B58 VANOS REPAIR | Rough Acceleration | VANOS Actuator Diagnosis & Repair DIY
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- Опубликовано: 25 май 2022
- Logging done via MHD. Of note, the actuator for both exhaust and intake sides are identical. This job can be done in a couple hours max with basic watches and a stubby flathead screwdriver. No specialty tools needed.
No Clutch Garage: skip to 18:15 for a good look at the VANOS actuators: • B58 VALVE COVER REPLAC...
Forum Posts:
f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...
BMW Documentation:
static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/201...
(My car was already updated last recommended software version so I did not use the fix in the BMW documentation)
VANOS Actuator Part Number: 11367614288
VANOS Actuator Clip Part Number: 11128642177
Part for sale: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...
Stuff I use and like:
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OBD2 Adapter for tuning and coding:
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Wi-Fi Antenna for CarPlay Retrofit:
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3mm Spacers
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Extended Lug Bolts
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Dewalt Tool Kit
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Ratchet Extensions
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Wheel Hanger Stud
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Torque wrench
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Авто/Мото
Im glad this showed up in my feed! I've never experienced this issue but I'm glad there is now a DIY video for it just in case! Thank you mevans!
Dude you rock! Something I need to look into with being over 50k miles. Thank you 🎉
You are God sent my guy! Thank you so much! You brought me so my relief and joy now after getting this done! I’ve been looking for this solution for three years now.
Lol glad I could help!
Had the same problem thanks to you shes running buttery smooth again. It was my Intake side though 🙌🏼
I can’t wait to do this fix! Thank you for making this video. Mine is most noticeable on the highway around 1500rpm at 10-15% throttle. (M240i 20k miles).
Yup, mine was super noticeable in those conditions. Glad I could help out, it caused me so much frustration for months and the car feels so much better now 😅
Same problem here. M240i 2017! Booked in under used approved warranty.
Man what a good video brings me relief it’s pretty easy to change!!!!
Did both sides today in 15min and your video gave me the needed confidence. Solved vanos codes 130714 & 130716. It's literally just a quarter turn counterclockwise, much like a glass jar lid. Clamps stayed put in my case. Thanks.
You got lucky doing both in 15 minutes 😅
I had a different error codes but for the same part (13070C - VANOS solenoid valve, exhaust: Not controllable during start up, 130716 - Camshaft clamped). This absolutely FIXED my issue. Same symptoms as the video. Just want to thank the poster and to let anyone know. Thank you
Same code as me great to hear this is a possible fix
I had the same issue this video is perfect your helping out the community thank you
Glad I could help 👍
@mevans8646 hi there i have a bmw 330e same problem! B48 engine, Do i replace one vanos or two? The location ia behind the engine?
@@mymemories925 If you know which ones causing you trouble replace one. But I would strongly recommend to do two as preventive maintenance as you don’t want to do this tedious work later on. It seems that they are located in the same spot at the back of the engines .
@mymemories925 the B48 is transversely mounted (sideways versus straight front to back, like the B58) so your vanos actuators will likely be on one of the sides. Not sure which, I’ve never dealt with a B48. But you should have 2 actuators still, one for intake and one for exhaust.
I have exactly this problem on my 7 Series, thanks a lot for the video!!! Thank you man!!!
Thanks for the video.. very informative.
I have had once a error code 130715 VANOS solenoid camshaft jammed. Reset the code have not yet came back. But the problem was it throughout the rpm band for the most part. So I gave this a try. And now it's running perfectly.
Just watch out for the left clip 4:35 when installing it and the rubber seal on the solenoid. Both of it tends to slide out.
Thanks for helping out the community 🙏
Interesting, didn’t know it would fix that code too! Glad I could help
UPDATE: IT STARTED SEEPING OIL SO INSTALL THE RUBBER SEAL. I could smell burning oil and hear it sizzling on the exhaust when I pulled into my garage. I did not install the rubber seal with the new actuator, assuming the old one was still in the actuator slot. It evidently was not! Oil was sprayed all around where the actuator was. So I took it back out (much easier without the resistance from the seal), installed the rubber seal, and put the car back together in less than 45 minutes from beginning to end. Now the car’s good!
so did the seal you forgot, fall into the engine?
@@EscapePlan97 the one I removed at the 5:50 mark thinking the original one was still stuck there in the engine 😅
Lmao I was changing my actuator and the new one didn't fit. Till I realized the old fucking gasket was still in the engine 😂😂 we need to replace both too not just one
The same happened to me too. snizz on garage and yiop yiop on 2000rpm 130108 code on scanner about inlet vanus actuator. On my X1
Successfully replaced both of mine thanks to your video. Kudos!
How were u able to get the driver side one?
It’s the same process, it’s just a few inches over.
You saved my car, thank you!
absolutely excellent and descriptive video!
Great video buddy, I have a Mini F56 with B48 engine with the same actuators. The engine felt like the timing was off. 3 Garages all telling me there is nothing wrong. I couldn’t graph mine but I have lived with this for 2 years or so. Decided to take a chance and replace both as I found them new relatively cheap £88 for both. Not BMW originals but Febi. Oh my god, what a difference!!! Thank you so much for your video!! All the way from United Kingdom! Thanks again!
Glad I can help out! Nice to know that this is applicable to the Mini’s as well!
@@mevans8646 thanks again buddy!
Hey, I have a problem in my 3GT (B48 engine) that when driving, when the engine speed is around 1200-2000 rpm, it has a strange growl, similar to that of a diesel engine. While reading this comment, I think that maybe this part needs to be replaced in my case as well ?
Benimde ayni öyle 1000-15000 tr arasinda diesel gibi b48
@@Adamo87xxx sound more like a vacuum leak somewhere bro, check all the hoses
Helpful information I’m having the same issue 2016 340xi i notice when I start my car and try to take off just with a little throttle I had something like a miss fire but no check engine light and also sometimes my car has all the torque to the wheel but most of the time it felt sluggish like I give it gas but it’s not moving as fast I know it should so I changes the fuel tank ventilation valve to see if that was the issue but no dice so I’m a 💯 sure the actuator are the culprit thanks again for the info.
Do some data logging first just to confirm it’s the issue before you replace it. But good luck, glad I could help 👍
Lol same issues as the N52. Except its harder to get to. I really like the logging software you have.
Heaven sake , This issue has been bothering me for a while but found no answer until now!
Great video! My car is doing the exact same thing. No CEL so I've been very confused, but the torque is all over the place. I'll have to give this a try and see if that fixes things. I have a 2016 340i
Thanks! It took months for a CEL to pop up for me, and once I cleared it never came back. So definitely worth a datalog 👍 best of luck
I have a different symptom than yours and it is the rough idling. I data log on MHD and found out both intake/exhaust actual and required are off. Jumping all over the place similar to your log graph. BTW mine is a X3 M40i at 36k miles. Following your videos I ordered the Vanos actuator and once it arrives I will replace them Really appreciate your sharing! 👍🏼 hope it will solve my rough idle issue
Best of luck!
@@mevans8646 just take a look where my VANOS actuator. Man…. It sits far behind than yours in my G01 X3. I can reach my hand to touch it but impossible to actually see it….
@@liken1288 yeah it’s tough to see, you gotta go mostly by feel unfortunately. So long as you can see the metal clip that holds it in, that’s all you need. Then the rest is just fishing it out.
I think I might have this issue. 540i has 30k miles and it’s pulling timing just driving and cruising around. But I don’t get codes and it doesn’t feel sluggish. Thanks for the video
Thanks for the video. Super helpful.
4:34 Guys, watch out for the clips on the right side of the actuator (ones that are facing up). They completely fell off of the plastic bracket when I rotated the actuator. Also look out for the rubber o-ring falling when removing the actuator.
Hello mate, I've lost one -_- How did you put it back ?
I just updated the description and added a comment to this video about an hour ago with the part number for the metal clip. It’s about $5. Once you get one, it should just slot right back into place where it came from.
@@Nakinakpgm Any update? I cant get the clip that fell in to save my life. 30 minutes already attempting to put it back in place
Update… Got it in, only to have both fall out once I tried twisting the actuator in. FML. Update #2. I give up. Got the clip on multiple times, but whenever I try and twist the actuator on it wont budge and the clip falls off again. Now I’m stuck with an undriveable car, and insane amounts of stress.
@@andrewb229 Left clips you have to put it above. Right is by under.
Also thank you for making and intro and outro
You’re welcome SDP
I recently feel like when almost coming to a stop then trying to go again it feels like something is holding the car back. Also just sometimes during gear changes at semi spirited driving it feels like car is losing the grip and then grips again (that kind of feeling like loosing torque and in 1 second it comes back again). Car has 23k miles, and no codes yet but i will check the torque gauges and log vanos in mhd
Heads up guys, theres a tool called the Camshaft Intake Exhaust Vanos Solenoid Valve Remove Tool. It’s $20 and designed to make twisting the part out much easier.
Nice video! Good job. Did the Metall Clips came off? Do you have a tip for me how I can handle this operation without getting these clips off? I think it’s hard to readjust them.
Great video! How many miles was your car when the problem initially started? And how many miles did you drive before repairing it?
It had been quite a while. I drove it for at least 4-5k miles before the CEL came, and probably another 1000-1500 afterwards. I first started noticing the symptoms in the low 30,000mi range
Video was helpful to an extent. I tried doing exactly what you did but had trouble with the screwdriver, So i got a little impatient just stuck my hand back there gripped the actuator from the connector pulled counter clockwise and it came loose same with the other actuator. Had i done this first hand would have been a 20min install😅.
Not a bad way to do it, I was scared of ruining the connector though!
This video is amazing, my car was having the same issue I have a 2018 BMW 440 GC … I was having an issue with the car at idle revs were going down for a bit, I’ve changed everything ( spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel tank breather, charcoal canister, fuel pump, mass air flow sensor) and nothing! I even spoke with a person that is an expert on B58s and he said the it was normal, Same thing every now and then…. I’ve decided to do this with both sides, when I took out the old actuators I've notice that the pistons were stiff it didn’t feel like they were moving freely, so I did this DIY today I drove for a bit with no issues, the car feels smoother but I’ll give you guys an update this week to see if this was actually the issue . Thank you so much. If someone is having the same issue please let me know thanks.
Yup, my actuator also felt stiff when I removed it. So if I had to guess that’s likely your issue, glad I could help!
Did it fix your problem? let me know.
How often are you changing your oil and what oil do you use?
2 questions:
Would you reuse the old rubber seal?
I've seen some people talk about losing the metal clip, any tips?
If it comes with a new seal, I’d use it. No reason not to. As far as the clips go, I’m not really sure. Seems to just be a luck thing, some fall out and some don’t. Might be worth ordering some spares.
Hello, can someone pls help me out! I got a code ( 13070B and 120408 as a result of the first code, I think) when I go to look up replacement parts for my vanos solenoid it give me an actuator and valve part number. His actuator is the same as mine, but do i need to replace the valves? does my b46 engine even carry valves?
Thanks @mevans8646 ! Very helpful....question for you...I too am having similar symptoms ('16 340i) but no CEL but I did connect my Carly adapter and got the following:
- 11CF30 (Mixture control, multiple fault)
- 118401 (Mixture control, mixture too lean, deviation too high)
Any thoughts ?
Take a look here: ruclips.net/video/QGR-UcvUugI/видео.htmlsi=HUyVfXNbid8gNJf7
Otherwise idk, I’m not familiar with those codes.
@@mevans8646 gracias!
i have a intake camshaft out of tolerance code, the mechanic said to change this, what do you think, could it be this or timing chain do you reckon
It’s worth a shot before diving deeper into the engine searching for the issue.
I think i have the same problem. Iff i drive on the highway, lets say 100kmh the torq gauge is going up and down. And when i floor it. It goes to 600+ nm til 5000rpm and then it drops so hard to 300nm. And the hp gauge also. Im on mhd stage 2 car should do around 8 sec 100-200 but i’m on 9.7sec. The car feels so slow in the high rpm range. I did new sparkplugs gapped them at 0.022 decat downpipe. Think im gonna do new coils as wel. And i dont know if hass anything to do with the vanos but when i’m in N or P and give it a little gas till 3000/4000rpm. Its going really slow back to idle. Allmost like your dropping gas really slowly to idle but your foot is not on the gas pedal anymore when it happens.
The VANOS actuator sounds like a likely culprit. Do some datalogging to confirm though before doing anything else.
My car (540ix) is doing the same thing in low rpm but i got different codes like
- 160001 - Crankshaft sensor, signal: Missing
- D19DA9 - Signal(wheel torque drive 9, 41, 1.2) invalid, transmitter DME/DDE ive changed the crankshaft sensor already but the consumption is killing and also in low rpms in low speed i feel the car jerking but for a few times anyway is better then before changing the sensor , any doubts ? Great Video btw !
I’ve never heard of any of those codes so I’ve got no idea man 🤷♂️ sorry…But thank you! Much appreciated
Hey I know this video is old but i’m getting most of the same symptoms as you (torque gauge jumping and stuttering at low rpm) but when i did my data logs my vanos looks normal. anything else I should look at that could be causing this?
Not that I know of, I’d try asking in FB forums
I've managed to change it, that solved the issue like 90%. But I'm wondering what's the other one for that is right beside this one.
One is for the intake, the other one is for the exhaust.
Quick question bud so I’m having this issue where I’m getting the code for vanos 13070b also when I put my hand behind valve cover vanos is leaking I’m getting along of blue smoke from exhaust also a very foul smell of burnt oil do you think this is the part I need to replace ?
Yeah when the exhaust side VANOS (looking at the car from the front, it’s the left one) is leaking, it leaks directly onto the downpipe and burns off. In the video I left out the rubber seal when reinstalling that actuator, it leaked onto the downpipe and I could hear it sizzling and got a strong burning oil smell. Your rubber seal is probably in need of replacement.
I am getting p1505
Idle speed control valve closing solenoid circuit electrical
Car feels sluggish in high rpm range
Could it be the same issue you had
If it doesn’t specifically mention VANOS I doubt it’s the same problem. I’ve never heard of that code so I don’t know for sure what it could be.
Great vid - Thanks
How much throttle do you apply during monitoring, full throttle or only little ?
…I do have the same rough idling, but mainly only at ca 1500-2000rpmn and very low throttle, let’s say max 25% throttle
Yes the rough acceleration is mostly at low throttle. Heavy throttle makes it go away. But the datalogging was done in 3rd gear full throttle from 2000rpm to redline. And while the engine didnt feel super jittery, it was still super clear on the logs that something was wrong.
@@mevans8646 thanks again
Did you try to ask for a warranty fix by BMW ?
@@vollcare4076 I ran out of warranty a month or two ago, I should have at least brought it in to try to diagnose it before that happened but oh well. Simple and cheap enough to fix!
Would your car hesitate (almost like bucking from a manual car about to stall)? Also did it feel like you'd hit a wall and the RPM got stuck for a second even though you've kept on the accelerator the whole time at the same input? These are the two main symptoms I'm currently having. No CEL though. Also 1 time it was a rough cold start. Wondering if it could be my Dinantronics unit even though it's been in bypass mode for weeks now.
It did feel like it hesitated like it was about to stall, but never a feeling of hitting a wall. Still worth a data log though.
@@mevans8646 I'll have to mess around with my bluetooth OBD unit and see if I can run a log worth a damn. Not sure how else I could without having a flash tune. Thanks for the response!
@@TypicalTomTV I’m having the exact same issue right now. Did you fix this?
I've had the same thing of a feeling of hitting a wall at 1000-1300rpm when driving. Did this VANOS actuators fix your issues gents?
@@jackfovargue8442 any update on your problem? Did you changed the actuators?
Yo them corrections scare the shit out of me 🤣 better fuel needed!! Chevron 91 or 93!! lol thanks for the DIY 🙏
Yep fuel near me isn’t the greatest, I’ve tried it all. Even the “BMW M Recommended Shell 93 Octane” on the gas cap ends up correcting the same.
UPDATE 2: My intake side VANOS actuator has now gone bad under at 48k miles. Diagnosed and fixed the same way!
Shout out to you man, you’re absolute life saver! It’s the same part number for both sides correct?
@@ParkerTheRapper that is correct 👍
Hey I have a quick question I dropped one of the retainer clips and I can’t find it I tried looking online to buy a new one any help ? Do you know if it’s important
The part number is in one of the pinned comments. But yes I’d say it’s important considering it holds that part in place!
Did you end up doing a reset of the VANOS through MHD? I replaced both of mine but am still experiencing issues. While checking for fault codes I saw in the (BM3) menu there is a section for "learned adaptation reset," and one of the things listed is VANOS. Wondering if I should mess with it or not. I'm running out of DYI ideas to this hesitation on acceleration issue I'm having.
I didn’t reset adaptations, didn’t know that was a thing 🤷♂️
Did you eventually solved ur issue?
Yes. I finally went to BMW and had them install the latest software updates and that solved the issue, eventually. The car felt great for a few days, I re-flashed BM3, then a few days later it started with the weird hesitation again, but nowhere near as bad as it was. Feeling defeated, I just kept driving it as-is, and within 2 weeks the problem had completely disappeared. Just somehow...lol Haven't felt the issue since, going on maybe 2 months now. @@catalin.c
hi. thanks for the awesome video. What error code did you get?
Thanks! At the 1:13 mark I show the error, 130714 VANOS outlet control error position not reached.
Great video! Did you figure the timing out?
I believe it’s just an OTS tune thing. Most people with OTS tunes that don’t run ethanol have similar timing corrections.
Guys i ordered one with the little hole at 4:00 on the right side, not on the bottom like this one. Is that a problem? i drive a B58 too
Do have a link to the part you ordered to take a look at it?
Hey man, how did you get your m240i to show you which gear you’re in when in comfort mode? Mine only says ‘D’ not D1,D2,D3 etc. can you code it on bimmercode? Thanks!
Xhp
Correct, XHP transmission tune
Did you get to the bottom of why you where getting timing corrections? I'm experiencing the same issue....but my vanos log is all clear. Awesome video and good knowledge for any future problems thanks
MHD came out with a tune revision after this video was uploaded to address timing corrections. They’re better now.
@Mevans you still getting some timing corrections though? I'm getting up to -3 across alot of cylinders....and I've turned the boost down. She's running smooth though. My 4th gear pull is perfect, it's when I'm getting into high revs 6k in 5th and 6th
@@BAZZERBAZ you’ll always get some corrections, it’s normal.
I’m having trouble with the clip, any tips? I saw online some ppl were saying to use the actuator tool from fcp euro but it would save me some time if I didn’t have to order
I tried the actuator tool from FCP and it was too long to use properly in the engine bay. Wasn’t helpful at all. I used a stubby flat head screwdriver (maybe 3” long?”) and I was able to pry between the clip and the actuator to get the twist started. Then I reached down and twisted it out by hand the rest of the way.
@@mevans8646 I’ll try again but I’m trying to change the intake one and there is better access but I just can’t get my hand in to twist it. I also can’t really get my screwdriver for the clip towards the drivers side. Appreciate the response & vid tho. I’m praying I can do it I’ve had this issue for months
@@hoodmechanic956 ah yes. Both are very close to the firewall with little room for your hands. What I did was put some thin gardening gloves on with rubber coated fingers and that gave me good enough grip while preventing the pain of shoving my hand where it wasn’t supposed to go 😂
Do you know which sensor values in Bimmerlink correspond to the Vanos EX/IN act/req in MHD? I'm assuming we can grab this data and graph it to diagnose using bimmerlink as well.
I’m not sure, I’ve never done logging with BimmerLink. Sorry
@@mevans8646 I may have figured it out. I graphed a few different signals from bimmerlink and through process of elimination ended up with these. Not 100% if these are the right signals though so will email bimmerlink and ask. Log data: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1XPXmon0mM_XeKCGCSIUD6ENpZx21WnRunRkgXEa8Cls/edit?usp=sharing
@@nintendowiiaaa assuming you pulled the correct data, which I think you did, your VANOS looks okay
For future reference, because I had trouble finding these as well, and Bimmerlink support didn't even know, they are:
target angle camshaft inlet opens
angle inlet valve opens based on lwot
target angle camshaft exhaust closes
angle exhaust valve closes based on lwot
@@ChuckBrailsford hi Chuck, I have been trying to find this for ages thanks for sharing. My values seem to be spot on when accelerating but when I decelerate or idle they are out. My car feels like it’s breathing in when coasting to a stop??
Okay my before looks like your after, so I'm not changing mine yet 😅
currently doing the exhaust vanos actuator but its either I get the vanos actuator mounted to the valve cover or get the electrical clip on but cant mount it to the valve cover.
Yeah there’s not much slack in the wiring, best just to keep trying really. It was in there before so it should be able to go back.
@@mevans8646 exhaust side took 3 hours and the intake side took 3 minutes 😂😂😂 just got to button it all up and hope my issue is gone.
@@aldorodriguez1674 yup, took me hours too the first time. This video was VERY abbreviated lol but once you’ve done it once it’s easy! Glad you figured it out.
Anyone know wat tat could be plz
you did well, any software update after this?
I didn’t do one 🤷♂️ works fine for 10k+ miles now
I have a bmw 340i and i’m having almost the same issue with jerking in the lower rpm range, the codes that i’m getting are, Cold Start B Camshaft Position Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1 and VANOS Exhuast
Control Fault Camshaft Stuck. Do you think it could be the same problem?
I did not get the code for the VANOS camshaft stuck, only for the VANOS position not reached. If possible I’d clear the codes, see if it comes back, and datalog to see if the logs look like mine did. It may be the VANOS exhaust actuator like mine, or it could be a deeper problem with the VANOS components underneath the valve cover which is a much bigger job.
It also may be worth replacing the exhaust VANOS actuator first to see if that fixes your issue. It’s cheap and easy enough where it’ll be worth a shot.
Okay i will probably be changing out the actuators first then and see what that does. Thank you
@@aydin9658 did you change the vanos act yet? Did it resolve your issue w camshaft? Pls keep us posted.
@@aydin9658 Did it fix the problem?
Really appreciate your video.
My 2017 340i also has a rough idle and pulls very jittery at low rpm as if it's choking. When stationary, idling it gives the occasional jolts. There's also a tapping sound coming from underneath. I've replaced the O2 sensor, which made the CEL go away, but all the symptoms are still there.
Did the same monitoring as you and the Intake Vanos actual was chopping up and down the required reading.
Do you think replacing that part will finally fix it?
PS. The MHD gives the permanent error 21A02D - Combustion control: Idle irregular.
Never seen that error code before but the symptoms definitely sound similar to my own. Especially if the data logs appear similar to mine, it’s worth a shot replacing. Good luck!
@@mevans8646 Did yours also make that tapping sound, coming from the back of the engine?
It's almost like it's coming from the exhaust.
@AlexRemus no, haven’t heard of that issue before either
@@AlexRemusDid you end up replacing the Vanos intake actuator and clear the fault? My X3 m40i is showing the same "Combustion Control: Irregular idle" fault but is stalling occasionally from take off...😢
@@Igzcoin Yes, I did. And thank God for this video, 'cause I've been changing car mechanics for months, trying to get to the problem. And that was it. Now the car is running way more smoothly. The parts are cheap, so why not give it a try. I did however do a log of the actuators with the MHD app and the graph showed clear misalignments for the Ex Vanos actuator, but I've replaced both for good measure.
UPDATE 3: FOR PEOPLE WHO LOSE THE CLIPS HOLDING THE ACTUATOR, THE PART NUMBER IS #11128642177
how do you re-install the clip on the right side? I’m having trouble with they one 😢
@@briantafireyi113 I believe it slices up from the bottom, not down from the top into its little slot. Not sure if that helps 🤷♂️
@@mevans8646 thank you! that’s the part I’m having trouble with. It’s almost impossible possible to get it back in 🙃
@@briantafireyi113 yeah luckily all mine stayed in place 😅
@@mevans8646 was finally able to get it in! Now I’m having an issue with getting the actuator in. Any pointers?
After replacing both actuators, my timings are improved but my exhaust vanos graph is still all over the place. What else can be wrong?
Unfortunately there are some VANOS components inside your engine underneath the valve covers I believe. That may be your next project.
Mine also…
Bro
I have the exact Same problem with my 325i e90
I almost lost hope and thought that i went insane
I don’t know enough about that engine to tell you this is your problem
I'm curious, did your car have any of these issues before it was jacked up on steroids with the mapping?
One happened pre-tune and one post. First one at about 35k miles and second around 45k.
Mine has been like that since new.
Anybody know if bm3 has this vanos datalog feature
Somewhere in the comments I believe someone found them in BM3 under a different name, like intake and exhaust cam angle or something
Hey! Thanks alot for your video! My car is doing the same thing. it keeps stuttering whilst accelerating slightly. i gave it to the bmw garage today. lets see what they gonna say. id bet 10k its the excact same thing
I’ve seen some people say they were charged $2000 to replace this part so if that’s the case, definitely DIY it and save $1950 😂 good luck
@@mevans8646 so my dealer contacted me today. Its a known issue of the b58 Engine. BMW is gonna pay all costs of the repair.
@@ggwp-kq3sr Perfect for you 👍
How old is your car?
Still under warranty ?
@@vollcare4076 its a 2017 model, bought it 5 weeks ago from the dealer, so yeah still warranty, but BMW would pay for it anyways since it is a known issue
May i ask you sir i use m340i 2020 and i run bm3 e50 stage2 and i have vanos solenoid valve exhaust camshaft jam (130716)code my car is 28,500 km right now so if I change vanos like you the problem will fix or not sir😢
Not sure, I’m not familiar with that code or the Gen 2 B58 and what differences there may be. Try doing a datalog and see if it’s similar to mine.
I have a90 supra. The same code as you came out. Have you solved it?
@@a90monalisa yes i just change a new vanos actuator both exhaust side and intake side now the code is gone bro
@@turk1998 I have a symptom of a car jerking in a low rpm range. (ex. 8th gear 1000-1600 rpm) Did you also have that symptom?
If you had the same symptoms as me... Did the symptoms disappear after you replaced the Vanos actuator?
@@a90monalisa my symptoms is when my car idle the rpm is not stable and rpm swing from650rpm to820rpm and them after i replace it when the car idle right now it’s look stable and not swing anymore and the code are gone bro
You should always want to make videos
I got the code for the intake side, cleared it and it never returned. I'm going to swap in a new actuator since it's a super simple job. Do you plan on doing the intake side? I may just do both while I'm in there..
I did plan on it, however looking at the logs it seemed totally fine and my car drove like new only replacing the exhaust side. So I figured I’d leave it, and if it becomes an issue I’ll do it. Seems a little more accessible than the exhaust side and I’ve done the job now, so it should take no more than an hour start to finish.
Pasdle shifter from where?😢
I made a video on them, link is in the description.
Cheap Aluminum Paddle Shifter Upgrade for Your BMW!
ruclips.net/video/1hOsgcFFwDo/видео.html
Is a reset necessary? If so, how ?
I didn’t do one after replacing either of mine, it worked out fine 🤷♂️
Wtf, I saw comments on a forum thread in 2018 saying you need to remove the engine to get to it... LOL
I mean, that would certainly make it easier 🤷♂️
@@mevans8646 Just about 10x more expensive in labour if not doing it yourself lmao
Are both the same actuator ??
Yup
Purple spike = knock detected?
No the purple spikes were the torque limiter where the car cuts power
@@mevans8646 I’ll take that over knock anytime! Good video. Always nice to diagnose and repair without getting billed
@@aarondostou3888 thanks!
Part no?
In the description
@@mevans8646 can you please share the links to your before/after data logs at datazap? I would like to check log duration, sensor polling frequency and see absolute diff between ref and actual values.
I'm trying to troubleshoot a similar issue myself, collected the logs, but having a hard time analyzing it. Vanoses are a bit off, but still close. I hope if I compare my log to yours - it could clarify a few things for me.
Anyway, thank you for the video. This is super useful.
@FraZ I don’t have them anymore but if you share yours I’ll take a look
Hi@@mevans8646
Thank you! Here's some additional context.
Car:
- F30, 2018 year, AWD
- 2.0 B48, 330i engine
- Fuel: 100 RON
- MG Flasher tune with STOCK MAPS, for Decat option only
I'm trying to get the following issues diagnosed and fixed:
1) Car is not running smooth on IDLE. You can feel vibrations while sitting on the driver's seat. It happens like 80% of the time. Reproduction conditions are not clear. Warm/Cold engine, outside temperature does not matter. But there are lucky days when car runs ideal.
2) Hard upshifts and downshifts in Comfort while driving in city in heavy traffic conditions. 1-2, 2-3 and 2-1 are very noticeable and unpleasant, as if somebody is kicking the car.
Again, happens 80% of the time. Occasionally, car can drive ideally without mentioned issues.
3) I experienced "bucking" at low rpms. It happens to me 3-5 times in total for the last several months (I own it for like a year or so). It was not uphill, just a straight road at small speed low rpms in traffic.
What has been checked:
- No check engine lights
- Ran lots of tests in ISTA+, everything passed without errors
- Except Inlet VANOS test did not pass as it cancelled midway (!!!)
Actual logs:
- IDLE charts (3 csv = 3 charts). I notice a discrepancy between target and actual vanos angles (about -2/+2 degrees). datazap.me/u/fraz/idle-3-charts?log=0&data=3
- Driving: D mode, then full stop at traffic light, then driving in Manual second gear. There is also the discrepancy at IDLE, but charts are much closer while driving (it looks especially good in manual) datazap.me/u/fraz/driving-d-then-second-gear?log=0&data=3
- IDLE again, after previous attempt datazap.me/u/fraz/idle-3-charts?log=0&data=3
Now the actual question: do you think that -2/+2 degrees angle is enough to give vibrations at IDLE and lead to bad shifts while driving? Would you bother replacing Vanos solenoids?
I did my logs just doing a single pull from ~2500 to redline in 3rd or 4th gear. That’s it. Much easier to read engine parameters when things are constant like that rather then going up and down gears and engine speeds etc. If you can, try to log just one pull like that. Looking at those logs your VANOS doesn’t look too bad (it’ll never be exact) but I can’t say for certain.