OILGATE 2.0! Briggs and Stratton's "No Oil Change Needed" Gimmick EXPOSED! SEE THE RESULTS!
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- Опубликовано: 3 июн 2023
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My name is Bre. I took two years of small engine repair at the local college. When I left school, I fell into a wonderful job at a local small engine shop where I worked the counter for a couple years. In 2010 my husband and I opened up our own small engine shop in central Arkansas where I am able to work alongside my family and best friends. We see over 2,000 pieces of small engine equipment every year, and answer 1,000's of small engine questions. We specialize in brands such as Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Echo and Shindaiwa, but work everyday on MANY other brands like Stihl, Husqvarna, Honda, Craftsman, Remington, Red Max, Troy Bilt, Scag, Bad Boy, Hustler, World Lawn, Poulan, Mantis, Etc.. Hopefully, my experience I share, will save you Time, Money and Frustration in the future!
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My Dad always told me, “Oil is cheap, but engines are expensive.” Enough said.
Oil isn't cheap anymore
Cheaper than a new engine
Is your dad Scotty Kilmer?
I change my lawn mower's oil , keep the motors going.
Do you always follow all your Dad's advice?
The fact that the website domain is not in service for them anymore is just the icing on the cake.
Well, the company's logo is B&S, just remove the "&" 😀
Silly things aside, I really like the B&S ohv engine in my Ariens snow blower. Beats any flathead in ease to start well below 0. Of course I change my oil every year though.
@@claudehebert3131 THAT ENGINE is not part of the "no oil change" concept. ONLY ONE LINE OF ENGINES IS. "Chickanic" laid an egg on this story.
@@apex107lrp And you know this how ?
@@apex107lrp How? Every engine she showed us... didn't it have the "no oil change" sticker on it?
@@benvincent24 Yeah but MD plate says the free state too.
Great advice. I've mowed my half-acre of so-called lawn with the same $100 mower for 38 years. It has a flathead Tecumseh and the same sponge filter that came with it. I change the oil and wash the filter at least once a year. Finally last year I had to replace the rings due to oil usage but now it's fine and I plan to take it to the grave.
I thought I was cheap!
Christ.
@@loveydovey4u That's not cheap it's economical.
@johnarnold893 I was that guy and finally decided to buy a riding lawnmower.... I can cut my lawn so much faster now!
Yeah... Tecumseh, Michigan. I know that little city pretty well. They used to build small engines and compressors for freezers. The brand still exist but not manufactured in Tecumseh anymore.
I worked for a landscaping company (2010-2017) that believed what Briggs & Stratton was saying, two years later every one of the new mowers needed a new engine because you could hear the bottom end of the engine rattling that bad, every time we would start one up it was a question of is it going to throw a rod today.
Hmmm it’s possible, just maybe, they didn’t intend this directive to apply to commercial use in a landscaping business? They meant it for the average homeowner using the mower once every couple weeks a few months of the year?
Given they made it two years in commercial use that is pretty impressive. Your two years is like a homeowners ten years at a minimum.
That said, lol, I’d be changing the oil and ignoring the sticker
@@stevenbrown1527 you could hear the bottom end rattling after the first year just not to the point of worrying is it going to throw a rod today, also I used a Murray high wheel with a 5 h.p. B&S Quantum engine two mow an acre to an acre and a half from 98 to 05. I did this every weekend for 7 years. The key is to do a complete tune up at the beginning of the season.
You can always change the oil yourself, and never mention it to the boss, or foreman. Yeah, it'll be out of your pocket, but it beats having to sit at the property eating up your work day either waiting for the maintenance guy, or fixing it yourself. Just take a few minutes to change it out at the end of the day, and if it takes too long just tell them you were running a bit behind schedule.
It seems like most users believed the no change statement, but missed the add oil part!
Same with making fuel filters nearly inaccessible. Tools should be made to be repaired. The throw away business is a crime (of sorts).
not to mention not environmentally friendly, as it takes resources to manufacture new (not to mention waste by products)
@@ENDERTON2000 And to dispose of all the "throw-aways".
Just build high-rises. Who needs a lawn.
What consumer push mowers have fuel filters? The carb screen is the defacto filter.
@@stinkycheese804 nothing in a HU675HWT (husqvarna) just made good money today cleaning 2 carburators because someone (guy owned 2 of thm) decided to use a rusty gas can. they both now have an in-line filter (wps 12-1551). it's really just common sense.
My farm boy mentality told me to change the oil in mine, so I did. So many of these "improvements" are wolves in sheep's clothing. Great video! 👍
Its liability issues. Dumb people are much more litigious. Also, I think they're trying to trick fools into actually checking their oil for once by no longer tying the checking of oil to oil changes. Kind of a psychological trick. But I think another reason is that foolish owners tend to neglect or ignore serious safety issues since they know they can always just sue the company if a blade breaks off or a fuel leak burns down their garage. By making sure those people can't let their stuff get old before having it serviced, it saves the company a lot of money in potential legal costs. Also I'm sure there's some fine print that says that you do have to change the oil if you're using the engine under "severe duty" conditions which everyone likely is without knowing it(just like with cars).
The lazier a person is with the stuff they buy, the more litigious they are when something goes wrong.
I changed the oil on my no oil change needed mower every spring, but that said, I fully expect detergent oil to be black: it means it's doing its job by keeping dirt and contaminants in suspension, which, of course, is all the more reason to replace it regularly.
Detergent oil, is especially good for engine's with oil filters, or air compressors with oil filters.
Non Detergent lets the gunk settle in the pan, for splash lubricated engine's, and compressors.
According to many small engine repair shops the best engine out there is the Kohler 7000 series engine it's designed after the Kohler command commercial pro engine and has a 3 year unlimited hours warranty..
The best engine is the same that is on my lawn mower. Side valve B&S. I think it's about 40 year old unit. It is definately older than I am.
who actually believed that "no oil change needed" cmon!
I have customers, all the time say they don't need it with their service because it says that. We steer them straight.
You would be very surprised at how many actually believe the “hype”… It’s astonishing really 😢
The same people that bought Ginsu knives because they never needed sharpening
'I'm telling you to believe in magic, you muggle'. Lol
The majority of consumers that purchased mowers with these engines.
You are correct. They are in the business to sell parts, but also to sell more mowers. That oil looks like the opening scene from The Beverly Hillbillies.
Jed Clampett would be very proud
Selling parts. You mean those parts that the dealers wait months to get. 😀
I have one of those "no oil change" BS engines on my lawnmower. After two years I decided to ignore the manufacture "experts" and change the oil. It was like liquid graphite pouring out. Dark gray with a fine metallic sheen. Engine seems much happier now with a fresh oil change!
wise choice. I'd rather use thicker oils than no oil at all
In 1972 dad had a mechanic shop in a small town. He took me to western auto an I bought a 22" mower,it was $100 I put down $30 in silver dollars and paid the rest off as i made money. I learned to maintain it and had a spare key for the flywheel sandpaper for points and plugs put my gas can on the mower and walked to jobs. Taught me alot.
Good stuff brother
Wow! This brings back great memories. I just tore down and rebuilt a 2016, and there were no points in sight, but little potted gizmos. In many cases it makes things simpler, but you rely on those chips flowing from Taiwan if they ever fail.
That's true love. Your last five words made me smile.
should have paid cash and kept the silver dollars, as those in today's value, $30 would be worth about $750 spot price just melt on melt value alone (and that's just if it's 90% junk silver/culls; if they were in good condition you'd be fetching far more)
This is planned obsolescence by neglect. Our world teaches convenience not responsibility. Sad. Great video!
Exactly!!!
When B&S moved their facilities out of Wisconsin I knew they were no longer going to be a quality product. This is just another example.
Tecumseh was made here too, and some of the old Lawn Boy 2-cycles. I think some Kohlers still are. I believe the old Wisconsin Robins were made in Japan.
Absolutely shameful. Get ready for throwaway lawn equipment after 5 years. 😑👎
Fun fact they kept most of the Wisconsin plants even after the Bankruptcy. The Murray KY plant which was their most profitable was shut down and Popular bluff which at best broke even most years. Also B&S was able to under sell to the Chinese IN CHINA. Had Todd T not been bi-polar about the business they could have destroyed the rest of the market (and nearly did) ending up with a monopoly by default.
Even if they hadn't, their newer designs would still be designed worse.
You order garbage, you get garbage. Be it east Asia or North America.
@@WisconsinEric Kohler's are indeed made in the USA! Also Kawasaki is too. I'm still debating between getting a new Lawn Mower Engine on a Toro Deck, the Kawasaki FJ180V Kai or the Kohler 224CC?
I asked a worker at Lowe's about this , as he told me I laughed and said , ok you buy it ! I have my Lawn Boy for 21 years . I change it at the the start of the season and half way thru. I have been doing that for last 10 years
I've always changed the oil on my mowers (along with air filters, spark plugs, cables, and new blades). The "No oil change needed" trick is just what you called it. They are in the business of selling parts and new mowers. Long lasting equipment went out when people lost their moral compass, truth, and integrity.
I work at Lowe’s in Texas. A customer came in today wanting a fuel shut-off valve. I said, “ are you watching Chickanic?” We both laughed and enjoy your work! Thank you for all you do.
That didn’t happen so much that it unhappended things that did.
I had a Troy Bilt with one of these engines given to me (non-working). Was a 2015 that had been tossed to a corner of a barn as junk. I had read an article about these and knew B&S had retooled a factory to produce cleaner (less metal bits from machining or "flash") mfg, and closer tolerances. They said oil would be cleaner and cooler, and losses could be added which would also replenish additives. I've decided these were designed for the general public, with no trades experience, to be a throw away! Two things made this plain to me. Plug had never been changed, gap was .040 and second the air filter you mentioned... there wasn't one! Cover was full of grass and junk! I spent an hour... changing plug, dumping gas and oil, pulling and cleaning (plastic) carb, and air filter housing, putting in new air filter, refilling oil and gas and sharpening blade. So, for a parts cost of $12 I have a nice self-propelled mower that starts in 2-3 pulls! His new one cost him about $450!
Less flash? Sounds like the castings will have more porosity. Also, flash makes up a very small amount of the waste metal in casting. Overflows and cones make up the bulk of the excess material. I wonder if you stripped the blocks on 2 engines and weighed them how far off the weight would be from one to the other.
@@ryelor123 Less flash generally is a newer steel mould, with less wear on the mating faces. Those moulds should run 100k cycles, at least with a replate of hard chrome somewhere in there, then be refaced, rechromed, and be good for another 100k, then scrapped. But they will run them till the flash is 2mm thick, or the mould will not fill, as most leaks out. Many places now have a CNC machine that does all work on the casting after pouring, including deflashing, machining the close tolerance places, and drilling all the holes needed. Works out cheaper, and as it can also take the tooling and do a check on wear after every cycle, less out of tolerance parts as well, so saving cost. Scrap can easily be recycled into the casting again, it will be relatively clean and only contaminated with coolant, easy to remove with a wash, before being pelletised and fed into the melt furnace along with the raw metal feedstock.
Same for plastic bottles, your excess material is taken off right on the line, and binned for processing through a granulator, along with the failed bottles, then blended in with the new plastic and recycled there and then.
This lady is absolutely right,changing the oil occasionally will definitely extend the life of your machine,it also applies to trucks and cars it keeps contaminates to a minimum hence extending engine life.
I had a lawnmower repair business from the late 60's up till 1995. Love your videos and keep it up. I had done thousands of rebuilds due to dirty oil and air filters. Loved the customers that decide when the air filter gets totally plugged-up is to simply poke holes in it to get the engine to breath....🤣
😮😮😮.
That is sad. Even paper filters and be sucked clean with a vacuum. Are people really that dumb?
@@johnarnold893 Yes. People really are that dumb.
Stupid people gave you your living for nearly thirty years. Look at it that way.
People that never change the oil and add some at every use because the sticker says to just add oil.
Can we also look forward to the day when newborns come with a sticker "No diaper changes needed, Just add food"?
that writing on the package that says for 10-14 lbs aint lying
😂
Sadly there will possibly be a don't add food sticker , just change diapers .
I say this because there is a war on carbon ,... people are carbon
That's hilarious! Wish THAT was true!
If Briggs and Stratton were in the oil business, they would recommend that we change the oil monthly to prevent damage to todays cheaply made engines.
Most of these small engines use crappy plastic cam gears and governor gears inside them. Now they even have plastic carbs and intakes. Junk.
@@richb.4374
My 25 year old B&S flathead had a plastic carb attached gas tank.
Nothing new.
We have an old air seeder with a Wisconsin diesel engine in it. It recommends daily oil changes.
@@richb.4374 the plastic body carbs are far better than the metal ones on so many levels. I built them so I have first hand knowledge. So what do you have with the carbs? Those plastic gears and cams will outlast the block as long as you have oil in the sump regardless of how old the oil is.
@@markrickert9040 that has already been proven wrong by many small engine mechanics. The plastic timing gear on the crank likes to shear off
Former High school Small Engine Teacher here. Plus taught alot of other subjects also. Anyway, went to BriggsStratton School more than 10 years ago. They told us then not to change oil, believe it or not. When many of us asked why, they said customers do not change it anyway so just keep adding oil. That discussion also was about that 3/8" socket drain plug that B&S put in their older engines. They said they quit making that BECAUSE no one changed their oil anyway either. And no wonder. You could never find that plug anyway amongst all that dried grass. So when we saw black oil from a customers' mower we changed it.
Always been the rule of thumb, if you don't do anything else, change the oil regularly and it's the best thing you can do for any engine.
I always called bs on that “no need to change oil” like seriously a bottle of oil cost 3-5 bucks. One of the most important things you can do to extend your small engines life.
Where can I get $3 qt's of oil? Just finding dino oil is a pita. I'm down to Tractor Supply for qt's and Home Depot for 5 qt jugs of plain dino 10-30 $22/5 qt jug or$6/qt
Costco has full synthetic $40 for 2x 5 quart jugs, so $4 / qt. Not $3, but it is full synthetic.
@@JasonW.
I had a friend who used full synthetic in his rarely ridden only on Sundays BMW motorcycle and changed it every year.
The drained oil looked "as new".
I asked him what he did with it....he said recycling.
I said.."and how would that go in your old lawnmowers"
And he said (unprintable words)....
He had never thought about that....
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq I have had full synthetic 20W50 in my push mower for 6+ years and it is still almost as clean/clear as the day I put it in. Still has a light blue tint. I'm not changing clean oil with good viscosity. When it starts getting a little dark I will change it.
You guys are not looking at this through the lens of the average residential operator. A lot of people that use these mowers barely do the basic maintenance. Just making sure there is enough oil is big help.
I could just imagine what the old school Briggs and Stratton engineering department in the mid seventies would have said if somebody proposed the no oil change needed crap... lol
I had a late 90s push mower last me 10 years, and still ran when I gave it away, and I never changed the oil.
It's totally doable
The transmission in my subaru is supposed to be mts free.
Turns out, that's only In the US.
In Canada & Japan, they recommend changing the fluid every x amount of miles (kilometers those places).
Exact same model/ year.
Turns out the US is the only country they claim mts free.
Something to do with categorizing it as a lower mts something or other.
So that's bs that they are mts free.
Now they're telling me I can't buy just 1 tire, or 2 or 3.
Everytime I need a tire, I have to buy 4 because different tread ware could cause transmission /awd issues.
So stores won't sell me any less than 4! They won't let me buy 1 or 2!
I call bs again. I'd wager transmissions are failing because no one changes fluid, so they come up with an excuse that also sells a lot of tires.
& if I'm wrong, shame on them for having such a cheesy awd power train that forces me to buy 4 new tires everytime I have an unfixable tire!
Shame because it's been a great car til this mess
@@jupitercyclops6521 technically you can get just 1 or 2 tires. The thing is you gotta be smarter than the store policy which you aren't. Just take the wheel/s in off the said vehicle and will b no issues. The more you know 👐
@@shawnsatterlee6035 walmart take the wheel and they sell you one tire or buy 4 save the other 3 for later
@@jupitercyclops6521 You're right about it all except the tires and AWD thing,, if the speed sensors sense different speeds due to slightly different size tires it is "possible" that it can cause problems..
In July, 1980, bought a new 22" Wards push mower with a flat-head Briggs. Oil changes every year, clean the air filter twice a year, still runs perfectly 43 years later!!!!!! Still has the original spark plug and points. Have replaced the blade a few times, and one set of wheels.
It's not just the color of the oil to take note of. There's the beginning of the "tired old oil" smell method that I use to let me know it's time to change the oil. Works for me. My 1990 lawnmower starts on first pull and works exactly as it should. It can sometimes go 3-4 years between oil changes. I keep the air filter clean too.
Thanks for publicizing this! We may be just getting jaded, but it seems like no business, no manufacturer and almost no one can be trusted anymore when there's a profit to be made. Glad you're out there and have the disposition and courage to buck the system!
This isn't about profit. Its an agenda. Wake up read. Read everything. Read every day.
@@caroltenge5147 Yes, we believe you're right about an evil agenda driving this nonsense. But $$$$ is the carot-on-the-end-of-the stick held out by those at the top to control the foolish and greedy people lower down the food chain. Whether it's B&S, Pfizer or your local politician, their insatiable "Love of money is the root of all evil." Far too many people can be bought and sold. Thank you for your wise recommendation to read. We'd double-down on that by recommending a wide enough variety of reading material to be able to connect all the dots in this perverse spider's web.
It IS about an agenda...making an easy buck...an assembly line of robots makes the engines which are engineered to be simple and cheap to make for robots...just like with cars now...no workers to pay...work 24/7/365...no benefits...no families...no raises...no bathroom or lunch breaks...no mental health breaks...never get sick and perfect obedience...no conspiracy theorists and/or anti government theorists to distract the rest of the workers...oh wait...I did say no mental health issues... ;-) /s Saves the company tons in initial costs and on-going expenses, earns a huge profit...basic economics...
Good for you Bre,Tell them like it is up front and Blunt.
Everything is made to be thrown away: cell phones, TVs, computers, all kitchen electrical appliances.
I believe this will happen with electric cars. Once the battery dies, they will keep the cost high to replace it and the cars will be scraped. We already see this with the Toyota Prius. The battery lasts about 15 years and is not worth replacing.
similar to what others are saying - in the navy we always said “oil is cheaper than steel”
I grew up with Briggs and Stratton motors, lawn mower after lawn mower, small riding mowers and Mini-bikes. In those days I was taught how to maintain and service those motors. That was in the day we serviced and repaired cars, lawn mowers, washing machines and televisions at home. These days to many people and companies have a different attitude, you don't repair....you replace.
We'd have more mechanics if a certain organization who's name ironically ends in 'parenthood' didn't massacre a huge chunk of the population just so that upper-class people would feel less threatened.
The consumers got that attitude before the companies making the equipment did. I've fixed stuff for decades and I've lost count of all the broken equipment people have given me because it broke and they just decided to buy a new one. Unfortunately reality is that it's usually not much cheaper to pay someone to repair something than to throw it away and buy a new one. If nobody is bothering to have them repaired then it doesn't make sense for a company to spend more money in order to make it easier to repair. I don't like the direction things have gone but consumers have only themselves to blame, most people shop by price and if something is harder to fix but costs $10 less that's the one most people will buy.
Most stuff isn't intended to be repaired these days. Not only that, but companies go out of their way to *prevent* you from repairing things. More profitable for them. Not so much for the consumer, but they don't care enough to get upset about it.
I've had the same Haytor Kestral, with cast aluminium body, for the last 30 years. Had to replace the very rusty exhaust last week. Its B+S engine starts first time, as long as I tilt it backwards, to prime the carburettor.
I even hate the fact that they stopped putting drain plugs on mowers. It may be harder to do, but I feel you get more of the crap that settles on the bottom out. Also this is like cars with transmissions that have “lifetime fluid”!
Agree, but what you can do, is after you drain the oil, pour 1/2 cup gas in. Yes into the oil tube, swish it around (do not run the mower) vigorously, and dump out, let sit inverted to drain all that out for a few minutes.
Vehicle transmission fluid is a bit different in that it has no combustion byproducts, and the trans. fluid life is highly dependent on the operating temperature. Some state the lifespan doubles with each 10C temp reduction, which is why it's nice to have a transmission cooler if the use or environment puts it at elevated temp.
@@stinkycheese804 good points about the transmission oil, but then they go and put the transmission cooler in with the engine cooler to cut down on parts and labor. then when that breaks they mix and grenade something
@@stinkycheese804hey thanks for the gas suggestion, gonna do that!
Its a manufacturing issue. Drain plugs use pipe threads and the machines that tap those threads can get their calibration skewed. When that happens, the parts that were tapped too deep or shallow have to be scrapped. However, factory workers rarely notice the problem until many parts have been tapped and thus an hour of work and hundreds of castings can be doomed to be remelted.
Drilling and tapping a hole is cheap until the machine doing the tapping gets out of adjustment. So all the people whining about the company trying to save a buck are wrong. Having hundreds of parts in a row be ruined and scrapped can really mess up the assembly line when other parts are ready.
@@stinkycheese804/videos Just drill and tap the hole yourself and get a drain plug. The spot is probably still in the casting.
Wow, thank you now I really understand everything I wanted to know about Briggs And Stratton non-change oil Mowers but we’re afraid to ask Chicka power to the rescue.❤❤️❤️👍🏼
Claims of planned obsolescence are usually exaggerated, but here it's not even hidden. Encouraging customers to never change their oil is a great way to make more sells with the irony being that most customers will be replacing their B&S equipment with battery-electric equipment over the next few years. Great work to hasten your own demise, Briggs & Stratton.
Maybe send one of these samples out for an oil analysis? That would be fun!
You would have to send a sample of the new oil and the old used oil so they have a base to compare both. I contacted them about a custom oil that I blend and use and that is what they told me.
Just change the oil. Part of my regular maintenance is I change my lawnmower oil in the fall and changing my snowblower oil in the spring. Then both machines are ready to go when I need them.
before the website was failed to renew it said in 1 Aug 2015:
NEVER Change Lawn Mower Oil Again. Yes, never.
The new EXi engines series from Briggs & Stratton makes lawn mower oil maintenance easier than ever. With improved air cleaner seals, cooler engine temperatures, and high-precision manufacturing along with regular scheduled mower maintenance, the company’s new EXi series lawn mower engine is the first that never needs an oil change.* While the EXi engine requires that consumers need to only check the oil level and add as necessary, regular scheduled maintenance must still be performed.
Follow these simple steps to maintain good lawn mower engine health and prolong the life of your engine.
Change the air filter. With the EXi engine series, no tools are required to change the air filter. Consult your owner’s manual to find your air filter type (foam, paper, or combination). Browse air filters online, or find a dealer with our dealer locator below.
Check the oil. With the new EXi engine, simply check the oil level and if needed, add lawn mower oil. For other engines, read our oil change how-to. Searching for oil? Find your oil type and order online.
Change the spark plug. Briggs & Stratton genuine spark plugs are pre-gapped and simple to replace. Replace your spark plug each season to avoid stalled-start frustration.
Give your gasoline a boost. Did you know lawn mower gas goes stale after 30 days? Use our Advanced Formula Fuel Treatment and Stabilizer regularly.
Need more tune-up tips? Our Regular Maintenance Schedule has you covered.
*To see complete details refer to your Operating Manual. Briggs & Stratton standard warranty terms and conditions apply. Just Check & Add does not extend the warranty period
I agree, virtually EVERY mower I have serviced the filters are SO full of garbage, broken pieces of said filter. When asked when did they last change it, I get the Deer in the Headlight look? Air Filter??
Bwahaha! Yup!
I'll bet that's a good person to buy a used car from.
Hi Bre. Retired Auto Mechanic. Since I am in my 60's I admit to taking the easy road. I change the oil in my vehicles and mower myself. I bought a Vac extraction system to remove most of oil from my engines. First I learned to remove "hot" oil, it will flow better. It takes about 15 seconds to remove oil from mower. I have an older Honda mower and it is running just fine. Additives in oil break down and need to be changed. Mower holds about a quart of oil, pretty cheap insurance. Many mechanics would bang the air filter on the floor, or blow out with compressed air. Here again the price of an air filter is still pretty cheap insurance. I am with you, not changing the oil seems FOOLISH, and just asking for something bad to happen. Have a nice day. Don
It's getting to be he same thing with cars. 10 - 15 thousand mile oil change intervals. People say that the oil is much better today than in the past, yes, but it still gets contaminated and the additives still break down. Add to that turbos and direct injection engines, and you are asking for expensive problems down the road.
lol I had to watch one part of this video several times just to appreciate the beautiful delivery: "If you have a customer that's not going to take the time to change their oil, you know what else they're not going to change? Their air filter."
Thank You for this video. I bought a new Toro last year. I changed the oil like I always do. Each spring I change the oil, spark plugs and air filter on all my lawn equipment. I didn't notice the do not change oil sticker until I was done. I thought I messed up. I searched You Tube for a video. Yours came up. I should have guessed it would. I have been watching you videos for over a year now. I guess I'll keep changing my oil each spring. Keep up the great work. I love your channel.
It’s sad that before China started to build engines that Briggs had a mower that was almost indestructible!
Got to save a nickel !!!!!!!! Every where you can !!!!!!!!!
Who in their eight mind think that an internal combustion engine not need to have its oil changed on a regular basis.
They change the oil in their cars a lawn mower engine is just a one cylinder version of a car engine.
@@worry2much watch just rolled in and you will see a lot of them don't chsnge
@worry2much I change the oil on my "No Change Needed" mower.
The US based EPA outlawed the metal casting process.... or put so much red tape in place where it's too pricey to cast on-shore.
Unbelievable, that individuals can't even change their air filter and change the oil in a push mower. No wonder you own that beautiful red corvette. Always look forward to your videos and thanks for taking the time to make them.
cost more to fix a push mower than to replace it unless you can get free labor.
@@markrickert9040 How much does a push mower cost, $400? That is 16 hours I have to work at my job to make that much $. I can fix my own push mower in an hour or so with maybe $5-50 in parts and some basic tools.
Oil change use a hose and pump it out . Like the hubs on the new trucks are supposed to be sealed just take speed sensor out grease gun needle tip and vola.
If you can find a new gas mower , it’s about $ 400 . Might want to consider learning to do some basic maintenance.
I hardly ever change my lawn mower gas because what am I going to do with the old oil?
They're not lying when they say you never have to change the oil for the life of the engine, just add oil, because eventually when the engine seizes up its the end of the life of that engine, What they aught to stress is if you want your engine to last longer, CHANGE THE OIL ANNUALLY.
I asked a potential buyer of this scam "Do you just check and add oil to your car? No? Does it have a 1 year warranty? Absolutely NO!" changed their mind real quick.
I just started my 4th mowing season with a Toro walk behind mower. I was very skeptical about the never change the oil, just add. which was on the mower. Last week I changed the oil and cleaned the air filter with my air compressor set on25psi. The filter still looks new because I clean the air filter every other mowing. I have always believed in preventative maintenance, and will continue to do the routine maintenance on all my yard equipment. I enjoy your videos, because you tell it like it is, with no hype. I appreciate all of your excellent tips.
I just replace the filter, blowing it with air will always blow some inside even at lower pressure. Every other year seems fine for me, but i don't have a huge yard. Filters actually work better when they are partway dirty because the holes get even smaller.
@@eclipsegst9419 replacing the filter is better since the things cost almost nothing..but you can indeed blow them out and make them last a lot longer that way it's just a bit extreme IMO.
@@Ziegfried82 I agree. It was the guy I was replying to that said he blew them out. Dad used to blow out filters on the tractor because they were like 100 bucks. But for a lawnmower just replace it.
In my opinion, they don't want you to change your oil because they want your engine to wear out. When you go to buy a new mower, you'll be forced to buy an electric one because the gas mowers are going to be fazed out.
Phased, not fazed.
planned obsolescence!
Electric junk cannot replace gas equipement on intense use, It Just doesnt work unless you take with you 1 ton of batteries 😂
@@gillespriod5509 grassmower electric vastly better lol for automobile electric worse but grassmower i never ever use again the petrol type
@@chae_shoko Have fun with that if you cut grass all day at a lawn cutting business.
Funny story about the "old" B&S engines.
I worked for a lawn and garden company years ago and worked the back room and would do miscellaneous maintenance work for them.
We had an old B&S 3.5hp push power these part time minors would use to cut the grass weekly around the business.
At the end of the season I go to drain the oil and winterize the machine and notice the oil looked like straight 2 cycle (dark bluish).
One of the teenagers told me he was instructed by the owner to change the oil back at the beginning of the year and cut the grass. He didn't know any better and filled it with 2 cycle and it ran all season with it in there. Mower still ran like a top and didn't seem to care. Those were bulletproof
These days more companies are making things that are throw away. I have a friend that works in sanitation and he has picked up push mowers that home owners simply give up on and replace, he's even let me come and get some that I end up fixing with little effort as if there wasn't really anything wrong with it. Even car companies are getting worse about making cars with cheap parts that fail in no time and there are a lot of people that don't know much about cars so they basically give up and replace it with a new 1.
I've worked on a lot of equipment from lawn and garden stuff to construction small engines (think mortar/cement mixers, mudbuggies, walkie-stackers, etc.) to forklifts, to farm equipment, to heavy construction equipment (backhoes, crawlers/dozers-up to CAT D8, excavators) so I consider myself well versed in engines. I bought a new Craftsman walk behind in 2020 to replace an old MTD from the 90's. I laughed when I saw that no need to change the oil sticker. Long story short, I still change the oil and air filter each season. I believe they only did that to shorten the life of the engine so you have to buy a new one sooner.
They are known as 100 hour engines, but I'm betting that never seeing dirty oil, that will be quadrupled! BTW, if your oil is black, you have gravely shortened the life of he motor.
Darkish caramel, yank it!
@@garychandler4296Our old B&S Flathead engine just received its second oil change in 24 years. Never had any problems and still runs strong! Lawnmower of my grandfather is from the 80s with same engine. Had ONE oil change in all these years...and it STILL runs! Incredible!
Nope! I change the oil after the first and second full lawn cut. Then 2 times a season at a minimum. Airfilter as well.
Nothing better on a Sunday morning than a Chickanic video with my coffee!! Thanks, Bre! ❤❤
I'm doing the same! Thanks Karl!
No sugaring any of the intake, just Pure Enjoyment. Cheers!
Agreed!
☕and 🌞
Thank you for this, I purchased a new Toro lawn mower and it said no oil change. Thank the Lord for your channel , I hate it when manufactures try to Dumb us down to make a profit.
I have a 20-year old mower from Briggs & Stratton and I still change the oil along with the filter. Sucker still works like a charm. Excellent video!!
My favorite was the "just change the oil filter" that briggs used on the John Deeres.
I always delete that system so I can use a regular spin on filter and do a proper oil change.
Kawasakis on the 90's JDs can take Baldwin filters....now that's classy.
Yea..after paying over $2100.00 dollars for a John Deere ride on mower ,I'm not going to leave all that contaminated dirty oil in the crankcase. As soon as i got it ,I took that fitting with the giant oil filter off and changed my S120 over to a normal oil filter and drain system.
So, the water in the tire thing... It's a pretty common trick to add water (actually it's usually calcium chloride or methanol) to the drive tires to add more weight. It's not super helpful on smaller tractors, but when you get to bigger equipment it starts to be a lot of extra weight.
I was gonna say something similar, although I didnt know about calcium chloride or methanol, for adding counter weight weight.Eespecially in forklifts and similar lifting equipment.
I just spent hours trying to get a couple of tubeless tyres off water filled wheels. So much flaky rusty sludge. Just... don't do this!
Very common to put CaCL in tractor tires for weight to improve traction. The downside is the stuff is really corrosive so if there is a small leak in the tube, it will rust out the rim. One of my late father's antique tractors started to leak at the valve stem and I noticed it before it destroyed the rim and had the tire/tube replaced. Since that tractor is retired for field use, did not add any fluid back in. I have seen many older tractors that were left to sit where a tire leaked out and rim rusted away to the point the rim fell apart.
@@eeengineer8851 the tyres I was struggling with had water. And they were tubeless. What a mess.
Calcium chloride is slightly heavier than straight water. Better to use just water with antifreeze. Not corrosive and nearly as much weight with no hassle.
I had been wondering about that "no oil change needed" claim, as I've been watching the oil turn dark and slightly gritty over time. And thank you for showing *how* to change the oil; since B&S says "no oil change needed", the operator's manual naturally doesn't say anything about how to do it. Before I use that mower again, I'm changing that oil, and while I'm at it I will also change the air filter and at least check the spark plug. Thank you so much for posting this.
Do these engines have a year warranty on them? Two years, maybe.The typical homeowner that has one of these small mowers won't have over 20 hours on the engine the first year, so anything that breaks after that is not B&S' problem.
I made good on this comment today - better late than never, I guess. I mowed the lawn twice without refueling in order to use up all the gasoline in the tank (which I would have done anyway due to the new season, despite my religious use of fuel stabilizer, but was doubly important this time around because the oil change procedure for my mower's engine is messy enough as it is, and it's worse if there's gas in the tank). I went to look up the oil change procedure while the engine cooled down, and then proceeded to drain the oil. As Chicanic predicted, it. was. FILTHY! Since I then needed to run out for more oil, and the mower had been running roughly anyway, I decided that it was a good time to take care of some more basic maintenance. With that in mind, I removed the spark plug and the blade and put them in my bag for reference, strapped my empty gas can to my bicycle's rack (hey, it was a great day for a ride!) and headed out to the home center. I had originally intended to leave the blade for sharpening and pick up a spare, but seeing how badly the old blade was bent by comparing it to the shape of the new one, I decided to just chuck the old blade and replace it instead. I also bought a new spark plug, oil filter, fresh oil and fuel stabilizer, and on my way home, filled up the gas can with fresh fuel. Got home and installed the new parts, filled the crankcase with fresh oil, gassed up the mower, pulled the starter a bunch of times... and realized, after it failed to start, that I'd forgotten to reconnect the spark plug (silly me!). Reconnected the plug, put my tools away to give the excess fuel a few minutes to drain out of the cylinder and this time started the mower successfully. My previously rough, vibrate-y mower was now running smoothly and purring like a kitten. Well, OK, a very loud kitten with a really dangerous "claw' underneath, but you get the picture.😁The mower sailed through the task of finishing off the lawn, and my arms were a lot happier without all that vibration, which had undoubtedly been due at least as much to the misshapen old blade as it was to my now-rectified neglect of the engine. My mower and I both thank you, Chicanic, for providing the necessary kick in the pants to get this done.
TY for the video young Lady 😊
My briggs and stratton was manufactured in 2004 and I finally changed the oil last week. I love it, it's easy to work on and it's so light that it needs no propulsion.
I would love to see an oil analysis done on these mowers.
Amasoil sells a kit to extract and test the oil. Full synthetic for mowers with an oil additive?
Why, you still need convinced of the obviousness?
@@stinkycheese804 not to be convinced, but to just see whats in the oil
@@MLenninger/videos You need the zinc additive since they use flat tappets. Car engine oil has had that removed.
@@stinkycheese804 Gives another perspective to what’s going on. Nothing to do with changing minds.
When I was young, I remember reading an advertisement (Pennzoil, I think) that referred to the crankcase as the garbage pit of the engine. One of the few marketing blathers I've encountered that actually made sense. On the other hand "no oil changes" is pure, 100% marketing blather. But then I guess you could say that the oil lasts the life of the engine.
As an Engineman in the USCG,they taught us "oil never wears out, it becomes diluted or polluted", so our ship engine oils were tested each watch with a viscosimeter.
My lawn tractor has water and alcohol filled tires for weight, plus some barbell weights. That, and large atv tires, doubled the traction!
Can't imagine why Briggs is closing a lot of they're plants!!
'Cause customers have got upset.
I’ve been a mechanic all my life I’m 62 , And you’re telling the truth 😎😇😊keep it up your helping people out Thanks
It annoys me seeing Husqvarna put these engines into their products. It used to be a highly regarded brand of mowers and etc.
I have looked at every Gas engine manual product that I own From snow blower to lawn mower to generator . And all the manuals recommend Synthetic oil ! And that's exactly what I use !
My grandmother had an old B&S engine for probably 15+ years. She didn't know to change the oil. When I got old enough, I drained the pain out and put new oil in. It lasted probably another 5 years then finally wore out. She had a HUGE lot that she mowed. Really, she should have had a riding mower, but she did it with a push mower.
Briggs and Stratton's strategy is clever because the equipment the engine is bolted to won't last 10 years anyway.
My Honda powered (properly serviced) push mower runs perfectly. The deck has rust perforations and will be the determining end of life factor.
Many an engine has parted company wth a rotten deck all by itself 🤣
Anything that tosses as much dirt in the air as a lawn mower does at times is EATING IT. the loose tolerances on the fittings of most air boxes guarantees plenty of unfiltered air and the sand long with it. This is just another gimmick to sell more mowers.
Remember oh about 25 years ago when GM discovered “ FOREVER” coolant , DEXCOOL!! That one was a complete disaster of dead engines. It was when they were producing one of their best engines too, the 5.3 yet they ate head gaskets like candy. Then suddenly they were all fine and dandy once they changed to 5 years coolant change . I ve got one now 23 years old and runs fine🤔. All these things are nothing but gimmicks to placate Woke nut jobs and or sell more stuff.
@@drizler Plus it seems like nobody mows their own lawn anymore.
@@desotosky1372 Sadly Honda will be discontinuing their mowers this year in the US. The only quality mowers IMO
I had my shop for 50 years and customers finally got too hard to work for. Thrilled to be retired and all I have to do is ck out one of your videos to remind me I made the right decision. Great videos and wish you all the best.
We can't doubt for a moment that you had many jerkwaters enter your shop. But on the other hand, many shops are run by the Three Stooges and they can wear thin too.
So many times I've heard "This would be a lovely business if it wasn't for the customers" 🤔
I retired from the business after 30 years.
I was a distributor service manager for many of those years. I taught dealer service schools for briggs tecumseh Koehler lawnboy and Ariens.
No oil changes just absolutely floors me.
Sounds like a junk it don't fix it mentality.
This is nuts.....
I'm 60 and have never changed the oil or air filter on my mower! I bought it at the Navy Exchange at Pearl Harbor in 1983 and it still works great today. It's a reel mower 😂😂
My older Craftsman mower says the same thing. I tip it over and let the oil out the fill tube.
I noticed ONE old fashioned lawn mower with the air intake tube (and it's cylindrical filter) mounted on the push handle up near the operator.
That is where there is the least flying dust and debris.
Those filters last years.
Any air filtration system with a filter down on the engine needs a prefilter (except the B&S prefilter costs more than the actual filter)!!!!
I love my old Kawasaki 5hp mower with a Baldwin oil filter and an air filter with a cleanable prefilter....
I do an oil change after every cutting season (small lawn)...and air and oil filter every 2 seasons.
The engine is on it's third all aluminium body...the engine performs like it will never die....
remember the Bunton pushmower with "heavy duty long life engine" (Tecumseh) had a vacuum cleaner hose putting the air intake near the handlebar
My Kawasaki 550 Mule has the air intake at the top of the roll cage and draws thru the cage tubing.
Too expensive, makes the mower last longer.
Yesterday fired up my 1971 Allis tiller with 8hp Briggs flathead. Gets used once a year and starts right up, incredibly tunable and serviceable. When you work with it, can see how much it was built to last, who it was made for, and then you realize what we’ve lost. It’s not just that crap is sold today but the way it caters to the throw-away idiot culture versus the mechanically inclined who’ll nurture a machine forever. These machines say alot about the state of society.
So true.
I had a 1965 Snapper lawnmower mower it's still running. It needed oil when it stopped smoking. I gave it to a friend who put a set of rings and it still works fine.
Thanks for this video. I didn’t think I could change the oil on my mower. Now I’ll check and change, and also the dirty air filter.
Girrrlll…you speak my language! I’ve been in the industry for 26 years. I preach pretty much everything word for word that you say. It’s great to know I’m not alone! (We are an Echo dealer too, since 1978)
Thanks Chicky. I'm going to change the oil in my: 3 walk behind mowers, 2 riding mowers, Kubota Tractor, 2 cultivators, 2 generators, 1 stump grinder, and 1 wood chipper in the next two weeks. Thanks for giving me the incentive to get my maintenance done.
I have one of these Just Add Oil mowers. Your video had me check the oil and I found it completely black. Thanks for saving our machine!
Actually, when I was a teen (40 or so years ago), we put water (antifreeze mix) in the rear wheels of my grandfather's Wheel Horse, just like our full-size tractors had - about 2/3 full. I grew up in the Ozarks, and that was how we kept the tractors on all 4 wheels instead of on you. His yard was steep in places so that worked really well to keep it upright. As an added bonus, we could use it and an antique single-bottom plow to lay out garden rows and dig potatoes. That worked really well for years, and was a fast way to dig potatoes.
No-oil-change engines are not an engineering plan, but a marketing plan. And, it is a shame bordering on criminal.
It is sad that we have reached a point where you can’t even trust stickers anymore.
Reached that point when the first stickers were printed
No, this is what most Americans want, less work and more time stuffing their pie holes, I mean America doesnt even make good mower engines anymore.
But wait! I might eat the moisture packet in the beef jerky bag without that label!😂
Thank you, I needed that.
It was obvious since they started their "check and add" crap, same with extended intervals on cars and trucks. Even with an extra filtration system, the oil still gets diluted. Newly subbed, long time watcher.
Yeah two things Ill never believe in regards to oil, "no change" and "Extended change interval (looking at you 10k mile intervals)"
Today with small turbo engines with direct injection, it's even more important to change the oil frequently, not once every 10 - 15 thousand miles.
As a career industrial service mechanic, I agree totally with this video.
I have one of these "new no oil change engines"
The owner's manual says to change the oil after the first 5 hours and every 25 hours after that!!
I'll be changing the oil after the third round about the yard and prior to the start of every season -- had my last mower almost 20 years doing this.... so long the deck finally rusted thru despite trying to keep good enamel on it each season - if the replacement deck didn't cost a much as a new mower I'd have just replaced the deck!
I never believed that. I am shocked that anyone would. Plus, it is easy to change the oil on them.
I think they might work a little more like they say if they had $1.50 pre filter. Just my 2 cents. I always change the oil, regardless of what they say. Great topic!
Jokes on them 90% of people never change oil in a lawn mower.
I wish the corporations and politicians were as honest as you.
I seem to remember that a couple of new mowers including my 12H802 (?) (Quantum) upon the first oil change after just a half hour or so run time exhibited silvery sheen to the drained oil suggesting that the first oil change was getting rid of factory leftovers from the manufacture of the machine. Obviously something to feel better about having got that stuff out.
James Condon recommends
first oil change @ 15 minutes, (to get rid of most coarse/fine debris)
second a@ 30 minutes more (to get rid of some more debris)
and third @ 1 hour more....(to get rid of the last fine manufacturing debris)
then follow a 25 hour change interval or as per manufacturer's recommendation (except of course...ignoring "just add oil" ......
This is similar to that 30 second oil change thing they were doing on John Deere mowers. It always seemed odd to me.
Exactly! Everything is getting left in the bottom. I will tear and engine apart eventually on one to see what's in the pan.
@@Chickanic
Fill the sump with diesel, shake the mower, tip quickly and see what exits through the filler?
Or use a garden sprayer wand with the tip removed to squirt diesel in to flush the bottom of the sump out while the machine is in the tipped over position?
P.S.
Do you recommend running the engine about 30 minutes and then tipping the first oil out to get rid off the worn off metal from the initial "break in " run....
rather than leaving it in the sump to circulate as grinding material?
@@Chickanic I at one time would flush the pan/block on my push mower with a cup of kerosene after draining the oil to get all the bits out. You would be surprised at the stuff that came out, even with regular oil changes. I always used air yhrough the fill tube to get all the kerosene out to prevent dilution of the oil. That mower lasted me just shy of 25 years, nephew hit a brick with it bending the crank so it's time was done. Great video.
Thank you for saying that there is going to be a lot of blown up engines and a lot of dead JD lawn tractors in a few years
That's so crazy you change your cars oil so duh you need to change your mowers oil to. Cost to much money to replace a mower in this crazy world now
Love the stuff at the end, please keep doing it!
The manual for my Troybilt walk behind I bought last year had a small footnote that many people change the oil anyway....common sense indicates oil changes are needed to get contaminents out before new oil goes in.
This video reminded me to go change my oil....
Imagine how much money they saved by not have oil drain plugs.
I saved a fortune in 10 years by never changing the oil in my push mower
@@MrTheHillfolk So you saved $30.
@@SuperBuzzbomb and labor, I've got better things to do than work on some 79$ POS , if it blew up just buy another,push mowers really are disposable.
Why do you even watch this channel?
To drive home your point, next time, send the used oil samples to a testing lab. Dark oil isn't necessarily bad oil, but once you receive a report from the lab showing all the metal, dirt, and the depletion of the oil's additive package, you'll become a believer.
When I was a kid working on golf courses we (unfairly) referred to B&S as "Briggs & Scrapiron" engines. Back then we were all about the old cast iron Kohler engines. Yes, we had to overhaul nearly all of the Kohlers every year. We worked them REALLY hard. They'd all get 25 hour oil changes practically every week.
B&S by me stood for Breaks and Struggle, at least the English version did. When out by it the words were a lot more colourful.
The old IC sleeved engines were tough as square nails.
I love adding marvel mystery oil to the gas and the oil
I was wondering if the angle from B&S was that it leaks/burns oil so fast you end up changing it anyway. No, they just want you buying a new mower more often.
I think they know that the kind of person who would believe them is the same kind of person who would never inspect their blades until one wore out and broke off. As such, its best to sabotage the equipment those people have so that it'll get checked by a professional. Those same kinds of lazy people are also the ones who tend to be the most litigious. In fact, they justify their laziness by vowing to sue any company for expecting them to have common sense.
It will get to the point that it burns so much oil that the customer gets tired of filling it up every use and they junk it or they just stops filling it and it locks up from very low oil in the engine. How many typical homeowners will remember or bother to check the oil anyway?
This is one of the best small engine channels on the youtubes thank you Chickanic
Absolutely awesome video, you're a pleasure to watch.
Keep up the great work
I never knew Jennifer Anniston's little sister was a talented "Chickanic". Love learning stuff from you. Thank you for your videos.
Thank you I am very impressed with your channel. Working extra in Sweden and collecting scrap metal. Broken lawnmowers where the body has rusted away are common. So I fix the engines and sell if possible. Careless owners have often never changed. The oil is silvery from alumumium and iron that comes off blocks and moving parts. So yes, the oil should be changed once a year. Easy job.