Probably the most beautiful rebar job I’ve ever seen! Welding the rebar together instead of just tying it together… Wow, nobody goes to that extra length. I love high-quality! Great video!
Wow! Thank you! If you like the rebar work in this video, check out the video where I make a concrete access riser for my septic tank. Got some more rebar action there too. Lol! Here is the link to that video. ruclips.net/video/DkCsVycb4qw/видео.html
Enjoyed this so much!! Hubby and I are still dreaming!! Such a nice building and special memories made!! My favorite part was the last pic of the “greatest man you’ve ever known!” I’m not tearing up over here.. just cutting up onions! 😭
Thanks! She wrote several other notes like that in other places around the shop as well. You can also see her notes in my video, “DIY Tool Bench”. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! Really cool shots and great timeline photos. Most people are not aware of just how much work goes into a "simple" structure like a pole barn.
Bro, you can totally be proud of that shop! Well done and very impressed with the overall quality of work and attention to details. You are an inspiration to the rest of us.
from one of your best freinds in our youth i new you would make it some where in life from the rose petals to the looking in in the cannon. i love you brother keep it going
Thanks. Unfortunately I filled it up with a lot of junk, organization isn't my strong point. LOL! Check out this time lapse video of me cleaning it up a while back. ruclips.net/video/W1HDuIC9TLg/видео.html
Just found your video on your shop build, just goes to show what hard work and determination can do, dreams do come true, I Congratulate you and your Dad and everyone who took part in building your dream shop, One of the best things is spending time with your Dad, that's the best thing about this video, THANKS for sharing, SUBSCRIBED.
Yeah, I was a little ill-prepared for those holes. No down pressure and just a cheap cutting tip (no carbide). I thought it would be a breeze and even had the inspector scheduled to be there around 1:00 pm. We only had about 3 or 4 holes dug when he arrived. Thanks for watching!
In addition You should have notched Your Top Plates into the post on the inside and outside post and bolted the post and Top plates from the outside to the inside plates together. You should have used joint hangers between the Trusses. the joist hangers are stronger than 3 nails on each side of the joist.
Thanks for the advise. I thought about notching the posts to support the top plate, but that would have set the top plate 1-1/2 inches farther back than the side girt plates. I would have needed to add an additional plate to the top to bring it back even with the side girts for the metal to attach to it. The posts are 10 foot on center. I used 20 foot 2x6's for the girts, alternating the seams/joints at each level for added strength and then secured them further with 2x6 diagonal braces. The inside trusses sit directly on top of the posts and are anchored with lag screws and hurricane straps. All of the purlins are installed using joist hangers.The top girt plates and eave purlins are connected together with hurricane straps. This effectively ties the side walls and eaves together. All connections in the shop are made with lag screws or decking screws, no nails were used. Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 The purpose for setting the Plates in the post is snow load. The weight is on the post instead of the Nails or leg screws. For the extra outside joint as you state can be a 2 x 4". With the outside plate being notched is strength. If you decide to add a shed to the building you already have Your support for the shed. Being on a farm you never have enough storage or I don't. The post they used in Louisiana those Post are placed in a Pressure Tank plus filled with a Chemical that is flooded into the Tank under 500 degrees at 300 psi for so many hours. The pressure and heat forces the Chemical deep into the logs. In some locations those log are driven 20 feet into the Ground. That is their Foundation for their buildings. I do a lot of building. I am not being smart or Rudd. I want YOU to enjoy your building with NO PROBLEMS. That R&R Building is very nice. Those Concrete supports he used are about $50.00 to $75.00 each. They are Hurricane PROFF. I plan to build my second Garage at my home as soon as prices come down. Concrete in my area in TN is $200.00 per yard. Last year it was $95.00 per Yard. I liked that you poured the holes for the post before you set the Post. Lowe's or Home Depot has the worst Pressure Treated wood but Lowes is Worse than Home Depot for Lumber..
I didn’t consider it rude, and I wasn’t trying to be rude either. I enjoy the feedback and you’ve definitely given me some insight to consider for any future projects. I’m always willing to take advice from those more experienced than I. Thanks again!
Nice barn gentlemen. Used the blue tractor for pretty much all of it, love it. Only thing I wonder is did you buy that scaffold for trusses? Look like it had some off-road knobbies. Great build, good job.
Thank you sir. I bought the scaffolds specifically for this project. I attached lawn mower wheels from an old "pull-behind" style mower so we could roll it around the site easier. There are other details about the project in the video description as well if you're interested. Thanks for watching!
Question : why wouldnt you have set upright stud walls between the posts or bookshelf girts , same smount of wood..? Less air gaps , tighter fit, interior as well as exterior ready for walls
I wasn't trying to construct the shop with the intention of keeping it climate controlled, so the insulation requirements weren't as critical. The girts are on the outside of the posts for several reasons. They are 20 foot 2x6s that each span 3 posts. (connecting to a post at 0, 10, and 20 ft) Then each row is offset by 1 post so that the joints don't all line up on the same post. This gives the building more strength. Also, by putting the girts on the outside, it allowed me to fully encase the posts in concrete so they would not be directly exposed to the ground, critters, and water. There is 3 inches of concrete between the post and the ground at ground surface level. This is 1-1/2 inches to make up for the thickness of the girt, plus an additional 1-1/2 inches that makes a notch for the metal to sit in to prevent water and critter intrusion. The girt placement also provided space to run the electrical wiring without having to drill holes in the posts. The studs for the OSB interior walls are connected to the first 3 rows of girts, and the OSB is flush with the posts on the inside. Wow! I got a little long winded there. Hope that answered your question. Thanks for watching!
My door is 10ft high and 12ft wide. The bottom of my trusses are 12ft above the floor, so that gives about 2 feet of clearance for the door to roll up around the "barrel"/axle. I have a little room to spare, but I would go with 12 foot walls to be sure you have the clearance. Probably a good idea to confer with the supplier to be sure to get the exact dimensions needed for the door you buy. Thanks for watching!
I wasn’t going to try to insulate to retain heated or cooled air, just to prevent condensation. It works great for that. It does seem to help “reflect” the radiant heat away so it doesn’t get so hot inside. So, for those purposes, yes I would do it again. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thanks for sharing. We are considering following plans and getting supplies ourselves vs buying a kit. Do you have a rough estimate of what this cost you for supplies not including the slab cost?
I wouldn't even have a clue what it might cost now with the price of everything going up. When I built mine back in 2017/2018 I think my material costs were around 20k to 22k not including the slab which was about 8k. Its a 30x50x12 building. Thanks for watching!
I took me a couple of months working on it on my days off. It would probably take an experienced "full time" crew only a few days. Thanks for watching!
I'm planning on building a 30x50 this winter and I'm looking at steel trusses I can get locally for $360ea. I haven't had much luck finding wood trusses built for 10' span and was curious where you bought yours and what they cost you.
I got my trusses from a local supplier. They're designed for 10 foot spacing between each truss and have 2x6 joists and rafters with 2x4 interior braces. I got 6 trusses for about $960 total back in 2017. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! The bubble insulation is doing great for my purposes. I wasn't really trying to insulate for climate control. Climate control would have been more of a hassle than it was worth for me. Instead, I mainly wanted a vapor barrier to prevent condensation inside the building. The reflective foil side of the bubble insulation does help deflect a lot of the radiant heat from the building, but the overall "R" value is pretty low. The spray foam would have been way to expensive and I just didn't want to bother with the aggravation (and "itchyness") of installing fiberglass. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Yes I drew the plans myself, mainly so I would have something to show if needed when getting the building permit. I personally only needed the post layout drawing for remembering the dimensions for getting the building square. everything else was pretty straight forward construction wise. Thanks for watching!
I used 26 gauge PBR/R roofing and siding panels. The link below shows the profile and dimensions: PBR/R Roofing and Siding Panels lyonmetalroofing.com/products/metal-roofing-panels-and-siding-panels/#top
Thank you! Yes, The form board was removed before installing the siding. The concrete extends 3 inches beyond all of the posts, and has a 1.5 inch by 1.5 inch notch on the edge for the siding to sit in. The side girts (1.5 inches thick) are attached to the outside of the posts, so the siding comes straight down and rests in the notch 1.5 inches below the floor surface. This creates a seal to prevent water and critter intrusion at the bottom of the siding, and allows the posts to be completely encased in the concrete avoiding direct exposure to the ground. If you look closely at the drawing at time frame 8:40, you can see what I'm talking about. Thanks for watching!
I used a plastic “Double Bubble” (Kind of like bubble wrap) insulation with foil on one side and white vinyl on the other. The foil is supposed to reflect some of the radiant heat back outward to help keep the interior from getting too hot. It doesn’t really help maintain heated or cooled air. It’s more for a vapor barrier to prevent condensation on the inside of the building, and it works great for that. Thanks for watching!
No, they weren't custom ordered. I drew them myself by hand using a manual drafting kit, and they're not a complete set of plans one would need to completely replicate the design. I mainly drew them in case the county wanted something to reference before issuing a building permit. The concrete drawing was used for getting quotes for the concrete work. Thanks for watching!
I wouldn't feel right selling them because they don't contain a lot of the vital information provided in a standard set of plans. They lack any reference to the roof structure or fasteners. I drew them mainly for getting quotes for the concrete work, to remember the exact measurements needed to get the building square and position the posts, and in case the county wanted something as a reference before issuing a building permit. Thanks for watching!
Tree directly in touch with concrete, and down into the earth? I am o expert at all, but to me that seems a little bit like asking for the tree to rot, doesn't it?
Possibly. But it is a pressure treated post that is completely encased in concrete from about six inches below it, all the way up to the floor level. There is no direct contact with the dirt. The ground is hard packed red clay that tends to shed water rather than absorb it. Eventually it will probably rot, but I think it will be good until long after I’m dead and gone. Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 (English is not my native language, so bare with me) When we build something of concrete here, we tend to put something in between the wood and concrete. That is to protect the wood from humidity that somehow arise around the concrete/wood junction. It may be less needed with pressure treated, and maybe if you are in places with very dry air it isn't as susceptible. I'm just a little puzzle and I see many do this in these videos. I'm considering doing this too, but I won't take the chance as the air and ground here is VERY humid. Thanks anyway. I am asking to learn and I am far from a pro.
@@spiff1003 I'm definitely not a pro either, and it probably would have been better to put something around the post. I can't go back and fix it now, so we'll have to see how the holds up. I have put treated 4x4 posts in the ground with cement around them as well. Some have been there more than 20 years and are still solid and strong.
@@southerningenuity4458 If you live a place where it is mostly dry soil, then maybe that is not that much of an issue. I live in the worst conditions for rot, near sea with a lot of humid air, and little time to dry up except during summer, so I wouldn't dream of doing it this way. Hope it works out well for you.
I haven't had any problems with condensation. I installed a vapor barrier before installing the exterior metal sheeting. The barrier is kinda like bubble wrap material with a white vinyl covering on one side, and a reflective foil covering on the other. The foil side helps reflect radiant heat back outward and the vinyl/bubble material separates warm/moist air inside the shop from the cool metal sheeting thus preventing condensation. Thanks for watching!
You should have used anchors that are Steel in the Holes Not the timber log even though the lumber are Pressure Treated they will rot. Concrete holds moisture. If You Watch R&R Builders they never put Wood into the ground unless it is locust post. Locust will not rot in the ground. Your Building is nice but I wouldn't used wood in the Ground. Normally the post will break off about 6" under the top of the concrete. Best Wishes.
True, the posts will rot eventually. They are 3-1/2 feet deep in the ground and completely encased with concrete so there is no direct contact with the ground itself. They should last until long after I'm dead and gone. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I've seen barns and sheds built using cedar trees/posts for the main supports, but not pine trees. The pine would rot away very quickly. The cedar lasts much longer in the ground. It's outside "white" wood will rot away after several years, but the "red" wood or heart of the tree can last for decades. Thanks for watching!
As far as I know we aren't restricted from encasing the wood with the concrete. The building inspector passed everything along the way. It may be because the weather doesn't get as cold here in the south as it does in Michigan. The frost line isn't as much of a factor here.
I loved the listing on the purlin about "My Dad" and "Doesn't like spending money" ... I there with you brother!
Yeah, I don't like to spend money, especially on something I can do myself. She knows me well. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video, love your daughter's comments. Glad you have a close-knit family. You are truly rich. Great barn.
I am blessed indeed. Thanks for watching!
Probably the most beautiful rebar job I’ve ever seen! Welding the rebar together instead of just tying it together… Wow, nobody goes to that extra length. I love high-quality! Great video!
Wow! Thank you! If you like the rebar work in this video, check out the video where I make a concrete access riser for my septic tank. Got some more rebar action there too. Lol! Here is the link to that video. ruclips.net/video/DkCsVycb4qw/видео.html
@@southerningenuity4458 where r u from?
Nobody does that because it melts away any galvanization and will rust faster in your slab.
Can only do it with weldable rebar
What a blessing you have that memory all your life
Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed this so much!! Hubby and I are still dreaming!! Such a nice building and special memories made!! My favorite part was the last pic of the “greatest man you’ve ever known!” I’m not tearing up over here.. just cutting up onions! 😭
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Just keep working toward your dream together and it can become reality too. Thanks for watching!
Great job. That's really something to be proud of. Love the notes of affection on the purlin from your daughter. That's priceless.
Thanks! She wrote several other notes like that in other places around the shop as well. You can also see her notes in my video, “DIY Tool Bench”. Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 can u build one for me?...i am sick going behind looters.
Sorry, but I think my shop building days are over…..lol. Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 where r u from?... do u know anybody in minnesota?
Wow, very cool and emotional video! I am currently building a 36x48 barn with my Son on his property and he feels blessed to have me work with him!
Thanks! I hope your project turns out great! Thanks for watching!
We are building our shop right now super excited!!
Awesome! I hope it turns out great! Thanks for watching!
Well done sir, thanks for taking us on the journey
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! Really cool shots and great timeline photos. Most people are not aware of just how much work goes into a "simple" structure like a pole barn.
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching!
Bro, you can totally be proud of that shop! Well done and very impressed with the overall quality of work and attention to details. You are an inspiration to the rest of us.
Wow! Thank you!
from one of your best freinds in our youth i new you would make it some where in life from the rose petals to the looking in in the cannon. i love you brother keep it going
Thanks G.L.
Glad I could help a little. Good video. PS: He's the greatest man I've even known too!
Thanks again!
That’s a shop to be proud of . Great job .
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Man you made that look easy!! Sure filled that big place up quick!!
Thanks. Unfortunately I filled it up with a lot of junk, organization isn't my strong point. LOL! Check out this time lapse video of me cleaning it up a while back.
ruclips.net/video/W1HDuIC9TLg/видео.html
Looks good. I am doing my homework now on wanting a 40x60
Thank you! I hope it turns out great!
Just found your video on your shop build, just goes to show what hard work and determination can do, dreams do come true, I Congratulate you and your Dad and everyone who took part in building your dream shop, One of the best things is spending time with your Dad, that's the best thing about this video, THANKS for sharing, SUBSCRIBED.
Well said! Thank you!
Excellent video! Hard work pays off. You did a great job.
Thank you!
Great video and you did it without
Bothering. Talking face time
I’ll always watch your videos
Thank you!
Great job on the building, and on documenting, just had my lot cleared yesterday for my dream building.
Thank you, I hope your project turns out great. Thanks for watching!
Great job!
Thank you!
Mighty fine work!!
Thank you!
Great job! Love the tractor implements and tools you made. Great work!
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Looks like a nice shop. You can do alot when you put your mind to it. Greetings from Sweden.
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
By using the hole in your truck hitch you can bend perfect 90's with your rebar.
Interesting, I'll have to remember that. Thanks for watching!
Well done and Kudos on the video. Pleasure to watch! Looks great and all that hard work!! Fruits of your labors deserve praise!! Two thumbs up!👍👍
Wow! Thanks!
Great ingenuity. Good job!
Thank you!
Looks great! Nice job!
Thanks!
Good job. Now I have shop envy. 😊
😆 Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Good job
Thank you sir!
Thank you!
love the build!
Thanks!
Awesome! 👏👏👏
Thank you!
Dang I drilled 48 18” holes 6’ deep yesterday in 5 hours lol, but I feel your pain
Yeah, I was a little ill-prepared for those holes. No down pressure and just a cheap cutting tip (no carbide). I thought it would be a breeze and even had the inspector scheduled to be there around 1:00 pm. We only had about 3 or 4 holes dug when he arrived. Thanks for watching!
I’ll be approaching my first pole barn project with the crew down here in Kentucky. Got me excited for it! Wonderful work, and God bless you!
Thank you, and good luck with your project. May God bless you and yours too!
Great build bud. I remember you and me talking about how’d you do it. Love the channel. Subscribed!
Thanks “Tonald” lol. Great to hear from ya, and thanks for subscribing.
Me at the start of this video: "How did it take him 2 years to get the site prepared?"
2:30 into the video... "Oh."
Yeah, it took a while, but it saved a ton of money vs having someone clear it. Thanks for watching!
In addition You should have notched Your Top Plates into the post on the inside and outside post and bolted the post and Top plates from the outside to the inside plates together. You should have used joint hangers between the Trusses. the joist hangers are stronger than 3 nails on each side of the joist.
Thanks for the advise. I thought about notching the posts to support the top plate, but that would have set the top plate 1-1/2 inches farther back than the side girt plates. I would have needed to add an additional plate to the top to bring it back even with the side girts for the metal to attach to it. The posts are 10 foot on center. I used 20 foot 2x6's for the girts, alternating the seams/joints at each level for added strength and then secured them further with 2x6 diagonal braces. The inside trusses sit directly on top of the posts and are anchored with lag screws and hurricane straps. All of the purlins are installed using joist hangers.The top girt plates and eave purlins are connected together with hurricane straps. This effectively ties the side walls and eaves together. All connections in the shop are made with lag screws or decking screws, no nails were used. Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 The purpose for setting the Plates in the post is snow load. The weight is on the post instead of the Nails or leg screws. For the extra outside joint as you state can be a 2 x 4". With the outside plate being notched is strength. If you decide to add a shed to the building you already have Your support for the shed. Being on a farm you never have enough storage or I don't. The post they used in Louisiana those Post are placed in a Pressure Tank plus filled with a Chemical that is flooded into the Tank under 500 degrees at 300 psi for so many hours. The pressure and heat forces the Chemical deep into the logs. In some locations those log are driven 20 feet into the Ground. That is their Foundation for their buildings. I do a lot of building. I am not being smart or Rudd. I want YOU to enjoy your building with NO PROBLEMS. That R&R Building is very nice. Those Concrete supports he used are about $50.00 to $75.00 each. They are Hurricane PROFF. I plan to build my second Garage at my home as soon as prices come down. Concrete in my area in TN is $200.00 per yard. Last year it was $95.00 per Yard. I liked that you poured the holes for the post before you set the Post. Lowe's or Home Depot has the worst Pressure Treated wood but Lowes is Worse than Home Depot for Lumber..
I didn’t consider it rude, and I wasn’t trying to be rude either. I enjoy the feedback and you’ve definitely given me some insight to consider for any future projects. I’m always willing to take advice from those more experienced than I. Thanks again!
Nice barn gentlemen. Used the blue tractor for pretty much all of it, love it. Only thing I wonder is did you buy that scaffold for trusses? Look like it had some off-road knobbies. Great build, good job.
Thank you sir. I bought the scaffolds specifically for this project. I attached lawn mower wheels from an old "pull-behind" style mower so we could roll it around the site easier. There are other details about the project in the video description as well if you're interested. Thanks for watching!
Question : why wouldnt you have set upright stud walls between the posts or bookshelf girts , same smount of wood..? Less air gaps , tighter fit, interior as well as exterior ready for walls
I wasn't trying to construct the shop with the intention of keeping it climate controlled, so the insulation requirements weren't as critical. The girts are on the outside of the posts for several reasons. They are 20 foot 2x6s that each span 3 posts. (connecting to a post at 0, 10, and 20 ft) Then each row is offset by 1 post so that the joints don't all line up on the same post. This gives the building more strength. Also, by putting the girts on the outside, it allowed me to fully encase the posts in concrete so they would not be directly exposed to the ground, critters, and water. There is 3 inches of concrete between the post and the ground at ground surface level. This is 1-1/2 inches to make up for the thickness of the girt, plus an additional 1-1/2 inches that makes a notch for the metal to sit in to prevent water and critter intrusion. The girt placement also provided space to run the electrical wiring without having to drill holes in the posts. The studs for the OSB interior walls are connected to the first 3 rows of girts, and the OSB is flush with the posts on the inside. Wow! I got a little long winded there. Hope that answered your question. Thanks for watching!
That looks like a slant six engine. Put a starter on it it might run lol
Too late...I sold it for scrap...dirt and all. LOL!
I am preparing to build a 30x60 pole barn how high does my walls need to be for a garage door 10 high by 12 wide ?
My door is 10ft high and 12ft wide. The bottom of my trusses are 12ft above the floor, so that gives about 2 feet of clearance for the door to roll up around the "barrel"/axle. I have a little room to spare, but I would go with 12 foot walls to be sure you have the clearance. Probably a good idea to confer with the supplier to be sure to get the exact dimensions needed for the door you buy. Thanks for watching!
Great build love it. About roughly did it coast to build ?
Thanks! It was somewhere around $30k at the time. It would probably be about double or triple that amount now. Thanks for watching!
Nice job! How do you like the aluminum bubble-wrap insulation and would you do it again?
I wasn’t going to try to insulate to retain heated or cooled air, just to prevent condensation. It works great for that. It does seem to help “reflect” the radiant heat away so it doesn’t get so hot inside. So, for those purposes, yes I would do it again. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thanks for sharing. We are considering following plans and getting supplies ourselves vs buying a kit. Do you have a rough estimate of what this cost you for supplies not including the slab cost?
I wouldn't even have a clue what it might cost now with the price of everything going up. When I built mine back in 2017/2018 I think my material costs were around 20k to 22k not including the slab which was about 8k. Its a 30x50x12 building. Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 thanks for the info on numbers, awesome build
Thanks!
How long does it take from installing the post to having the garage in the dry?
I took me a couple of months working on it on my days off. It would probably take an experienced "full time" crew only a few days. Thanks for watching!
I'm planning on building a 30x50 this winter and I'm looking at steel trusses I can get locally for $360ea. I haven't had much luck finding wood trusses built for 10' span and was curious where you bought yours and what they cost you.
I got my trusses from a local supplier. They're designed for 10 foot spacing between each truss and have 2x6 joists and rafters with 2x4 interior braces. I got 6 trusses for about $960 total back in 2017. Thanks for watching!
Nice shop! How do you like the bubble insulation? What made you choose that over spray foam or fiberglass? Thanks
Thank you! The bubble insulation is doing great for my purposes. I wasn't really trying to insulate for climate control. Climate control would have been more of a hassle than it was worth for me. Instead, I mainly wanted a vapor barrier to prevent condensation inside the building. The reflective foil side of the bubble insulation does help deflect a lot of the radiant heat from the building, but the overall "R" value is pretty low. The spray foam would have been way to expensive and I just didn't want to bother with the aggravation (and "itchyness") of installing fiberglass. Thanks for watching!
>4:03>>>> "kids grow like a weed!🤣🤣
LOL! Yes they do! Thanks for watching!
Awesome job and video. Did you draw up your plans yourself? I would like to do pretty much the exact same thing.
Thank you! Yes I drew the plans myself, mainly so I would have something to show if needed when getting the building permit. I personally only needed the post layout drawing for remembering the dimensions for getting the building square. everything else was pretty straight forward construction wise. Thanks for watching!
How far apart are the 2x6 boss?
10 feet from center to center.
Hello, what is the "model" of this part that you use in roof and walls (outside)
I used 26 gauge PBR/R roofing and siding panels. The link below shows the profile and dimensions:
PBR/R Roofing and Siding Panels
lyonmetalroofing.com/products/metal-roofing-panels-and-siding-panels/#top
Enjoyed your video! Did you remove the concrete form board aound the slab before installing metal walls? Nice build.
Thank you! Yes, The form board was removed before installing the siding. The concrete extends 3 inches beyond all of the posts, and has a 1.5 inch by 1.5 inch notch on the edge for the siding to sit in. The side girts (1.5 inches thick) are attached to the outside of the posts, so the siding comes straight down and rests in the notch 1.5 inches below the floor surface. This creates a seal to prevent water and critter intrusion at the bottom of the siding, and allows the posts to be completely encased in the concrete avoiding direct exposure to the ground. If you look closely at the drawing at time frame 8:40, you can see what I'm talking about. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic job! Just a question please How much space did you leave between each post and how tall were the posts. Thank you
The posts are 10 feet apart from center to center, and they are 12 feet above the finished concrete floor. Thanks for watching!
What a truck? Zil?
1963 Ford F600 with a dump bed on it.
Beautiful work! What did you use for the insulation?
I used a plastic “Double Bubble” (Kind of like bubble wrap) insulation with foil on one side and white vinyl on the other. The foil is supposed to reflect some of the radiant heat back outward to help keep the interior from getting too hot. It doesn’t really help maintain heated or cooled air. It’s more for a vapor barrier to prevent condensation on the inside of the building, and it works great for that. Thanks for watching!
Custom ordered prints?
No, they weren't custom ordered. I drew them myself by hand using a manual drafting kit, and they're not a complete set of plans one would need to completely replicate the design. I mainly drew them in case the county wanted something to reference before issuing a building permit. The concrete drawing was used for getting quotes for the concrete work. Thanks for watching!
What would you charge for a set of those plans?
I wouldn't feel right selling them because they don't contain a lot of the vital information provided in a standard set of plans. They lack any reference to the roof structure or fasteners. I drew them mainly for getting quotes for the concrete work, to remember the exact measurements needed to get the building square and position the posts, and in case the county wanted something as a reference before issuing a building permit. Thanks for watching!
👍
Thanks for watching!
Tree directly in touch with concrete, and down into the earth? I am o expert at all, but to me that seems a little bit like asking for the tree to rot, doesn't it?
Possibly. But it is a pressure treated post that is completely encased in concrete from about six inches below it, all the way up to the floor level. There is no direct contact with the dirt. The ground is hard packed red clay that tends to shed water rather than absorb it. Eventually it will probably rot, but I think it will be good until long after I’m dead and gone. Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 (English is not my native language, so bare with me)
When we build something of concrete here, we tend to put something in between the wood and concrete. That is to protect the wood from humidity that somehow arise around the concrete/wood junction. It may be less needed with pressure treated, and maybe if you are in places with very dry air it isn't as susceptible. I'm just a little puzzle and I see many do this in these videos. I'm considering doing this too, but I won't take the chance as the air and ground here is VERY humid.
Thanks anyway. I am asking to learn and I am far from a pro.
@@spiff1003 I'm definitely not a pro either, and it probably would have been better to put something around the post. I can't go back and fix it now, so we'll have to see how the holds up. I have put treated 4x4 posts in the ground with cement around them as well. Some have been there more than 20 years and are still solid and strong.
@@southerningenuity4458 If you live a place where it is mostly dry soil, then maybe that is not that much of an issue. I live in the worst conditions for rot, near sea with a lot of humid air, and little time to dry up except during summer, so I wouldn't dream of doing it this way. Hope it works out well for you.
get some gutters on that thing.. no gutterson barns old and new is a death sentence for pole barns
Thanks, I'll look into it. Thanks for watching!
I noticed you installed large gable vents, have you had any issues with condensation on the inside of your garage?
I haven't had any problems with condensation. I installed a vapor barrier before installing the exterior metal sheeting. The barrier is kinda like bubble wrap material with a white vinyl covering on one side, and a reflective foil covering on the other. The foil side helps reflect radiant heat back outward and the vinyl/bubble material separates warm/moist air inside the shop from the cool metal sheeting thus preventing condensation. Thanks for watching!
You should have used anchors that are Steel in the Holes Not the timber log even though the lumber are Pressure Treated they will rot. Concrete holds moisture. If You Watch R&R Builders they never put Wood into the ground unless it is locust post. Locust will not rot in the ground. Your Building is nice but I wouldn't used wood in the Ground. Normally the post will break off about 6" under the top of the concrete. Best Wishes.
True, the posts will rot eventually. They are 3-1/2 feet deep in the ground and completely encased with concrete so there is no direct contact with the ground itself. They should last until long after I'm dead and gone. Thanks for watching!
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Do folks ever use pine trees for pole barns? Or would they degrade too much over time? Nice build and video
Thank you! I've seen barns and sheds built using cedar trees/posts for the main supports, but not pine trees. The pine would rot away very quickly. The cedar lasts much longer in the ground. It's outside "white" wood will rot away after several years, but the "red" wood or heart of the tree can last for decades. Thanks for watching!
hi
Hello.
Not allowed to incase the wood with concrete here in Michigan. What’s the rules for your area?
As far as I know we aren't restricted from encasing the wood with the concrete. The building inspector passed everything along the way. It may be because the weather doesn't get as cold here in the south as it does in Michigan. The frost line isn't as much of a factor here.