*FYI* I have done several iterations of these rulers since this video. My favorite is the double-sided metric & standard on the same ruler! These are prototypes. If you make these, use a hardwood like Oak.
I teach woodturning at a local technical college. Each of my students gets a 6" ruler, made on my laser engraver. My rulers are unique ... one side is self-centering, the other side reads left-to-right, and both sides are done in both metric and imperial. I engrave on 1/8" hard maple ... people like them!
Mine were prototypes, to verify settings and measurements Gerald. The final versions are oak. I have created the template for both standard and metric on one side, but I never thought of a centering ruler! 👍 Now you know I'm going to "borrow" that idea! 🤪
Hi Rich. A couple suggestions. Wood only expands/contracts across the grain, so folks should be sure to create their rule with the grain running the long direction. Also, a very helpful tool is a center-finding rule, Find the center of your rule blank and set it at "0" then use the array in both directions. I use a center-finding rule almost every day to align my wood center with the center of the file I'm going to cut.
Your channel is awesome. The difference between a rule and a ruler is that space from the edge. Draftsmen and architects like rulers woodworkers and carpenters like rules!
Thanks Rich, I did not realize that the "anchor point" tool worked during the design phase; I thought it was just for starting laser position. This is going to be a huge help in the design process.
Just made mine, used the anchor point several times to resize over all hight without distorting the measurement lines and also to resize the lines. I am thinking about offering them for sale to the members of our woodturning club, for club funds. Thanks again Rich.
Thanks Rich, as usual I learnt something from your video. As a woodturner you have given me the idea for making a ruler, that would be upside down from yours. So, I can read the measurement's whilst holding the ruler over a work piece on the lathe.
Anchor point is a good name for it. Last year I needed a 6" ruler so I made one. Then I made a bunch more with my logo and phone number on them to give away at craft fairs. Since they are small I can make them using wood that is left over from the stock I use to make business cards
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I use rock maple, some call it hard maple. When I designed my ruler I put inches and metric on the same side and started them both on the left. That way I can convert inches to metric at a glance. I don't have any scrap wood, I have inventory.
Thanks for another excellent video, Rich. If you mirror the inch markings to put them toward the bottom of the ruler and align the '0' ends of the two scales, you get a handy 'metric-to-inches' converter. Especially useful for those who didn't grow up with both systems.
I already discovered how invaluable the anchor tool was when making tabs, make sure it's set to the top middle and you can tweek the depth and width of a tab or slot, top right for the right corner, top left for the left corner, managed to make my tabs perfect with kerf... too perfect, had to add some slop in so I could glue :D
Yes! And better yet, if you look at my slots and tabs video, use the center point, double the size, and you can slide them on the line at the exact center, or create an array after the first one is positioned. When you weld them, they come out perfect.
Like this, I have wanted to make rulers for quite awhile but was afraid they would not be to proper scale. How did you populate the tick marks? Rich, I feel you have left out some important info on this video. I am very confused.
Thanks for the video Rich. That anchor point tip will be very useful. Coincidentally I recently made a engine timing disc which I printed on card. The graduation markets were very similar to your ruler. A long mark, then a shorter half mark and then the small marks. I thought I was being efficient by using the array tool to duplicate each type of mark around the disk. The problem was that the half marks also had the small marks and the major marks also had the other 2 marks,. Whilst this is fine for a drawing, when it comes to engraving, lines under other lines result in double or triple burning and unsatisfactory results. I tried a tool or feature which is supposed to stop that happening. e.g. for placing shapes tight to each other and only cutting the joining line once. However that just didn't work for the measurement scale. Perhaps it only works for things like boxes?
Thanks I've checked that the "remove overlapping lines" switch is ON and I've tried setting the distance at the maximum 2mm and the minimum 0.001mm, but simple lines just burn on top of each other. However, when I test 2 squares with one coincident edge, the software only burns that edge once as you would expect. Further experimentation shows that if you draw a line and duplicate it without moving it, the feature works as you would expect and you only burn one line. However if you shorten the duplicated line (keeping vertical and inline with the original line for example) the feature doesn't work. By the way if you want to try this, you can use "Preview" and not actually burn.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy i notice the cfm is a little over 200. Is this higher than the exhaust fan in the lasermatic? Would like to eliminate the existing exhaust fan as it does not do a very adequate job. Also, I would like to add a charcoal filter to help mitigate some of the oder. Would adding the filter imped the cfm? And if it does would it be better to size up to maybe one of the 6 inch ones with higher rating?
Send the email to support@rolyautomation.com. Right now Leo is traveling in Canada visiting his parents, and then to IL for the Lightburn convention. But don't worry, you only put down a $100 deposit if you pre-ordred. If you paid the full amount, email me and I'll text him.
The job origin is on the laser tab. This, what I call Anchor Points, is essentially the same thing, but it *doesn't change* the job origin of the laser. I guess you could call it a work space origin.
Instead of showing bits and pieces of a ruler that is already made, Could you just show the process (without lines already drawn) from start to finish - in less than a minute of course😁
*FYI* I have done several iterations of these rulers since this video. My favorite is the double-sided metric & standard on the same ruler! These are prototypes. If you make these, use a hardwood like Oak.
I teach woodturning at a local technical college. Each of my students gets a 6" ruler, made on my laser engraver. My rulers are unique ... one side is self-centering, the other side reads left-to-right, and both sides are done in both metric and imperial. I engrave on 1/8" hard maple ... people like them!
Mine were prototypes, to verify settings and measurements Gerald. The final versions are oak. I have created the template for both standard and metric on one side, but I never thought of a centering ruler! 👍 Now you know I'm going to "borrow" that idea! 🤪
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy In my world, it is called "research"!😉
I love your tuition style. It's fun & informative!
Thank you so much!
Thanks Rich, i think you've mentioned it before, I did know about this but forgot. A protractor would be good to try.
Easy peasy!
@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy yep, just tried it, circular array tool.
Hi Rich. A couple suggestions. Wood only expands/contracts across the grain, so folks should be sure to create their rule with the grain running the long direction. Also, a very helpful tool is a center-finding rule, Find the center of your rule blank and set it at "0" then use the array in both directions. I use a center-finding rule almost every day to align my wood center with the center of the file I'm going to cut.
Thanks for the tips Steve!
I didn't know that about the anchor point. Great tip. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Your channel is awesome. The difference between a rule and a ruler is that space from the edge. Draftsmen and architects like rulers woodworkers and carpenters like rules!
Awesome info! I did not know that, thank you! 👍
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy it’s one of millions of useless bits of information I have cluttering up my pea brain
Another great video Rich 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for the tutorial on this tool. It will be a great help for my projects. You are a star. Good to see a new fresh tutorial.
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
You are great. I find 95 percent of what I want to do from your videos. keep up the great work. It is truly appreciated on the interweb!!!
Awesome! Thank you Dylan!
Thanks Rich, I did not realize that the "anchor point" tool worked during the design phase; I thought it was just for starting laser position. This is going to be a huge help in the design process.
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Thanks rich, very helpful as always 😊
Glad you think so Dave!
Thanks Rich, That is extremely helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
I have been learning so much. Thank you!
Happy to help!
Thanks Rich!!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks! That anchor point feature is something I've passively wished existed for a while. I'm thrilled to learn this!
Awesome Claire, thanks for the support! 👍
learnt something today - thanks again!
Glad to hear it!
Wow. I learn something new in each video. Thanks!
Glad to hear it Dave!
Thanks. Haven't used that tool yet. Thanks .
No problem 👍
Hi Rich, thanks for this video! If I would have known this sooner it sure would have saved me a bit of time, appreciate all you do!
Glad to help!
Thanks Rich. So simple, but very helpful.
Glad you liked it Bill.
Just made mine, used the anchor point several times to resize over all hight without distorting the measurement lines and also to resize the lines. I am thinking about offering them for sale to the members of our woodturning club, for club funds. Thanks again Rich.
Awesome! Have fun with it Ian! 👍
Expanded my knowledge as to what else this is uses for.
Awesome Carl! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Thanks Rich, as usual I learnt something from your video. As a woodturner you have given me the idea for making a ruler, that would be upside down from yours. So, I can read the measurement's whilst holding the ruler over a work piece on the lathe.
Good to hear! I'm making one just like that except 30" long, for a fiber laser.
Nice !
Thanks!
Great video as usual rich
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Nice little trick! Thank you for sharing Rich!
You bet!
Great video, straight to the point.
Very helpful info an good walkthrough.
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Anchor point is a good name for it. Last year I needed a 6" ruler so I made one. Then I made a bunch more with my logo and phone number on them to give away at craft fairs. Since they are small I can make them using wood that is left over from the stock I use to make business cards
That's what I've been doing for almost a week now! Burning through a 3' tall pile of scrap.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I use rock maple, some call it hard maple. When I designed my ruler I put inches and metric on the same side and started them both on the left. That way I can convert inches to metric at a glance. I don't have any scrap wood, I have inventory.
I use the front left anchor point
I think I use all of them at one point or another. They all have a different purpose.
Thanks for another excellent video, Rich. If you mirror the inch markings to put them toward the bottom of the ruler and align the '0' ends of the two scales, you get a handy 'metric-to-inches' converter. Especially useful for those who didn't grow up with both systems.
I already did a dual version! 👍
I already discovered how invaluable the anchor tool was when making tabs, make sure it's set to the top middle and you can tweek the depth and width of a tab or slot, top right for the right corner, top left for the left corner, managed to make my tabs perfect with kerf... too perfect, had to add some slop in so I could glue :D
Yes! And better yet, if you look at my slots and tabs video, use the center point, double the size, and you can slide them on the line at the exact center, or create an array after the first one is positioned. When you weld them, they come out perfect.
Like this, I have wanted to make rulers for quite awhile but was afraid they would not be to proper scale. How did you populate the tick marks? Rich, I feel you have left out some important info on this video. I am very confused.
I just drew one line with the pencil tool and duplicated it. I covered how to adjust the lines.
Thanks!
You bet! Thanks for the support!
Thanks for the video Rich. That anchor point tip will be very useful. Coincidentally I recently made a engine timing disc which I printed on card. The graduation markets were very similar to your ruler. A long mark, then a shorter half mark and then the small marks. I thought I was being efficient by using the array tool to duplicate each type of mark around the disk. The problem was that the half marks also had the small marks and the major marks also had the other 2 marks,. Whilst this is fine for a drawing, when it comes to engraving, lines under other lines result in double or triple burning and unsatisfactory results. I tried a tool or feature which is supposed to stop that happening. e.g. for placing shapes tight to each other and only cutting the joining line once. However that just didn't work for the measurement scale. Perhaps it only works for things like boxes?
There are tiny tricks to every tool that make them work Doug.
In optimisation settings on Laser tab you can turn on remove duplicate lines to prevent double/tripple burning
Thanks I've checked that the "remove overlapping lines" switch is ON and I've tried setting the distance at the maximum 2mm and the minimum 0.001mm, but simple lines just burn on top of each other. However, when I test 2 squares with one coincident edge, the software only burns that edge once as you would expect. Further experimentation shows that if you draw a line and duplicate it without moving it, the feature works as you would expect and you only burn one line. However if you shorten the duplicated line (keeping vertical and inline with the original line for example) the feature doesn't work. By the way if you want to try this, you can use "Preview" and not actually burn.
Off topic, but I thought I'd ask. What is a good fume extractor to marry up with the Roly 10?
I like the AC Infinity inline fans myself. This is my favorite: amzn.to/3RWdPRQ
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy i notice the cfm is a little over 200. Is this higher than the exhaust fan in the lasermatic?
Would like to eliminate the existing exhaust fan as it does not do a very adequate job.
Also, I would like to add a charcoal filter to help mitigate some of the oder. Would adding the filter imped the cfm?
And if it does would it be better to size up to maybe one of the 6 inch ones with higher rating?
Could you use Variable Text along with an array to create the numbers? If so, it would be a good addendum to this video.
I thought the same thing when Rich was editing one by one then thought maybe he thought it was a little advanced for target audience.
@@chrisgallaher3899 Yes it would be an advanced topic but there should be no reason not to have some advance videos.
Yes you can. I have used it to make locker tags and vehicle ID tags. I did make a video on it some time last year.
Can you tell me how to cancel my Mk2 order? I want to wait until next year to make any purchases. I emailed them several times with no response.
Send the email to support@rolyautomation.com. Right now Leo is traveling in Canada visiting his parents, and then to IL for the Lightburn convention. But don't worry, you only put down a $100 deposit if you pre-ordred. If you paid the full amount, email me and I'll text him.
Um... In the Lightburn Docs the 9 dots or circles are the "Job Origin Location". Page 9/238
That's ANOTHER place where you see 9 dots, but it isn't what Rich is talking about.
????? Huh?@@danielthomas3236
The job origin is on the laser tab. This, what I call Anchor Points, is essentially the same thing, but it *doesn't change* the job origin of the laser. I guess you could call it a work space origin.
Instead of showing bits and pieces of a ruler that is already made, Could you just show the process (without lines already drawn) from start to finish - in less than a minute of course😁
Draw one line with the pencil tool and create arrays from there.
I love your videos, but your measurements are wrong. Count your lines, you are missing 2 mm.
keep up your very good videos.
etc.
Gert
As I said in the video, it was done on purpose for a reason.
Thanks!
You bet! Thanks for the support!
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the support @dennisselander9462