@@ClaremontClassicGarage Definitely worth a lot more than that lol! Good score! I inherited and entire motorcycle shop with turret machine, valve and seat guide machine, you name it! Rows of Harley parts, bikes, any machine you can imagine to build and fabricate any and all parts
usually, these machines are very neglected but with a bit of TLC, they can be returned to service without investing too much, usually a disassembly, an in depth cleaning, a reassembly , relube and adjustment, sometimes a few bearings. the concentricity of the valve stem on the chuck is the most touchy part of the refusbishing work and often the most neglected. the most tricky part on these B & D machines is the chuck collet, there a replacement part ( goodson BVR-38 ) it is OK for automotive valves but I find that is short and the valve support is not that good ( It is specified for the B & D grinder but it fits my Wolf grinder )
@@dawsonjorgensen3521 the interior diameter of the work head spindle is exactly 1.000 inch on the B & D and the Wolf Vr5 valve refacers, The only difference is the lenght, for the Wolf Vr5, I had to add an additionnel 1/4" sleeve to the sleeve that is supplied with the BVR-38 replacement collet, it works perfectly with a concentricity less than 0.002" TIR on my old Wolf grinder that is very acceptable The only drawback is that the diameter of the valve stem is limited to 3/8", it is OK for most automobile engine applications.
@@jacquespoirier9071 thank you very much for the information, I could not have found anywhere else, there is a wolf valve grinder close to me for sale at a reasonable price, I just might pick it up. give it a good cleaning and see if I can get good concentricity, if not Im sure i can order a black&decker collet with some slight modifications as you did and have a good running machine.
@@dawsonjorgensen3521 Ypu can be strict on the price negociation as these machine are orphant in america and the lasts ones have been built in india, I tried many times to communicate with Ralliwolf ( the mother company ) without success . Be ready for 2 things, to my experience, the exterior journal of the workhead spindle needs to be regrinded to take rid of the wear and new bushings fitted,( the bushings needs to be honed as a piston wrist pin for minimal running clearance ) Next, the original belts are rubber and they are perished and stretched, the workhead and grinding spindle are flat style, the coolant pump is round style, you can find these belts at Mc masters, for my machine, I done business with a local industrial belt supplier that made for me custom belts. on my machine, the only bearing I had to replace is the bearing in the grinding head belt tensionner, happily, this bearing was generic both motors were in very good condition, only cleaning and relubing the bearings. good luck.
You must have enough coolant in the tank to submerge the original pump. These pumps will not suck fluid, but will pump if the coolant level is high enough to submerge the pump. The original coolant tank helps a lot, hope everyone gets some actual use out of their grinder.
Also check all of the lines, the pump, and the diverter valve for trash. The grinding dust from 1949 may still be in there, most likely swelled up with rust from the steel valves that have been ground over the decades.
Yes, I realize where the pump is, I have the exact same valve grinder, although it is a later green/gold color. I had the same problem as you, until I filled up the reservoir. Works like a champ now.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage all the newer cars, smaller 4 cylinders and some 6, pretty much anything with 4 valves tbh unless it's diesel, I got one too coolant pump doesn't work so I just have a helper with a bottle of atf, dont have the stem attachment though, doing some b25 subaru heads flat tappet no shim, small ass valves though
@@ClaremontClassicGarage sweet deal, some people are just asking to much money for them, while on other online auctions besides ebayy they get let go for about $300.00.
You have to take the motor apart. I'm not exactly certain how the pump actually works. There are a few passages drilled into the end of the armature shaft. And as the shaft spins in the end housing it creates a suction to move the fluid along. I did eventually get my pump working, there were 2 problems. 1, me or someone before me had installed the brushes wrong and the motor was running backwards(oops). 2, the seal was bad and it was sucking air. You can't get the original seal anymore but CR 6225 fits properly and you can install 2 of them so thats what I did. Now my pump works like a champ.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage thank you. I got the motor a part but on mine the pump section is attached to the armature shaft and it camt figure out how it is held onto the shaft.
This is a good video. I have a sioux seat grinding box like yours that I bought with all kinds of guide pilots & stones in it. There are some pilots that I don't know what they are for? I have managed to figure out enuf to do a 3 angle valve job on my old ford 390 heads & I will say they turned out well. Engine is running great! But some of the equipment I have, im in the dark on?
Cool that’s something I have had the opportunity to buy but scared to invest $400 in something I may only use 3 or 4 times but a nice addition to any garage indeed!😀🏗🪝🇨🇦
it is a major asset as you control what you do. I found and built my valve equipment because i was disgusted of the botched work done by my local engine rebuilders so a few bucks invested is nothing in comparizon of failed valve job for a consumer where you have to assume the rework and the fight against the rebuilder.
Can you explain a little more about how to get the motors apart? It looks like you have a spanner on your bench, will I need one? Also, where did you get cords that fit well? All of mine are cracked bad. How do you get into the power switch panel? It seems like there is a wire rivited to the case?
Sorry, this was quite a while ago. I don't remember too many exact details. I just started taking stuff apart. As far as cords, I will buy extension cords on amazon and use them or use cords I've saved from old appliances etc. You can also get replacement cords at any hardware store.
Depends where you look. I bought a second, more complete one with a complete Sioux seat kit for 50 bucks. I see them on ebay for 1000. And everything in between. One popped up on marketplace this week. B-D valve machine with a decent looking B=D seat cutting kit. Was listed for 275 and marked sold the next day.
@@ClaremontClassicGarageI’m still using mine in small engine shop I open in summer, it’s still fun to operate after all these years Dad was letting me run it at 10 and they took pictures lolol 😊
@@ClaremontClassicGarage I also have the parts to change it to very tiny valves to large valves, three different ones that I can change out as needed 😊
Its quite a procedure. The whole thing has to come apart. The pulley is split. I have since acquired another complete machine. I will provide a more detailed account of it when I fix it up.
Gives me a head start on what to do with mine. Thanks!
My pleasure. I have since gotten the lube pump working, it needed a new seal.
I just inherited one of those and had no idea what it was lol. Thanks for the video.
I recently got a whole second machine with all the attachments and the seat grinding kit at an estate sale for 5o bucks.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage
Definitely worth a lot more than that lol! Good score! I inherited and entire motorcycle shop with turret machine, valve and seat guide machine, you name it! Rows of Harley parts, bikes, any machine you can imagine to build and fabricate any and all parts
usually, these machines are very neglected but with a bit of TLC, they can be returned to service without investing too much, usually a disassembly, an in depth cleaning, a reassembly , relube and adjustment, sometimes a few bearings.
the concentricity of the valve stem on the chuck is the most touchy part of the refusbishing work and often the most neglected.
the most tricky part on these B & D machines is the chuck collet, there a replacement part ( goodson BVR-38 ) it is OK for automotive valves but I find that is short and the valve support is not that good ( It is specified for the B & D grinder but it fits my Wolf grinder )
@Jacques Poirier so the black and decker collet replacement from Goodsons fits the wolf valve grinders?
@@dawsonjorgensen3521 the interior diameter of the work head spindle is exactly 1.000 inch on the B & D and the Wolf Vr5 valve refacers,
The only difference is the lenght, for the Wolf Vr5, I had to add an additionnel 1/4" sleeve to the sleeve that is supplied with the BVR-38 replacement collet,
it works perfectly with a concentricity less than 0.002" TIR on my old Wolf grinder that is very acceptable
The only drawback is that the diameter of the valve stem is limited to 3/8", it is OK for most automobile engine applications.
@@jacquespoirier9071 thank you very much for the information, I could not have found anywhere else, there is a wolf valve grinder close to me for sale at a reasonable price, I just might pick it up. give it a good cleaning and see if I can get good concentricity, if not Im sure i can order a black&decker collet with some slight modifications as you did and have a good running machine.
@@dawsonjorgensen3521 Ypu can be strict on the price negociation as these machine are orphant in america and the lasts ones have been built in india, I tried many times to communicate with Ralliwolf ( the mother company ) without success .
Be ready for 2 things, to my experience, the exterior journal of the workhead spindle needs to be regrinded to take rid of the wear and new bushings fitted,( the bushings needs to be honed as a piston wrist pin for minimal running clearance )
Next, the original belts are rubber and they are perished and stretched, the workhead and grinding spindle are flat style, the coolant pump is round style, you can find these belts at Mc masters, for my machine, I done business with a local industrial belt supplier that made for me custom belts.
on my machine, the only bearing I had to replace is the bearing in the grinding head belt tensionner, happily, this bearing was generic
both motors were in very good condition, only cleaning and relubing the bearings.
good luck.
You must have enough coolant in the tank to submerge the original pump. These pumps will not suck fluid, but will pump if the coolant level is high enough to submerge the pump. The original coolant tank helps a lot, hope everyone gets some actual use out of their grinder.
Also check all of the lines, the pump, and the diverter valve for trash. The grinding dust from 1949 may still be in there, most likely swelled up with rust from the steel valves that have been ground over the decades.
@@donolbers The pump is in the end of the motor, not in the res. I finally got it going. Had to replace the seal on the shaft.
Yes, I realize where the pump is, I have the exact same valve grinder, although it is a later green/gold color. I had the same problem as you, until I filled up the reservoir. Works like a champ now.
They were great for the engines of that era . What I mean is valve stems that are 3/8 or 11/32 .
I have collets right down to 1/4
@@ClaremontClassicGarage Right. There great machines . you cant out live them . But about 85% of all valves stems are way smaller than 1/4 .
@@ansondesimone5928 nothing I mess with is that small.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage all the newer cars, smaller 4 cylinders and some 6, pretty much anything with 4 valves tbh unless it's diesel, I got one too coolant pump doesn't work so I just have a helper with a bottle of atf, dont have the stem attachment though, doing some b25 subaru heads flat tappet no shim, small ass valves though
Great vid bro, I’m dying to get one of these.
Keep your eyes peeled. I bought a second one in better shape than this one with a complete Sioux valve seat kit for $50. You'll find one!
@@ClaremontClassicGarage sweet deal, some people are just asking to much money for them, while on other online auctions besides ebayy they get let go for about $300.00.
I think you should be able to Sharper bits..
Yes, I was thinking of making an attachment to do that.
@@ClaremontClassicGaragethere is a factory tool for it that came with my other souix machine to sharpen bits
Read the manual
@@philliphall5198 what manual? It didn't come with one. I have since sourced one and all questions have been answered.
Nice work and very informative. Thank you...
My pleasure! I just got another one, so hopefully more B&D videos soon.
I put a fewchainsaw chains backwards after 30 years of tree removal
Happens to the best of us LOL
The fuel pump needs be submerged to stay cool or it burns up ... hence why it's better to keep vehicle at 1/4 tank or higher
Its an inline diesel pump I used. different animal than an in tank one.
How is the pump section attached to the armature shaft and how did you get it off? This video has been a big help as I work on my machine.
You have to take the motor apart. I'm not exactly certain how the pump actually works. There are a few passages drilled into the end of the armature shaft. And as the shaft spins in the end housing it creates a suction to move the fluid along. I did eventually get my pump working, there were 2 problems. 1, me or someone before me had installed the brushes wrong and the motor was running backwards(oops). 2, the seal was bad and it was sucking air. You can't get the original seal anymore but CR 6225 fits properly and you can install 2 of them so thats what I did. Now my pump works like a champ.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage thank you. I got the motor a part but on mine the pump section is attached to the armature shaft and it camt figure out how it is held onto the shaft.
Ok. I figured it out. It is just a tight fit (after all these years) on the shaft. Thanks for your video.
This is a good video. I have a sioux seat grinding box like yours that I bought with all kinds of guide pilots & stones in it. There are some pilots that I don't know what they are for? I have managed to figure out enuf to do a 3 angle valve job on my old ford 390 heads & I will say they turned out well. Engine is running great! But some of the equipment I have, im in the dark on?
I have to admit I'm in the dark on a lot of it too.
Thanks for the video and aft tip ☺️
Cool that’s something I have had the opportunity to buy but scared to invest $400 in something I may only use 3 or 4 times but a nice addition to any garage indeed!😀🏗🪝🇨🇦
There's lots of them around cheap. Keep an eye on Marketplace and the usual classified sites.
it is a major asset as you control what you do. I found and built my valve equipment because i was disgusted of the botched work done by my local engine rebuilders so a few bucks invested is nothing in comparizon of failed valve job for a consumer where you have to assume the rework and the fight against the rebuilder.
Can you explain a little more about how to get the motors apart? It looks like you have a spanner on your bench, will I need one?
Also, where did you get cords that fit well? All of mine are cracked bad. How do you get into the power switch panel? It seems like there is a wire rivited to the case?
Sorry, this was quite a while ago. I don't remember too many exact details. I just started taking stuff apart. As far as cords, I will buy extension cords on amazon and use them or use cords I've saved from old appliances etc. You can also get replacement cords at any hardware store.
I have one in top shape and it’s a B/D
With all the seat grinding stones and guides plus nettling tools
What are they worth now ??
Depends where you look. I bought a second, more complete one with a complete Sioux seat kit for 50 bucks. I see them on ebay for 1000. And everything in between. One popped up on marketplace this week. B-D valve machine with a decent looking B=D seat cutting kit. Was listed for 275 and marked sold the next day.
@@ClaremontClassicGarageI’m still using mine in small engine shop I open in summer, it’s still fun to operate after all these years
Dad was letting me run it at 10 and they took pictures lolol 😊
@@philliphall5198 I have 2 of these guys now along with a smaller B&D one and a Sioux 645 which is my favorite.
Love the looks of the machine. Don't restore it, patina is great, it is history
nice video, quick question how you take apart the chuck? i have one alike but engine for valve is stock
mine was stuck too. I just grabbed it with a channel lock and gave a couple of snaps and it came free
Keep it free and lube it regularly 😊
@@ClaremontClassicGarage I also have the parts to change it to very tiny valves to large valves, three different ones that I can change out as needed 😊
@@philliphall5198 I bought another machine that came with the 3 collets and I also bought an aftermarket small valve collet for it.
How do you remove and replace the grinding wheels on the main spindle ?
I have new wheels for mine, I'll be doing a video on changing them when I get the machine dug out of the corner of the shop.
How did you replace the belt
Its quite a procedure. The whole thing has to come apart. The pulley is split. I have since acquired another complete machine. I will provide a more detailed account of it when I fix it up.
Hi ,where can i buy the 3 belts for the valve grinder
beamequipment.store/
@@ClaremontClassicGarage Chuck Collet - Range 1/4" to 3/8"
Looking for this ,but less then 1/4"
@@yayahag1420 goodson.com/products/bvr-38-black-decker-replacement-collet
@@ClaremontClassicGarage i have this one ,i need the one that small then 1/4" ,the europen cars have small valve less then 1/4" size
@@yayahag1420 I know I have seen them. Its a custom kit. If I come across it again Ill post it here
Se puede traducir al español
the only information here is you fixed up your machine.
This video was not meant as a "how to". I show folks what I'm doing on a particular day. Thanks for watching.
What have you taught me, Nothing,
Wasn't intended as a how to video.
thanks
Thanks for watching!