Designing a clock face in LightBurn for your laser engraving.
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- Опубликовано: 21 июл 2024
- In this video I show step-by-step instructions designing a generic clock face in LightBurn for your laser engraving projects. No designing with artwork. Just a quick demonstration on creating a clock face that you can use as a foundation to create a truly unique project of your own. There are links to the clock mechanisms I but on Amazon below.
Clock Mechanism link
amzn.to/3UKklcB
www.amazon.com/P9-M40-0-02mm%...
This is a link to Atomstack's website:
bit.ly/3Npdvqm
Direct link to product information:
bit.ly/3Npdvqm
Comgrow Desktop Laser Engraver Enclosure
comgrow.com?sca_ref=2371201.vKKgJkmeBZ
Perfect paper for cutting with your laser.
Hammermill Cardstock, Premium Color Copy, 32 lb, 11" x 17"-1 Pack (250 Sheets) - 100 Bright, Made in the USA Card Stock, 120024R
amzn.to/3SXfZNN
Chapters
0:00 Intro
1:15 Create Tool Paths
2:20 Adding Numbers
3:25 Using Circular Array
5:15 Editing Numbers
6:45 Hourly Ref Marks
9:15 Minutes Ref Marks
13:30 Scalable Image
14:04 Clock Mechanism
15:10 Must Know Tip
16:15 Use Your Preview
18:40 Patreon Is Coming
19:20 Quick Design Tip
![Can A Diode Laser Engrave Clear Acrylic?? [YES, but not without this]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m_FwZVADOq4/mqdefault.jpg)
![Can A Diode Laser Engrave Clear Acrylic?? [YES, but not without this]](/img/tr.png)
This is the type of stuff I love to do in LightBurn. This information is valuable for everyone using LighBurn regardless of the type of laser you're using.
I'm glad I found you video. Every time I think I'm getting the hang of lightburn, I find another video that teaches me something again. I was designing a clock and I had it within a circle and used rectangles to get the tick marks but I didn't like that the rectangles didn't follow the circle. your way eliminates the problem I was having also didn't know you could type equations in the measurements. so anyway thank you!
Awesome, thank you!
Very thorough and easy to follow along. Thank you!
Great tutorial thanks for taking the time to make this video 👍
I learned so much from this. Thank you!
thank you steve really appreciate it
It's been a while since I've looked at this video. Did it help? Do you still have any questions?
Wow thank you for that tip! Never thought to check that. Will save a ton of time.
Happy to help! Quick tips like checking the preview are hidden gems in a lot of my videos. All the reason you shouldn't miss any and not jump around while watching them. My brain does enough jumping around and you'll liable to miss a big tip if you do. As always, thanks for watching.
Thank you for a good tutorial.
Glad you liked it
Great session.
Thank you.
Great tutorial thank you 👍😎
My pleasure! I appreciate you watching.
Very helpful video
Thanks..good educational video!
Glad it was helpful!
This was a great tutorial. New subscriber alert. Lol
Yay! Thank you! I will be live tonight on youtube.com/@lasermakersrealm at 9 PM EDT
Good tutorial. Looks like you hit your number of subscribers needed for monetization. Good luck with your channel. Good tip reminder about looking at preview and then trying the different ways of filling.
Thanks so much! Thanks for watching.
Nice clock face
Thank you.
To cut this clock out do you change the tool path lines to cut for it to work, no video of you cutting it out.
I didn't cut it out. I purchase rounds for my clocks. I don't like using the thin ply for my clock faces. When I see rounds at the dollar store or on sale at the craft stores, I grab them for clock faces.
Great video, but I have a quick question, depending on the mechanism of the clock, how do you know the size required?
The size of what? The inner hole diameter is detemined by the clock mech, and the size of the face is determined by the length of the clock hands.
@@HoboWithWood ok, for instance for the clock you have linked in Amazon what will be the size of the clock?
The description on Amazon says the minute hand is 5 1/4" long. So a clock face that was 10 1/2" would put the end of the minute hand at the edge of the clock face.
@@HoboWithWood thanks, great tip, very appreciated, I will convert to metric 🤣
Following this video my numbers come out in out line were as yours are in black, how can I get mine to be solid all the time.
It sounds like you're using "line" mode instead of "fill" mode.
Trying to follow this BUT IN layers it has no MULTI, in Circular Array the numbers do not appear when I open it, I am using version 1.4.01, there seems a few things have changed, in Cuts/Layers there is only 3 options now Line, Fill, Offset Fill what ever that doe's.
I few questions/problems here. First. When you see MULTI in the layers, there are multiple layers within that layer. This shows up when you are using sublayers on a layer. Sublayers are created within the layer settings. If you open a layer settings, on the top right, just under the output selector, you will see a plus and minus sign. This is to create sublayers in that layer. I use this most often to do a "Line" after doing a "Fill". This is to cleanup the perimeter of an engraving and add definition to the design. It works great. As to you numbers not appearing in Circular Array, without seeing what you are doing I can't be sure. But if you watch enough of my videos you will hear me say it often, in Lightburn, prioroties matter. The obect you want to create a circular array of must be selected first. Then while holding the shift key select the object you want it to circle. Then set you settings in the array tool. IF you select the number last, the second object selected will encircle the one and only number, instead of the number being duplicated in a circular array. OR , if you failed to hold the shift key when selecting the second object after selecting the number, you won't see any numbers. Which may be what you are experiencing. As to the last thing mentioned I have a video that explains the Line, Fill and Offest Fill. (there is another one that is sorta hidden, Flood Fill.) Here's a link to a video that might help a little with those. (These are some of my older videos, forgive the production value.) ruclips.net/video/nsqkuSYlRV0/видео.html I hope the answered some of your questions.
when welding the minute lines to the hour lines is the entire clock still grouped together? i cant select the mins and hour lines when they are grouped, when i ungroup them and select the hour and min line i dont have the option to weld them together, i know im missing something simple on it any idea?
I'm sorry. Without seeing firsthand what you're doing and how things are layered and/or grouped, it's hard to suggest a solution. I'm contemplating offering live remote assistance. Would you be interested in that?
@Hobo With Wood it was an issue with the layers that caused the issue, I got it sorted, I also included a graphic on the clock face 17 hour burn time thanks to yours and rich videos got it down to 1 hrs 21 mins 😀
I was thinking it may have been layer related, but without seeing it, recommendations for a solution were hard to come by.
Glad you got it sorted and found the huge time savings.
@Hobo With Wood remote assistance a good idea I'm still struggling with canvas working on slate at the moment and have orders in hoping to get a co2 in few months when I'm up to grade in lightburn