I appreciate the tip on testing while at the damper by swapping the open/close wires. That is handy if (when) you're working alone. I think it's also very useful for test/debug when you're approaching a zone problem and don't have it narrowed down yet.
Hey Stephen I learned something new about zoned system equipment. I don't think I'd like that up north in my house with a heat pump, keeping auxiliary heat use to a minimum is tuff up here with defrost cycles and building load nose diving beyond way beyond the BTU output the of the heat pump HSPE's are way better nowadays but still not enough contrary to what most people think lol lol... We ran our heat pump system up north as stable as possible till the heat pump would lock itself out completely and backup was electric for the duration of extreme cold man that's a meter spinner up Whoo hoo... Man you guys in the south are lucky!
So that zone board it's a constant power open or close? If so, then the actuator once is open or close it internally disconnect it's own power ? But the green or red light stays on to let you know the status ?
Fantastic video! Thank you for taking the time to do it and also thank you for adding the extra bit of info. You should see if Comfort Solutions can set you up with a small kickback for referrals to help cover the cost of making videos. :)
So, there is no calibrations required? What about matching parts? Do certain dampers only work with certain systems or will any damper work as long as the size matches?
See I like tour videos... You explain things so I can understand... I can't do that... I feel like I'm babbling... Nice one man!!! I like that damper setup.
Billy Knoth TOUR videos?! wtf are you talking about? I guess you could say that this was a tour of the job....LOL i don't know why but i'm enjoying being a spelling nazi recently.
Great video! I think my first floor zone1 damper motor is dead (stuck opened). Can I confirm by swamping the Red and Black on the damper? I guess if it doesn’t close it would mean my damper is bad? Thanks for the video. Oh one more thing, why do you have to connect the white common wire to the new damper? Can connect the white common wire to zone2 damper?
im still trying to get the hang of wiring. The other day I was staring at an old RTU, I forget what make it was but it had some where around eight contactors that controlled the different components in the unit. The wiring was a freaking mess.
You were lucky on that one. Most of the damper change outs I get the installer most have thought there was a massive air leak at the damper and slapped a shit ton of mastic on the joint. Makes an easy change out a nightmare.
I think my honeywell M847d1004 automatic damper is bad i noticed today upstairs was not cooling right. I checked the dampers and one was stuck closed. I moved it open and closed and it seems to be working a bit. But I noticed that it wont close fully now when the other dampers are open and that one should be closed. I hope that made sense. Then it clicked for a little bit but stopped. Anyways, can I just replace the motor/actuator instead of the whole assembly like you did?
Yes! You ought to be able to replace the actuator. Guessing you probably could find a new actuator online by searching for the number and Damper Actuator
I can’t think of a situation where the damper might determine whether the blower would run or not. That’s an odd one. If you’d like you could send me an email with pictures of the situation and I may be able to help StephenRardon@RardonHomePerformance.com
I have a damper that doesnt have the red light on it lighted up. I traced that wire back to the board to zone two. The red power light on zone 2 isnt on. Would that be tue board or the damper at fault?
Yeah, I assume your talking about wrapping the collar and damper with fiberglass? With the humidity here that would never do any good, need vapor/moisture barrier.
I copied and pasted but it still didn't work. The damper did however start working again, I moved the arm behind the actuator up and it came back down so I assumed the spring wasn't broke and then it started working. That leads me to believe there could possibly be a stripped gear and it caught just enough to start working again. Does this sound like it could be a possibility, Thank you again for replying.
Looks like the ZD is their square damper forwardthinking.resideo.com/products/zoning/detail/zd_damper.html www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwitiIPvstLuAhVxCn0KHbnrAuwYABAGGgJwdg&ae=2&sig=AOD64_1nwUhy37MC_qx18z6TkEbwkOVjEg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjp4PvustLuAhWPQc0KHR_FDz0Qwg96BAgCEBU&dct=1&adurl= this could be what you need to replace only the motor
Hi Stephen , I got a damper motor that keeps buzzing when power is disconnected , it has 3 wires and I know the motor is no good the damper stays closed
Great video, only rule of thumb is to always wire and test first before sealing up. Just in case there Is a faulty replacement part. It happens
Just curious why did he change the whole assembly? Aren't those motors replaceable?
I appreciate the tip on testing while at the damper by swapping the open/close wires. That is handy if (when) you're working alone. I think it's also very useful for test/debug when you're approaching a zone problem and don't have it narrowed down yet.
This is great how to video and much appreciated for taking the time to post this. How do i know which size of the damper from the ac? Thanks again.
Hey Stephen I learned something new about zoned system equipment.
I don't think I'd like that up north in my house with a heat pump, keeping auxiliary heat use to a minimum is tuff up here with defrost cycles and building load nose diving beyond way beyond the BTU output the of the heat pump HSPE's are way better nowadays but still not enough contrary to what most people think lol lol... We ran our heat pump system up north as stable as possible till the heat pump would lock itself out completely and backup was electric for the duration of extreme cold man that's a meter spinner up Whoo hoo... Man you guys in the south are lucky!
HSPF LOL LOL not E
Great job Stephen and explaining.
justin henning Thanks Justin, Congrats on winning that tool from T&N Services LLC.
Stephen Rardon thank u man
So that zone board it's a constant power open or close? If so, then the actuator once is open or close it internally disconnect it's own power ? But the green or red light stays on to let you know the status ?
Fantastic video! Thank you for taking the time to do it and also thank you for adding the extra bit of info. You should see if Comfort Solutions can set you up with a small kickback for referrals to help cover the cost of making videos. :)
+Janson McCreery that would be nice! They wouldn’t come off a advertisement budget
So, there is no calibrations required?
What about matching parts? Do certain dampers only work with certain systems or will any damper work as long as the size matches?
Cool damper good job Stephen.
codymon100 thanks for watching Cody, i really like that zoning equipment.
See I like tour videos... You explain things so I can understand... I can't do that... I feel like I'm babbling... Nice one man!!! I like that damper setup.
Billy Knoth TOUR videos?! wtf are you talking about? I guess you could say that this was a tour of the job....LOL i don't know why but i'm enjoying being a spelling nazi recently.
I ment your.....not tour...
See how easy it was, to push the correct letters when spelling properly? Lmao 😂😂
Nice Job Stephen Rardon
Thank you sir Rob HVAC
Great video! I think my first floor zone1 damper motor is dead (stuck opened). Can I confirm by swamping the Red and Black on the damper? I guess if it doesn’t close it would mean my damper is bad?
Thanks for the video. Oh one more thing, why do you have to connect the white common wire to the new damper? Can connect the white common wire to zone2 damper?
im still trying to get the hang of wiring. The other day I was staring at an old RTU, I forget what make it was but it had some where around eight contactors that controlled the different components in the unit.
The wiring was a freaking mess.
You were lucky on that one. Most of the damper change outs I get the installer most have thought there was a massive air leak at the damper and slapped a shit ton of mastic on the joint. Makes an easy change out a nightmare.
I was a little
Worried about what I would uncover. Turned out nice though.
Excellent instructions. Thank you!
You’re welcome
Thank you for sharing
well done buddy. I liked how you explained everything. Also I am very Happy you were not working in the crawl space lol
Emin HVAC i had fun making that one, did you notice the different camera views? that took a little bit of editing to make the views work.
Actually I did. You're definitely a lot better with the camera then most people are.
Thank you. Excellent video and instruction.
great video Stephen
Harry Dickson Thanks checking it out Harry
After replacement of a loan dampener should you calibrate or adjust?
Great vid. I'm about to try this myself. Thanks!
great video
Thanks for watching!
I would have just replaced that thermostat wire with a new wire. Possibly even used ethernet cable.
THANKS!!!!!
incredible detail. Thank you for sharing. You just saved me thousands of $$,
+David C hope it all works out for you
It is not thousands to replace a damper. It is thousands to install a new zone control system.
@@NETWizzJbirk money weight is relatively personal. A$100 may feel like $1000 depending on where and how you make yours.
Thanks mann
I think my honeywell M847d1004 automatic damper is bad i noticed today upstairs was not cooling right. I checked the dampers and one was stuck closed. I moved it open and closed and it seems to be working a bit. But I noticed that it wont close fully now when the other dampers are open and that one should be closed. I hope that made sense. Then it clicked for a little bit but stopped. Anyways, can I just replace the motor/actuator instead of the whole assembly like you did?
Yes! You ought to be able to replace the actuator. Guessing you probably could find a new actuator online by searching for the number and Damper Actuator
In fact the actuator only is much easier to deal with!
@@StephenRardon Sweet, thx for the reply and help. Gonna look for the part tomorrow. And will be subbing ya 😉
Can a faulty damper prevent the blower in the furnace from turning on with the AC?
I can’t think of a situation where the damper might determine whether the blower would run or not. That’s an odd one. If you’d like you could send me an email with pictures of the situation and I may be able to help StephenRardon@RardonHomePerformance.com
Nice job....
I have a damper that doesnt have the red light on it lighted up. I traced that wire back to the board to zone two. The red power light on zone 2 isnt on. Would that be tue board or the damper at fault?
Hard to say for sure, they don’t all have lights. Sorry I can’t be of more help
Great video
I guess rules about insulation is different in other states from here in CA.
Yeah, I assume your talking about wrapping the collar and damper with fiberglass?
With the humidity here that would never do any good, need vapor/moisture barrier.
What brand of zoning system do you prefer, install, change existing equipment with...?
I prefer the Ecojay zoning in general. I am considering the Jackson Systems zoning as an option though.
great video! thank you!
brennanac1 thanks for watching, i had fun working on that one.
how much does a job like this cost, parts + labor?
Is it possible to over ride this piece and open the damper as a temporary fix till I can get a tech out here?
very possibly, send me an email stephenrardon@gmail.com
It keeps saying the email is invalid and won't let me send
Stephenrardon@gmail.com
Check spelling carefully
Or shoot me a text 919-346-3532
I copied and pasted but it still didn't work. The damper did however start working again, I moved the arm behind the actuator up and it came back down so I assumed the spring wasn't broke and then it started working. That leads me to believe there could possibly be a stripped gear and it caught just enough to start working again. Does this sound like it could be a possibility, Thank you again for replying.
What is the Difference between ARD AND A ZD HONEYWELL SYSTEM.
I have to replace a damper the Motor
That’s a good question, I know ARD standard for automatic round damper but I’m not sure on ZD
Thank you for your response
Looks like the ZD is their square damper
forwardthinking.resideo.com/products/zoning/detail/zd_damper.html
www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwitiIPvstLuAhVxCn0KHbnrAuwYABAGGgJwdg&ae=2&sig=AOD64_1nwUhy37MC_qx18z6TkEbwkOVjEg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjp4PvustLuAhWPQc0KHR_FDz0Qwg96BAgCEBU&dct=1&adurl= this could be what you need to replace only the motor
Thank you for your kindness and information have a great day and be safe.👍
what manufacturer builds the power open/close damper you used?
Formerly known as XCi they are called EcoJay now. www.comfortsolutionsinc.com
Huh, cool.
how do i know which damper motor will work with what i have now?
+Ashley Hook depends, the zone board usually matches the brand of damper
Ok thanks will look a board
Hi Stephen , I got a damper motor that keeps buzzing when power is disconnected , it has 3 wires and I know the motor is no good the damper stays closed
I have one that’s doing the exact same thing
its easier amd faster just to remplace the motor , takes 2 minuts
Absolutely!
+1 Thumbs up from me m8! Thx a lot!!!!
+Z. Voorhees thanks for watching
no mask bro u breathed. all tha insulation man
I'll die from something else that worse, can't stand a mask.
Instead of all the trouble of removing the entire damper, how about a damper manufacture you just replace the board and motor?
Depends on the situation mostly, we've don't just that several times when we can get the motor easily or quickly