Thank you for the clear instructional video. After cleaning my carburetor, the lawnmower was running very poorly until I realized I had put the jet in the carburetor the wrong way around. This video saved me.
Just wanted to say thank you for making this video! A fellow redditor sent me your link and I realized I put the jet in backwards, causing all of my problems. Thank you for saving me time and money on more parts!
I worked on a John Deere, with the Briggs engine today. And your video just confirmed what I thought was wrong. I have ordered a repair kit for the carby now. Thanks
@Bradley McGregor It’s a pretty common issue with these carbs. Thank you for taking the time to share your comment! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😊👍
Hey, thanks for mentioning the solenoid. I thought that was just to stop flooding the carb when the motor wasn't running - didn't realize it shuts off fuel to the main jet. That makes more sense, and was the reason for the motor not starting. Cheers!
Hello again Mr. BaldEagle! First of all, I would just like to thank you again as everything you taught about the Nikki rebuild was right on point, it only went bad again because I kept taking it back apart. But with the help of GOD, I finally figured out why there was no gas getting over to the piston well. I went back out this morning trying to start the mower again, but still nothing. So I went ahead & disconnected the kill wire like you suggested, but still nothing. Well I was reminded that I had messed with the rockers and even checked the push rods before I did the carb rebuild. Well the voice that I heard today told me to go back and check the rockers and push rods again, and when I did, I discovered that the intake valve wasn't opening because I didn't put the push rod back in like it was supposed to be. Well it was then that I remembered that if the intake valve doesn't open, then no gas will get to the piston well. So, after resetting the push rod, and readjusting the rockers, that baby started purring like a kitten! So again, thank you very much for all of your help! GOD bless you and your family! Have a blessed weekend!
That’s fantastic news! I’m glad it all worked out in the end. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience. I hope to see you around on future videos.
The gas leak test is always useful. I typically have a jig set up on my bench with a small raised gas tank, hose and valve that I attach to the carb while off the engine. In your case, your carb is GRAVITY fed. If there is a fuel pump, gas will not flow to the carb since the engine is off. So many details to remember, so thank you sir. -- North Central Florida -- 10.1.2023
Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment. Here’s a link to the rest of the story on this carb. I generally go about it in a little different way that I show in this video. ruclips.net/video/8VxTRqJZi0Q/видео.htmlsi=HPEL68_r2Ig5e3Iw
I rebuilt one of these watching other videos, but couldn't get it to work. Your clear and detailed presentation showed me what I did wrong and I'm running again 😁
+@jackhager3099 Thats awesome. Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
I have the exact same Craftsman YTS3000 that I bought new from Sears in 2010. Mine got hydrolocked too and I ended up replacing the carb about 5 years ago. We'll now it's surging so not sure if I'll just get another new carb or rebuild kit. Amazon Carbs are just a little more $$ vs a rebuild kit. Thanks to videos like this I have kept that mower mowing my 2 acre lot for 14 years! I have also had to replace the spindles. Drain/replace the transmission fluid. Repair the deck with welding and repaint to protect from further rusting. New tires. New high back seat. Replace the blade cable. Repair wiring harness from rats eating it up!
Thank you, Henry. That means a lot to me. My father was a mechanic his entire life, and he always said most “mechanics are nothing more than parts replaces. He said, “what sets a true mechanic apart is the ability to figure out how something works and rebuild it.” Thanks for watching, my friend. I truly value your support. 🦅🇺🇸
6:56 and main jet dropped down the tube. I initially found some other videos where its inserted from the other end of the tube. Those didn't work for me, but this did! Should have taken more note of where mine was when I took it apart! Saw your vid and that specific bit. Now I have an engine that runs. Many thanks!
Excellent video on that Nikki carb. When I purchased my riding mower from my neighbor, he hadn't run it for 3 years and left it full of fuel. The fuel lines were rotten from the tank to the carb. After a little bit of silicone fuel line replacement (that was fun) and a carb clean, it's been running great for 3 seasons now. I for one don't mind this carb, as it's easy to work on. I also added a fuel filter and fuel shut off just for added security just incase an O-ring goes bad.
They aren't that bad of carb, but they are prone to leak once they get a little age on them. The fuel shut-off is a brilliant idea. I will usually shut them off as I'm driving into my garage and leave them off till I need them again. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching. 🦅🇺🇸
You're one of the very few folks that show doing a "wet" test on the carb. Good on ya for that as that's very important step after messing with the float. Cheers.
Thanks a lot the video on this carburetor was great and I got to say it's nice to see a video that doesn't mess around with a bunch of talk and wasted time on one little thing you get down to it. Its cut and dry. I don't have time to listen to all the garbage that everybody else has to talk about sometimes you're in a hurry I don't have time to listen to all the BS. It's refreshing to see one that just gets to the point. Your videos are excellent great close-ups with attention to detail. I subscribed and will be using you a bunch thanks a lot for your good help. Mike
Good job! I've found that little o-ring that seals the gas inlet to be more of the culprit that floods the crankcase with gas than the needle. You however did a great job for people to follow.
PERFECT VIDEO! This carb is something I have never seen before. You make it all easily done for dummies like me. Great brief editing and no BS excuses and lifestyle interruptions like other vids I've viewed. Thanks so much!!!!
@@baldeagle242I can’t seam to get the it to suck up the seal looks like it not fitting I tried numerous times .. I did put it over plastic fuel inlet like you did but no go
I watched a few of your videos and for what it's worth I am a very skilled person when it comes to this kind of stuff however I had been stumped on my mower and you were awesome with the step by step walkthrough of these issues thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with me it got me up and running A+++
I know this vid has been out for awhile but THANK YOU! I have lot of experience on older mowers and small engines but these new plastic carbs are just a little different. The 21hp I am having trouble with was brought to me by my brother and it was not running right to start with. I rempved the carb and it was nasty. Cleaned and put back on. So many problems. I stumble on your channel in search and you have a new subscriber!😄 my problem is that someone else has been in this carb and left out the "main jet". Also solenoid is BAD😂 but I found that earlier. New to me carb so did not know what to look for. New kit on order and now I have knowledge power and know what to look for.😁 Again, Thank You sooo much!!!👍😁😁😁
@Tim Wagster Thank you for sharing your comment! Your feedback means the world to us. It's incredibly uplifting to hear from viewers who have discovered solutions through our videos and share their own experiences. We genuinely hope to see you around in the future as well. youtube.com/@baldeagle242 Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
Great video. I couldn’t remember which way that jet goes on the plastic and your video was very helpful. Unfortunately the OEM kit I bought from Amazon was missing the o-ring gasket for that jet. Luckily I was able to use a 3mm/1mm o-ring.
+@NotSure13 Thank you for sharing your comment! We hope to see you around in the future as well. youtube.com/@baldeagle242 Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
Great video. When putting my carb back together i placed the main nozzle upside down and couldn't figure out why the air/fuel was so rich the engine was smoking black. With your video i found out the oring on main nozzle goes into plastic not to the metal tube. Thanks milion times.
I had one time the fuel solenoid backfire was stuck down and then I found that I had gas in my oil and The same thing happened to my neighbor's tractor too so we both added fuel shut off valves and haven't had a problem since.
This is a very common issue with these carbs. Here’s a link to the rest of the story on this mower. ruclips.net/video/8VxTRqJZi0Q/видео.htmlsi=AF4MjZ2-OqR53Oxl
WOW, I needed that! Neighbor has a older Toro with B and S 17.5 HP engine. He started it up from the winter, white smoke and ran like crap. Could be head gasket I suppose, I pulled the carb (NIKKI) and it was FULL of rust and crap. I cleaned it up, but the little piece you mentioned that goes in, rubber O ring first. That was on the bench, not having a clue where it went. The O ring you mentioned possibly needed to scrape out, that's where I put it. DAHHHHH, it flooded like crazy! After watching your video, I put it in the plastic tube, rubber first. AHHHHH Haaaah! Will put it back in soon to see if it now runs. I sure hope the smoke was from moisture in carb as well. Thank you for taking the time to help us guys out! Damn, I hope this is the fix!!
Fingers crossed for you! Let us know how it works out. I’d also check the oil to make sure it’s not over full. When the carb fails it will let whatever is in the fuel tank run down into the engine.
@@baldeagle242 I did check the oil prior. The level was on the mark. After putting the piece where it should have been, I tried again. Before I tried I pulled the plug and cranked the engine. Fuel, OMG, lots of fuel came out. Once that fuel stopped, I put the plug back in. It started right up but white smoke again. It ran for a minute but seemed to flood itself. I pulled the plug again, cranked over the engine, fuel fuel fuel. Sooo, I am still thinking it is the carb, but why the white smoke? I am going to order a kit. I recall you saying if the O rings are worn fuel can get past them causing flooding. I am certainly no mechanic, I am learning by videos provided by you and others. So very greatfull. I also am considering taking an online small engine course, any suggestions?? Again, thank you sir
@@davidpatterson5728 If you have the tools and basic mechanical knowledge I recommend rebuilding the original factory carb. The original will be jetted and tuned for your engine. After market carbs are a decent second choice but they are tuned to work with a wide range of engines. Generally they run on the rich (to much fuel) side. They work, I’ve used many of them myself but there are lemons now and then.
+@nandunandu5097 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
At 2:30 in this video, removing the plastic jet stop cap, mine didn't come off easy as demonstrated in this video. Trying to follow what I saw in this video by just pulling it off with pliers didn't work. Mine just wouldn't come off but I thought it was supposed to come off easy as shown in this video. Pulling on it broke the needle valve at the very narrow part which is in the middle of the needle valve. After breaking it, I had to first grind a flat spot on the piece left in the carb to drill a hole. I had to be very careful not to widen the hole messing up the threads. I then had to insert a screw extractor and after a while, I was able to screw it out. I would suggest heating a flat blade screwdriver to cut the plastic stop cap so it can be removed without breaking the needle valve destroying the carb or causing you a lot of extra work. Otherwise, very informative video. Thanks.
I just fixed a nikki carb using your video, I ordered the chinese carb kit fromthe link you had. i only used the two small gaskets, one was the one you used a flat tool to roll onto, and the other one i used on the main jet. I hope thats what the two small o rings were for. I can't test the carb until tomorrow! Thanks for the video!!
+@bobbym77tx Thanks for watching! Hopefully you’ll find other videos I’ve posted interesting or useful. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Well thanks! I'm really just needing the mower to work but will rebuild this carb if needed also. This one here is a John Deere with Briggs 19hp and the Nikki carb just like the one in your video, one difference is this one has some type of fuel (vent or regulator?) that's connected inline with a vacuum tube, that goes to vent.
i had a carb like this w a flooding issue due to the choke valve a little loose w no scews to hold it tight in the shaft would wedge in housing on full choke so spring could not open valve. adjusted cable w very small gap [.035] w black lever held against stop on full choke . you can also modify choke stop black lever to prevent wedging of valve on full choke.
I have this tractor with the 21hp B&S platinum engine. The china made kit's jet has to be used, as the o-ring wasn't thick enough to be used with the old jet. The kit's jet also has to be reamed out with a very small drill bit, to match the size of the old jet, or the engine will only run on full choke. The new float also sat too high. If you keep the old parts and mix and match, and make alterations, the kit can work. But this is not a simple plug and play replacement IMO.
Haven't had too much experience with the Nikki's. Mostly tinker with push mowers and Walbro's etc. That's a great video full of precise instructions for my next Nikki rebuild. Thanks Steve looking forward to more in 2022. 🙂🚜🐻 Bear Queensland Oztralia 👍
Thanks, Greg. I'm trying to find the right balance between the information presented, length of the video, and how viewers react to the quicker pace. I feel like I need to go into more detail than I do but it would be a 30-40 minute video if I left in everything i’d like to say. I'm curious to see how this video does. Thanks for watching my friend. 🦅🇺🇸
@@baldeagle242 i am happy to watch both long and shorter videos. Some of the videos i enjoy are over an hour long. Example Mustie1. I don't get bored with long videos, the content keeps my interest. Your content is enjoyable long or short as your explanation keeps me glued to my screen. 🙂🚜🐻
Great job on showing that rebuild on the Nikki. I’ve personally not been a big fan of them because they can be a bit finicky, but clearly that can be remedied with a good set of gaskets. Thank you for the great info and video 💪🇺🇸
I agree with that 100%. The main problem with the OEM Briggs parts is they don't come in a complete kit. I could only find the individual components and the o-ring for the jet came with a new jet from Briggs. $15, and I didn't need the jet, just the o-ring. Thanks for watching Roger. I appreciate your support. 🦅🇺🇸
That O-ring on the teeny-tiny main jet seems huge compared to mine, and I think therein lies my problem. .. well, one of. I know the jet fell out when I removed the bowl. But it's held in place at least by the plunger on the solenoid. I narrowed my no-start problem down to the solenoid -- it wasn't, or didn't seem to be retracting when I switched on, to allow fuel in. Well, a new one (cheapo Chinese £15) doesn't work other than you can see it vibrating a tiny bit. So, wanting to dispense with using a solenoid, I cut off the top that closes on the main jet. No start. So I remove the solenoid, and the main jet falls right out of the hole in the bowl!! Although the carb looked quite clean I ultrasounded it for 20m at 50° in Oregon cleaner, so I was surprised the O-ring was really not poking out proud enough like your one. Do you have the dimensions of it or a reference (I don't want the whole kit) or know a way of bulking it out again? I know putting them in boiling water shrinks them so would freezing them do the opposite? MANY THANKS!
thank you my man you have no Idea how many people on here do a carb without ever doing one again and then folks are left dumb founded because they dont have a clue as to what they are doing and are just out for the money no 16 on the parts chart the little itty bitty jet no other video had a clue or even had it on their video, so again thank you ... subscribed !!!
Thanks, Taylor. I received the notification for your Husqvarna Chainsaw video earlier but haven't had a chance to watch it yet. I'll have to watch it at some point tomorrow.
You gained a subscriber! My 21 horse that i swapped into my 96 craftsman LT1000 has this same issue that i've been battlin since i did the swap, with the extra fuel inside the intake, sometimes it overrevs and scares me half to death. Thanks gor the video!
Great video, when I took mine apart that tiny jet fell out,I didn’t see where it came from,put it in the wrong hole,did not run at all! I’m going back out to put in the proper hole right now…… THANKYOU for the awesome video,great job! 😊
I get a lot of comments on this. I just made this video specifically to show where that jet goes. ruclips.net/video/g9SRvDaKgNE/видео.htmlsi=lSBaexL-qtD2khYg
Ok,started,ran great for 3 minutes and started spluttering and quit,restarted and running setting in the driveway,let er run till it doesn’t,looks like a new carb in the near future! Thanx again
+@user-jj1bs2lc4t Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Damn good video, sir. No distracting bs music in the background....detailed and precise instructions from start to finish. Great video quality. Had thought about getting one of those cheap China carbs, but decided it would be better to rebuild the OEM one. Btw.....the B&S carb kit was about $15 cheaper than the John Deere one, same exact kit too. Thanks!
+@lawsonstallings1955 Thank you and, thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Thanks, Kyle. They require a little extra TLC but perform well once everything is sealed and functioning correctly. I appreciate your support my friend. 🦅🇺🇸
Great video. This was exactly what I needed. Thanks for the info and how to. I had ordered an aftermarket one, but I'm just gonna rebuild my factory one and hold on to the other. I'd much rather have OEM than Chinese
It's usually better to fix the OEM carb. Depending on engine size, there are different jets, and the Chinese carbs are built with a one size fits all mentality. You can generally get them to work, but they will not be as tuned for your particular engine as the OEM. Thanks for watching, and good luck with it. Let us know how it turns out. 🦅🇺🇸
I have checked all the valves and can't see anything out the ordinary, I opened the motor and checked the timing and only thing I can see is that the timing mark is not quite punched on the centre of the notch , I am thinking it is out a tooth ???
was the main jet on the table when you put the bowl on ( 9:29 time marker) I didn't see you install that. does it sit flush in that white tube or on top with the rubber O-ring in the white tube.
Great video, I have the same carb, had it out, clean it, but my want start, dosent give fuel to the spark plug, it`s dry. Been standing 3 years with old fuel in it.
I need help. On the back of the carb there is an elbow, attached to the elbow is a hose. You can see at 0:37 there is something in the hose but at 11:00 its gone. I noticed this happened to me while doing this and now I cant find it. Was wondering what the parts are called. Cant seem to find them anywhere
It will keep fuel from sucking into the engine and backfiring out the muffler. It’s rare to see an actual backfire out the carb but it’s not uncommon to see a puff of smoke with the air cleaner removed. This is normal and no cause for concern.
+Terry Vogel Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Have you had one of these Briggs Inteks that take 20-45 seconds to warm up? I have a 20 hp, 540 cc Intek, rebuilt the carb w/ the Briggs kit and it runs great only weird thing is the motor is slow to warm up. Starts instantly on choke and when I move it off choke it takes 20-45 seconds. Also adjusted the valves to the specs
Very useful video, thanks. I've got the engine running again (Briggs 13.5 HP OHV) on my ALKO ride on mower but I've noticed some dripping from the breather pipe next to the intake manifold. I've replaced the float needle in case the carb was flooding although it didn't seem to have a rubber seat for the needle and I still have a dripping from the breather pipe. Any suggestions on what to check next?
If you’d like to fix it for good I’d recommend changing it over to a Walbro style carb. Simple Upgrade: Switch from Nikki to Walbro Style Carburetor! ruclips.net/video/ZVbOFzW0inM/видео.html
I have a troy built bronco 2017 it has a nikki 5the on plastic in the bowl is the float i got new gaskets and could only use 2 of the gaskets fit but i cant find the right gaskets for the bowl an silanoildany suggestion
@@kdcarver here’s a playlist with all of the mowers I’ve recorded videos on with a Nikki carb. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpbPG_TA7E8TDh-9PVRx7_xb&si=lXt2aprEq90BdYzY
I have a craftsman snowblower that is leaking buy. I purchased the rebuild kit but need the needle o ring that dosen't come with it. Do you have the part number for it? Thanks
Got a rebuild kit. Dropped in the main jet with the o ring on it, 1) it didn't hold the jet in like in the video and 2) I couldn't get the whole plastic set up to seat against the carb. If I took the o ring off it dropped into place and felt better. You ever not use the o ring?
Hi I have a YT3000 .When I try to go to full throttle,it constantly accelerates and decelerates,it does not stay at full throttle. What could be happening? Thank for your help. I am for Puerto Rico.
I have two videos that may help. The first one should point you in the right direction. ruclips.net/video/-uzKSJhJtww/видео.html The second video is on a different engine and carb but is something to check on any surging engine ruclips.net/video/QtCAehETLBE/видео.html
If it's not a Nikki, it's probably a Walbro. I don't have a video on that carb but if you search for “Walbro carb rebuild” you'll probably find what you need.
I have an older John Deere with no solenoid from carb. There is a plug of some sort and must of came out. I’m trying a 3/8 fine bolt fits but still leaks . Can one use lock tight to seal or could I put in a solenoid to just seal it and grind off the point of it ? Any info would be great
Question for you. I purchased a carb rebuild kit. I only replaced those 2 particular Orings & gaskets. So, I'm reusing the same round white plastic piece & float. I cannot get the round piece back on flush to the carb. I took the jet & round gasket back out & still can't get it on there flush. Using all the original parts except for the 2 Orings & gasket. Seems like the long brass thing is where it's teetering on. Does it need pressed on? Suggestions?
No! You do not want to press anything… if it doesn’t go together with very minimal force something is not lined up properly. Your question was one of the reasons I made this video on a mower I’m working on today. This video shows more details than the previous on how everything goes together. 👇 ruclips.net/video/g9SRvDaKgNE/видео.htmlsi=7G7zKY4Uh81jBIDq
just replaced carb with a aftermarket 2 barrel on 24hp twin flooding and fouling my plugs bad only adjustment seams to be a idle screw will start and run for 25-35 seconds before flooding out pinch off gas hose and wait will start but same thing thinking of rebuilding the old carb?????
What is that solenoid thing called on the carburetor called..? mine won't start and it doesn't move. Im thinking if i knew the part i could order it.. It's on my 382cc troybuilt rider 32"
It’s a fuel solenoid. I’m not sure which carb is on that mower but there are a few different ones. You could be able to compare yours to the ones on Amazon and find the correct one by looking at the pictures. amzn.to/3ASi0nj
The kit I list in the video description comes with both. Unless your original main jet is lost or damaged I recommend reusing your original main jet and only replacing the o-ring. The main jets in some of these kits are a one size fits all and not always the same hole size as your original.
The first thing to check is your idle adjustment screw. Back it out and see if that solves your problem. Check to ensure the throttle plate closes when you adjust the throttle down. If you still have the original carb, I would pull the main jet out of it, make sure it's clean, and use it to replace the main jet in your aftermarket carb. While the aftermarket carbs do work, they are designed as a one size fits all, and they are never as good as the original carb that's specific to your engine. It would help if you also make sure that no air leaks are allowing excessive are to be sucked in around the carb. Not to oversimplify it, but an engine can only rev high if it's getting enough air to do so. Hopefully, this will point you in the right direction. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Hi, I couldn't get my old Nikki to work, it would run for 3 to 8 mins. and die and would not start again for about 10 mins., so I got a replacement carb and it runs great until it hits the grass, then it starts spit and sputters like it is going to stall, I have to keep stopping to let the engine rev back up. What could be the problem?
I got a Nikki carburetor on my bridge Fannin somebody Chrysler that you'll mixtures Jack not the idling jet the fuel mixture Jack and I don't know how I can get it to go in the street is there any ideas how you can do that
+@scottjamable Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
I didnt see where the main jet went to although Ive always dropped it down in the pick up tube.Ive seen some place it on the top not dropping it down in there .where do you place it?
A decent video. One of the better ones on Nikki carbs. Not happy with the advice to pull the idle mixture limiter cap off with a pair of pliers. I tried that and the mixture screw broke in half. Luckily, there was enough sticking out to grab and twist out with needle nose pliers. Got my Dremel out and cut a slot for a flat screwdriver for the time being until I can get a new mixture screw. Those screws are designed to break if you yank on the cap. Better to cut or split them off from the side, not putting any force on the screw itself. I noticed a gap in the video at 2:38, between you pulling on the cap and throwing it in the trash. Maybe the same thing didn't happen to you? I did find out I put the main jet in wrong, had it in the emulsion tube first try. Just seemed like that is where it came from when I first disassembled the carb.
@user-mn8ii1gd8b Thank you for your valuable comment and feedback. I appreciate the time you took to share your thoughts. While I understand that such situations can occur, I have personally not encountered them myself. One feature that I believe would be beneficial is the ability to add text or a post-recorded overlay to videos on RUclips, allowing users to insert warning messages or brief videos to inform others about potential issues. In light of your feedback, I will include a warning in the video description to alert viewers about the possibility of such occurrences. I also recommend being cautious when removing the cap by pulling it straight off without twisting or pushing it side to side. Once again, I am grateful for your input, and I look forward to having you join me in future videos.
@@baldeagle242I have around 500 goats on 600 acres, I use deer feeders to feed them once a day I switch batteries every 6 months and I use the old ones at shop Have 3 male LGDs and 4 females Puppy sales are great 👍
Any idea why a brand new carb would cause the engine to surge? I've taken it apart to insure all the jets are open and O rings are in place and working properly. I've also tested the fuel pump, checked for vacuum leaks, and tried adjusting the mixture. Nothing seems to have any affect. It surges at both high and low speeds. My only thought is to scrap the carb and get another new one. The old carb wasn't surging. It began when I installed this new one. Briggs Stratton Intek 17hp with Nikki carb.
More than likely you have an air leak or the new jets are two small. I’d confirm there are no air leaks or cracks in the plastic intake. If that check out good I’d drill the main jet about .001” to .002” larger. If that doesn’t work I’d swap the Nikki over to a Chinese Walbro and be done with it. 👇 ruclips.net/video/ZVbOFzW0inM/видео.htmlsi=2cEkbX-IaYDlccrQ
@@baldeagle242 Thanks for your reply. That's where I am with it. I think that I'll cut my losses and order another carb. It's just easier than trying to bore the jets when there's no guarantee it would work. I'll hang on to it as a future project when I have more time. Keep up the good work and thanks again. 👍👍👍
The aftermarket carbs are not the best. I’ve found aluminum flashing and seals that were crushed when they were assembled. Most of them are good usable carbs but quality checks are not factored into the price. I buy around 15-20 of them at a time and almost every time I’ll find at least one with an issue.
I am having a walbro needle and seat problem. If you don't shut the gas off after useing the next day the motor will backfire from flooding which is a needle and seat problem. They want about $20.00 now for a new needle and seat from B.S amazon. Is there anyway to reseat the needle valve seat for these 18hp 31H777-0202 B.S motors? as you can buy another new carb for those prices!
The best way to fix this issue is to replace only the needle and seat. Most of the time the rubber seat is damaged or out of shape from ethanol exposure. A new needle and seat runs about $4.00. amzn.to/3EXYIAy
I got the same issue almost ruined my mower. Beagle do you have a part number for the aftermarket carb in the video. I'm having a hell of a time finding the right one. Don't wanna bother with the rebuild. My mower is torn down and I need to mow so if someone can respond asap I would be in debt to you. Thanks
The only difference will be the main jet. (The small brass piece with rubber O-ring) if the one in your original carb is salvageable I always recommend sticking with the original. You can use the o-ring from the new carb if needed.
Thanks for the video, got a question for ya. I can’t get my mower started. Fuel is getting to the carb, got fire at the plug…cranks but won’t turn over, got any suggestions?
It’s difficult to say without looking at it. First thing I would do is start with new fuel and drain anything that’s in the carb bowl. Will it start if you spray starting fluid directly into the carb?
@@baldeagle242 I’ll check that tomorrow. My plan was to pull the carb this weekend and clean it up. Sorry to bug you with this, I really do appreciate your tome
The solenoid on my carb is not working, would this alone cause the engine to start and run for a second then die? If I rebuild the carb is the solenoid working necessary for the engine to run? Great video btw, thanks.
The solenoid does not necessarily have to work but it does have to be disengaged from the main jet for the engine to run. In other words if the plunger was completely cut off inside the bowl of the carburetor the engine would run without it. However, if the Solenoid failed in the extended state with the plunger out the engine will not get fuel to run. The downside to cutting the tip of the solenoid plunger off is a potential backfire from excessive fuel being sucked through the engine and into the hot muffler. This can be negated by throttling the engine way down to its minimum rpm before shutting the key off.
Enjoyed the video, very well done, well edited !! Very knowledgeable !
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. 😁👍
The detail is greatly appreciated. One of the best repair videos I haver ever seen!
Thank you! I hope to see you around on future videos.
Had taken my carb apart and cleaned. Mower had problems. Watching your video showed me what I did wrong. Thanks for your video and explainations.
Thank you for the clear instructional video. After cleaning my carburetor, the lawnmower was running very poorly until I realized I had put the jet in the carburetor the wrong way around. This video saved me.
You are welcome! Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment.
Just wanted to say thank you for making this video! A fellow redditor sent me your link and I realized I put the jet in backwards, causing all of my problems. Thank you for saving me time and money on more parts!
That’s awesome, thanks for letting me know. I hope to see you around on future videos. 😁👍
I worked on a John Deere, with the Briggs engine today. And your video just confirmed what I thought was wrong. I have ordered a repair kit for the carby now. Thanks
@Bradley McGregor It’s a pretty common issue with these carbs. Thank you for taking the time to share your comment! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😊👍
Hey, thanks for mentioning the solenoid. I thought that was just to stop flooding the carb when the motor wasn't running - didn't realize it shuts off fuel to the main jet. That makes more sense, and was the reason for the motor not starting. Cheers!
Outstanding, all good info without the excessive jabber, one of the best I have ever seen, great work.
Thank you. 😁👍
Hello again Mr. BaldEagle! First of all, I would just like to thank you again as everything you taught about the Nikki rebuild was right on point, it only went bad again because I kept taking it back apart. But with the help of GOD, I finally figured out why there was no gas getting over to the piston well. I went back out this morning trying to start the mower again, but still nothing. So I went ahead & disconnected the kill wire like you suggested, but still nothing. Well I was reminded that I had messed with the rockers and even checked the push rods before I did the carb rebuild. Well the voice that I heard today told me to go back and check the rockers and push rods again, and when I did, I discovered that the intake valve wasn't opening because I didn't put the push rod back in like it was supposed to be. Well it was then that I remembered that if the intake valve doesn't open, then no gas will get to the piston well. So, after resetting the push rod, and readjusting the rockers, that baby started purring like a kitten! So again, thank you very much for all of your help! GOD bless you and your family! Have a blessed weekend!
That’s fantastic news! I’m glad it all worked out in the end. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience. I hope to see you around on future videos.
The gas leak test is always useful.
I typically have a jig set up on my bench
with a small raised gas tank, hose and valve
that I attach to the carb while off the engine.
In your case, your carb is GRAVITY fed.
If there is a fuel pump, gas will not flow
to the carb since the engine is off.
So many details to remember, so thank you sir.
-- North Central Florida
-- 10.1.2023
Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment. Here’s a link to the rest of the story on this carb. I generally go about it in a little different way that I show in this video. ruclips.net/video/8VxTRqJZi0Q/видео.htmlsi=HPEL68_r2Ig5e3Iw
I rebuilt one of these watching other videos, but couldn't get it to work. Your clear and detailed presentation showed me what I did wrong and I'm running again 😁
+@jackhager3099 Thats awesome. Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
I have the exact same Craftsman YTS3000 that I bought new from Sears in 2010. Mine got hydrolocked too and I ended up replacing the carb about 5 years ago. We'll now it's surging so not sure if I'll just get another new carb or rebuild kit. Amazon Carbs are just a little more $$ vs a rebuild kit.
Thanks to videos like this I have kept that mower mowing my 2 acre lot for 14 years! I have also had to replace the spindles. Drain/replace the transmission fluid. Repair the deck with welding and repaint to protect from further rusting. New tires. New high back seat. Replace the blade cable. Repair wiring harness from rats eating it up!
All of that and you’ve still spent less than most people who buy a new one every 4-6 years. 😁👍
Fantastic video Steve you are a mechanic and not a rip out and replace person
Thank you, Henry. That means a lot to me. My father was a mechanic his entire life, and he always said most “mechanics are nothing more than parts replaces. He said, “what sets a true mechanic apart is the ability to figure out how something works and rebuild it.”
Thanks for watching, my friend. I truly value your support. 🦅🇺🇸
6:56 and main jet dropped down the tube. I initially found some other videos where its inserted from the other end of the tube. Those didn't work for me, but this did! Should have taken more note of where mine was when I took it apart! Saw your vid and that specific bit. Now I have an engine that runs. Many thanks!
That’s awesome. I actually made a dedicated short video on this because I had so many comments about it. Thanks for taking the time to comment. 🦅🇺🇸
You are a great instructor, concise and thorough. Thank you for your expertise.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Excellent video on that Nikki carb. When I purchased my riding mower from my neighbor, he hadn't run it for 3 years and left it full of fuel. The fuel lines were rotten from the tank to the carb. After a little bit of silicone fuel line replacement (that was fun) and a carb clean, it's been running great for 3 seasons now. I for one don't mind this carb, as it's easy to work on. I also added a fuel filter and fuel shut off just for added security just incase an O-ring goes bad.
They aren't that bad of carb, but they are prone to leak once they get a little age on them. The fuel shut-off is a brilliant idea. I will usually shut them off as I'm driving into my garage and leave them off till I need them again. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching. 🦅🇺🇸
The close ups are extremely good and I think you did a great job of teaching and showing how to put it together the right way 😊😊😊
Thank you
@Phillip Hall Thank you for taking the time to share your comment! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😊👍
You're one of the very few folks that show doing a "wet" test on the carb. Good on ya for that as that's very important step after messing with the float. Cheers.
Thank you, I have to give my grandpa credit for that. 😁👍
I just hold the carb right side up, & blow into the fuel inlet tube. If it holds, it won’t leak.
Thanks a lot the video on this carburetor was great and I got to say it's nice to see a video that doesn't mess around with a bunch of talk and wasted time on one little thing you get down to it. Its cut and dry. I don't have time to listen to all the garbage that everybody else has to talk about sometimes you're in a hurry I don't have time to listen to all the BS. It's refreshing to see one that just gets to the point. Your videos are excellent great close-ups with attention to detail. I subscribed and will be using you a bunch thanks a lot for your good help. Mike
@@michaelzeni4281 Thank you! If you have any questions just let me know. 😁👍
Good job! I've found that little o-ring that seals the gas inlet to be more of the culprit that floods the crankcase with gas than the needle. You however did a great job for people to follow.
Thanks, Mitch, I appreciate the kind words. Thanks for watching. 🦅🇺🇸
No part #
Dzięki, film pokazuje szczegóły m.in.lokalizacji dysz, w innych filmikach ten istotny szczegół jakoś pomijano. Bardzo pomocny materiał👍🙋🏻
Been looking for some time for details about my carb, you hit them all! Thanks for a great video. 😀
PERFECT VIDEO! This carb is something I have never seen before. You make it all easily done for dummies like me. Great brief editing and no BS excuses and lifestyle interruptions like other vids I've viewed. Thanks so much!!!!
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. 😁👍
@@baldeagle242I can’t seam to get the it to suck up the seal looks like it not fitting I tried numerous times .. I did put it over plastic fuel inlet like you did but no go
@@scottm6188 Sometimes a very thin coat of oil can help it to slide back in.
I watched a few of your videos and for what it's worth I am a very skilled person when it comes to this kind of stuff however I had been stumped on my mower and you were awesome with the step by step walkthrough of these issues thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with me it got me up and running A+++
I appreciate the kind words. Thank you very much. 😁👍
I know this vid has been out for awhile but THANK YOU! I have lot of experience on older mowers and small engines but these new plastic carbs are just a little different. The 21hp I am having trouble with was brought to me by my brother and it was not running right to start with. I rempved the carb and it was nasty. Cleaned and put back on. So many problems.
I stumble on your channel in search and you have a new subscriber!😄 my problem is that someone else has been in this carb and left out the "main jet". Also solenoid is BAD😂 but I found that earlier. New to me carb so did not know what to look for. New kit on order and now I have knowledge power and know what to look for.😁
Again, Thank You sooo much!!!👍😁😁😁
@Tim Wagster Thank you for sharing your comment! Your feedback means the world to us. It's incredibly uplifting to hear from viewers who have discovered solutions through our videos and share their own experiences. We genuinely hope to see you around in the future as well. youtube.com/@baldeagle242
Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
Great video. I couldn’t remember which way that jet goes on the plastic and your video was very helpful. Unfortunately the OEM kit I bought from Amazon was missing the o-ring gasket for that jet. Luckily I was able to use a 3mm/1mm o-ring.
+@NotSure13 Thank you for sharing your comment! We hope to see you around in the future as well. youtube.com/@baldeagle242
Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
Great video.
When putting my carb back together i placed the main nozzle upside down and couldn't figure out why the air/fuel was so rich the engine was smoking black.
With your video i found out the oring on main nozzle goes into plastic not to the metal tube.
Thanks milion times.
Thanks for watching! I’m happy to hear it worked out for you. 😁👍
I had one time the fuel solenoid backfire was stuck down and then I found that I had gas in my oil and The same thing happened to my neighbor's tractor too so we both added fuel shut off valves and haven't had a problem since.
This is a very common issue with these carbs. Here’s a link to the rest of the story on this mower.
ruclips.net/video/8VxTRqJZi0Q/видео.htmlsi=AF4MjZ2-OqR53Oxl
WOW, I needed that! Neighbor has a older Toro with B and S 17.5 HP engine. He started it up from the winter, white smoke and ran like crap. Could be head gasket I suppose, I pulled the carb (NIKKI) and it was FULL of rust and crap. I cleaned it up, but the little piece you mentioned that goes in, rubber O ring first. That was on the bench, not having a clue where it went. The O ring you mentioned possibly needed to scrape out, that's where I put it. DAHHHHH, it flooded like crazy! After watching your video, I put it in the plastic tube, rubber first. AHHHHH Haaaah! Will put it back in soon to see if it now runs. I sure hope the smoke was from moisture in carb as well. Thank you for taking the time to help us guys out! Damn, I hope this is the fix!!
Fingers crossed for you! Let us know how it works out.
I’d also check the oil to make sure it’s not over full. When the carb fails it will let whatever is in the fuel tank run down into the engine.
@@baldeagle242 I did check the oil prior. The level was on the mark. After putting the piece where it should have been, I tried again. Before I tried I pulled the plug and cranked the engine. Fuel, OMG, lots of fuel came out. Once that fuel stopped, I put the plug back in. It started right up but white smoke again. It ran for a minute but seemed to flood itself. I pulled the plug again, cranked over the engine, fuel fuel fuel. Sooo, I am still thinking it is the carb, but why the white smoke? I am going to order a kit. I recall you saying if the O rings are worn fuel can get past them causing flooding. I am certainly no mechanic, I am learning by videos provided by you and others. So very greatfull. I also am considering taking an online small engine course, any suggestions?? Again, thank you sir
@@davidpatterson5728 it sounds like a carburetor issue for sure. A new carb should fix your issue.
@@baldeagle242 WOW, that was quick. New Carb or carb kit? I think I did see NIKKI carbs somewhat reasonably priced
@@davidpatterson5728 If you have the tools and basic mechanical knowledge I recommend rebuilding the original factory carb. The original will be jetted and tuned for your engine. After market carbs are a decent second choice but they are tuned to work with a wide range of engines. Generally they run on the rich (to much fuel) side. They work, I’ve used many of them myself but there are lemons now and then.
Finaly found a Video that had the exact type of Carborator that I do, god bless you Sir!
+@nandunandu5097 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
This was a very good video, very informative and you explained and showed where all the parts go. GREAT JOB!
Thank you. 😁👍
At 2:30 in this video, removing the plastic jet stop cap, mine didn't come off easy as demonstrated in this video. Trying to follow what I saw in this video by just pulling it off with pliers didn't work. Mine just wouldn't come off but I thought it was supposed to come off easy as shown in this video. Pulling on it broke the needle valve at the very narrow part which is in the middle of the needle valve. After breaking it, I had to first grind a flat spot on the piece left in the carb to drill a hole. I had to be very careful not to widen the hole messing up the threads. I then had to insert a screw extractor and after a while, I was able to screw it out. I would suggest heating a flat blade screwdriver to cut the plastic stop cap so it can be removed without breaking the needle valve destroying the carb or causing you a lot of extra work.
Otherwise, very informative video. Thanks.
Wow! I hate to hear that. They can be tight but I’ve been lucky none have ever broken. I’m glad you were able to find a work around and get it fixed.
Very clear and concise no waffling video never seen this type of carb before but if I do I'll have a great reference to help me out.
thank you .
Thanks for watching Edward.
I just fixed a nikki carb using your video, I ordered the chinese carb kit fromthe link you had. i only used the two small gaskets, one was the one you used a flat tool to roll onto, and the other one i used on the main jet. I hope thats what the two small o rings were for. I can't test the carb until tomorrow! Thanks for the video!!
+@bobbym77tx Thanks for watching! Hopefully you’ll find other videos I’ve posted interesting or useful. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
@baldeagle242 I guess I somewhat fixed the carb, it only runs on choke, but doesn't surge anymore.... I guess I need to retrace my steps
@@bobbym77tx If it’s surging you probably have an air leak or something is partially clogging the main jet.
@@baldeagle242 no longer surges, brand new jet and jet o-ring, now it wont run unless its on choke.
Well thanks! I'm really just needing the mower to work but will rebuild this carb if needed also. This one here is a John Deere with Briggs 19hp and the Nikki carb just like the one in your video, one difference is this one has some type of fuel (vent or regulator?) that's connected inline with a vacuum tube, that goes to vent.
i had a carb like this w a flooding issue due to the choke valve a little loose w no scews to hold it tight in the shaft would wedge in housing on full choke so spring could not open valve. adjusted cable w very small gap [.035] w black lever held against stop on full choke . you can also modify choke stop black lever to prevent wedging of valve on full choke.
I have this tractor with the 21hp B&S platinum engine. The china made kit's jet has to be used, as the o-ring wasn't thick enough to be used with the old jet. The kit's jet also has to be reamed out with a very small drill bit, to match the size of the old jet, or the engine will only run on full choke. The new float also sat too high. If you keep the old parts and mix and match, and make alterations, the kit can work. But this is not a simple plug and play replacement IMO.
Haven't had too much experience with the Nikki's. Mostly tinker with push mowers and Walbro's etc. That's a great video full of precise instructions for my next Nikki rebuild. Thanks Steve looking forward to more in 2022. 🙂🚜🐻 Bear Queensland Oztralia 👍
Thanks, Greg. I'm trying to find the right balance between the information presented, length of the video, and how viewers react to the quicker pace. I feel like I need to go into more detail than I do but it would be a 30-40 minute video if I left in everything i’d like to say.
I'm curious to see how this video does. Thanks for watching my friend. 🦅🇺🇸
@@baldeagle242 i am happy to watch both long and shorter videos. Some of the videos i enjoy are over an hour long. Example Mustie1. I don't get bored with long videos, the content keeps my interest. Your content is enjoyable long or short as your explanation keeps me glued to my screen. 🙂🚜🐻
Great job on showing that rebuild on the Nikki. I’ve personally not been a big fan of them because they can be a bit finicky, but clearly that can be remedied with a good set of gaskets. Thank you for the great info and video 💪🇺🇸
Thanks for watching Alex. I appreciate your support. 🦅🇺🇸
Personally, I'd rather have the OEM rebuild kit than a aftermarket chinese carb. Nice job there Baldeagle! 👍🇺🇸
I agree with that 100%. The main problem with the OEM Briggs parts is they don't come in a complete kit. I could only find the individual components and the o-ring for the jet came with a new jet from Briggs. $15, and I didn't need the jet, just the o-ring.
Thanks for watching Roger. I appreciate your support. 🦅🇺🇸
That O-ring on the teeny-tiny main jet seems huge compared to mine, and I think therein lies my problem. .. well, one of. I know the jet fell out when I removed the bowl. But it's held in place at least by the plunger on the solenoid. I narrowed my no-start problem down to the solenoid -- it wasn't, or didn't seem to be retracting when I switched on, to allow fuel in. Well, a new one (cheapo Chinese £15) doesn't work other than you can see it vibrating a tiny bit. So, wanting to dispense with using a solenoid, I cut off the top that closes on the main jet. No start. So I remove the solenoid, and the main jet falls right out of the hole in the bowl!! Although the carb looked quite clean I ultrasounded it for 20m at 50° in Oregon cleaner, so I was surprised the O-ring was really not poking out proud enough like your one. Do you have the dimensions of it or a reference (I don't want the whole kit) or know a way of bulking it out again? I know putting them in boiling water shrinks them so would freezing them do the opposite? MANY THANKS!
Do you know what the size of the jet O-ring is? which is shown at 4:28 of the video?
I do not. It came with the kit and I did not check to see what size it was.
@@baldeagle242 OK.
thank you my man you have no Idea how many people on here do a carb without ever doing one again and then folks are left dumb founded because they dont have a clue as to what they are doing and are just out for the money no 16 on the parts chart the little itty bitty jet no other video had a clue or even had it on their video, so again thank you ... subscribed !!!
You’re welcome. Thank you for subbing! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😁👍
Great video Baldeagle242 ,sounds great
Thanks, Taylor. I received the notification for your Husqvarna Chainsaw video earlier but haven't had a chance to watch it yet. I'll have to watch it at some point tomorrow.
Very good video. You answered questions I had with my carb problems!
Thank you very much!!!
You gained a subscriber! My 21 horse that i swapped into my 96 craftsman LT1000 has this same issue that i've been battlin since i did the swap, with the extra fuel inside the intake, sometimes it overrevs and scares me half to death. Thanks gor the video!
@The Lonely Cowboy Thank you for taking the time to share your comment! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😊👍
Thankyou, very informative video. I have a 14.5 Briggs with awide open problem. Take care. Bob
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. 😁👍
Muy bueno. Muchas gracias por compartir su experiencia y cocimiento. Gracias.
Great video, when I took mine apart that tiny jet fell out,I didn’t see where it came from,put it in the wrong hole,did not run at all! I’m going back out to put in the proper hole right now…… THANKYOU for the awesome video,great job! 😊
I get a lot of comments on this. I just made this video specifically to show where that jet goes. ruclips.net/video/g9SRvDaKgNE/видео.htmlsi=lSBaexL-qtD2khYg
Ok,started,ran great for 3 minutes and started spluttering and quit,restarted and running setting in the driveway,let er run till it doesn’t,looks like a new carb in the near future! Thanx again
I’ve got a video going live tomorrow morning at 6:00am show how to convert from the Nikki carb to the much better Walbro.
@@baldeagle242 I’ll check it out,THANKYOU
Thanks for the info. I was able to fix my mower thanks to you
+@user-jj1bs2lc4t Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Damn good video, sir. No distracting bs music in the background....detailed and precise instructions from start to finish. Great video quality. Had thought about getting one of those cheap China carbs, but decided it would be better to rebuild the OEM one. Btw.....the B&S carb kit was about $15 cheaper than the John Deere one, same exact kit too. Thanks!
Thank you. Let me know how it works out. 😁👍
You are the best teacher. thank you.
Excellent presentation.
+@lawsonstallings1955 Thank you and, thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
I took mine off, went to Amazon got one for $18 and works perfect....Even came with new hose, filter, cutoff valve and clamps..
Here’s a link to the full video. Simple Fix on a Seized Hydrolocked Mower Engine #baldeagle242
ruclips.net/video/8VxTRqJZi0Q/видео.html
I have a flooding/hydro locking issue with my engine as we speak. I’m going to pull the carb and see which gasket kit I need. Thanks
I looked and it does have the separate oring
Nice video BaldEagle! These carbs make me money! I much rather put some work into them than go aftermarket. Great tips!
Thanks, Kyle. They require a little extra TLC but perform well once everything is sealed and functioning correctly. I appreciate your support my friend. 🦅🇺🇸
I’m happy they are making us all money 😊
Thank you so much that was very helpful have a flooding issue now
Great video. This was exactly what I needed. Thanks for the info and how to. I had ordered an aftermarket one, but I'm just gonna rebuild my factory one and hold on to the other. I'd much rather have OEM than Chinese
It's usually better to fix the OEM carb. Depending on engine size, there are different jets, and the Chinese carbs are built with a one size fits all mentality. You can generally get them to work, but they will not be as tuned for your particular engine as the OEM. Thanks for watching, and good luck with it. Let us know how it turns out. 🦅🇺🇸
I have checked all the valves and can't see anything out the ordinary, I opened the motor and checked the timing and only thing I can see is that the timing mark is not quite punched on the centre of the notch , I am thinking it is out a tooth ???
I knew I would subscribe the second I saw you throw that plastic piece in the trash!
Thank you! 🤣👍
was the main jet on the table when you put the bowl on ( 9:29 time marker) I didn't see you install that. does it sit flush in that white tube or on top with the rubber O-ring in the white tube.
ruclips.net/user/shortscRdxfJTZoK4?si=X6ePbis2MR3zwivf
@@baldeagle242 THANK YOU!
You’re welcome. I made the short because so many people needed to know. 😉👍
Great job my friend.
Thanks for stopping by, Jerry. I appreciate the support and kind words.
Great video, I have the same carb, had it out, clean it, but my want start, dosent give fuel to the spark plug, it`s dry.
Been standing 3 years with old fuel in it.
That thing purrs 👍
Thanks for stopping by to watch Bill. I appreciate your support. 🦅🇺🇸
I need help. On the back of the carb there is an elbow, attached to the elbow is a hose. You can see at 0:37 there is something in the hose but at 11:00 its gone. I noticed this happened to me while doing this and now I cant find it. Was wondering what the parts are called. Cant seem to find them anywhere
You’re carb backfired smoke when shutting off . So the shut off switch in bottom of carb doesn’t prevent that?
It will keep fuel from sucking into the engine and backfiring out the muffler. It’s rare to see an actual backfire out the carb but it’s not uncommon to see a puff of smoke with the air cleaner removed. This is normal and no cause for concern.
Great video best I’ve seen on this carb.
Thank you! I hope to see you around on future videos.
+Terry Vogel Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Great video. Extremely informative. Thank you
Thanks for watching. Hopefully, it helps a few people out. 😁👍
Have you had one of these Briggs Inteks that take 20-45 seconds to warm up? I have a 20 hp, 540 cc Intek, rebuilt the carb w/ the Briggs kit and it runs great only weird thing is the motor is slow to warm up. Starts instantly on choke and when I move it off choke it takes 20-45 seconds. Also adjusted the valves to the specs
I can’t say I’ve experienced that situation before. 🤷🏻♂️
Great video..easy to follow..nicely done.
+ Peter Acke - Thank you!
Very useful video, thanks. I've got the engine running again (Briggs 13.5 HP OHV) on my ALKO ride on mower but I've noticed some dripping from the breather pipe next to the intake manifold. I've replaced the float needle in case the carb was flooding although it didn't seem to have a rubber seat for the needle and I still have a dripping from the breather pipe. Any suggestions on what to check next?
If you’d like to fix it for good I’d recommend changing it over to a Walbro style carb.
Simple Upgrade: Switch from Nikki to Walbro Style Carburetor!
ruclips.net/video/ZVbOFzW0inM/видео.html
great job, running sweet
Thanks for stopping by Mr. Rooster. This one turned out to be a great find in the end.
Nice video Baldeagle, love where you stored the limiter at. 👍👊
Thanks for your support John. 😁👍🦅🇺🇸
Anytime brother. 🙂
I have a troy built bronco 2017 it has a nikki 5the on plastic in the bowl is the float i got new gaskets and could only use 2 of the gaskets fit but i cant find the right gaskets for the bowl an silanoildany suggestion
I have links in the video description. There are two different styles.
Thank you for the video. Do you have a video or a link that describes what each of the ports on the carburetor are and how they are interconnected?
I have a few videos about this carb on RUclips but nothing like what you’re looking for.
@@baldeagle242 Ok. Thanks. Maybe I can sus it out from those videos. Just search for Nikki on your site?
@@kdcarver here’s a playlist with all of the mowers I’ve recorded videos on with a Nikki carb. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpbPG_TA7E8TDh-9PVRx7_xb&si=lXt2aprEq90BdYzY
@@baldeagle242 thanks for doing that. If you ever come across a flow diagram for these, I'd appreciate seeing it.
I have a craftsman snowblower that is leaking buy. I purchased the rebuild kit but need the needle o ring that dosen't come with it. Do you have the part number for it? Thanks
Great video, very helpful. Thank you.
Got a rebuild kit. Dropped in the main jet with the o ring on it, 1) it didn't hold the jet in like in the video and 2) I couldn't get the whole plastic set up to seat against the carb. If I took the o ring off it dropped into place and felt better. You ever not use the o ring?
If the o-ring is loose or not installed it may allow fuel to bypass the main jet. It doesn’t have to be tight but it does need to be a snug fit.
Hi
I have a YT3000 .When I try to go to full throttle,it constantly accelerates and decelerates,it does not stay at full throttle. What could be happening? Thank for your help. I am for Puerto Rico.
I have two videos that may help.
The first one should point you in the right direction.
ruclips.net/video/-uzKSJhJtww/видео.html
The second video is on a different engine and carb but is something to check on any surging engine
ruclips.net/video/QtCAehETLBE/видео.html
Preciate the video will be watching more thanks again
Hi, can you tell me how to find a video on how to rebuild a briggs and stration carburetor on a riding mower model part number 594207 , ?😔
If it's not a Nikki, it's probably a Walbro. I don't have a video on that carb but if you search for “Walbro carb rebuild” you'll probably find what you need.
I have an older John Deere with no solenoid from carb. There is a plug of some sort and must of came out. I’m trying a 3/8 fine bolt fits but still leaks . Can one use lock tight to seal or could I put in a solenoid to just seal it and grind off the point of it ? Any info would be great
You can cut the plunger off and use the solenoid to seal it.
@@baldeagle242 it don’t have a solenoid. Was able to plug with the fine thread 3/8 bolt with some rubber washers
Question for you. I purchased a carb rebuild kit. I only replaced those 2 particular Orings & gaskets. So, I'm reusing the same round white plastic piece & float. I cannot get the round piece back on flush to the carb. I took the jet & round gasket back out & still can't get it on there flush. Using all the original parts except for the 2 Orings & gasket. Seems like the long brass thing is where it's teetering on. Does it need pressed on? Suggestions?
No! You do not want to press anything… if it doesn’t go together with very minimal force something is not lined up properly. Your question was one of the reasons I made this video on a mower I’m working on today. This video shows more details than the previous on how everything goes together. 👇
ruclips.net/video/g9SRvDaKgNE/видео.htmlsi=7G7zKY4Uh81jBIDq
just replaced carb with a aftermarket 2 barrel on 24hp twin flooding and fouling my plugs bad
only adjustment seams to be a idle screw will start and run for 25-35 seconds before flooding out
pinch off gas hose and wait will start but same thing thinking of rebuilding the old carb?????
Either rebuild or use the jets from the original carb in the new carb.
What is that solenoid thing called on the carburetor called..? mine won't start and it doesn't move. Im thinking if i knew the part i could order it.. It's on my 382cc troybuilt rider 32"
It’s a fuel solenoid. I’m not sure which carb is on that mower but there are a few different ones. You could be able to compare yours to the ones on Amazon and find the correct one by looking at the pictures.
amzn.to/3ASi0nj
Do the main jet o ring comes in the kit or have to buy separate
The kit I list in the video description comes with both. Unless your original main jet is lost or damaged I recommend reusing your original main jet and only replacing the o-ring. The main jets in some of these kits are a one size fits all and not always the same hole size as your original.
Thank you I have a John Deere rider
Facebook market free post didn’t wanna put a lot of money first thing without doing a basic tune up
great video - I replaced my Nikki with a aftermarket one. it now revs high with no change when i use the throttle. any idea what the problem may be.
The first thing to check is your idle adjustment screw. Back it out and see if that solves your problem. Check to ensure the throttle plate closes when you adjust the throttle down. If you still have the original carb, I would pull the main jet out of it, make sure it's clean, and use it to replace the main jet in your aftermarket carb. While the aftermarket carbs do work, they are designed as a one size fits all, and they are never as good as the original carb that's specific to your engine. It would help if you also make sure that no air leaks are allowing excessive are to be sucked in around the carb. Not to oversimplify it, but an engine can only rev high if it's getting enough air to do so. Hopefully, this will point you in the right direction. Let me know what you find.
Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Hi, I couldn't get my old Nikki to work, it would run for 3 to 8 mins. and die and would not start again for about 10 mins., so I got a replacement carb and it runs great until it hits the grass, then it starts spit and sputters like it is going to stall, I have to keep stopping to let the engine rev back up. What could be the problem?
Could need the valves adjusted. I’d also check to make sure the exhaust isn’t stopped up.
I got a Nikki carburetor on my bridge Fannin somebody Chrysler that you'll mixtures Jack not the idling jet the fuel mixture Jack and I don't know how I can get it to go in the street is there any ideas how you can do that
Excellent video!! Thank you !!
+@scottjamable Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ruclips.net/p/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
I didnt see where the main jet went to although Ive always dropped it down in the pick up tube.Ive seen some place it on the top not dropping it down in there .where do you place it?
+B. Arnold ruclips.net/user/shortscRdxfJTZoK4?si=uRtyioHR2jJSNJiY
Thats what I thought which is what I always have done,Thanks!,@@baldeagle242
A decent video. One of the better ones on Nikki carbs.
Not happy with the advice to pull the idle mixture limiter cap off with a pair of pliers. I tried that and the mixture screw broke in half. Luckily, there was enough sticking out to grab and twist out with needle nose pliers. Got my Dremel out and cut a slot for a flat screwdriver for the time being until I can get a new mixture screw. Those screws are designed to break if you yank on the cap. Better to cut or split them off from the side, not putting any force on the screw itself. I noticed a gap in the video at 2:38, between you pulling on the cap and throwing it in the trash. Maybe the same thing didn't happen to you?
I did find out I put the main jet in wrong, had it in the emulsion tube first try. Just seemed like that is where it came from when I first disassembled the carb.
@user-mn8ii1gd8b Thank you for your valuable comment and feedback. I appreciate the time you took to share your thoughts. While I understand that such situations can occur, I have personally not encountered them myself. One feature that I believe would be beneficial is the ability to add text or a post-recorded overlay to videos on RUclips, allowing users to insert warning messages or brief videos to inform others about potential issues.
In light of your feedback, I will include a warning in the video description to alert viewers about the possibility of such occurrences. I also recommend being cautious when removing the cap by pulling it straight off without twisting or pushing it side to side. Once again, I am grateful for your input, and I look forward to having you join me in future videos.
I use a 12 volt deer feeder battery
Works great and easy to charge with solar panel
That’s a great idea. 😁👍
@@baldeagle242I have around 500 goats on 600 acres, I use deer feeders to feed them once a day
I switch batteries every 6 months and I use the old ones at shop
Have 3 male LGDs and 4 females
Puppy sales are great 👍
That’s awesome. Where are you located? (Generally)
I have the same mower only it won’t throttle down much. Could this be a linkage issue or dirty carb?
I’d check the linkage first. If it’s fully operational then it’s probably something internal.
Any idea why a brand new carb would cause the engine to surge? I've taken it apart to insure all the jets are open and O rings are in place and working properly. I've also tested the fuel pump, checked for vacuum leaks, and tried adjusting the mixture. Nothing seems to have any affect. It surges at both high and low speeds. My only thought is to scrap the carb and get another new one. The old carb wasn't surging. It began when I installed this new one. Briggs Stratton Intek 17hp with Nikki carb.
More than likely you have an air leak or the new jets are two small. I’d confirm there are no air leaks or cracks in the plastic intake. If that check out good I’d drill the main jet about .001” to .002” larger.
If that doesn’t work I’d swap the Nikki over to a Chinese Walbro and be done with it. 👇
ruclips.net/video/ZVbOFzW0inM/видео.htmlsi=2cEkbX-IaYDlccrQ
@@baldeagle242 Thanks for your reply. That's where I am with it. I think that I'll cut my losses and order another carb. It's just easier than trying to bore the jets when there's no guarantee it would work. I'll hang on to it as a future project when I have more time. Keep up the good work and thanks again. 👍👍👍
The aftermarket carbs are not the best. I’ve found aluminum flashing and seals that were crushed when they were assembled. Most of them are good usable carbs but quality checks are not factored into the price. I buy around 15-20 of them at a time and almost every time I’ll find at least one with an issue.
Best video on here ever ur an awesome person ty
Thank you! I hope to see you around on future videos.
Can you take a carburator from a 10 hp and put it on a 21 hp briggs lawn mower motor?
+Del Dumarce It wouldn’t be practical.
I am having a walbro needle and seat problem. If you don't shut the gas off after useing the next day the motor will backfire from flooding which is a needle and seat problem. They want about $20.00 now for a new needle and seat from B.S amazon. Is there anyway to reseat the needle valve seat for these 18hp 31H777-0202 B.S motors? as you can buy another new carb for those prices!
The best way to fix this issue is to replace only the needle and seat. Most of the time the rubber seat is damaged or out of shape from ethanol exposure. A new needle and seat runs about $4.00.
amzn.to/3EXYIAy
I got the same issue almost ruined my mower. Beagle do you have a part number for the aftermarket carb in the video. I'm having a hell of a time finding the right one. Don't wanna bother with the rebuild. My mower is torn down and I need to mow so if someone can respond asap I would be in debt to you. Thanks
This should be everything you need.
amzn.to/3Ab5EqJ
That's my problem mine is a john deere 115 not a la115. And it's a 19hp. This says 18 hp . Please help
Thanks for responding so fast. Wow
It's a Briggs 19hp ohv Intek motor for a john deere115
The only difference will be the main jet. (The small brass piece with rubber O-ring) if the one in your original carb is salvageable I always recommend sticking with the original. You can use the o-ring from the new carb if needed.
Thanks for the video, got a question for ya. I can’t get my mower started. Fuel is getting to the carb, got fire at the plug…cranks but won’t turn over, got any suggestions?
It’s difficult to say without looking at it. First thing I would do is start with new fuel and drain anything that’s in the carb bowl. Will it start if you spray starting fluid directly into the carb?
@@baldeagle242 I’ll check that tomorrow. My plan was to pull the carb this weekend and clean it up. Sorry to bug you with this, I really do appreciate your tome
@@ronhutton9739 I try to help any way I can but only so much I can do through text.
@@baldeagle242 I’ll ship it to you lol
😁👍
The solenoid on my carb is not working, would this alone cause the engine to start and run for a second then die? If I rebuild the carb is the solenoid working necessary for the engine to run? Great video btw, thanks.
The solenoid does not necessarily have to work but it does have to be disengaged from the main jet for the engine to run.
In other words if the plunger was completely cut off inside the bowl of the carburetor the engine would run without it. However, if the Solenoid failed in the extended state with the plunger out the engine will not get fuel to run.
The downside to cutting the tip of the solenoid plunger off is a potential backfire from excessive fuel being sucked through the engine and into the hot muffler. This can be negated by throttling the engine way down to its minimum rpm before shutting the key off.