Why Did Briggs Stop Making The Flathead Engine?
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- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2024
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Thanks for watching. Why would Briggs and Stratton get rid of their flathead engine? I think I have a few idea.
This video is meant as entertainment, always practice safety.
![How to Fix This Briggs And Stratton Engine With No Compression [EX 550]](/img/1.gif)
My sarcasm tells me they saw the Quantum lasted so long they lost out on sales so they made cheap engines (with lots of plastic parts) and eventually said "never change oil" to absolutely guarantee continued sales... call me cynical.
I think that make a lot of sense
that Q was the high-point of flat head design, right fuel burn, right crankcase breather system, right carb design. There was no reason to ditch the side valve if you require constant speed operation. It's ideal just the way it is.
yep as small engine mechanic iv seen alot of then destroyed buy the no oil change lie then got to explain to customer they destroyed there engine buy not changing the oil it said not to change
I took apart an '87 Tecumseh TVS100 engine that had been scavenged of parts before I got it cheap. I had no idea of the workmanship that was in these old flat heads. Parts for these old engines are abundant, cheap and made in the USA, which is why they should be salvaged as well for future use. The governor gear is nylon while everything else is metal on these engines, minus the seals. If you are looking for affordable upkeep, older B&S and Tecumseh are the way to go!
I totally believe the no oil change deal.
I had a Tecumseh push mower in the 90s that I had 13yrs and never changed the oil, just added it.
Still ran when I gave it away.
Why change oil for a 79$ push mower it basically paid for itself in the 1st year.
Read the Briggs fine print too, it's totally doable.
45mins per cutting every 7-10 days ,for an average 5mo season.
Top off the oil ,change the plug and air filter annually and it's good to go.
I have a 30+ year old flathead 3hp Briggs that was originally on an edger. The engine outlasted the edger and runs so well I couldn't bring myself to throw it away. I put it on an old school mini bike for the grand kid and he loves it. The engine has never been apart in over 30 years, doesn't smoke and still has good compression. That engine may outlast me!
thank you Rich B. These flathead engines are fantastic
I'm still using my dad's Toro lawnmower from the 1980s. My lawnmower guy told me to keep it and keep fixing it as needed because it's better than the new ones. My repaired old machine is better than a new one.
I've got a antique derelict looking Eclipse brand push mower that was left in a shed on my property when I bought the place in the 90s. It has what I assume is it's original flathead Briggs (oil bath air cleaner and all) Judging by old pictures/ads/articles I've found online over the years I've determined the mower is from the mid 1960s. No idea how long it had sat, but it didn't take much to get it running again, and it actually runs pretty good. I'll get it out and mow the yard with it a couple times each summer, usually get some interesting looks from the neighbors likely wondering which pond I pulled it out of... 🤣
I have a old Craftsman mower with a Briggs & Stratton six and a half horsepower on it so far it's 16 years old it is an overhead-valve design but roughly seven years ago I found it at a junkyard me and him pulled it out of the junkyard and took it back to a shop where the only things we had to do to it was change the oil put some fresh gas in it and blow out the air filter and put a new spark plug in and it's been running ever since it always starts on the 2nd pull doesn't smoke and the only thing I've had to do to it over the last seven years is put a new air filter in do the necessary oil changes and just because I wanted to I put some Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer in it and I swear that engine is outliving its own body because I've had to flee rebuild the self-propelled system on the body switch out the blade and a bunch of the cables have already broke on it but personally I think the best parts about it is the engine actually has a variable throttle and variable self-propelled speed because the throttle adjustment can influence the governor on the engine and the self-propelled adjustment actually adjusts a CVT belt pulley attached to the engine crankshaft to adjust the speed
Mini bike for the grand kid...you sound like a good grandpa.
I once found a push mower with a flathead out in a field. The tank was surprisingly clean. Replaced the rusted-away muffler, added fuel and it started and ran. Went through the carb and used that mower several seasons before parking it. I’m sure it would run again if I needed it.
that's an amazing engine!
Had one the lawnmower tore itself apart everything was zip ties except for the blade assembly. Quit using it after the pull start spring assembly snapped. It was 33 years old 😁
very nice
We had a “motor blow” contest at a stag party and had 3 flatties to run. With the throttles pinned over (bypassing the Governor) they just ran and ram and wouldn’t quit. The pulse jet carburetor is quite an amazing thing as well. It was so simple that it was genius.
so I've heard.
Are you talking about lawn mowers or "something else!!!"
I have an old mower with the pulse-jet carb and a breaker-point ignition system. Love that old mower!
Maybe they were newer more beefier designs, or the carbs are a bit smaller to limit the rpm. I knew many folks that have done exactly that in the late 60's and early 70's and it resulted in a broken connecting rod.
FYI, the correct trademark was/is Pulsa-Jet (not positive if it must have the dash). They were an ingenious design, as mentioned in the thread.
A briggs sales rep once told me that old machines were designed around their flathead engines but alot of newer machines are designed around honda engines. Certain applications, unlike a push mower, are not exactly tight, but others might have to be designed around the dimensions of a Briggs flathead or a Honda GX. Therefore Briggs redesigned their motors to share the same dimensions as the GX series in order to fit the same applications.
thank you trailduster6bt I like this comment.
I have dug 1970s flatheads out of barns and sheds and got them running easily and relatively cheaply.
One thing to remember is the oldies do not like ethanol fuels, even the new engines need totally drained for more than a few weeks storage.
Otherwise a carb strip and clean will be required to get the engine to start and run properly.
you are correct!
I don't know since ethanol is just plain old alcool it should be plasric-friendly. It will chemically react with cast aluminum carbs though and produce that carb passages clogging gel. Mind you, there are other fuel additives like benzenes that may cause problems with plastics and gaskets so newer fuels aren't very tolerant towards small engines and it does indeed degrade very rapidly ! Regards
I don’t fret over the ethanol, especially since it’s getting harder around here to find gas without. I just mix 2 ounces per gallon of Seafoam in fresh gas and call it a day. No issues.
If you leave ethanol in the carb for long periods of time it will cause corrosion too
@@danielrobert7181 The problem with ethanol is that it is hydrophilic, it attracts water. It is the water in the system that wreaks havoc in many engines.
My flat head has now been in service for 41 years. I change the oil and clean the air filter once a year. I drain all the gas out at seasons end. I did upgrade the carberator as the old plastic one was warn out and upgraded to electronic ignition. It still runs great and doesn't use more oil than when new.
nice work Mike Fennema!
I remember for a few years during the OHV/OHC engine phase in, you could find a lot of the "economy" mowers with L-head/flat head engines. It bugs me that my Troy Bilt mower doesn't have a drain plug. Either flip the whole thing over or use a fluid transfer pump to change oil. Older mowers just seem to run forever. Accidentally seize it? Give it a few hours to cool down and you might have a chance of it starting back up.
yes you're correct, they're a beast and last a long time.
Very good video. The good old days are dying slowly. I could not imagine restoring a plastic carburated Briggs 20 years down the road. Thanks for making some very good comparisons (before and after) and revealing the facts.
I never thought about that, but it's true!
I haven't used a new style, but the flatheads are pretty tough. Pulled one out of a barn, it was used for 25-30 years, sat for another 25-30 years, and within a day of working on it l had it running.
nice! that's quality!
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE And TYPICAL!
Same. The house I bought the guy left all the stuff with us including the mowers. After a day on working on the old brigs engine it was running and hadn’t run in 5 years before that
@@andrewharris9302 About the only way they won't run is if they ruined the block by no oil, as in a broke rod and a hole in the block. They may smoke some but the more they run, the better they get, up to a point of course. Rings and bearing surfaces don't pour out of a can, no matter what the can instruction reads.
You are dead on with your assessment. As for the oil change issue, check out a channel called "Teryl Fixes All" He did a video explaining why Briggs went to the "no oil change" engines. I unhappily own an Intek engine, and am in the process of replacing it with a Vanguard on my JD lawn tractor. For the question of what I prefer, I personally prefer the old flathead engines.
I like the older Briggs engines. Simple design, & easy to look after. The biggest I had was on a Pace forward mower. These mowers were a true work of art. They were a self propelled mower, but had no rear wheels. The gearbox drove 2 rollers, yet the discharge chute was at the rear, & very big. This thing was built to mow huge areas. Excellent mower.
than you Christopher Marshall.
Never seen a mower on rollers that sounds pretty cool actually
@@GarrettMedicFennec thanks. These were a real work of art. Even the catcher had wheels under it at the back.
@@christophermarshall5765 never see something like that again feels like rollers would give a more consistent cut height
Definitely would go for one of the Older Briggs engines. The Classics and the Flatheads were both solid high-quality engines. I did not find any of their Flatheads to be lacking in terms of power, not that you need a whole lot to cut grass anyway. Those engines were pretty low maintenance, and would run for 30 years if you do take care of them. Always left gas in mine for the winter and never had a starting issue.
If I had to choose something brand new right now, I'd actually go Kohler. They seem to be well made, have good torque, and can also last quite a while if you take care of them. The Carbs seem to clog up a little easier, but they are easy enough to service.
interesting choice.
If you leave gas in it, it's better to have the tank completely full. The worst thing is to put it away with just a little gas in the bottom of the tank. Gas lasts much longer, if there's minimum dead air space in the fuel tank. The real problem is if the carburetor dries out, leaving behind the varnish and residue, which can clog jets, emulsion tubes, and idle circuits. You either want to keep it full of liquid fuel, or, you want to completely run the float bowl out of fuel, by running the engine until it quits. I even put on the choke, and try starting again, just to vacuum the liquid fuel out of the idle circuit of the carburetor. Older engines don't have fuel shut-off valves, so the practical thing is to keep it full, or, run it completely out before storing.
Gas - yes....Corn juice NO!
@@jerseyjoe9393 Not really supposed to use corn juice in lawn mower engines anyway. Never seen one that allows it. Maybe there's something out there, but even then it's probably better to stick to regular gas.
I collect and restore old briggs flatheads. Currently restoring a 2.5 hp horizontal shaft from 1973. Have one of them on a minibike. Absolutely love'em. Can't kill them.
very nice, thank you Super 225
I have several of the old flatheads as well. All restored and running great!
very nice!
I have 2 5S cast irons from the 1950’s. One ran a water pump and another a table,saw for 25 years at a camp without electricity. I know if I filled the tanks they’s be running with a couple of (rope wind) pulls!
The new engine blocks are very thin metal in the sump and the carbonators are jetted so lean that if the gas is old it will not run , it will in the flat head . Quality is not a priority only after profit only .
yes all correct, and it sad to see, that's where We're going Thank you Chris's small engines
what the hell is a carbonater??? That right next to the wampus rod???
Don't ask, but I've been running 18 year old gas in my mower and snow thrower. It doesn't smell like gas or even taste like gas but it is and I have about 15 gallons of it left. One guy even told me the exhaust smells funny.
@@bultacowally ask Willy Wonka, he'd know for sure.
@@jwwalker688 Pour that stuff in a newer engine and it will not run . I have seen it with my own two eyes . Try it for yourself . The older engines will burn it the newer one will not .
The new ones also use a lot less fuel. My 18 year old OHV B&S just died due to the main seal failing but had been bulletproof before that.
nice, those older ones are great engines.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE just replace the main seal. easy job.
My very first push mower!! I've learned on I bought at a yard sale!! For five bucks when was 10 years old took it home it ran.. it was a 1970.. 3.5hp briggs and stratton white engine colored green deck montgomery wards brand I use to take all apart and study the working internal parts and put it back together it would run good as new!! I think I still have it at DAD'S place in the shop so I like the old school flat heads and the overhead valves!! As long as it's a briggs and stratton engine or Hondas I work on all brands two and 4cycles engines even the little diesel small engines as well.. good topic I.H.G
thank you JJ Juarez!
My first working mower was a 1962 21" 2-stroke Lawn-Boy, given to me in 1970 by a friend's parents when they moved away. Very powerful, with a huge under-deck muffler, for, a pleasant humming sound, compared to the typical dinky-muffler flathead mowers of the day. It also had a very light magnesium-alloy deck that made it easy to handle.
Cool story JJ!
The flat heads were tough but i got to go with the newer over head valve engine it makes mowing a breeze it has alot more power and burns way less fuel.. our old mower just bogs if u let the grass grow an extra week the newer one just powers through.. i think the EPA put the sqeeze on every manufacturer and they had to comply coupled with raising ethonal levels in fuels the carbs are calibrated to give a clean burn but now the jet orifice are tiny which clog easily if not maintained properly
I see your point
I have an old 5hp rider from the mid 70's that I run slightly rich so it wouldn't bog down as much. I also converted the points ignition to solid state for better starting and reliability. Carb is the old pulsa jet with needle adjustments, heavy cast iron flywheel, vertical shaft.
You nailed it, sir. Couldn't have said better myself.
The only good thing I have to say about those new engines is that the carburetor is pretty easy to open up, remove the jets and clean, you really don't even have to remove it from the mower in some cases, and the drain plug on the bottom of most of them is a nice touch. You will certainly need it as these things always get gummed up after sitting for more than a few weeks.
you are absolutely right, thank you Walter Knox.
I have a Briggs lawnmower from 1976 with a flathead, the original ignition coil went bad last year so I put a newer coil on and still runs. Compared to a new flathead Briggs engine they never really changed anything on it except the carb
sounds about right, thank you Devon Ferguson.
One thing I've noticed compared old vs new is the old flathead motors especially the cast-iron motors with the cast-iron flywheel ran smoother and quieter.
that's seems to be the consensus
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE yet our testing showed otherwise. Though engines with the cast flywheel did run smoother they were also heavier. The muffler on the new engines was due to noise limits particularly in Europe. The noise restrictions in the EU were a bigger challenge than the emissions in California.
the cast iron "B&S" engines were built to last, and were designed to be rebuilt!!!!
I feel like 2 things that seem to be rarely discussed (and one of them is major!) are these! Most people part car oil in their lawnmowers. Car oil is designed for water cooled engines. Lawnmowers are typically air cooled. The operating temperature of a water cooled engine and an air cooled engine are dramatically different. Multiply that concept by a hot sunny day and I am sure you get the idea. Also back in the day when they mostly had foam air cleaners nobody seemed to want to ever wash them. A third small thing is this: the blades come from the manufacturer sharp. Most owners never seem to want to keep them sharpened. Needless to say that with a sharper blade the stress on the motor is a lot less.
you bring up a good point, but some brands never state to use oil designed for oil cooling. Although it could be part of planned obsolescence too
Honda for example clearly states that any automotive 10w30 conventional motor oil is okay to use in their engines.. so that blows away your oil theory, buddy..🙂
I'm a Quality Analyst at Briggs. I only deal with the riding mower engines, but I'll try to give some insight. Less fasteners is absolutely amazing from a manufacturing standpoint, it's so much less headache. One of the biggest problems you deal with is missing bolts, bolts not torqued enough, wrong bolts, defective bolts, stripped bolts, and bolts dropped into the engine (usually getting into the flywheel and causing catastrophic damage during the run test). The less fasteners they have to worry about, the better. Also, OHV is indeed a nightmare to manufacture compared to flathead. The complexity of the heads adds a whole new layer of things that can go wrong during casting and machining (I am VERY well acquainted), and setting Valve Lash on the rockers is easy to screw up and we've not been able to successfully automate it on my side. But I definitely think emissions really had the biggest share of the reason, Briggs isn't a company that chomps at the bit to do new things, rather they tend more toward stagnation, change happens slowly. My guess is it was more necessity than innovation, but I could be wrong. I don't know much about what pre-bankruptcy Briggs was like.
thank you Hedge Earthridge for your time and insight.
The Japanese and now the Chinese are simply doing a better job, i dont blame the workers, mainly the management
my grandpa bought a brand new honda mower in the mid 90's and he mowed around the whole house with it for 15 years with no issues, he then taught me how to use it and I continued mowing their lawn with that same mower for the next 10 years. Both my grandparents have passed away now but the mower still works and my cousin took it for her house and 3 years later, its still going. Its had its oil changed every season, new spark plugs a couple times, basic maintenance stuff. It's been working every summer, longer than I've been alive. I don't think you'll find any mower now that will do that.
very nice ,good maintenance goes far!
I second that the Old Briggs were invincible! At 11 (58 today) I would fix and sell push mowers. Few people had riding mowers. We had leaded gas, and it lasted 67 years, even when it smelled bad, it would run. They had Points and Condensers then. So, I bought a tune up kit, with plug, points, condenser, for about $3-$5. I bought a diaphragm for $2. I used Valve lapping compound to do the valves. Then, I would clean and paint the mowers. I would go to a part store that sold car paint, and get there mess ups. Sometimes I had to buy it, other times they gave it to me, because I also fixed cars and bought parts there. But, they saw an 11-12 year old kid doing something and supported me. I painted my first truck at 12. I bought a $150 paint gun from that part store. I saved for 6 months. In 76, that's a lot of money.
But, one week, I'd have 4-6 mowers for sale. Maybe all green, maybe Orange. The color of the week. I painted the engines white or black engine enamel. I sold them for $45. But, I gave $5 for trade in's, which were painted and for sale next week. I made them look good. I sanded the frames and engines. They looked pretty good for a kid. A new mower was $200-$500. I sold everyone I put out. But my dad made me mow our yard enough to know it ran good. Sneaky fella he was. By the time I tested all my mowers, the yard was mowed. That was between all the kinfolks cars I tuned and changed oil in, valve jobs, timing chains, brakes. He kept me busy, but I loved it.
O, and I later built myself a successful Automotive Collision Center.
very nice, thank you Jeff Campbell for the story and your time.
Imagine doing that today, you'd be stopped buying paint when they ask for your ID lmao
I have 2 flatheads. One I've had about 24 years. It's went through 3 decks & ready for a 4th. I've got another one I've had for about 10 years. I've never had any problems with the carburetors. I've had 4 or 5 of the newer ohv type, had to clean the carburetor on every one to get them to run. The ohv type has more power, not as easy to bog down when pushing fast. I like both styles but the older ones require less maintenance to get them to run. I've never had a plastic carburetor yet.
thank you Robert Williams
Where can I get a deck I have a flathead that needs a deck
@@edwardzamorski3711 I got lucky & bought 2 decks from a liquidator when Murray first went out of business. Decks are hard to find unless you can find one where somebody has a bad motor. Then you have to measure the length of the motor shaft on both mowers or do a lot of rigging. A repair shop might have one, good luck.
My grandfather has an old mower which was made in the 1980's. I kid you not, that mower was first used in commercial use, than bought by my grandfather and it STILL runs great and had about one oil change throughout the past 30 years. These old B&S engines will outlast us all!
that's pretty amazing
I have a nice 70’s john deere mower with a briggs&stratton flathead. Runs like new still and I can’t recall anything but maintenance in the last few decades.
very nice, thank you Chad Markle.
I always liked the simplicity of the Briggs flatheads. I do not have any of those around anymore. Have two older mowers with Tecumseh engines which seem to work OK. One was a curb find that just needed some TLC. One on my neighbors got an electric mower last year and it does not appeal to me. I am not sure I could ever get used to mowing a lawn without the sound and smell of a gasoline engine.
agree, I love the smell of small engines in use.
I am a mechanic and my preferred mower for my personal ise is still an 80s Snapper with a B&S flathead on it. Snapper honestly jad one of the best rear bagger designs I have used and the good ole flathead just refuses to die.
thank you Oengus Fearghas
You can't beat those Snappers ! I have 2 rear engine riders 1974 Comet , & a 2010 , 2 walk behinds self propelled a 1985 , & a 1990 As there slogan use be it's a snap with a Snapper !
@@ACF6180T So far is their walk behind units I love them for the rear bagger setup. Sometimes referred to as a top bagger. It's about the only bagger design that I've ever used where you don't have to shake the hell out of the bag trying to get the grass back out when you're emptying it. Seriously why don't other companies follow that sort of a design idea.
@@oengusfearghas9608 I don't why they don't ! I was told 45 years ago by my ex father in law if your going to buy a mower ! Buy a Snapper you wont regret it ! & I did just that !, & I have no regrets ! I still own the one I bought in 1985 brand new with a newer engine , & other new parts ! as the parts wear out I fix it because it's cheaper than buying a new one !
@@ACF6180T I effectively have twin machines that way I have one set as side discharge and the other as a bagger. One of them currently has a newer engine because the original was vapor-locking among other issues. I plan to eventually get it operating correctly again but as a mechanic whom works on this equipment allot it was silly easy to just snag another engine from a newer mower with a rotted deck.
I have an old brigs on a riding mower. It's 12hp and about 50 years old. My family has used it since new and in all that time, it's needed the carb rebuilt a few times and 1 new head gasket. They really do last a life time.
yes, with some care, they will last a very long time. Thank you Cub 100.
unfortunately such great reliability also means fewer sales for the company. companies exist to make money so updated designs that don't last long are the new norm
that is a cast iron engine, never let that one get away from you!!!. those cast iron "B&S" engines are built to last, and were designed to be rebuilt
Companies want disposable products in order to produce more revenue. Hence, the birth of the CVT transmission with no dipstick!
yes you are correct
.....I swap out customers engines on their mowers that they have destroyed with Briggs and Stratton 3.5 hp flat heads......I make them fit....they go away happy, not had one fail yet
nice work!
"So foolish" Nailed it ✔️💯💪🏽
thanks!
Thanks for a very helpful video. I now know how to strip and clean the carb on my 550e engined Husqvarna. Regards from UK.
no problem and thank you Chris Pemberton
I love the old flathead quantums, but these newer Briggs aren't bad after a few simple mods. I drill out the brass main jet just slightly and install an inline fuel filter. Keep your oil changed too and you'll be fine.
The old quantums were most likely phased out for emissions and fuel efficiency reasons.
thank you Dave Stout
I use B&S mowers with the flat head and older carb. I love them. With what I have seen here, I'll stick with the older engine. I have two of them and both run great with no issues. One or two pulls and it's running. I have no real issue with a well-made OHV engine as long as it is dependable year after year but the quality has to go in, to get my respect for that type of engine as well as its brand name. B&S was a name anyone could depend on and know they bought a high quality product that would last for many years if taken care of properly. After watching this video, I may have to back off in telling folks they are able to depend on a B&S mower's engine. I'll be long gone before the old flat head versions have disappeared and no longer available (including replacement parts). People have to watch out when buying equipment that can easily fail them in a short amount of time and require special equipment to do repairs to the inner parts of the engine like piston removal. Some are just not worth the money tearing the engine down and is more a throw away scrap. Carboned up rings can make an engine useless, and even more, you can't get the piston out to either clean the rings or replace them, unless you have the right equipment to do so. That means a trip to the GURI SHOP that charges a lot to fix them. Least with the older briggs, you can fix everything with the tools you have, if you have a full set to work with that can be bought at any hardware store. It seems companies now days are getting very greedy and depend more on you destroying your engine than having it runn properly for many years and depend on it working right when you pull the cord. It seems that B&S can't depend on customers buying their product because of the many years of quality they give. Seems they have gone CHEAP as well as greedy. Hate saying that, but I guess that's how the world turns when greed takes over. From what I have seen here, I won't recommend B&S mowers in the future (least not the newer ones).It's sad.
it would seem like it. Money has funny way, of making people want more of it.
I agree. Briggs & Stratton engines have become a casualty of low-cost production and will never be the same again. The "never change oil" really adds up to a company that has let its standards drop to make customers feel like it's somehow gotten better. PF just did a comparison of engines and Briggs finished last in most categories, which was really the tipping point for me.
I grew up with the old flat head engines. We had quite a few over the years on the farm. They would most always out last the decks. I definitely prefer the flathead engine. Always enjoyed working on them as a kid. I have the newer ones now that say you never have to change the oil hogwash I just suck it out with a little pump and change it every year.
me too, they aren't going to get me with that one.
The air cleaner and sparkplug get replaced each year as well?
I had a mower with this engine for 3 or 4 years and it ran great. All I had to do was winterize it properly and I changed the oil through the drain plug yearly. Still ran like new when we moved out. Shows how far good maintenance goes. same applies to cars.
you are correct, it'a amazing with a little maintenance and do.
I have 2 B & S mowers with the flat head. One is a 1992 Snapper with an aluminum deck which has never given me any problems. I change oil when gets dirty and use Stabil in the gas. If it hasn't been started in a few months, one squirt of starter fluid near the air cleaner gets it going instantly 🤣 The other is a much newer Troybilt that a neighbor had left at the curb because the self propell mechanism was broken, but otherwise was like new. I converted it to a push mower and it works great. Thanks for the great video 👍👍🙏
thank you for sharing your story Johnnie Hall!
Interesting design on that carb... I hadn't pulled one apart yet.
While most people hate plastic, that design at least won't corrode.
very true, I believe it was designed with ethanol fuel in mind.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE It'll never run the same again. You wrecked the jet by cleaning it with a wire. No matter how careful you think you were, you scratched the bore. Plastic bristles and carb cleaner are a better way to go.
I'll take corrosion over brittle, crumbling plastic any day!
@@AgentJayZ it's a brass jet, it isn't THAT sensitive.
If you've ever drilled a jet out you have to remove physically visible material to make a difference. A bit of smooth wire won't make a darn difference.
As much as I like flatheads I also much prefer the ease of adjustable valve lash and the tuning characteristics you can easily achieve. I hated these plastic carb junk engines at first until I realized how easy they are to get running. I'm actually rebuilding one now for an edger someone threw away without spending a dime. Even the oil I'm using is used.
Edit: Better enjoy ICE powered mowers while you can. Honda has already stopped production of push mowers with ICE power.
I appreciate your comment.
Fortunately, there are plenty of Honda ICE-powered mowers floating around. I'm using a Honda-powered Troy-Bilt I rescued from someone's trash a few years ago. And I've never had to adjust the valve-lash on a flathead.
Valve adjustment on a flathead is a pain compared to rocker valves.
@@eugeneoreilly9356
I've never adjusted the valves.on any of my flathead mowers. None of the ones I've had apart, even had an adjuster for the valves. I believe, if there was a major valve adjustment problem on a flathead, the valve or cam-tappet had to be removed and replaced or ground shorter, depending on if the clearance was too big or too small.
@@sunbeam8866 yip,usual way was to grind the valve stem.
Love it. Very informative as well.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey bro what's up? My choice would be older equipment because of the durability and performance of those equipment. A lot of people are considering using battery operated tools and I like some of them but I'm not a fan of them all. Gas tools are best when you have lots of area to cover within a short space of time whereas battery operated can be used in a domestic manner where the work load is less and it wouldn't take away time from you in order to get the batteries recharged.
I like how you explained the battery power.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE thanks bro. That's the sad reality we're living in.
Hi, I think it really depends on the points of view. I've been lucky enough to have both the 35 classic flathead and the 550 e series. I don't know why but I think that the petrol that comes to Italy is different, in all my life I have never found any type of deposit in the carburetors after months and in some cases even a year. another important thing is that the 550 consumes much less than the 35. in my opinion with the oil changes on time even the new ones are just as fantastic as the old style ones. The only extra operation is the valve clearance. if I have to be honest, I have to admit that maybe the metal tank and recoil assembly seem more resistant but unless you do it on purpose I think it's difficult to ruin them. Regarding the petrol issue, on the 35 classic I had to change the membranes a couple of times. I have to admit though that in my opinion we are all very fond of the old style briggs but it's a matter of time.
thank you for the information Ste_B.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE It’s a pleasure, I just wanted to share my experience, I really like this kind of videos
Perhaps Europe doesn't use Gasahol .
@@sunbeam8866 We have ethanol in the gas too, but we have much higher quality of fuel the standard gasoline in Europe gas 95 oktan in the USA only 87.
Same goes with the Additives, it dont go bad even after a few years
@@jonasstahl9826 different octane scales, the US uses AKI, rest of the world uses RON or MON. Pretty much subtract 5 from the RON octane number and you have the equivalent of the US octane
Our lawnmower is a 24 year old Craftsman with a Briggs flathead. My dad bought it at Sears when they bought the house. Still starts on one pull even on the over 1 year old gasoline I accidentally threw into it one time. It is a tank of a lawnmower and I hope it never dies because
nice
Hi there! I continued to like your videos. You’re very informative. I have a lawnmower with each of those engines one is the Troy-Built XP with the 175 cc OHV engine from around 2010 and the other is this the 190 cc Briggs flathead on a Husqvarna motor that was built in 1999. They both run fantastic! I do change the oil in my machines and run the carburetors dry before storage. Neither one of them have plastic carburetors, but if they did, I can guarantee you I would have no issues because I would run them dry before Storage. That is the key with these machines, plastic or metal. I love the toughness of the quantum, but I love the efficiency and the power of the newer OHV engines.
me too, and I totally agree with you.
I loved the old Intek engines for their horsepower on my push Snappers. After 10 years, I had to go to the Pro engines, they're not as strong as the Intek
I appreciate the information.
That plastic infected style engine doesn't bother me as much as the plastic nose and tail frame pieces. That sees the most abuse. I buy older junk mowers for the all metal frame and do engine swaps.
I agree, the plastic for the front and back, really hurts the mower.
Thanks again! I learned somethin’ new, didn’t know that the center piece of the emulsion tube separates! I’ve cleaned these carbs before but this is fascinating! I will Definitely do a thorough tear down on my next maintenance run! Keep those great videos comin’! As far as them axing the drain plug to make it difficult to change oil, I just use an oil siphon to suck out the old oil into a holding tank and then use a funnel to pour in fresh oil! They can shove it with their no oil change gimmick! No engine will last with that strategy and that’s what they’re bankin’ on!
thank you and no problem!
Old gas is the first thing I eliminate. So many times my problems went away with fresh gas.
Great video.
you are correct and thank you Noah Spurrier
Briggs was very good before the 1970's and into the 1990's. After that Honda came along and stole the show. Late 70's and late 80's I was in the Waukesha WI plant floor/engineering dept repairing typewriters. I have been on countless manufacturing floors and design departments through my field service days in Typewriters and computers. Brigg's of course was one of the best but you really have to decide if you want to sell more or the best. I think companies sometimes make poor decisions with that choice. Would have I purchased a fuel injected Brigg's if they had offered one in a lawn mower, well it would have been really really tempting but a Honda is a Honda. Something from google which really does fall into line. Why did Briggs and Stratton fail?
While corporate executives who preside over failure often find someone else to blame, Briggs' demise has, in reality, directly resulted from its executives' mismanagement, greed and pathological animosity towards the unionized workers who had made them rich. Reprinted with permission of Wisconsin Examiner.Sep 28, 2020
thank you
This is a very interesting video. IMHO, the average homeowner just wants a mower that he/she can fill with gasoline, turn on the power switch, and get it started and get the lawn done as quickly as possible. At that point , the mower is put aside (probably on the side of the owners home) and left until it is needed again. Most homeowner mowers will rarely if ever; receive an oil change, have old fuel drained from the tank, air filter changed, deck cleaned, blade sharpened, wheels lubricated, etc. That said, the new OHV Briggs may suffice for a season or two, but once that mini-main-jet clogs, most homeowners either contract with a lawn service, or go out a buy a new mower. The old flatheads, especially with the old in-tank carbs, will take abuse that no currently manufactured mower can sustain. The old flatheads will even run with significant amounts of water in the tank. The point I'm trying to make here; average homeowners just want to get things done with the least amount of time and fuss, the older flathead Briggs engines are just tough to beat when it comes to that. Unfortunately, those days are gone, and now homeowners will have to become much, much more careful about how they maintain their mowers. Putting aside my soap box now, just want to say, this is another excellent video, keep up the great work.
well said!
Less is more! 🙂
Everything you said was spot on. It boils down to personal preferance. I have been a Brigs fan since 1953 when my dad bought our first power mower with a 3 1/2 hp engine and front wheel drive. He was still using it in 1990 when I visited him. I miss that old lawn mower almost as much as I miss Dad. LOL I don't mind the plastic carb but the same jet does get plugged for no apparant reason, and I wieh I knew the reason for it. And the newer engines do start easy, and are more powerful. Happy camper here.
thank you Dave, I appreciate you sharing your experience with us.
Recent subscriber I appreciate your content thanks 👍
Thanks for the sub!
I really like the old flatheads but their time has come and gone. The newer style engines are good as long as they are taken care of, plus they are more fuel efficient and run cooler (and easier to work on too). I do wish they’d stop all the “never change the oil” bs though.
I agree.
Just change the oil. They only put that there so it would look more desirable to people who don't like maintenaning engines. You can however get away with skipping oil changes in this engine if you use the premium long life 5w30 fully synthetic oils Briggs and Stratton and other manufacturers sell.
Quieter too.
Flatheads were good for what they are. But I'll take OHV anyday.
Might be worth mentioning - Briggs sells a vacuum pump. I bought it on Amazon to suck the power steering fluid through to get clear fluid. I was surprised when it arrived it was a Genuine Briggs & Stratton vacuum pump. It's a nice little pump. I use it for brake fluid too. All I had to do is use a rubber windshield hose and it fits perfectly.
I think they want people to use that pump to suck out oil.
The EX motors just aren't as sturdy as the older Quantum motors were.
It's also the Quantum being the end of the line, they perfected the side valve when they built it, whereas the OHV adds another maintenance task where there was none.
B&S took a step backwards, in quality & longevity, & hoped nobody noticed. But the Quantums are still out here, proving the later design inferior. lol.
@Tim Ewa They really are. You made a good point, they perfected a design, then ditched it in favor of a lesser motor. I am sure the EPA had something to do with it.
agreed
The last auto-choke version was brain damage, WHY change from primer??
@LOT 6 I dunno, it can be a little work to get it exactly right, but when they are right, the Quantum is the easiest mower out there to start.
My UK branded Qualcast mower has the 160cc version of this engine, same build year 2016.
Running on straight pump gas, Mine has never failed to start in 6 years but i do always empty the fuel tank before winter storage.
you're doing a fantastic job, of maintaining it.
You are just getting the ethanol fuel there and you may soon discover issues we have been dealing with for decades now.
@@archiedentone5950 we have had ethanol blended fuel for a lot of years, last year we saw a change from 5% to 10% ethanol content.
I've had a 163 for 3 seasons and I'm sold. Compared to my memory of pushing Briggs equipped mowers in the 1970's (for other people) which I hated, and the Lawn Boy my parents owned (which I liked) the light weight and solid power of these new engines reminds me of the Lawn Boy's power to weight. Every Briggs was just pushed into a corner after use and to my knowledge none of them were well-maintained so they all had their own special incantation to get them started and most of them had some sort of personality in how they ran. These new ones are a different experience- they either start and run great or they don't and there is a very specific issue to fix. Keeping the valve lash in spec and the float bowl clean seems to be all mine needs to start on the first pull every time. Making a carb that can be replaced with two socket drivers and $15 is an accomplishment.
Wow, I like this comment a lot!
I always was annoyed, how gas guzzling these old flatheds have been. You never could have enough gas in stock. But, yes, you're probably right, thinking back, it is possible, that the starting problems after a relatively short time of storage occurred with the OHV-engines. But then, not certain, because since then we also have this bioethanol-addition to our gas. At least here in Europe. And i'm unaware of having these glaze like residues inside the carbs in the 70s or 80s like we commonly have today. And we worked on carbs daily back then.
I highly doubt, that a flathead wins in fuel efficiency with injection due to the terrible combustionchamber design.
yes you make a good point about the combustion chamber design. It was never going to win in efficiency or making less pollution.
I think you’re underestimating just how inefficient carburettors are, particularly the cheap and nasty ones that are commonly employed. You also may not have considered the advantages of an electronically controlled ignition system which would be integral to the fuel injection ecu.
It’s actually not difficult nor expensive to build your own fuel injection setup using scavenged parts, and I’ve run flatheads this way, albeit as stationary engines. The fuel economy is incomparably better whilst the output power gets a very healthy boost too. I have zero doubts that it would outperform a similarly sized, carburettor equipped OHV engine, although modifying an OHV model in the same way yields, predictably, even better results.
@@anhedonianepiphany5588
All my generators are or were carburator engines without fuel injection or electronic ignition.
I like to keep it simple.
Especially with SHTF stuff.
The flatheads were Briggs & Stratton, the later ohv types were chinese honda rip offs.
Was immediatelly impressed, how much more labour time i got out of the ohv design. Of course there is huge variation in quality with chinese rip offs, fuel consumption vary too.
Also, i must say, it's very easy to reseat valves on an ohv - which is something, a generator needs from time to time. At least the chinese ones. Point for ohv.
In general, i hate the amount of care you have to put into these tiny engines compared to a real one.
Gladly i'm on grid again and my geneators are stowed away. All are non starters now in need of carburator cleanout, i assume.
I have no idea, if fuel injected gas generators would overcome this issue, just did never want to spend extra money for having more electronics.
I'm really pissed with my one inverter generator, because the slightest and shortest overload situation and you have to go out and restart.
Ok, impossible to accidentally burn the generator, but still annoying. Good example for how electronic made the user experience worse.
I do like AVC-modules over mechanical voltage stabilizers though - so much safer for the equipment - but you need spares at hand. They quit suddenly from time to time.
Carburator cleaning is easy and fast and never needed, if you use the generator daily - the real problem with these cheapo chinese ohv is wear and compression loss anyhow.
Longevity of the cast iron Briggs&Stratton industrial grade engine is unrivaled for sure - but they're guzzling a lot too.
I still have an air compressor with a 12hp B&S IE sitting around, just in case.
@@werner.xHow did mechanical voltage stabilizers work?
emission standards
Shouldn't flatheads be easier to run lean because of the lower compression ratio?
This is the correct answer.
if so they held out for a long time.
probably but then they wouldn't make hardly any power.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Yes, exactly, you are correct. The OHV design is better for emissions and can run leaner, but ultimately costs more to make than the flathead design. They did their best to hold out, but they eventually had to switch over to the OHV and find other ways to save money, as the valvetrain costs more to manufacture. That's probably why other areas are more skimped out.
I just purchased a Briggs and Strattan Flathead 450 mower! Which to my epic luck was a flathead model! Very excited to work on it and get it running! :)
you chose very well!
I have two flathead Briggs. 1 is in my old lawnmower and it runs without any problems but does show it's age. That one is a 3hp. My other Briggs is a 12hp single cylinder from the mid to late 60's. All original even with the magneto and generator. Smokes like hell but I love it.
well said, these are great engines!
flat head. 100%.
take care of it, you'll never have to deal with plastique OHV fickle gerbage.
thank you ZX3FPV.
Bought my first house in 1975. It had an old, beat up mower in the garage. Unwilling to spend the money on a new, fancy mower I wire brushed the deck, painted, etc. and changed the oil, cleaned the carb. Briggs, but worn off labeling so I don't know much about it. I mowed my lawn almost every week during the season until 1992 when I moved. Took the mower with me and used it at the new house until I hit a brush hidden pipe in 2010 and bent the shaft. Never smoked or used oil. Good engines.
you got that right, thanks for sharing
I have a Craftsman/Briggs and Stratton mower that was bought new in 07, I took it to a repair shop in a farm supply store since it wasn't working. They told me for a rebuild on the engine, it would be 150 bucks. Cheaper than a new mower so I said do it. A week later they called ,saying they couldn't fix it. I took it to a friend's place and after looking at it, replaced a blown head gasket .I am looking forward to my 15th year with my old mower!
wow, nice one.
Love my old flatheads, my 2006 and 2011 model years are still going strong. I’ve worked on my friends mower with the new engine twice due to the jet getting clogged. Finally added a fuel filter to the line and he hasn’t had any trouble since.
really? Surprised you had enough room, the hose is only 5" long and the gap between the nipples is literally 1.5"
I got the mower that you are working on and after the first winter it wouldn't start. I bought a new carburetor and put a fuel cutoff valve on it. Two years later runs great. Never let fuel sit in the carburetor
Great job Charles Stull
I've owned and repaired quite a few of the older flat head B&S engines, I love the simplicity and reliability. My neighbor's mower, for example, has barely had any upkeep always has old fuel in it and is regularly abused. Still starts and runs every time.
very nice, thankS!
I actually found one of these mowers on the side of the road in the past. I was able to clean the carb jets, the smallest jet was clogged.
Used the metal from a bread tie (coating removed) and cleared it out before blasting it with carb cleaner. It wasn't a difficult thing to do, and there easy to trouble shoot if you have some starter fluid on you.
very nice work!
Electric guitar string wire is both stronger and skinnier and comes in 6 sizes.
I had the same issue on one of these last week that I had leant a friend. I was super impressed with how simple it was to pull apart and rectify the problem. I'm no expert but the old governor springs and throttle linkages surely made the old motors more costly to dismantle for repair time wise if you had to pay to have it done.
thank you for sharing your experience
I have a 1998 KGro Power Pro Riding Law mower with a flat head engine Purchased from K Mart. Other than a belt replacement and a new Carb with Regular Oil change she has run like a champ for over the last 20+ Years! And Still Going strong!!!
Thanks for sharing
I use a lawnmower with a 1986 Briggs 3.5hp and it is a tough engine. I fix and sell lawnmower with flat head engines only. You just can’t kill a flat head. The OHV ones are just scrap. I brought a OHV one just to smash it. They are harder to work on. They leak.
the newer engines definitely have their issues.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE lots of them
As someone who worked in small engine repair for atleast a year and a half (and kind of maintains my small fleet; toro smartstow w/ bs 163 cc, bs snowblower w/ 212 cc, power mate 2-stroke trimmer/edger, Ryobi 2-stroke 14" chainsaw w/ 37 cc), I can vouch the older models are definitely tried and true compared. Those ol' 3 hp mowers were very reliable and the plasticy, primer style carbs worked well, and the engines to follow were, IMHO, better designed even though it had more pieces. My Toro, despite having that crappy newer plastic carb (actually very easy to rebuild as you showed), is still a good, tough mower. I'm not a fan of the smaller 125 and 140 cc engines, respectively.
Even though they don't have drain plugs, you can tilt the mower on the oil side, and it works as well. Even though your video was about Briggs and Stratton, Honda was better when it still had their gxv series engines. The gcv160s are good engines, but they had an issue with cam belt (under the valve cover) slipping off and knocking the engine out of time, until they made a new cover with a metal tab welded on the inside. I'd be curious about the newer gcv170s. :)
thank you Kingswood7189.
My first mower was a 1968 or 1971 Pincor 21 push mower with a 3.5 Briggs and Stratton. I got it for free it had sat for 20 or 30 years. I brought it home the oil was black as crude oil and it had pretty low compression but the tank looked clean and with some starting fluid and a few pulls it fired up and ran. I used it a few times but I fired it up one day and could hear a tapping sound. So I shut It down drained the gas and parked it. Fast forward a few years I got my 74 Jacobsen with the same engine. So I recently dismantled the Pincor for spare parts. The crankshaft with the blade removed had about a 1/2 inch of play up and down and it still ran it always had oil in it as long I had it so that was just from an extreme amount of hours. the deck is still good so i might throw that together with some spare parts I have laying around. From my experience you can't kill a pre 1990 Briggs engine.
you got that right. Those were some great machines
Very nice and informative video! I have on my 3000 qm call Ram set on lawnmower from John Deere with the V2 cylinder, gasoline engine from Kawasaki and one self driving Honda lawnmower with 150 cc overhead cam and one older about 1995 Honda also was overhead cam but 135 cc. After my two-stroke water pump failed, I bought also the 50 cc Honda, four stroke overhead water pump and the hand grasschopper for around the tees or for hard weed, You can use with a scharp thin rope from hard plastic wich is on a roll and gets cut after it is worn out by a blade on the Side of the shield at the back or you can use it with the metal disk looking like a saw plate but there are different kinds of metal plates, so I have also one with the three blades so you can cut even with a heart weed, which is more wood like. Anyway, this machine uses the same 50 cc OHC 4t engine with 1.5 hp than my water pump. Since more than 25 years, I am very happy with the Honda products and the newer models on the water pump and the other one with the 50 cc four stroke I am using Sims 20 years without any problem only oil changes same with the John Deere. That is also a diesel variant the of that lawnmower but because I am using petrol for all my other vehicles, I choose that one with the Kawasaki engine end. It makes also a few horsepower more sense for me.
My chainsaw and my bush trimmer (I am not sure if that is the right word because I am from Germany and I don’t know the exact word for that machine we call it “Heckenschere”) it is also from Stihl and they are both 2strokes with a 1:100 mixture Danielle also more than 20 years old, and never made any problem. I feel if you buy a good garden machine you have to buy expensive. Otherwise you will buy twice or more times depends how long you need it if you have a pig cartoon what you want to keep for the rest of your life it’s definitely better by the good stuff.
thank you for the information A. G. Russ. Honda products work very well and if taken care of, should last a long time. And I believe Heckenschere should be translated to "hedge Shears"
The way I understand it, OHC engines will produce more horsepower than similar-sized flatheads because the fuel is more effectively delivered to the combustion chamber. I remember seeing OLD Model-T, 4 cylinder race cars that had their flatheads replaced with uniquely engineered OHC heads to much more effectively produce horsepower.
When I was 9 years old, I was given my first broke down lawnmower with a flathead BS 3hp engine by a neighbor who had upgraded. I went to the library, checked out a book on SGE repair and rebuild, and had a field day. Whenever I came across a yardsale with a non-working mower, I bought (usually for around 5 dollars), rebuilt the engine, and then usually resold it for 25-40 dollars according to namebrand. This is in addition to trolling the neighborhoods around me for lawn-mowing jobs. I did this for around 3 years.
The newest 10hp engines look to be about the same size as the old 3-5hp BS flatheads.
nice, there was something great about finding something that was broken and fixing it, Thank you DanD.
Ohv engines give more power as they're volumetric efficiency is superior to the flat head design ,better breathing essentially.
I worked at Western Air-Cooled Engines in Vancouver BC as a mechanic from 1973 to 1978. It was my first job after graduating from high school. I had just turned 17 a month before I started there. I repaired and rebuilt countless Briggs & Stratton engines... on everything from lawnmowers to generators to water pumps to mini-bikes! We'd also get the old cast iron B&S engines from the 1940's and 50's in for repair/rebuild. They were popular for use on fishing boats used for trolling, as those ancient cast iron beasts could comfortably idle along at a *very* low RPM while slowly pushing the boat.
The best tip I can give anyone with a single cylinder engine... always store the engine after use with the engine on the compression stroke. This ensures that both valves are seated. This prevents a hot exhaust valve from warping when it cools down (leading to a stuck valve and/or poor compression), and it also prevents moisture from entering the combustion chamber during long periods of storage (and possible corrosion/hanging valve issues).
My current rotary lawnmower is an old flathead B&S, probably from the 1990's. Runs like a charm!
great advice!
I was faced with buying a new mower as my old flat-head B&S had a carb on it that took a special Primer bulb that I could not find for love nor money , so I would start it with quick start
and 30 minutes worth of tinkering every time I needed to use it.... so I had enough...
but instead of buying a gas mower I got an electric one (battery powered) from Harbor freight tools, it was self powered and I just hoped and prayed one charge would do the entire yard...
it turns out one charge would do my yard and the neighbors yard 2 times before it ran out.
it was a strange thing to get used to but I really love it ! .... beats pulling a starter rope !
I like the way you put it. I've had a lot of other comments that were very one sided. The only thing I would like to add is the "unmentioned" storage and charging tips, to help keep the battery healthy. Otherwise
after 2 season, that same battery won't do the neighbors yard, 2 times over. thank you Bob Kelly.
Our grandkids will be saying " Remember the old OHV engines with the plastic carbs? Man those things were tough compared to the junk they are making today"
I can believe that.
When I was a kid in the 50s, I mowed our lawn with a 1 hp B&S flathead reel mower. One time I removed the head and cleaned out all the crud in the combustion chamber and replaced the head without even a new gasket. The compression was around 5 to 1 but the machine still had a lot of pep. Every once in a while I'd go over to the nearby Chevron station and get a gallon of white gas for it. The air cleaner was one of those oil-bath types.
thank you kpadmirer.
1:38 It's exposure to air (evaporation) that's the problem. Whether it's in a tank, or in a floatbowl. If you evaporate an entire tank of fuel in your carb by way of gravity feed, you're going to have a bad time. Keep it sealed and you can (and I do) store gas for years. It "doesn't seem to be as effected" because anything with EFI has a nearly air-tight fuel system.
thanks
Loved this video
thanks
I haven't had a lot of experience with the overhead valve Briggs and Stratton engines apart from an Intek engine on a ride on lawnmower that I had to replace the cylinder head on for someone which has a tendency to blow cylinder head gaskets,burn oil due to that & the valve guides were known to move in them,Taryl Dactal used the grub screw trick to fix one of them up.
Yes,the now 35; year old 3 horsepower L headed engine on my push mower that I rebuilt is very good & reliable but it's much easier to adjust the valve lash on the newer overhead valve engines !
you make a good point.
I’ve had a Briggs and Stratton Quantum Engine for 20 years. Simply change the oil and the air filter every spring and it starts on the first pull.
Thanks to a little reading and RUclips videos like this one, I learned how simple it is to do more sophisticated maintenance. So no problem to clean the carburetor and remove the head and clean out the carbon from the combustion chamber. I finally put on new front drive wheels on the mower today as the originals were bald from all the use!
you are correct, these are fantastic engines
I have the old flat-head mower motor on mine and it's been running for about 20 years now. It's had a new fuel tank and and 2 carbs and some gaskets. It's still running like a champ.
I suppose it's nearly worn out by now but it still starts on the 1st or 2nd pull after a good prime.
I don't think anything I could replace it with could last anywhere near as long.
I like your testament about them, these can be very good engines.
The best engine I've probably ever used is the little 5-horse Tecumseh in my 96 Craftsman that I picked off the curb. A little welding to fix the slightly-rusted deck and it was good as new. I leave the juice in it, but I always use fuel stabilizer. Looking forward to the first run in the Spring--betcha it'll pop right off like it always does. Good video!
nice thanks for sharing Hank Hill.
I have a Craftsman lawnmower with a 6.0 horsepower Briggs and Stratton engine. I don’t know it’s age, but it’s the flathead design. The thing runs beautifully. I plan to change the oil in it this spring just like I did last spring. I use SAE 30 weight oil every time.
very nice maintenance!
Few people realize how difficult it is to manufacture consumer products in the US and consistently turn a profit. Every extra 1/10 of a penny has to be engineered out. If you can make the paint layer thinner, you have to do it. It's my understanding that B&S makes engines for the US market in the US. Kudos to them! Maybe adding gas stabilizer to your gas can when you fill it would help.
from what I've seen they do make their engines in the US, but the ones that have tighter margins, are made overseas.
These are enjoyable videos to listen to. Interesting designs but I run into these on the curb all the time. They seem to not hold up.
tHanks for the video
I appreciate it Dancing Alone wRentals
My quantum 65 is the best mower I have used next to my old Lawn-Boy 2 stroke. 1 minor repair in over 15 years of heavy (rural) use.
nice!
I have an intec briggs on my pressure washer, it’s probably close to 20 yr old now and im always amazed at how well it starts, 1-2 pulls even after sitting over the winter. Last year my pump froze and cracked, as the engine ran so good I bought a new pump, when I took off the old ump I found the keyway totally stretched and worn on the crank shaft. As I already had the pump I ut in a new key, filled the worn away part with jb weld.
Done several wash jobs and it seems to be holding up, will see how it holds up, time will tell😅
nice, I never thought to check the key, thanks!
We have a 25 year old mower with the cheap flathead Briggs with the pulse type plastic carb (no Quantum). Once the ignition coil was broken and it needed two carb diaphragm sets in the 25 years to still run great. Only oil consumption is getting worse.
My grandpa had an OHV Intek 55, what a great engine. Very powerful, fuel efficient and always ready to do the work. Sadly the rest of the mower wasn't good so he changed to a new one with one of the last build flathead Quantum engines. Power ist nearly on the same level as the Intek, but it uses more fuel.
What I like about the OHV design is the better fuel efficiency and that it's easier to check and set the valve clearance.
What I like about the flathead Briggs is their pure robustness and the ability to run on nearly every burning fuel. They always start on the first pull even after sitting months.
thank you Henrik.
I purchased a battery operated Green Machine two years ago and I love it. No gas no oil.
thanks.
I have one of the Intek v-twins on my lawn tractor. My biggest issue over the years was their choice to use a brass valve stem guide pressed into the aluminum head with no locking of any type.
Engine overheats at all, aluminum expands, brass works its way out, rocker collides, and pushrod bends. There's probably 3 or 4 pushrods floating around in my crankcase
thank you XirallicBolts
I've got this same engine on my mower. I've had it a few years now, and found out about the starting problem after the first winter fresh out of the shed. Read up on it, and the problem stopped when I started adding stabilizer to the gas. And yes, the recoil IS a problem, haven't had to work on it yet, just have to twitch the cord after starting, now and then. Oh and, tipping the mower over to drain the oil is a pain.
than you Feral for sharing your experience.
I route the exhaust downward under the deck to add a little extra noise cancelation . Cut hole in deck , weld J pipe in place and silence...sorta.
this is an idea, we need to try out
My Honda 5HP OHV mower is over 20 years old, my Honda 35CC 0HC whipper snipper is over 10 years old, both start and run perfect, carb. cleanout and spark plugs, oil changes, air filters.
both very nice machines!
I like the Honda GC over head cam engines. It's a clever design with a one piece cylinder and head, no head gasket or bolts. Metal carburetor, light weight, smooth running and easy to start
I completely agree. The no cylinder head, kind of surprised me at first but I've grown to like it.
I have a 1980's B&S Classic push mower and a year 2000 Snapper rider. Both are still going strong. Keep your oil changed and run them out of gas for winter storage.
Thanks for the tips!