6 years on, your video just inspired me to not pay $1100+ to one of the 3 HVAC companies, and just do this myself. DIY and its communities are great and ever present! Thank you good friend!
This video was exactly what I needed! Clear, concise, and extremely helpful. I was able to replace my damper motor in about 15 minutes and save a couple hundred dollars at the same time. Thank you!
Excellent video. Saved me $300 and I completed the job in 20 minutes. One quick comment. Since I did not have a hole in my duct, I used the actuator alignment pin hole and a good flashlight to see if the damper was open or closed. Once I had the damper open everything lined up perfectly. Excellent video, very much appreciated. Thanks again, Chris
You just saved me 1200. The AC company my home warranty firm sent to my house to find out why my AC wasn't working on the 2nd floor wanted 600 per to replace them. You are a lifesaver!
Man i wanted to write to you personally and say THANK YOU! I had the exact same issue with the exact same part and had it not been for your video (which was very detailed!) I would have ended up paying a crooked technician about $1000 bucks for this same exact repair. You saved me $900 bucks. Thank you!
Very helpful video. I was completely prepared climbing into the attic on a very hot day. Took more time getting to the actual damper that it did replacing the motor. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the Video! I had a tech come out and install the part, after the installation the second floor was getting real warm, after watching the dampeners and monitoring airflow I realized when he installed it open was closed and closed was open. After watching your video I fixed the issue. Thanks again
Thank you sir. You are a champ! I had 2 techs who quoted me $900 and $600 to replace one of these dampers that costs $100 on Amazon. Ii took me 15 mins to replace it after watching this video. I understand people gotta make a profit but what these guys are charging is boderline unethical.
Wow! Nice video! I thought I had to replace the entire damper assembly; didn’t realize you can just replace the motor. I also wanted to thank for telling me the damper is normally in closed position. Thank you so much! 😊
Great video bud Im an hvac tech and they sending me to change one out tomorrow, I had never done it or seen it done Im glad I found you’re video bud thankyou so much .
This was a very good video. They wanted to charge me 395.00 to replace my old one. I paid 88.50 from amazon and replaced it myself. I live in Reedy fork and this is an ongoing problem. I am just glad I found this video.
Thanks for the video. I called a 2 heat and air companies, need one could figure out the problem. From the RUclips video, I was able to fix the problem myself.
Thank you! Excellent video, I replaced my damper in about 15 mins thanks to this video. An extra thanks for the direct replacement part number. BTW I was able to see the damper position when open via the damper mounting hole, no need to open the duct.
thanks for the video. I actually had my furnace stop working the other day. For a couple days it seemed something was wrong. I would put the heat on and my apartment would start to warm up but then never got to where I wanted it. So I would crank up the thermostat a bit more. Results were intermittent. So I thought I better check the furnace. The thermostat was set higher than the actual temperature but the furnace was not working. I turned the main switch off, just like a light switch, then turned it on, I heard a funny almost wheezing noise coming from this round unit attached to the flew. It appeared to be connected to the damper. I'm not an expert on any of these things but years ago I had some experiences which taught me the names of the different parts and structures. Anyway I told my landlady and said I would call the plumber who I got to know a few years ago when he was here about 5 times to fix other issues with the furnace. Sure enough it was the damper motor that wasn't working and it stopped the entire furnace from running. The temps would be going down below freezing that night so we needed to get it fixed. When the plumber came he didn't have the part so he disabled the damper motor altogether so that the furnace would run. We confirmed it would shut off when the thermostat hit the setting. There was no real danger he said, it's just the furnace would not be as efficient. Anyway just another story of how 1 small thing can prevent the entire heating structure from operating.
Thank you for this video! Replacing the same model damper motor in my house. I'll use the long needle nose pliers to keep the damper open when installing.
Thank you! I just had a tech out and told me this was the issue. So he unhooked it completely just temporarily. So I don’t have control of the downstairs zone. But it’s now freezing downstairs. They’re working up a price to replace the motor. He said “it’s not gonna be cheap” but I’m pretty handy so I’m gonna see what they say and do it myself anyway.
Thanks for the helpful video. My HVAC company wanted $300 to replace the damper motor. I got the part from SupplyHouse.com for $82.95 plus $6.95 shipping and had the part in two days. Installation was a breeze. My replacement part, M847D-ZONE did not include the hex key and set screw. I have an Allen wrench set and used the set screw from the broken unit.
Good vid. In Houston it gets hot and we have a 2 thermo system. I just got to figure out which one it is. One is easy to get to the other will be a pain for a 6ft 5in guy. But anyway I am doing this once the part comes in. GREAT VID.
This was very informative and nicely done video. Thanks Andrew. A followup question if you could answer - I have a damper control that has 3 settings, all way open, partially open and all way closed. Hoping it would be similar work to replace. If you have any more guidance to it, that would be awesome. On to find where the dampers are in this new home. :)
Great video that super helpful so thanks for making it!!! My valve was stuck shut and the AC repair guy wanted between $500-$600 to do what you did. I found the part on Amazon for $100 and will be changing it myself this weekend.
@@origtex Wow, good thing he didn't have the 3rd one in his van or I would have been out another $350. He wanted to come back but I cancelled the appt. I will do it myself.
Thanks lot , excellent video with all details explained very well !! The AC guy charge 400$ to get problem fixed, now I can buy the part to get my old M847D1004 replaced by myself.
@coolezum this actuator is for the normally open damper. That said, when the system is turned off, the damper is opened by its spring, if it doesn't, something else is wrong with the damper. So there is no need to hold with pliers
Great Job on the Video. I just had to replaced in my house at $350 each. I wish I had found this first. Question, in another video, it stated that M1 was the hot and M6 the common.
Brian, I saw the same SupplyHouse video and it's wrong. If you check any image of this actuator online, you will clearly see that M1 is common and M6 is 24 Vac (hot).
Now that was interesting. So I don’t need to use same motor, I can up grade. I replaced the Honeywell control board two years ago with the newest revision. This house was built in 2003 with a two thermostat damper system. One upstairs & one downstairs. One of the dampers for downstairs is always open. This system has been driving us nuts. We also have a make up air duct work. Not good for Houston in the summer. It also has a by pass recirculating duct with a weighted arm so it will self balance. So as I understand how it works. Funny thing, not one AC tech said they could find the controller, Honeywell doesn’t make it any more. My wife the sleuth found it in an hr. in Minneapolis Minnesota. Had to go around world calling service centers that said the same thing. My wife some how got a hold of a service manager in Minneapolis. We had it shipped to Grainger under our company name & got it in 3 days. We work out of our house so that helped a bit for taxes. Just so happens when I was a locksmith in Minneapolis Honeywell was one of my accounts and the service manager remembered me. I was making desk & file cabinet keys for his department. We talked for a bit. When we go up to Minnesota we’ll go out for a beer. Thanks
Very illustrative and well filmed video. Basically, I checked all the comments posted here and I would like to add some points that I found useful when replacing the motor on ARD damper. As the damper is a power open-spring close system, once the old motor wiring is disconnected, the damper blade must immediately go to the open position. Check that the set screw is pointing to the open position on the label, ensuring that the damper blade is in the open position. Therefore, when installing the new motor, the damper will already be in an open position. The only thing left is to connect the wires. Regarding wiring all you need is to connect two wires : Common (M1) and 24Vac. M1 on the damper to M1 (common) on the control panel and M6 on the damper to the M6 (NO - Normally Open) on the control. The instruction manual is simple, but explains how to replace and check the operation of the engine later. The package no longer includes the Allen key (Hex).
I was able to install this in under 15 mins. Thanks to your clear instructions! I have a concern, mine does not go all the way down to zero and stops at 3 but the closed light turns on. Why would that be? In your video, I see the indicator goes all the way down till zero and then the light turns full red as closed.
Great Video. One question. Is Damper supposed to close when Furnace turns on? Common sense is telling me it should be open to force air upstairs when the furnace is on but then again I'm not HVAC certified.
My house which I bought a year ago has 3 damper motors and the one that controls the airflow to the master bedroom must be wide open and makes that room and bathroom extremely hot. I am not able to see the brand and model number on the malfunctioning damper motor but the other two seem to be the Honeywell M847D-1004 type. Is it safe to assume that the bad motor can be replaced by the Honeywell M847D-Zone or M847D-1004 one? When the heater starts I see the back side of the bad motor spinning. Does this indicate that the springs inside the motor are bad and unable to open/close the damper? Any suggestions?
If your duct is completely closed off (no slot to put your hand thru), how can you determine valve location? Open? Closed? It seems that this is an important step when assembling the actuator to the valve shaft. Any tips other than cutting a slot in the duct piping would be appreciated. Thanks! Great video BTW.
Hi Tommy. Some actuators have a small lever either at the top (between the motor & the actuator), or on the opposite side of the actuator that you can move around manually. Check that out and let me know if anything is accessible without having to cut a slit in the duct!
Great video! So how’d you determine before you purchased the damper that your spring was good? Is a spring able to close a damper when motor is bad? Do you know a part number for the spring? Is it as easy to install? Can a sprung damper be controlled with a power-close and powered-open motor? Anybody??
Checkthisjunkout if your problem is the damper is closed (not blowing cool air or very mild) when the cool is on, the zone light on the zone board is green (it turns red when the zone board gives a closed signal), in this case, yr zone board is fine and is sending power to the motor and telling it to open the damper, but it the motor is not working or the damper is stuck. You can manually turn the damper open by turning the bolt, you can find it hidden in the back. now you can survive the time before you replace it.
finixtree Yu thanks. Yeah I have a damper stuck open. I wonder if the spring is still any good, since I haven’t been able to observe it opening the damper since motor doesn’t close it. The other damper has an issue not being able to close completely and shut off flow while the air handler is running. (If it closes before the AHU gets going, it can do it.)
My actuator has no light on it?I have a blue and red wire.Red was connected to M6 and Blue to the M1.Anything wrong with the actuator or something need to replaced?
Is Damper supposed to close when Furnace turns on? Common sense is telling me it should be open to force air upstairs when the furnace is on but then again I'm not HVAC certified.
Ce Vaz I did not have to cut the power to my AC unit because the wires that run from the AC unit to the damper are low voltage (24V I think?) and not enough to shock you. *** I am not a licensed electrician, so I recommend doing more research on the voltage of your particular unit/wires/motor.***
Hi great video! Question for you, what is the red tab for on the top of the damper actuator? Do I have to manipulate that in any way? The one I bought is set to “0”. Thanks.
Hey Daniel, thanks for the feedback. As long as you tighten the bolt correctly when you install, "0" means the damper is completely closed, where "1", "2", & "3" are different settings you can use to stop the damper from closing all the way. Some people may choose to set their damper at "1" or "2" where others will just set it to "0" and have it completely closed when the thermostat is not calling for air. For example: I live in Texas and it gets really hot in the summer. When it starts to get hot, I may change the dampers to be partially open at "1", so all the rooms get juuust a little bit of AC, even when the room isn't calling for air. The reason I would do this is so that each thermostat/damper doesn't have to work as hard from opening and closing every time the room/zone needs AC. If I have all the dampers (I have 5 zones) completely shut all the time in the summer, the AC unit & dampers will do more work because each zone may call for air at different times, thus the AC unit is running more often than it may need to. In the winter time here (especially with 2 small kids), I want the dampers to shut completely when the thermostat isn't calling for air because if I don't monitor, too much heat isn't good for the little ones. I hope that helps!
Awesome! Thanks for that great info and the quick reply! I will be installing this actuator tomorrow. Thanks for your help! I also live in Texas so I might try out your technique :)
Great video , I want a know if there's a training videos as how to troubleshoot zone control of Hvac system ,your reply will be greatly appreciated thanks
I don't have the ability to open the duct work to verify that the flap is open as I install the damper motor. Can you see when the damper is open through the alignment pin hole? In theory, if it's open, you should be able to see the flap through the hole.
Thanks for the very informative video sir. Anyway, correct me if im wrong, just some clarification, so this actuator is power close/spring open, right? Purpose of the motor is to close the damper, purpose of the spring is to open the damper. Where is the spring located, is it also in this actuator or in the damper? TIA
Hey Andrew, or whoever’s reading and knows, does this motor have the return spring integrated into it? Or is that a separate part that has to be put on the shaft somewhere?
6 years on, your video just inspired me to not pay $1100+ to one of the 3 HVAC companies, and just do this myself. DIY and its communities are great and ever present! Thank you good friend!
This video was exactly what I needed! Clear, concise, and extremely helpful. I was able to replace my damper motor in about 15 minutes and save a couple hundred dollars at the same time. Thank you!
Excellent video. Saved me $300 and I completed the job in 20 minutes. One quick comment. Since I did not have a hole in my duct, I used the actuator alignment pin hole and a good flashlight to see if the damper was open or closed. Once I had the damper open everything lined up perfectly. Excellent video, very much appreciated. Thanks again, Chris
You just saved me 1200. The AC company my home warranty firm sent to my house to find out why my AC wasn't working on the 2nd floor wanted 600 per to replace them. You are a lifesaver!
Same! Charge $700 for a $100 part, ridiculous
Thanks for the great video. I also appreciate you taking the time to specify the part numbers involved, etc.
Man i wanted to write to you personally and say THANK YOU! I had the exact same issue with the exact same part and had it not been for your video (which was very detailed!) I would have ended up paying a crooked technician about $1000 bucks for this same exact repair. You saved me $900 bucks. Thank you!
One of my damper motor is not working now - they asked for 900$ the motor is only cost for 80$ -
@@hanamichizakuragi5021 Jesus what a snake! I learned to do everything myself....thanks god their is youtube and people like
@@hanamichizakuragi5021 Like everything, the prices went up and now they are over $100 but still cheaper to DYI
I was wondering how much they were going to charge. I think mine is out rn. Half my bedroom is cooling while the other half isn’t blowing cold air 😢
Fantastic video! You are to-the-point, clear, and well-spoken. Well done!
Great info! Been struggling with my damper lately. Thanks for the model number for the replacement. Super simple swap.
Very helpful video. I was completely prepared climbing into the attic on a very hot day. Took more time getting to the actual damper that it did replacing the motor. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the Video! I had a tech come out and install the part, after the installation the second floor was getting real warm, after watching the dampeners and monitoring airflow I realized when he installed it open was closed and closed was open. After watching your video I fixed the issue. Thanks again
This is the most clearly explained video on the topic, thanks!
Thank you sir. You are a champ! I had 2 techs who quoted me $900 and $600 to replace one of these dampers that costs $100 on Amazon. Ii took me 15 mins to replace it after watching this video. I understand people gotta make a profit but what these guys are charging is boderline unethical.
Wow! Nice video! I thought I had to replace the entire damper assembly; didn’t realize you can just replace the motor. I also wanted to thank for telling me the damper is normally in closed position. Thank you so much! 😊
Great video bud Im an hvac tech and they sending me to change one out tomorrow, I had never done it or seen it done Im glad I found you’re video bud thankyou so much .
THANK YOU VERY MUCH you probably saved me a $200 service call! Easy to do and he's right the video took longer than the repair!
I had the same exact model and got the same replacement. This tutorial was a great help.
This was a very good video. They wanted to charge me 395.00 to replace my old one. I paid 88.50 from amazon and replaced it myself. I live in Reedy fork and this is an ongoing problem. I am just glad I found this video.
Excellent video. Simple to do and I also saved myself a bunch of money. Thanks very much!!!
Many thanks for this excellent video! Also saved me $400 for a 10 minute install on an $80 part. Much appreciated!
Juan Martinez That’s exactly why I make these videos! For some fixes, you don’t need to be an electrician/plumber/etc to get the job done.
WOW.... same exact one that I’m having trouble with. I’ll be attempting this fix this week. Thank you.
Just replaced the exact damper motor, great video, thank you!
Excellent video, you probably saved me $300-$500. Keep it up.
Thanks for the video. Knocked it out in no time. Now we can sleep in peace...heck live in comfort again. THANKS!!!
Thanks for the video. I called a 2 heat and air companies, need one could figure out the problem. From the RUclips video, I was able to fix the problem myself.
Glad to hear! That’s exactly why I started this channel.
Andrew, thank you this was very helpful.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful and instructive.
Thank you. Followed your video and everything worked perfectly.
Thank you for this video! It is incredibly helpful.
This was awesome! Thanks so much. Exactly the information I needed.
Awsome video man! Changing the same one you did on mine! Thanks! It helped alot!
Thanks Andy! HVAC wanted $433.00, i did for 76.00, I appreciate your help!!
Nice! That’s exactly why this video is up!
Much appreciated! Problem solved. Very helpful
Thank you! Excellent video, I replaced my damper in about 15 mins thanks to this video. An extra thanks for the direct replacement part number. BTW I was able to see the damper position when open via the damper mounting hole, no need to open the duct.
I would like to change mine but I am not sure about the wires … what color should I connect with ? Need help
always take pictures before removing anything also you can label wires @@milviacruz3612
Thanks. This saved me alot of money. Fast and easy.
Thank you. You video solved a puzzle I had!
Thanks Andrew. Great video
thanks for the video. I actually had my furnace stop working the other day. For a couple days it seemed something was wrong. I would put the heat on and my apartment would start to warm up but then never got to where I wanted it. So I would crank up the thermostat a bit more. Results were intermittent. So I thought I better check the furnace. The thermostat was set higher than the actual temperature but the furnace was not working. I turned the main switch off, just like a light switch, then turned it on, I heard a funny almost wheezing noise coming from this round unit attached to the flew. It appeared to be connected to the damper. I'm not an expert on any of these things but years ago I had some experiences which taught me the names of the different parts and structures.
Anyway I told my landlady and said I would call the plumber who I got to know a few years ago when he was here about 5 times to fix other issues with the furnace. Sure enough it was the damper motor that wasn't working and it stopped the entire furnace from running. The temps would be going down below freezing that night so we needed to get it fixed.
When the plumber came he didn't have the part so he disabled the damper motor altogether so that the furnace would run. We confirmed it would shut off when the thermostat hit the setting. There was no real danger he said, it's just the furnace would not be as efficient. Anyway just another story of how 1 small thing can prevent the entire heating structure from operating.
Thank you. This video saved me some money today!
Thank you for this video! Replacing the same model damper motor in my house. I'll use the long needle nose pliers to keep the damper open when installing.
But how would this method work? I tried doing it, but when I let the needle nose pliers go to push the motor all the way down, the damper swings shut.
@@Yuuiiytrfbh I ended up using a locking forceps pliers. It was thin enough for me to push down the motor.
Thank you! I just had a tech out and told me this was the issue. So he unhooked it completely just temporarily. So I don’t have control of the downstairs zone. But it’s now freezing downstairs. They’re working up a price to replace the motor. He said “it’s not gonna be cheap” but I’m pretty handy so I’m gonna see what they say and do it myself anyway.
Nice! I have a 2 zone Honeywell system and the motor for the FROG is either bad or the spring was rusty. This video helped a ton
Thanks for the helpful video. My HVAC company wanted $300 to replace the damper motor. I got the part from SupplyHouse.com for $82.95 plus $6.95 shipping and had the part in two days. Installation was a breeze. My replacement part, M847D-ZONE did not include the hex key and set screw. I have an Allen wrench set and used the set screw from the broken unit.
Mark Doernhoefer Awesome!!
i did the same like you and it save $300 for me thank you this video from Andrew
Thank you for the help. Saved me $900.
Great video, super helpful. Excellent footage and clear articulation of the problem and solution. Very easy to follow - thx much!
Thanks for posting. Very useful info.
Very informative and well explained. Thank you.
Good vid. In Houston it gets hot and we have a 2 thermo system. I just got to figure out which one it is. One is easy to get to the other will be a pain for a 6ft 5in guy. But anyway I am doing this once the part comes in. GREAT VID.
Helpful and easy! Thanks!
This was very informative and nicely done video. Thanks Andrew. A followup question if you could answer - I have a damper control that has 3 settings, all way open, partially open and all way closed. Hoping it would be similar work to replace. If you have any more guidance to it, that would be awesome. On to find where the dampers are in this new home. :)
Awesome!!!! Very helpful . Thank you for saving me some money. I get to add more money to my daughters college fund now. :-)
Great video that super helpful so thanks for making it!!! My valve was stuck shut and the AC repair guy wanted between $500-$600 to do what you did. I found the part on Amazon for $100 and will be changing it myself this weekend.
Same here.
Very informative. Answered a lot of questions
thanks a lot for the video bro. this will be an easy fix
Great help.... thanks a lot!!
huge help and perfect video tahnk you!!!
Great video. Local AC company wanted $587 to change out two motors. Thumbs up and I subscribed
I just paid $700 for 2 plus $100 for the diagnostic
@@TheSumodog12 Hate to hear that. Each motor is about $80 and 10 minutes of labor.
@@origtex Wow, good thing he didn't have the 3rd one in his van or I would have been out another $350. He wanted to come back but I cancelled the appt. I will do it myself.
Thank you. This was very helpful
Thanks Nina!
thank you so much for this video ANDREW ROGERS it save money for me
Excellent, you are good..... it was helpful...
Thank you friend.....you have earned subscribed and thump-up! Update on price as of 12-2-22 on Amazon $115
Thanks lot , excellent video with all details explained very well !! The AC guy charge 400$ to get problem fixed, now I can buy the part to get my old M847D1004 replaced by myself.
mike ou I’m glad it helped out!
Great video!! thanks!
Thanks for the helpful video. Well explained.
Glad it helped!
Excellent Video.
Great play by play!!
Thank you Sir!!
Little advise, turn system off and long needle nose pliers to hold shaft open and seal that duct, should never be able to put hand in damper.
@coolezum this actuator is for the normally open damper. That said, when the system is turned off, the damper is opened by its spring, if it doesn't, something else is wrong with the damper. So there is no need to hold with pliers
Thanks for the video, it's exactly what I needed to know.
Great Job on the Video. I just had to replaced in my house at $350 each. I wish I had found this first. Question, in another video, it stated that M1 was the hot and M6 the common.
Brian, I saw the same SupplyHouse video and it's wrong. If you check any image of this actuator online, you will clearly see that M1 is common and M6 is 24 Vac (hot).
Gracias Excellent tip
Now that was interesting. So I don’t need to use same motor, I can up grade. I replaced the Honeywell control board two years ago with the newest revision. This house was built in 2003 with a two thermostat damper system. One upstairs & one downstairs. One of the dampers for downstairs is always open. This system has been driving us nuts. We also have a make up air duct work. Not good for Houston in the summer. It also has a by pass recirculating duct with a weighted arm so it will self balance. So as I understand how it works. Funny thing, not one AC tech said they could find the controller, Honeywell doesn’t make it any more. My wife the sleuth found it in an hr. in Minneapolis Minnesota. Had to go around world calling service centers that said the same thing. My wife some how got a hold of a service manager in Minneapolis. We had it shipped to Grainger under our company name & got it in 3 days. We work out of our house so that helped a bit for taxes. Just so happens when I was a locksmith in Minneapolis Honeywell was one of my accounts and the service manager remembered me. I was making desk & file cabinet keys for his department. We talked for a bit. When we go up to Minnesota we’ll go out for a beer. Thanks
Great video, thanks
Very illustrative and well filmed video. Basically, I checked all the comments posted here and I would like to add some points that I found useful when replacing the motor on ARD damper.
As the damper is a power open-spring close system, once the old motor wiring is disconnected, the damper blade must immediately go to the open position. Check that the set screw is pointing to the open position on the label, ensuring that the damper blade is in the open position. Therefore, when installing the new motor, the damper will already be in an open position. The only thing left is to connect the wires.
Regarding wiring all you need is to connect two wires : Common (M1) and 24Vac. M1 on the damper to M1 (common) on the control panel and M6 on the damper to the M6 (NO - Normally Open) on the control.
The instruction manual is simple, but explains how to replace and check the operation of the engine later. The package no longer includes the Allen key (Hex).
I was able to install this in under 15 mins. Thanks to your clear instructions! I have a concern, mine does not go all the way down to zero and stops at 3 but the closed light turns on. Why would that be? In your video, I see the indicator goes all the way down till zero and then the light turns full red as closed.
Excellent!
Hello, how can you set a MD at 10 % to grant minimal air supply, keeping the 0% and 100% option ? Thank you , Mike
You da man!!! Thanks!!!
Perfect Video ++
Great Video. One question. Is Damper supposed to close when Furnace turns on? Common sense is telling me it should be open to force air upstairs when the furnace is on but then again I'm not HVAC certified.
So if you can’t reach your hand into the damper, how would you make sure that it is fully open when you install the new motor?
My house which I bought a year ago has 3 damper motors and the one that controls the airflow to the master bedroom must be wide open and makes that room and bathroom extremely hot. I am not able to see the brand and model number on the malfunctioning damper motor but the other two seem to be the Honeywell M847D-1004 type. Is it safe to assume that the bad motor can be replaced by the Honeywell M847D-Zone or M847D-1004 one? When the heater starts I see the back side of the bad motor spinning. Does this indicate that the springs inside the motor are bad and unable to open/close the damper? Any suggestions?
24v doesn’t hurt but make sure the furnace is unplugged to prevent a short to the board.
If your duct is completely closed off (no slot to put your hand thru), how can you determine valve location? Open? Closed? It seems that this is an important step when assembling the actuator to the valve shaft. Any tips other than cutting a slot in the duct piping would be appreciated. Thanks! Great video BTW.
Hi Tommy. Some actuators have a small lever either at the top (between the motor & the actuator), or on the opposite side of the actuator that you can move around manually. Check that out and let me know if anything is accessible without having to cut a slit in the duct!
Great video! So how’d you determine before you purchased the damper that your spring was good? Is a spring able to close a damper when motor is bad? Do you know a part number for the spring? Is it as easy to install? Can a sprung damper be controlled with a power-close and powered-open motor?
Anybody??
Checkthisjunkout if your problem is the damper is closed (not blowing cool air or very mild) when the cool is on, the zone light on the zone board is green (it turns red when the zone board gives a closed signal), in this case, yr zone board is fine and is sending power to the motor and telling it to open the damper, but it the motor is not working or the damper is stuck. You can manually turn the damper open by turning the bolt, you can find it hidden in the back. now you can survive the time before you replace it.
finixtree Yu thanks. Yeah I have a damper stuck open. I wonder if the spring is still any good, since I haven’t been able to observe it opening the damper since motor doesn’t close it. The other damper has an issue not being able to close completely and shut off flow while the air handler is running. (If it closes before the AHU gets going, it can do it.)
What size hex key/Allen key does it need? I tried a bunch I had but nothing seemed to fit.
Thk uuu.
What does the red switch on the side do? Should it be set to 0 or 3?
My actuator has no light on it?I have a blue and red wire.Red was connected to M6 and Blue to the M1.Anything wrong with the actuator or something need to replaced?
Does this replace those pos24v synchron motor?
great videe im a hvac cobtractor in Texas , i tried to do this but couldnt find just the motor been replacing the whole damper
Is Damper supposed to close when Furnace turns on? Common sense is telling me it should be open to force air upstairs when the furnace is on but then again I'm not HVAC certified.
Thank you for the information.
Question. Do I need to cut the power for the a/c unit ?
Ce Vaz I did not have to cut the power to my AC unit because the wires that run from the AC unit to the damper are low voltage (24V I think?) and not enough to shock you.
*** I am not a licensed electrician, so I recommend doing more research on the voltage of your particular unit/wires/motor.***
Thank you for the reply.
Hi great video! Question for you, what is the red tab for on the top of the damper actuator? Do I have to manipulate that in any way? The one I bought is set to “0”. Thanks.
Hey Daniel, thanks for the feedback. As long as you tighten the bolt correctly when you install, "0" means the damper is completely closed, where "1", "2", & "3" are different settings you can use to stop the damper from closing all the way. Some people may choose to set their damper at "1" or "2" where others will just set it to "0" and have it completely closed when the thermostat is not calling for air.
For example: I live in Texas and it gets really hot in the summer. When it starts to get hot, I may change the dampers to be partially open at "1", so all the rooms get juuust a little bit of AC, even when the room isn't calling for air. The reason I would do this is so that each thermostat/damper doesn't have to work as hard from opening and closing every time the room/zone needs AC. If I have all the dampers (I have 5 zones) completely shut all the time in the summer, the AC unit & dampers will do more work because each zone may call for air at different times, thus the AC unit is running more often than it may need to. In the winter time here (especially with 2 small kids), I want the dampers to shut completely when the thermostat isn't calling for air because if I don't monitor, too much heat isn't good for the little ones.
I hope that helps!
Awesome! Thanks for that great info and the quick reply! I will be installing this actuator tomorrow. Thanks for your help! I also live in Texas so I might try out your technique :)
Great video , I want a know if there's a training videos as how to troubleshoot zone control of Hvac system ,your reply will be greatly appreciated thanks
Pete Singh, I’m honestly not sure if there is or not.
Thanks Andrew , for the reply
I don't have the ability to open the duct work to verify that the flap is open as I install the damper motor. Can you see when the damper is open through the alignment pin hole? In theory, if it's open, you should be able to see the flap through the hole.
What’s the red lever for ?
Great description and vid but how can you tell if your existing Honeywell is an open or closed model?
you'd just have to find the model number on the damper motor and google
Thanks for the very informative video sir. Anyway, correct me if im wrong, just some clarification, so this actuator is power close/spring open, right? Purpose of the motor is to close the damper, purpose of the spring is to open the damper. Where is the spring located, is it also in this actuator or in the damper? TIA
Nomer, it is in the actuator. If you still have the old M847D1004 you can see the spring after taking its lid off.
Hermenegildo Luis Gasparotto thank you sir!!!
Hey Andrew, or whoever’s reading and knows, does this motor have the return spring integrated into it? Or is that a separate part that has to be put on the shaft somewhere?
This unit is the replacement for the old one he replaced. It will spring back when other zone asks for air.
where did you buy dampers ?
So I have the same damper in our house all of the other dampers are cold but 1 of them is very hot what does that mean?