I have officially found my holy grail of RUclips channels. I’ve been watching you’re videos for hours now. As I kept watching, it became stranger and stranger how much we had in common. I built a 49 F1, with 5.0 out of a 94 Mustang GT with an AODE trans. After buying the mustang I realized it was OBD I and all aftermarket programmers at the time were for OBD II. Eventually they came out with the Megasquirt PIMPXS that did the engine and trans so I swapped out the factory ecu with BAMA chip. In my shop I have a lathe, mill, 2 post lift, phase converter, modified HB English wheel, and tools for just about anything. The difference between you and I is, you actually know how to use all of it. I play around and eventually figure it out. Well now I’m building a second F1. This one is a 50. I bought 3 trucks initially thinking I’d need them to build 1, not realizing how good the aftermarket parts availability was. Now on to the 2nd one. You’d think I would’ve learned to research after the 94 mustang fiasco (I know you know what I mean) but no. This time I bought a coyote motor with a 6R80 trans. I think it’s worse now. Anyway, thank you sir for doing what you do. Please continue to make videos. Even your videos that don’t deal with the truck are somehow exactly relevant to me If you weren’t 1400 miles away I’d be cleaning your shop just to watch and learn.
Well, thank you my friend! Like a parallel universe! I’ve got the Coyote motor in my F150. That would be sweet in the f-1, but it’s pretty wide compared to the 5.0. Thanks for watching and commenting.👍Tony B
When porting a bowl are you supposed to give the bowl some "ramp/curve" to the valve seat or if you do a 3 angle / multi angle is it efficient for your bowl to run straight down? Fantastic little tool. Added to my must buy list. You can sneak up to the right cuts with this very easily.
Great Video on the subject - I learned several new things from it! I'm amazed that those G01 heads came out to 57cc - I have some that I'm currently having bored out for 90.5 cylinders. They advertise them at 51cc, I think (which I was hoping for) - I guess I better CC them to be sure. Thanks and sub'd!
Thanks Tony. I am just rebuilding my vortec and the valves and seats can use a grind/cut. There are only a couple of engine machine shops left around here and they either charge way too much, constantly lying/upselling or are are just jerks. I would much rather do it in my home shop.
Thanks for the vid I've read that lapping isnt recommended for 'interference fit' i.e. 46 degree seat. They said lapping rounds the 3 angles and doesnt seal Apparently the neway manual mentions this somewhere. Does the neway cutter give 46 degree seat or is it a true 45 deg?
very nice vid. very interesting .My question for you= How do you know which angle to use ? for cutting a new seat ? Do you have a template or a gauge to tell you ? Thank you very much
For this particular VW motor, I found the information I needed from “The Samba”, a VW forum. You could measure the valve face yourself by using a protractor head combination square. The people at Newway were very helpful too and they can advise on some of the more common engines. Good luck!👍
I’m a new sub here you are very talented! I’ve been kind of skimming your videos gonna take me a long time to catch up on them 👍you’ve been at it for quite a while! Take care ..Kev
Tony I was unaware of your recent health scare, I was watching brother Bill’s SNSG, when he talked about your improved health, thank God you are doing good and continue to heal you will be in my prayers tonight my good friend 🙏
Thanks Mike! Yes, I had another miracle 🙏but God is not done with me yet. Now I have Covid. I taking some new drug and I should be back to normal before long. Thank you, my friend!
@@ChipsAndSparksGarage yeah Tony I got it really bad up fishing, for about 10 days it was rough, we’ll take care, and let me know when your feeling better
neway is great stuff. i have more bug parts than samba including a hydraulic isky camed 1970s 1500 with a chev 2bbl carb. it was airconditioned but idled at 1000 with the compressor running. it is in a 58 bug made into a pickup. it took me to the great divide in co every weekend in 1970.
Hello Mr Tony. I came accross your channel, very informative, like the work you are doing. I live 1 hr away from you (Rougemont,NC) by Roxboro. Can you do service to the public. if you do how can I get you my block. Please. if not I have to shipped them to TN.Thank you in advance.
WOW, Neway have revised their prices. Early 2000's, a single cutter was around $250. It takes more pressure when seat gets wide so it makes life easier if you use the 60 degree to narrow the 45 a little. I'm pretty sure that isn't in the instructions? It isn't just valve seat width though, use valve to find actual position and measure 45 seat width to around 2.5-3.0 mm exhaust and 2mm intake. Those intake valves need a back cut and radius the margin. Nice lathe work, collet chuck makes life a lot easier
Thanks! Yes, I had only seen their prices on full kits, which can get pretty expensive. They were very helpful when I called them, and were happy to only sell me just what I needed. 👍
If you look into the Newen 3d set cutting system I think you will like the finished product a lot more. Much more accuracy and better cut finish. Best part is Many different ball driver heads are available for different mill`s I still have all my neway cutters but honestly never use them any more.
Hi Hugh, I’ve been taking care of some family health problems lately, so the build has been on hold. I hope to get back to it soon though, and some new videos. Thanks for following👍
Great video! I hope to complete my Beetle engine soon and am thinking about going 1776 ccm with it, as well - so very good info on how it is done! Also: Coming here from 'This Old Tony'....Is being a good machinist somehow connected to the name 'Tony'?
Thanks for the nice compliment! I thought having the stock stroke in a 1776 would be easier on the magnesium case. If you go with a much larger stroke, you’ll increase side loads of the piston/rod. I also plan to go with a single carb (for now), so anything larger would not really be needed. I enjoy watching, “This Old Tony”, too. I wish being a Tony gave me an “advantage through association”😁 Thanks again!👍Tony B
Yes, I’m sure they do. These VW heads I was working on were 35.5/32, and they have they sell a wide variety of cutters. Give them a call, and they’ll tell you what you need. 👍
Great content! Thanks for the time spent on the video I know they take a lot of time. Just the one little off the cuff comment about being able to redress valve faces with a lathe tool bit vs a lathe spindle grinder for the DIY engine builder was worth it for me.
Thanks Allan! I had always wondered about doing that with the lathe, but I had never seen it done before. Looking at the Neway website, I saw that they sell a dedicated piece of equipment that does the exact same thing as a lathe, and it uses a carbide cutter. Seeing as I already have a lathe, I figured, “Why not”. When you lap the valve to the seat afterwards, you’ll see that you get a complete seal. Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching!👍 Tony
The heads seal on top of the cylinders and the flat deck area of the combustion chamber. when boring for even larger cylinders such as 94mm, you’ll actually break through into the bolt holes. No problem. Thanks👍
Last month I picked up a 1974 dune buggy that has been sitting for a minimum of 10 years (engine looks have sat even longer) I've been tearing into the thing and I'm finding out how much of a pain in the ass they can be. My engine was locked solid, took it apart and its really rusty inside, Removed the worst side heads valves because it needed to be cleaned out and noticed that the one exhaust valve seats has pretty bad pitting, I'm wondering if this type of tool will work for me or if I should just look for new heads
It depends on how deeply the seats are pitted, and how deeply you’ll have to sink the valves. Don’t forget that the pilot for the seat cutter needs a good valve guide to work accurately. If the guides are worn, they’ll have to be replaced before you can cut the seats. It comes down to economics too. If the valve train is all corroded and ruined, it will probably make sense to go with new, or at least better heads. Good luck!👍
@@ChipsAndSparksGarage it's only the one cylinder that had water in it and it's only the exhaust valve seat with pitting, I poured water on the valves last night to test and see if they leak, would it be smart to just buy new valves and use them on my current heads or would that cause a hot spot and grenade the engine
@@ob1kenobi748 If you can get the new valve to seal properly, it should be safe to run at least. Ideally, you will cut the valve seat properly for a good seal. If optimum performance is not a goal, you might get by by just lapping the valve and seat together. Check the seal by filling the combustion chamber with water(just like when you check chamber volume) any leakage is a no-go, as the exhaust blowing through a leaky valve will quickly erode the valve and seal. Take care👍
@@ChipsAndSparksGarage Thank you brother. Yes I do it all myself. Test results that have shown with full cerakote treatment that your able to reduce header temps by up to 90°c on N/A application for every 10° drop in temp you add 1Hp. Not only that but coated pistons etc can triple their life and preserve many other mechanical moving components.
I just got a set of these Neway cutters for the Chevy 235/261, I also got the spring loaded hand crank and expanding pilot. They work very well. I cut the three angle valve seats into a cylinder head for my dad’s 1959 truck and it started right up after sitting for probably 35 or 40 years. Thanks for showing us how to do this.
i had a 261 bored 60 with a milled head and sunk valves with a melling cam in 1962 with a packard threespeed with overdrive and a 390 merc rearend in a 39 chev sedan. i was 17. good times when i finally got a 4spd it would get rubber in all four gears. the packard was good with the overdrive but i could not shift it as fast as i put a ford top shift on it from a four threespeed tranny with a adapter and welded forks for the gears. i had a fenton split exhaust manifold and a small olds fourbarrel before trying a paxton supercharger off a tbird, i could never get the belt drive perfected because it took a wide belt for the drive. i copied a corvette 6 dual point dist from the pictures in a 62 motor manual. man i wish i was 18 again and knew what i know now, course back then i was always broke.
Good evening sir Sir kindly tell me how we measure true cutting angle of valve seat of cylinder head Which tool we use to measure this degree angles,30 ,45and 60 degree
Hello. I measure the angle of a good valve with an adjustable protractor, and then use the appropriate cutter. You can also reference specifications from the manufacturer. Sometimes the valve seat will be specified at a slightly different angle than the valve.👍
You’re absolutely right, Ken. I used the lathe to back the valves, which is a performance enhancement and not part of a typical valve job. I should have pointed that out in my video. Thanks for the comment!👍
Hi Tony thought I saw a comment from you just as was deleting the video due to miss spelling, didn’t get a chance to read it , but I’m sure it was awesome as usual, thank you my dear friend 😀😀
@@ChipsAndSparksGarage thank you. I’m back into it this month to get the paint done so engine out again. Got it down to less than an hour to pull the little lump out haha
So good to see you on the shop again Tony!! Such good info in this video. Wish I had a mill and lathe, so much nicer being able to do your own machine work so you can dial it into what you want it to be. Happy New Year buddy!
The thickness of 30 and 60 degree cuts is also rather important. I’d say yours are not as thick as they need to be
Gr8 video Tony as always, hope you are well, cheers from Aus
I have officially found my holy grail of RUclips channels. I’ve been watching you’re videos for hours now. As I kept watching, it became stranger and stranger how much we had in common. I built a 49 F1, with 5.0 out of a 94 Mustang GT with an AODE trans. After buying the mustang I realized it was OBD I and all aftermarket programmers at the time were for OBD II. Eventually they came out with the Megasquirt PIMPXS that did the engine and trans so I swapped out the factory ecu with BAMA chip. In my shop I have a lathe, mill, 2 post lift, phase converter, modified HB English wheel, and tools for just about anything. The difference between you and I is, you actually know how to use all of it. I play around and eventually figure it out. Well now I’m building a second F1. This one is a 50. I bought 3 trucks initially thinking I’d need them to build 1, not realizing how good the aftermarket parts availability was. Now on to the 2nd one. You’d think I would’ve learned to research after the 94 mustang fiasco (I know you know what I mean) but no. This time I bought a coyote motor with a 6R80 trans. I think it’s worse now. Anyway, thank you sir for doing what you do. Please continue to make videos. Even your videos that don’t deal with the truck are somehow exactly relevant to me If you weren’t 1400 miles away I’d be cleaning your shop just to watch and learn.
Well, thank you my friend! Like a parallel universe!
I’ve got the Coyote motor in my F150. That would be sweet in the f-1, but it’s pretty wide compared to the 5.0. Thanks for watching and commenting.👍Tony B
When porting a bowl are you supposed to give the bowl some "ramp/curve" to the valve seat or if you do a 3 angle / multi angle is it efficient for your bowl to run straight down? Fantastic little tool. Added to my must buy list. You can sneak up to the right cuts with this very easily.
Best video I’ve found for using the neway cutters . Wish I would have found this earlier.
Thanks! I really appreciate that.👍
@@ChipsAndSparksGarageThis is gonna change my life! Thanks.🏁✊🏾🇯🇲
@@JuniorHenderson-i6q Thanks! Glad I could help!👍
Excellent video with clear instructions thanks for showing us how it’s done just shows this can be done at home
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it👍
I hope you're okay. You haven't posted a video in a long time.
where can i buy the bicycle seat valve set boss
Like 560. You have awesome knowledge and skills! Great work! Thank for you sharing with us!
Thank you, Friend!👍
Great video learning alot greetings from Africa Uganda
Great Video on the subject - I learned several new things from it! I'm amazed that those G01 heads came out to 57cc - I have some that I'm currently having bored out for 90.5 cylinders. They advertise them at 51cc, I think (which I was hoping for) - I guess I better CC them to be sure. Thanks and sub'd!
Thanks! Yes, the only way to know the CC’s for sure, is to measure them👍
Thanks Tony. I am just rebuilding my vortec and the valves and seats can use a grind/cut. There are only a couple of engine machine shops left around here and they either charge way too much, constantly lying/upselling or are are just jerks. I would much rather do it in my home shop.
Thanks friend! Yes, this is definitely something you can do yourself. Good luck!👍
Thanks for the vid
I've read that lapping isnt recommended for 'interference fit' i.e. 46 degree seat. They said lapping rounds the 3 angles and doesnt seal
Apparently the neway manual mentions this somewhere. Does the neway cutter give 46 degree seat or is it a true 45 deg?
Thanks! Neway has available, both 45 and 46 degree cutters👍
very nice vid. very interesting .My question for you= How do you know which angle to use ? for cutting a new seat ? Do you have a template or a gauge to tell you ? Thank you very much
For this particular VW motor, I found the information I needed from “The Samba”, a VW forum. You could measure the valve face yourself by using a protractor head combination square.
The people at Newway were very helpful too and they can advise on some of the more common engines. Good luck!👍
I’m a new sub here you are very talented! I’ve been kind of skimming your videos gonna take me a long time to catch up on them 👍you’ve been at it for quite a while! Take care ..Kev
Thanks Kev! I appreciate your feedback, and your subscription!
Tony i got a lot of neway stuff off of ebay.
thank you very much
Tony I was unaware of your recent health scare, I was watching brother Bill’s SNSG, when he talked about your improved health, thank God you are doing good and continue to heal you will be in my prayers tonight my good friend 🙏
Thanks Mike! Yes, I had another miracle 🙏but God is not done with me yet. Now I have Covid.
I taking some new drug and I should be back to normal before long.
Thank you, my friend!
@@ChipsAndSparksGarage yeah Tony I got it really bad up fishing, for about 10 days it was rough, we’ll take care, and let me know when your feeling better
Really helpful information there. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! I hope it helps.👍
I want to buy this
1776 is a good number. 😎
Thanks for watching👍
😊😊
@ChipsAndSparksGarage
@ChipsAndSparksGarage
$250 ? I think it's 650 now... maybe, ill call
neway is great stuff. i have more bug parts than samba including a hydraulic isky camed 1970s 1500 with a chev 2bbl carb. it was airconditioned but idled at 1000 with the compressor running. it is in a 58 bug made into a pickup. it took me to the great divide in co every weekend in 1970.
Cool story Charles! Thanks for watching👍
Nice video thank you for the sharing
Thank you!👍
Hello Mr Tony. I came accross your channel, very informative, like the work you are doing. I live 1 hr away from you (Rougemont,NC) by Roxboro. Can you do service to the public. if you do how can I get you my block. Please. if not I have to shipped them to TN.Thank you in advance.
Hi, and thank you for the comments.👍 I’m sorry but I’m strictly a hobby shop, and don’t offer services to the public. Take care!
WOW, Neway have revised their prices.
Early 2000's, a single cutter was around $250.
It takes more pressure when seat gets wide so it makes life easier if you use the 60 degree to narrow the 45 a little.
I'm pretty sure that isn't in the instructions?
It isn't just valve seat width though, use valve to find actual position and measure 45 seat width to around 2.5-3.0 mm exhaust and 2mm intake.
Those intake valves need a back cut and radius the margin.
Nice lathe work, collet chuck makes life a lot easier
Thanks! Yes, I had only seen their prices on full kits, which can get pretty expensive. They were very helpful when I called them, and were happy to only sell me just what I needed. 👍
If you look into the Newen 3d set cutting system I think you will like the finished product a lot more. Much more accuracy and better cut finish. Best part is Many different ball driver heads are available for different mill`s I still have all my neway cutters but honestly never use them any more.
Thanks! I’ll check them out.👍
Fantastic Content. Thank You For Sharing. have a great day!👍
Thank you!👍
How's the VW engine build going. I'm new to your channel. The last video was 3 months ago. I know parts are really hard to get right now.
Hi Hugh, I’ve been taking care of some family health problems lately, so the build has been on hold. I hope to get back to it soon though, and some new videos. Thanks for following👍
Great video! I hope to complete my Beetle engine soon and am thinking about going 1776 ccm with it, as well - so very good info on how it is done! Also: Coming here from 'This Old Tony'....Is being a good machinist somehow connected to the name 'Tony'?
Thanks for the nice compliment! I thought having the stock stroke in a 1776 would be easier on the magnesium case. If you go with a much larger stroke, you’ll increase side loads of the piston/rod.
I also plan to go with a single carb (for now), so anything larger would not really be needed.
I enjoy watching, “This Old Tony”, too. I wish being a Tony gave me an “advantage through association”😁 Thanks again!👍Tony B
We always did an interferance angle. 1 degree difference between valve and main seat angle. Steeper angle on seat.
That makes good sense for a better seal👍
Do u think they have cutter for a 212 cc engine ? 32/28 valves cylinder head .
Yes, I’m sure they do. These VW heads I was working on were 35.5/32, and they have they sell a wide variety of cutters. Give them a call, and they’ll tell you what you need. 👍
Great content! Thanks for the time spent on the video I know they take a lot of time.
Just the one little off the cuff comment about being able to redress valve faces with a lathe tool bit vs a lathe spindle grinder for the DIY engine builder was worth it for me.
Thanks Allan! I had always wondered about doing that with the lathe, but I had never seen it done before. Looking at the Neway website, I saw that they sell a dedicated piece of equipment that does the exact same thing as a lathe, and it uses a carbide cutter. Seeing as I already have a lathe, I figured, “Why not”. When you lap the valve to the seat afterwards, you’ll see that you get a complete seal. Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching!👍 Tony
Man I love watching machine work, hand porting, and valve jobs! This vid had all three! Well done and great vid.
Thanks, Mike. I’m glad you enjoyed! 👍Tony B
The bolt holes for the head bolts look paper thin to the combustion chamber. Hope it lasts!
The heads seal on top of the cylinders and the flat deck area of the combustion chamber.
when boring for even larger cylinders such as 94mm, you’ll actually break through into the bolt holes. No problem. Thanks👍
Its probably to late but if you blended the head into seat it would flow
Thanks for watching!👍
good work sir, very good educational video!! many thanks!
Thank you!👍
Great video learning a lot I have a brand new set of old 044 cb heads needs porting and polishing
Thanks, Avo! I appreciate it.👍
Very cool, I’ve been wanting to do a Jeep head. I have an old valve grinder,to many projects,
Thanks! I know what you mean, about too many projects.👍
As always very good video. I’ve done a few valve job, but using the marker to “show” the cuts was a great tip. Especially as my eyes get older…lol
Great video. Going to watch all your VW videos.👍
Thanks friend! I appreciate it👍Tony B
liked alot .. it was good video. 5 stars and good weekend. J in Dinmarc
I appreciate the comment! Thanks friend!👍
Thanks for the info. Video was well shot and well lit. Great job
Thank you!👍
Last month I picked up a 1974 dune buggy that has been sitting for a minimum of 10 years (engine looks have sat even longer) I've been tearing into the thing and I'm finding out how much of a pain in the ass they can be. My engine was locked solid, took it apart and its really rusty inside, Removed the worst side heads valves because it needed to be cleaned out and noticed that the one exhaust valve seats has pretty bad pitting, I'm wondering if this type of tool will work for me or if I should just look for new heads
It depends on how deeply the seats are pitted, and how deeply you’ll have to sink the valves.
Don’t forget that the pilot for the seat cutter needs a good valve guide to work accurately. If the guides are worn, they’ll have to be replaced before you can cut the seats.
It comes down to economics too. If the valve train is all corroded and ruined, it will probably make sense to go with new, or at least better heads.
Good luck!👍
@@ChipsAndSparksGarage it's only the one cylinder that had water in it and it's only the exhaust valve seat with pitting, I poured water on the valves last night to test and see if they leak, would it be smart to just buy new valves and use them on my current heads or would that cause a hot spot and grenade the engine
@@ob1kenobi748 If you can get the new valve to seal properly, it should be safe to run at least. Ideally, you will cut the valve seat properly for a good seal. If optimum performance is not a goal, you might get by by just lapping the valve and seat together.
Check the seal by filling the combustion chamber with water(just like when you check chamber volume) any leakage is a no-go, as the exhaust blowing through a leaky valve will quickly erode the valve and seal.
Take care👍
Nice video I worked a vw dealer in 74 in engine room building them
Thanks Jim! That would have been a cool job!👍
Beautiful job and nicely explained. I Cerakote all these items you speak about including exhaust and boy do they run good 🎉
Thanks friend! Do you do that yourself? Good idea👍
@@ChipsAndSparksGarage Thank you brother. Yes I do it all myself. Test results that have shown with full cerakote treatment that your able to reduce header temps by up to 90°c on N/A application for every 10° drop in temp you add 1Hp. Not only that but coated pistons etc can triple their life and preserve many other mechanical moving components.
I just got a set of these Neway cutters for the Chevy 235/261, I also got the spring loaded hand crank and expanding pilot. They work very well. I cut the three angle valve seats into a cylinder head for my dad’s 1959 truck and it started right up after sitting for probably 35 or 40 years. Thanks for showing us how to do this.
Thanks Dale! I’m glad the video helped. Your Dad’s old truck sounds like a nice project. Good luck!👍
i had a 261 bored 60 with a milled head and sunk valves with a melling cam in 1962 with a packard threespeed with overdrive and a 390 merc rearend in a 39 chev sedan. i was 17. good times when i finally got a 4spd it would get rubber in all four gears. the packard was good with the overdrive but i could not shift it as fast as i put a ford top shift on it from a four threespeed tranny with a adapter and welded forks for the gears. i had a fenton split exhaust manifold and a small olds fourbarrel before trying a paxton supercharger off a tbird, i could never get the belt drive perfected because it took a wide belt for the drive. i copied a corvette 6 dual point dist from the pictures in a 62 motor manual. man i wish i was 18 again and knew what i know now, course back then i was always broke.
Good evening sir
Sir kindly tell me how we measure true cutting angle of valve seat of cylinder head
Which tool we use to measure this degree angles,30 ,45and 60 degree
Hello. I measure the angle of a good valve with an adjustable protractor, and then use the appropriate cutter. You can also reference specifications from the manufacturer. Sometimes the valve seat will be specified at a slightly different angle than the valve.👍
@@ChipsAndSparksGarage thank you sir for your humble and kindness
Thanks for sharing. Well explained.
Thanks! I appreciate that.👍
I believe a lathe counts as machinery
You’re absolutely right, Ken. I used the lathe to back the valves, which is a performance enhancement and not part of a typical valve job. I should have pointed that out in my video.
Thanks for the comment!👍
Great work. Very informative!
Thanks Marty!👍
Happy Easter to you and family my good friend 😀
Happy Easter, Mike! I hope all is well👍
Hi Tony thought I saw a comment from you just as was deleting the video due to miss spelling, didn’t get a chance to read it , but I’m sure it was awesome as usual, thank you my dear friend 😀😀
Nice work thank you for the effort! About to do a 69 Mini
Thank you, Friend! I love those old Mini’s! I just subscribed to you channel, so I can follow along. Good luck!👍Tony B
@@ChipsAndSparksGarage thank you. I’m back into it this month to get the paint done so engine out again. Got it down to less than an hour to pull the little lump out haha
Good working !
Thank you!👍
So good to see you on the shop again Tony!!
Such good info in this video. Wish I had a mill and lathe, so much nicer being able to do your own machine work so you can dial it into what you want it to be.
Happy New Year buddy!
Thanks, Gary! Yes, I’m pretty spoiled, having my machines. Have a great 2023!👍
Fantastic
Thank you so much 👍
It seems to me that the tool moves around when you put pressure on it. You can see a slight wobble at 8:37 - 8.49
Otherwise really awesome tool.
Yes, it takes a little finesse to get a concentric cut. Thanks!👍