Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
Scammed! I accidentally bought a fake Tudor Black Bay 58
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 22 фев 2023
- Here’s a short video of my experience accidentally buying a fakeTudor Black Bay 58. Please note that since making the video, I have opened the caseback and it houses a generic unbranded movement.
The bigger reminder is to buy from reputable sources and be extra careful when there’s no documentation, but see if you can spot the differences.
Tags: Fake Tudor Black Bay 58 Scammed Tudor fake watch buyer alert Rolex Omega clone watch rep watch super clone superclone
Please note that since I made the video, I have had the caseback opened and it is an unbranded non chronometer grade movement, probably an ETA 2824 clone. Unfortunately I can’t post photos without uploading a new separate video.
I kind of thought it would be a 2824-2 Chinese clone.
This is one of the best videos I’ve ever seen. Because it’s all about helping others and taking full responsibility for being burned in the first place. No whining, just honest reflection. So rare to find anywhere. Thanks for posting!
All of us have been bitten at one time or another. Mine was a very $$$ valuable lesson learned.
Hope the scammer is caught. The fake watch is getting so good that it’s hard to distinguish and always best to buy from reputable dealer or have the watch authenticated before purchase. Thanks for being kind to share your experience
The easiest way to tell without taking off the back is to pull the crown. If it has a ghost position it's a fake. These fakes made by a factory called ZF have a clone ETA 2824 which have a date setting which the real movement doesn't. So pull the crown, if it has two clicks it's a fake, 1 click it's 99.5% real. You can even put it in the date position and feel the date wheel moving when you turn the crown in this position. There is a way to remove the date setting by swapping out the setting lever jumper but nobody does it. Pretty fool proof method for telling if a BB58 is a fake or not without comparing anything to the real deal or photos of a real watch. That being said, the biggest tell for the ZF BB58 is the flat texture of the dial. The real Tudor dial has a slight texture to it that you can see in direct sunlight and with close inspection but it's a much harder tell than the date setting. Best of luck in your next purchase mate.
That’s great info, thanks! Yep, that’s exactly how I figured it out when I felt the phantom crown position. Too bad that was a few weeks after I purchased it:)
Printing is also flat. Rolex and Tudor dial printing is raised
@@RabbitWatchShop It's not, or at least it no longer is flat.
@@kralkatorrik34 ok expert
The rep industry is absolutely HUGE. The factories actually interact with 'professional' rep collectors who give them feedback on where they can improve. I keep a keen eye on it to better inform myself. Rolex, Tudor, Omega, AP, PP, JLC, actually, any luxury brand even somewhat entry level like Oris or Longines are repped, and it is mindblowing how good they get every iteration.
thats why you just buy a spring drive, cannot be faked without silicon foundry.
@@latenttweet a man of my own heart
Even seiko is repped. There is no safe haven
@@latenttweet
I'm sure they're working on repping those. The Chinese do have the capacity to. I'm sure the rep will cost thousands though.
Tissot PRXs are everywhere too.
Honestly other than the movement and physical presence a lot of the differences are so minute that they’re hard to detect.
Without an authentic at hand or experience with one a rep can be so hard to tell. It’s a real shame there are scumbags out there scamming people. I hope the police catch the scumbag.
What goes around, comes around; bigger, longer, and harder.
No,no and no, fine brushing is very hard to copy and in live it's the most easy telling sign, that's the reason why no one can copy the Grand Seiko,sheer complexity of 44 GS case,their micro perfection of dials,brushing and mirror polishing is impossible to copy while Tudor-Rolex cases are just slab of shinny steel easy to copy and produce.
When in doubt, always meet at your watchmaker nd have him open the watch for inspection. If the seller balks at the idea, then run.
One of the best watch YT watch videos I've seen (and I've seen a lot), for all the reasons user D W mentioned and more. To the OP, keep it up! That said, and I hope it's not kicking someone when they're down, since the OP sounds well past that point, but this is such an amateur-ish mistake, and goes to show most people have no business buying grey/private.
Thanks for this video, man! Got scammed myself from a vintage Tudor sub. I even opened the case back and all and it was signed an all. But so many things didn’t align. The serial is for a no date version, luminova and not tritium, the movement was a non hacking one.
Glad I was able to return it still. But I had to pretend I was going to buy more watches from that seller.
Indeed buy the seller.
I own several Tudors as it is my favourite brand, and I wear them daily, for fun I bought a replica of one I already own ( GMT) and it is only in adjusting the movement I can tell them apart. So it would be an easy mistake to make if you do not have a real one or can open it. great video, and a good reminder.
Do the reps have the same wow factor and heaviness as the gens?
yes
Actually, GMT is the easiet tudor rep to recognize, because the hand stack is wrong due to using a different(obviously) movement than the original. You just look at the GMT hand and know it's fake immediately.
Even with professionals, these reps get by. Case + movement is still abit challenging for black bay fakes, but those bracelets have come so close.. it's almost impossible to tell with a 100x zoom
Sorry to hear about this. This is why it’s best to wait to get a watch from an AD. So many people get burned from flippers or sellers on these online suction sites.
I’m so sorry this happened to you. Thank you for this video it helps a lot.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful
My sentiments exactly. If it takes you an extra year or two to save up and know you are getting the real deal at a flagship store, it's definitely worth walking out of said store with no worries/fears of owning a fake.
I would never buy a watch unless new from a boutique. These reps are getting scary good. Great video, very informative.
Depends on the watch.
Yeah, specially models from the 90's and such. They have them in store for 30 years waiting for you to buy them.
The pip looks a little larger, and the gilt on the bezel looks a bit pale. But tough to tell from the angles provided. On some vids of rep spotting I've seen, the richness and body of the all the dial text and minute track don't have as much body on the reps and are flatter and duller in how it plays with light.
Curious, did the clasp have the ceramic friction points? I feel like that's something that most reps would gloss over? The feeling is so smooth and effortless, yet so secure.
I've seen a ZF rep and yes it has the ceramic on the clasp. Crazy accurate!
Crazy thing I do is if I want to purchase a watch I study every thing about the replica of said watch. There are huge forums discussing what is off on the replica and if you see any of these discrepancies you know it’s fake quickly. Rather than studying in depth the real watch you are looking to buy. May sound crazy but unless you have a real one in hand to check against it’s your best option this day and age to study what is off on the fakes. Just my 2 cents.
I AGREE 👍 that's very important
Study em both meticulously. There is a gazillion places free info to get to know what to look for.
dude i do the exact same thing...
Agreed! I hope the bigger reminder is buy the seller, look for documentation etc but from now on I’ll spend time in the rep forums as well. There has been some good info in the comments on spotting reps from folks who have done just that.
Zf bb58! Great rep to wear as a daily lol! The rep lacks the warmth of the gen. Flatter dial, lume is whiter, crown stem slightly longer
My BB58 (and, I’ve read on forums, others as well) have a hacking issue where the crown needs a little extra pull to get the stem to fully seat and hack, after being unscrewed and pulled out. It’s not a new position, but a little click (sound and feeling) of the clutch finally engaging so the second hand stops. If this is what you have experienced, I would say it might not be fake. Mine keeps great time as well, winds smooth and substantial, etc.
Thanks for the reply. I wish I could add new photos to the video, but I’ve since had it opened to find an unbranded generic movement. Definitely a fake
@@ReluctantWatchCollector It is amazing how many people want this watch to be real LOL.
@@12hebrewtribes More about the person than the watch, though. Don’t want someone to be bummed without cause.
Yep, I was actually one of them 🥹
It's more of a slight turn with a click, but only one pull.
Wear it like a boss, and don't have to worry about scratching it
Wear it like a boss??? This would be a constant reminder of one's own stupidity
@@sergelegault6027 nah ....you just never have to super careful or worry about damaging it .. yah asshat
He got scammed and overpaid by a couple of thousands, but to you, it's "don't have to worry about scratching it"?
How about some compassion and lessons learned: don't buy any used watch without at least authenticating it first?
@@g43654 yes no shiht Sherlock, but he's stuck with what he's got,he knows, doesn't need us to tell him,so might at well wear it,it keeps time....relax Karen
Lmao
I've seen reps of Casio F91Ws so of course there would be midrange reps. Especially with Rolex's sibling brand.
99.9999999% of people can't tell it's a replica in a social setting
This is heartbreaking 💔 I’m going to the AD only now. I was planning on buying three used Tudor watches rather than buying one gray market Rolex explorer 1. Look’s like I’m going to shop for 2 new Tudor watches now. It could make an amazing beater watch though.
I opted to go gray market on my Explorer 1 Mark 2 and everything went well. Bought my grail watch. Just meet with the seller with the watchmaker for confirmation.
Thanks very much for your video. Upon inspection of my movement I found I was in the same situation as you. Bought my Black Bay Heritage from a dealer who got the watch from an estate sale. Removed the case and found no Tudor stamps on the movement.
The tudor bb58 in black should have guilt colour in the bezel insert aswell. Im not sure if it is the light, but it does seem to be silver in your bezel insert
The only tell for me comparing a genuine in my hands to the video, is the polished part (underside) of the clasp on the bracelet. The Tudor branding appears to be etched/ printed rather than engraved? The next would probably be impossible to tell without having a genuine next to it - The triangle on the top of the bezel looks a little off-colour and the crown looks a little larger.
I'm sorry to hear. However, very good style to put out a cautionary video.
Thanks from Denmark 🙂
Bring your own case back opener. If the seller doesn't let you open it then walk away. Modern Rolexes & Tudors have a free sprung balance.
They rep EVERYTHING. Thanks for sharing your story and this video!
They don't rep everyThing. Blackbay is one of Most faked
@@prod.bynil-oh7440 They rep $12 Casio F91Ws to Richard Milles. Point is if someone wants it there is probably a fake of it.
Thanks for sharing your story sorry that you had to experience that. I do have a bb58 and the bluebay 58 and the bb58 925. I paused your video to compare it to mine, its very close indeed, although the red triangle and the pip looks slightly off colour, the colour of the hour markers are more yellowy on the original, the crown on the fake looks larger. I wish you better luck work your watch journey in the future
you might be correct however color is hard to tell because everyone's screen shows colors differently.
I purchased a quality one for around 300 usd since I already owned a real 79230N.. comparing the two, the give away was the feeling of the bracelet on wrist and the crystal smears a lot/stays hazy if you brush up against it
I bought one on Aliexpress for $120. The main differences are: The movement is a generic unbranded movement. That is why they don’t have the see-through back. Also, the bezel action and crown are pretty rough. Finally, the GMT hand doesn’t work well or at all. Beware- these come with nice boxes. The straps and bracelets are all branded. A good beater watch.
It took me a lot of hours of research, but I can see the issues with it. It's not terrible looking, but it's clear from the tone and finishing of the hands, the post for the handstack, and the clasp engraving. All of those aspects are glaringly incorrect.
Sucks that you got scammed. It looks good though. Wear it anyway. I bought a Moonswatch that turned out to be fake, I wear it sometimes and if anyone asks (only watch enthusiasts ever ask) I tell them how I came by it and it’s a fun story. Even though it’s a fake it has some value for me.
Sorry it happened to you! Yep, if I ever wear it and someone comments on my Tudor, I’ll smile and show them this video:)
That really sucks. It’s one thing buying a replica knowing is a replica…
The seller is a real scumbag for knowingly selling a fake as authentic. I hope the police help catch them.
I'm not sure of all Black Bay models, but most I have seen have a black tube to space the crown further out from the case. I always remember that because it seems like it's packaging, but it is actually permanent. Also noticed the caseback, again not sure if it is always the same, but the one's I've seen read "*shield symbol* TUDOR MANUFACTURE CALIBRE *number*" repeated twice.
The pip at the top looks wrong. It doesn't have the metal enclosure. The bezel font and markers look to be a little off as well, size and color. Not going to lie, its hard to tell from your video. Scammers suck.
I’m curious if the clasp and bezel action where giveaways at all? A few years ago when I had a BB58 I got ahold of a replica bracelet and the clasp was absolute crap compared to the real deal. I would think the bezel action would be hard to replicate as well.
Good question. I would say the bezel action is very good, including extra resistance at the 12 position which for me was the biggest reason I thought I was safe to buy the watch. I would say the clasp and bracelet is excellent, but without having both watches in hand I can’t say for sure. I’ve spoken with my local AD, and will post back in the comments when I finally get a face to face comparison with the real deal.
The ZF rep bracelet is almost identical in action and feel. Even has the ceramic on the clasp.
Thanks for giving this video and what a horrible experience!!!!
Bad luck there. Its hard to tell from the video. I took a look at photos of a genuine and compared, there are a few things that look different. The shield on the dial looks to have thicker lines than the real one, the vertical leg of the "T" in the word Tudor on the dial looks like it flares as it goes down as opposed to having parallel sides, the "milled" part of the crown appears thinner than the genuine watch and the neck is longer as a result, also the milling on it appears to have less blunt peaks than the genuine item. The "rose" on the crown does not look that crisp (the genuine item, is extremely well defined). The pearl at the 12.00 O'clock on the bezel does not look central. Lastly, the chamfer down the side of the case is very sharp on the genuine, but looks softer on this one. But without seeing high detailed still images, these might all be an illusion of the video.
Interesting, thanks for taking the time to look. I shot this with an iPhone and cheap lighting setup, so I can’t speak to the accuracy of my video, but If I can get my hands on a real one for a comparison I’ll definitely post a followup.
It is what it is. If it keeps good time then Youre gonna have a cool beater watch. Tudor used eta before so think of it as of previous model
Same thing happened to me about 18 months ago buying online, I caught on (only because of a clear sticker on the inside of the clasp, when they should be blue) and got my money back luckily.
Word of warning, it’s very hard to tell the different, you only have a chance if you have them side by side, they are scary good, bezel, bracelet and movement all feel the same!
If you have bought a used 58 I would have it checked. The fakes have the 41 BB text on the dial, which is thinner and browner in colour and the 58 uses a bolder golden font.
Very insightfu!! Thanks very much.
No box and paper...still got the watch.....
I know nothing about watches but isn't the white pip on the red 12 o'clock triangle "off centre"?
Thanks for your honesty. It can happen to anyone.
The lume pip on the bezel jumped out to me immediately also that it is misaligned
It seems like the non-in house tudors are now using whats seems to be standard eta and sellita 2824-2 and SW200-1 movements, they are decorated and have a fancy rotor but they don't have the fancy regulator like in the past so it would be kind if easy for 1 if the 4 cloke 2824 producers in China to copy, they could even buy a real stellita movement (maybe 100 to 150 dollars in bulk for standard) and get it decorated. You can remove the ghost date position on any 2824 or clone.
Buying used I would demand to see the movement, if it's not in house then I would have to get it verified by a 3rd party.
The Tudor Black Bay, wether it's the original 41 or the 58 has a unique feature where the bezel is slightly harder to turn when it's at the prime 12 o'clock position. I don't need to tell you why so is this, but I think this is a point worth checking when you're buying a new watch.
Thanks for the info. Actually the bezel has a higher resistance on this knockoff as well and when I felt this, I felt safe enough to buy the watch without box and papers. Lesson learned, big mistake 🥺.
Sorry to hear about what happened to you, but a dead giveaway would be that bezel dot is gold finish (it should be a silver ish finishing on the genuine one)
I hope that the scum bag that this to you get what’s coming for him
Always look at the clasp. The reps have a very small code on them. Usually 3 characters. Numbers and letters.
They’re called “clasp codes”
Interesting comment, thank you. I’ve just gone over it with my magnifier and I don’t see anything. It does seem counterintuitive that anyone making a quality rep would feel obligated to put a 3 digit “tell” on the clasp but I’ll follow up here if I find anything out more about that.
worst tell ever;
a; not always true
b; fake clasp does not = fake watch
Ive noticed that some of "Vintage Tudor" mainly eBay from what I've noticed to be repainted dials and other noticable changes that are very noticeable when next to the unaltered. Everything is more crisp, when you get close enough you can clearly tell is was done by hand but from regular handling many will not notice so it's good to pay that extra bit of attention so you know what's what on your watch.
The main things to look for are the winding feel will be massively different from a real one. The screw pins on the bracelet also sit flush like on a Rolex but on real Tudor watches they have a slight curve ball end to them. Thirdly try the double locking clasp. On the fake you can pull it open by putting your finger/s underneath the clasp and pulling outwards. The real one is designed to stop just that. Lastly the print on the dial will be somewhat duller than on an original one.
Thanks for sharing the unfortunate experience. I abominate fakes or replicas of contemporary watches :/
Thanks for the comment:)
The lumepip on 13 is to greenshiny and the gold colour on the bezel is not right. The original matches perfekt with the golden hands. This are to silvery… but the case and the straps looks ident
If you can return it just get a gen bracelet and movement parts aren’t too much for these
The white dot looks odd on the red triangle and the red looks off to!
I am looking at a blackbay on kijiji right now price seems pretty low. Just wondering what province you got yours from.Waiting to see if he will send me the original receipt. Thanks
It appears to me that the bezel insert is slightly misaligned. It might just be the viewing angle. The other biggest tell for people to look out for will be the bezel action, a genuine bb58 will have a more positive stop when it’s aligned at the 12 o’clock. None of the reps have this feature as far as I know.
Thanks for the comment. Actually this bezel does have the extra resistance at 12 and when I felt that, I dropped my guard and bought the watch.
the real one has misaligned bezels and dial markers
Few differences:
1. The rivets are too small.
2. Lume pip is too dark.
3. Reference number is laser burnt.
4. Dial print is too bright.
5. The crystal is milky.
6. The crown tube is a little too long.
7. Tudor stamp on the clasp is too shallow.
Never buy a modern watch without B&P. There is no reason why the seller wouldn’t have it.
Can confirm:)
What b&p means?!
Box and papers
Thanks for this video very insightful
The only tell that I can see is possibly a misalignment of the lume dot on the bezel. The bracelet, clasp, and case looks fantastic, very tough to tell on video. One specific tell in photos or video, is the polish on the crown and the teeth, also the lume brightness and color, and QC on the application of it. Then generally the weight, sound and feel of the bracelet links, clasp, buckle, and rotor are specific tells when you have the watch in hand. Clunky sound of a Miyota is a big tell. Sometimes even the super reps have a bezel that's slightly raised. The serial numbering is repetitive on mid tier reps. But dang it's tough to justify thousands when a rep is that good, especially if you pop the case back and they rep the rotor, engravings, and machining on the face of the movement. Then you look deeper and see it's a Miyota with a mask on. Always pop that case back and get a picture before buying, or buy from a trusted dealer. It's too much money to play with, honestly. Even for a significant savings over retail.
Agreed. This wasn’t even a super clone as no attempt was made to rep the movement, but that said, before I knew what I had, I had this watch on the counter in a Tudor AD while I tried on a BB36 and no one noticed. Next week I’ll take it back to the AD and report back here on a back to back comparison.
@@ReluctantWatchCollector I heard some ADs won't even tell you, and may even service it. Ignorance is bliss, and happy customers buy watches lol
Ha, I hadn’t heard about the servicing part:) I My point was just that I wouldn’t have flashed it around in a Tudor AD had I known it was fake, but at first glance at least, it didn’t look out of place. I was definitely naive about the scale and quality of the rep industry and obviously wouldn’t attempt to purchase now without full kit.
I wonder how many people are wearing watches like this and don’t know. I reckon some grey dealers are passing them off as well.
Good question.
The applied lume dot on the bezel is not centered in the triangle. That's the first thing I noticed. Sorry you were scammed!
This got me thinking about a Bond era 40mm Omega Seamaster 300M automatic I bought many many years ago on ebay. The seller said he inherited from his father after he passed and had no use for it. No box or instructions. The watch looked legit and had signs of daily wear on the bracelet and clasp so I thought nothing of it. And I assumed the fakes back then weren't good enough to be indistinguishable. I paid around 1300 for it about 5 years ago. There's always the thought on the back of my mind that I could have bought a fake. One day I will take it to Omega to find out.
Pretty sure it’s fake. Take it to any jeweler and they’ll take the case back off in a second and tell you
@@robert039nope, it’s real afterall. I lucked out I guess.
To me the only thing that looks off is the case back- in my experience the ridged section is recessed, making it flush with the back
Thats only for ETA movements. Inhouse has the Rolex bubble style.
@@hijikataissei9623 That is true, I have the BB36 with the recessed caseback and I love that about it. Distributes the weight better IMO.
The lume pip is often a dead giveaway, the fakes have a different color and/or size lume pip. The example in this video also has the placement wrong, it is a bit off center
Its still a really nice looking watch. Just enjoy it.
The bezel insert could be the giveaway. Looks dull with no warmth and not properly seated.
I'm a Happy owner if a bb58 bought at retail at the ad. I see my watch everyday and can't tell no difference with yours. I'm actually surprised you said is fake
Glad you like it! Mine’s definitely fake, I’ve since opened it up. Of course, I wish I had waited for the AD s as well:)
The pip centre looks a little bigger than the original. 🇬🇧
Visually I can't tell, it looks the exact same as mine that I got from the AD. Maybe they took the movement out and swapped it with a clone? The exterior looks all original to me
I looked a few days ago, and a good rep of this model goes for 300 dollars. No one swapped out the movement.
@@12hebrewtribes It really is a super clone then. I've owned 2 BB58's - first one I bought from craigslist, sold it, then bought it back brand new from the boutique - thankfully both of mine are legit (I hope)
Thanks. Agreed that the movement wasn’t swapped out and I swear this clone is identical to the original, and that was about five months after the model came out. I took it off at a Tudor AD to try on a BB36 before I knew better and the AD never noticed. Bezel and crown action (aside from the phantom date) are perfect.
Unless you know EXACTLY the tell signs for a specific model dont ever buy grey. You have no idea how close some of them are.
This video never really shows it, but under the "flap" that makes up the clasp, there are white ball type things on the genuine one. It may have been the angle or the lighting but I don't see them on this
Interesting comment. You’re the second commenter to mention the ceramic bearings on the Tudor clasp. I had no idea. I’ll reply to the comments here if I can get a chance to check mine against a real one in person.
I have a BB58 and the things I can spot from your video is the lume pip on the bezel looks to be off centered and too big. In your video, the gap between the pip and the triangle sides are not even. On the backside, the engraving on the serial and the reference numbers look to be larger than the authentic engraving on mine. Additionally, the numbers look dark in your video like as if they have black ink on them, but perhaps that may just be from the magnification. Not sure if it's bad color on the video, but the printing on your bezel appears to be a very faint gold and the lume on the hour markers appear to be whiter than the off white on the real BB58. Looks like your crown is also larger too. The Tudor name on the inside of your clasp appears to be laser etched the authentic is engraved. These are all things that one can never know unless they have handled and seen the real McCoy in person before. For me, the biggest tell is the $1K off retail pricing just 6 months after release for what was the hottest watch that year it was released. Even then, it's hard to tell without having one side by side at the time of purchase. Sorry to hear about your buying experience.
Check the serial number, not align! the tudor movement when u wind it, have a continuous clicks noise soft click noise no other movement can copy that hope that helps and never buy tudor with no paper 😉
Thanks for the info! Alignment is actually good, I just had it off one click:) Yep, lesson learned on buying only with papers…
Always ask for papers of authentication. Including the timegrapher specifications date and time of testing and certification. Actual reference number authentication as well. No papers no sale. Also before any sale get the watch checked over by a certified jeweler or watch boutique. If the seller refuses, the deal is off.
Is there / was there any legal action you could take? I certainly don't know what the legal system is in Canada but I'd be interested to see if you thought about anything you could do.
Thanks for the reply. This was a private sale and it was weeks before I realized what was going on and by then the account and contact info was deleted. If it has been a commercial sale that would’ve been totally different.
Hi there I’d like to do a comparison video of this fake to the real - do you still own this rep and if so, can I purchase it from you?
People always say never buy watch new from AD, but apparently today that's the only way you guaranteed to get the authentic watch
Also, I like to Google serial numbers. Fakes use the same numbers in huge batches, even on different models within a brand. A real serial number will have effectively zero results. (Other than maybe a listing of that one actual real watch).
If i ever get stuck with a fake im going to make an epoxy table with the watch parts
Damn. Sorry man 😢
They’re actually making fake Tudors! Dang I need to check mine!
That’s a good looking fake .. I’m not surprised it fooled you. Sure looks the part. I’d have to see it closer to notice any inconsistency. But on first blush that does look genuine.
There are a lot of differences;
the crown is slightly larger, the dial is smoother that the original, the gilt colouring is slightly off, the faux rivets on the bracelet protrude more etc. Obviously the date adjustment is a dead give away that the wrong movement is present, you could have also checked the power reserve. The weight of the watch will be incorrect I’m sure as well.
You live and learn!
Yep, probably all true. I just didn’t think that high quality reps were a thing that close to a new model release so I let my guard down. Yep, love and learn!
It’s tough to check the power reserve at the time of purchase on a private sale, but you’re right, lots of red flags and lessons to be learned! I’m usually much more cautious of course.
@@ReluctantWatchCollector My comment is not a knock on you buying the watch by the way, having not seen the original up close or spent any meaningful time with it would make it very easy to mistake a good replica for the original I’m sure!
@@charlieshimmin976 No worries! You’re right, I had only briefly held the real one briefly at an AD a few months earlier and without a real one in hand, it’s tough to tell the differences. I did the video more about due diligence than spotting a fake BB58, just a warning that the clones are really good.
@@PepRex thanks for the comment. I believe you are right about the power reserve on clone movements. There was no way I could check it at the time of purchase but I could’ve left it unworn for a couple of days after I bought it to see that, but wore it daily and wasn’t thinking it may be fake at the time. I’ve since had the case opened and it has a generic non chronometer movement which I highly doubt has a 70 hour power reserve.
the lume pip at the center of the bezel is a big tell.
There are two things that visually stand out about this watch, maybe 3. One the bezel appears to be misaligned, I've never seen a Tudor with a misaligned bezel. Maybe that happens, I've just never seen it. Two the model number lasered on the back appears to be fuzzier than it normally is and possibly three the end links appear to not fit perfectly flush with the case. Tudor has practically no room between the lugs and the endlinks, they fit absolutely perfectly on a gen watch.
I can’t speak to the differences, but I accidentally had the bezel one click off. It’s actually good as far as I can tell.
The only visual difference I was able to find, was the crown, it is too far out
Off the bat I can see hollow endlinks which is a tell for me.
If the replica Tudor could not be spotted but for the “phantom date” position, I would say, for nearly all intents and purposes, it’s just as good as the real thing at a great price. Nice acquisition.
I have a red Ferrari. It has a Ford Focus engine in it. Although the gear lever has 5 forward gears on it...there are only 4 actual gears. I paid 90% of the usual price for the car. Would you say it's a 'nice acquisition'?
@@stevewilliams5428 The basic function of a watch, any watch, is to tell accurate time. A cheap, battery powered quartz watch can accomplish this better than any automatic watch. We choose to pay a premium for certain automatic watches for their aesthetic qualities. Their complicated movements obviously contribute to their value, but these are “hidden qualities” largely out of sight, particularly with watches that don’t have a clear back display. The function and value of a sports car like a Ferrari is much more complicated than simple time keeping. However, if you could buy a car that looked like a real Ferrari, that performed nearly the same as a genuine Ferrari, but the gear shifter had a tiny little “phantom skip” that felt slightly different from a real Ferrari, but cost a fraction of the price, all other things being the same, I would also say that would be a great purchase, and definitely a nice acquisition.
@@oaktree1628 The purpose of a car is to transport a person(s) from A to B.
@@oaktree1628 He paid 1k under market value, so roughly 3.5k for a fake watch that he could have bought for $600....So it's very far from a 'nice acquisition'.
@@stevewilliams5428 sure, the utilitarian aspect of a car is to transport, but the premium aspect of a Ferrari is that it is an Italian work of art - just like a premium brand Swiss watch is a work of art. The Tudor he bought is very much like a work of art - whoever made that studied the original and replicated it so closely that it fooled even the most discerning eye. That’s to be admired.
The crowns are usually the easiest giveaway.
ouch, that hurts!
I have a rep bb58 and also own luxury watches that in total cost as much as a good few years old used car. I think what you have there is a ZF v2 BB58 rep. Reps can be fun if you know what you're doing, but of course be careful of buying a fake if you're trying to buy a genuine one. It's actually because of my rep bb58 i decided to buy a genuine one. Some people in the comments say yours is a fake because it has a misaligned bezel, false, misaligned bezels on gens, also yours DOES have ceramic bearings in the clasp albeit not as good as the genuine. The rep bb58 uses an asian 2824 with date wheel (hence the ghost date on yours), the winding isnt as smooth as a MT bb58 movement (of course no 2824 has smooth winding even swiss), the rep bb58 also has a bad pip that is shaped slightly different, the bracelet is also more "rattly" as the endlinks don't have a tight fit on the springbars, the lume on a rep bb58 is good, except for the hands that are dimmer, the printing on the genuine bb58 is slightly raised as well and more '3D' effect due to higher quality, the rep bb58 has a flat looking dial. Funny thing is, my rep bb58 has perfect bezel and indices alignment, meanwhile there was a handful of genuine bb58 i saw while shopping that had misaligned 6 oclock markers, bezels, etc. All in all high end reps are incredible value, and I can swim with them after servicing and almost keep as good time as my genuine luxury watches, but they are no substitute for the real thing if that's what you're really after.
Thanks for the detail! At some point I’d like to compare them in person, but in any case, I can’t see paying for a real BB58 now. The Tudor is a still great watch but this has killed the vibe for me.
How long is your power reserve when fully wound? Should be 70 hrs. That may tell you the movement is not what it’s supposed do be.
I’ve since opened the caseback and it’s definitely not real and probably less than 70 hours. Lots of red flags on my purchase but you can’t really check the power reserve when you’re buying the watch on a private sale.
@@ReluctantWatchCollector That’s true! It’s an awful thing to happen…sorry to hear. It’s scary how many fakes are out there.
Afaik, reps don't have the stop at the 12 o clock position when the rotating bezel.
That was exactly my problem. Mine does, and when I felt that, I let my guard down and bought the watch.
How much does it cost to verify if the watch is real at local AD?
Note: it’s not tropical dial like the original
I got a fake Longines from my uncle. He thought it was real. But thats why you need a good lupe. Look for sloppy printing, pittted metal, the signed crown is usually not very crisp. Play on the bracelet, laser printing on metal, cheap leather that is sometimes glued rather than stiched and the logo is not stamped deep into the leather. The most important is to check the movement, mine was a japanese quartz, rather than an ETA QUARTZ. If you handle a lot of quality watches, just the feel and weight of the thing tells you something is wrong.
Hate it tell you this but the Japanese quartz movement will be better quality than the SWISS quartz,
Japan invented the quartz , while it was the Swiss who made the mechanical movement as good as they are
@@ChrisJones-ki2bx good point.
Most people want “Swiss movement” regardless of automatic but certainly with quartz. To each their* own but lucky for us there’s tons of options and competition.
The lume pip looks of vs a real one. And the bezel is a 120 click bezel instead of a 60 click bezel.
This is a 60 click bezel.