I suggest using both methods. Soak for a day to help loosen the crud and then run the ultrasonic for an hour or so. Then go to your medicine cabinet and grab your old toothbrush (probably needs changing anyway) to finish off anything stubborn. Thanks for the time you invested making this comparison.
Thanks for the heads up,think ive got lots of fine rubber killers on hand and glad i started looking around,wondering if itsa good udea at all to run the engire carb,lot of orings in there
Might try diluting the Pine sol by 50% to water & putting the throttle bodies into a Ziploc baggy then add the Pine sol. Put this in the ultrasonic cleaner and add water to the tank. The ultrasonic action will work inside the baggy. Saves on Pine sol & cleaning the tank.
Just a heads up, you are supposed to fill the resevoir up to the fill line (right above the basket) failure to do so will result in your Ultrasonic Cleaner blowing up. This is according to the user manual.
Thats a pretty viscous looking liquid, try it with 50% water next time and heat the water, The lower the viscosity, the more cavitation effect present. Fluids with higher viscosity are sluggish and do not react quickly enough to form cavitation bubbles and the reduces the subsequent implosion effect, which is how they work, a side benefit is it'll also mean you can clean more for your $ as it'll go twice as far. might even be able to go 33% pinesol to 67% water. I used to use one of these for fire and flood restoration work back in 1998 when they were pricey pieces of equipment back then.
Thanks for the tip! I have been toying with diluting the pine sole for $ savings and actually because some detergents need some water for the soap and grime to bind to but I had not thought about the viscosity. For this shootout I needed to do a 1:1 comparison and the "internet wisdom" was to soak the carb body in 100% pine sol so the ultrasonic test needed to be the same. Thanks for the comment, I really appreciate it.
I've got two ultra sonic cleaners (1 for west coast, 1 for upper mid-west). We use them a lot in aircraft engine repair. I didn't know about the Pine-Sol, (will be trying that) thank you very much for the informational video.
Just advised, I made a mistake putting my goldwing full carburettor into ultra with TFR with a bad consequences now have to replace all internal rubber
Great demonstration. I'm definitely sold on the Pine-Sol effectiveness on aluminum. Thank You Mr Daze! I have never spent enough time to validate the following..... but the internet cautions that you can damage the ultrasonic drivers if the tank liquid level is not full. YMMV "Steve's small engine saloon" did a series of YT videos on the ultrasonic cleaner when he got one. Also very interesting results.
I’m just glad it doesn’t pit the aluminum. I work on small engines and soaking the carbs and other parts in that would be a perfect alternative to what I use. 🤝
I good tip I have used so that I don’t use as much cleaner, is I fill the ultrasonic cleaner with water, and I put the part and cleaner in a zip lock bag, or glass mason jar. This also helps to keep the ultrasonic cleaner clean.
Perfect timing for this comparison as I just purchased the 10L Creworks ultrasonic cleaner for use on my motorcycle carburetors. Paid about $120 on Amazon (didn't know about your channel, sorry). Looking forward to using it with Pine-Sol. Thanks for the informative video.
Glad I could help! Make sure you check out my video on pine-sol and how it can etch some metals. It is not a super aggressive etch but important to know as a verity of metals are used for carburetors. ruclips.net/video/9nCAZA6HThU/видео.html
I was amazed how well it worked. Have you experimented with mixing water with the pine-sol? I have heard 50/50 is actually better but have not needed to clean anything to test it.
Pine sol leaves a thin film of varnish like material when used. It would undoubtedly leave that film on the carb and interior passageways of the carb. What effect would that thin varnish like substance have upon The carb?
I have done quite a few tests with pine sol and there was no varnish at all, no film, no residue, nothing but clean metal. If it was an issue in the past it is not an issue now.
PineSol can cause rust the surface line but does not seam to have that issue if the part is fully submerged. May cause pitting if soaked long term. I have heard good things about dishwasher and laundry pods with water but I would never try something without testing it on something similar that I was not concerned about getting messed up.
I have the $60 ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight I use at my shop to clean engine parts. I tried a bunch of the cheaper cleaners and the absolute best was “Awesome” cleaner I think they sell it at the dollar store. I should make a video but without any scrubbing I put an internal aluminum engine part with that baked on bronze color staining and in 5 minutes it looked like new.
La's awesome will discolor / etch metal be warned look up videos on it discoloring motor blocks you have to really dilute it.. I use the hell of out of it just not in the ultrasonic cleaner .
I have an ATV carb that someone added draino to the fuel and made the float bowl corode bad the rest of carb is unhurt, I picked and scraped all I could used baking soda and toothbrush to scrub so far hasn't eaten up anymore but how dose pinesol work on corrosion
It is not very affective with corrosion. Most soap based chemicals are not going to tackle corrosion. If the carb body is for sure aluminum the white corrosion power is aluminum oxidize and is very resilient however something lye based will dissolve it BUT it will also etch the aluminum so you need to be very carful not to damage your part. 9do this at your own risk) Purple power is a lye based soap and may cut through the corrosion. lastly many carb bodies are not aluminum but rather pot metal so be extremely carful not to damage the metal as the main ingredient in pot metal is zinc and zinc is easily dissolvable in a verity of chemicals
Thanks for the video. Point being is that ultrasonic cleaners are worth it. If you have to spend that much time on the outside of the carb to get it cleaned, just thing of all the ports and everything inside the carb that you cannot scrub. Carb might look good but you may never completely clean it to make it work properly.
The viscosity of Pine-sol might affect the cleaning, try diluting it in the ultrasonic, it seems kind of thick, and try it with just water to see if there is a difference.
That is an excellent point, not to mention that "soaps" are designed to bond filth, grime, and oils to water molecules so the detergent might actually be more effective if water was added. I have not had cause to use the cleaner since shooting this video but my next attempt I am planning a 50/50 mix
Paint stripper works just as well as using the ultrasonic cleaner & you don't need to buy the equipment, it's what I always used 50 years ago in England to clean alloy castings including carb. housings & still use today. If used just make sure that after removing the spent stripper (after say 40 mins.) to remove the residue with a stiff brush & tap water & that all treated parts are then blown out using compressed air. However, IMO vapour blasting is the ultimate cleaning method, as everything comes up like new.
That is good tip but paint stripper is so caustic that I think it would be comparable to the available carburetor dips at which point I would use one of those. Harsh chemicals are what I'm trying to avoid.
Yes..Hank T5B..Chem Dip..Just remove plastic/rubber components first..Then just submerge in a clean metal container..Just use Lemon Pine Sol for the floors and toilets where it belongs....
I'm pining for an ultrasonic cleaner, but the pine-sol soak will have to do for now. "Like a Carolina pine forest!" I wonder if one of those smells different than a white pine forest.
Maybe try a smaller tub with the part and solution sitting in the US cleaner with water to save the volume needed. Impressive results on the cleaning though.
That is a good idea. A simpler solution might be "a dummy part", something already clean sitting next to the carb body to displace the extra fluid volume needed.
Agitation and heat are key. Same goes for Evaporust. The ultrasonic cleaner is great for removing grease and cleaning out carb passages and orifices. But if you want the body and venturies to look "next level" purchase a decent hand held soda blaster and blast the carb body. It will remove the oxidation and leave a great finish. The soda completely washes away with water so your not clogging passages or orifices again.
I’ve never tried it but always wondered about putting a little air line down at the bottom of the bucket and bubbling air up through the fluid as an agitator. Thank you for your videos.
that may work as an agitator OR it may create a barrier between the part and the solution as air bubbles tend to stick on the side of submerged parts. The other issue would be foam. Most "soaps" are going to produce an excessive amount of foam. A solvent like mineral sprites probably won't foam but then we are adding air to a flammable liquid... probably not a good idea 😁
I checked and it IS in the description, not sure why it's not coming up for you. Here are a few links Amazon link to Ultrasonic Cleaner amzn.to/3HoeQLJ Walmart link to Ultrasonic Cleaner walmrt.us/490SJH0 Let me know if I can be of any further assistance
I don't know if you your still messing with treadmill motors or not but I have one on my homemade Mill an when I turn it down on low it like pulsates do you know what would cause it to do that?
As a test try running it without the choke. Don't run it long term this way just to see if that eliminates the problem. Have you added a capacitor to the system?
no but they can cause pulsing thats why I asked. It may be easier for you to contact me through my website so you can email me pix so I can see if there is something that jumps out at me.
Don't leave a carburetor in a bucket of Pine Sol for a month. I'm not sure what it does on the molecular level but it turned a Bendix/Zenith carb a dark grey that does not wipe off.
It has to do with the carb body material. Yours must have been something other than aluminum, my guess would be a zinc alloy . ruclips.net/video/9nCAZA6HThU/видео.htmlsi=lDItvTZnd5SYrxRW
Will this work with BAKED ON HARDENED CARBON deposits? Real game changer for cleaning piston grooves, if it works! I did a rebuild and had a headache from using the strong chemicals to clean up piston grooves - horrid job!
I was told by bran sonic tech support that you don’t want to use detergents that are not made specially for US cleaning because they foam up and keep the US from cavitation.
Really like the “No effort” part of the job.
Thanks for the comparison. 👍👍
Thanks for watching!
I suggest using both methods. Soak for a day to help loosen the crud and then run the ultrasonic for an hour or so. Then go to your medicine cabinet and grab your old toothbrush (probably needs changing anyway) to finish off anything stubborn. Thanks for the time you invested making this comparison.
I agree. the part that soaked for 24 hours first didn't need much ultrasonic to finish it out.
I’ve been using ultra sonic tanks for carburetors and injectors and I have used pine sol for years and with heat it’s even better . Great video
glad you liked the video and good to hear others have had similar results.
Thanks for the heads up,think ive got lots of fine rubber killers on hand and glad i started looking around,wondering if itsa good udea at all to run the engire carb,lot of orings in there
👍
Might try diluting the Pine sol by 50% to water & putting the throttle bodies into a Ziploc baggy then add the Pine sol.
Put this in the ultrasonic cleaner and add water to the tank. The ultrasonic action will work inside the baggy. Saves on Pine sol & cleaning the tank.
makes sense but the Pine-Sol was not expensive. I can see it as a way to keep the solution cleaner longer.
Just a heads up, you are supposed to fill the resevoir up to the fill line (right above the basket) failure to do so will result in your Ultrasonic Cleaner blowing up. This is according to the user manual.
good point
Thats a pretty viscous looking liquid, try it with 50% water next time and heat the water, The lower the viscosity, the more cavitation effect present. Fluids with higher viscosity are sluggish and do not react quickly enough to form cavitation bubbles and the reduces the subsequent implosion effect, which is how they work, a side benefit is it'll also mean you can clean more for your $ as it'll go twice as far. might even be able to go 33% pinesol to 67% water.
I used to use one of these for fire and flood restoration work back in 1998 when they were pricey pieces of equipment back then.
Thanks for the tip! I have been toying with diluting the pine sole for $ savings and actually because some detergents need some water for the soap and grime to bind to but I had not thought about the viscosity. For this shootout I needed to do a 1:1 comparison and the "internet wisdom" was to soak the carb body in 100% pine sol so the ultrasonic test needed to be the same. Thanks for the comment, I really appreciate it.
I've got two ultra sonic cleaners (1 for west coast, 1 for upper mid-west). We use them a lot in aircraft engine repair. I didn't know about the Pine-Sol, (will be trying that) thank you very much for the informational video.
glad I could help
Crazy. Who knew 💕💕💕💕
I know I was shocked
Just advised, I made a mistake putting my goldwing full carburettor into ultra with TFR with a bad consequences now have to replace all internal rubber
You do need to be careful what you soak parts in. I always recommend testing first anytime using a cleaner that is not designed for that purpose.
In recently got an ultrasonic cleaner and I love it. I haven’t used pinesol for aluminum but I will try it.
I was shocked how well it worked
Great demonstration. I'm definitely sold on the Pine-Sol effectiveness on aluminum. Thank You Mr Daze!
I have never spent enough time to validate the following..... but the internet cautions that you can damage the ultrasonic drivers if the tank liquid level is not full. YMMV
"Steve's small engine saloon" did a series of YT videos on the ultrasonic cleaner when he got one. Also very interesting results.
yes that is true. It need to be 2/3 full or more so either put clean dummy parts to displace the fluid or add more fluid.
I’m just glad it doesn’t pit the aluminum. I work on small engines and soaking the carbs and other parts in that would be a perfect alternative to what I use. 🤝
it works very well
@@dazecars Very Cool I’ll have to try that! Thanks! 🤝
My pleasure
I good tip I have used so that I don’t use as much cleaner, is I fill the ultrasonic cleaner with water, and I put the part and cleaner in a zip lock bag, or glass mason jar. This also helps to keep the ultrasonic cleaner clean.
Great tip!
Perfect timing for this comparison as I just purchased the 10L Creworks ultrasonic cleaner for use on my motorcycle carburetors. Paid about $120 on Amazon (didn't know about your channel, sorry). Looking forward to using it with Pine-Sol. Thanks for the informative video.
Glad I could help! Make sure you check out my video on pine-sol and how it can etch some metals. It is not a super aggressive etch but important to know as a verity of metals are used for carburetors. ruclips.net/video/9nCAZA6HThU/видео.html
I have the same 10L Creeworks model, and I use Pine-Sol in mine all the time for carbs... 👍
I was amazed how well it worked. Have you experimented with mixing water with the pine-sol? I have heard 50/50 is actually better but have not needed to clean anything to test it.
Did you try the heat function? If so did it make a difference? Thank you for the video.
no. not yet. I know it will maket it even better but have not had the opportunity to use that function yet.
Pine sol leaves a thin film of varnish like material when used. It would undoubtedly leave that film on the carb and interior passageways of the carb. What effect would that thin varnish like substance have upon
The carb?
I have done quite a few tests with pine sol and there was no varnish at all, no film, no residue, nothing but clean metal. If it was an issue in the past it is not an issue now.
What solvent would you use if the linkages were still attached to the throttle bodies. Some suggest pine sol pits steel. Any thoughts? Great vid.
PineSol can cause rust the surface line but does not seam to have that issue if the part is fully submerged. May cause pitting if soaked long term. I have heard good things about dishwasher and laundry pods with water but I would never try something without testing it on something similar that I was not concerned about getting messed up.
I have the $60 ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight I use at my shop to clean engine parts. I tried a bunch of the cheaper cleaners and the absolute best was “Awesome” cleaner I think they sell it at the dollar store. I should make a video but without any scrubbing I put an internal aluminum engine part with that baked on bronze color staining and in 5 minutes it looked like new.
Thanks for sharing
La's awesome will discolor / etch metal be warned look up videos on it discoloring motor blocks you have to really dilute it.. I use the hell of out of it just not in the ultrasonic cleaner .
thanks for the tip
I use Simple Green. 1/4 c per liter of water. Very good results for me with the brown crud build up inside carbs
I have heard good things about simple green, I have also heard it can etch or discolor the metal.
With carburetors and throttle-bodies it's whether the inner passages are being cleaned and cleared out, not so much what the exterior looks like.
Correct, but the outside is easier to show on camera. The ultrasonic cleaner and P-S did wonders on these parts both inside and out.
The heat makes a tremendous difference!!!
👍
I have an ATV carb that someone added draino to the fuel and made the float bowl corode bad the rest of carb is unhurt, I picked and scraped all I could used baking soda and toothbrush to scrub so far hasn't eaten up anymore but how dose pinesol work on corrosion
It is not very affective with corrosion. Most soap based chemicals are not going to tackle corrosion. If the carb body is for sure aluminum the white corrosion power is aluminum oxidize and is very resilient however something lye based will dissolve it BUT it will also etch the aluminum so you need to be very carful not to damage your part. 9do this at your own risk) Purple power is a lye based soap and may cut through the corrosion. lastly many carb bodies are not aluminum but rather pot metal so be extremely carful not to damage the metal as the main ingredient in pot metal is zinc and zinc is easily dissolvable in a verity of chemicals
Thanks for the video. Point being is that ultrasonic cleaners are worth it. If you have to spend that much time on the outside of the carb to get it cleaned, just thing of all the ports and everything inside the carb that you cannot scrub. Carb might look good but you may never completely clean it to make it work properly.
Great point!
The viscosity of Pine-sol might affect the cleaning, try diluting it in the ultrasonic, it seems kind of thick, and try it with just water to see if there is a difference.
That is an excellent point, not to mention that "soaps" are designed to bond filth, grime, and oils to water molecules so the detergent might actually be more effective if water was added. I have not had cause to use the cleaner since shooting this video but my next attempt I am planning a 50/50 mix
Paint stripper works just as well as using the ultrasonic cleaner & you don't need to buy the equipment, it's what I always used 50 years ago in England to clean alloy castings including carb. housings & still use today. If used just make sure that after removing the spent stripper (after say 40 mins.) to remove the residue with a stiff brush & tap water & that all treated parts are then blown out using compressed air. However, IMO vapour blasting is the ultimate cleaning method, as everything comes up like new.
That is good tip but paint stripper is so caustic that I think it would be comparable to the available carburetor dips at which point I would use one of those. Harsh chemicals are what I'm trying to avoid.
Dirt will go everywhere in the part, when it settles it sticks. I recommend to swish the part around and pull it out while the machine is still on.
good tip
Yes..Hank T5B..Chem Dip..Just remove plastic/rubber components first..Then just submerge in a clean metal container..Just use Lemon Pine Sol for the floors and toilets where it belongs....
Thank you for your comment
CHEM DIP is by far the best ever!!!!
👍
Yes..Chem Dip..
👍
I'm pining for an ultrasonic cleaner, but the pine-sol soak will have to do for now. "Like a Carolina pine forest!" I wonder if one of those smells different than a white pine forest.
I think pine is pine when it comes to smell 😂😂
Maybe try a smaller tub with the part and solution sitting in the US cleaner with water to save the volume needed.
Impressive results on the cleaning though.
That is a good idea. A simpler solution might be "a dummy part", something already clean sitting next to the carb body to displace the extra fluid volume needed.
@@dazecars or a big jar full of water
👍
Does the pine sol evaporate off or leave residue or cause corrosion if not washed?
You MUST rinse it off. It is soap not a solvent like break clean
Agitation and heat are key. Same goes for Evaporust. The ultrasonic cleaner is great for removing grease and cleaning out carb passages and orifices. But if you want the body and venturies to look "next level" purchase a decent hand held soda blaster and blast the carb body. It will remove the oxidation and leave a great finish. The soda completely washes away with water so your not clogging passages or orifices again.
good point
I’ve never tried it but always wondered about putting a little air line down at the bottom of the bucket and bubbling air up through the fluid as an agitator. Thank you for your videos.
that may work as an agitator OR it may create a barrier between the part and the solution as air bubbles tend to stick on the side of submerged parts. The other issue would be foam. Most "soaps" are going to produce an excessive amount of foam. A solvent like mineral sprites probably won't foam but then we are adding air to a flammable liquid... probably not a good idea 😁
There's nothing in the description. What's the name of this unit so i can look it up in Amazon.
I checked and it IS in the description, not sure why it's not coming up for you. Here are a few links
Amazon link to Ultrasonic Cleaner
amzn.to/3HoeQLJ
Walmart link to Ultrasonic Cleaner
walmrt.us/490SJH0
Let me know if I can be of any further assistance
I don't know if you your still messing with treadmill motors or not but I have one on my homemade Mill an when I turn it down on low it like pulsates do you know what would cause it to do that?
sounds like you have the cheap longer skinny SCR not the good one I recommend in all my videos
No I bought the good one I even put a choke an a farite ring also had to change the potentiometer I put 2 on it like you showed to get the fine feed
As a test try running it without the choke. Don't run it long term this way just to see if that eliminates the problem. Have you added a capacitor to the system?
No I haven't. Should I?
no but they can cause pulsing thats why I asked. It may be easier for you to contact me through my website so you can email me pix so I can see if there is something that jumps out at me.
Don't leave a carburetor in a bucket of Pine Sol for a month.
I'm not sure what it does on the molecular level but it turned a Bendix/Zenith carb a dark grey that does not wipe off.
It has to do with the carb body material. Yours must have been something other than aluminum, my guess would be a zinc alloy . ruclips.net/video/9nCAZA6HThU/видео.htmlsi=lDItvTZnd5SYrxRW
@@dazecars I do believe that the Bendix carbs are a zinc based carb.
It all your fault for not making your video two years ago, LOL!!
I will try and make future videos in a more timely fasion 😂😃🤣
I just wonder what ultra sonic chips taste like now
"ultra sonic chips"??
Will this work with BAKED ON HARDENED CARBON deposits? Real game changer for cleaning piston grooves, if it works!
I did a rebuild and had a headache from using the strong chemicals to clean up piston grooves - horrid job!
its just okay on carbon
Please try tide detergent
I was told by bran sonic tech support that you don’t want to use detergents that are not made specially for US cleaning because they foam up and keep the US from cavitation.
Because you have used it and it's a good carb dip or because you want me to find out if it would work at all?
Pine-sol works ok but it stinks up the garage terribly. Be warned.
I thought is smelled way better than other options... but I also minimized the fumes.
It REALLY stinks up your kitchen, when you boil a carb in a pressure cooker with Pine-Sol on the stove.... 😵💫 🫢
I can only imagine 😂😂
Will the pinesol affect plastics?
Not all plastics are the same so I would test it on somthing unimportant first.