Briggs and Stratton Carburetor Fuel Shut off solenoid information
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Look below to get a cheap replacement part ↓ Here is a quick look at the infamous Briggs and Stratton carburetor fuel shut off solenoid particularly on the Briggs and stratton engine, but also the kohler, kawasaki and probably others.
Get a cheap new one in the USA
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Get a cheap new one in Canada
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#briggsandstratton
Thx for the help im 10 and i just fixed my dads lawn mower
Best tip in a while
There use to stop the engine from back firing when you start it up after shutting it off , take it off and buy the small plug thats made to take it place ..
i was GIVEN a troy built 18 hp riding mower because my friend just got tired of spraying starting fluid on the air filter just to get it to start , when i got it i unscrewed the electric solenoid , ground off the plunger and screwed it back on and it cranked like a brand new mower ...lol i have had 0 problems with it backfiring
Nice work!
My question is, can you just remove that solenoid and put a drain bolt in the hole like the old carburetors use to have? And will it work?
Well no because if you remove it it's not there and it can't do its job if you read through the comments you will see what I mean.
@@machinesnmetal I am seeing other videos that say that I can remove it as long as I have a manual shut off valve (which I already have). I just need to put in a drain plug in the bottom of the bowl. Thanks for commenting though.
Then you've missed the entire point of the video. It's an anti back fire valve it has very little to do with turning on and off the flow of gas from your fuel tank. It stops the flow of fuel through the carburetor the instant you get off the seat or turn the mower off preventing a backfire which in some cases will crack your engine block.
I used locking needle nose pliers.
Tech tip!
Hey I have b&s exi2400 24hp how do I tune carburetor
There isn't much, get a jet kit
Just got a brand new carb and fuel is still pouring into the engine. Does this have anything to do with the solenoid? Im so confused.
Most likely your float needle is not sealing.
@@machinesnmetal also, the gas that is coming back through the return hose is mixed with oil im pretty sure. Could a bad head gasket cause an influx of gas through the carb? Thanks
Probably not the head gasket. Your engine is full of gas/oil mix because the carburetor needle is not sealing and the gas has drained from the tank into your engine. You need to install a $2 fuel tap on your fuel line to shut the fuel off when you park your tractor.
Ethanol gas attracts water. buy 100% gas
The solenoid prevents backfire when shutting engine off, all the other stuff is just consequence.
Thank you! We'd rebuilt the carburetor, new plug, new coil, but it was still shutting off randomly! Thanks to this video, I pulled this solenoid and realized it was shutting when it was supposed to be opening! Pulled it, cut off the rubber stopper and reinstalled it, and now it works again!
I think you have the wires connected backwards. I wouldn't cut the rubber stopper off the top, if the machine is shut down on a high idle or someone is mowing and gets up for some reason and the engine shuts down due to seat safety switch you could get a nasty backfire and it will send the connecting rod through the side of the block. The solonoid is there for a reason, don't mess with it.
@@machinesnmetal We've pulled the safety switch off the seat already. The solenoid was plugged correctly, but was faulty; it would work for a while then, randomly shut off the fuel. It was very frustrating. I will keep your advice in mind and look for a replacement, but for the time being, I'm using a stopcock to shut off the fuel when the mower isn't in use.
@@machinesnmetal I think I should clarify. This has been about a year long odyssey. I got this machine from my father's estate - he was an engineer who did a lot of small engine repair after retirement. Once I got it cleaned up, replaced the battery, it ran really well, (though now that I think about it, it did backfire a bit) but only for a while. I could get about a bag load of grass before it would inexplicably stop and wouldn't start again until it was completely cool. It acted like it was running out of gas but it only did it (at that point) when it warmed up. We had the local Snapper shop rebuild the carburetor, it still did it, then we had him change out the coil, and it still did it. We even detached the safteys to try and isolate the problem, but it still did it. Went to a Briggs and Stratton plug; still did it. After the last time it stopped dead, I couldn't get it started at all even after letting it cool off completely. At that point, I didn't want to spend more money on this machine, so I called my BIL and asked him to look at it (he's a farmer with a big shop). He fiddled around with it but couldn't get it to start either. I was on the verge of scrapping it, so I figured as a last resort I would check the solenoid. I hadn't done so earlier, figuring my guy who rebuilt the carb would have already done so. Anyway, I pulled it out and we hooked it up to the wires and tried turning the ignition. When turned to start, the solenoid pushed the plunger out - so we switched it around, turned the ignition and it still pushed the plunger out! So, whichever way the plug went, the plunger was pushing up, blocking the flow of gas when we tried to start the engine! That sure seemed like the source of the problem. On another video, it mentioned something about cutting off that little rubber end to hack it. At this point, I figured I didn't have anything else to lose. Well, cutting off the rubber stopper did work. The mower is running now and I am using the stopcock on the fuel line to keep the gas from the carburetor when it's not running. I am going to run it for a while to make SURE that was the problem, and if it turns out it was, your advice seems to be that I replace the solenoid with a new one. Alright, I can do that. Right now, I'm just glad I can get and keep this mower running!
That rubber piece literally prevents your mower engine from blowing up when you shut it down, I highly recommend you order a new one off amazon ($25) and get it back in there.....
Just my 2 cents worth, but on my B&S v-twin same problem. As for backfiring when shutting off, I don't know, haven't gotten that far yet as to removing the rubber stopper. But the carb does have a float in the float bowl so that will prevent flooding (I tested it out, it works) when the machine is shut down. Small engines have been running this way for decades with no problems without the solenoid, to me its just another thing to break down forcing you to buy parts or taking it in for servicing. So, take what I say not as a professional (no where near that) but I think that its up to you to either replace the part or by pass it, its your machine. For those of you that still has a warranty, no question, new part
Awesome. Exactly what I’m dealing with but could not find detail on how this solenoid worked. Thanks
The fuel solenoid has nothing to do
With engine flooding
Anti backfire solenoid so raw fuel dont get pumped into the hot exhaust larger quiet mufflers and go boom 👍 and lowers "emissions" generators have them also big quiet mufflers 👍 and fuel shut off solenioids on carburetors
If yourun Seafoam thru the motor periodically, you will keep the carbs journals and small bits from forming varnish that gums up parts like that. Try it, you'll see. I makes a great fuel stabilizer for long term storage also!
They last only about 2 yrs Then it want run and have to replace the carburetor solenoid> You can super glue it open! but fuel will leak in the engine. can put a shut off valve on the hose, to shut the fuel off every time you stop it. turn it on to start it. Pray you can get the old one to work. Spend 3 dollar for a valve , or 25 dollars for a new shut off carburetor solenoid. Your choice
there is a link to buy the new one in the description $8
on Google Search they wanted like 14 to 25 bucks for 1 ~ Very cool
Been working on my father's boleans with a briggs and stratton. Took off the carb and the fuel solenoid. Gas sat in this thing for awhile, and it was absolutely frozen up. I couldn't see anything so I took the rubber cap off and took some needle nose and tried to pull that plunger up. Nasty, black tar came out of that thing, no wonder it wouldn't move. Took a lot of carb cleaner and moving it up and down to pump that gunk out. Thanks for the video!
it stops the motor from sucking gas in to the muffler... when you shut it off .. it stops it from back firing ... thuo it doesn't work all the time 🤔
The fuel solenoid has nothing to
Do with engine flooding. All
Its designed to do is
Prevent the engine from backfiring upon engine shut off.
I agree and disagree. I run into these carburetors that have leaky float needle valves and these solonoids prevent the leak from flooding the intake.
@@machinesnmetal if a carburetor has a faulty needle and or inlet seat the carburetors going to flood whether or not it has a fuel solenoid or not that’s a fact
Can you please do a video on that subject so we can see?
@@machinesnmetal you bet!
Just yank the needle right out and mount the carb in a vise the solonoid is naturally extended when not connected to power.
Most problems it’s losing 12 volts I am going to ruin another wire
I just installed a fuel shut off valve and just run my carburetor out of fuel after every use. The solenoid was allowing fuel to enter the cylinder and seep down into the crankcase oil while it was just sitting.
that means your float needle / seat is not sealing and leaking.
Just more un-needed stuff to cause headaches for you. The old mowers didn't have that valve. So I cut the plunger off with side cutters and be done with it.
Old mowers engines were built much more robust and could withstand the internal pressure of a backfire, these new engines are built so close to minimal tolerances, case thickness etc, that they will sometimes crack or split under a good backfire, hence the fuel plug solonoid.
on mine that rubber tip came loose and was floating free and some time shut off the engine by floating up and shutting off the fuel
Thank you so very much for the video.
hey, seriously, thank you for this video. much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
I made a plug out of mine. Took the guts out of it and brazed up the hole and screwed its back in. It was on my 24hp Koehler Scag Patriot. Electronics should never be put on these small motors.
Nice work!
Sad world when you got to mention spark and gas.
Done it yet but I need to i don't think you can just do it like that i have to go to FS office. Don't I
Yep
Mines was smoking from the wire, does that mean it’s bad?
Yeah
I was mower won't start took carb off to give it a look over. Everything looked fine. Put it back together. Went back out about an hour later the air intake tube is full of gas. What the hell did I do? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Make sure your float and needle are clean and functional
@@machinesnmetal I'm going to double check tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.
Don't make Tecumseh engines anymore, thank God, Lol.
you said it friend.
My solenoid kept falling out, so I screwed bolt in, then JB welded it in. Now I use the fuel shut off under the gas tank instead of relying on a part that falls out. Everything's made from cheap foreign junk or I'd replace the carb. My 60" Swisher tow mower runs great now, it didn't when I got it used for $1000 9 years ago. At first it would run but sputter to a stop during a turn. So I screwed out the solenoid draining the bowl then I switched to non ethanol gas. My Cub Cadet lawn tractor had the same problem, water collected in the carb bowl due to ethanol gas. Another RUclips channel said the solenoid was useless and Chickanic was right.
The unit that I'm working on now came to me with and oil sump full of fuel.. the solenoid plunger was stuck in the down position that was crap in it and it was blocking that spring return on the plunger. So cleaning up the carburetor clean up the bowl cleaning up that little unit I'm also going to install a . Manual fuel cutoff. It's right in the center of the bottom of the bowls for any sediments going to go right into it.. of course if the plunger remains in the closed position.. it will have difficulty running I'm okay with that.. but I'm not okay with it stuck in the open position flooding out the crankcase with fuel.. and the number one reasons why.. that's right they don't drain the fuel at the end of the season.. no matter how much the customer promises they will they won't.. there you go there's your dinner
I took the old shut off solenoid and when I try to put the new one it won’t go in, I mean, it goes half the way up and the it keep spinning and doesn’t screw it. What. What u did wrong? Not even the old one wants to go in all the way back up
Did you get the right one? There's different ones
i Think so, even the old one (the original one i took out won't go all the way up)@@machinesnmetal
If you unplug it, fuel dumps into the exhaust and it sounds like a firecracker exploding.
That's AWESOME!!
This guy says this engine not good, but that Briggs & Stratton is a great engine if it is serviced regularly, they run for years without any bother....
Thanks tough guy, I think I just had one go and I wanted to understand it before I messed with it, but it is highly suspect.
I was sitting in my back yard and my bronco mower kept choking thank you for this video. I taped mines a few times with a screwdriver and Boy. She came back to acting normal again.👌🏾
Thank you bud!! I've been struggling to get my mower running and it's just not feeding fuel to the motor. I'm directly jumping the starter with a full battery bypass which means that solenoid is getting no power... I thought it was just an overflow switch. I couldn't find anything explaining what the solenoid does until I came across your video. I knew it had to do with that stupid thing.. thanks again!
Man, I just replaced the carb on mine and all of a sudden, the thing won’t start anymore. It had been starting and running fine, but rough, so I decided to give her the old 5 year maintenance... turns out, the fucker before me had bypassed this solenoid by grinding down the plunger. I replace it and no good because all of the wiring to this solenoid was fucked, and that’s likely why he had it bypassed in the first place. Cleaned all contacts, fixed wiring and back in business. THANKS!!!
Anti-dieseling solenoid.
Forgot to plug it in when I replaced the carburater, and I still ran find, just everheated? Will it make an engine overheat?
Love you
I Lost my plunger, I need one; any ideas?
amazon.com
Would that be my problem if engine starts random missing after 30 minutes of running? All filters and plug are new. Fresh gas. ???????
it could be but probably check inside your fuel tank for grass or leaves sounds like the pickup tube is plugging up.
Ours wasn't missing, but would just shut off like it had run out of gas. If it's missing, consider replacing the coil.
Hello! Bought a used Troy Bilt Pony 15.5 hp riding lawnmower. I've replaced the Nikki with a new OEM B&S Walbro carb, however the solenoid wires don't fit into the connection port. Thoughts? Can I put the solenoid from the Nikki onto the Walbro or what's the correct fix?
I'd cut and swap the plugs.
Good video. That part is not expensive. Amazon carry one for 9 dollars, I just ordered the carburator for my 17.5 HP, Pony, Troy Bilt.
On my mower I got a shut off valve from the hardware store and put it in the fuel line and shut it off when I get done mowing works good no more losing fuel
I'm having the same problem..I hope it's this.. all else checks out..getn gas.. spark..all that.. but I checked this and even with 2 wires and touching straight to the battery It won't work.. and mine will not go down..I can do what you did and up and down with ur finger.. so I hope it's this. And yes mine comes with a washer too.. but I didn't have to grind down a wrench.. the washer gave enough room.. but THANK YOU FOR THE VID..🤘🤘🤘👍👍
You are the mechanic now!
Thank you very very much!!!!
I get rid of mine by snapping the plunger off. Lol if it's what kills the engine on certain models I just run a wire off the coils off the ignition to a ground to kill it. Works like a charm.
What if the solenoid stay down(stuck) won’t go up?
that center in in the solenoid is used to allow fuel to flow in the tiny tube at a level set by the float in the bowl when you turn off the key it removes the 12 volts that holding the soleoid in open pos. i other word the tiny pin is spring loaded to rise with volage removed there by stopping eng it looks like the solenoid is be ing blamed for fuel prob some where else
My 23hp Briggs & Stratton backfires when I turn it off, could a semi-working solenoid be the issue?
Yeah, the solenoid pin gets sticky with dirt deposits and dosent fire up to plug the hole fast enough, take it off and clean it out with brake clean make sure it bounces back with no resistance
thanks for explaining what that is. i thought i was a water in fuel sensor or somthing. i got a 21hp platinum thats been sitting for years with stale fuel. i cleaned up all the ports i could but its hunting at all throttle speeds except with choke.
would that be something to do with that mixture adjusting screw fuel supply?
thats the only one i didnt't take apart. all the gaskets look ok.
It's probably more likely your carburetor Jets need to be taken out and cleaned. Some of those carburetors have a little bit of adjustment to them but usually not enough to make any difference if it is surging as much as you say it is.
Thats exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks for sharing
Theres what I wanted to see. The special wrench you made. I wondered how Im supposed to get that off. Thanks! Just grind off 1/2 wrench make it flat enough to go in there!
Nice work!
G'day mate. I had a problem with the fuel solenoid on my Husqcana ride-on mower and was able to get it working perfectly by removing the rubber tip (the part that actually seals and shuts off the fuel) of the solenoid and replacing it again. My question is... can I leave it like this forever? Is there any real need to have the fuel off when not using the mower? Maybe I am missing something.
It prevents the engine from loading up with air fuel mixture when you shut it down. You run the risk of a backfire which on some of the cheaper intek motors will break the cam decompression tab or on some of the colors will crack the block
Thanks
Thank you for making this video. We have a Craftsman tractor with a B&S engine on it and one of these valves and it was running very poorly and now it is not running. I'll take that valve off and see if it is stopped up and if the gas is also bad. it has been sitting for a few years now................................. Cheers, Jim
Are those also on Briggs & Stratton engines that have their own fuel pump? I don't recall seeing that on my 23 hp engine. I'm thinking something is keeping the engine from starting with the carburetor or fuel system but don't know what it is. My machine is fed gas from my van's tank up to the engine and then has it's own pump to deliver the gas to the carburetor at the proper amount. The engine will easily turn over but will not even begin to start without starter fluid and then it just dies immediately.
sounds like its not getting fuel into or through the carbretor. In answer, some have both a fuel pump and a solonoid.
That solonoid can cause a lot of problems,after long time trouble I finally cut the plunger off and disconnected the wire. No more fuel problems,just a little back fire when I turn it off sometimes,no big deal. Also I don't care what some say I've been mowing 7 acres with a 17.5 hp Briggs for 15 yrs and that engine still runs great,and the Nikki carb is not as much a problem as some claims. Just my 2 cents👺
,
Same here. Occasional backfire, especially if I leave the blades engaged in full throttle and just turn the key off. Makes me jump sometimes when I'm not expecting it. I should get better about disengaging blades and lowering the throttle first, but I'm lazy.
@@bnasty267 You might see if it needs a valve lash adjustment, especially if it's also kicking back when you try to start it.
Backfire = adjust valve lash
Man I got to say , I have had brigs and Stratton motors run for 15 years with heavy extreme abuse, I have had many kohlers that fail within a couple to a few years , internal problems, oil leaks and to full blown blow ups, I don't know why people say brigs are not that great because they run amazing for me , I've got a brigs on a pressure washer I bought in 2009 and it's still running great, I use the hell out of it , I got another brigs lawn mower motor that was in a 2007 lawn mower . .I wore that lawn mower down to junk - I pulled that motor and replaced a kohler that blew up after 6 years , the brigs is still running as of July 2023
It's because you use them. Alot of viewers leave them sit for years at a time and they go stale and stop working
Price?
remove and manual petlock; these seem to fail all the time.
Excellent vid !! Have a 2004 Bolen and haven't done anything to it, but I decided to change the belts. Once I finished, the damn thing wouldn't start :( When I sprayed starting fluid it started to run. Now, I have to tear down the carb and clean it. I appreciate the tips on the fuel shutoff and how to get it working again. If that's the problem. Take Care !
Thank you for the video. Always wondered what the hell that thing-a-jig was.
Cool I was wondering why my mower wouldn't crank lol
Thanks for this video. I'm fighting my Briggs & Stratton 344cc, keeps leaking fuel into the engine oil when left for a couple of days. I took out the solenoid, the tip seems to be of hard plastic, not rubber. Also, it moves freely but feels a bit loose. Is the solenoid not supposed to close with some force? It opens easily on the table, when I gently lay it upside down, with the plastic tip down. Or perhaps my problem is the float needle not sealing?
I would focus on the float needle . Or just cut your fuel line and install a $2 fuel tap.
Great info on the mechanical end but what about the electrical aspect? Will the mower turn on with the solenoid unplugged? Mine started smoking so I unplugged it. I ground the tip of mine down and fuel flows no problem but now the starter wont turn. Were you going to mention anything about that mr informative??
Sorry I've never modified one in the such a way ive always repaired it properly for my customers. I don't have any experience with grinding them down or running them unplugged unfortunately but there's a lot of people in the comments that have jimmy fixed it that way perhaps message one of them?
Thanks for this great information!!! It will save me a lot of money. I really like your presentation. 👍
Glad it was helpful!
18.5 ft lbs of totque??? Ummm HP.
It's an 18.5 but Briggs no longer for a long time now puts HP ratings on their engines. They were caught lying so it needs to be displayed in ftlbTQ
My mower is surging. I removed the solenoid and its sluggish, could this be the problem? My Husqv mower is 9 years old.
Probably a plug carburetor jet you need to go a little further down the rabbit hole
Thank you for sharing that I was loosing my mind Trying to figure out what was wrong with my Briggs & Stratton motor and your solution worked thank you again
Glad I could help
Remove this and you take a chance of gasoline filling up the oil pan causing engine to smoke severely when running and ruin the internal moving parts .
Needle and float sticking. Install fuel shutoff to prevent that
Thanks for the info very helpful
I used my bench grinder to narrow a 1/2" open end wrench and got the solenoid out. THANKS for your insight!!!
That works. Sometimes you can get in there with the tip of a small set of needle nosed vise grips as well.
I have been trying to get my cylinoid off for two days. The bastard just will not come off
you need a 1/2" wrench ground skinny
thanks found exactly what i need to know
Glad to hear!
Why would a fuel solenoid get hot?
It's an electro-magnet they get hot.
@@machinesnmetal OK Thank you. Just wondering if that was normal.
What would fry my fuel shut off valve? My mower stopped on me and I saw smoke coming from the engine. When I looked at it, the shut off solenoid connector had melted and was smoking.
What voltage is your regulator putting out?
@@machinesnmetal I have no way to test it because it requires the engine to be running and I can't run the engine with a closed fuel shut-off solenoid.
just replace the solonoid with a bowl bolt to do the test.
The fuel tank on that mower is above the engine ( gravity fed) and If that solonoid fails and doesn't shut the fuel off it can flood your engine cylnder and pollute your oil. It happened on the one that i own. it actally hydro locked the cylinder so that the engine would not even turn over. I took out the spark plug and turned the engine over and gas was flying out of the spark plug hole. I changed the oil 3 times and then put a shut off valve before the carburator so it would never happen again. BAD DESIGN !!!
If your engine filled with gas you have a leaky float needle. This solonoid device only stops the air/fuel mixture from entering the combustion chamber when you shut the machine down at full throttle (or get off the seat while mowing) it prevents backfires due to a rich air/fuel condition that is caused when the spark is cut by either of the above methods.
@@machinesnmetal Thanks for the reply !! You are correct the float needle was bad but I thought the fuel shut off solenoid should have prevented the fuel from entering the carburator and flooding the engine.... I thought fuel shut off meant fuel shut- off .Otherwise ,Since its gravity fed from the fuel tank The only thing preventing flooding would be the float needle. In any event it don't matter since I won't have to trust either . I now have a shut-off valve on the gas line and i sleep much better at night LOL
@@machinesnmetal Also I forgot to say my Mower still randomly backfires after shutdown and restarting with the solenoid still hooked up and I only shut the mower down at low idle. When I rebuilt the carb I cleaned the shaft on the solenoid as it was kind of dirty but I suspect it's still not working correctly .... my Craftsman is old (15yrs) but serviced regularly by me and kept in a shed. Last year I pulled the mower deck out , put 2 coats of paint on it and replaced spindles, pulleys ,belts , actually everything. It has blown the head gasket twice in the same spot , Which i also fixed... it's due to a bad design which I was told by the Dealer. The head bolts are too far apart on one side..which is where it blows out ...
does it matter which way it's plugged in? the connector fits both ways and i dont remember how it was
I don't think so.
Perfect video 👍 you helped me tremendously.
18.5 ft pounds of torque......Hmmm.
Great video I was so confused I never see this before
Thanks. Mine is weird: I remove the solenoid and reconnect the two-wire plug and switch on -- nothing happens. I disconnect the plug and put probes in it and get near to 12v when I switch on (so wiring and switch just be okay and the solenoid is faulty. BUT, I connect the solenoid to a 12v (car) battery and the plunger retracts -- so the solenoid IS working... Ideas, please!
I think you need to touch the solenoid case to the engine to ground it.
@@machinesnmetal Thanks. But it has two wires, the short black one going clearly to ground.
yes, but it may need to be case grounded as well.
@@machinesnmetal "case grounded"?? Sorry, i had to look that up. Mr Google hasn't heard of it either! Never mind, but thanks.
Amazon: Buy a set or individual Bicycle open end wrenches. Very thin.
"cone wrenches"
@@machinesnmetal NICE!!
Just disconnect the wire from the bottom of the solenoid -add a in-line fuel shut off valve -no more problems for me
👍
Exactly what I did my and Orange Turd still runs after1,000 hrs.
look close at the label on the engine and see: 18.5 gross horsepower
junk motors either way
I use a bicycle cone spanner strong and narrow ..no need to grind any spanner..
Thank you for that info. I’ll go find out about this wrench you’re talking about.
Thanks for the explanation. My problem, and its giving me fits, is that the electrical connection between the ignition and the solenoid on my older Ariens tractor is loose and the solenoid kicks on and off as I mow my lawn, shutting down my mower. I have replaced the carb and now am looking for a better way to connect the ignition wire to the solenoid, like maybe a screw connection that won't vibrate free?
Solder?
Possibly. I think that I will try to find a used one to practice on first before I try to solder that $65. part. Thanks for the idea.
I put in a new carb. does it matter which way the plug connector goes in the fuel shut off. it fits either way.
I'm not 100% sure but I don't think it matters I have run into this myself before I believe one of the wires just tags back to the engine case for a ground the other one is part of the ignition key system just make sure that if the original solenoid had the ground wire on the right side pin connect your new plug so that the ground wire is on the right side pin or vice versa
Just like you, it goes both ways
Thanks for all of the great info on the solenoid.... as well as making the special wrench to remove it.... Was wondering about how to remove it. Great video. 👍👍
Would that be the problem with my 22 horse Husqvarna Briggs & Stratton when I park it and say like the next day I started and gas sprays out the exhaust would it be the fuel solenoid sticking or staying open
probably but could also be your carb float/needle isnt sealing
just cut your fuel line and install a $3 fuel tap, turn the fuel off when your done with the tractor until next time.
Thank you for the info I appreciate it.
Does it surge too?
Where do these solenoid wires go? Where do they connect?
To the harness usually one wire goes to ground and the other goes up to keyed on power
mine won't start, if i spray starting fluid in the carb it starts until it burns up the fluid, the fuel filter is good so i guess the solenoid is stuck closed.
yep, or your out of gas in the tank.
@@machinesnmetal it has gas so it must be the solenoid
Could very well be
Thank you!
Also on ebay.
Thank you
The fuel solenoid has nothing to do with flooding. It only prevents backfiring
Flooding causes backfire.....
@@machinesnmetal An engine doesn’t have to be flooding to back fire. An engine is more likely to backfire when it’s not flooding and the air/fuel mixture is correct because a correct air/fuel mixture is easier to ignite. When you kill the engine it immediately stops the spark at the spark plug. As the engine rotates a few more times before it stops, the air/fuel mixture will go into the cylinder but since there’s no spark it’s not burned, so when the exhaust valve opens the unburned air/fuel mix will go into the muffler. If the muffler is hot enough it will ignite that mixture causing a backfire. The fuel solenoid has nothing to do with flooding. The only thing that controls the flow of fuel into the carb is the float, needle, and seat.
I disagree,
These solenoids were introduced because users were either shutting off their ignition with the engine running at full throttle, or they were getting off their seat, causing the safety system to cut the power to the ignition coil thus allowing the engine to ingest air/fuel mixture, as there is no spark to ignite it, it will flood the intake, combustion chamber, and exhaust. Once the user starts the machine back up, on occasion the unburnt air/fuel mixture contained in the intake, combustion chamber, and exhaust would ignite causing a backfire. The solenoid was added to the electrical system in order to plug the mainjet in the carburetor thus cutting the fuel in the air/fuel mix making it impossible for the intake/combustion chamber/exhaust to flood with mixture due to lack of fuel.
Here is an excerpt from a Briggs and Stratton service manual:
The fuel solenoid prevents fuel from flowing while shutting the engine down to prevent backfiring while the engine is still turning but the ignition is off since the created vacuum is pulling fuel.
@@machinesnmetal That’s exactly what I said. The air/fuel mixture will make it into the cylinder and then into the muffler where it can ignite. But that is not called flooding. You notice Briggs and Stratton doesn’t call it flooding. Flooding is defined as having an uncontrolled flow of fuel going into the carburetor/intake/cylinder. Backfire will happen even if the air/fuel mixture is perfect. You wouldn’t say the carb is flooding the cylinder with the perfect air/fuel mixture.
Would a better term perhaps be "charged"?
Where are the two wires on the solenoid connected
One goes to ground on the side of the engine & the other one goes to the key switch
Very Good!..