Bosch VE pump teardown - part 3 - fuel plunger and distribution block
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- Part 3 of the series. Covers the basic operation of the plunger that pressurizes the fuel, and distributes it to each fuel line.
There will be a part 3.5 video where I pull the plunger out to show the ports, and explain the fuel flow path better.
I just went through a pump of mine that was leaking and had 1 broken governor spring. Now I have no fuel pressure coming out of it so your vid gives me a great place to start looking!
Brady, what an awesome explanation of what the internal components of this Bosh VE pump is doing and how it delivers fuel! Excellent presentation and thanks for your time!
Brilliant video. Only series of videos that has clued me in on what does what and what those mods do. Voted x3
Best explanation I've seen 👍
Fantastic explanation!
The best lesson ever. Thanks
Great video! I have an engine with this pump that immediately goes to full throttle on start up and stays there. The throttle cable and arm are moving fine so I'm guessing it could be the governor or something that's stuck.
What a great series on this pump, the best on RUclips, thank you so much! I want to add LPG into the intake (LPG in europe is simply cheap automotive propane/butane gas) to reduce emissions, save some money, and improve running on veg oil instead of diesel when the time comes. your video really helped me figure this out, thank you :) The only advice i can give in return is that wax actuators like the one in the timing advance are extremely powerful (torquey) and slow, so i would bet that while your demonstration pump is a sticky binary left/right (retard/advance) i'd bet as that wax slowly heats up the timing control is continuous and not simply on/off. The ECU probably sends PWM signals to it constantly, i'll have a look this weekend. many thanks for all your hard work filming this!
@1:44 can we buy a plunger separately? What happens if there are scratches to the shaft of that plunger?
The ring that controls the amount of pressure. Bosch calls it a Control Sleeve or Metering Sleeve.
I call it a Throttle Sleeve.
Thank you so much for explanation,Jesus bless you
exactly
Which seal causes the pump to lose prime? Great video!
Thank you
My pump is not lifting fuel to start up, what part in the pump lifts fuel? After I prime the system it will run once I let it sit I have to keep priming to start it. I checked all lines no cracks
Do you have any videos explaining dynamic timing control?
Thanks for the videos, seeing it without having to order all the gaskets and seals is a huge help.
You said the spring inside was 3,500 RPM? Is there a list of different springs? My service manual says it should free-rev to 5,100 but I can only get 3,200 with the max accelerator screw all the way backed off. (New to me, TD27 turbo)
Please tell me,Which of these components is the fuel feed pump? Send me a picture
I have a bosch ve pump with electric quantity control, is there any way i can change it to the mechanical.
Car in question is mercedes 312d, the pump is not dilivering enough pressure to open injector and i thinknits because the relive part of the plunger, because the electics is not closing it.
So any idea will help
I tested two identical Toyoya 1HZ VE Pumps today. One new and one that had AdBlue put through while driving by mistake and vehcle stopped. Manually turning the pumps with a socket off the vehcle, one spurts out little bits of fuel from the head valves and the other one doesn't pump anything. Think i will buy a new head and rotor. But why is it that AdBlue wrecks the pump isn't it just water or urea. The pump was completely dissmantled and cleaned spotless, there appears to be nothing wrong or broken in the pump. Can see some videos on my channel as well i have put some your helpful vids in a collective playlist. Thanks.
At a guess I'd say its because urea and water don't make a great fuel, and that's supposed to be injected after combustion not before 😅 he also says in this video that some pumps use engine oil for lubrication, others like this (and possibly yours) use diesel fuel as lubricant. If you put water in there, its probably not going to lubricate everything correctly. Anyway tldr I'm sorry for your loss.
@@cannaroe1213 I’ve since found out water under very high pressure through the pump rotor acts like sand paper therefore score the rotor barrel and loss of compression eventually stops diesel from being able to be pumped through.
@@ForPropertyInvestors Very interesting, thanks for letting me (and everyone else) know, all the best!
Great videos! My pump is leaking between the pump assembly and the pump body. Is that pump assembly captured so that it doesn’t fly apart when you separate the two bodies to change that o ring? Thanks!
I have the exact same problem and question now. Did you ever figure it out?
Can you convert a 300tdi edc injector pump to a mechanical pump
Is their a bigger after market fuel cam plate
Would the cut-off solenoid fail without the pump failing, or would a failing solenoid take out the pump?
The solenoid itself is not very likely to fail, and if it did then it would default to "not running" since the solenoid lifts the plunger up to allow fuel flow. But the rubber tipped plunger definitely could age and break, if maybe the newer diesel fuel ages the rubber, and a piece breaks off. But if that happens, im guessing it would end up restricting fuel flow, since the chunks of rubber are going to end up in bad places. More likely, you have a similar failure as mine, where some metal or dirt got into the pump, and is making the plunger not move up and down. Its not easy, but you could clean the area, and remove the solenoid and test it by keying on and off, to see if it pulls the plunger up inside the solenoid.
Why will my 12 valve not run correctly till it warms up?
I have 3 used n/a ve bosch pumps that have almost zero throttle resonse and chugs lots of grey smoke, i think the internals are stuck from old fuel and sitting on a shelf for years,is there any way to clean out the gunk and free up the pump without total rebuild?
You could try removing just the pump top and inspecting the inside. If there is junk inside the pump you could try cleaning the obvious places, or if its on a bench you could clean it out with gasoline and then rinse that out with diesel. Grayish smoke is usually due to poor fuel timing, low pressure, or bad injectors. To be honest though, if you've run it for more than an hour and the diesel running through it hasn't cleaned up the smoke, I'd guess its bad injectors or timing. These pop-style injectors have springs in them that become unbalanced as they age. And timing the pump is a little tricky too
I thought I can fix my jeep's pump, but After watching this I have no courage to open this thing and mess up , this thing is soo compilcated than entire car itself.
I did it, with this video, and it's no so hard, but you have to make sure your pump is looking down or the pieces fall and is a nightmare. Anyway I just changed a few leaky seals, I'm not so sure about messing with the rest of it
A lot of people say this pump should only be adjusted in a running engine, since there are simply too many variables at play simultaneously, which is why you get the secondary manual fuel cut off directly on the pump.
How to bought drive shaft
Sir why the rpm drop my tractor
Thank you
hi whats the best way to bleed the air out of this pump