THE BIG SHOP SECRET! How to fix your OEM Briggs Nikki carburetor with an OEM carb kit for ONLY $18!
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- DON'T GET SWINDLED! WATCH THIS VIDEO before you decide to do anything with your Briggs and Stratton of Kohler Nikki carburetor. Today we go over how to save tons of money buying the best and most affordable kit for your Nikki carburetor. If you found this video helpful, please LIKE, SUBSCRIBE and COMMENT!!
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Looking for the Kohler OEM kit to put in your Briggs Carburetor?
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My name is Bre. I took two years of small engine repair at the local college. When I left school, I fell into a wonderful job at a local small engine shop where I worked the counter for a couple years. In 2010 my husband and I opened up our own small engine shop in central Arkansas where I am able to work alongside my family and best friends. We see over 2,000 pieces of equipment every year, and answer 1,000's of small engine questions. We specialize in brands such as Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Echo and Shindaiwa, but work everyday on MANY other brands like Stihl, Husqvarna, Honda, MTD, Black Max, Toro, Craftsman, Remington, Red Max, Troy Bilt, Scag, Bad Boy, Hustler, World Lawn, Poulan, Mantis, Etc.. Hopefully, my experience I share, will save you Time, Money and Frustration in the future!
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Although very informative, these videos are for entertainment purposes. Please use all possible safety precautions when repairing and operating your small engine equipment.
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Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
A long time ago you demonstrated a little way to pull start lawnmowers. I use it, I'm a 67 years old, I saw my neighbor, who is older having difficulty starting a mower. So your method to the rescue. Pulling the slack out of the recoil, then pull, and at the same time push the mower forward! Vavoom started right up. He was pleased, and I gave the credit to YOU! ❤
Isn't it amazing when someone actually wants to do something good how easy it is Thanks Kohler for such a kit.
You can also just test these by unscrewing them from the float bowl, reconnecting them to the wiring on the mower, and turning the key to the on position to see if it pulls the plunger down.
Thanks for saving me the trouble of having to find a 9-volt battery. Your suggestion is much simpler. 😊
Just did this today won’t pull it down unless you slightly touch it. Then it hold down well. I’ll try some penetrating oil in the morning. 🤞
Good info
Or, once you remove the solenoid, you can just grab the plunger and move it in and out to see if it sticks. If it sticks in any position, or you push it in and it does not return to the fully extended position, then the plunger is froze up, or binding. Once i verify the plunger is not froze up, then I connect it to my 12V battery charger with two small leads and see if the plunger will energize.
I have a B and S 19.5 hp
Model 31q677 and replaced the starter, solenoid and coil and now it turns over and will run with some starter fluid but isn’t getting any gas. Is it possibly the carburetor cut off causing the problem? Where do I find your reply? Thanks
One of the best Nikki videos I’ve seen, we’ve all watched just about everyone on RUclips, if I had a nickel for every time I’ve dealt with a Nikki carb I’d be a millionaire! Thanks Bre for this, always love your videos!
Thank you so much for this tip. I inherited another non-running riding mower (JD L105) from a neighbor that otherwise looked to be in good shape and decided it would be.a good project for my 19 year old son to get his hands dirty with. It wasn't starting at all. Spark was fine, but spraying starter fluid into the carb or even directly into the cylinder didn't work. Compression was fine. Before getting to the carb we popped the valve cover and found the valves completely out of adjustment with one rocker completely pointing 90 degrees in the wrong direction! We adjusted the valves properly and the engine was able to start but was running very rough with the choke open. Closing the choke smoothed it out somewhat but it still ran really lousy. Ordered the kit you recommended, disassembled and sprayed out the carb, and replaced only the large gasket and the two o-rings (one on the fuel inlet on top of the float bowl and one on the main jet), as well as the needle valve attached to the float. Put it all back together and it starts right up and runs perfectly! It was a good learning experience for my son -- I figured since he is going for mechanical engineering he better get a handle on these things ;-) Thanks again.
This is the first time I've seen your video. How refreshing it was to watch you. Just plain easy to understand conversation and demonstration. I will be watching the rest of your videos. Great tips. I learned a lot. Thank you
Went to your shop this week and you fixed me up with new jet and o-ring. Mower is working great! No more surging! Thanks so much!
Yay!
Would you share the shop number
I fix really old engines
I love your channel. I've been turning wrenches 30 years & every once in a while I'll have something stump me or have forgotten. Than maybe a day or two later or possibly a year I'll think did I check that. Sometimes I'm not sure how to test on these newer engines, carbs & governors. I'll look up your channel & see what I need to do. So far you haven't failed me yet & I always get them going. Also it's very helpful learning where to order parts. The shop in town will tell you they can't order part because they don't have a part listing. You'll leave mower, carb etc with them to try to find parts. Than go back a couple days later & they tell you you need to order a new engine because parts are no longer available. The only way to fix is order a new crate engine that had been updated. Than they charge you $200 check & advise & never even touched it. I call bs & flat refuse to go to any shop where I live. They don't have experience & get all cocky & just plain rude. There's times I just wanna drag them smart-ass kids over the counter & drag them outside. Ugh!!!
Greetings Chickanic You seem to have missed out on the one point which I need most! What is the proper direction to put the jet back in? I dont know when you posted this nor do I know if you are still receiving comments to this page?? Love your lessons! I have actually learned a lot more from your videos than from all the others I have watched.
Need to also check it plugged into the engine harness, should have 12 volts on the red wire. Can be checked with a volt/ohm meter or a cheap test light.
Thanks! Briggs with Nikki carburetor. I did everything right, shut fuel off ran the gas out, and went to start it this year and it flooded out. When I took the carburetor apart the jet fell out and I had no idea where it went. Also thanks for the tip about the o ring on the fuel uptake base causing the flooding issue. I replaced it with a nitrite o ring from Harbor Freight and I'm back in business! Thanks again!
I don't understand why these places just don't stock full-range o'ring kits in different styles from AC on down to oil and fuel resistant ones then you'll have the part you need when you need it at a super low price
The same thing happens in the automobile industry with different manufacturers using the same parts. I once needed a replacement throttle position sensor. While looking online, I noticed that the same sensor was used in several different cars, but guess what the prices were? From $22 up to believe it or not-$150! This part is made by a large Japanese company. The exact same part numbers etc., but depending where you bought it, whether genuine dealer part or aftermarket store, the price variation was out of this world. Just recently I had to get a MAP sensor, same thing, they were priced up to $50, I got one for $25 just by checking what other cars were using the same part.
So it looks like it pays to look around in the small engine market as well. Thanks for the video Chickanic, you always have good info. Cheers from Australia.
Before they put electic fuel shutoffs on carbs they used a brass "screw, bolt, whatever it's called" to hold the float bowl on. When I had one that the fancy electic unit got damaged, I pulled one of the old fasioned "screws" off another carb I had and ... never looked back! No leak, no shutoff to go bad! New and improved be damned!
I just can't tell you how much I appreciate and enjoy your posts Ma'am. Great stuff and beats anything that's ever come out of Hollywood: entertaining, informative and has helped my get all my power toys running again without depleting my meager savings. Thanks mucho- Yuda Best Miss Chikanick!
Thanks for the shout-out Chickanic!
Thanks for making awesome content!! Love your videos!
You can buy the O rings for the jets individually in bulk online. I had a seal company in Texas manufacture me 1000 of them made out of Super Viton so they last longer. I think individual cost was around 1.25 per O ring but I have seen them in standard viton for as cheap as 80 cents each. You can also purchase the fuel inlet O rings as well individually in bulk. I got out of rebuilding any Nikki carburetors, unfortunately even when the parts cost are not a factor they just seem to never be perfect once they are gunked up bad, even with ultra sonic cleaner. Briggs now sales a (Walbro copy) replacement upgrade carb that’s manufactured by Ruxing which is a China manufacturer. They do have flaws but are 100 times batter than the NIKKI junk.
There's a company called The O-ring Store that would have the correct o-rings. I have bought replacement o-rings for my garden hose quick connects. They are not expensive.
@@briantayes2418 I used them for a hard to find O ring for my home inlet water pressure control valve.
Do you know the model #?
I bought an O ring kit that has a variety of sizes in it. Cheap, and useful. Harbor Freight.
This is great to know. I do wish Briggs would be more sympathetic to the consumers when it comes to repairing and replacing carbs. Thank you.
Hard to get parts right now? Everyone is having that problem. If you can't get Briggs parts, it's serious.
Often you can simply use gumout. I've fixed more briggs carbs with nothing more than gumout and compressed air. Just make sure you don't blow your parts away.
Just got a mower with a nikki and the Kohler kit solved all my problems Thanks
I love learning about all the parts & your explanations of how, why and why not etc… is excellently explained. Added bonus is your voice and delivery isn’t grating nor distracting~ really helps me stay focused on content. Gotta say your voice would sound good as a DJ/radio . 👍
Since leaving auto mechanics and returning to lawn equipment, where it all started for me, I have come to detest Nikki carbs. We didn't have near the problems with the old style all metal carbs of yesteryear. Thanks for the info for sure.
I have always tested 9v batteries with my tongue 👅.. gets me energized!!
Shocking
@realoldgeekster Sounds like you're a die hard!
Are you positive on that
No negative comments please.
Great video very good information thanks for sharing it have a blessed day. I left my lawnmower sitting all winter and when I tried to start it it wouldn't start after a long time I found out that the coil had quit working. These tips help alot thanks again have a blessed day
You said it right, you will save me a ton of money. The Nikki I took apart looks to have a worn o ring.Thank You
Hi.A lot of us have figured out these tricks.but my question is sometimes the carb is too far gone and needs replacing.so up here we go with the A/M as the cost is dirt cheap versus OEM.Wee take our chances.Ex.that carb costs close too 300.00 cdn. from Briggs and freaks the costomer out.The prices in Canada almost exceed the value of the engine.You get my drift.You are doing great info vids keep up the good work
I have had great results with aftermarket carburetors (cheap Chinese carbs). Plug and play. $20-$40 bucks vs $60-$120, no brainer.
Moo pop pop
Great info. I've ran into o ring problems with these before. One of my hacks for the inlet o ring is to salvage a section of the old gasket that goes between the body and the white part. There is a round section that is just right to make a suitable replacement.
Thank you so much, my fuel shut off switch just decided to keep falling out. So using your info I decided to eliminate it entirely by screwing in a bolt then using JB Weld so it never leaks again. There was no sense in replacing the carb with another junk carb when it runs fine now. I'm just going to use the manual fuel shut off now, simple & cheap. 4years ago the flywheel on my 2008 Cub Cadet 1046XL cracked & separated. New flywheels were more than $200 bucks so I JB Welded it too, still works fine, JB Weld is amazing stuff!
I was fighting with one of these earlier today. As soon as the owner said he put a new carb on, I cringed. I'm glad he kept the original. I was able to clean and rebuild it and get it to work. He got one cut off of the aftermarket and it never ran again.
I had this fuel cutoff solenoid die in the middle of mowing on my 48" tractor - the solenoid went open circuit and the engine stopped. I hacked the plunger so I could finish mowing and thankfully my local small engine shop had a replacement on the shelf!
I wish I had this Kohler part number a year ago... This info you provide is very valuable,... Thank you
Wow thanks for that information about the gasket set for nikki as I need one for my mower and didn't realise that kohler done the same, cheers
I'd put a bolt in the hole,.......and put a 1/4 inch shut off valve in,.....problem solved.
But always great video's.
Realize this is an older video but I just watched it. Several years ago my neighbor blew the engine on his older Murray tractor with a Briggs Intek. I grabbed a bunch of parts from it for my Nikki Intek MTD/Briggs Intek tractor, one of which was, lo & behold, a Walbro carb. Sure enough, the Briggs parts listing shows both a Walbro & a Nikki. So I swapped his Walbro for my Nikki & have had fewer problems with the Walbro, in fact none. Most folks don't know that an aftermarket Walbro (don't think an OEM is available anymore) is readily available online for under $15-$20. I agree, aftermarket can be iffy but not always. Anyway, the Walbro # is LMT 5-4993 As Chickanic warns, check to make sure the fuel hose barb lines up for your model.
On my 24hp (vertical shaft) Kohler I had a amount of white plastic pieces in the elbow of the fuel inlet. When I flushed the system I found several more. I have a stainless steel final fuel filter on the line. I purchased the unit, (Cub Cadet Z-Force L 48) new, so the carb had never been off. It was bad enough the engine only ran at about 40% RPM.
I ended up using an O-Ring on the fuel bowl and had to replace the inlet needle and seat. A silicon will swell up if exposed to any petroleum product, so the best choice to me was the cheap old Butyl Rubber one. So far no leaks after 3 years. I still have no idea where the plastic came from.
I am a experienced tool maker and mechanical engineer, and I do have a lot of experience with O-Rings. My best tool for O-Rings is a very old button hook. It never catches or tears them.
Love your videos! Thanks you for taking the time to do them.
Smiles!
you just saved me bucks. therefore, you're cool. the battery trick works like a charm. Your tips also helped me diagnosis other carb issues. Very nice.
Thank you Bre for the information you were right and I was wrong. You make a great info videos and now youe #1 fan.
i found this video very interesting ,,the kohler hack is good to know , i have dealt with a few of these nikkei carbs and they are very reliable for the most part ,,the steel bowl Walbro carb used on the older briggs is always having issues especially with rust caused by the steel bowl drawing moisture during storage
Bre - a suggestion if I may. Would you consider doing a piece on carburetors? Not just the maintenance which you have already done for specific models, but somewhat like a dive into the top 5 or 10 carbs used in 2-cycle applications. As I deep dive into the carbs used on my 2-cycle equipment, I find the carb on my Ryobi blower, is seemingly used on Sears, MTD, Echo, and a plethora of other blowers and trimmers, and they all seem to have different model numbers but look similar enough to nearly be the same. Walbro? It's hard to know if I'm being lead astray by the "net" as to what fits what. I find trying to find rebuild kits for specific units absolutely mind blowing, and the case is even worse with Sears as they use their own specific part numbers only searchable from within Sears. I found a rebuild kit for my Ryobi blower carb and it seemingly fits, I kid you not, over 50+ some odd carbs that obviously must have common parts. I've just found trying to find specific parts for specific carbs very frustrating.
Thank you for being a good teacher you Steve a donyboy73 doctor are extremely helpful people on you tube regard Garry from Australia cheers 😊
Thank you ! you solved my demon carb flooding 🙂
Could not, for the life of me, get the new primary jet to pop in place inside the new transfer tube that came in the kit I purchased. Very frustrating. Had to use the old transfer tube with the new jet and o ring. Passed a pressure test. I wish you had taken the time to show that procedure and show if that primary jet is suppose to be flush with the tube. Thank you, you're the best!
When I done small engines in the past. I'd buy a assortment of small o-ring containers and had fairly good luck on finding one to work. But that was then and not now!
That damn tiny O ring has been hell on me for years, I even broke out and old creepy crawlers mold kit to modify into making it myself some success but failure in the end. Tiny specific ones especially. Thanks just subbed.
Just want to say thank you, you saved my sanity and answered a pile of questions in a short video! Lol
As soon as you brought out that 9v battery my tongue started tingling 😛 Ugh, it's Still Buzzing
Lol. The best fix for a Nikki carb is to find the nearest trash can, and deposit it there. Make sure there is a bag in the can so you don't have to touch it again. An aftermarket carb is cheaper than a gasket for a Nikki (if it is even available), and most of the time they run better too.
Very valuable info, thanks much. Will help many. Some things in this I didn't know .
Yeah, I ordered this kit, got it in today and it doesn't even resemble the parts needed for the nikki carb. No O-ring for jet and no O-ring for fuel inlet. Same exact number you quote. Going to have to return it. Should have just ordered a carburetor. thanks a lot.
Thanks for the acknowledgement Chickanic love the video and a great tip on the Kohler carb kit. These Nikki carbs are a real pain and you are correct that there is a 50% failure rate on the aftermarket carbs. Jake actually had a video of the priming failure 50% forwarded to China by the Amazon supplier because of internal manufacturing issues. The 30 day return policy at Amazon is great provided you use the carb or test it prior to the 30 days to find out if it fails. So as these aftermarket carbs came in we pressure and bench tested them as we opened the packages to find half failed. We have had NO issues with the Nikki carbs sold by Sten's. The OLD MAN at EP over and out!
Thanks for being awesome Wayne!
Thank you! Gas flooded my smapper Briggs and Stratton engine this winter. Learning the hard way. Bummer.
I agree 100 percent. The aftermarket carbs suck.
Great I just save a lot. I have watched a lot of videos but this is the only one that really works for me. Thank you so much!
When they flood I sock oring in brake fluid and it gets really tight and seals good
Glad I found you , You just saved me money I like that. gonna watch as many video's of your as i can . Thanks
WHAT A GREAT FIND. Way to go kohler
How do you cross reference Briggs to Kohler part number?
I know this is an older video, but thank you very much for the information!
I got the same carburetor I had that situation by eliminated it since was a pain in the butt so I don't use that no more My more tractor is eliminated of that mess just a pain Don't no more back firing
Thanks for Nikki tip my cub cadet flooded engine and into crankcase will rebuild carb and see if this gets me running again
This is great news! I am in need of the jet now. I will order this kit ASAP!😊
THANK YOU!!! For the info on the jet o ring & the kit part number!!!😃
Thanks. I replaced my junk carb with ebay last fall. It runs but not well. Gonna pop this in, and see how she does.
So does the little jet go narrow end down or wide end down into the white plastic piece? …I may have missed this in the comments somewhere
A quality low current solenoid should *never fail*
I asked myself the same thing about the kit having the throttle adjustment screw...just adding it to stock.
Awesome thanks for the info. Saw you one the video with Donny and Steve you all were great.
OK, playing with batteries and wires are fun. The solenoid is 12v dc, 9v dc may not move it if gummed up.🤔 It should click with authority.😁 Good video though.❤👍
Awesome videos Chicanic, only just discovered you, very informative, great tips too, and you make it seem so easy:)
Got a few questions!
So I had to take the bowl off as it was full of varnish goo (after I removed the solenoid, also not working, at he bottom of the bowl goo came out), upon further visual inspection noted build up on a port so took it apart and blew carb cleaner through all ports. Gaskets appear to be in good condition! Float spring works!
Reassemble. Give it a few cranks (with choke) and still will not fire, check the bowl and bone dry! Check fuel line and free flow fuel from tank and filter!
Fill carb manually and fired right up but as soon as the fuel in the carb ran out it cut out. Remove solenoid and bowl is dry!
Which way should that jet be facing when reinstalling? If I placed it in backwards would it stop fuel from filling bowl??
What else could be the issue!
Please help and thank you for what you do, keep up the great work.
DIY as much as you can Matt
I Enjoy your Information on the Carb.
Just FYI I had a cub cadet that would shut the gas off after about running for 20 minutes. You could let it cool and it would run fine. I took it to a local repair shop (left it 2 weeks) and they "said" they run the mower but couldn't get the mower to act up. I picked the mower up and after running a short period it shut off again. I sent my wife to the shop and told her to buy the shut off (don't remember the price but it was expensive and the guy at the repair shop confidently told my wife he didn't think that was the problem. I replaced the shut off switch and never had the issue again. Thought this might help some viewers.
Glad you figured it out! Intermittent issues are always the hardest to diagnose.
Cool videos keep them coming love all the simple tricks and advice
You can buy those Nikki carbs with fuel lines air filter and spark plugs on Amazon for around $25 I don't know if they are worth rebuilding anymore
Cheap Chinese carburetors are just that, cheap. You get what you pay for. At least OEM is built to a standard. If buying aftermarket at least buy good quality. These are trouble in my experience.
Thanks for the hooks on the Kohler kit! ..mm I wonder if Nikki Sixx knows there's a carb nicknamed after him? lol!
that shut thing in the bottom of the carb bowl is for is to stop the engine from back firing if engine is going at full govenor if you cut the engine to an idle count to 10 then shut it off it should stop the back firing or most of it when you shut it off you can get rid of that carb shut off by taking a carb off a push mower use a shorter bowl and the bolt off the bottom then remove the wire and by pass the shut off cut engine to idle before count to 10 then shut off that will stop most of the back firing
i mean use the carb off push mower for parts you need
I hope you NEVER retire lady !
Awsome. Thanks for the information. I'll share this with everyone at work. I knew about the original. I didn't know about the Kohler kit. Thanks again.
Really good information to have , thanks for passing this on to us . Keep the video’s coming
Thanks, will do!
Would have been helpful to see where the jet is placed 😉good video though
Love your videos! I bet you might like my "old" boat, 2 cyl., 2 cycle 7 1/2 hp, set a world speed record of 72.735 mph!
I didn’t catch on which way the small jet is installed back into the tube. I am stuck on this part. Thank you
Every other mower with Briggs engine has Nikki and wallbro. I keep good used wallbro carbs from engines that seized from low oil or whatever. Rebuild them and swap Nikki.
Yup! We do the same. Thanks for watching!
Love how you share some ways to save a buck. It helps
Yeah Terrell deck tile uses the same method he had a video on it couple years ago I’m glad that the eliminator saw that one
You are an awesome help!
You are doing a great job as always. Keep it up.
Thanks again Del!
@@Chickanic Please know I didn't mean to criticize in the earlier post. Just have run into the shut off solenoid not getting power from the machine. I added that to save time and frustration.
Very helpful your a legend saved me from pulling my hair out
HELP! Just installed two new carbs on Briggs Stratton engines on push mowers. Both of them are hard to start and surge non-stop. Also put new fuel lines, new fuel filters and all gaskets and o-rings installed correctly. I cannot figure out why they are surging unless the carbs are junk although they are brand new.
Make sure no fuel fumes are present. 9 bolt batteries will spark if there’s a short
i just replaced one on a troy bilt lawn tractor
Prefect 😊thanks hope fixes my surging issues 21 hp 2011 craftsman tractor
Wish I knew that last month.
Man, that was awesome video Chickanic. Thanks.
Bre, measure up the o-ring Id and cross section dimensions and we can get them at McMaster Carr for pennies.
Thanks for the info. Sad that I cant find the kit in Europe.
So which way does the jet go back in? You mention that people either don’t know they have one or they don’t know how it goes back in. Which way back in?
thanks you help me alot i did not know where that jet went
Big help!
So inflation definitely hit these rebuild kits but I'm gonna go ahead and order this kit and see if it solves my problem, because my main jet definitely does NOT sit properly in the tube. Also the float bowl gasket itself that I have is clearly stretched and I don't think is sealing properly either. THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO!
Thank you for the Kohler kit tip.