How to stop a Briggs crankcase from flooding with gas Order carb below
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2013
- amzn.to/1Mha5gD Briggs Replacement Carburetor
amzn.to/2ef7RbY Oem Carburetor Replacement
amzn.to/2dHGV3H Brass Seat Replacement Check part #
If your tractor keeps leaking gas into the crankcase see how you can fix the problem by replacing the needle and seat. Removing the seat on these larger Briggs and Stratton engines can be difficult, so see how you can do it by watching this video. Disclaimer:
Doublewide6 has a Master’s Degree in industrial technology with a specialization in Manufacturing, due to factors beyond the control of Doublewide6 and anyone featured in his videos, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Doublewide6 assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video or any of Doublewide6’s videos. Use this information at your own risk. Doublewide6 recommends safe practices when working on equipment, power tools, chemicals, electronics, electrical systems, vehicles, and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Doublewide6, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Doublewide6. Please support Doublewide6 by donating to his Patreon Account / doublewide6
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amzn.to/1Mha5gD Briggs Replacement Carburetor
amzn.to/2ef7RbY Oem Carburetor Replacement
amzn.to/2dHGV3H Brass Seat Replacement Check part #
doublewide6 Repairs LLC v
Wow thanks a million i learned so much .
I've replaced mine with a brand new carb. Done compression test. I start it runs fine for 10 seconds. Then fuel pours out of the crankcase Vent tube. So frustrating any ideas.
Great place to learn different things
I watched another video like this and they advocated just using a shut off valve. This does not fix the problem, it addresses the symptom but the carb/engine will never run right. You Sir are a good mechanic . I know this is 5 years old but you helped me understand my Snapper's problem and I thank you ! Have a good weekend ! :-)
another tip if crankcase was full of gas need to change oil because gas will make it's way passed the piston rings & into the oil. remove the spark plug & crank it over a few times to blow that gas out of there. thumbs up the vid, good info
Thanks for posting this video. I had this same problem on a Troy-Bilt Wide-Cut Combo Mower and this video helped me to solve the problem without having to take it into the shop. Many thanks! Before I watched this video, I was thinking my engine was totally shot, given the smoke that was billowing out of it. When I found a lot of gas in the crankcase, I figured that was the final nail in the coffin. I can't believe all that was caused by such a simple problem, and the fix was pretty easy.
Saved this video in case I start having problems with my Briggs carburetor on my single stage engine on my John Deere - and thanks so much . I've had my John Deere for 10 years with no problems - bought it new .
Finally I thought I blew a head gasket and changed the sonbitch and cut the grass..went to start it up next time to cut the grass a week later and puff , a big cloud of white smoke and gas in oil again.. so now I will try this lol
Thanks man great vid
Great video. You explained everything in great detail. You hit a home run on this video. Thanks My Briggs now run perfectly and with no gas in the crank case!!
Excellent video! Step by step and easy to follow. Took care of my B & S issues. Thanks!
This was very informative and smooth. I feel i can replace those parts confidently. Thanks Steve
Excellent job of showing me how to change these parts! Thank you Judie
I was looking for a video to help me tear down my Carb, when I saw this video on the side. You explained my problem with my engine. Perfect! I ordered the parts, followed your instructions and my neighbors are not making fun of my hay field grass anymore. Thank you!
My brothers tractor has the same problem. Great video so we should be able to fix it ourselves. Thanks!
Thank you for making this video!
Great video! Thanks for the outstanding explanation.
Very clear and concise instruction.
Thankyou Sir.
I just buy a bag of inline fuel shutoff valves every few years and use them on a wide variety of engines.
That way you can and I do run the carb dry at end of season. Briggs controlling primary fuel delivery with a needle and seat saves them tons of money due to volume, but serious gravity feed systems (nearly every carbureted motorcycle for example) use reliable manual shutoff valves and don't rely on needle and seat to do more than maintain carb fuel level.
Awesome video! Thank You So Very Much for the information and part numbers in this video. :)
Great video. working on 18 yr old Briggs 15 HP with hydrolock and gas shooting out air fltr and plug hole. Is there any other problem that causes gas in oil?
Great video, thanks for posting this.
You have a new sub.
Well done. Good explanation. Thank you.
Thankyou!! Great clip
Great video, I have same engine with same problem, I love that you included parts numbers. Well done doublewide
Doing the same this weekend. Thanks!
Thanks a lot for your video...
Great video
does it work on Murray lawn mower with brighs and Stratton motor?
THANK YOU FOR YOUR INSTRUCTION
Fabulous.
Awsm job man!
Thanks for the vid!
I bought a cheap used mower with this engine... My solenoid checks out ok, the needle and seat are crap though Im sure, when I took it apart they were stuck together and gunked up. I left it sit a week in the shed and what little gas I put in the tank all drained into the crank case, so I guess the solenoid is also not sealing, although it certainly clicks in and out just fine. (bench tested) . Inline valve is something I will definitely add, but Im not sure its such a great thing to say, "well Ill just put an inline valve in and forget the leaky needle/seat"....because the carb will constantly be flooding....running rich in that case...I mean hell if you stop to drink some water you'll have to turn the valve off quick....I guess I will attack it from all angles---needle and seat kit AND an inline valve. Not sure I care too much about the solenoid.....by the time I would buy the needle and seat AND the solenoid, I could get a whole new carb for that money.
Dude awesome video man thank u
After dealing with many of these and putting fuel shut off valves in these I believe the problem is with the fuel caps not venting properly--the fuel cap must vent in and out--believing the easy fix is to drill a 1/8 hole in the fuel cap--or replace the fuel tank lid--
I had this problem and ended up buying a new nikki carb. That darn thing surges and I can't seem to get it adjusted properly. I may just buy a new float needle and seat and rebuild my old walbro. It's the exact carb you've got here in this video. Thanks!
THANK YOU. IT'S AWESOME.
The hard starting is caused by fuel filling the cylinder. Starter smoking because it can't push the fuel out. Remove spark plug, crank once and fuel will spew out of cylinder. If needle valve and seat aren't fixed it will happen again and again.
Happened to me till finally figured out.
good vid, good job
Have you run it before changing the needle and seat ? I thought mine had a blown head gasket because, a lot of oil and smoke was coming out of the muffler. When I removed the head, oil and gas poured out from the cylinder. It seemed like the gas liquified the oil and pass through the rings thus, smoking like hell.
Could you tell me if the float top and bottom of carburetor body are parallel with the new needle and seat installation ???? Thanks
good video
good video thanks
good vid
Very good.
I have this question the solenoid and the carb look like any normal set up so hypothetically could the solenoid be bypassed with a bolt and some type of gasket washer will like to know what you think on my question
Thank you in advance
You forgot to change the oil! Otherwise, a great video. Thanks
Very good...
How do you recommend adjusting the fuel air mixture?
Have a B & S pressure washer, like new. Worked for about two hours today, and as I put fresh gas in it it started leaking at the carb. It has a on and off switch and when I turn it off the gas quit leaking.....what does this sound like to you? Carb or a flow problem?
I had a tiller come into my shop with this problem. Couldn't pull it over. Engine was seized. I took the plug out and when I pulled it over gas shot out of the plug hole and hit me in the face. A lot of gas!! Crank case was full of gas too. Had to completely drain the crankcase and get all the gas out. Replaced the needle and seat and it's good to go. What a pain in the ass!!!
Good video, can't beat a Briggs . If they get gas and they get fire......their gonna run.
Thanks , helpful
hi Ive just brought a brand new Husqvarna ct138, and it won't start. it's turning over ok, but now the battery Is almost flat. very frustrating as it a new mower. I checked the plug and its soaking wet, I dried & clean it. put it back turn it over again, & it still won't start. any help would be greatfull
Very Good...
My nikki carb gas plastic internals and doesn't have the brass seat. Also a plastic needle valve. Is the repair the same?
Hey man, not bad but a 1/4 - 20 tap run down the seat and then a 3/8-1/4"socket on a 1/4-20 bolt with a regular nut will pull that baby out without fear of distorting the aluminum. And I'd really recommend a brass punch to drive it back in.
Can't seem to find a video anywhere on what to do when you accidentally get a bunch of oil in the air filter and carb on a Briggs push mower.. I tried letting it set for days, like I've read, but it's still not starting. The pull cable is now being tough to pull in spots, and at times it's even locked at half pull, yanking the cord out of my hand.
I know I could probably flush the carb out with cleaner or something, but I don't think that will help the problem with it being tough to turn over.
I just got an old mid 90's craftsman tractor with the same exact motor. Wasn't running when I got it, thought it was the carb, ordered new carb, still wasn't firing, would act like it wanted to fire, but wouldn't. Pulled the cover, and realized the timing gap on the coil WAY off (coil was actually rubbing against the fly wheel). I set the gap to .020 and she fired right up! Went to mow, and it died after a couple of minutes SMH. Come to find out, the previous owner had put a non breather gas cap on it, and it was drawing a vacuum in the gad tank and preventing fuel from getting to the carb LOL. So basically I don't think I actially even needed the new carb....oh well!
I fitted a fuel solenoid which acts as a automatic on off. Even with a good needle valve and seat these can still be prone to flooding especially if you have a full tank of fuel..
I hate these new carburetors.
Thanks. First time taking apart this kinda carb.
Just like in the movies, I have a nikki carb so a little different, but having not touched a small engine for over 40 yr's this helped to make the job easy. ETHANOL is the problem.
sdfgsl The float on the Nikki carb can actually bend right where the needle attaches, so make sure the plastic float is level when holding the carb up side down. If it is not level heat up the area where the needle attaches and bend it.
Thanks for your video....
I bought my mower from a neighbor. He wasn't using it because it keep eating batteries and wouldn't start.
I tested the battery and found it to be dead and not taking a charge. So I bought a new battery. After installing it I tried starting the mower. The engine wouldn't turn over so I pulled the spark plug and gas poured out, then I turned it over without a spark plug, the engine spun and gas shot out. I found and watched your video after doing some web searching. I replaced the needle & seat, and replaced the engine oil and now the mower starts and runs.
I still have a small problem. under no load the engine starts and runs at a high idle, the throttle makes no difference. However under load: ie pto engaged and mowing the lawn, the idle comes down and it responds correctly to throttle input. disengaging the pto the throttle no longer seems to have an impact and returns to high idle.
Any Ideas?????
Thanks Wayne
By the way I tried using the drywall screw to remove the seat and the screw snapped off down in the hole. I then tried a tap, (i think 1/4 x 20). the seat taped easily until I hit either the bottom of the hole or the broken screw. Then the seat turned and came right out. way easier then the screw approach.....
You have a quicker fix for this problem right there already installed. At the end of each mowing, turn off the fuel at the valve before the filter. At this point your solenoid and your needle and seat may both leak due too time and age, BUT if you turn off that gas valve then neither can leak. Most of these mowers have their gas tanks higher than the carb which is normal for a gravity feed motor. When its time to mow or drive the mower, turn on the gas valve and fire it up!
Gary Thompson .......Every time I finish mowing I shut the valve and run it till it dies.........then shut the key off.
True but fixed isn't fixed. On mine, and if this was mine, I wouldn't be satisfied until the issue is fixed correctly.
NO GARY, You are wrong, even if you turn off the gas the crankcase still gets fuel in it from whats left in the Carb.The best way to stop it is fix it or do as Roger does.
Mine,even with the shut off valve off leaking gas from the tank.
@@slowmo0925 IF you put the old fashioned manual shutoff valve in the fuel line between the tank and the carb and it is still leaking then check 2 things. Did you put the valve in to the fuel line correctly and maybe you purchased a defective little shutoff valve.
I have a 140cc briggs and stratton that was spewing gas out of the carb, the owner stood it upright, but i repladed the carb new thinking that the float and seat might be worn and it still does the same. what could be?
thanks, this happened to my craftsman
Man I wish you were my mechanic!
Excellent job , can you tell me more information about this carburetor (part number, type,model) i must order spare parts and i need information.Thank you.
How quickly will it ruin the motor? My mower sounded pretty awful then found out it was filled with gas. Slick 50 help it come back?
What about the (third) thin, spring linkage around the throttle linkage, where does it go? Do you pressure/vacuum test the needle and seat after its reassembled and before you even start? Great video.
I see this question is from 1 year ago, but I offer this answer. In the video after he puts the carburetor back on the engine. He doesn't comment that he put the spring back in place, but I could see it was attached again. And one other thing about this carburetor issue. I have a Honda walk behind self propelled model that has a fuel shut off valve that I don't turn off. I bought it back in 2012. I have always bought non-ethanol fuel and treated that fuel with Stabil . It has always started on the first pull. I believe those two items have contributed to the integrity of the carburetor the most. The other being from the manufacturer engineers who designed it.
Have the same problem. Just installed an inline fuel cut off valve right ahead of the carburetor.
I had that problem. I replaced needle and seat and dust deals. No more gas leaking through into the crankcase and muffler. Assembled, and no fuel to the cylinder. Carb fills with gas, but no start. Fired up with starting fluid, so everything else is OK. Disassembled carb, checked everything, blew out all the passages with air, reassembled, installed and still no start. What did I miss? Carb was as clean as a dinner plate internally.
See comment from yogirlmarmar. This problem with the seat may masquerade as a starter problem. The hard starting is caused by hydro lock from too much gas in the cylinder. It also may cause sudden excessive smoking. The hydro lock starting problem can be determined by removing the spark plug. If gas comes pouring out, it is a carburetor issue and not a starter issue. Too much gas getting into cylinder. gas
Thx fer the tip.
How to know that needle is bad? Gas runs in the engine crankcase? Or it runs poor? What are symptoms if this? Can't find a problem, my b&s runs strange.
What do you do when you have a plastic seat.... Is a plastic seat replaceable?
I had same problem with my murray, engine was hard to turn over new battery also the engine would turn about half a full circle gas in oil drained oil full of gas put new oil in started right up so, over night next day boom same problem checked battery it was good checked oil and once again gas was in oil went on RUclips type in the problem and its very common issue thanks for the video anyone else have engine not turn over full circle like to much compression engine locked up
Before you do any of that Taking the carburetor apart One simple thing you can check your fuel cap if your fuel cap is plugged pressure will build up in the gas tank and has nowhere to go but through the carburetor Sears craftsman an MTD are notorious for this A simple fixes replace gas cap or put a shut off on the fuel line
Recently got the mower, but, the rubber gasket on the fuel tank rotted & fell into the tank, so I got a new one.
Oops, Now it flooded.
Guess I need toake sure the hole is open in the new cap (2/$10) lol, probably not the best cap.
Hey doublewide awesome job on that carb. I've got one for ya. Gas going into my crankcase on a briggs 21hp . New carb, new fuel selenoid, new headgasket. Engine runs great till it over fills with gas the it goes to smoking. I am out of ideas.
24HP here I believe my fuel pump has a ruptured diaphragm, I got it to fire up and fuel was squirting out of the oil fill tube within minutes.
Did you figure this out? I'm having same issue with a 14.5
Thank you, this was exactly what I was looking for... was having the damnedest time trying to figure out how to remove that seat.
check the "Viton" part of the needle - I noticed on the one I am working on ( slow flooding ) that the Viton seat is not setting flat on the needle - it seems to be separating on one side - so the Viton is not straight with the needle itself ( canted ) I hope this is the problem, and then I am going to "polish" the brass seat with some kind of mild abrasive ( tooth paste ?) and use a Q-tip in a drill /dremel tool.
good video, I am a certified briggs and generac generator teck. I get on you tube n watch videos sometimes to get laughs. I liked your video nice n to the point n sounds like ya know what u doin!! Good job brother, a lot o videos are all over n forget steps n make me laugh.
Good video. my widow neighbor just had same problem with her 19.5 hp Sears mower, the needle valve did not seat off and filled the crankcase with gas which caused the engine to throw a rod. Talked to lawn mower mechanic, he said this is a common problem with this Briggs engine which comes in many different H.P....
I have the 20 hp intek in a husqvarna tractor. It wasn't staying running so I cleaned the carb, but now it's flooding the cylinder. Is it likely the float needle, or could it be one of the two tiny o rings?
Probably the float and needle. Get a new carb on Ebay for around $16.
My governor came off when putting it back together. What do I hook it to?? Help 😊
I just got a ariens lawnmower used from my wife ex father in law says something about oil putting out and stuff i got it bought new battery solenoid blades belt spark plug oil oil filter fuel filter fuel shut off valve and did like a tune up change all thats stuff but was hard to start at the beginning but i notice alot of gas was getting on the air filter like putting out of it and i manage to started ride it for about 5 minutes then gas run out and die went to buy more gas and never start back up took oil out was fill with gas drain it put new oil on it filter charge the battery and try to spray it with starting fluid doesn't even make a sound to start
Have mtd almost like that at friggin shop now for that flooding problem
Hi, I have a 13.5 Briggs and Stratton mower. it works for about 45 minutes then it turns off. it would start back up immidiately and run for a bit and turn off again and on and on. It also seem to loose power. Would replacing the seat and needle resolve that problem?
+norman downs Your gas cap vent is probably plugged. Blow some air through it to clear it out and you should be good to go.
thanh you
john bergantzel Your welcome.
Great video.
Had this problem with new carburetor haven't found the problem yet?
Have you ever heard of a low pressure come though your area and pressure your gas tank to squeeze the tank and increasing fuel line pressure lifting the fixed jet needle off of the seat
my case was on a gas power washer, I was power washing my deck and all of a sudden it stalled. I went to restart it and the cord wouldn't pull out like it locked up. I toke the pull cord off and the wheel wouldn't turn, I took plug out and I did get it to turn again. I put it all back together and now I had gas coming out of the muffler when I was trying to start again ... what you showed here, could this be my problem?
thats what i am dealing with now..... same thing... Troybilt power washer..... 2010.... gas everywhere..... how did it end up for you..... fixed?
Terry Howell sounds like your float may be stuck. May be hydro locking your cylinder. That can damage your engine. A loose needle seat should not allow enough gas to do that. Check to see if your float isn't full of gas
Terry Howell same thing I'm dealing with.
Terry Howell Terry/everyone.
Gas out the the muffler pipe.
Check oil dipstick.Looks real high and feels thinner than oil and smells like gas.
Some current model and older carburetors have a hollow brass float and with time,get pinholes in them and sink in the bowl,causing the needle not to lift and close.
Gas goes directly in to the crankcase.This will vaporlock the engine(no turning) or if it does fire and run,you will have gas coming out the muffler pipe.
If you needle has a black tip,you have a brass seat.
If you have an all metal needle,there is a replaceable rubber seat insert.
Metal float? Shake it. You shouldn't feel gas sloshing in there.
Plastic floats rarely leak.
Check anyway.
Black rubber tips?
A one second squirt of Deep Creep by Sea foam in every tank of gas tends to neutralize the ethanol problems with rubber parts.
20 year old Briggs and all original carburetor parts.
Half green acre lot.
I had this problem on my fairly new Kawasaki engined tractor with Walbro carb. I spotted it when engine wouldnt start due to hydrolocking. The Ait intake was full of fuel as where the cylinders. Couldnt really see a problem with the needle valve but replaced anyway. But introduced a fuel shut off valve to stop this happening again. These carbs are pretty poor quality in my opinion..
2:22 solenoid? my John Deere L130 has always backfired when turning off hot, does its carb need something done? thanks for this!!
You mention that an engine filled with gas, even into the oil chamber......
This happened to my Briggs generator.
Do I have to take the engine completely apart and rebuilt it.....or do I let the gas, dry out of the engine and everything should start working again?
Unless you've ran it will diluted oil and blew it up, then no. Fuel system cleaning, complete carb rebuild, oil change and most likely air filter. If foam air filter clean and re-oil.
Okay, so I'm stuck on pulling the seat out. I was trying not to use too much force because I didn't want to break anything. When I put the screw in, and start yanking on it, the screw bends. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
new needle has no spring?
Are the eBay carbys any good?
Thanks for making this video. I have this exact problem. Also, fuel is filling the cylinder.
I have the same problem... fuel in head & Oil how can I get all the fuel out of the head? I know I will have to change the oil a few times to get it out of the crankcase. Did you have to replace the valve & set in the carb?
+Kevin Krucek As well as changing the oil, I took the spark plug out and gave the engine a few turns to clear the fuel from the cylinder. About two turns and it was empty.
Put the plug back in and it started and ran no problem.
Install an inline fuel shutoff. I had one flooding with gas after sitting and I did that and it stopped. Shut the gas off after cutting grass and run till it burns up whats in the carb and you wont have problems with carbs gunking up either.
I need a vacuum line for mine? Its the one he points at 1:17. Where can I get it? What is the part number?
part# 697113 www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Briggs-Stratton-794683-Breather-Tube-Replaces-697113-OEM/221994005106?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3D35f82c2409134f7c8b77920c1b77e132%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D192198362572
On this same motor, I just had the starter and battery replaced and then had this problem with the gas leaking everywhere. Had a friend trying to crank it later and the starter started smoking. He did this several times. Can you tell me how to check if the starter is still good before I do all this? I'm not paying them to fix it again. Would rather sell it as is. But would like to try this first.
Roxanne Weeks If the starter cranks it is good. The engine should start in less than 3 seconds of cranking if all is well. Hard starting can be related to the valves. You can watch my video on checking valve clearance on a briggs engine.
doublewide6 Thank you!! I'll be watching it!
When and how do you do a valve job on a flat head valve engine?
When a leakdown test tells you the valves are leaking? Not a compression test...
Fine sand may be making it through the filter and into the float bowl, find its way to the float valve seat and hold it open.. a good clean may save $$.