Damn I know it’s off the head but that’s a bit high lol
You might want to stop tooting your own horn about your clutch not slipping yet because of your “extensive” time you’ve driven stick shift. Haha, you’re in your early 20’s, if that. You haven’t been driving stick shift that long, even when you started at 14.
I was telling myself the same thing about my MK7 GTI clutch not slipping on Stage 2, until it did. I’ve driven manual since I was 15 (36 now), and have tons of Manual driving experience. It comes down to how hard you drive your car, and especially how hard you drive it in the top gears. My MK7 GTI was Stage 2 within the first 2000 miles of when I bought it brand new. The clutch didn’t start slipping till 18,000 miles. Partly because I don’t floor it or slip the clutch from a dig everywhere I go, but mostly because I hardly WOT in the high gears.
True story, I realized my clutch was slipping the day after I took my car into Discount Tire, and when it was there I had to ask one of their employees to get out of my car because when he was trying to back up my car out of the parking space (on a small slanted downward hill), he stalled my car 4 times, and was slipping my clutch while trying to use my e-brake to keep him from riolling downward (even though I told him the car is equipped with hill assist so it won’t roll down and that there’s no need to use the e-brake). So yeah, I kicked him out and had a different, more experienced manual driver employee pull it out of the parking spot. Long story short, my clutch was slipping the exact next day! I was pissed.
Anyways, it was just a matter of time till my stock clutch would go out, and that will be the same for your car. The OEM clutch is weak. No matter how long you’ve been driving stick shift, if you WOT it in 4th-6th gear often, it will go out sooner. When mine was slipping, I could still get on it in 1st-3rd gear, but I could tell it wasn’t grabbing 100%, but still safe to have some fun in. Needless to say, I ordered and installed myself the DKM Stage 2 clutch (440lb/ft tq rating), which is more than enough for my Stage 2 Eurodyne tune. I love their clutch, and would highly recommend their clutch when the time comes to replace your OEM one. Chatter is not noticeable to people who don’t know it’s in there, but you can very very slightly hear it. It’s stiffer than OEM, but grabs much lower to the floor, and grabs hard! Very easy to manage as a daily. Their Stage 3 twin disk feels even better from what I hear, but I got their Stage 2 on ECS Tuning for $740 on sale, and it includes everything for a clutch job including SMF. Twin disk is $1295. Can hold 660lb/ft tq, but that’s overkill for my MK7 GTI. I’m planning to sell it next year for a M2 or GT350.
He barely has hair on his balls. 😂
Thats a lot of 1000's
STI's stand no chance vs. stage 1.
I haven't done much comparison.
But STIs can be MODIFIED, too!
STIs don’t have a chance vs a completely stock MK3 TTS 😎
Should have went eurodyne
You're on literally the happiest dyno if you made over 300whp with stage 1 tune and muffler delete lol... But at the end of the day who cares, a dyno number means s**t.
Triggered
All I care is 0-100 km time as its daily driving car not racing car. I think stage 1 ecu and dsg tune without changing anything is the best for me