Great vid Levi! I just had my pump rebuilt by a "reputable" Bosch sevice center and I am pretty darn sure they put it together 180' out of phase and did not line up the slots and keyways so now I get to fix it. My question is what do you know of the fittings from the pump to injector? I am trying to set up an injector testor and need the tube, flares and nuts. Messics wants $225 for a set..woof! on my tractor, the nut size (wrench that fits) on the pump is 15mm and the nozzle holder (france kbel 83 s 35) is 17mm. If I knew what thread type and size, I might be able to find and ready made tube or adapter so I can connect my pressure source to the nozzle holder. Currently, my pressure source will connect to the 15mm nut but I have nothing for the injector holder end.
@@DieselPerformanceEngineering sorry to bother you. I just rotated my pump shaft, setting the keyway to the case timing mark and noticed the shaft moves in/out about .020 when it starts to come up a cam. Is that normal or did I forget a part? (yes, the little disk is in there!)
Nice detailed video mate!, I'm wondering if its possible to remove just the head (the black thing on the end) with the pump still on the engine and replace just the leaking o ring? I don't really want to do a complete tear down of my pump if I can avoid it.
You can, I've heard of people doing it. The correct way to take it apart and put it back together is in the vertical position according to Bosch to keep your springs, rods, etc from getting misaligned.
Thanks for the video! Got a quick question for you: Been driving a vehicle that doesn't have one of these, but a LUCAS one. The thing's acting up, with sudden bursts of power, especially on steep hills or when under load. Also, there seems to be air in the fuel lines. What are your thoughts? Could this be a sign of pump failure? Although it starts nice, doesn't smoke.
@@abdulissa4961 if you are getting air in the system I would check to see if the fuel system has quick connect plastic lines. They can crack or the orings go bad and the injection pump can suck air in through there
@@DieselPerformanceEngineering Thank you, sir! It does have quick connect lines, yes. I was told air intrusion can advance the timing. I don't know the mechanics of how that works. But is that a thing?
Message me or call the shop with the pump number and I can get you a Bosch line. The number will be something like 0460426397 and stamped on the aluminum housing. Shop number is 8163246680
I have a Bosch VE pump on a little VW 1.6 that's causing me some grief. I have 2 cylinders, 1 and 4, that aren't getting enough or no fuel at idle. Could this be an issue with delivery valves or something more internal? If I crack those 2 lines at the injectors while the engine is running, it doesn't change the idle at all. If I crack the other 2, the engine stumbles, as it should
Transfer pumps go in opposite directions, advance is on the other side, main body housings are different. Head and rotors are possibly ported different as well.
Some people have done that by sliding the head out just far enough to get the oring off and the new one on, but you run the risk of some internal pieces falling out of place when you do that.
Nice video. I have done a rebuild by my own pump. But now it runs hi rpm. An have no respons on the gas. Do you have you any idea what the problem can bee? Im not sure the covener shaft / fly weeli s in the same spot. Can that bee the problem? Hope you can give me some tips?
That can affect your advance on certain pumps but not your governor as far as I know. I would make sure everything in your governor looks right and then I'd make sure your fuel screw is in the same place. Fulcrum lever would be my next suspicion
Thanx for the quick response. I'm gone give the pump a new look. Maybe i do something wrong. What do you mean with the advange ? And the fulcrum levler is that the thing were the cable is fixt? Im from Holland and try to understand.
Awesome video dude! I got some bad fuel and it rusted out my fuel filter sending all that rust through my pump. What wear part would cause a no start once hot? as soon as you cool the pump off with water it starts right up. I have the pump apart, everything looks great, I was thinking a worn cam plate but it looks okay, I haven't measured though
@@Mr.Harescramble typically a hard start when hot is a bad head and rotor they can look totally fine and still fail. If you get me a pump number I can look up pricing and availability for you
HI , just wondering if you've ever had a Case International 1455xl tractor, Case/Bosch diesel pump (Case Part No 3218937R91)dismantled, im working on this tractor and its broken two Delivery Valves off flush with the Head on the pump, is there any way of removing the broken pieces that are still in the Head without completely taking the pump apart, thanks Willie.
@@WilliamBenn-t7t yes, worked on plenty of those pumps. Your problem is very odd. Typically the line will break before the delivery valve holder. I'd try some sort of easy out or expansion tool to get out the threads stuck in the head.
Thanks for the reply, The problem i'm struggling with is there's still part of the non return valve still inside the broken delivery valve, I've phoned a couple of pump specialists who either can't cross reference the Case Part No's , or their quoting £500.00 to £600.00 to fully refurbish the pump , I had the tractor started by clamping a piece of rubber hose around the cracks, thinking they would screw out easily i tried to take them out which ended up where I am now, Thanks again Willie.
@@DieselPerformanceEngineering Thanks will look it up but not sure in Australia. I’ve put waste veg oil through the pump starting cold on wvo and stopping on a ve pump full wvo. Not purging with diesel in hindsight should have plus better filtering! Only did 3000 kilometres. Brand new china copy ve pump. It looks putrid inside from bad oil or rust, water etc. What do you think is likely needing repair. Learning about this and not sure really what to do. Its in 100 peaces atm same as this video. The veins in the front pump part are really clogged up maybe its that. But its putrid brown rust sticky looking on all metal peaces! Its cleaning off pretty easy though. Im thinking of building some sort of crude homemade test bench at home too. I ordered a new head and rotary ali express. China again! Hard to work out where to get a coupler thing for it!? Ive got a three phase electric motor that might spin it with s VFD. Do you have other videos on how to determine what is wrong and right with the ve pumps? How do you figure out what’s wrong so know what to fix??
@@jaffasoft8976 to figure out if everything is running right you need a test stand with injectors, advance gauge, transfer pump gauge, boost control, and overflow measuring capabilities.
@@DieselPerformanceEngineering cool, i know what the advance gauge is! What’s the others. Its a bit noisy when watching any others vid the test bench is running and usually in a languages cant hear or understand. Have you done a run through video explaining what is going on during the test bench process with the different gauges. Most videos i see around are in a different language and can not follow. I just got me VE pump out the ultrasonic cleaner. It looks cleaned up pretty good with s tooth brush scrubbing all the parts. I will start assembling today. I have ordered some CC diesel cc volume measuring tubes and 6, 800mm lines to connect to pump. Finding a coupler for the VE pump to join the electric motor is bit tricky. Not sure where to buy an adapter as ve pump is slightly angled where it slides on the spline and woodruf key!? Not even sure how the adapter works never seen a video up close explaining how it bolts the ve pump on so it can spin it.
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This is the best pump disassemble I have seen! Thank you.
Going through my pump for my project. Got stuck at the end and your video helped a lot. Thanks
Glad to help out! Good luck on your project
Thank you.. Can you create a detailed video about a Kia Bengo 3 semi-electric diesel pump, white engine?? Thank you very much 🌹
Nice vid, nice workspace. Well done. Cheers from australia.
Great vid Levi! I just had my pump rebuilt by a "reputable" Bosch sevice center and I am pretty darn sure they put it together 180' out of phase and did not line up the slots and keyways so now I get to fix it. My question is what do you know of the fittings from the pump to injector? I am trying to set up an injector testor and need the tube, flares and nuts. Messics wants $225 for a set..woof! on my tractor, the nut size (wrench that fits) on the pump is 15mm and the nozzle holder (france kbel 83 s 35) is 17mm. If I knew what thread type and size, I might be able to find and ready made tube or adapter so I can connect my pressure source to the nozzle holder. Currently, my pressure source will connect to the 15mm nut but I have nothing for the injector holder end.
@@keshkakotera8972 typically the thread size on the pump is 12×1.5mm and the injector is normally 14x1.5mm
@@DieselPerformanceEngineering sorry to bother you. I just rotated my pump shaft, setting the keyway to the case timing mark and noticed the shaft moves in/out about .020 when it starts to come up a cam. Is that normal or did I forget a part? (yes, the little disk is in there!)
Nice detailed video mate!, I'm wondering if its possible to remove just the head (the black thing on the end) with the pump still on the engine and replace just the leaking o ring? I don't really want to do a complete tear down of my pump if I can avoid it.
You can, I've heard of people doing it. The correct way to take it apart and put it back together is in the vertical position according to Bosch to keep your springs, rods, etc from getting misaligned.
I’ve done it used grease to hold it in lasted 3 years just now getting pump issues but i think it’s unrelated
Thanks for the video! Got a quick question for you: Been driving a vehicle that doesn't have one of these, but a LUCAS one. The thing's acting up, with sudden bursts of power, especially on steep hills or when under load. Also, there seems to be air in the fuel lines. What are your thoughts? Could this be a sign of pump failure? Although it starts nice, doesn't smoke.
@@abdulissa4961 if you are getting air in the system I would check to see if the fuel system has quick connect plastic lines. They can crack or the orings go bad and the injection pump can suck air in through there
@@DieselPerformanceEngineering Thank you, sir! It does have quick connect lines, yes. I was told air intrusion can advance the timing. I don't know the mechanics of how that works. But is that a thing?
@@abdulissa4961 the pump uses hydraulic pressure (fuel) to move the advance piston. If air enters the system instead it will not advance correctly.
@@DieselPerformanceEngineering Thank you, sir!
Weld a angle iron to you pump bracket
Very helpful where can i get parts for these pumps the fuel lines on the Ksb selnoid is what i need to replace
Message me or call the shop with the pump number and I can get you a Bosch line. The number will be something like 0460426397 and stamped on the aluminum housing. Shop number is 8163246680
Thank you so much❤
I have a Bosch VE pump on a little VW 1.6 that's causing me some grief. I have 2 cylinders, 1 and 4, that aren't getting enough or no fuel at idle. Could this be an issue with delivery valves or something more internal? If I crack those 2 lines at the injectors while the engine is running, it doesn't change the idle at all. If I crack the other 2, the engine stumbles, as it should
@@schrankm could be delivery valves but more than likely if it is in the pump I'd say it is a bad cam plate.
I notice VE pumps come in left or right rotation. What's different and can the rotation be reversed?
Transfer pumps go in opposite directions, advance is on the other side, main body housings are different. Head and rotors are possibly ported different as well.
Nice video! Is there a catalogue or something for spare parts for these? I don't have a Cummins and some stuff is different on my pump
Normally there is a 10 digit number stamped on the main pump housing. From that number we can get parts breakdowns for you.
Can the head be removed and resealed without disassembling the rest of the pump ?
Some people have done that by sliding the head out just far enough to get the oring off and the new one on, but you run the risk of some internal pieces falling out of place when you do that.
Nice video. I have done a rebuild by my own pump. But now it runs hi rpm. An have no respons on the gas. Do you have you any idea what the problem can bee? Im not sure the covener shaft / fly weeli s in the same spot. Can that bee the problem? Hope you can give me some tips?
That can affect your advance on certain pumps but not your governor as far as I know. I would make sure everything in your governor looks right and then I'd make sure your fuel screw is in the same place. Fulcrum lever would be my next suspicion
Thanx for the quick response. I'm gone give the pump a new look. Maybe i do something wrong. What do you mean with the advange ? And the fulcrum levler is that the thing were the cable is fixt? Im from Holland and try to understand.
@@ruudvanewijk308 call Arjan at Dutch Pump Performance. We do work together and he can help you in Dutch!
Thanx i wil contact him.
Awesome video dude! I got some bad fuel and it rusted out my fuel filter sending all that rust through my pump. What wear part would cause a no start once hot? as soon as you cool the pump off with water it starts right up. I have the pump apart, everything looks great, I was thinking a worn cam plate but it looks okay, I haven't measured though
@@Mr.Harescramble typically a hard start when hot is a bad head and rotor they can look totally fine and still fail. If you get me a pump number I can look up pricing and availability for you
HI , just wondering if you've ever had a Case International 1455xl tractor, Case/Bosch diesel pump (Case Part No 3218937R91)dismantled, im working on this tractor and its broken two Delivery Valves off flush with the Head on the pump, is there any way of removing the broken pieces that are still in the Head without completely taking the pump apart, thanks Willie.
@@WilliamBenn-t7t yes, worked on plenty of those pumps. Your problem is very odd. Typically the line will break before the delivery valve holder. I'd try some sort of easy out or expansion tool to get out the threads stuck in the head.
Thanks for the reply,
The problem i'm struggling with is there's still part of the non return valve still inside the broken delivery valve,
I've phoned a couple of pump specialists who either can't cross reference the Case Part No's , or their quoting £500.00 to £600.00 to fully refurbish the pump ,
I had the tractor started by clamping a piece of rubber hose around the cracks, thinking they would screw out easily i tried to take them out which ended up where I am now,
Thanks again Willie.
Can you replace black Oring 21:20 into the video without taking everything apart
You can try on the tractor without taking the pump off but if something gets out of place you run the risk of breaking something internally
Nice
What chemical can i use ti submerge all the ve pump parts into an ultrasonic cleaner and run it fir a while to clean them all?
I use qx231 by crystal clean. It is meant to clean up fuels and oils which makes it great for pumps. I know head guys use it in their dunk tanks too.
@@DieselPerformanceEngineering Thanks will look it up but not sure in Australia.
I’ve put waste veg oil through the pump starting cold on wvo and stopping on a ve pump full wvo. Not purging with diesel in hindsight should have plus better filtering! Only did 3000 kilometres. Brand new china copy ve pump. It looks putrid inside from bad oil or rust, water etc. What do you think is likely needing repair.
Learning about this and not sure really what to do. Its in 100 peaces atm same as this video. The veins in the front pump part are really clogged up maybe its that. But its putrid brown rust sticky looking on all metal peaces! Its cleaning off pretty easy though.
Im thinking of building some sort of crude homemade test bench at home too. I ordered a new head and rotary ali express. China again! Hard to work out where to get a coupler thing for it!? Ive got a three phase electric motor that might spin it with s VFD.
Do you have other videos on how to determine what is wrong and right with the ve pumps? How do you figure out what’s wrong so know what to fix??
@@jaffasoft8976 to figure out if everything is running right you need a test stand with injectors, advance gauge, transfer pump gauge, boost control, and overflow measuring capabilities.
@@DieselPerformanceEngineering cool, i know what the advance gauge is! What’s the others. Its a bit noisy when watching any others vid the test bench is running and usually in a languages cant hear or understand. Have you done a run through video explaining what is going on during the test bench process with the different gauges. Most videos i see around are in a different language and can not follow.
I just got me VE pump out the ultrasonic cleaner. It looks cleaned up pretty good with s tooth brush scrubbing all the parts. I will start assembling today.
I have ordered some CC diesel cc volume measuring tubes and 6, 800mm lines to connect to pump. Finding a coupler for the VE pump to join the electric motor is bit tricky. Not sure where to buy an adapter as ve pump is slightly angled where it slides on the spline and woodruf key!? Not even sure how the adapter works never seen a video up close explaining how it bolts the ve pump on so it can spin it.