This video is getting really good reviews and people are watching it in its entirety. I don't know if it's because it's that good or it was the threat of coming to your house.
Steve, I watched the other video and was anticipating this one. Great content and tips. You are so right about the hint of the shadow selling the illusion. Wish I could give you five 👍👍👍👍👍 on YT.
I have found your videos to be VERY helpful and informative !!! I am brand new too ALL of this, so I have definitely been hanging around for the ‘end’ 😂THANKS HOBO !! You rock!
Steve, this is awesome info! Now I just need to play around with it. And yes, I did watch till the end. 😉 I was thinking how I could make this work on acrylic. I have just started playing with this material, and I'm not sure how to vary the look, as it doesn't work quite like wood.
Glad it was helpful! I played with marking the clear acrylic a little in the beginning of my laser adventures. I have some older videos that might be worth your time to watch. I got pretty good at it. I talk about how to use the LPI to vary the look and create the different textures to different layers. Using the primer coated steel to produce the desired engravings. Lots of good stuff in my older videos.
@HoboWithWood , I went back and watched your "Yoda" video... that turned out great. I'm running a 130 watt C02 laser, so I shouldn't have the same struggles as you with the paint and such. I think my first game would be to just do a test grid and get some info to go with. Currently I have what I think is a perfect engrave as it's just barely into the material with a nice frosty look. Time to go play..lol. Thanks for bringing us this great content!
I'm glad you did, and you were the first to post that you did. So here ya go. 🌟⭐🌟 I can promise you I will be getting emails asking why they can't see the offset after the adjusted the size of the image. And wanting to know why the illusion isn't that noticeable because they didn't vary the power levels on the engravings and one looks just like the other.
LOL I would almost pay you to come to my house for wkend to teach! But on to my question.. I understand turning the power down for the shadow.. but why the speed too? Even at a lower burn, the slower speed means more contact time for the laser per spot ie... .080 is my smallest laser beam.. does that make sense.. ps.. I left ya a little somethin to get ya some coffee and biscuits!! xx
The best analogy I come think of, and don't try this at home, is passing a lit match beneath a piece of paper. The further the page is from the paper equates to lowering the power.For the match to have any effect on the paper the further away the match gets, the slower it has to go. And the effect it does have will be minor compared to holding the match against the paper even at twice the speed. When you only want a light marking on the material AND you want the highest details... low and slow. I do this mainly as a detailed "clean-up" line after fill or wanting to create shadows. Does that make any sense to you?
nicely done Steve. question: there is white space between the letter and the shadow in some places, where in other places the shadow touches the letter. how can we make the shadow always touch the letter - smaller incremental movements between duplicates? thanks
That variable is what creates the illusion of it truly being a shadow and the text being on a different plane than the shadow. To do what you're asking, when moving the first duplicate, simply move it in smaller increments and possibly one in one direction. That would create more of an embossed look. Kinda like the previous video I shared making embossed fonts. But Think about your shadow when standing in the sun. You're shadow only comes into contact with your feet. The white space is the desired outcome I'm looking for in this design.
I need you to come to my house. I am doing it your way but not getting the same results. I am getting lost at the two duplications. I press control+d twice like you said,, then down and right arrows five times. I then select and I can't see the second duplicate. the duplicate just moved but where is the second duplicate. I do not see it. I rewatched your video several time to the end and I still can't figure it out.
Hey Steve, after a good nights sleep I came back to this and figured out a work around. While I still can't figure out how to select the different copies, I made just one copy. Then put that on a different layer. Then I moved cursor five times down and right. Then I selected the original and made the second copy and then put that on a separate layer. Problem solved. But if you get a chance if you can tell me if there is an easy way of selecting copy one vs copy 2. Thanks
When creating duplicates, the last piece created will always be on top and you cannot select any other piece except the top piece when pieces are stacked on top of another. Putting them on different layers will help. But you can still only select the piece on top of the stack. Think of it like a stack of waffles. You eat the second waffle in the stack without doing something with the first one. If you put each copy on it's own layer and just continued to make duplicates putting each own it layer. Without moving them you will only be able to see and select the topmost or most recent duplicate. You can however bring different layers to the top of the stack by simply changing the priority of the layers in the cut/layers editor. As you move the layer down in the priority list it brings it closer to the top of the stack. Once you've moved a layer to the very bottom of the priority list, it will be on top of the stack in the workspace.
If it was on the same layer and power settings, the most likely cause is a variation in the wood. Welcome to the joys of burning wood. I'd bet if you haven't already tried it, doing the exact same image on a different piece of wood would not yield the same results.
If you've watched my channel enough, you know I am not a fan of the xTool. I started with the same laser you have. And not knowing anything about lasers, I didn't recognize all the problems I was having that were laser quality related. BUT, take a look at your overscanning setting on the layer you noticed the issue with. If the overscanning is off, turn it on. Be sure to have the material centered in the workbed. If you try to do a job where the overscanning is going to want to send the laser out-of-bounds, it will have a less than desirable outcome or simply have errors and stop. When enabled, overscanning, adds extra moves to the beginning and end of each line to give the laser time to speed up before firing, and slow down afterward. If your machine has low acceleration or you see darker burns at the sides of your fills, you may need to increase the amount of overscanning. Let me know what you learn.
Hello Steve. I follow your video instructions (also watched it to the end), but my engraving did not work!!!! The laser engraved the offset on the first and last letter. the middle letters it showed no offset. The shadows were completely missed for the middle letters as well! Any thoughts. I have pictures but this site does not support attaching pictures.
First question. If you watch the preview, does it show your desired output? If not, that tells you there's an issue with the design. If so, there's an issue with the laser. Let me know. You can email me pics at hobowithwood@gmail.com.
@@HoboWithWood yes It did I had to update the firmware and kept working with your instructions Eventually I got it to look like it supposed to! Thanks for following up with me!
Immediately after using the Boolean tool to make the subtraction, while the difference created is still selected, simply click on the desired layer to assign it.
This video is getting really good reviews and people are watching it in its entirety. I don't know if it's because it's that good or it was the threat of coming to your house.
The threat of coming to my house...😂...Great informative video!!!
I ain't afraid of you coming to my house!, I'll put you to work!
I struggled with this exact issue last night. With a cup of coffee this morning, I watched the entire video and solved my problem! Thanks.
Great tutorial sir, you explained that perfectly, thank you
making my first print now with it. it's actually my first engraving / cut with my laser
falcon 2 pro 22w
Great video and I’m just above gnat level but not to grasshopper level 😊
Makes my eyes water! I love it!
Steve, I watched the other video and was anticipating this one. Great content and tips. You are so right about the hint of the shadow selling the illusion. Wish I could give you five 👍👍👍👍👍 on YT.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Outstanding video, Thank You for all that you do for us.😀🛫I watched the video twice all the way to the end🤣
Awesome! Thank you for watching. I glad you find my "style" of teaching how I use Lightburn helpful.
I have found your videos to be VERY helpful and informative !!! I am brand new too ALL of this, so I have definitely been hanging around for the ‘end’ 😂THANKS HOBO !! You rock!
You are so welcome!
Great video. You just gained another sub.
Welcome aboard!
Brilliant steve thank you
I am so glad Rich turned me on to your channel. Excellent !!!!
Me too! Welcome to the party!
Another great one Steve. Thanks
Very welcome
Thanks for sharing. Learned a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks a lot, awesome tip. Trying it right now
Have fun!
Steve, this is awesome info! Now I just need to play around with it. And yes, I did watch till the end. 😉 I was thinking how I could make this work on acrylic. I have just started playing with this material, and I'm not sure how to vary the look, as it doesn't work quite like wood.
Glad it was helpful! I played with marking the clear acrylic a little in the beginning of my laser adventures. I have some older videos that might be worth your time to watch. I got pretty good at it. I talk about how to use the LPI to vary the look and create the different textures to different layers. Using the primer coated steel to produce the desired engravings. Lots of good stuff in my older videos.
@HoboWithWood , I went back and watched your "Yoda" video... that turned out great.
I'm running a 130 watt C02 laser, so I shouldn't have the same struggles as you with the paint and such. I think my first game would be to just do a test grid and get some info to go with. Currently I have what I think is a perfect engrave as it's just barely into the material with a nice frosty look. Time to go play..lol. Thanks for bringing us this great content!
Don't forget to play with the LPI. You may find you can use a much lower LPI in fill mode to create a look you really like.
Another great video, it gets a thumbs up from me👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks!
Welcome!
Great video very informative
Glad it was helpful!
Neat idea.
I think so too!
Great Lesson Brother! Thank you. You are welcome to come to our home. I appreciate you. I have Subscribed and checked the notification bell.
So simple when you how
Steve I did it I watched until the end, do I get a gold star for being the first one?
I'm glad you did, and you were the first to post that you did. So here ya go. 🌟⭐🌟 I can promise you I will be getting emails asking why they can't see the offset after the adjusted the size of the image. And wanting to know why the illusion isn't that noticeable because they didn't vary the power levels on the engravings and one looks just like the other.
What is the reason for two duplications?
LOL I would almost pay you to come to my house for wkend to teach! But on to my question.. I understand turning the power down for the shadow.. but why the speed too? Even at a lower burn, the slower speed means more contact time for the laser per spot ie... .080 is my smallest laser beam.. does that make sense.. ps.. I left ya a little somethin to get ya some coffee and biscuits!! xx
The best analogy I come think of, and don't try this at home, is passing a lit match beneath a piece of paper. The further the page is from the paper equates to lowering the power.For the match to have any effect on the paper the further away the match gets, the slower it has to go. And the effect it does have will be minor compared to holding the match against the paper even at twice the speed. When you only want a light marking on the material AND you want the highest details... low and slow. I do this mainly as a detailed "clean-up" line after fill or wanting to create shadows. Does that make any sense to you?
nicely done Steve. question: there is white space between the letter and the shadow in some places, where in other places the shadow touches the letter. how can we make the shadow always touch the letter - smaller incremental movements between duplicates? thanks
That variable is what creates the illusion of it truly being a shadow and the text being on a different plane than the shadow. To do what you're asking, when moving the first duplicate, simply move it in smaller increments and possibly one in one direction. That would create more of an embossed look. Kinda like the previous video I shared making embossed fonts. But Think about your shadow when standing in the sun. You're shadow only comes into contact with your feet. The white space is the desired outcome I'm looking for in this design.
I need you to come to my house. I am doing it your way but not getting the same results. I am getting lost at the two duplications. I press control+d twice like you said,, then down and right arrows five times. I then select and I can't see the second duplicate. the duplicate just moved but where is the second duplicate. I do not see it. I rewatched your video several time to the end and I still can't figure it out.
Hey Steve, after a good nights sleep I came back to this and figured out a work around. While I still can't figure out how to select the different copies, I made just one copy. Then put that on a different layer. Then I moved cursor five times down and right. Then I selected the original and made the second copy and then put that on a separate layer. Problem solved. But if you get a chance if you can tell me if there is an easy way of selecting copy one vs copy 2.
Thanks
When creating duplicates, the last piece created will always be on top and you cannot select any other piece except the top piece when pieces are stacked on top of another. Putting them on different layers will help. But you can still only select the piece on top of the stack. Think of it like a stack of waffles. You eat the second waffle in the stack without doing something with the first one. If you put each copy on it's own layer and just continued to make duplicates putting each own it layer. Without moving them you will only be able to see and select the topmost or most recent duplicate. You can however bring different layers to the top of the stack by simply changing the priority of the layers in the cut/layers editor. As you move the layer down in the priority list it brings it closer to the top of the stack. Once you've moved a layer to the very bottom of the priority list, it will be on top of the stack in the workspace.
@@HoboWithWood Thanks for the update.
I'll give it another try
Thanks for the great effect lesson!! when I burned my name Timothy the shadowing was darker on the first and last letters what could cause that?
If it was on the same layer and power settings, the most likely cause is a variation in the wood. Welcome to the joys of burning wood. I'd bet if you haven't already tried it, doing the exact same image on a different piece of wood would not yield the same results.
@@HoboWithWood I didn't try a different piece. I had it on 2 layers but I can see the head slow up on the ends.
What laser are you using? It sounds like it might be something to do with overscanning.
@@HoboWithWood xtool d1 10w
If you've watched my channel enough, you know I am not a fan of the xTool. I started with the same laser you have. And not knowing anything about lasers, I didn't recognize all the problems I was having that were laser quality related. BUT, take a look at your overscanning setting on the layer you noticed the issue with. If the overscanning is off, turn it on. Be sure to have the material centered in the workbed. If you try to do a job where the overscanning is going to want to send the laser out-of-bounds, it will have a less than desirable outcome or simply have errors and stop. When enabled, overscanning, adds extra moves to the beginning and end of each line to give the laser time to speed up before firing, and slow down afterward. If your machine has low acceleration or you see darker burns at the sides of your fills, you may need to increase the amount of overscanning. Let me know what you learn.
Hello Steve I saw a video where you distorted and made cool-looking letters/words. I can't find it. Could you provide me with the link?
This one? ruclips.net/video/scdC75dQUN0/видео.html
Hello Steve. I follow your video instructions (also watched it to the end), but my engraving did not work!!!! The laser engraved the offset on the first and last letter. the middle letters it showed no offset. The shadows were completely missed for the middle letters as well! Any thoughts. I have pictures but this site does not support attaching pictures.
First question.
If you watch the preview, does it show your desired output? If not, that tells you there's an issue with the design. If so, there's an issue with the laser. Let me know. You can email me pics at hobowithwood@gmail.com.
@@HoboWithWood yes It did
I had to update the firmware and kept working with your instructions
Eventually I got it to look like it supposed to!
Thanks for following up with me!
Thanks for the great tutorial. How do you get the fill in a new layer?
Immediately after using the Boolean tool to make the subtraction, while the difference created is still selected, simply click on the desired layer to assign it.
@@HoboWithWood thank you so much! I’m new to Lightburn. I appreciate your help and tutorials!
Don't be intimidated by it and remember you can always hit that undo button. Don't hesitate to hit me up with questions. Thanks for watching.
do it my way or else!
I think the threats worked. This has been one of my best performing videos to date. Audience retention is much higher on this one.
Earned my sub