How To (Disabling A Riding Mower Fuel Solenoid)
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- How To (Disabling A Riding Mower Fuel Solenoid)
In This Video I Explain How To Disable A Bad Fuel Solenoid On A Lawn Mower.
Picture Before I Fixed The Vanguard: www.facebook.c... (you may have to copy and past the link if it don't work sorry)
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I did this fix on a Murray Tractor today. Fired right up! Can't thank you enough. Saved me time and money.
I stuck a built 30 hp Kohler on a 1960 Bolens. I use it to plow snow. The motor was so large on such a small frame it made me put the gas tank on the front and the battery on the back where the hitch goes. The wiring was a nightmare but I got it down to 3 toggle switches and a push start. They wanted 118$ for the fuel solenoid. I almost tore the motor off and swap out with an 18 Briggs. My Fuel solenoid looked way different then what you showed. However it gave me the basics and 10 minutes later the tractor fired right up. Thanks dude.
thank you so much this helped me with my craftsman's it had an ignition issue just snipped that piece off and haven't had problems since.
Good deal. Happy it helped.
Thanks you saved me a mechanic's bill!
coyotesniper72 happy it helped
Awesome tip. Im on it tomorrow.
Thanks man I just fix my
Poulan Pro tractor 🚜 I save a lot of money. Old School
Thanks! Was able to fix my mower for free.
dhoff86 happy it helped.
Desperate for answers, I really hope you see this. Lx255 runs until hot then wants to die, I can limp it back to my trailer by fluctuating choke. Starts again next day to do the same over again, what gives? I’m at my wits end. Thank you in advance!
Sounds like your coil is going bad
@@LonniesGarage wow, thank you so much for seeing this right away. could it be electrical even knowing that I need to use choke to keep it running? I did suspect the coil or the fuel solenoid, but the choke part of the equation has me stumped
i never grinded but I have used my wire cutters and cut them off and it works its easy and saves you money
I ground it off, reinstalled it, works perfect. Thanks
My Vanguard motor did this and I just took off the the top of the carburetor and snapped the end off of the solenoid
Mine starts and runs fine, but starts to kill after only a few minutes of mowing. If I ride with the hood up and tap the cabr or soleniod with the handle of a screw driver, when it starts to die, it perks up and runs again for a few minutes. Then the whole cycle repeats. Do you think my solenoid is failing, or maybe an electrical fault, or carb float sticking?
Thomas Russell sounds like u need to clean that carb really good. Also wouldn't hurt to put a coil on it.
Love the small motor repair im in that same ting
Thanks
Love the song ❤
Had gas in my oil. I have the fuel shut off too. Thinking. I'm thinking fuel solenoid.
Yup
This is a new motor
Time for a Dumpster and junk management perhaps?
Gord Baker check the video date. I have since uploaded a whole lot more videos. I have since moved two times. I have since bought a home with a big shop. I have since collected more junk...
Lonnie's Garage! is that why the wires on my solenoid are getting hot? My MTD 15 hp would start then stop in seconds, so i cleaned the carb really good and it is the same thing. Could i just unplug it?
You have an electrical problem, Disconnect the hot wires and see if it still runs. Check for chafed insulation. Ignition switch problem?
I took the solenoid out of the carb and put the wires back on and turn the key , and the little piston with the plastic plunger and spring on the end goes in and out . The bowl is filled with gas and the float moves up and down, so why isn't the gas getting to the carb and i removed and cleaned the carb pretty good.
The Float bowl is part of the Carburetor so fuel IS getting to the carb.
Check/change the spark plug, make sure Choke is operating properly.
Does the engine turn over (crank)?
]I don't know
My McCullogh ride-on with 17.5 HP Briggs & Stratton started playing up end of last summer, cutting out randomly for no apparent reason. I began troubleshooting, changing the plug, cleaning and fitting a carbie kit, changing the magneto, checking the safety switches, new fuel and fuel cap etc. This summer was no different, after 3 or 4 minutes running it cut out and I was pulling my hair out. There seemed to be excessive crank case pressure, oil blowing out of the filler cap so I fitted a new head gasket, lapped in the valves, checked the clearances, booted her up and hell!! No different. Now I was really frustrated. I checked the crankcase breather which meant pulling off the flywheel but it was as clean as. Browsing the internet I came across so many suggestions all of which I had tried. Then I saw this. Nah, too simple, can't possibly be the problem, won't work. IT DID.
Damn! It would've been cheaper to buy another tractor than to go through all that trouble!
phil I'm having the same problem with my wacker roller it has the v twin robin engine eh65 22 hp.Starts great runs great for 5 minutes then starts to lope then it shuts down .Wait 10 minutes then starts up again .Do u think i have the same problem.And we rebuilt the entire engine
@@jrac863 Thing is Jay, it's such an easy fix which would have saved me
much time and money, I don't know why they fit them in the first place as my machine has run ever since without any flooding problem at all. At least I got an overhauled engine out of it but could have done without the angst. Good luck with it.
If you do remove the solenoid while it is mounted to the engine, know that there is a nozzle/jet that will fall out of the bowl! To reinstall the jet, which needs to be there, make sure it goes in with the o-ring pointing up (towards the sky). I'd like to meet the jerk who thinks it is decent to set the price for this solenoid for my LA120 at... $114!!! Yes, that is one hundred and fourteen dollars. Yes, other makes/models have essentially the same part for $11...
My selinoid just screw in and out I never seen what you're saying
A Big Thank You,to good folks such as you.I"ve been fighting a losing battle for 3 days until I watched your how-to-video about disabling fuel solenoid by grinding that little shut-off rod.Works like a champ.Once again Thank You,Brother. Sincerely, Ole Mike! ( Up and Running ) :)
Yw
Shouldn't have to grind all the way to the threads anyway. Only as far as the pin bottoms out at.
I've replaced 2 fuel solenoids on my JD e110, my 3rd one just burned out. This worked perfectly and saved me another visit to the mechanic. THANK YOU!
Can't believe this was the problem. I removed the solenoid and it worked properly in my hand so I didn't want to cut it. Instead I found a float bowl bolt with gasket from a club car golf cart and it plugged the solenoid hole perfectly 😂 it runs like new 😂 zip tied the wires to the intake manifold, off and mowing. ❤
Thank you for this. My j d stopped running while o was plowing the driveway. After your repair, I was able to finish and help my neighbor.
I ordered the new part. Word for the diy. Keep an eye out for the washer, it goes between the “cup” amd solenoid.
Very helpful video. You gave me the confidence to forge ahead and try the "disable the fuel solenoid fix," and it worked. Saved ~$250 (including mower pick-up and labor / parts) on our 2005 John Deere LT 180 (Kawasaki motor) and learned some things for future use; thanks much!
Yes sir! Was ready to spray starting fulid in carb and hold governor wide open until it blew up but luckily I seen your video cut them stem low as the threads with cutting pliers and BAM! First turn of the motor and she had been holding a steady tune. Me and My Briggs and Stratton 15.5 hp thanks you.
Glad this helped you.
THANK YOU THIS WORKED FOR MY CUB CADET LT1045
DUDE, this works great. This part was 50 bucks for my rider and I could not get this thing to start. I was down and out and ready to give up. I ran across your video and said, I will give it a try. 5 Minutes later the damn thing started right up. Thank you so much for posting this and saving me money and frustration...
Thanks for watching I'm happy that it helped you out also don't forget to put a fuel shut off on the fuel line that goes to your carb
Lonnie, today 8/7/20 I solved my issue thanks to your video. My Troy Bilt Pony with a B&S 17.5 HP would run for about 5 minutes and then die. I tried all of the most obvious steps and nothing but I always suspected the engine to somehow be suddenly starved of fuel (wasn't the cap, wasn't the lines. new fuel filter, clean carb) so I removed this solenoid and clipped the rubber tip with pliers. Now the thing runs great and doesn't shut down. I'll go get a fuel shut-off valve from the autoparts store tomorrow. Thanks again.
Good deal happy u got it figured out.
thanks for turning down the radio
Thank you!! Riding mower started immediately after doing this thanks to your video. I really appreciate this!!!!
All that is fine,my Craftsman 42" did it ,so I took out the silonoid and replaced it with a short bolt and rubber o ring ,then cut my fuel line and installed a fuel cut off ,if you don't it'll flood the mower
Adjust your floats in the float bowl. Your carb should not be flooding. It works just like the float in your toilet bowl that shuts the water off so the tank does not overfill.
I had an older riding Craftsman. Someone gave it to me. It didn't have this switch. Shortly after I got it, it dumped the gas in the tank onto the ground. I knew what the problem was, ad I am old motorcyclist. Ordered a new needle and seat from the mainland USA, as we live near Hilo Hawaii. Replaced those parts and got another 7-8 years out of that ancient Craftsman. Now I have a Poulan Pro rider, and it up and quite after a few years. I believe it is this switch. Ordered one from China and an waiting for it. I tried bench testing the old switch, and the plunger won't plunge with current.
So do you leave the wire that connects to the solenoid off?just wondering because everything has a safety switch on top of a safety switch these days and thought maybe the mower won't start if it's not connected to anything.great video!
It doesn’t matter.
great video! i was tearing my hair out with my B&S riding mower that wasn't starting. i spent a lot of time trying to figure the problem out and then bumped in to this video. as per video, disabled solenoid and my engine starts perfectly now. saved a lot of money...
David G glad it helped you
I replaced the stock carb on my kohler courage 22 because the original carb had a fuel solenoid problem and it was the same price for a new carb. I just took apart my aftermarket carb that is marked AE power because it was acting the same way. Would run if I put fuel in the carb and then quit. It has a new fuel pump which is working. When I took the solenoid off I found that the pin and magnet were a separate piece inside the solenoid body and slid right out. I'm just going to put it back together without the pin and leave the solenoid coil unplugged. It is almost like it was made to do this. Strange.
I jammed a piece of tooth pick beside the rod to hold it down,...
At least it was my problem. I will buy a new one. Thanks but for now i can mow my yard. Lol the ground wire had broke off.
Thanks,,,,I did it and put shut off valve on,,,like the good old days
will a bad solenoid make engine backfire alot and almost make it die
Yed
honestly i might follow this to disable the solenoid on my craftsman riding mower as it is really messing with the carburetor and making the engine run poorly. i really dont know why these kinds of things are installed as it tends to create more problems than it solves.
You saved me a lot of time, and I thank you for that sir. If you ever need any garage door advice I'm your man. THANK YOU!
Happy to see this video is still helping others
88 Whats your thoughts on my noisie double garage door am i going to have to replace the wheels?
Thanks for the video I cut mine off with pliers, I get backfire time to time but overall it fixed my issue.
Subscribed.
Put a turn-off switch on the fuel line and cut the gas off before turning off the switch. Let the motor die from lack of fuel, and it will not backfire.
Ok i did on my cub cadet but why put it back in not wired up anyways so what i did was found a bolt add washer and put that in instead of that bulky solenoid. 1/4 in long washer and done stronger and looks better just a lil info for anyone I've been a mechanic since 16 yrs ol started on small engines at age of 12 and was working on my own yz 80 dirt bike that young not dissing the video its great but why put that ugly solenoid bavk in just use shorty bolt and washer and done tape and tie strap harness out of the way and done but good video for people who dont know mecha9i also worked for mark martin nascar driver and he had me do lots of tricks on his dirt track car so yeah great video just adding a lil xtra info for ya there and add shutoff valve on fuel line or carb will go back corrosi2and gunk then have to rebuild and or buy new save yall the headaches do this like guy did add fuel shutoff valve between filter and carb then drain fuel and run mower till dies then you will be rdy next summer with absolutely zero probs great video keep them coming ty..
At the time I didn't have a shorter bolt. Also I have recommended to most that ask to put the shut off valve in the line. Thanks for watching
On my 2017 17.5HP Briggs Troybilt pony, I was able to take a pair of pliers and pull the stem out of the solenoid, then leave the wire unhooked. Fired right up. Had me worried, my solenoid went up in a plume of smoke and melted the plastic on the side of it. I thought it was going to catch fire, there was that much smoke...
If you disconnected the solenoid there's no way it could've had a meltdown.
@@allensmith342 It had the melt down when it was connected... I said I had to disconnect it. Burning stopped. Like any child hooked it back up, started burning again, disconnected it permanently, then removed the plunger... Works like a charm for the last 2 seasons. I did put a cut off valve on the fuel line to cut the fuel off when it is sitting parked...
@@kramnull8962 Glad you got it going. I took my carb off thinking it could be the solenoid. The bowl is so corroded it'd be a waste of time and money to rebuild. Looks like I'll be buying a new one.
Well I'm happy as a buzzard on a gut wagon!!! Went through whole no start process and the plunger was sticking, new carb assembly has maybe 10hrs. Runs like new now...THANK YOU!
Good deal. Your welcome
@@LonniesGarage I tell ya I can put together a 500hp old school small block and tune it, these small engines will throw ya a curve. My Harley has a petcock, but also a side draft. Doesn't need to be used Everytime but it's there. Line on my Briggs from pump runs 6" below the fuel inlet, I wouldn't think it would syphon fuel but petcocks aren't over $80+, close it and its all good for few dollars.
Can I just pull the damn thing out and put a plug in?
Put a really short bolt with the same thread. Just make sure it's not too long
Thanks for the info, 1st thing tomorrow...least I know everything else is adjusted right.
Make sure to install an inline fuel shut off valve, otherwise you will fill your cylinder and most likely the crankcase with gas. Ask me how I know.
Yes. I agree. I tell everyone that ask me about this to do so
Can you cut your radio? It adds more noise.
Sorry this was 7 years ago
Also, don't need to reconnect power to that thing was snipping it. Thanks!!
Yeah that is also true but I just didn't want to cut that wire or leave it hanging
dont do this......... it will drain fuel into the cylinders and into oil, just clean it most are just stuck. this can cause hydrolock and you will bend pushrods as well. bought a mower and the guy must of watched this stupid video, or one like it. This is a warning.
That's why you install an inline fuel shut off. Duh even said it to 90 percent of the people that have commented. Maybe u should have looked at the comments first. Seems like our the only one that's not smart enough to do so...
All the solenoid does is plug the main jet when the key is off, it does not keep fuel from entering the carb, that is the job of the float and needle. The fuel cutoff solenoid is not needed and was not even put on carbs until recently.
+Horsepower Garage - Yup you are 100% Correct Sir !!!! :)))
The Fuel Shutoff Solenoid is backup in case the needle sticks and fuel fills the carb and enters the engine, diluting the oil. It is needed and important.
WRONG! Jod.
Your write on need to fix the ball and seat first.then put a on off valve on gas line .then modify cut off.
I have a 1992 craftsman riding mower with a 12.5hp briggs flat head, it never had a carb rebuild and doesn't have the solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor. The engine has never flooded, never leaked gas into the oil, and it still runs better than my 2007 craftsman which has the solenoid on the carb. If you take care of your machines it would never become a problem in the first place. If I'm not mistaken it does regulate the amount of fuel usage when its running, which is an EPA regulation placed on small engine manufactures.
This works but fuel can fill you cylinder with fuel, good temporary fix but I suggest installing a fuel line shut off. Also idle the engine down and wait a sec or so before shutting it down.
That's why I say put an inline shut off
My JD 345 would only try and stay running in the shop if I kept sockin the choke to it because it was starving for fuel. I pulled the carb and sure enough the pilot jet was plugged so I was confident I found the issue. Still wouldn’t stay running so I was ready to pull fuel lines until I watched this video. What do I have to lose. Held my finger over the solenoid hole in carb while my side cutters nipped the plunger off and sure as shit she fired right up. She’s running like a rockstar so Thank you very much for sharing.
Happy that it helped you.
Thank you for this video. Will the mower overheat by disabling the shutoff? Why the heck do they put this part in if it's not needed. In Canada, the John deere part is $250.
No it won’t over heat. It’s there as an anti backfire device. When you turn the key off it stops the fuel immediately.
Hi Lonnie. Thank you for posting this video. I put on a new coil, wouldn't start, put new fuel lines in and wouldn't start. watched your video and took your advice, she started! It is running like the timing is off a little. does the new coil and where I had the magnet aligned make any difference? I have a new carb coming so this just helped me know that it will start! maybe the new carb will fix the rough
running? Thanks again Lonnie
Could have a lil trash in the carb.
Thanks. I will tell my brother about this since he told me he is having trouble with the solenoid on his carburetor.
Your welcome
What is happening, when gas and oil mixture is shooting out your carburetor, as you try to start it?
Could be a number of things. Check the pcv filter
breother i know this is an old video but just helped me back to cutting grass
Good deal
Thanks for the update Lonnie, I have a new carb coming Friday. I will let you know if that fix's the rough idle. Thanks
Didn’t work for my riding mower , had to buy a new one , ran fine afterwards . I guess it was just a bad Solenoid .
This is an anti backfire solenoid. It just cuts the fuel off when you turn the key off to keep the fuel from continuing to run into the needle.
Thanks bro save me 3-4 paying someone to fix it. I just ground off tip with bench grinder.Plus save a few hundred in not paying someone else cutting my yard...God Bless
Thanks for watching. Happy it helped you
What if ive changed the filter n the fuel pump i took the fuel sellinoid off checked it it clicks up n down but still not wantn to run it wont run but maybe 2 minutes if i blow air in the tank then run long enough until carb runs out of gas could the fuel sellinoid still be bad even if it clicks up and down when u turn the key switch off n on
Either a bad fuel pump or the carb is clogged
i grinded mine down about a year ago, but now it's leaking, any thoughts?
Wesley Jackson could be a gasket or o ring
Can you just find a bolt to fit the bowl instead of grinding off the rod?
I have a dumb question? If that rod is to keep the carb from flooding when you eliminate that rod won't it flood?
Yes that's why I tell everyone to put an inline fuel shut off
@@LonniesGarage gotcha thank you so much for responding. You got me and my family as subscribers.
Thanks for the information. But I don't see how that stops fuel from getting to the carburetor. I thought the float, and needle and seat control fuel interning into the carburetor and controlling fuel level. I understand that the fuel solenoid stop's fuel getting to the main jet when you turn off your ignition switch.
I also see you grinding off the needle plunger if you have a electrical problem or bad fuel solenoid winding.
But I thank you for the information.
Interesting comments...so I shall add my two cents.....my Afterfire solenoid went bad about ten years ago and I had a horrible backfire when shutting it off....went to get another one and was advised to shorten the shaft by cutting it in half instead of spending the $75 dollars for a new one. Since then the backfire on shutoff is gone....and I have no gas leaking through the carb....I have to agree....another part put on the carb that was never needed.
your past issue describes my problem. Only backfires after engine is turned off. Everyone is talking about a fuel shut off valve....where would you install it..../ Any ideas ....thank you
I just completely removed it. Just make sure to throttle down and wait a second before shutting the machine down
Add an in line fuel shutoff so that you don't flood your crankcase with gas.
do you typically add a in line shut off after doing a modification like this, even though your needle/seat/float combo keeps fuel or should at the correct level?
Yes because this is designed to stop the fuel from coming back into the carb once you kill it.
If your mower floods gas will get in the oil with or with out the solenoid and if your mower is backfiring it's out of time it shouldn't be backfiring with or without the solenoid
I'm sorry too Say did not work for my toro 4250 some reason Not getting pulsating put New fuel pump on it 'll start but taking needle out flooding and back firing but not pulsating thru fuel pump
Heah I used to keep my shop so clean I could eat off the floor. But I'm getting old and I have bad knees. Your place looks like mine.
I'm certain my solonoid is good, but I'm not getting it to actuate via turning the key. Either the ignition switch is bad at that connection or it's something beyond my understanding. I may bypass it using this method it it'd be nice to get it function. It's a brand new carb and the tractor quit one day. The solonoid plunger wasn't actuating/retracting with they key. Tested the solonoid and its good. It's a wiring issue
Saved me a bunch... mine had a plastic piece on the end. Broke it off and I can now mow my lawn! Thanks!!!
Steve did your engine turn over and just not fire or not turn over at all?
Thanks! This solved my issue.
Thank you sir
From 🇦🇺
my john deere will not turn over. 172 lx... it has plenty of spark but will just turn and turn and not turn over. i did what the video showed and cut that piece off and still nothing.. i have checked and am getting fuel to carburetor. i am lost.. please help
thanks mate works perfectly
I’m going to try this on a Cub Cadet I just acquired a few days ago the solenoid is dead but I can get it to turn over and attempt to run for about 4 seconds
I disabled mine by pulling the wire from the bottom of the solenoid -Problem solved
I have 2 ridding mowers that after hot slowly feel like they are starving for fuel. If I pull the choke they will idle up but eventually die. I this this may be my problem. Thank you for the information.
I put a new carburetor on my Toro z4200 and the solenoid its getting very hot when I turn the key on and it won't start I've mowed with it twice before then but now it won't start and you can hear the solenoid click on but it gets so hot you can't even touch it! What would be the cause of that?
Isn't that there for safety. Hope you don't get sued
Who needs safety when your going 180mph
Question, why can you just pull the plunger or point out and leave it out?
ive done many like this ,,, at first when i did it i had a tank full of gas in my motor ,,, have to drain it and new oil ,,, i always put a shut off in line and when im done using the mower i shut the gas shut off ,off and let it run til it runs out of what little gas is in the carb ,, but remember to turn the shut off on next time you use it .. i would never recommend grinding that rod off without using a in line shut off ....just my 2 cents
G'day mate. I had same problem with the fuel solenoid on my Husqcana ride-on mower and was able to get it working perfectly by removing the rubber tip (the part that actually seals and shuts off the fuel) of the solenoid and replacing it again. My question is... can I leave it like this forever? Should I install a seperate manual shutoff valev? Is there any real need to have the fuel off when not using the mower? Maybe I am missing something as engines are not my forte' lol.
Yes u will need to put a shut off on the fuel line or it will cause the carb to over flow and gasoline goes into the oil
Thanks did not know that I have a John Deere. I'll keep that in mind.
If you just install a simple in-line fuel shutoff valve between the tank and the carburetor, you wouldn't need a fuel solenoid. Mowers and engines have run fine for decades without them. I've got a John Deere Sabre rider that I use without a battery or starter solenoid and jump start with cables directly at the starter. Once the motor's running, the fuel solenoid circuit is energized through induction.
Thank you for the info as well
I had to put a cut off valve in the gas line, when this solenoid stop working does that mean that the solenoid is not opening when the engine is running are what? 9/7/2016
I said in the video if u do this then u will need an inline shut off.
Yes if it stops working it won't let gas come into the carb
OK thank you
I pull plug no fire then look at motor
Did this yesterday after replacing several other parts to no avail. Then I snipped off the plunger and BINGO. Started up and I mowed til dark. However, it wants to flood out/die when I put it in reverse. It's never done this before. Deere L110. What happened?
try putting and in line fuel shut off on the fuel line going to the carb and kinda turn it about halfway
Yeah this clearly isn’t/won’t work. Thanks anyway
Do you do this if your fuel solenoid fails to avoid replacing it, or just do it before any issues?
I've had my Husqvarna 11 year's with no problem's. Thanks
Do it if it fails. But if u have to do this it will need an inline fuel shut off valve
hi, thanks for vid, inherited this mower and of course this was the problem, However the throttle must stay at Full Rabbit speed or it will die....is this a related problem or possibly carb just needs to be adjusted now,,, TIA..!
Maybe clean the carb and adjust it some
Very Good...
Changing y key start to a push button start with a kill switch this was most likely my last issue, great explanation 👍 👌
after i delete fuel solenoid ,i install manual fuel shut off valve,when i stop engine i turn fuel off to stop fuel get in carburetor.