I ordered the sound card and two shakers last night. I’m starting to wonder if I need to order another star card and shakers see how to work and then I’ll go to four. I also got the pedal haptic motors they come in a couple days. Your video was great showed me a lot. I’m an old man and this seems easy enough to do for 60 year old man.
I'm glad I could help. This one should be fairly straight forward. Attach the bass shakers to your seat or rig, connect speaker wires to the sound card and plug it into the PC. The tricky part can be getting the settings how you want them in Simhub but any trouble just let me know. 💪
Instead of having 2 nearby you could have one under the pedals , and one on the back chair, it would be more beneficial because you can assign it to wheel slip on front and back.
I actually have four of them so I still have front and back, left and right. Initially I didn't feel much benefit from left and right - I could just about feel the difference but now I guess I have gotten used to the difference and it does help a little with feeling slip in either direction on the rear :)
They'll get warm and I definitely feel that in summer but they shouldn't get super hot. I run the ones under my seat at full volume with an amp of the same power rating and yes they feel more than warm to the touch but they definitely shouldn't burn you.
Wow thank you very much for the detailed tutorial this will come in handy.. would you mind helping me with something, as this is all very new to me,I have just bought a simple setup to use on my PS5 and play seat challenge x, basically I bought 3 of the mini Dayton TT25 8ohm transducers and the Nobsound mini Bluetooth power amplifier with built in sound card which is 2channel and 50w and 4-8ohm. My plan was to have one of the transducers (8ohm) under my pedals, then two transducers a on my seat, but running in parallel which I think then halves the ohms so each transducer would be 4ohm, is this safe to do I don’t want to blow out or destroy anything, any help you can give would be greatly appreciated..👍
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing hello mate, thank you for your reply.. I am all setup now, I run the amps and transducers from a laptop using simhub that’s WiFi connected to the ps5 works awesomely, happy racing 👍
nice vid man keep up the good work, btw i got the same seat and 2 pair of 50watt dayton bass shakers, do you think i could just ziptie them like you did? otherwise i got to drill some holes XD. let me know👍
I think the BST-2 is perhaps as big as you can go with the zip ties. It sounds like you might have the BST-1 which is a bit larger and I'm not sure you'll fit them both in with the space provided. Zip ties have worked for me over the past couple of years though. I had to redo them once in that time, just because I have to step on my seat to make my way out of the rig and that snapped a couple from the flexing.
@@xOverTake Have a look to see if they fit on the springs, I don't think they will but it doesn't hurt to try! For hard mounting I'd look at trying to be as close as you can to the mounting point on each side of the seat, that way you'll hopefully feel more of the effect. www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1696804917/bst-1-bass-shaker-mount-highly or something similar seems decent if you have a profile based rig.
@@xOverTake let me know how you get in! I'm tempted to upgrade to BST-1s or something equivalent in the future but first I need to move the rig out of earshot of the wife!
Hello my friend do you think two Dayton audio bst-1 is enough as you entered or put 5 dayton audio bst-2, one per wheel and one under the butt? I have a sim lab gt1 evo. Thank you my friend
Hey Leon. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I currently run with 6 bass shakers but you could easily get away with one front and rear with the right placement. It won't give you the same kind of detail levels but it'll still do the job nicely. If you opt for that route let me know how it goes! You can always later expand to attaching some pucks to your pedals for ABS/TC too.
How about adding some rubber isolation to stop being swamped by with vibes through the chassis? Also have you ever thought of using a surround sound amp so you van use your rumble motors as well? Thanks all very interesting as I am just getting into this.
I have thought about swapping out the 2x stereo amp/sound cards for something else, perhaps I will when I rewire the rig later next year. Thanks for the feedback and sub! 💪
Thank you for the informative video. So you basically need one channel per bass shaker, is that correct? And that's why everyone is buying Nobsound because it's the cheapest two channel amp? And you just connect the amp via USB to your PC but the default audio output from your PC should remain the real headphones?
Yep, exactly that. One channel per shaker and as you want dedicated channels then a 2 channel sound card/amp per pair. You can use the additional channels from your sound card but as you'd likely need an amp then anyway the Nobsound cheaply deals with both.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing thanks. So not every amp also acts as sound card? I was just looking for an alternative because the Nobsound device is so ugly and I can't put it on the desk, but it seems that there are no real alternatives. Seems like one device for 4 channels does not exist (or very expensive). Correct? Do you have overheating issues with the Nobsound?
@@FlyingHawkic I didn't find any inexpensive 4 channel sound card/amps either 😔 the Nobsound gets warm in operation but I've not suffered overheating issues with either of them - I've done some long endurance racing too!
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing many thanks for your help. I see most people online use the Dayton BST-1, but you used the BST-2 which is only 35W instead of 50W. Would you consider that one BST-2 to the back of my racing chair and one below would be sufficient? My rig is the Playseat Sensation Pro.
Would love to know more about your effect settings for simhub. You mention feeling kerbs... is ACC providing this data? Also, really curious how to get the right feeling on 'losing the front end'. Really appreciate your effort here.
The effects come from ACC via the telemetry broadcast which can be enabled by setting up a broadcast file in your ACC folder, for example: edit your Documents\Assetto Corsa Competizione\Config\broadcasting.json to { "updListenerPort": 9000, "connectionPassword": "asd", "commandPassword": "" } and then make sure those settings are matched in Simhub. Most other games have something similar and Simhub is able to give instructions for those individually. The effects I find give you the best feel for losing the front or rear are wheel slip and wheel locking, I've provided a copy of my profile here drive.google.com/file/d/1FOEsMtYcY34LCAANx3r7s7QRWp39fOi9/view?usp=sharing which could help with getting started. The effects I have enabled at the moment are: Engine Vibration (10%), this gives just a low background vibration to feel the car tick over but not be overwhelmed when you're reaching the limiter. Gear Shift (40%), gives that kick in the butt when you shift gears. Road Impacts (100%), feedback for lumps and bumps in the road. Road Vibration (91%), provides a feel for the road texture. Simulated Road Texture (12%), a feeling of the tyres rolling over the road surface, changes with speed. TC/ABS Active (100%), gives a strong vibration when traction control or ABS kicks in (these are two separate effects but they're so similar I lumped them together). Wheels Lock (35%), localised per tyre feel for when wheels lock or slip under braking. Wheels Slip (61%), localised slip feedback - I believe under throttle. The percentages here are for volume strength. Hopefully that gives you some additional info :)
Great video and thanks for the zip tie tip. Would it make sense to mount a transducer to a piece of wood and than zip tie the wood to the springs? Think I‘ll try both w/ and w/o wood.
A viewer from a while back tried mounting it on wood and then against the springs and suggested the direct approach worked better for them in terms of feedback. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts if you try that route!
Thanks Teqqles, must have skipped that comment. I have a seat from OMP, so I need to check if it is similar to yours. Will post a comment hopefully next week.
Hi Teqqles, the OMP seat required a piece of wood. But I kept it small, just a little wider than the bass shake itself. Works great. Although I don‘t have an aluminum rig my pedal base has 40x40 extrusions (Simetik rig). This makes the pedal base too rigid for a bass shaker. I think I will remove the shaker and add an exciter to the brake pedal.
@vb_matic4166 nice! Yea, since moving to a profile based pedal tray I've really had to turn things up to feel anything. I did a DIY pedal project with motors but I'm thinking about a v2 with shaker pucks to give a bit more depth.
I have the R6 XL seat. Just installed 2 Dayton Audio BST-1's on a wooden board and screwed it on the bottom metal frame on the chair. Did not get the result I was hoping for. Little effect in the chair and a lot of vibration on the floor. Does not translate well to the chair at all. Your method is even easier to install. At first I was thinking that it would not work because there isn't a lot of surface pressure on the bass shaker because it is more or less hanging loose. But I guess it works. Will try this tomorrow! Thanks for this video, any final tips?
I think the pressure comes from your body weight compressing the springs. Hope it works out for you, the BST-1's are more powerful than what I use so I'd expect some serious rumble! Let me know how you get on!
It works perfectly! 😊 Lots of feedback in the chair and great isolation. No longer a rattling frame. There’s only room for one underneath the seat, but it’s more than enough. Think I’ll install the other one under the pedals somewhere. Wanted to test everything last night, but my CSL DD got stuck in a firmware upgrade and I have to send it back to Fanatec for repair 😞
Great video! As a father myself with kids sleeping in the room next door. Is it worth using this with low volume so it might not bother anyone but you can still feel it decent? Or should I expect lots of noise even at low volume? Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad you like the video. As a parent I have a similar issue to you, whilst I'm not next door to their bedroom I still have to deal with reducing noise levels. If you can mount the bass shakers directly under your seat like I have then actually you absorb most of the vibrations so I don't have to turn that down much at all and still have a lot of feedback sent my way. The pedal tray is a different matter though, I have to turn that right down and whilst I do still get a feel for what the car is telling me it isn't a patch on what you can glean from daylight hour volumes. Essentially my advice here is to make sure you attach the bass shakers as close to your person as you can and work to avoid any of those vibrations from making your rig rattle (attach them as tightly as you can to the surface you are using and try to isolate that sound from hard wood floors or between surfaces by using rubber feet or grommets). It can still be worth it if you're careful, even if it is just an attachment under your rear end!
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing Great reply thank you! So I got a 80/20 rig with a proper racing seat, so my idea was to mount it directly under the seat. I dont feel like drilling any holes in it so either some tie straps or just some double sided tape, not sure if it would handle the vibration though. Anyways I think it should work fine because its not directly on the 80/20 part. Guess I also need to figure out how many I need, thinking one in the butt and one in the back seat.
@@TheCameltotem bucket seats are a little harder to mount. My first thoughts would be to mount it close via the seat mounting frame and isolate that from your rig so vibrations don't resonate through the whole thing. You're making me want to buy a bucket seat to experiment with 😅
can you help , ive got my bass shakers working properly now , but my simdash gear display and trackometer have stopped working , they work ok if i don’t use bass shakers , thanks
I must be an idiot, but I have the newer version of that nobsound card and I can only get it to work via bluetooth, it wont just connect via USB. I figured bluetooth has some latency and I wanted to get rid of it. Any ideas how?
With mine it automatically detects the USB when you switch the PC on. If you can send a link for the model you have then I'll have a gander to see if there is a magic trick hidden away.
If you're using the nob sound or an external sound device for your bass shakers then make sure they aren't your default sound device. Set them up on SimHub and let that manage the vibrations 👍
Hello. Good job. I ordered an fosi BT30D to activ 3 bass shakers. Do you think it will be OK or should I return it. What kind of bass shaker can I use with it. Thank you very much
Sorry for taking a while to reply Geo, I'll post a video later on why I've been away from the channel. I've not used that particular amp but it might give you an odd result on the sub as it might be feeding from the same source channels as left and right speakers. Let me know how you get on though
If you're running them through a different soundcard like I am with the nobsound then you can set it to just play vibration effects via software like SimHub. If you are getting other audio it sounds like they are set as your primary audio device or running through your main soundcard?
I was thinking adding two of those to the frame of my bed. Do you think I'll feel it through the mattress? I would like it as an extra immersion tool for watching movies.
In the effects profile why is there basically 2 of everything is that because front and rear. I have a nobsound 2 channel amp and 2 bst-1 one on pedals and other on seat.
You'll have 2 channels, with my setup I had 4 channels so it was front L/R, rear L/R, in the effects profile you can select the effects you want for either channel and for you that'll be front and rear
If you just want to dip your toe in then go for exactly what you said, one on the seat and another on the pedal tray. It'll half your outlay and if you do want to then get the left and right effects you can do that at a later date. I'm just terrible at diving in at the deep end 😅
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing Thanks! Another question if you please. What rating power supply does the nobsound take? I am struggling to find information online.
@@simracer1256 the Nobsound I purchased supplies 50 watts per channel and the power brick that came with it is 12v @ 5amps but I believe it can take up to 24 volts. Hope that answers your question :)
That does seem to be the way to go in order to get better feedback on a budget. Of course you can go the Buttkicker route but that can be quite the financial outlay.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing Oh yea, no way could I afford 4x buttkickers lol What I'm looking at now are mounting options for the BST-1s I'm using a P1X rig which is super stiff I'm trying to figure out if a 3d printed vs aluminum mount would work best 4x aluminum mounts is about $105, 4x 3d printed are about $80.. so not much price difference I'm assuming a piece of aluminum bolted to the side of my rig would absorb less vibration than 3d printed plast But I am not sure if I am overthinking this..lol
@@fireonmytarget8937 let me know how you get on with that. I bought some VESA plates to mount the BST-2s but ended up drilling out the holes and mounting them directly to the profile (for the pedals)
Interesting setup. I modelled my setup on wheel positioning as far as I could but it is good to keep them close to where you'll be able to feel the forces so you get the most benefit from the feedback without it leaking too much through the chassis.
Are these all running out of the same USB hub? Off hand I can't think of much else that'd cause drop outs of your other hardware, though earlier bios revisions of AMD motherboards kept losing usb devices too
@@keithmorris604 no worries. Glad that worked. USB ports are always the first thing I change these days, so many issues come from power supply or USB standard
Great info! I have a Buttkicker Gamer 2 which I already had purchased (coming from the flight sim world), and going to be mounting to my aluminum profile as close to under my seat as possible. I'm thinking about adding just 1 usb sound card and 2 of these tranducers to give me a total of 3, and then possibly add another sound card / 2 more later on if the Buttkicker doesnt provide me enough localization on the rear that I'm looking for. With this setup, would you recommend positioning the 2 up front under the pedals? Or would it make more sense to put 1 up front and another one in another position somewhere? Thanks.
Interesting setup. I'd say 2 up front so you have a better idea of which wheel is locking up. The buttkicker has a little more grunt I believe so I think you're right to put it under the seat where you can feel it most but try and place it closer to you so you don't lose too much of the effect.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing Thanks, 1 more question. Between the BST-2 that you own and now have been using. Are you still happy with them or would you have opted for the BST-1? Debating between these 2 atm. Might even add a few rubber washers in between rig and transducer.
@@sincity_steve where I've placed them honestly the BST-2 is plenty powerful enough. What interests me a little is if I'd feel any more fidelity with the BST-1 but definitely still happy with them.
The amp featured in the video is unfortunately only two channel which is why I used a pair of them. You could link two with the same effect but if you're looking for different effects from each then you'll need to double up.
Not from the shakers themselves. I had some vibration sounds from the front ones initially until I found a way to hard mount them properly. Under my seat, because the springs are under tension when you're sitting down, there is no sound there either.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing great thank you. I was curious as they're relatively cheaper compared to the Dayton audio bts 1 model for example. I live in an apartment building but even if I didn't I still don't want any rattling as it's very distracting.
@thinkrtank991 understandable. Whilst there is no rattle, you do get vibration through the rig when turned up. Have a look at washing machine tiles to put your rig on to dampen the noise for your neighbours if it's a concern.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing thank you for reminding me, I was looking at getting some anti vibration pads on Amazon. I'm new to shakers but I imagine if you mount these things directly onto a flat surface it might cause some knocking or rattling in intense moments.
@@thinkrtank991 I'll post a short when I get a moment highlighting where all the noises come from in my rig. By far the noisiest are the wind sim and vibration pedals.
Yes, absolutely. Simhub just runs in the background in your system tray. To configure it to work with Assetto Corsa follow the instructions from the Assetto Corsa Game Configuration screen under general. In most cases it'll auto configure.
Unfortunately SimHub is purely focused on wheeled vehicles but SimShaker for Aviators might be a good option for flying. I'm afraid I don't know of options for space sims. dreamsimteam.blogspot.com/p/downloads.html
Nope, just the two under the seat for now. I did think about one at the back but it'll be difficult to mount and I'm struggling to find spare USB ports!
SimHub will need dedicated channels for the output, so if you have 4 channels available (or two if you are just doing front and rear) then you might be able to get away with it, but don't expect to be able to share the channels for your usual audio as that'll mess up the effects and most likely generate a bunch of noise in your audio channel.
J'ai zippé le bst-2 sous le siège si cela a du sens | Unfortunately my French is terrible so I had to Google translate this 😅 I use zip ties to attach the bass shakers to the underside of the chair. You can fit two side by side if you have the BST-2. Hope that helps!
Parler en anglais je traduit moi ya pas de RCA sur cette amplis y'a t'il une carte sons intégré ? J'arrive pas a avoir que les vibration du bass shaker es le sons au casque je suis sur pc es je joue au jeux de simracing
I'm thinking about buying 6 Dayton 50watts with 3 nobsound soundcard and put 1 under the pedals, 1 under seat and 4 in the corners of my rig to simulate tires. I wonder if anybody has a similar setup?
That does sound like an interesting setup, though the 50w unit might not drive much force through the rig if you are attaching them directly to the rig itself. This post on Reddit from a few years back was a guy trying to do something similar to you and he was advised to try and place them closer to the seat where possible so most of the transmission comes through his body and doesn't escape through the rig and floor. www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/i8zaf6/for_those_trying_to_decide_if_bass_shakers_are/ Whatever you decide on I really would love to see and hear about the end result!
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing Thank you for your reply. I will probably install them temporarily at different spots on my rig and see what the best options are. I also wonder if this helps with motion sickness in vr as I have a lot of people trying my rig that get motion sick.
@@simracingjunky9679 Honestly when I first had it installed it actually made the motion sickness feeling worse but that was because I had it cranked too high. You'll likely have to play with effects and levels to get to a point where you feel comfortable and that then does seem to help a bit as you feel movement on rumble strips and the like. For me the biggest factor for motion sickness in VR is the framerate, so if you are able to keep that up along with the bass shakers you should be onto a winner.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing Thanks, I don't have any issues with it but pretty much everybody else that tries my rig feels it. I run most games on high settings at a steady 80hz ( I have a 3080) but I guess that those people probably need 120 hz and to be eased in to VR before...
That’s a good video in great detail. Thanks for that. But people mention a budget set for $80 but forget to mention the $300 in tools they already have lying around that make the job way easier. Not criticizing but this may still be out of reach for many people.
That's true, I mention the tools but many of them are optional, I've gotten away with a $20 soldering iron, stripping using the kitchen scissors and a few bits and pieces back in the day so you really don't have to spend a huge amount to get these projects done, however it does make it easier with these things.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing It’s still a great video and thank you for posting. I’m a freak for tools so I have most of what you use as well, except the heat gun.
@@ultrapaiva Harbor Freight is a great place to get decent but cheap tools. I think I paid 8 dollars for a soldering iron from there and about another 10 for a helping hands
Hello Mr D J (i'll stop there as don't want to give out you full name) Iv watched you vid an am impressed. so much so im ordering parts. Just see your review for the shakers is the trigger comment. Iv found from Dayton Audio 16 ohm Bass Transducers they have no 8 ohms in stock. Iv done my home work on this and see no real problem other then a drop in Db. as is not playing sound i cant see a big difference. What do you Think? Oh of course.. Great Vid but you no that already from me since I said I'm making it haha
Hello fellow DJ ;) Glad you liked the video - I really liked working on this project so had to share! If your transducers have an impedance of 16 ohms and the amp 8 you should still be okay. From some reading I did before buying all the parts the rule of thumb is to never go above double what your amp is feeding. Let me know how you get on. The BST-2's are 4 ohms btw and I have to turn them down as at full volume they wake the family!
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing IV gone for 2x Dayton Audio TT25-16 20 -80 Hz. So 10hz off lowest end. The butt kicker goes as low as 5hz way upto 200hz, which if it was sound bass is upto 80hz then it starts to become mids. I did read iracing it goes down to 35/45hz using LFE. I'll be using sim hub and read they go down to 15hz so not losing a lot. At the moment 8 or 4 ohm transducers at 2 or 3 time more money. Oh I have the same amp. Will run just two kickers for now and add more later
@@Kagey21 I guess you'll lose a little of the detail by having to squish down into a smaller range but not a huge amount and SimHub from what I remember lets you set your frequency range for each effect so you can mitigate that low end loss. The BST-2 also tops out at 80hz, think that is fairly common and like you say further up the chain you aren't losing out on bass anyway.
How have you liked having your pucks mounted directly to the spring wire under the seat? I just set mine up today and did a thing piece of MDF under the springs then another sheet mounted to it from the bottom side with the pucks, amps, power, etc. To I thought about zip tying them on but was worried it would rattle. Would love to hear your feedback!
I was worried about the rattle too but once you are seated down the tension your added weight adds really tightens up the springs and it isn't a problem. Part of the reason I opted for this route was so they still had a little flex so the seat has some sprung movement so I'd be interested to hear how the MDF feels under seat.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing The seat with MDF feels slightly stiffer but I haven't noticed a big difference yet. Testing the shakers, they feel much stronger than the shakers against my back that aren't as solidly supported. If it bothers me I'm just going to go your route!
@@Schwipples that's interesting. I guess the springs could be absorbing some of the effect. I only run the BST-2s at about 50% right now so think I have enough headroom to counter that.
I ordered the sound card and two shakers last night. I’m starting to wonder if I need to order another star card and shakers see how to work and then I’ll go to four. I also got the pedal haptic motors they come in a couple days. Your video was great showed me a lot. I’m an old man and this seems easy enough to do for 60 year old man.
I'm glad I could help. This one should be fairly straight forward. Attach the bass shakers to your seat or rig, connect speaker wires to the sound card and plug it into the PC. The tricky part can be getting the settings how you want them in Simhub but any trouble just let me know. 💪
Instead of having 2 nearby you could have one under the pedals , and one on the back chair, it would be more beneficial because you can assign it to wheel slip on front and back.
I actually have four of them so I still have front and back, left and right. Initially I didn't feel much benefit from left and right - I could just about feel the difference but now I guess I have gotten used to the difference and it does help a little with feeling slip in either direction on the rear :)
Fantastic video! Was on the fence about ordering that DIY setup but sold now.
Glad to be of help Stuart 😁
Dude this is cool cause that means I don't have to run an amp with these just the USB sound cards thanks for the video
No problem! I came to the same realisation after first looking at Buttkickers and ruling them out because of the cost to get four up and running.
im using 2x bst2 shankers with a 2x50w amp at half volume.. the transduce gets really hot. is this normal?
They'll get warm and I definitely feel that in summer but they shouldn't get super hot. I run the ones under my seat at full volume with an amp of the same power rating and yes they feel more than warm to the touch but they definitely shouldn't burn you.
This is great, thanks Teqqles. I can see a weekend project in my near future. 😁👍🏽
Go for it!
Wow thank you very much for the detailed tutorial this will come in handy.. would you mind helping me with something, as this is all very new to me,I have just bought a simple setup to use on my PS5 and play seat challenge x, basically I bought 3 of the mini Dayton TT25 8ohm transducers and the Nobsound mini Bluetooth power amplifier with built in sound card which is 2channel and 50w and 4-8ohm.
My plan was to have one of the transducers (8ohm) under my pedals, then two transducers a on my seat, but running in parallel which I think then halves the ohms so each transducer would be 4ohm, is this safe to do I don’t want to blow out or destroy anything, any help you can give would be greatly appreciated..👍
That should be safe, though I have no experience of running any of this from the PS5 so I'm not sure how well it'll work for isolating the effects.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing hello mate, thank you for your reply.. I am all setup now, I run the amps and transducers from a laptop using simhub that’s WiFi connected to the ps5 works awesomely, happy racing 👍
@@MarcRCAddict nice 👌
Another senior sim racer here lol. Does the nobsound need a separate power supply or is it powered by usb. Thank you for vid young sir.
Welcome to the channel, Mark. Sadly, the nobsound does need a separate power supply, so having two of them means also using two mains plugs.
@Teqqlesdoessimracing thank you mate much appreciated. 👍
nice vid man keep up the good work, btw i got the same seat and 2 pair of 50watt dayton bass shakers, do you think i could just ziptie them like you did? otherwise i got to drill some holes XD. let me know👍
I think the BST-2 is perhaps as big as you can go with the zip ties. It sounds like you might have the BST-1 which is a bit larger and I'm not sure you'll fit them both in with the space provided. Zip ties have worked for me over the past couple of years though. I had to redo them once in that time, just because I have to step on my seat to make my way out of the rig and that snapped a couple from the flexing.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing alllrighty, i do have the BST-1 but il find a way to hardmount them. still thanks for your help keep it up!
@@xOverTake Have a look to see if they fit on the springs, I don't think they will but it doesn't hurt to try! For hard mounting I'd look at trying to be as close as you can to the mounting point on each side of the seat, that way you'll hopefully feel more of the effect. www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1696804917/bst-1-bass-shaker-mount-highly or something similar seems decent if you have a profile based rig.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing i will look into that, thanks man.
@@xOverTake let me know how you get in! I'm tempted to upgrade to BST-1s or something equivalent in the future but first I need to move the rig out of earshot of the wife!
Hello my friend do you think two Dayton audio bst-1 is enough as you entered or put 5 dayton audio bst-2, one per wheel and one under the butt? I have a sim lab gt1 evo. Thank you my friend
Hey Leon. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I currently run with 6 bass shakers but you could easily get away with one front and rear with the right placement. It won't give you the same kind of detail levels but it'll still do the job nicely. If you opt for that route let me know how it goes! You can always later expand to attaching some pucks to your pedals for ABS/TC too.
How about adding some rubber isolation to stop being swamped by with vibes through the chassis? Also have you ever thought of using a surround sound amp so you van use your rumble motors as well? Thanks all very interesting as I am just getting into this.
I have thought about swapping out the 2x stereo amp/sound cards for something else, perhaps I will when I rewire the rig later next year. Thanks for the feedback and sub! 💪
Thank you for the informative video. So you basically need one channel per bass shaker, is that correct? And that's why everyone is buying Nobsound because it's the cheapest two channel amp? And you just connect the amp via USB to your PC but the default audio output from your PC should remain the real headphones?
Yep, exactly that. One channel per shaker and as you want dedicated channels then a 2 channel sound card/amp per pair. You can use the additional channels from your sound card but as you'd likely need an amp then anyway the Nobsound cheaply deals with both.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing thanks. So not every amp also acts as sound card? I was just looking for an alternative because the Nobsound device is so ugly and I can't put it on the desk, but it seems that there are no real alternatives. Seems like one device for 4 channels does not exist (or very expensive). Correct? Do you have overheating issues with the Nobsound?
@@FlyingHawkic I didn't find any inexpensive 4 channel sound card/amps either 😔 the Nobsound gets warm in operation but I've not suffered overheating issues with either of them - I've done some long endurance racing too!
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing haha, I just received my bass shakers, setting it up right now myself.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing many thanks for your help. I see most people online use the Dayton BST-1, but you used the BST-2 which is only 35W instead of 50W. Would you consider that one BST-2 to the back of my racing chair and one below would be sufficient? My rig is the Playseat Sensation Pro.
Would love to know more about your effect settings for simhub. You mention feeling kerbs... is ACC providing this data? Also, really curious how to get the right feeling on 'losing the front end'. Really appreciate your effort here.
The effects come from ACC via the telemetry broadcast which can be enabled by setting up a broadcast file in your ACC folder, for example:
edit your Documents\Assetto Corsa Competizione\Config\broadcasting.json to
{
"updListenerPort": 9000,
"connectionPassword": "asd",
"commandPassword": ""
}
and then make sure those settings are matched in Simhub. Most other games have something similar and Simhub is able to give instructions for those individually.
The effects I find give you the best feel for losing the front or rear are wheel slip and wheel locking, I've provided a copy of my profile here drive.google.com/file/d/1FOEsMtYcY34LCAANx3r7s7QRWp39fOi9/view?usp=sharing which could help with getting started.
The effects I have enabled at the moment are:
Engine Vibration (10%), this gives just a low background vibration to feel the car tick over but not be overwhelmed when you're reaching the limiter.
Gear Shift (40%), gives that kick in the butt when you shift gears.
Road Impacts (100%), feedback for lumps and bumps in the road.
Road Vibration (91%), provides a feel for the road texture.
Simulated Road Texture (12%), a feeling of the tyres rolling over the road surface, changes with speed.
TC/ABS Active (100%), gives a strong vibration when traction control or ABS kicks in (these are two separate effects but they're so similar I lumped them together).
Wheels Lock (35%), localised per tyre feel for when wheels lock or slip under braking.
Wheels Slip (61%), localised slip feedback - I believe under throttle.
The percentages here are for volume strength. Hopefully that gives you some additional info :)
Great video and thanks for the zip tie tip. Would it make sense to mount a transducer to a piece of wood and than zip tie the wood to the springs? Think I‘ll try both w/ and w/o wood.
A viewer from a while back tried mounting it on wood and then against the springs and suggested the direct approach worked better for them in terms of feedback. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts if you try that route!
Thanks Teqqles, must have skipped that comment. I have a seat from OMP, so I need to check if it is similar to yours. Will post a comment hopefully next week.
@vb_matic4166 good luck, let us know how you get on with the OMP seat.
Hi Teqqles, the OMP seat required a piece of wood. But I kept it small, just a little wider than the bass shake itself. Works great.
Although I don‘t have an aluminum rig my pedal base has 40x40 extrusions (Simetik rig). This makes the pedal base too rigid for a bass shaker. I think I will remove the shaker and add an exciter to the brake pedal.
@vb_matic4166 nice! Yea, since moving to a profile based pedal tray I've really had to turn things up to feel anything. I did a DIY pedal project with motors but I'm thinking about a v2 with shaker pucks to give a bit more depth.
I have the R6 XL seat.
Just installed 2 Dayton Audio BST-1's on a wooden board and screwed it on the bottom metal frame on the chair.
Did not get the result I was hoping for.
Little effect in the chair and a lot of vibration on the floor. Does not translate well to the chair at all.
Your method is even easier to install.
At first I was thinking that it would not work because there isn't a lot of surface pressure on the bass shaker because it is more or less hanging loose.
But I guess it works.
Will try this tomorrow!
Thanks for this video, any final tips?
I think the pressure comes from your body weight compressing the springs. Hope it works out for you, the BST-1's are more powerful than what I use so I'd expect some serious rumble! Let me know how you get on!
It works perfectly! 😊
Lots of feedback in the chair and great isolation. No longer a rattling frame.
There’s only room for one underneath the seat, but it’s more than enough.
Think I’ll install the other one under the pedals somewhere.
Wanted to test everything last night, but my CSL DD got stuck in a firmware upgrade and I have to send it back to Fanatec for repair 😞
@@osiris5315 nice, I guess the BST-1 is slightly bigger than the BST-2 hence the space problem. Still good feedback is a result 👍
Great video! As a father myself with kids sleeping in the room next door. Is it worth using this with low volume so it might not bother anyone but you can still feel it decent?
Or should I expect lots of noise even at low volume? Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad you like the video. As a parent I have a similar issue to you, whilst I'm not next door to their bedroom I still have to deal with reducing noise levels. If you can mount the bass shakers directly under your seat like I have then actually you absorb most of the vibrations so I don't have to turn that down much at all and still have a lot of feedback sent my way. The pedal tray is a different matter though, I have to turn that right down and whilst I do still get a feel for what the car is telling me it isn't a patch on what you can glean from daylight hour volumes. Essentially my advice here is to make sure you attach the bass shakers as close to your person as you can and work to avoid any of those vibrations from making your rig rattle (attach them as tightly as you can to the surface you are using and try to isolate that sound from hard wood floors or between surfaces by using rubber feet or grommets). It can still be worth it if you're careful, even if it is just an attachment under your rear end!
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing Great reply thank you!
So I got a 80/20 rig with a proper racing seat, so my idea was to mount it directly under the seat. I dont feel like drilling any holes in it so either some tie straps or just some double sided tape, not sure if it would handle the vibration though. Anyways I think it should work fine because its not directly on the 80/20 part. Guess I also need to figure out how many I need, thinking one in the butt and one in the back seat.
@@TheCameltotem bucket seats are a little harder to mount. My first thoughts would be to mount it close via the seat mounting frame and isolate that from your rig so vibrations don't resonate through the whole thing. You're making me want to buy a bucket seat to experiment with 😅
can you help , ive got my bass shakers working properly now , but my simdash gear display and trackometer have stopped working , they work ok if i don’t use bass shakers , thanks
Interesting, are they all USB devices? I've had things drop out before if USB ports are overloaded
Love your videos! Keep it up. Like from ProjectSimRacing.
Thanks for the shared love man, I'll keep posting! 😀
I must be an idiot, but I have the newer version of that nobsound card and I can only get it to work via bluetooth, it wont just connect via USB. I figured bluetooth has some latency and I wanted to get rid of it. Any ideas how?
With mine it automatically detects the USB when you switch the PC on. If you can send a link for the model you have then I'll have a gander to see if there is a magic trick hidden away.
Mine comes up as a new sound card when I plug usb in.
Do you think you would get more power with it zip tied to the bottom of the seat or if I made a little plate to mount it to?
I've only tried it zip tied to the seat but others have found the closer contact zips provide gives you a heightened sense of the feedback.
It'll also be very dependent on your seats understructures 😁
I plugged mine in and it works although it takes away the audio from my speakers, is there any way to make them work together?
If you're using the nob sound or an external sound device for your bass shakers then make sure they aren't your default sound device. Set them up on SimHub and let that manage the vibrations 👍
Hello. Good job. I ordered an fosi BT30D to activ 3 bass shakers. Do you think it will be OK or should I return it. What kind of bass shaker can I use with it. Thank you very much
Sorry for taking a while to reply Geo, I'll post a video later on why I've been away from the channel. I've not used that particular amp but it might give you an odd result on the sub as it might be feeding from the same source channels as left and right speakers. Let me know how you get on though
hi, ive set up my transducers and there’s sound coming through them is there anyway i can just have them just vibrate, and use my headphones thanks
If you're running them through a different soundcard like I am with the nobsound then you can set it to just play vibration effects via software like SimHub. If you are getting other audio it sounds like they are set as your primary audio device or running through your main soundcard?
I was thinking adding two of those to the frame of my bed. Do you think I'll feel it through the mattress?
I would like it as an extra immersion tool for watching movies.
Interesting thought. People use them under the sofa, so under the bed should work to some extent. It'll depend on your bed and mattress setup, though.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing you said that they're not the strongest so that's why I'm asking.
In the effects profile why is there basically 2 of everything is that because front and rear. I have a nobsound 2 channel amp and 2 bst-1 one on pedals and other on seat.
You'll have 2 channels, with my setup I had 4 channels so it was front L/R, rear L/R, in the effects profile you can select the effects you want for either channel and for you that'll be front and rear
Is it worth getting 4? I'm thinking of starting with one on my pedal plate and one on my seat to start to see if I think it's worth it
If you just want to dip your toe in then go for exactly what you said, one on the seat and another on the pedal tray. It'll half your outlay and if you do want to then get the left and right effects you can do that at a later date. I'm just terrible at diving in at the deep end 😅
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing Thanks! Another question if you please. What rating power supply does the nobsound take? I am struggling to find information online.
@@simracer1256 the Nobsound I purchased supplies 50 watts per channel and the power brick that came with it is 12v @ 5amps but I believe it can take up to 24 volts. Hope that answers your question :)
I have a single buttkicker gamer plus
I think I'm going to do a 4x or 5x Dayton BST-1 setup and sell off the buttkicker kit
That does seem to be the way to go in order to get better feedback on a budget. Of course you can go the Buttkicker route but that can be quite the financial outlay.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing Oh yea, no way could I afford 4x buttkickers lol
What I'm looking at now are mounting options for the BST-1s
I'm using a P1X rig which is super stiff
I'm trying to figure out if a 3d printed vs aluminum mount would work best
4x aluminum mounts is about $105, 4x 3d printed are about $80.. so not much price difference
I'm assuming a piece of aluminum bolted to the side of my rig would absorb less vibration than 3d printed plast
But I am not sure if I am overthinking this..lol
@@fireonmytarget8937 let me know how you get on with that. I bought some VESA plates to mount the BST-2s but ended up drilling out the holes and mounting them directly to the profile (for the pedals)
i have 4 in total. 1 under my seat, 1 under my pedals, a puck on my throttle and puck on my break . in vr its awesome
Interesting setup. I modelled my setup on wheel positioning as far as I could but it is good to keep them close to where you'll be able to feel the forces so you get the most benefit from the feedback without it leaking too much through the chassis.
What puck did you use and how did you mount it to your pedals? What amp do you use?
Great video!
Thanks Justin!
morning, since i’ve set up my base shakers my sim racing hard ware gear and rev counter stopped working, any ideas what’s going 👍🏿
Are these all running out of the same USB hub? Off hand I can't think of much else that'd cause drop outs of your other hardware, though earlier bios revisions of AMD motherboards kept losing usb devices too
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing ive solved it thanks i swapped usb ports working fine , thanks for the help 👍🏿
@@keithmorris604 no worries. Glad that worked. USB ports are always the first thing I change these days, so many issues come from power supply or USB standard
Great info! I have a Buttkicker Gamer 2 which I already had purchased (coming from the flight sim world), and going to be mounting to my aluminum profile as close to under my seat as possible. I'm thinking about adding just 1 usb sound card and 2 of these tranducers to give me a total of 3, and then possibly add another sound card / 2 more later on if the Buttkicker doesnt provide me enough localization on the rear that I'm looking for. With this setup, would you recommend positioning the 2 up front under the pedals? Or would it make more sense to put 1 up front and another one in another position somewhere? Thanks.
Interesting setup. I'd say 2 up front so you have a better idea of which wheel is locking up. The buttkicker has a little more grunt I believe so I think you're right to put it under the seat where you can feel it most but try and place it closer to you so you don't lose too much of the effect.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing Thanks, 1 more question. Between the BST-2 that you own and now have been using. Are you still happy with them or would you have opted for the BST-1? Debating between these 2 atm. Might even add a few rubber washers in between rig and transducer.
@@sincity_steve where I've placed them honestly the BST-2 is plenty powerful enough. What interests me a little is if I'd feel any more fidelity with the BST-1 but definitely still happy with them.
great vid, can i run four transducers off the amp your using
The amp featured in the video is unfortunately only two channel which is why I used a pair of them. You could link two with the same effect but if you're looking for different effects from each then you'll need to double up.
Is there any rattling or knocking from these shakers?
Not from the shakers themselves. I had some vibration sounds from the front ones initially until I found a way to hard mount them properly. Under my seat, because the springs are under tension when you're sitting down, there is no sound there either.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing great thank you. I was curious as they're relatively cheaper compared to the Dayton audio bts 1 model for example. I live in an apartment building but even if I didn't I still don't want any rattling as it's very distracting.
@thinkrtank991 understandable. Whilst there is no rattle, you do get vibration through the rig when turned up. Have a look at washing machine tiles to put your rig on to dampen the noise for your neighbours if it's a concern.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing thank you for reminding me, I was looking at getting some anti vibration pads on Amazon. I'm new to shakers but I imagine if you mount these things directly onto a flat surface it might cause some knocking or rattling in intense moments.
@@thinkrtank991 I'll post a short when I get a moment highlighting where all the noises come from in my rig. By far the noisiest are the wind sim and vibration pedals.
Hi,,was planning to build bass shaker using simhub,,can i use the simhub and play assetto corsa using content manager at the same time? Thanks
Yes, absolutely. Simhub just runs in the background in your system tray. To configure it to work with Assetto Corsa follow the instructions from the Assetto Corsa Game Configuration screen under general. In most cases it'll auto configure.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing thanks mate😊
Just curious guys would this work on space ship or flight sim games too with sim hub ?
Unfortunately SimHub is purely focused on wheeled vehicles but SimShaker for Aviators might be a good option for flying. I'm afraid I don't know of options for space sims. dreamsimteam.blogspot.com/p/downloads.html
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing thank you 👍👍
Can anyone tell me how to use these with ps5. i was even told u can use simhub if u run it through ur laptop 1st . HELP PLEASE
Now how do i use a haptic vest with fallout 4
do u have other base shaker on the back of your seat?
Nope, just the two under the seat for now. I did think about one at the back but it'll be difficult to mount and I'm struggling to find spare USB ports!
Can I use my main amplifier for this?
SimHub will need dedicated channels for the output, so if you have 4 channels available (or two if you are just doing front and rear) then you might be able to get away with it, but don't expect to be able to share the channels for your usual audio as that'll mess up the effects and most likely generate a bunch of noise in your audio channel.
Bonjours j'ai exactement le même matériel que toi j'aimerai savoir coment la tu brancher es coment régler merci
J'ai zippé le bst-2 sous le siège si cela a du sens | Unfortunately my French is terrible so I had to Google translate this 😅 I use zip ties to attach the bass shakers to the underside of the chair. You can fit two side by side if you have the BST-2. Hope that helps!
Parler en anglais je traduit moi ya pas de RCA sur cette amplis y'a t'il une carte sons intégré ? J'arrive pas a avoir que les vibration du bass shaker es le sons au casque je suis sur pc es je joue au jeux de simracing
can i use the bluetooth nobsound amplifier
I don't see why not. The ones I have are Bluetooth enabled but I run them wired as I'm paranoid about any additional latency.
I'm thinking about buying 6 Dayton 50watts with 3 nobsound soundcard and put 1 under the pedals, 1 under seat and 4 in the corners of my rig to simulate tires. I wonder if anybody has a similar setup?
That does sound like an interesting setup, though the 50w unit might not drive much force through the rig if you are attaching them directly to the rig itself. This post on Reddit from a few years back was a guy trying to do something similar to you and he was advised to try and place them closer to the seat where possible so most of the transmission comes through his body and doesn't escape through the rig and floor. www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/i8zaf6/for_those_trying_to_decide_if_bass_shakers_are/
Whatever you decide on I really would love to see and hear about the end result!
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing Thank you for your reply. I will probably install them temporarily at different spots on my rig and see what the best options are. I also wonder if this helps with motion sickness in vr as I have a lot of people trying my rig that get motion sick.
@@simracingjunky9679 Honestly when I first had it installed it actually made the motion sickness feeling worse but that was because I had it cranked too high. You'll likely have to play with effects and levels to get to a point where you feel comfortable and that then does seem to help a bit as you feel movement on rumble strips and the like. For me the biggest factor for motion sickness in VR is the framerate, so if you are able to keep that up along with the bass shakers you should be onto a winner.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing Thanks, I don't have any issues with it but pretty much everybody else that tries my rig feels it. I run most games on high settings at a steady 80hz ( I have a 3080) but I guess that those people probably need 120 hz and to be eased in to VR before...
Thanks Man
That’s a good video in great detail. Thanks for that. But people mention a budget set for $80 but forget to mention the $300 in tools they already have lying around that make the job way easier. Not criticizing but this may still be out of reach for many people.
That's true, I mention the tools but many of them are optional, I've gotten away with a $20 soldering iron, stripping using the kitchen scissors and a few bits and pieces back in the day so you really don't have to spend a huge amount to get these projects done, however it does make it easier with these things.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing It’s still a great video and thank you for posting. I’m a freak for tools so I have most of what you use as well, except the heat gun.
@@ultrapaiva thanks, glad you enjoyed the project. Honestly I rarely use a heat gun, I used to steal the wife's hair drier 😅
@@ultrapaiva Harbor Freight is a great place to get decent but cheap tools. I think I paid 8 dollars for a soldering iron from there and about another 10 for a helping hands
cool video
Thanks 😊
Hello Mr D J (i'll stop there as don't want to give out you full name) Iv watched you vid an am impressed. so much so im ordering parts. Just see your review for the shakers is the trigger comment. Iv found from Dayton Audio 16 ohm Bass Transducers they have no 8 ohms in stock. Iv done my home work on this and see no real problem other then a drop in Db. as is not playing sound i cant see a big difference.
What do you Think?
Oh of course.. Great Vid but you no that already from me since I said I'm making it haha
Hello fellow DJ ;) Glad you liked the video - I really liked working on this project so had to share! If your transducers have an impedance of 16 ohms and the amp 8 you should still be okay. From some reading I did before buying all the parts the rule of thumb is to never go above double what your amp is feeding. Let me know how you get on. The BST-2's are 4 ohms btw and I have to turn them down as at full volume they wake the family!
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing IV gone for 2x Dayton Audio TT25-16 20 -80 Hz. So 10hz off lowest end. The butt kicker goes as low as 5hz way upto 200hz, which if it was sound bass is upto 80hz then it starts to become mids.
I did read iracing it goes down to 35/45hz using LFE. I'll be using sim hub and read they go down to 15hz so not losing a lot.
At the moment 8 or 4 ohm transducers at 2 or 3 time more money.
Oh I have the same amp. Will run just two kickers for now and add more later
@@Kagey21 I guess you'll lose a little of the detail by having to squish down into a smaller range but not a huge amount and SimHub from what I remember lets you set your frequency range for each effect so you can mitigate that low end loss. The BST-2 also tops out at 80hz, think that is fairly common and like you say further up the chain you aren't losing out on bass anyway.
How have you liked having your pucks mounted directly to the spring wire under the seat? I just set mine up today and did a thing piece of MDF under the springs then another sheet mounted to it from the bottom side with the pucks, amps, power, etc. To I thought about zip tying them on but was worried it would rattle. Would love to hear your feedback!
I was worried about the rattle too but once you are seated down the tension your added weight adds really tightens up the springs and it isn't a problem. Part of the reason I opted for this route was so they still had a little flex so the seat has some sprung movement so I'd be interested to hear how the MDF feels under seat.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing The seat with MDF feels slightly stiffer but I haven't noticed a big difference yet. Testing the shakers, they feel much stronger than the shakers against my back that aren't as solidly supported. If it bothers me I'm just going to go your route!
@@Schwipples that's interesting. I guess the springs could be absorbing some of the effect. I only run the BST-2s at about 50% right now so think I have enough headroom to counter that.
@@Teqqlesdoessimracing Moved mine to the springs with zip ties, waaaay better. Thank you for the inspiration!
@@Schwipples glad to be of some help!