If you can't get the washer basket drive hub to sit flush, but pretty close, try screwing in the screws to snug it down that last bit I was hitting mine with a rubber mallet and it still wouldn't sit flush. I cracked the first one I tried installing! And I spent a long time cleaning the shaft with some wire brushes as well but it still wouldn't sit flush. After ordering a second one it still wouldn't sit flush. But a light bulb went off and I thought "let me try snugging it down by using the screws!" And it worked!! Hopefully this saves someone A LOT of frustration and the cost of ordering a second one! Rest of the video was excellent. And the spindles on my old washer basket drive hub were completely gone! It was smooth in the center with no spindles left!
i replaced the basket drive hub on my Maytag about a week ago but couldn't get it to calibrate. I turned the cycle switch like you did from side to side and got it to calibrate! Thanks for the video!
Appreciate the video and the tutorial. I'm a DIY guy and and I like to make all my repairs on my appliances. Very good information! Keep up the good work, your video will help me save some $$.
Just bought a used Maytag on Thursday and I knew it wasnt right...So on Sunday morning I put in the model # and "boom!' yours was the first video that came up and you were spot on! I'm taking that stripped part back to the store Mon and let them know they sold me a broken washer...Thank you
Followed this video. Fixed my Maytag MVWC565FW2. Part was $30 with shipping. Came in 2 days. Hardest part is breaking the bolt free in the agitator. I wedged a paint stirrer in the seam around agitator base and basket and hels the basket. Did same thing to put bolt back on after replacing hub.
I just wanted to thank you for this video -- and the "sticking your foot in the tub" trick. That's what I needed to get the agitator bolt out. You're a sanity saver!
I would definitely use a 6-point socket to prevent damage to the bolt deep inside the agitator. Another simple tool to use with a long extension, is a “Hand Impact” that requires a tap with a hammer. It goes onto the extension by size, but uses an internal screw action to loosen or tighten a bolt or motorcycle side case screws in the late 60’s into the 70’s. It has arrows on it but easy to use. As you hold the body, tap sharply with a hammer and this downward force is changed into a twisting force while pushing socket harder onto the nut. It breaks them loose and now that fastener needs anti-seize applied. The large plastic clip is called a “Horse-Shoe” clip because of its shape. I would use a mirror and light to align the “Flats” before installing but use a little Vaseline on both side to aid in installation now and removal later. The hand impact is sold at harbor freight including SnapOn trucks. DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired.
Thanks for the video. I ended up wrapping a ratchet strap around the agitator and hooked it to a cabinet and cinched it tight... Smacked it with a mallet and it released. .
I bought the same item its a tramboline spring puller Amazon got multi packs for about 6 or 7 bucks. Work wonderfully all though You might have to make some all ready wholes bigger or grind down the tips either way they save yur back and a piece of sanity.
Thank you. I'm a 43 year old residential/commercial electrician and keeping the pase has become harder as I age. I have always been fascinated with machines of all types and fashion and it occurred to me that my second act would be possibly a appliance repair man. Do you have any advice or directions for someone like myself who would be interested in pursuing this trade?
My Maytag washer doesn’t have the agitator in the middle, and it recently stopped spinning. Smelt a burnt/electric smell while it was running. Tub wouldn’t spin but drain was working.
Having the same issue except it spins but doesn’t agitate but now it’s to the point where I have to replace that hub about every 3 months. Any idea why? I’ve never calibrated it after though.
U always have to calibrate when you put a new part in so the machine knows you replaced it. Yes that does make a difference and make sure you put it tight and slide that pin back in.
The Bravos Maytag washer has a problem with the Drive hub wearing out. If you have knowledge of Washing machine repair this is the perfect washer for you. If not go out and buy a Speed Queen. I am disgusted with the poor quality of the Maytag. Mine broke for the second time during LOCKDOWN!!
I will second your motion lol. I tell anyone who asks what washer to buy, Get the cheapest one you can find or a speed queen. A little fun fact for ya, Maytag is owned by whirlpool now. If you look the whirlpool and maytag models are pretty much identical, they just have a different name for the most part. When you buy maytag now-a-days you are buying whirlpool. Whirlpool purchased them back in 2006.
@@markanthonypowell The 10 year Warranty is for the "tub" part of the washer...the part that most likely won't ever break. Yeah, I thought the 10 year Warranty was for the entire washing machine as well.
Thank you for the video. I realize that this is a repair . I'm confused why you brushed the gunk away but left all of that grime under that agitator. I mean a little cleaning spray, a damp cloth so the gunk does go back into it. My washer makes my clothes smell sour no matter how much cleaning product I use. Just realized I hear water sloshing underneath tub. I think this is the problem.
So I’ve changed the agitator hub… door lock mechanism… and now ordered the clutch and belt… I hope that is the problem because if not then what else could it be? Mine won’t spin the water out and spin it dryish…. I used to unplug it and wait then plug it back in and sometimes it would do one load correctly. So like I said. I hope it’s just the clutch and belt now. If not… I’ll be back. Cuz I cannot find videos on any other parts
I've changed mine several times now (big family), I've seen that there's a metal hub available instead of the plastic one. I'm wondering if it would be better or would it put too much pressure on the transmission?
My parents purchased Maytag washer. This issue occurred right away. It was replaced and once again my parents are dealing with the same issue. I would understand if they purchased it years ago. It was purchased this year.
Could this be why my kenmore is giving me F7E7 or F7E6 error code? The machine runs but I don’t feel the clothes getting clean and sometimes the water will not spin out completely.
I wish I would have seen this earlier. I think I have the same model washer as in the video (4 year old Maytag Centennial) and it is having the exact same issue. We called a local appliance repairman who came out and performed some sort of "diagnostic" test. He only had a couple of wrenches and cordless drill but a few minutes later, he determined that my washer had a faulty control board ($298.00), a bad splutch, and a bad actuator. All total with labor, I was charged up front $439.04 and he still said that he needed an additional part that I would have to pay $29.50 to get shipped. His nonsense has gone on for a week and a half and my washer was still broken. When I challenged him about the repairs, he said we were "stuck with it." I got so disgusted with his attitude that I cancel his services and filed a dispute with my credit union over the charges that were made to my credit union Visa card. I'm hoping to get the money back because I truly believe we were scammed by this repair company.
Yes you were, when you could get almost a brand new one or a used one at that price and if they ask for money upfront before its done that is a redflag sure maybe $100 but until its fixed nah don't do it. File a complaint with the BBB as well and post it Facebook marketplace and warn people of his shady antics. Disgusting 🤢 that he did that to ya!
Please help. I am at wits end with my Splendide 7100xc. I recently bought a brand new Motorhome RV about 9 months ago for our ranch waiting for the construction of our home. For the pass 9 months the washer and dryer was working flawlessly until last 2 weeks. Keep in mind the RV has not been move or anything has change. The washer will finished the wash cycle, and rinsing cycle spinning at high speed in that cycle. Than add freshwater again in the rinse cycle and at this point is where I am having the problem. The washer will spin for 3 seconds and you can hear the door latch click a few times really fast and the lock red indicator lights goes off and on when the clicking sound starts. The water pump will purge for 5-6 minutes. Then Low Heat, Extra Rinse, Low Spin, green flashing lights flash at the same time, and the lock red indicator flash faster than all three green lights. I called the company trying to get help. First guy was so rude. He did not let me explain what was wrong with the washer. He keeps cutting me off and try to over talk every time I speak and told me the problem is not the washer is my RV. I called back the next day another technician told me I have a error code F-10 and send out new board. This technician was extremely professional compared to the first guy. I installed the new board and still have the same problem. Called back and another technician told me to use a generator to power the washer and ground the generator and ground the washer. He he informed me that I have a F-13 error code. Keep in mind still the same flashing lights. Truthfully I don’t see why this method will fix anything but I went ahead and try it out. After trying what the technician suggested and still having the same problem. Call back again and another technician told me I have a error code if F-11 instructed me to cut the power plug from the washer and install a Edison plug. He informed me that I don’t have ground and the my pump is not getting power. I told the technician how is that possible if the pump is pumping water out of the washer in the wash cycle and rinse cycle. Again the technician told me to cut the washer power cord and installed the Edison plug and that will fix everything. He get calls like this everyday on the same issue. At this point any help would be greatly appreciated.
It looks like this answer is coming too late lol, but I had the same problem, so hopefully this is helpful to anyone else in the future having the same problem... I realized that's what he starts talking about (How to get the "agitator" off) at about 9:33... you can see an example of what he's talking about (but with a different washer) in this video ruclips.net/video/caYlky0ynJs/видео.htmlsi=WyK3Ql-KlhitKruZ
You say: "Basket will spin by itself if you hold agitator" I dont know the terms but are you saying that if you can hold the center vertical piece with one hand and spin the silver part around it that more than likely, that lower part is stripped out?
I have a maytag centennial With filling problem Everything seems to be fine No error codes water valves work fine No clogs on inlet screens Nothing wrong with the pressure hose!!!!! Any tips please???
He doesn’t cover how much of a pain in the ass it is getting the agitator out after getting the bolt out. I found this video that helped my husband get it out after removing the bolt. Hope it helps you. My husband had to spray w-d 40 into the bolt hole and let it sit for like an hour before he used the method in the other video to pull the agitator out. ruclips.net/video/_wUk5oKDJJY/видео.html
7/16 works perfect but put WD40 on it let it soak for a couple hours...worked for me. but when i pulled the agitator , there was another large shaft. the spline thingy was inside the plastic agitator. anyway, pulled motor and tranny and found the clutch was worn down to 3 instead of five points of friction. i could relatively turn it with my fingers. so figure that's my problem.
Good night and hope all is well. I have a Whirlpool washer that sometimes makes a loud rumbling noise on the spin cycle. What part would be causing the rumbling noise and sometimes moves the washer??? Take care and have a pleasant night.
Does it sound like an airplane taking off? If so you may have bad bearings in the tub or transmission. if you have one like this one in this video you need a transmission.
Didn't the real old machines use a spanner wrench to take tose off? Now a days they make these compact so you need 3 hands, lolol. You could use a 3/8 in. Socket wrench with the same extension might give you more stability to break that nut free. Most importantly don't strip the Phillips screws with that impact drill. Thank you for the video.
Lol yeah to get the basket out. They used compression to spin the basket. Now a days it’s a plastic hub. Occasionally you have to use your leg to help you out lol. I recently started using the 20v impact and it’s more of a drip instead of an impact. You only get the impact when you got something stuck good on there. Thanks though ray ray. Good to hear from you!
Cool improvements I will keep in mind. True if you have junk on the screws such as build up of harden soap or water deposits it will make it harder. Thank you and be good and have a safe week.
So what’s the trick on getting the agitator off? I unscrew the bolt but it feels like it’s still connected when I try to pull it off and it only give me about an eighth of an inch of pull and then stops. I can yank on it as hard as I want and still nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciate it I’ve been fighting with this thing for three days now.
It looks like this answer is coming too late lol, but I had the same problem, so hopefully this is helpful to anyone else in the future having the same problem... I realized that's what he starts talking about (How to get the "agitator" off) at about 9:33... you can see an example of what he's talking about (but with a different washer) in this video ruclips.net/video/caYlky0ynJs/видео.htmlsi=WyK3Ql-KlhitKruZ
Someone PLEASE help me. I can get everything out and loose. None of the things that people say are hard to remove are hard to remove. I NEED to get the inner basket out so I can get at the outer basket. I have searched and search and searched I dont know it I am not removing something or it's wedged down. I have tried penetrating oil and nothing loosens it. Thank you
What why is it that ours when we spin the agitator part it doesn’t move like that? It just spins the whole basket. (I checked in diagnostics mode for errors)
I have a problem not sure if it’s the hub/agitator. Mine has just the wash plate. I adjusted the legs and made it more stable. But my issue is it still leaves wet clothes after three final rinse cycles. Any thoughts? Appreciate it.
@richie p 23 yes i hired a repairman to replace it with a special tool to pull it out. I tried to pull it out myself but unable to due to the awkwardness otherwise it's the wash plate worn out on the inside and eventually you'll need to replace it.
Installing a new Splutch Kit for the Maytag Centennial. The plastic piece that snaps in to the metal casing is slotted. All the videos I see just show the Tabs snapping in. Do I need to spin it all the way to the right? Currently it is about halfway and making noise. I'm wondering if I didn't twist it far enough?
Those can pop loose if it’s not locked into place (turned all the way). That is the first place I would look yes. The newer transmissions have it the ways yours is where you have to turn it. It’s a good chance that is your issue yes.
That fixed that issue but I think my initial problem was the tub seal leaking and bearing. Probably trashing a 2017 Maytag Centennial. 2nd Maytag and 2nd transmission problem. Won't be buying another Maytag, Whirpool, or Kenmore. Going with a Speed Queen this time
I have the same machine an have a water leak under the basket. I noticed a damaged plastic ring when I took out the Actuator that is damaged. Do you know what these parts are? Do I need to pull the basket also? I have pictures I can email.
I bet your seal or bearing has gone out. That’s a new transmission on these washers, you can just change the seals unfortunately. Pretty pricey part and a couple hours of work to change one of those.
Part of the existing plastic splutch kit is damaged. I'm going to put a new kit in and see what happens. Do you know if the Transmission is under warranty? It's a 2017 centennial model. 10 year warranty sounds like Motor & Tub.
It looks like this answer is coming too late lol, but I had the same problem, so hopefully this is helpful to anyone else in the future having the same problem... I realized that's what he starts talking about (How to get the "agitator" off) at about 9:33... you can see an example of what he's talking about (but with a different washer) in this video ruclips.net/video/caYlky0ynJs/видео.htmlsi=WyK3Ql-KlhitKruZ
I have a Maytag Centennial that has same issue. It's been going on and off for years. I found 2 other videos with more detailed information. The links are below. First one shows how to open the front of the control panel to access the sensors. Second vid shows how to possibly fix the problem. I say possibly because I've not replaced the water leveling sensor yet. Too late to go to appliance store. I'll update once I replace the sensor. Hope this helps. ruclips.net/video/yXKt8bNO7W4/видео.html ruclips.net/video/_vNNzDwW9_8/видео.html
Here you go my man. W10528947. The link that goes to Amazon had it there. I see it in not available from there. Just google it and hope there is one available!
If you can't get the washer basket drive hub to sit flush, but pretty close, try screwing in the screws to snug it down that last bit
I was hitting mine with a rubber mallet and it still wouldn't sit flush. I cracked the first one I tried installing! And I spent a long time cleaning the shaft with some wire brushes as well but it still wouldn't sit flush.
After ordering a second one it still wouldn't sit flush. But a light bulb went off and I thought "let me try snugging it down by using the screws!" And it worked!!
Hopefully this saves someone A LOT of frustration and the cost of ordering a second one!
Rest of the video was excellent. And the spindles on my old washer basket drive hub were completely gone! It was smooth in the center with no spindles left!
i replaced the basket drive hub on my Maytag about a week ago but couldn't get it to calibrate. I turned the cycle switch like you did from side to side and got it to calibrate! Thanks for the video!
Appreciate the video and the tutorial. I'm a DIY guy and and I like to make all my repairs on my appliances. Very good information! Keep up the good work, your video will help me save some $$.
Just bought a used Maytag on Thursday and I knew it wasnt right...So on Sunday morning I put in the model # and "boom!' yours was the first video that came up and you were spot on! I'm taking that stripped part back to the store Mon and let them know they sold me a broken washer...Thank you
Working on your own appliance would void most any used warranty. Playing a dangerous game there.
Retainer clip.
Saved my washer. Thanks. Foot in the basket was the key to breaking that bolt loose. They don't put that trick in the manual. Thanks!
Thanks for the great video. Replaced the hub in a bout a half hour and working great.
Followed this video. Fixed my Maytag MVWC565FW2. Part was $30 with shipping. Came in 2 days. Hardest part is breaking the bolt free in the agitator. I wedged a paint stirrer in the seam around agitator base and basket and hels the basket. Did same thing to put bolt back on after replacing hub.
I just wanted to thank you for this video -- and the "sticking your foot in the tub" trick. That's what I needed to get the agitator bolt out. You're a sanity saver!
Thank you for your time making this video! I was able to repair our washing machine in less than an hour for $22!!
Where did you buy the part out of curiosity?
@@izzysmom02 Amazon. Seller: SOLEMART
I would definitely use a 6-point socket to prevent damage to the bolt deep inside the agitator. Another simple tool to use with a long extension, is a “Hand Impact” that requires a tap with a hammer. It goes onto the extension by size, but uses an internal screw action to loosen or tighten a bolt or motorcycle side case screws in the late 60’s into the 70’s. It has arrows on it but easy to use. As you hold the body, tap sharply with a hammer and this downward force is changed into a twisting force while pushing socket harder onto the nut. It breaks them loose and now that fastener needs anti-seize applied. The large plastic clip is called a “Horse-Shoe” clip because of its shape. I would use a mirror and light to align the “Flats” before installing but use a little Vaseline on both side to aid in installation now and removal later.
The hand impact is sold at harbor freight including SnapOn trucks.
DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired.
thank you for making these kind of video during hard time you saved me a lot of money I don't have
Thanks for the video. I ended up wrapping a ratchet strap around the agitator and hooked it to a cabinet and cinched it tight... Smacked it with a mallet and it released. .
Perfect! Easy simple instruction. No issues. Thank you!
I bought the same item its a tramboline spring puller Amazon got multi packs for about 6 or 7 bucks. Work wonderfully all though
You might have to make some all ready wholes bigger or grind down the tips either way they save yur back and a piece of sanity.
Oh yeah my friend that plastic U is call a hub clip. Have a great day!
Thank you.
I'm a 43 year old residential/commercial electrician and keeping the pase has become harder as I age. I have always been fascinated with machines of all types and fashion and it occurred to me that my second act would be possibly a appliance repair man. Do you have any advice or directions for someone like myself who would be interested in pursuing this trade?
This video was exactly what I needed I found the part and I just ordered a new hub
Thank You for this video you save me a service call. That would have probably been $250/$300. This was exactly my problem..... Thanks........
Jus got a dryer on Facebook and my clothes were coming out soaked ima give this a try great video!
My Maytag washer doesn’t have the agitator in the middle, and it recently stopped spinning. Smelt a burnt/electric smell while it was running. Tub wouldn’t spin but drain was working.
Sound like you need a new belt !
I need help finding the model number or what part to buy!
Thanks for the Video. I was able to fix my Washer for $9.47
Good day,
I was wondering where you purchased your hub part from?
I did not see the part info in the description
Thanks
So that 10 year warranty and commercial quality is bullshit.
Yes. That was the old stuff. Now junk
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Very precice and straight forward.
Having the same issue except it spins but doesn’t agitate but now it’s to the point where I have to replace that hub about every 3 months. Any idea why? I’ve never calibrated it after though.
U always have to calibrate when you put a new part in so the machine knows you replaced it. Yes that does make a difference and make sure you put it tight and slide that pin back in.
The pin name is Horseshoe Clip. Thanks for the Video. We are taking it apart only to find the model plate info is missing. Any suggestions?
The Bravos Maytag washer has a problem with the Drive hub wearing out. If you have knowledge of Washing machine repair this is the perfect washer for you. If not go out and buy a Speed Queen. I am disgusted with the poor quality of the Maytag. Mine broke for the second time during LOCKDOWN!!
I will second your motion lol. I tell anyone who asks what washer to buy, Get the cheapest one you can find or a speed queen.
A little fun fact for ya, Maytag is owned by whirlpool now. If you look the whirlpool and maytag models are pretty much identical, they just have a different name for the most part. When you buy maytag now-a-days you are buying whirlpool. Whirlpool purchased them back in 2006.
A very good explanation,thanks.
If the washer comes with a 10 year warranty, is this covered?
And then to add to the question. I have a two piece agitator, I remove the column, but the base is there, with no pins or screws.
@@markanthonypowell The 10 year Warranty is for the "tub" part of the washer...the part that most likely won't ever break. Yeah, I thought the 10 year Warranty was for the entire washing machine as well.
Awesome Thank You. I’ll buy the part tomorrow and get it on.
Thank you for the video. I realize that this is a repair . I'm confused why you brushed the gunk away but left all of that grime under that agitator. I mean a little cleaning spray, a damp cloth so the gunk does go back into it. My washer makes my clothes smell sour no matter how much cleaning product I use. Just realized I hear water sloshing underneath tub. I think this is the problem.
Mine want bad in less then a year of having it. Thanks so much my wife been on my back about this.
Thank you, for showing this, you have a nice an funny presentation thank you. I have the same problem and i will try your way
Really wish I would’ve seen this before I started taking mine apart to check the electrical
What if the teeth on the shaft are shot as well. Do you hav a video on replacing the shaft?
Have you ever dropped a screw when doing this ? Naturally mine fell in whole in bottom of drum , any ideas
So I’ve changed the agitator hub… door lock mechanism… and now ordered the clutch and belt… I hope that is the problem because if not then what else could it be?
Mine won’t spin the water out and spin it dryish…. I used to unplug it and wait then plug it back in and sometimes it would do one load correctly.
So like I said. I hope it’s just the clutch and belt now. If not… I’ll be back. Cuz I cannot find videos on any other parts
Thank you I just fixed my washer blesses 🙏🙏
I've changed mine several times now (big family), I've seen that there's a metal hub available instead of the plastic one. I'm wondering if it would be better or would it put too much pressure on the transmission?
Fine job, thanks for sharing your knowledge
I found an impact driver with extension works better at removing that center bolt.
Did you do a diagnostic before you did this repair? If so, did it show any error codes? Thank you.
Thank you, i would like to know the but size you have used to take off the screw. Please
My parents purchased Maytag washer. This issue occurred right away. It was replaced and once again my parents are dealing with the same issue. I would understand if they purchased it years ago. It was purchased this year.
Do u think that problem it's also causing my washer cylinder to shake when it's spinning????
Could this be why my kenmore is giving me F7E7 or F7E6 error code? The machine runs but I don’t feel the clothes getting clean and sometimes the water will not spin out completely.
Thank you so much! Got mine fixed today!
So where do you find the part number? Ty
I wish I would have seen this earlier. I think I have the same model washer as in the video (4 year old Maytag Centennial) and it is having the exact same issue. We called a local appliance repairman who came out and performed some sort of "diagnostic" test. He only had a couple of wrenches and cordless drill but a few minutes later, he determined that my washer had a faulty control board ($298.00), a bad splutch, and a bad actuator. All total with labor, I was charged up front $439.04 and he still said that he needed an additional part that I would have to pay $29.50 to get shipped. His nonsense has gone on for a week and a half and my washer was still broken. When I challenged him about the repairs, he said we were "stuck with it." I got so disgusted with his attitude that I cancel his services and filed a dispute with my credit union over the charges that were made to my credit union Visa card. I'm hoping to get the money back because I truly believe we were scammed by this repair company.
Yes you were, when you could get almost a brand new one or a used one at that price and if they ask for money upfront before its done that is a redflag sure maybe $100 but until its fixed nah don't do it. File a complaint with the BBB as well and post it Facebook marketplace and warn people of his shady antics. Disgusting 🤢 that he did that to ya!
Please help. I am at wits end with my Splendide 7100xc. I recently bought a brand new Motorhome RV about 9 months ago for our ranch waiting for the construction of our home. For the pass 9 months the washer and dryer was working flawlessly until last 2 weeks. Keep in mind the RV has not been move or anything has change. The washer will finished the wash cycle, and rinsing cycle spinning at high speed in that cycle. Than add freshwater again in the rinse cycle and at this point is where I am having the problem. The washer will spin for 3 seconds and you can hear the door latch click a few times really fast and the lock red indicator lights goes off and on when the clicking sound starts. The water pump will purge for 5-6 minutes. Then Low Heat, Extra Rinse, Low Spin, green flashing lights flash at the same time, and the lock red indicator flash faster than all three green lights. I called the company trying to get help. First guy was so rude. He did not let me explain what was wrong with the washer. He keeps cutting me off and try to over talk every time I speak and told me the problem is not the washer is my RV. I called back the next day another technician told me I have a error code F-10 and send out new board. This technician was extremely professional compared to the first guy. I installed the new board and still have the same problem. Called back and another technician told me to use a generator to power the washer and ground the generator and ground the washer. He he informed me that I have a F-13 error code. Keep in mind still the same flashing lights. Truthfully I don’t see why this method will fix anything but I went ahead and try it out. After trying what the technician suggested and still having the same problem. Call back again and another technician told me I have a error code if F-11 instructed me to cut the power plug from the washer and install a Edison plug. He informed me that I don’t have ground and the my pump is not getting power. I told the technician how is that possible if the pump is pumping water out of the washer in the wash cycle and rinse cycle. Again the technician told me to cut the washer power cord and installed the Edison plug and that will fix everything. He get calls like this everyday on the same issue. At this point any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks bro life saver
So my bit wasn't magnetized so as you could guess, one of the screws fell down into one of the holes. Now what? Is it OK to run the machine?
How did you pop the cover so easily once you released the bolt I pull on mine and it just dosent budge
Mine too
Slide a strap or strong string under the agitator and pull up.
It looks like this answer is coming too late lol, but I had the same problem, so hopefully this is helpful to anyone else in the future having the same problem... I realized that's what he starts talking about (How to get the "agitator" off) at about 9:33... you can see an example of what he's talking about (but with a different washer) in this video ruclips.net/video/caYlky0ynJs/видео.htmlsi=WyK3Ql-KlhitKruZ
Should I still buy the linked Whirlpool part if I have a Maytag? Or search for the same from Maytag?
You say: "Basket will spin by itself if you hold agitator"
I dont know the terms but are you saying that if you can hold the center vertical piece with one hand and spin the silver part around it that more than likely, that lower part is stripped out?
I have a maytag centennial
With filling problem
Everything seems to be fine
No error codes water valves work fine
No clogs on inlet screens
Nothing wrong with the pressure hose!!!!!
Any tips please???
How does center come out after u take off bolt
He doesn’t cover how much of a pain in the ass it is getting the agitator out after getting the bolt out. I found this video that helped my husband get it out after removing the bolt. Hope it helps you. My husband had to spray w-d 40 into the bolt hole and let it sit for like an hour before he used the method in the other video to pull the agitator out. ruclips.net/video/_wUk5oKDJJY/видео.html
Are hubs designed to be clutch replacements or do these washers still have the clutch assembly too?
Awsome video, man 👏 👏
7/16 works perfect but put WD40 on it let it soak for a couple hours...worked for me. but when i pulled the agitator , there was another large shaft. the spline thingy was inside the plastic agitator. anyway, pulled motor and tranny and found the clutch was worn down to 3 instead of five points of friction. i could relatively turn it with my fingers. so figure that's my problem.
Very helpful video, a big thank you! 😁👍
Good night and hope all is well. I have a Whirlpool washer that sometimes makes a loud rumbling noise on the spin cycle. What part would be causing the rumbling noise and sometimes moves the washer??? Take care and have a pleasant night.
Does it sound like an airplane taking off? If so you may have bad bearings in the tub or transmission. if you have one like this one in this video you need a transmission.
I am a little confused. I thought the tub spun independent of the agitator in Spin cycle.
Didn't the real old machines use a spanner wrench to take tose off? Now a days they make these compact so you need 3 hands, lolol. You could use a 3/8 in. Socket wrench with the same extension might give you more stability to break that nut free. Most importantly don't strip the Phillips screws with that impact drill. Thank you for the video.
Lol yeah to get the basket out. They used compression to spin the basket. Now a days it’s a plastic hub. Occasionally you have to use your leg to help you out lol. I recently started using the 20v impact and it’s more of a drip instead of an impact. You only get the impact when you got something stuck good on there. Thanks though ray ray. Good to hear from you!
Cool improvements I will keep in mind. True if you have junk on the screws such as build up of harden soap or water deposits it will make it harder. Thank you and be good and have a safe week.
What model was this?
Will this part fit the maytag you did the grinding noise video without agitator?
does this apply to the same style washer without an agitator?
So what’s the trick on getting the agitator off? I unscrew the bolt but it feels like it’s still connected when I try to pull it off and it only give me about an eighth of an inch of pull and then stops. I can yank on it as hard as I want and still nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciate it I’ve been fighting with this thing for three days now.
Mine is doing the same bolt is out and I still can’t pull it out. Please help?
Pull harder Nancy 😅
Same problem here.
It looks like this answer is coming too late lol, but I had the same problem, so hopefully this is helpful to anyone else in the future having the same problem... I realized that's what he starts talking about (How to get the "agitator" off) at about 9:33... you can see an example of what he's talking about (but with a different washer) in this video ruclips.net/video/caYlky0ynJs/видео.htmlsi=WyK3Ql-KlhitKruZ
Someone PLEASE help me. I can get everything out and loose. None of the things that people say are hard to remove are hard to remove. I NEED to get the inner basket out so I can get at the outer basket. I have searched and search and searched I dont know it I am not removing something or it's wedged down. I have tried penetrating oil and nothing loosens it. Thank you
I have a Maytag , why does it add water when I select drain and spin?
My Maytag is well over 20 years old so could this be the same part on it...it will not spin the water out....
Great video but please buy a light with your ad revenue check.
What would you say if when I calibrate my washer it just keeps spinning for a long time. Like over 5 minutes.
Figure it out?
@@scotts1589 thanks for trying to help buddy but I retired the old washer. Made the empty drum into a fire pit.
What why is it that ours when we spin the agitator part it doesn’t move like that? It just spins the whole basket. (I checked in diagnostics mode for errors)
What's the round white plastic part name?
I have a problem not sure if it’s the hub/agitator. Mine has just the wash plate. I adjusted the legs and made it more stable. But my issue is it still leaves wet clothes after three final rinse cycles. Any thoughts? Appreciate it.
@richie p 23 yes i hired a repairman to replace it with a special tool to pull it out. I tried to pull it out myself but unable to due to the awkwardness otherwise it's the wash plate worn out on the inside and eventually you'll need to replace it.
I dropped a screw while removing hub how can I get it out? Please help!!
Was the belt spinning?
Retaining clip is what the clip is called for the hub
What's the plastic circle part called?
Installing a new Splutch Kit for the Maytag Centennial. The plastic piece that snaps in to the metal casing is slotted. All the videos I see just show the Tabs snapping in. Do I need to spin it all the way to the right? Currently it is about halfway and making noise. I'm wondering if I didn't twist it far enough?
Those can pop loose if it’s not locked into place (turned all the way). That is the first place I would look yes. The newer transmissions have it the ways yours is where you have to turn it.
It’s a good chance that is your issue yes.
Thank you very much. I'll try spinning it all the way when I get home.
That fixed that issue but I think my initial problem was the tub seal leaking and bearing. Probably trashing a 2017 Maytag Centennial. 2nd Maytag and 2nd transmission problem. Won't be buying another Maytag, Whirpool, or Kenmore. Going with a Speed Queen this time
Location of fuse on early model Maytag washers
Thank you for this video
I can’t get the middle thing up. It’s stuck. Anyone have that issue and how did you get it out to get to the hub
Thanks for putting this on.
E1F5 error. Door won’t lock to start. Can ya help me
I have the same machine an have a water leak under the basket. I noticed a damaged plastic ring when I took out the Actuator that is damaged. Do you know what these parts are? Do I need to pull the basket also? I have pictures I can email.
I think its the pulley clutch kit. Can it be repaired from the bottom? I have a slight water leak.
I bet your seal or bearing has gone out. That’s a new transmission on these washers, you can just change the seals unfortunately. Pretty pricey part and a couple hours of work to change one of those.
Part of the existing plastic splutch kit is damaged. I'm going to put a new kit in and see what happens. Do you know if the Transmission is under warranty? It's a 2017 centennial model. 10 year warranty sounds like Motor & Tub.
Should have done the metal hub
What if the washer plate still isn't spinning freely
Ok the problem we are having is that we got the bolt out but the agitator is stuck how do we get it out?
It looks like this answer is coming too late lol, but I had the same problem, so hopefully this is helpful to anyone else in the future having the same problem... I realized that's what he starts talking about (How to get the "agitator" off) at about 9:33... you can see an example of what he's talking about (but with a different washer) in this video ruclips.net/video/caYlky0ynJs/видео.htmlsi=WyK3Ql-KlhitKruZ
Thanks was very helpful
what if i don’t get all lights to turn on whne calibrating?
That cotter pin is more of a "circlip"
I believe tbey make a metal hub now cause this is a constant issue
Bro I have that problem...what's the part #...???
I replaced the hub and actuator and still won’t spin out.?.Help please
My Maytag Centennial leaves my clothes wet how can I fix it?
Thank you
I have a Maytag Centennial that has same issue. It's been going on and off for years. I found 2 other videos with more detailed information. The links are below. First one shows how to open the front of the control panel to access the sensors. Second vid shows how to possibly fix the problem. I say possibly because I've not replaced the water leveling sensor yet. Too late to go to appliance store. I'll update once I replace the sensor. Hope this helps.
ruclips.net/video/yXKt8bNO7W4/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/_vNNzDwW9_8/видео.html
Looking for the part number in comments and can’t seem to find it. Anyone help me out?
Here you go my man. W10528947. The link that goes to Amazon had it there. I see it in not available from there. Just google it and hope there is one available!
I’d call it a shaft clip.
C clip good video
Thanks!
Welcome!
Need to know where fus
Thanks