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Hey man can you do a video of rebuild my throttle is off and can't figure out how to put it back together lol

Hi, can we buy a replacement plunger? First time witnessing in opening a fuel pump head. Also, is it normal for the plunger to have scratches or scarring? Can it still be used or at least function according to its purpose? Thanks!

@1:44 can we buy a plunger separately? What happens if there are scratches to the shaft of that plunger?

This is seriously an incredible video. Thank you so so so much.

Hi, thanks for video. As i understand, VE pump doesn't have any screw for lock, you just remove down from vehicle?

exactly

Fantastic explanation!

Best explanation I've seen 👍

Really helpful - thank you for posting!

you should take all the videos on this pump and put them all in 1 video it will get more views. monetize the channel if you havent already then it might give you some change to do more stuff with.

Hello Brady - Mike from SW Western Australia I have a VE fuel injector pump on our 100HP turbo diesel in our yacht. Was delighted to review your 3 videos as I've had a recurring problem that has had the pump off twice. When the engine gets hot and I bring the RPM down towards ~1200 all is good. When I drop the RPM to idle, I'm not able to get the revs up over 1000 RPM no matter what throttle position I put to it. I have to wait till the engine cools to recover throttle response. The problem gets progressively worse over months of use to the point where I cannot get the revs up over 1000, hot or cold. Had the pump serviced; it was good for maybe 50 hours and now it's happening again. Anything come to mind that might be of help? Could that spring you show under the top section of the pump be the problem? After two attempts to have the fuel injector specialists fix it, I'm going to have a shot at fixing it myself. Thank you.

OK, I've watched two of your videos and you still don't seem to understand how the cold start function works. You have the mechanics correct but the electrical operation is murky. Follow the harness to the engine and you will find what looks like a coolant temp sensor or oil pressure sensor screwed into the head in a coolant passage. Two wires with a third cut off. The wax is in that switch and depending on how it is wired it can be cold open or cold closed. In the closed position 12 volts is passed through the switch controlling power to the solenoid on the cold start valve which moves the pintle of the valve to operate the fuel passage to the piston area. When the engine heats the switch in the wax pellet sensor on the engine changes state and the 12 volts is no longer passed. The one thing I wanted from your video was to remove the solenoid from the valve and tell me if there is a sealing washer between it and the valve.

hi whats the best way to bleed the air out of this pump

great video explaning the inner workings. thankyou!!!!

The ring that controls the amount of pressure. Bosch calls it a Control Sleeve or Metering Sleeve. I call it a Throttle Sleeve.

What a great series on this pump, the best on RUclips, thank you so much! I want to add LPG into the intake (LPG in europe is simply cheap automotive propane/butane gas) to reduce emissions, save some money, and improve running on veg oil instead of diesel when the time comes. your video really helped me figure this out, thank you :) The only advice i can give in return is that wax actuators like the one in the timing advance are extremely powerful (torquey) and slow, so i would bet that while your demonstration pump is a sticky binary left/right (retard/advance) i'd bet as that wax slowly heats up the timing control is continuous and not simply on/off. The ECU probably sends PWM signals to it constantly, i'll have a look this weekend. many thanks for all your hard work filming this!

Which seal causes the pump to lose prime? Great video!

Hey man are you still using this account? I’ve got a leak from my boost compensator breather so id like to ask a few questions. Fuel pin seal? Is it doable myself?

The best lesson ever. Thanks

My pump is not lifting fuel to start up, what part in the pump lifts fuel? After I prime the system it will run once I let it sit I have to keep priming to start it. I checked all lines no cracks

Brady, why did the camplate go bad? I 'm asking because i have an engine that shakes at idle and vibrates at most of the revrange. Injectors are overhauled and compression i within 2bar difference. Id like to know what you think. Thanks

Brilliant video. Only series of videos that has clued me in on what does what and what those mods do. Voted x3

Hi @Brady Mashak, let me ask you a question. I have a ZEXEL VE pump, very similar to the one in the video, but with 4 injection outlets. The vehicle (Mazda 2.0) was stopped for a year. I changed the fuel and put it into service after this time and it starts with an excessive number of RPM, almost at the maximum. Could you help me, what could it be? Thanks!

understanding how something works is the only way to know how to make mods that will provide improvements. great job on figuring it out. here is a link you might be interested in. its a tutorial that was made when the pre turbo bosch ve pump came about ruclips.net/video/SqBlqdeP3uE/видео.html

Please tell me,Which of these components is the fuel feed pump? Send me a picture

Hi, great videos I'm learning a lot. I have a ZEXEL VE pump but need it to operate in the opposite direction. Whats parts do I need to change to achieve this? Thanks

How would I adjust to get rid of extreme white smoke unused fuel while cold

I tested two identical Toyoya 1HZ VE Pumps today. One new and one that had AdBlue put through while driving by mistake and vehcle stopped. Manually turning the pumps with a socket off the vehcle, one spurts out little bits of fuel from the head valves and the other one doesn't pump anything. Think i will buy a new head and rotor. But why is it that AdBlue wrecks the pump isn't it just water or urea. The pump was completely dissmantled and cleaned spotless, there appears to be nothing wrong or broken in the pump. Can see some videos on my channel as well i have put some your helpful vids in a collective playlist. Thanks.

Great video! I have an engine with this pump that immediately goes to full throttle on start up and stays there. The throttle cable and arm are moving fine so I'm guessing it could be the governor or something that's stuck.

Injector pump Is there a job?

Hey Brady, these videos were helpful man thanks! I have a question, I replaced the fuel pin and gov spring on my 93 W350however it seems that its taking more time to build boost. I don't think there is a boost leak anywhere on the system simply by spraying soapy water on the intake/turbo joints and looking for bubbles, however I have not messed with the star wheel or smoke screw...could this be the problem?

Can you convert a 300tdi edc injector pump to a mechanical pump

Thank you good Sir. I learned so much from your videos on this pump.

this series is awesome!! I couldn't work out the lever on the top until I watched this. someone said it was the cold start adjustment when there is no wax heater. but when you said it was the manual shutoff I wondered because when I tried to use it on my b3.3, it didnt stop the engine. so still a bit confused

I really appreciate these videos. It helps me understand the voodoo going on inside my pump. My pump was causing running problems and finally stopped drawing fuel. After watching your videos, I realize my pump probably is beyond any reseal repair. I have metal glitter-like flakes coming out of my fuel return. Once I get a good pump, I will take mine apart to see what actually failed. I realize that I probably have metal flakes in my lines and injectors too. Thanks again for all the detailed info, it helps out a bunch.

I have a Bosch ve pump I have fluid on one cylinder on a 4 cylinder engine I was wondering if there is anywhere I should look 230,000 I bought a seal kit but wasn't sure if it would solve my problem

Hi Brady, I've got a VE pump on my T3 Vanagon and its leaking from the round pump head seal. Does the pump and pump head contain it self (sans the two small springs) if I remove the head while the pump is in car, or do you recon I'd better get the whole pump out?

Thank you

Also remember new LSD(Low Sulfur Diesel) has much less lubrication (15ppm) than when those were designed, which is why they get wiped out sooner. Add little oil in w/fill-up to get more life out of mech pumps.

How to bought drive shaft

I have a bosch ve pump with electric quantity control, is there any way i can change it to the mechanical. Car in question is mercedes 312d, the pump is not dilivering enough pressure to open injector and i thinknits because the relive part of the plunger, because the electics is not closing it. So any idea will help

Great video! I'm having trouble reinstalling the eccentric control pin. It seems that the pin it rubs against is spring loaded and just pops out again when i try to push it in with a screwdriver like in the video. Any suggestions?

Thank you for the video. Very informative.

My pump is turned a little bit hot and I worry that if something ever goes bad in the pump that it will run away. Before the pump I have a little ball valve between the VE and the lift pump. It also doubles as an anti theft device. No fuel to the pump= no start

Would the cut-off solenoid fail without the pump failing, or would a failing solenoid take out the pump?

AGAIN, excellent videos! I've replaced my start/stop solenoid 3 times now and have to do it again now. However, it's never the magnetic / mechanical aspect that is failing, but something inside the fuel delivery seating area keeps damaging the rubber plunger. The mechanism 'opens and closes', but the rubber always ends up with a crescent shaped cut, like a fingernail, opposite to the outside circle of the plunger. You can see the damage in my video at 4:11 - ruclips.net/video/Ac-R58Gfsb4/видео.html The solenoid I replaced in this video may be 20 years old, and the rubber was crumbly, so didn't think much of the damage. However, every sequential replacement suffers exactly the same 'cut/notch' damage. The plunger doesn't seem to get jammed by any metal shrapnel and the magnetic system always works. ONLY the rubber plunger being damaged in exactly the same way each time. PLEASE HELP! I'm spending about $30 every two months just for new solenoid plungers. Thanks in advance!

In some of our defenses, we may live in certain countries where people drive like mentally challenged child clowns and we want enough power to pass them quickly, and with a safe margin of distance throughout this avoidance (often life saving) process. GREAT VIDEO...thank you very much!

Hello ...i have tdi42 installing into 1998 UD 1400 6cylinder diesel and it has been sitting for 2years i did start it every week but last week i start it and its start shaking and smoking white diesel smoke and no return coming on no power what do you think please?

This nigga's shop is so clean that he walks around with socks on.!! Imperssive.