Bosch VE pump teardown - part 1 - pump top and fuel control
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2019
- Part 1: explaining the pump top section, and fueling controls.
I had watched other videos online, and looked at the engineering diagrams, but never fully understood how these things work. After this particular pump self destructed, I decided to tear it down since it is garbage now. I'm sure there are people that know more than me about these pumps, but hopefully this is useful for some people who want to understand what certain pump modifications are actually doing!
Great video, very clean and informative, thank you!
Thank you good Sir. I learned so much from your videos on this pump.
Thank you for the video. Very informative.
great video explaning the inner workings. thankyou!!!!
this series is awesome!!
I couldn't work out the lever on the top until I watched this. someone said it was the cold start adjustment when there is no wax heater. but when you said it was the manual shutoff I wondered because when I tried to use it on my b3.3, it didnt stop the engine. so still a bit confused
In some of our defenses, we may live in certain countries where people drive like mentally challenged child clowns and we want enough power to pass them quickly, and with a safe margin of distance throughout this avoidance (often life saving) process. GREAT VIDEO...thank you very much!
Awesome. Video thank u much been tryna understand compensator but like u said vids on utube are just showing turn it here turn it there done
My pump is turned a little bit hot and I worry that if something ever goes bad in the pump that it will run away. Before the pump I have a little ball valve between the VE and the lift pump. It also doubles as an anti theft device. No fuel to the pump= no start
Hi, great videos I'm learning a lot. I have a ZEXEL VE pump but need it to operate in the opposite direction. Whats parts do I need to change to achieve this? Thanks
Hi Brady, I've got a VE pump on my T3 Vanagon and its leaking from the round pump head seal. Does the pump and pump head contain it self (sans the two small springs) if I remove the head while the pump is in car, or do you recon I'd better get the whole pump out?
Hi @Brady Mashak, let me ask you a question. I have a ZEXEL VE pump, very similar to the one in the video, but with 4 injection outlets. The vehicle (Mazda 2.0) was stopped for a year. I changed the fuel and put it into service after this time and it starts with an excessive number of RPM, almost at the maximum. Could you help me, what could it be? Thanks!
bosch v pump msi-settings video you have
Hello Brady - Mike from SW Western Australia I have a VE fuel injector pump on our 100HP turbo diesel in our yacht. Was delighted to review your 3 videos as I've had a recurring problem that has had the pump off twice.
When the engine gets hot and I bring the RPM down towards ~1200 all is good. When I drop the RPM to idle, I'm not able to get the revs up over 1000 RPM no matter what throttle position I put to it. I have to wait till the engine cools to recover throttle response. The problem gets progressively worse over months of use to the point where I cannot get the revs up over 1000, hot or cold. Had the pump serviced; it was good for maybe 50 hours and now it's happening again. Anything come to mind that might be of help? Could that spring you show under the top section of the pump be the problem?
After two attempts to have the fuel injector specialists fix it, I'm going to have a shot at fixing it myself. Thank you.
Great video!
I'm having trouble reinstalling the eccentric control pin. It seems that the pin it rubs against is spring loaded and just pops out again when i try to push it in with a screwdriver like in the video.
Any suggestions?
Hey Magnus, sorry for a delayed response. With the engine off, there shouldn't be springs pushing that pin in. Is it possible that there was still some fuel pressure when you were trying to re-install it? That would try pushing the pin inwards like that. I don't think it will help, but maybe worth a shot, you could try moving the throttle arm and see if that helps. That would interact with the pivoting components that could be pushing the pin in, but i'm not sure it will help you.
Question for you, my truck wouldn’t shut off so I unplugged the fss, still didn’t kill it so I tried using the manual lever and that didn’t kill it either. I ended up using a 2x8 over the turbo any ideas where I should look?
If its not shutting off with the 12v fuel shutoff solenoid, that may mean bad news for the internals of your pump. The manual fuel shutoff lever does sometimes require a little force, so you could try rotating it a little harder?
On this video's pump, the fuel shutoff solenoid was sticking in run, because of metal shrapnel in the pump
How would I adjust to get rid of extreme white smoke unused fuel while cold
adolfo I think the white smoke on start-up is oil burning, usually because the oil has leaked past the rings (or a ring) while the engine is sitting. Unburnt fuel should produce black smoke?
Do you still have this pump???
The pump is currently at a friends house, so I would still have access to it yes. What would you need?
Why is mine leaking at the top
broken/perished seals.
Hey man are you still using this account? I’ve got a leak from my boost compensator breather so id like to ask a few questions. Fuel pin seal? Is it doable myself?
When you say boost compensator breather, you mean one of the lines attached to the top very top of the pump, where the diaphragm and fuel pin is?
I assume you mean it's leaking fuel, not just a boost leak. If that's the case, it might be a torn diaphragm on the fuel delivery pin. It's pretty easy to pull the top of that off, just the 4 screws (but they're really tight, get a good fitting tool so you don't strip them). From there you should be able to see whether or not that big round rubber diaphragm is damaged or not
@@bradymashak231 yes a fuel leak sorry :)…. but from my understanding fuel shouldn’t be that high, I’m thinking fuel pin seal. The diaphragm should be just dealing with boost pressure no?
And the breather is just above the fuel return on my pump, not the very top
The fuel pin doesn't really seal. So that like 2.5" diaphragm is what actually keeps the fuel from getting up into that very top portion of the pump. Can you email me a picture of the vent like you're talking about though? Still not sure I understand which one you're talking about.
Bjmashak@mtu.edu
@@bradymashak231 sent
You still active on this account? I have a question
Sure, no promises but I might be able to help. What are you seeing?
@@bradymashak231 you mentioned the max fuel screw at 11:40, do have any idea on how difficult it would be to get it out and replaced with a new one? I have a guy sending me a replacement screw in the mail. I basically tightened the locknut too tight and the screw and locknut itself snapped off (they were both extremely rusty) and the rest of the screw is still inside the injection pump, i still have everything after the locknut. multiple people said I may either have to drill it out w/ a an easy out kit or take a rod of the same size thread pitch with JB Weld on the end of it and try and pull it out or work it out. the problem is it's still threaded in and not loose at all. ive had multiple people recommend drilling it out but one person said it may be a risk because you could mess up the threads in the pump which would result in buying a brand new pump or having it rebuilt which I dont have the money for. any recommendation on what I should do to get it out? I've posted in a few forums with multiples responses only getting those two options. any response is appreciated
@@DixieWrekt04 ouch, yeah thats a bummer of a situation. If youre willing to remove the pump top, I'm pretty confident you would be able to unscrew that fuel limiting bolt yes. As long as the remaining threads in the pump top arent too rusty, you could probably grab the unthreaded portion inside the pump top with plyers and turn it to remove it. If you do that, I would take a measurement of how far in it is, so you can start from the same point when you put the new part in.
@@bradymashak231 wouldn't a seal kit be needed when bolting the top of the pump back on
@@DixieWrekt04 definitely should replace the seal yes. But towards the end when my pump was dying, i pulled the top off twice and it didnt leak without replacing the seal. Also, i wouldnt want to go near the pump with a drill bit, because one metal shaving in there, and you might and up with a pile of scrap metal.