I must apologies that this one is a bit longer than it really needs to be, but I wanted these videos to be a one stop shop for a new/novice builder as well so I run through the basics pretty thoroughly. Feel free to skip around if needed! Oh, and for a detailed optic mounting video, check out- ruclips.net/video/gZS_ITI5po0/видео.html
thanks for allowing me to skip around. I'd like to see this in a more Erik Cortina's "6.5 needs more" series. (currently, I'm wondering if lapping or thermofitting will make my 18.5 barrel group tighter....)
For some reason I feel like I’m home every time I watch a Brownells video. Like Caleb is my rich cousin from my mom’s side that lives out of state. Even though I don’t see him often, it’s always nice to catch up on video.
Now i see where i messed up. I didn't take a sip of coffee before the trigger but rather after. Got it now! Im glad im not the only one who always grabs the wrong hex wrench the first time.
The coffee meme at brownells keeps getting better and better 😂😂😂 Incredibly informative video and Caleb is a real expert that really breaks things down. 10/10
Before installing the trigger guard pivot roll pin, I recommend putting a little anti-seize grease on it. I like your idea of greasing the safety detent and spring before installing them. Also, your technique for installing the forward lower receiver pivot take-down pin is clever.
Planning my first build here in the next week or so when everything comes in. Watching these 2 reduced my anxiety about it by a ton. You completely put it together in about 20 minutes of assembly time, with an added 1 hour 40 minutes of great explanatiin. Master work there, thank you.
This is an excellent series. I’m starting a new build and it’s good to have a refresher course to reference. I kinda winged the first build and wanted to improve my overall build quality. Thanks for the information, guys.
Caleb, you do a great job keeping your presentations detailed and interesting. Dry wit helps. Brownells is an excellent supplier to those that work with firearms, and your presentations complement that.
That is a sweet rifle, great parts selection, I love that stock. I did a billet lower that has the screw for making it fit tightly. Mine was already so tight that I didn't have to tighten the screw at all, there's no play whatsoever. I used a VLTOR MUR upper and a 17 Design billet lower. I just ordered the original recoil mitigation system made by VLTOR with the Forward Controls castle nut, and B5 end plate with the QD socket. I also took a little buffing wheel on my Dremel with metal polishing sticks and polished the detents, I even did the mating-interfacing surfaces on the safety. It makes even basic mil spec parts work really smooth, but does not add any slop. You do not want to use anything that is really removing metal, other than a literal microscopic amount. This is just a cloth wheel and a metal polishing stick that is not aggressive at all, but just puts a mirror finish on the metal. You would not want to change the dimensions of anything.
To be fair, ive seen a few different profiles on the safety detents (for mil spec safetys but also a couple different aftermarket companies too) even from the same “manufacturer” (probably they sourced it from different actual parts makers) ... but i agree, dont need to be removing metal... just as long as the detents are positive and dont move the saftey under recoil.
Wasn't even aware of that tension screw in the lower to be honest. The stripped lower I built had the hole but no screw, so now I gotta get one to clean up my wobbly upper, thanks for enlightening me.
Love the videos ! When leveling the firearm to install the optic… since the optic is mounted on the receiver, I level off of the receiver instead of the handguard. Keep up the great content !
Fantastic videos, parts 1 & 2. I like using my hands and turning wrenches. I have been toying with the idea of building my own rifle. I have been researching and found these excellent videos. Lots of great information in these. Going to be starting soon and these will be my build reference. Great job!!!
I enjoyed and still do these videos just like the many made in the past, wanna see more range and zeroing as well as Steve phosphate and re finish pistol slides!!!!
I used a front pivot pin too for every build I've done. That trick you had is either black magic or years of experience. I normally launch at least one detent pin on every build. I don't know how you do it, but I'm going to give it a shot.
try putting in another take down pin from the other side first to capture the spring/detent then push the through with the permanent pin from the correct side..
I have made an order of assembly mistake a few times. Put in the bolt catch BEFORE I put in the mag catch. What a PAIN! I also use a wooden dowel (chopstick) to push in the mag catch but you got to be 'hambedextrus' to make it work...don't have a nifty tool like you do Caleb! Also Wheeler makes a cool tool to press in the trigger guard pin. I also use it to push in the pin in aftermarket trigger shoes for Glocks! I think Geissele could take a few thousands off the Maritime bolt release paddle to clear the hammer pin.
I watched part 1 about your build and you mentioned the bolt carrier group. You don't have to go with a Sharps bolt carrier group but there is other cheaper enhanced bolt carrier groups that will take up the slop in your upper receiver
What slop are you speaking of? Like the inner diameter dimension? If so buying quality milspec parts negates that. Not to mention that the carrier shouldnt be snug at all in the carrier, theres a spec for the carrier id and "ways" inside. And spec for carrier "ways" or contact surfaces.
The set screw introduces more tolerance into the system. I build a bunch of AR platforms and I always chose components that are properly fitted or that can be adjusted. Say what you want, but anything that spreads the receiver fitment apart induces another form of dispersion into the system. Look beyond the old information and do your own testing to see what works. Every single AR I accurize that uses the set screw or the wedge doesn't shoot consistent groups. The reason is when the receivers are pushed apart there is more of a chance for the upper receiver to rock side to side as well as move laterally along the pins due to the fulcrum being reduced to a smaller point of contact. I know a ton of people are going to say that I'm wrong. That's your opinion. It takes more than a good barrel to make an AR platform perform at it's highest level. I have done my own testing to develop my build procedures and they work every single time. Everyone is still using antiquated torque specs and they don't understand tolerance stacking and the effect on overall accuracy. I have taken some very high end builds, applied my methods and have always seen an improvement in accuracy and reliability. I don't think in terms of everything is set in stone when it comes to firearms. I check everything. I believe that it's broken until I check it. With that said, let the hate begin.
The optic screws needed to be torqued again after you did the criss cross, as you tighten the other screws the first screw you tightened will be loose a lot of times
40:38 just go buy the wheeler professional scope level!!! Level the upper reciever, match the barrel level to it (that's your reference level) and then level your scope.
The first time I did it a few months ago, it was very easy. Used a razor blade to hold down the detent while I pushed in the pin by hand. Incredibly simple
I like to put the trigger group in before the bolt catch because the hammer can help hold the bolt catch in place. Especially helps with roll pin bolt catches.
Thank you, really enjoyed the video. I am interested in the impact the lapping had on your groups. You mentioned you took that receiver from another build, I realize the other build might not have been comparable but if it was, how much difference did the lapping actually make?
User preference but I would call it essential use for dawn/dusk applications where the naked eye can pick up well in dim light conditions but will make the reticle without illumination harder to place accurately
If you want the illuminated reticle, the strike eagle 3-18x44 has the illuminated reticle and its a pretty nice scope. I put it on my long range 6mm ARC
The decision comes down to you and how you use your rifle. Many daytime shooters love illuminated reticles. But in the army, we use dots or chevrons because illuminated reticles, even at the lowest setting, acts to wash out your night vision through your scope. Ya know, that rod and cone thing in the back of your eyeball. But it’s totally user preference. I use both.
At 69,with Cataracts,and poor hand strength, I just finished a nice Retro build of a Vietnam style CAR-15.With a lot of Brownells parts and tools. Great fun ,and real nice.🏆🪖🔧
Another fantastic video, thank you for sharing! I watched both videos in this series and I might have missed the answer to my question so I apologize in advance, but what is the twist rate of that barrel?
Why didn't you lap the scope rings? After all the lapping you did on the upper I thought you would have done the scope rings too. Is that like a Trijicon thing that they make it so good it doesn't need lapping?
I think its unusual to put a folding stock on a accurate AR build...especialy after mentioning how tighter tolerance between the upper and lower as well as a tolerance on the stock can affect the shooters control
Over extended use ive seen the set screw start to wear into the lug, but you could just tighten the screw up a bit. The wedge wont cause wear, but can be tricky to cut just right and fall out. I use the wedge in reciever sets w more slop than id like. I like the wedge personally cause i can cut the wedge for tension i like. With my set screw ones, you just adjust till contact, but also making sure your takedown pin goes in without a fight.
It would be nice if you would link the complete AR build tutorial in the description. Trying to search for it I get 8 million videos none o0f which is the right one. More important: it would be REALLY nice if you showed each part in closeup before installing it. You just pull springs and pins from your box and install them and all I can see is your fingers.
Maybe it would have been nice to show a standard bolt release install without the fancy screw in pin. And you kind of buzzed through one of the trickier little details: the pivot pin install. I know you have another video on that but why not just show it all on one video?
Your fingers were almost always in the way, you failed to identify supporting parts, and ignored the fact most of us are using stock type parts. Still very helpful, thank you. C-
I must apologies that this one is a bit longer than it really needs to be, but I wanted these videos to be a one stop shop for a new/novice builder as well so I run through the basics pretty thoroughly. Feel free to skip around if needed! Oh, and for a detailed optic mounting video, check out- ruclips.net/video/gZS_ITI5po0/видео.html
thanks for allowing me to skip around. I'd like to see this in a more Erik Cortina's "6.5 needs more" series.
(currently, I'm wondering if lapping or thermofitting will make my 18.5 barrel group tighter....)
The long videos are great, but I think you guys should get some less uptempo music to accompany it, or just turn it off.
Do not apologize for perfection.
"Sorry I gave you a comprehensive video"
No. No apologies. 10/10 content.
Not sure that's a Radian selector.
Some of us enjoy long, detailed videos even if we are familiar with the subject. Thank you for making these.
For some reason I feel like I’m home every time I watch a Brownells video.
Like Caleb is my rich cousin from my mom’s side that lives out of state.
Even though I don’t see him often, it’s always nice to catch up on video.
Comment of the year. “Cuz dimples are cuter”
You my friend are a gem.
Now i see where i messed up. I didn't take a sip of coffee before the trigger but rather after. Got it now! Im glad im not the only one who always grabs the wrong hex wrench the first time.
Coffee timing is important!
The coffee meme at brownells keeps getting better and better 😂😂😂
Incredibly informative video and Caleb is a real expert that really breaks things down. 10/10
Before installing the trigger guard pivot roll pin, I recommend putting a little anti-seize grease on it. I like your idea of greasing the safety detent and spring before installing them. Also, your technique for installing the forward lower receiver pivot take-down pin is clever.
I really appreciate this current set of videos since I'm building my first AR-15 as we speak
Planning my first build here in the next week or so when everything comes in. Watching these 2 reduced my anxiety about it by a ton. You completely put it together in about 20 minutes of assembly time, with an added 1 hour 40 minutes of great explanatiin. Master work there, thank you.
Thanks for watching!
I like the brand new Geisselle bolt release that is just a boat oar hot glued to a standard release.
Lol is it the Maritime by any chance ?
This is an excellent series. I’m starting a new build and it’s good to have a refresher course to reference. I kinda winged the first build and wanted to improve my overall build quality. Thanks for the information, guys.
Caleb, you do a great job keeping your presentations detailed and interesting. Dry wit helps. Brownells is an excellent supplier to those that work with firearms, and your presentations complement that.
That is a sweet rifle, great parts selection, I love that stock. I did a billet lower that has the screw for making it fit tightly. Mine was already so tight that I didn't have to tighten the screw at all, there's no play whatsoever. I used a VLTOR MUR upper and a 17 Design billet lower. I just ordered the original recoil mitigation system made by VLTOR with the Forward Controls castle nut, and B5 end plate with the QD socket.
I also took a little buffing wheel on my Dremel with metal polishing sticks and polished the detents, I even did the mating-interfacing surfaces on the safety. It makes even basic mil spec parts work really smooth, but does not add any slop. You do not want to use anything that is really removing metal, other than a literal microscopic amount. This is just a cloth wheel and a metal polishing stick that is not aggressive at all, but just puts a mirror finish on the metal. You would not want to change the dimensions of anything.
To be fair, ive seen a few different profiles on the safety detents (for mil spec safetys but also a couple different aftermarket companies too) even from the same “manufacturer” (probably they sourced it from different actual parts makers) ... but i agree, dont need to be removing metal... just as long as the detents are positive and dont move the saftey under recoil.
Never seen something like this built. This is a great vid!
Wasn't even aware of that tension screw in the lower to be honest. The stripped lower I built had the hole but no screw, so now I gotta get one to clean up my wobbly upper, thanks for enlightening me.
Great videos on the ar-15 enjoyed watching them
Love the videos ! When leveling the firearm to install the optic… since the optic is mounted on the receiver, I level off of the receiver instead of the handguard.
Keep up the great content !
Fantastic videos, parts 1 & 2. I like using my hands and turning wrenches. I have been toying with the idea of building my own rifle. I have been researching and found these excellent videos. Lots of great information in these. Going to be starting soon and these will be my build reference. Great job!!!
I enjoyed and still do these videos just like the many made in the past, wanna see more range and zeroing as well as Steve phosphate and re finish pistol slides!!!!
I used a front pivot pin too for every build I've done. That trick you had is either black magic or years of experience. I normally launch at least one detent pin on every build. I don't know how you do it, but I'm going to give it a shot.
try putting in another take down pin from the other side first to capture the spring/detent then push the through with the permanent pin from the correct side..
Nah, definitely black magic
I use an old drill bit (Obviously smooth end) as a slave / guide pin. Can I still say that? I Just Did!
I have made an order of assembly mistake a few times. Put in the bolt catch BEFORE I put in the mag catch. What a PAIN! I also use a wooden dowel (chopstick) to push in the mag catch but you got to be 'hambedextrus' to make it work...don't have a nifty tool like you do Caleb! Also Wheeler makes a cool tool to press in the trigger guard pin. I also use it to push in the pin in aftermarket trigger shoes for Glocks! I think Geissele could take a few thousands off the Maritime bolt release paddle to clear the hammer pin.
These are awesome videos!!!
Oh, look at Mr. Professional Gunsmith here, flexing on the scrubs by nailing the takedown pin detents on the first go.
Nice instructional on proper optic mounting
I FRIGGING LOVE THIS DAMN CHANNEL ❤❤. OMG, KEEP UP THE FANTASTIC JOB FOLKS
I watched part 1 about your build and you mentioned the bolt carrier group. You don't have to go with a Sharps bolt carrier group but there is other cheaper enhanced bolt carrier groups that will take up the slop in your upper receiver
Out of curiosity, why would you want to take up the slop?
What slop are you speaking of? Like the inner diameter dimension? If so buying quality milspec parts negates that. Not to mention that the carrier shouldnt be snug at all in the carrier, theres a spec for the carrier id and "ways" inside. And spec for carrier "ways" or contact surfaces.
The set screw introduces more tolerance into the system. I build a bunch of AR platforms and I always chose components that are properly fitted or that can be adjusted. Say what you want, but anything that spreads the receiver fitment apart induces another form of dispersion into the system. Look beyond the old information and do your own testing to see what works. Every single AR I accurize that uses the set screw or the wedge doesn't shoot consistent groups. The reason is when the receivers are pushed apart there is more of a chance for the upper receiver to rock side to side as well as move laterally along the pins due to the fulcrum being reduced to a smaller point of contact. I know a ton of people are going to say that I'm wrong. That's your opinion. It takes more than a good barrel to make an AR platform perform at it's highest level. I have done my own testing to develop my build procedures and they work every single time. Everyone is still using antiquated torque specs and they don't understand tolerance stacking and the effect on overall accuracy. I have taken some very high end builds, applied my methods and have always seen an improvement in accuracy and reliability. I don't think in terms of everything is set in stone when it comes to firearms. I check everything. I believe that it's broken until I check it. With that said, let the hate begin.
Talk to me about the antiquated torque specs. Where can I learn more to evaluate the new torque specs. Thank you.
Really helpful. Great teaching style
The last two radian saftys i bought have had spring and deten to retain levers to barrel
Outstanding sir...thank you
Learned a lot thanks for a great video.
Johnny Cash out here building AR's like Legos.
Love the super tricon trigger!
Great video, thanks
I would like an AT4 in my gun safe. When does Brownells plan to offer them on the website?
The optic screws needed to be torqued again after you did the criss cross, as you tighten the other screws the first screw you tightened will be loose a lot of times
Yup, best to always confirm torque a couple times on optics
Great video keep them coming. Got a lot of info off this!
40:38 just go buy the wheeler professional scope level!!! Level the upper reciever, match the barrel level to it (that's your reference level) and then level your scope.
It would be awesome to see you take it to the range....
I spoke too soon!
😂😂😂
Looking forward to range day!
How easily you installed the front pivot pin is wild
The first time I did it a few months ago, it was very easy. Used a razor blade to hold down the detent while I pushed in the pin by hand. Incredibly simple
It's a norgon style ambi safety. I dig them
I like to put the trigger group in before the bolt catch because the hammer can help hold the bolt catch in place. Especially helps with roll pin bolt catches.
Thank you, really enjoyed the video. I am interested in the impact the lapping had on your groups. You mentioned you took that receiver from another build, I realize the other build might not have been comparable but if it was, how much difference did the lapping actually make?
I was looking at that scope, but notices that the reticle is not illuminated. How important is illumination on a scope like that?
User preference but I would call it essential use for dawn/dusk applications where the naked eye can pick up well in dim light conditions but will make the reticle without illumination harder to place accurately
If you want the illuminated reticle, the strike eagle 3-18x44 has the illuminated reticle and its a pretty nice scope. I put it on my long range 6mm ARC
The decision comes down to you and how you use your rifle. Many daytime shooters love illuminated reticles. But in the army, we use dots or chevrons because illuminated reticles, even at the lowest setting, acts to wash out your night vision through your scope. Ya know, that rod and cone thing in the back of your eyeball. But it’s totally user preference. I use both.
Brownells should sell those aluminum vice jaws..
At 69,with Cataracts,and poor hand strength, I just finished a nice Retro build of a Vietnam style CAR-15.With a lot of Brownells parts and tools. Great fun ,and real nice.🏆🪖🔧
I approve bringing back the word “Gnarly”
“That’s cool, now spray paint it” ONE OF US ONE OF US ONE OF US
Hey, great series. But, whatever happened to a video on installing a PDQ lever that you said was coming last year?
"That's Cool, now Spray paint it." And WE ARE HERE FOR IT!! 😂😂 7 DAYS!! 😅
The offset on the scope is driving me crazy. Why not put the mount forward on the upper receiver and even the gap somewhat?
Great Video 👊
Do they make an aftermarket kit for lowers that don't have a tensioning screw?
That's a cool build
cant believe u didnt use the radian talon ambi 45 safety. They are by far my favorite safeties, nothing is close.
Another fantastic video, thank you for sharing! I watched both videos in this series and I might have missed the answer to my question so I apologize in advance, but what is the twist rate of that barrel?
Did they change the Radian Talon install? Mine has a super annoying spring and detent that's a pain to work with
Why the separate , roll pinned bottom section to the trigger area versus just a solid metal section like other firearms?
how do you choose quality parts when so many options
Which bolt is being used?
Anyone know what type of box that is? I like the organization of it.
Brownells!
@@brownells Thanks!! Is it the Armorers Case?
About time Brownells has Springco.
Another good video
Caleb, have you ever built a lefty upper receiver/rifle? Or is it just a matter of familiarity learned with your service rifle?
That selector doesn't look like the Radian Talon that I've got. Did they change the design recently, or is that selector from another mfr perhaps?
The scope mount snag-free knobs look like they might potentially deflect brass. Can they be swapped to the driver's side?
Great video, but very surprised you didn’t use a plumb-bob to validate that the reticle was perfectly aligned.
Did 3 complete AR builds by the time this guy did just this lower. I think he needs some remedial AR training 😂
Caleb, if you need help mounting your scope were here to help.
------ US Navy
Why didn't you lap the scope rings? After all the lapping you did on the upper I thought you would have done the scope rings too. Is that like a Trijicon thing that they make it so good it doesn't need lapping?
Lapping is only really necessary when using two piece rings, quality one piece are g2g.
Who makes the green tool box. Would be nice to have.
We do!
@@brownells Thank you.
@@brownells I am having trouble finding it on your website. What is the name or sku?
That's cool, now spray paint it. HE SAID THE THING 🫶
Arisaka scope levelers could help
I use the word gnarly on a daily basis, as well as support and encourage its use.
You guys have the link for that master parts kit?
What are your thoughts on lapping the upper receiver?
See part 1
Beautiful
What stock are you using. I can’t find it on BCM’s site
B5
What kind of buttstock you installed thankyou for answer
Great vid thanks!
Cool thanks
I think its unusual to put a folding stock on a accurate AR build...especialy after mentioning how tighter tolerance between the upper and lower as well as a tolerance on the stock can affect the shooters control
Does the coffee also count as a tool ?
I think it falls under the "shop supply" or "lube & supply" category XD
My favorite trigger is my timney 3lb single stage
How much does the rifle weigh?
Sweet, thanks.
what bcg did you use ?
Brownells
@@brownells gottcha, i guess i missed that in the last video
Thank you
What are your thoughts on accu wedge vs set screw?
Set screw > wedge
Over extended use ive seen the set screw start to wear into the lug, but you could just tighten the screw up a bit.
The wedge wont cause wear, but can be tricky to cut just right and fall out.
I use the wedge in reciever sets w more slop than id like. I like the wedge personally cause i can cut the wedge for tension i like. With my set screw ones, you just adjust till contact, but also making sure your takedown pin goes in without a fight.
I use excessive coats of spray paint on both the upper and lower. seems to do the trick 🙂
It would be nice if you would link the complete AR build tutorial in the description. Trying to search for it I get 8 million videos none o0f which is the right one.
More important: it would be REALLY nice if you showed each part in closeup before installing it. You just pull springs and pins from your box and install them and all I can see is your fingers.
AR 15 video gets a 👍
Dude would be trouble in 1952
My bushmaster upper and lower receivers have zero play at all between them
Maybe it would have been nice to show a standard bolt release install without the fancy screw in pin. And you kind of buzzed through one of the trickier little details: the pivot pin install. I know you have another video on that but why not just show it all on one video?
Isn’t that the FCD safety?
The FCD uses a roll pin
It's not, but I also don't think it's a Radian
Gnarly...I'm on board
new to this hobby, thank you for making look attemptable lol.
That’s cool, now spray paint it. Legend
Your fingers were almost always in the way, you failed to identify supporting parts, and ignored the fact most of us are using stock type parts. Still very helpful, thank you. C-
does anyone else see the rocket launcher in the safe 😂
👍👍👍👌